Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:49 AM - Gauge error? High oil temps, continued. (Fox5flyer)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Alberta my love (Gill Levesque)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: Rad Scoop Gary. (Gary Algate)
4. 06:29 AM - glide ratio (Maurice Fraser)
5. 06:47 AM - Re: Module vs coils (Lowell Fitt)
6. 07:23 AM - Re: Module vs coils (Lyle Persels)
7. 09:30 AM - Re: Rad Scoop Gary. (Harris, Robert)
8. 12:33 PM - Flapperon install. (Joseph Brett Walmsley)
9. 02:09 PM - [Off-topic] Letter from Norway 1945 (Michel Verheughe)
10. 03:15 PM - Mass Balance weight install (Brett Walmsley)
11. 03:42 PM - Re: Mass Balance weight install (Howard Firm)
12. 03:49 PM - Re: Gauge error? High oil temps, continued. (kurt schrader)
13. 04:01 PM - Re: Mass Balance weight install (Fox5flyer)
14. 04:43 PM - Re: Mass Balance weight install (Rick)
15. 04:47 PM - Re: Module vs coils (Jeffrey Puls)
16. 04:47 PM - Re: removing protective covering/film on flaperons (Robert Toth)
17. 05:48 PM - Re: removing protective covering/film on flaperons paint thinner (Lynn Matteson)
18. 05:48 PM - More on mass balance weights (Lynn Matteson)
19. 06:31 PM - Re: glide ratio (chad lively)
20. 07:27 PM - I don't understand why your temps are so hot. There are a couple of Kitfoxes (Rex & Jan Shaw)
21. 07:36 PM - Any realistic estimates on what a model IV with a 582 rate of climb (Rex & Jan Shaw)
22. 07:40 PM - Re: glide ratio (Lowell Fitt)
23. 07:44 PM - NSI Trigger Gap_Viton seal (Comp User)
24. 07:45 PM - Re: Module vs coils (Lowell Fitt)
25. 07:53 PM - Re: Spar reenforcement attachment (david yeamans)
26. 07:55 PM - Re: glide ratio (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
27. 08:22 PM - Re: More on mass balance weights (John King)
28. 08:55 PM - covering/film on flaperons paint thinner (Forfun3@aol.com)
29. 08:58 PM - Re: Module vs coils (John King)
30. 09:42 PM - Re: More on mass balance weights (Lynn Matteson)
31. 10:02 PM - Re: More on mass balance weights (Ted Palamarek)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Gauge error? High oil temps, continued. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
This happened to me with my coolant temp sender. Read about 30 degrees
high. What keyed me were two things. One was the unusually high temps.
The other was that after no flights for several days and turning on the
master my engine temp read 30 degrees higher than the digital OAT (before
engine start). A trip to Napa solved the problem.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Gauge error? High oil temps, continued.
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> To Don S. and the list,
>
> Maybe it is time to boil some water? I'll take bets
> on the outcome.
>
> Today instead of changing airflows or cutting my cowl,
> I tried another test. First the symptoms:
>
> - One gauge reads both GB and engine oil temps thru a
> switch.
>
> - When power is applied, this gauge reades 135 degrees
> F. I do not live in Death Valley.
>
> - In flight, both the engine and GB oil temps read
> high.
>
> - When more cooling airflow was applied on the last
> flight, there was no improvement.
>
> - Last year I did a cowl off engine run and used my IR
> heat gun aimed at the P/U point to check the gauge and
> it was a near match. This is why I assumed the gauge
> was accurate, even though it came high off the peg on
> powerup.
>
> Well today I mounted the outdoor P/U from a
> thermometer on the top of the G/B. The thermometer
> reads to 155 degrees, so I could confirm up to that
> point. The engine oil temp goes too high for the
> thermometer, so I could only check the GB. I figured
> the top would read higher than the bottom where the
> gauge P/U is mounted. However, the P/U reads oil temp
> internally, whereas the thermometer P/U only reads
> external case temp.
>
> Here are my readings from a 1/2 hr flight:
>
> Cockpit 185 190 200
>
> Thermometer 138 145 155
>
> The cockpit gauge was consistantly about 45 degrees
> high. After shutdown, the thermometer went off scale
> high, so I couldn't take any additional readings of
> value.
