Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:25 AM - Re: Module vs coils (Kirk Martenson)
2. 07:28 AM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT --- As a FLOATFOX --- Landing Help (Gary Algate)
3. 08:56 AM - My 912UL oil change proceedure (Allan Arthur)
4. 09:11 AM - even more on mass balance weights (Joel Mapes)
5. 10:21 AM - Re: Side air outlets (Jim Crowder)
6. 11:36 AM - Blank Panel- model 5? (Clifford Begnaud)
7. 01:26 PM - Re: Can't find service Bulletins (RICHARD HUTSON)
8. 01:55 PM - Re: Can't find service Bulletins (Torgeir Mortensen)
9. 02:43 PM - Re: Module vs coils (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
10. 03:01 PM - Kitfox Video (Maurice Fraser)
11. 03:34 PM - Re: Module vs coils (Torgeir Mortensen)
12. 03:43 PM - Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) (kurt schrader)
13. 04:18 PM - Re: Module vs coils (Jeffrey Puls)
14. 04:29 PM - Re: Kitfox Video (gjglh@itlnet.net)
15. 05:02 PM - Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) (Howard Firm)
16. 05:12 PM - Re: My 912UL oil change proceedure (neflyer48)
17. 05:21 PM - Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
18. 05:24 PM - Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
19. 05:55 PM - I went to Skystar's site and couldn't find the service bulletins today (Rex & Jan Shaw)
20. 06:01 PM - Doors Opening on S-6 (John Banes)
21. 06:07 PM - Bottom False Ribs (Jose M. Toro)
22. 06:27 PM - Re: My 912UL oil change proceedure (Lowell Fitt)
23. 07:56 PM - Re: Doors Opening on S-6 (david yeamans)
24. 07:56 PM - wings (Maurice Fraser)
25. 08:01 PM - Re: wings (Ron)
26. 08:36 PM - Re: door gas pistons (Ron)
27. 08:50 PM - Re: Re: Tail wheel spring (kurt schrader)
28. 08:55 PM - Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) (kurt schrader)
29. 09:08 PM - Re: wings (Randy Daughenbaugh)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
Jeff:
Did you use an ohm meter to find the broken wire?
Kirk
Classic IV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>
> I would like to thank everyone who helped with my problem. It was a broken
wire from the stator to the module. I'm airborne again. Thanks, Jeff Classic
IV
>
> Jeffrey Puls
> pulsair@mindspring.com
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | FIRST FLIGHT --- As a FLOATFOX --- Landing Help |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Barry
I have 300hrs on my Lite2/582 with Zenair straight floats I tend to use
about 15 degree of flaps under most conditions when landing. My final is
normally at idle but at about 5 - 10ft off the surface I raise the nose and
apply power gradually to arrest descent.
This gives a very soft landing with the nose high as you are countering the
added drag of the nose high orientation with additional power.
As everybody else has stated glassy water is the most interesting situation
and I treat it the same as a frozen lake landing with blowing snow. In each
situation depth perception is lost and I find the best way to land is either
parallel and close to the shoreline or an instrument approach at about 60mph
/ power on and nose high. Don't look for the water surface as I guarantee
you will be wrong. I am consistently amazed at how wrong I am when I "look"
for the surface as you can be out by up to 20ft.
On take off I always use about 20 - 30 degree of flap, especially with a
passenger as it shortens the take of run considerably.
The Kitfox handles great on floats and is a breeze to fly once you have
adequate training. The Kitfox also stalls and recovers great on floats -
power on and off, and slipping is controlled and easy.
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
Message 3
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| Subject: | My 912UL oil change proceedure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Arthur" <alnan@earthlink.net>
I just changed my oil and thought that I would pass along my
oil change proceedure. For what it's worth. Any comments?
Allan Arthur, "Sport Pilot"
N40AA Series 5 Taildragger (140 hours)
912 ULS, Warp Drive 3 blade prop
Martinez, CA (Byron Airport, Hanger C8)
...............................................................
Kitfox N40AA Oil Change Proceedure
1. Warm engine.
2. Remove tank attachment band, then lift and slide tank to
the left. Remove drain plug and drain tank. Remove tank top,
remove screen and screen support plate and wipe out the tank.
Reinstall tank parts and lid.
3. Reinstall drain plug and safety wire. Reinstall tank.
4. Disconnect oil return line from tank and remove top
spark plugs .
5. Turn propeller ccw and purge oil from oil cooler,filter
and and sump.
6. Change filter.
7. Fill tank with 3 liters of oil
(see SI-18-1997 R5 or greater).
8. Seal oil return connection on tank and add an extra
rubber gasket to tank cap.
