Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:33 AM - I've noticed that www.skystar.com is now displaying an "Under Construction" (Rex & Jan Shaw)
2. 04:06 AM - Re: More on the Jabiru (Mike Chaney)
3. 04:21 AM - Re: Oil Tank Vent (Fox5flyer)
4. 04:34 AM - Re: Oil Tank Vent (Clem Nichols)
5. 04:53 AM - Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive (John Banes)
6. 06:56 AM - Plug wire replacement (David Savener)
7. 06:58 AM - SkyStar website (Crystal Loveland)
8. 07:07 AM - Re: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp (Bill Hammond)
9. 07:20 AM - Re: SkyStar website (Don Pearsall)
10. 07:59 AM - Re: Flaps - No Flaps (John Larsen)
11. 10:51 AM - Skystar Backorders (William J. Applegate)
12. 12:04 PM - Re: SkyStar website (Don) (Crystal Loveland)
13. 12:17 PM - Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV (W Duke)
14. 12:45 PM - Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV (flier)
15. 01:52 PM - Re: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive (NSI AERO)
16. 03:12 PM - Re: Flaps - No Flaps very interesting.. (Aerobatics@aol.com)
17. 03:18 PM - Re: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive (Leach Family)
18. 03:25 PM - Clinton Fly-in (off topic) (rdmac)
19. 04:30 PM - Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV (Grant Fluent)
20. 04:48 PM - Re: Plug wire replacement (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
21. 05:07 PM - Engine weight (off topic) (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
22. 06:53 PM - Pitot tube routing (RICHARD RABBERS)
23. 07:58 PM - Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV (Flier)
24. 08:38 PM - Re: what's up with Skystar's website (Stu Bryant)
25. 09:18 PM - Re: Oil Tank Vent (kurt schrader)
26. 09:29 PM - Re: Engine weight (off topic) (kurt schrader)
27. 11:06 PM - Re: Landings in 49 States (SOURDOSTAN@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | I've noticed that www.skystar.com is now displaying an "Under Construction" |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
I've noticed that www.skystar.com is now displaying an "Under Construction"
page. Anyone know what's going on with skystar?
Yes I'm getting worried all the things that one hears about that apparently
don't happen that they promise including the site and/or message board up
and running. They only had the message board back for a few days. Ed Downs
leaving then a couple of weeks ago I spoke to Frank Miller then next week he
was gone for the week. I wonder if he is back ? I haven't commented before
because I don't think that helps if they already have difficulties but now
it worries me that it might be beyond help which is a concern to us Kitfox
owners. Let's hope someone comes up with some good news ! I was hoping this
sports plane and pilot thing would help.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | More on the Jabiru |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
Jose
I have a model IV with the long wings. I had a 582 in my plane first and I
was a bit tail heavy. I had to add 5.5 pounds of lead shot up front to make
my weight and balance better. With the Jabiru my W&B is much better. I
really like the engine. I don't have anything bad to say about the 582. I
just became tired of the 582 running hotter than I liked(especially after
about 200 hours)and with the water cooled engine I often had the rotary
valve oil and the coolant mixing through the rotary valve seal.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jose M. Toro
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: More on the Jabiru
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Mike:
What model is you Kitfox? What kind of wings it has? What is your opinion
after switching engines?
Jose
Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@swoca.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney
My cruse increased from the mid 80's mph to the low 90's when I switched
from a 582 to the Jabiru 2200.
Mike Chaney
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Liles
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: More on the Jabiru
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles
Jose,
I think you'll get plenty of speed without major modifications to your
airplane. Just a few simple fairings at the wing and fuselage attach
points for the landing gear and lift struts will help, as will wheel
pants but even that is probably not a necessity. Raking the windshield
is a lot of work and I don't believe at all needed. There are too many
Mod IIs flying perfectly satisfactoraly without major surgery for me to
believe it is necessary. Also remember all modifications tend to add
weight and Weight is the enemy!
My 2 cents.
Jerry Liles
Jose M. Toro wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro"
>
>Jerry:
>
>It looks like, if I want to try the Jabiru, I will need to "byte the
bullet". If I don't get an appropriate speed with the Jabiru and the
current configuration, I will need to do some modifications to reduce drag.
The major of the modification could be to use short, speedster wings.