>
> I think I better boil some water tomorrow and check
> this gauge and sender for sure.
>
> Don S, you might want to do the same before you carve
> up your cowl. Maybe one of us will be lucky and find
> out it only cost an oil change and a new gauge instead
> of major alterations.
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
>
> _______________________________
> Express yourself with Y! Messenger! Free. Download now.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Don,
We havn't had any 90 deg. days this year!!! Maybe next year!!!!
Gil Levesque
Canada
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 9/6/04 4:52:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
canpilot03@yahoo.ca writes:
> I have my rad lowered one inch and a four inch section in the middle
> blocked off! My temps are 160-170 at cruise! By the way, the left side is clean
> (no bugs) I would guess that the air flow goes down below the rad completely,
> on that side! I never checked but I don't think I have a thermostat!
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
>
Gil,
What temps do you go to on a 90 degree day during climb? Your 160-170 is
what I get at cruise.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Robert
Please remember that when I mounted the scoop flush with the fuselage my
temps went up.. I lowered and angled the scoop to get my temps back to where
they were when I had my rad just lowered 1-1/2" into the airflow
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris, Robert
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rad Scoop Gary.
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert"
<Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Hi Gary,
I just ordered a scoop from Skystar and they told me that the radiator scoop
will not lower my water temps on my Rotax 582 Bluehead. They said the scoop
is a model IV speedster option and will restrict the air flow. I ordered it
anyway since it lowered your temps and will try to install it on my model II
Kitfox. Do you have spring gear or bungee gear?
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Algate
Subject: RE: Do you have any pics?RE: Kitfox-List: Rad Scoop
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Robert and Steve.
I'll post some photos tomorrow - no big deal to fit although I didn't follow
the Skystar directions as that would have meant lifting the floor. I just
used 4 x 8/32 SS screws and lock nuts which I drilled through the floor and
made cylindrical aluminum spacer tubes (about 1/2" long) to fill the space
between the floor and the fabric. The Rad hoses go through cut outs in the
side of the scoop (clearly outlined in the mold). It took me about 3 hours
to set up. I also added a stiffener in the bottom which I fiberglassed in
place so that I could screw my lights into.
Regards
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser <mfraser@gokenora.com>
Does anyone know the glide ratio power off with a kitfox IV 1050 and 1200? Is every
kitfox different?
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Jeff, When Larry had those symptoms, I believe it was ultimately traced to
an interruption in one of the red wires from the stator to the bad ignition
module. It had damaged half of one module, but even after replacing the
module, it would run rough until a jury rig was accomplished by pushing the
cable assembly coming from the stator together (compressing the cable end to
end) and tying it in that position. Larry got home with no incident, but is
now in the process of tracing the intermittent wire within the bundle. So
far he has opened it as far as he can without removing the fly-wheel.
There are three wires from the stator to each ignition module. The red one
powers the system with 12 v., the other two (white/red and white/green)
serves as the timing circuit.
Is your module set up on the engine as Rotax set it up or did you move it to
the firewall?
Rotax's design leads to a lot of vibration in the poor quality wire there,
and this is a weak part of the design.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>
> My 912UL is acting up. This isn't making sense. When checking my circuits
A and B on run up my circuit A doesn't do anything. When I check circuit B
the engine starts to quit, then runs, starts to quit, and then runs. If I
shut circuit A off, B runs up fine. I have a sneaky suspicion that it is
either my coils or modules. I just put in new plugs and bypassed my ignition
key. It's OK. Any ideas? Jeff Classic IV
>
>
> Jeffrey Puls
> pulsair@mindspring.com
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lyle Persels <lpers@mchsi.com>
As Lowell indicated, the problem is almost certainly related to wiring
in the module circuits. An open or an intermittent in the black wire
from each module to ground could also produce the symptoms you're reporting.
Lyle
Lowell Fitt wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
>Jeff, When Larry had those symptoms, I believe it was ultimately traced to
>an interruption in one of the red wires from the stator to the bad ignition
>module. It had damaged half of one module, but even after replacing the
>module, it would run rough until a jury rig was accomplished by pushing the
>cable assembly coming from the stator together (compressing the cable end to
>end) and tying it in that position. Larry got home with no incident, but is
>now in the process of tracing the intermittent wire within the bundle. So
>far he has opened it as far as he can without removing the fly-wheel.