9. Connect pressure tank hose to oil breather hose at
bottom of fire wall and presurize tank to 5 psi.
10. Hand crank prop (many times) to obtain steady oil
pressure and clean oil from oil return line.
11. Reinstall oil return line and spark plugs ( 20 NM).
12. Remove pressure hose from oil breather and remove
the extra rubber gasket from tank cap.
13. Check oil level and top off if necessary.
14. Remove, inspect and clean magnetic plug. Reinstall
and safety wire.
15. Fill in engine log book. Test fly solo.
Message 4
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| Subject: | even more on mass balance weights |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <Joel.Mapes@roxio.com>
Lynn,
My early serial number model 5 has 4 mass balances, each 24.5 to 25 oz.
Joel
Message 5
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| Subject: | Side air outlets |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Crowder <jimlc@att.net>
At 11:42 PM 9/8/2004, you wrote:
>Hey Paul,
>
>Thanks for the suggestion. This was before my time on
>the list. Would you happen to know if the Acipiter
>info was on the main list or on the seperate NSI list?
> Since you don't have the nsi and knew about it, I
>have been looking on the main archive. Also I don't
>know how to find the nsi archive anyway.
>
>So far all I have found is 912 oil tempo problems.
>The archive doesn't go back past 1999 as far as I can
>see. Hope it was after that.
>
>Still looking before I cut,
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
Kurt,
Acipiter was working on my Kitfox at the time. After they published their
article, I still ran into overheating moving my aircraft to my local
airfield. I have made further modifications and by my last flights, it
appears my cooling problem is basically cured for me. I believe there are
more than one set of solutions. For each of us, it is a matter of finding
our own mix.
Jim Crowder
Message 6
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| Subject: | Blank Panel- model 5? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Does anyone have blank instrument panel for a model 5/6/7 that you would
want to sell?
Thanks,
Cliff
shoeless@barefootpilot.com
303-673-0021
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Can't find service Bulletins |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RICHARD HUTSON" <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
Sky star is redoing the web site and they have a few problems. Go to their
web site on the left hand side click on builder support and then click on
service bulletins
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Can't find service Bulletins
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> I went to Skystar's site and couldn't find the service bulletins today.
> I found them the other day, and fortunately I could trace my history
> and found where I had visited SB #34 recently, and just changed the
> address to get to SB #3. Why can't I get there directly? When I visited
> the other day, there was a prompt right on their site that took me
> directly to the SB's...what's going on?
> Lynn
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Can't find service Bulletins |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Here is the direct link:
http://www.skystar.com/Service%20Bulletins/sb3.htm
Torgeir.
(It's working ok.)
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:26:03 -0500, RICHARD HUTSON
<rhutson@midsouth.rr.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RICHARD HUTSON"
> <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
>
> Sky star is redoing the web site and they have a few problems. Go to
> their
> web site on the left hand side click on builder support and then click on
> service bulletins
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Can't find service Bulletins
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>
>> I went to Skystar's site and couldn't find the service bulletins today.
>> I found them the other day, and fortunately I could trace my history
>> and found where I had visited SB #34 recently, and just changed the
>> address to get to SB #3. Why can't I get there directly? When I visited
>> the other day, there was a prompt right on their site that took me
>> directly to the SB's...what's going on?
>> Lynn
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 9/13/2004 10:26:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kirk@mninter.net writes:
Jeff:
Did you use an ohm meter to find the broken wire?
Kirk
Classic IV
Hello Kirk,
One method is to raid your wife's sewing supplies for a straight pin used
for silk work (very thin pin). Pierce each wire right at the module's entrance
one by one and check with a continuity meter of your choice or a test light.
Be sure as you check each wire that it is free at the other end so you are
not getting parallel circuit readings. Gently pull the wire under test to
see that you have good solid continuity.
Unfortunately this test will not warn you that most strands are already
broken and the few that are still good will soon break!
Does anyone know if Rotax is going to address this wiring weakness someday?
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Outback, (out back in the garage)
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser <mfraser@gokenora.com>
Does Anyone have a copy of an information video on the kitfox airplane that they
would be willing to send me. I am interested in getting a kitfox and would like
to see a video on them. If you do please email me and I will give you an address.
Thanks in advance
Maurice
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
PS: A continue meter is equal to an ohm-meter.
Baisically a continue meter beep, or light -when there is connection.
Torgeir.
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 17:42:45 EDT, <KITFOXZ@aol.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 9/13/2004 10:26:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> kirk@mninter.net writes:
>
> Jeff:
>
> Did you use an ohm meter to find the broken wire?