Another suggestion I received was to increase the slant of the windshield,
like in the Kitfox IV. I could also use wheelpants.
>
>Jose
>
>Jerry Liles wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles
>
>Jose, then I suspect you should do just fine with a Jabiru 2200.
>
>Jerry Liles
>
>Jose M. Toro wrote:
>
>
Jose M. Toro, P.E.
Kitfox II/582
"A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
---------------------------------
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Tank Vent |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Kurt, do you have a part number handy for that?
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Tank Vent
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Different engine, but I routed my vent to a 1 qt
> breather I bought from the Summit cataloge. Works
> well and no mess. You can of course use a smaller
> bottle, but the idea works. Others here taught it to
> me.
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- George Wells <georgewells@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>
> > My question is does anyone see a problem routing the
>
> > vent line to a small bottle attached to the
> > firewall or some other similar place that would be
> > emptied as required ?
> > Thanks -- George
>
>
> _______________________________
> Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
> http://vote.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Tank Vent |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Kurt:
My oil tank breather is vented to a large Miller High Life can. It works
quite well, and makes an interesting conversation piece.
Clem Nichols
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Tank Vent
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Different engine, but I routed my vent to a 1 qt
> breather I bought from the Summit cataloge. Works
> well and no mess. You can of course use a smaller
> bottle, but the idea works. Others here taught it to
> me.
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- George Wells <georgewells@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>
>> My question is does anyone see a problem routing the
>
>> vent line to a small bottle attached to the
>> firewall or some other similar place that would be
>> emptied as required ?
>> Thanks -- George
>
>
> _______________________________
> Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
> http://vote.yahoo.com
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
Can anyone share the initial prop settings for a 912S with a 3 blade Warp
Drive propeller? The instructions say to measure the angle at the blade tip
so this will probably be a very small number relative to vertical. The 22=B0
that I have seen posted in the past seems to be too high for a measurement
at the tip.
Thanks in advance.
John Banes
S-6 912S (nearing completion)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Plug wire replacement |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:55:13 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
I know I can replace the spark plug connector by unscrewing it from the plug wire
on my 532 or my 582.
Q? Can I replace the plug wire by unscrewing it from the coil? It looks to be
permanent. I tried unscrewing it from the coil but I didn't want to put too
much pressure on it!
The wire is for sale in catalogs. I must be able to replace it. Right???
Dave Savener
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Crystal Loveland" <crystalr@skystar.com>
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to you know that we are in the process of changing over
servers and trying to get our website revamped.
We are hoping to get the old site transfered over to the new server
today and hopefully the new site up sometime in early October.
Thank you,
Crystal Loveland
Director Of Operations
SkyStar Aircraft Corp.
email crystalr@skystar.com
please visit our website at www.skystar.com <http://www.skystar.com/>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp |
Drive
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Bill Hammond <kitfox@itsys3.com> Drive
I asked the same question about a year ago. My initial setup is a pitch of
25 degrees measured at the inboard edge of the nickel leading edge
protection. It was much easier to place the protractor accurately at this
point.
The 25 degree setting gave me full static RPM (5500+) on the 912S. Later,
I increased the angle to 28 degrees to improve cruise performance. At the
higher setting, I see 5200 RPM with full throttle on takeoff. Once I reach
cruise altitude, the nose is lowered and the RPM increases to 5500 RPM -
requiring the throttle to be retarded about an inch.
At 07:53 9/27/04 -0400, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
>
>Can anyone share the initial prop settings for a 912S with a 3 blade Warp
>Drive propeller? The instructions say to measure the angle at the blade tip
>so this will probably be a very small number relative to vertical. The 22=B0
>that I have seen posted in the past seems to be too high for a measurement
>at the tip.
>
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>John Banes
>
>
>S-6 912S (nearing completion)
>
>
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Crystal,
Thank you for clearing this up. As you know, a web site is essential for a
business now, and when yours was down, combined with other things,
prospective builders and owners alike begin to wonder. An "under
construction" image on your site is not very helpful or professional. It
would have been more business-like to have an explanation on the home page,
such as you just provided.
Thank you again for sharing, and please chime in here more.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crystal
Loveland
Subject: Kitfox-List: SkyStar website
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Crystal Loveland" <crystalr@skystar.com>
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to you know that we are in the process of changing over
servers and trying to get our website revamped.