>
>There are three wires from the stator to each ignition module. The red one
>powers the system with 12 v., the other two (white/red and white/green)
>serves as the timing circuit.
>
>Is your module set up on the engine as Rotax set it up or did you move it to
>the firewall?
>
>Rotax's design leads to a lot of vibration in the poor quality wire there,
>and this is a weak part of the design.
>
>Lowell
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>>
>>My 912UL is acting up. This isn't making sense. When checking my circuits
>>
>>
>A and B on run up my circuit A doesn't do anything. When I check circuit B
>the engine starts to quit, then runs, starts to quit, and then runs. If I
>shut circuit A off, B runs up fine. I have a sneaky suspicion that it is
>either my coils or modules. I just put in new plugs and bypassed my ignition
>key. It's OK. Any ideas? Jeff Classic IV
>
>
>>Jeffrey Puls
>>pulsair@mindspring.com
>>Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Okay thanks Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Algate
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Rad Scoop Gary.
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Robert
Please remember that when I mounted the scoop flush with the fuselage my
temps went up.. I lowered and angled the scoop to get my temps back to where
they were when I had my rad just lowered 1-1/2" into the airflow
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris, Robert
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rad Scoop Gary.
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert"
<Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Hi Gary,
I just ordered a scoop from Skystar and they told me that the radiator scoop
will not lower my water temps on my Rotax 582 Bluehead. They said the scoop
is a model IV speedster option and will restrict the air flow. I ordered it
anyway since it lowered your temps and will try to install it on my model II
Kitfox. Do you have spring gear or bungee gear?
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Algate
Subject: RE: Do you have any pics?RE: Kitfox-List: Rad Scoop
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Robert and Steve.
I'll post some photos tomorrow - no big deal to fit although I didn't follow
the Skystar directions as that would have meant lifting the floor. I just
used 4 x 8/32 SS screws and lock nuts which I drilled through the floor and
made cylindrical aluminum spacer tubes (about 1/2" long) to fill the space
between the floor and the fabric. The Rad hoses go through cut outs in the
side of the scoop (clearly outlined in the mold). It took me about 3 hours
to set up. I also added a stiffener in the bottom which I fiberglassed in
place so that I could screw my lights into.
Regards
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
Message 8
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| Subject: | Flapperon install. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joseph Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
I am ready to install my flapperons and I am considering using a .020 or
.025 thick doubler with a 1/2 inch reveal to distibute the load (drag) of
the flapperons. Is this overkill? Has anyone else done it or thought of
it? It just seams to me the flapperon attachment is a weak spot.
Thanks, Brett
Message 9
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| Subject: | [Off-topic] Letter from Norway 1945 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
OFF TOPIC
I feel ashamed to say this but last winter someone from the list contacted me
regarding a letter his mother got from Norway in 1945. Sorry, I forgot your
name. Could you contact me privately please? Thanks.
Michel
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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| Subject: | Mass Balance weight install |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
Please disregard my previous message about flapperon install. What I meant
to say was "mass balance weight installation". My concern is the
attachement of the mass balance weight to the flapperon. It appears the
.025 or .020 that the flapperon skin is made from may be a little thin to
handle the load or drag produced by the mass balance weight. I am
considering using a doubler under the weight with a 1/2" reveal all around
and riveted as extra support. Does anyone have any input or experience
with this? Thanks and I apologize for draggin' y'all into my confusion.
Brett
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Mass Balance weight install |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
>
> Please disregard my previous message about flapperon install. What I meant
> to say was "mass balance weight installation". My concern is the
> attachement of the mass balance weight to the flapperon. It appears the
> .025 or .020 that the flapperon skin is made from may be a little thin to
> handle the load or drag produced by the mass balance weight. I am
> considering using a doubler under the weight with a 1/2" reveal all around
> and riveted as extra support. Does anyone have any input or experience
> with this? Thanks and I apologize for draggin' y'all into my confusion.