>
> Kirk
> Classic IV
>
>
> Hello Kirk,
>
> One method is to raid your wife's sewing supplies for a straight pin
> used
> for silk work (very thin pin). Pierce each wire right at the module's
> entrance
> one by one and check with a continuity meter of your choice or a test
> light.
> Be sure as you check each wire that it is free at the other end so you
> are
> not getting parallel circuit readings. Gently pull the wire under test
> to
> see that you have good solid continuity.
>
> Unfortunately this test will not warn you that most strands are already
> broken and the few that are still good will soon break!
>
> Does anyone know if Rotax is going to address this wiring weakness
> someday?
>
> John P. Marzluf
> Columbus, Ohio
> Outback, (out back in the garage)
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Side air outlets: N210F update :-) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Well, my cowl is cut and I flew 5 times starting
Saturday to compare before and after results.
First thanks to all who helped. And Torgier has some
really good info that reinforced the side outlet
decision based on non-KitFox planes' use.
I made my cuts from the firewall fwd and just above
the bottom curve. They are 6.5 inches long and 6"
high, opening 1.5" inward at the front. Total of 18
sq in extra outlet. These can later be opened or
closed more with changed inserts, hinged at the front
to open outward, or made controllable from the
cockpit. I just like flexibility with unknowns.
I also removed one of two landing lights in the front
inlet that was origionally for the oil cooler. This
gave extra inlet air pointed right at the bottom of
the GB. (I still plan to fly after reinstalling the
light to see if the temps stay down.)
Results for OAT's of around 28C/82F and 80 KIAS/92
mph:
- GB temp stabilizes at 180 indicated, or calibrated
to 160-165 F with the candy thermometer.
- Engine oil temp stabilizes at 210-215. Oil pressure
is 48-53. Hotter in climb, but rapid cooling to 180
or so on descent.
- Coolant stabilizes at 160, but ranges from 140 to
180 depending on pwr used. (Using the fixed scoop
outlet door right now)
I did a continuous climb to 7,500' at cruise climb
power and everything stayed within limits. First time
I was able to do that. I haven't tried long high pwr
climbs yet.
Conclusions: Everything looks good, though I have to
fly in hotter and colder wx to confirm.
Question: Should I balance the oil cooler and
radiator airflow better in the scoop? Maybe raise the
coolant temp and lower the oil temp each by 10
degrees? Or are the temps OK as is? The oil is just
above boiling to clear out any water, yet gives good
oil pressure. Maybe I should just raise the coolant
to 180 or so?
Where are you Don S? Did you test your side vents
yet?
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
__________________________________
Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Module vs coils |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Kirk,
I started off using the ohm meter but checked the plug connectors first. I
took each wire one at a time and slightly pulled on it. The rubber wire
coating on one stretched. It obviously shouldn't do that. I stretched it
again and took my pocket knife and ran it down where it stretched. It went
through like butter. I could just see doing that and cut the wire
needlessly, However, I was pretty sure. John Z taught me a thing or two
about wires. Repaired it and circuits acted appropriately. I lucked out for
a change. Jeff
> [Original Message]
> From: Kirk Martenson <kirk@mninter.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/13/2004 10:24:34 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
>
> Jeff:
>
> Did you use an ohm meter to find the broken wire?
>
> Kirk
> Classic IV
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Module vs coils
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls"
<pulsair@mindspring.com>
> >
> > I would like to thank everyone who helped with my problem. It was a
broken
> wire from the stator to the module. I'm airborne again. Thanks, Jeff
Classic
> IV
> >
> > Jeffrey Puls
> > pulsair@mindspring.com
> > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: gjglh@itlnet.net
There's nothing better than a ride in a kitfox to get you hooked. You
won't find a more forgiving and fun flying airplane.
Gary
---- Original Message ----
From: mfraser@gokenora.com
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Kitfox Video
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser
><mfraser@gokenora.com>
>
>Does Anyone have a copy of an information video on the kitfox
>airplane that they would be willing to send me. I am interested in
>getting a kitfox and would like to see a video on them. If you do
>please email me and I will give you an address.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Maurice
>
>
>=====
>=====
>=====
>=====
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
That's great news so far....I wish I could have tested mine while outside
temps were higher here, but it's nice to have the cooler smooth air for the
early hours. If you get time, take some pics and show us your new cowl!!!
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: My 912UL oil change proceedure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "neflyer48" <neflyer48@cableone.net>
Allen:
You really need to get a quick drain from Rotax.
I just slide a tube onto the quick drain that drains into a can, then push
up the drain and lock open. While it's draining, I change the filter. I
don't worry about getting all the oil out of the lines, it's still good oil.