> Brett
>
I would think that would be overkill. When I was taking my last plane to the
dump, I tried to tear off the mass balance weights by hand and couldn't do
it. I wasn't worrying about damaging the flaperons either....
Howard
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Gauge error? High oil temps, continued. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Well, I didn't want to get my hopes up too much....
I tested the gauge and GB sender today in hot water
against a candy thermometer and the indoor/outdoor
thermometer I used for the flight check. I couldn't
ge everything up to speed from the microwave to the
plane before the boiling water dropped to 200, so I
only checked below that. Results?
The candy thermometer and digital indoor/outdoor were
right together at 155 F and below - max for the
indoor/outdoor.
The cockpit gauge was off by 20 degrees at 160 F and
worse below that. But the error tapered off to only 5
degrees by 195. It seems to be close by midrange with
the major errors below that.
I found a digital readout gauge that also has settable
alarms on it that may give me more accurate low scale
readings better for cold ops and the GB temps. I
might still buy that.
But overall it looks like the near overheats are real
and I better add some cooling air. I better scan past
historical files for the fixes applied too and see
what wheels I don't need to recreate. Thanks for the
advice...
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
-- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
> This happened to me with my coolant temp sender.
> Read about 30 degrees
> high. What keyed me were two things. One was the
> unusually high temps.
> The other was that after no flights for several days
> and turning on the
> master my engine temp read 30 degrees higher than
> the digital OAT (before
> engine start). A trip to Napa solved the problem.
> Darrel
__________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Mass Balance weight install |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Good question. However, if properly installed according to the manual, the
flaperon skin is strong enough to support the weight(s). Adding doublers
will thicken the skin and may make it difficult to install the weight as
it's designed to fit the existing leading edge of the non-modified flaperon.
Darrel
>
> Please disregard my previous message about flapperon install. What I meant
> to say was "mass balance weight installation". My concern is the
> attachement of the mass balance weight to the flapperon. It appears the
> .025 or .020 that the flapperon skin is made from may be a little thin to
> handle the load or drag produced by the mass balance weight. I am
> considering using a doubler under the weight with a 1/2" reveal all around
> and riveted as extra support. Does anyone have any input or experience
> with this? Thanks and I apologize for draggin' y'all into my confusion.
> Brett
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Mass Balance weight install |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
One experience relevant to thin skin flapperon, I think more like .015 maybe
a little more, is that they flex quite a bit in flight. If not super careful
on the trailing edge rivets counter sink they tend to pull through. I ended
up replacing them all with small button heads just to be safe. I think I may
have done an over kill, but they look beefy and I feel better seeing them
tweaking up and down.
BTW talked to Michael today. He is going in for some more surgery this
afternoon. I didnt ask for what. Still cant recall what happened. His
copilot went home two days ago. He dosent know recall what happened either.
He seemed in good spirits and was thankful to be here. He agrees the wings
are not suppose to be folded for storage the way he did it.
Rick N656T (still saving gas money)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Howard Firm
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mass Balance weight install
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
>
> Please disregard my previous message about flapperon install. What I meant
> to say was "mass balance weight installation". My concern is the
> attachement of the mass balance weight to the flapperon. It appears the
> .025 or .020 that the flapperon skin is made from may be a little thin to
> handle the load or drag produced by the mass balance weight. I am
> considering using a doubler under the weight with a 1/2" reveal all around
> and riveted as extra support. Does anyone have any input or experience
> with this? Thanks and I apologize for draggin' y'all into my confusion.
> Brett
>
I would think that would be overkill. When I was taking my last plane to the
dump, I tried to tear off the mass balance weights by hand and couldn't do
it. I wasn't worrying about damaging the flaperons either....
Howard
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Lowell,
It is mounted on the engine as recommended by Rotax. I would love to mount
it on the firewall but can't seem to find any room. What about inside the
firewall? Jeff
> [Original Message]
> From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@inreach.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/7/2004 9:47:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> Jeff, When Larry had those symptoms, I believe it was ultimately traced
to
> an interruption in one of the red wires from the stator to the bad
ignition
> module. It had damaged half of one module, but even after replacing the
> module, it would run rough until a jury rig was accomplished by pushing
the
> cable assembly coming from the stator together (compressing the cable end
to
> end) and tying it in that position. Larry got home with no incident, but
is
> now in the process of tracing the intermittent wire within the bundle. So
> far he has opened it as far as he can without removing the fly-wheel.
>
> There are three wires from the stator to each ignition module. The red
one
> powers the system with 12 v., the other two (white/red and white/green)
> serves as the timing circuit.
>
> Is your module set up on the engine as Rotax set it up or did you move it
to
> the firewall?
>
> Rotax's design leads to a lot of vibration in the poor quality wire there,
> and this is a weak part of the design.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls"
<pulsair@mindspring.com>
> >
> > My 912UL is acting up. This isn't making sense. When checking my
circuits
> A and B on run up my circuit A doesn't do anything. When I check circuit B
> the engine starts to quit, then runs, starts to quit, and then runs. If I
> shut circuit A off, B runs up fine. I have a sneaky suspicion that it is
> either my coils or modules. I just put in new plugs and bypassed my
ignition
> key. It's OK. Any ideas? Jeff Classic IV
> >
> >
> > Jeffrey Puls
> > pulsair@mindspring.com
> > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: removing protective covering/film on flaperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Robert Toth <rtoth1@verizon.net>
I had the same problem, used paint stripper, worked fine!
Lynn Matteson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
>My IV is 11 years old (I'm the 4th owner), and the protective covering
>on the flaperons is stuck fast, and only comes off in very small
>pieces. This is gonna take a LONG time to remove, unless I come up with
>a suitable solvent. I'll have to be very careful not to loosen the
>structural adhesive or the foam ribs inside. I tried to use a heat
>gun...very carefully....but not much luck, as it just puckers the
>covering/film.HELP!!
>Lynn
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: removing protective covering/film on flaperons paint |
thinner
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Hallelujah! You nailed it, Ralph. I laid a paint thinner/mineral
spirits-soaked rag over a section of the flaperon and about 5 hours
later the stuff was curling up and falling off...who'da thunk it!
Lynn
On Monday, September 6, 2004, at 10:50 PM, Forfun3@aol.com wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com
>
> hello
>
> paint thinner on an old towel layed on soak over night works great.
>
> Ralph
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | More on mass balance weights |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I was told that the two weights that I have for my Speedster (one on
each flaperon) was enough, although the manual calls for two on each
wing. Any thoughts?
Lynn
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "chad lively" <chadl@compu.net>
I got some first hand experience with "glide-ratio' on a IV 1200 last
week-end. Shortly after take off from a airport beside the Tennessee river I
"blew" a rod bering. I was at 1650 Agl, 3.5 natucial milkes of water and
about 1/2 of trees from the airport. Wasn't fun, but we got back to the
airport with no damage except to the 583 Rotax, not a 582, but a 583. By the
way this is the third time for my first hand experience with "glide ratio"
in this IV 1200.
Cheers,
Chad Lively
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maurice Fraser" <mfraser@gokenora.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: glide ratio
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser <mfraser@gokenora.com>
>
> Does anyone know the glide ratio power off with a kitfox IV 1050 and 1200?
Is every kitfox different?
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | I don't understand why your temps are so hot. There are a |
couple of Kitfoxes
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
I was just looking at my radiator on my MKIV/582 and see that the guy that
built it has moved it back about a foot. I wonder if this is another point
that enters into the equation or was it just to get the radiator away from
the cowl outlet that is about 1/2 the width and about 2" deep. Where is
everyone elses ? Up close to the cowl or well back ?
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Any realistic estimates on what a model IV with a 582 rate |
of climb
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Any realistic estimates on what a model IV with a 582 rate of climb
would be with full fuel (26 gal) and pilot on a 90 degree day?
I'd like establish a climb and see how high i went in a minute?? Don't
know what to shoot for but I'm not getting the climb i expected so want
some bench marks.
I have a MKIV Classic speedster/582. On a hot day with nearly the 1200 lbs
MTOW. [2 guys ] we get about 300FPM .
I am not sure with only one but would guess 500 FPM
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 22
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Maurice,
I really don't know how to answer this question. I have found though, that
I will descend at about 500 fps (according to the VSI) at full retarded
throttle at 60 mph. At 55 mph, I also get 500 fpm descent. I don't know
what my best glide speed is. Something to do next flight, I guess.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maurice Fraser" <mfraser@gokenora.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: glide ratio
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser <mfraser@gokenora.com>
>
> Does anyone know the glide ratio power off with a kitfox IV 1050 and 1200?