The whole process takes about 15 minutes. The only thing I remove is the
cowling.
Hope this helps.
Jerry Kohles
M3 912
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Arthur" <alnan@earthlink.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: My 912UL oil change proceedure
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Arthur" <alnan@earthlink.net>
>
> I just changed my oil and thought that I would pass along my
> oil change proceedure. For what it's worth. Any comments?
>
> Allan Arthur, "Sport Pilot"
> N40AA Series 5 Taildragger (140 hours)
> 912 ULS, Warp Drive 3 blade prop
> Martinez, CA (Byron Airport, Hanger C8)
>
> ...............................................................
> Kitfox N40AA Oil Change Proceedure
>
> 1. Warm engine.
>
> 2. Remove tank attachment band, then lift and slide tank to
> the left. Remove drain plug and drain tank. Remove tank top,
> remove screen and screen support plate and wipe out the tank.
> Reinstall tank parts and lid.
>
> 3. Reinstall drain plug and safety wire. Reinstall tank.
>
> 4. Disconnect oil return line from tank and remove top
> spark plugs .
>
> 5. Turn propeller ccw and purge oil from oil cooler,filter
> and and sump.
>
> 6. Change filter.
>
> 7. Fill tank with 3 liters of oil
> (see SI-18-1997 R5 or greater).
>
> 8. Seal oil return connection on tank and add an extra
> rubber gasket to tank cap.
>
> 9. Connect pressure tank hose to oil breather hose at
> bottom of fire wall and presurize tank to 5 psi.
>
> 10. Hand crank prop (many times) to obtain steady oil
> pressure and clean oil from oil return line.
>
> 11. Reinstall oil return line and spark plugs ( 20 NM).
>
> 12. Remove pressure hose from oil breather and remove
> the extra rubber gasket from tank cap.
>
> 13. Check oil level and top off if necessary.
>
> 14. Remove, inspect and clean magnetic plug. Reinstall
> and safety wire.
>
> 15. Fill in engine log book. Test fly solo.
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Where are you Don S? Did you test your side vents
yet?
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
No, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
My new fabricated vents are laying on top of the wing. I've cut and
re-fiberglassed the cowl. Have a new radiator cowl about 70% laid out. Still
have lots of work to do before installing the side vents and getting back in the
air.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> That's great news so far....I wish I could have tested mine while outside
> temps were higher here, but it's nice to have the cooler smooth air for the
> early hours. If you get time, take some pics and show us your new cowl!!!
>
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
Howard,
Who the heck are you talking to and what great news?
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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| Subject: | I went to Skystar's site and couldn't find the service bulletins |
today
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
To find the service bulletins go to the Skystar site then History then
Builders Support then Service Bulletins.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Doors Opening on S-6 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
I'm ready to install the gas struts on the doors. Neither door touches the
flush type drains on the wings when the door is fully open. Since I only
get one shot at the final adjustment I would greatly appreciate input on the
following.
How much clearance should there be between the bottom of the wing and the
door when it is open? Is it better to have it open so that it contacts the
wing to help steady the door when it is open for flight? If not then how
much clearance is enough to allow flexing of the door in flight without
contacting the wing?
Thanks in advance,
John Banes
S-6 912S
Message 21
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| Subject: | Bottom False Ribs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Hi All:
Is it possible to adapt bottom false ribs to KF II wings? Would this make the
wing faster? What increase in weight should I expect?
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Kitfox II/582
"A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
---------------------------------
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: My 912UL oil change proceedure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Just one thought Allan. When you ay turn the prop counter clockwise to
purge the oil lines do you mean counter to the normal rotation of the prop.
If that is what you meant, Rotax STRONGLY recommends never turn the prop
backwards more than one blade. There apparently have been instances where
air has been sucked into the lines and it can be hard to purge using the.
Granted, this advice might refer only to normal operational times, but at
the OSH forum it was mentioned during the oil change discussion.
I have always just let the thing drain without the oil filter for a while,
They discouraged that also.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Arthur" <alnan@earthlink.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: My 912UL oil change proceedure
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Arthur" <alnan@earthlink.net>
>
> I just changed my oil and thought that I would pass along my
> oil change proceedure. For what it's worth. Any comments?
>
> Allan Arthur, "Sport Pilot"
> N40AA Series 5 Taildragger (140 hours)
> 912 ULS, Warp Drive 3 blade prop
> Martinez, CA (Byron Airport, Hanger C8)
>
> ...............................................................
> Kitfox N40AA Oil Change Proceedure
>
> 1. Warm engine.