Is every kitfox different?
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | NSI Trigger Gap_Viton seal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Comp User" <trebla@directinter.net>
Does anyone know the correct gap for the ignition triggers for the NSI turbo?
Main input shaft seal for gear reduction. Can not find a viton seal locally. Found
one that is correct but it is rated for 200 deg. f. The viton seal is 400
deg. f. Anyone using the 200 deg. seal?
Thanks
Albert
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Jeff, The question was more rhetorical in nature. Mine is on the engine
also, but due to numerous comments from the list when I was building, I
tightly secured all the wiring into bundles even making a sort of conduit
that supported the wires to the braid section.
It is interesting that Larry's fault was well into the braid.
Even if the modules were mounted to the firewall ( a friend has his mounted
on the oil tank supports) there will still be movement as the engine moves
within the mount.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>
> Lowell,
> It is mounted on the engine as recommended by Rotax. I would love to mount
> it on the firewall but can't seem to find any room. What about inside the
> firewall? Jeff
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@inreach.com>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Date: 9/7/2004 9:47:24 AM
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
> >
> > Jeff, When Larry had those symptoms, I believe it was ultimately traced
> to
> > an interruption in one of the red wires from the stator to the bad
> ignition
> > module. It had damaged half of one module, but even after replacing the
> > module, it would run rough until a jury rig was accomplished by pushing
> the
> > cable assembly coming from the stator together (compressing the cable
end
> to
> > end) and tying it in that position. Larry got home with no incident,
but
> is
> > now in the process of tracing the intermittent wire within the bundle.
So
> > far he has opened it as far as he can without removing the fly-wheel.
> >
> > There are three wires from the stator to each ignition module. The red
> one
> > powers the system with 12 v., the other two (white/red and white/green)
> > serves as the timing circuit.
> >
> > Is your module set up on the engine as Rotax set it up or did you move
it
> to
> > the firewall?
> >
> > Rotax's design leads to a lot of vibration in the poor quality wire
there,
> > and this is a weak part of the design.
> >
> > Lowell
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls"
> <pulsair@mindspring.com>
> > >
> > > My 912UL is acting up. This isn't making sense. When checking my
> circuits
> > A and B on run up my circuit A doesn't do anything. When I check circuit
B
> > the engine starts to quit, then runs, starts to quit, and then runs. If
I
> > shut circuit A off, B runs up fine. I have a sneaky suspicion that it is
> > either my coils or modules. I just put in new plugs and bypassed my
> ignition
> > key. It's OK. Any ideas? Jeff Classic IV
> > >
> > >
> > > Jeffrey Puls
> > > pulsair@mindspring.com
> > > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spar reenforcement attachment |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "david yeamans" <dafox@ckt.net>
Dear Ray,
For what its worth. I had the same thing happen to my 4-1200.
when you fold the wing back, it sags just a little, so, when you close the wing
you have to raise it just a little to align it, if you don't, it will wedge
and cause the reinforcement bracket to bend. I've had it happen twice, ( and
it usually happens when someone else is helping ) The Reinforcement
is epoxy'd and riveted, or should be. If the the rivets are tight and the epoxy
has not unbonded, like mine was, I say, don't worry. This happened
four years ago, and over 200 hours, and I check it at every conditioning
inspection, and nothing has changed.
From what I understand, the front spar pin could fall out, and the
wing would always be forced forward from the aerodynamics.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: kurt schrader
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spar reenforcement attachment
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Ouch!
That is a bad place to bend Ray. How much did it get
bent?
I would worry that something like that would have a
short future after being bent much at all.
If I understand correctly, you are talking about a
part that is in compression in flight. At least that
part is good. But from what you described, I wouldn't
trust it until it was inspected for micro-damage. (my
word) You may need to take off the doublers and
attach longer ones a good bit past where the bend
occured. That is likely to mess with some fabric.
Or....
Anyone know if that cuff attachment reinforcement is
still available? BlueSky of somebody? That would be
a great, strong fix.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- KITFOXPILOT@att.net wrote:
> Yesterday a friend was learning how to extend and
> pin my wings. I thought I explained how the
> attachment slides over the holes for the pin
> placement. Well the top attachment got bent down.
> I bent it back up, and attached and pined the wing.
> I don't think this will be a problem, we flew the
> plane and everything was great! well except for the
> strong cross winds!!
>
> Ray
__________________________________
Message 26
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
I did some flight profile tests as outlined by Ed Kolono in Sport Aviation and
found that best glide for 675# empty Classic IV to be about 70mph."your experience
may vary". Doing the tests is part of the fun.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
>
> Maurice,
>
> I really don't know how to answer this question. I have found though, that
> I will descend at about 500 fps (according to the VSI) at full retarded
> throttle at 60 mph. At 55 mph, I also get 500 fpm descent. I don't know
> what my best glide speed is. Something to do next flight, I guess.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Maurice Fraser"
> To:
> Subject: Kitfox-List: glide ratio
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser
> >
> > Does anyone know the glide ratio power off with a kitfox IV 1050 and 1200?
> Is every kitfox different?
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
I did some flight profile tests as outlined by Ed Kolono in Sport Aviation and
found that best glide for 675# empty Classic IV to be about 70mph."your experience
may vary". Doing the tests is part of the fun.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <LCFITT@INREACH.COM>
Maurice,
I really don't know how to answer this question. I have found though, that
I will descend at about 500 fps (according to the VSI) at full retarded
throttle at 60 mph. At 55 mph, I also get 500 fpm descent. I don't know
what my best glide speed is. Something to do next flight, I guess.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maurice Fraser" <MFRASER@GOKENORA.COM>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Kitfox-List: glide ratio
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser <MFRASER@GOKENORA.COM>
Does anyone know the glide ratio power off with a kitfox IV 1050 and 1200? <B
R> Is every kitfox different?
www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: More on mass balance weights |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Lynn,
The single weight is heavier than one of the weights where two are
required. They started out with a single heavier weight and later
distributed the weight by using two lighter weights.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Lynn Matteson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
>I was told that the two weights that I have for my Speedster (one on
>each flaperon) was enough, although the manual calls for two on each
>wing. Any thoughts?
>Lynn
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | covering/film on flaperons paint thinner |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com
Lynn
I practically was ready to pull my hair out, but keep at it until this idea
was tried, glad it worked for you as well.
Ralph
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Jeff,
It most likely is a broken wire going from the modules to the stator in
back of the engine.. It happened to me twice on my Model IV. One way
to help locate it is to scrape your finger nail along the length of the
wires. The wire inside its outer jacket fractures while the jacket
appears OK. Replace as much of the wire as you can with aircraft grade
wire. Do that on both modules. Make sure that you tie down the wire
bundles well so as to reduce movement on startup and shut down.
When I built my Series 6 I moved the ignition modules from the engine to
the part of the engine mount that is attached to the firewall. The
modules are now completely disconnected from any engine movement.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Jeffrey Puls wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>
>Lowell,
>It is mounted on the engine as recommended by Rotax. I would love to mount
>it on the firewall but can't seem to find any room. What about inside the
>firewall? Jeff
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: More on mass balance weights |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Ahhh, so that's the story...thanks, John.
Lynn
On Tuesday, September 7, 2004, at 11:23 PM, John King wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>
> Lynn,
>
> The single weight is heavier than one of the weights where two are
> required. They started out with a single heavier weight and later
> distributed the weight by using two lighter weights.
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
>
>
> Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>
>> I was told that the two weights that I have for my Speedster (one on
>> each flaperon) was enough, although the manual calls for two on each
>> wing. Any thoughts?
>> Lynn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | More on mass balance weights |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
John
This issue of the mass balance was thrashed about, a year or
so ago. When the discussion concluded there was no
definitive reason why some models had two and others had one
weight. Thanks for clearing this up. Anyone know what the
two different balances weigh???
Ted
Edmonton, Ab
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: More on mass balance weights
Lynn,
The single weight is heavier than one of the weights where
two are
required. They started out with a single heavier weight and
later
distributed the weight by using two lighter weights.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
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