>
> 2. Remove tank attachment band, then lift and slide tank to
> the left. Remove drain plug and drain tank. Remove tank top,
> remove screen and screen support plate and wipe out the tank.
> Reinstall tank parts and lid.
>
> 3. Reinstall drain plug and safety wire. Reinstall tank.
>
> 4. Disconnect oil return line from tank and remove top
> spark plugs .
>
> 5. Turn propeller ccw and purge oil from oil cooler,filter
> and and sump.
>
> 6. Change filter.
>
> 7. Fill tank with 3 liters of oil
> (see SI-18-1997 R5 or greater).
>
> 8. Seal oil return connection on tank and add an extra
> rubber gasket to tank cap.
>
> 9. Connect pressure tank hose to oil breather hose at
> bottom of fire wall and presurize tank to 5 psi.
>
> 10. Hand crank prop (many times) to obtain steady oil
> pressure and clean oil from oil return line.
>
> 11. Reinstall oil return line and spark plugs ( 20 NM).
>
> 12. Remove pressure hose from oil breather and remove
> the extra rubber gasket from tank cap.
>
> 13. Check oil level and top off if necessary.
>
> 14. Remove, inspect and clean magnetic plug. Reinstall
> and safety wire.
>
> 15. Fill in engine log book. Test fly solo.
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Doors Opening on S-6 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "david yeamans" <dafox@ckt.net>
Hello John,
When I installed my gas struts, I wanted the door to open as high as possible
to give more room getting into the cockpit, but not touch the wing.
I allowed 1/4 " clerence between the door and the wing. It flys great
with the door's open. It dosen't need the wing to stabolize it, and best not
to have that contact. the Kitfox was designed to fly with the doors open,
and it does fly great that way. The doors hardly move when you are flying
with them open. Its one of the best thrills in a Kitfox!!!!! Do It !!!
David
----- Original Message -----
From: John Banes
To: Kitfox list - Matronics
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:01 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Doors Opening on S-6
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
I'm ready to install the gas struts on the doors. Neither door touches the
flush type drains on the wings when the door is fully open. Since I only
get one shot at the final adjustment I would greatly appreciate input on the
following.
How much clearance should there be between the bottom of the wing and the
door when it is open? Is it better to have it open so that it contacts the
wing to help steady the door when it is open for flight? If not then how
much clearance is enough to allow flexing of the door in flight without
contacting the wing?
Thanks in advance,
John Banes
S-6 912S
Message 24
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Maurice Fraser <mfraser@gokenora.com>
Can anyone tell me how the wood in the wings (ribs) is treated to prevent dry rot
and insects from weakening them?
Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
When the wings are being built the ribs are to be painted with Poly-Fiber
epoxy varnish.
Ron
>
> Can anyone tell me how the wood in the wings (ribs) is treated to prevent
dry rot and insects from weakening them?
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: door gas pistons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
Have any Listers bought the door "gas springs", the devices that hold our
doors open? If so, what did you pay for them? Where did you buy them?
Thanks, Ron
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel spring |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Does anyone have an extra tailwheel partial spring or
full spring, or know a source for them? I have 2 full
steel springs now on a Maule tailwheel setup. I would
like a third partial spring for more support.
I have started testing at heavier weights and more aft
CG. Now my tailwheel verticle axis is about 20
degrees tilt, bottom aft. It is also getting closer
than I would like to the rudder. Since I have been
totally on grass, it hasn't given any trouble, so far.
But I expect it would shimmy on pavement. And I am
still 400 lbs under gross!
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Side air outlets: N210F update :-) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
OK Don,
I understand the "lots of work" phase. Thanks to
Michel V, pics of my scoop are on SportFlight. That
thing works, but isn't pretty yet. Lots of work still
to go there.
I have to reduce the side outlet pics to post them,
but they are pretty standard. Much like Howard's, but
a little smaller, a little lower and a little more
aft.
--- AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> Where are you Don S? Did you test your side vents
> yet?
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> No, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last
> night.
>
> My new fabricated vents are laying on top of the
> wing. I've cut and re-fiberglassed the cowl.
> Have a new radiator cowl about 70% laid out. Still
> have lots of work to do before installing the side
> vents and getting back in the air.
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
_______________________________
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Message 29
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Epoxy varnish is much better than regular varnish. If you use MEK
(PolyFiber) on regular varnish, you will remove it in short order.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: wings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
When the wings are being built the ribs are to be painted with Poly-Fiber
epoxy varnish.
Ron
>
> Can anyone tell me how the wood in the wings (ribs) is treated to prevent
dry rot and insects from weakening them?
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