We are hoping to get the old site transfered over to the new server
today and hopefully the new site up sometime in early October.
Thank you,
Crystal Loveland
Director Of Operations
SkyStar Aircraft Corp.
email crystalr@skystar.com
please visit our website at www.skystar.com <http://www.skystar.com/>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps - No Flaps |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Hi Jerry
They deploy 30 degrees.
Jerry Liles wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
>
>John,
>What is the deployment limit for the Airdale?
>
>John Larsen wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
>>
>>After a many year and many Avid-Kfox flights I now use full flaperons on
>>final which gives a much slower touchdown speed and then shove the
>>handle forward when the mains touch. This plants the tail and keeps the
>>plane from vacillating between float and touchdown. I use it on my
>>Airdale, and found it works well with the Series 4-7 Foxes I have flown.
>>Works very well with nose heavy conditions. Full flaperons will give you
>>some adverse yaw problems with the Avids and Series 1-3 Foxes.
>>
>>Jerry Liles wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
>>>
>>>I've limited Tootie Mae to 10 deg flaps and routinely use it to shorten
>>>takeoff and landing roll. That gives a useful increase in lift and
>>>decreases stall speed a bit without getting into the poor control
>>>response area. It doesn't, however, add a whole lot of additional
>>>drag. Foxes and Avids tend to begin to lose aileron effectiveness at
>>>low speeds with more deployment and there can be a problem with control
>>>with excess deployment, especially beyond 15deg . 10 degrees works for
>>>me and I use it all the time. If I need to get down in a hurry a side
>>>slip can't be beat, and it's a lot more fun than just jerking on a
>>>handle. Many pilots don't or won't use flaps because of the control
>>>issue, but I bet they would if they just limited deployment.
>>>Jerry Liles
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Skystar Backorders |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "William J. Applegate" <bigapple@gct21.net>
Hi Troops,
Just to let you all know that I received the last of the back-ordered
items for my Kitfox model 7: wheels, brakes and axles. After two years,
what a relief!
Apples............Tucson, AZ
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: SkyStar website (Don) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Crystal Loveland" <crystalr@skystar.com>
Thank you for your insight and the next time the site is down I will try
to put a little more information
on the page instead of just "under construction"
also I will try to get information posted here just a little bit sooner.
Keep an eye out for our new website that will be coming hopefully around
the middle of
October and if any of you have suggestions I am open to hearing them.
Thanks,
Crystal Loveland
Director Of Operations
SkyStar Aircraft Corp.
phone 208-454-2444 fax 208-454-6464
email crystalr@skystar.com
please visit our website at www.skystar.com <http://www.skystar.com/>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
Lynn,
As far as the wing tips go, I would do just as you suggested. Cover then rivet
the attach strips. Then use a finishing tape to cover the rivets and don't
worry about the chafing on the finishing tape.
Maxwell S6/TD/IO 240
Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
I have a concern about installing the false bottom ribs on my IV, in
the bay that contains the lift strut brackets. I can see putting in the
outside two false ribs in this bay, but the middle one looks like it
would interfere with the lift strut bracket or possibly the fabric
reinforcement plate. How did you folks handle this area?
Also, and this one's a little hard to explain.... in thinking ahead to
covering the tip rib when using the removable wingtip option, how do
you deal with fastening the fabric to the tip rib?
If I install the wingtip screw-backing material under the outer portion
of the capstrip, before covering with fabric, the fabric will have to
be wrapped over this aluminum strip and be Poly-tak'ed to the
underside. That leaves a small triangle of space under the fabric where
it goes from the edge of the capstrip down and out to the edge of the
aluminum backing strip. When installing the wingtip later, this
triangle of unsupported fabric will then be forced down by the edge of
the wingtip and be under chafing pressure until it wears through.
I envision drilling and clecoing the backing material to the underside
of the tip rib capstrip, prior to covering (and fitting the flaperon
hinge brackets), then when covering is complete (and fabric is cemented
to underside of the capstrip), I can then rivet the backing material in
place and install wingtips and avoid a chafing problem. I suppose I
could lay down the finishing tape over the edge of the capstrip and
onto the backing strip at this point, further reinforcing that area.
Am I being too paranoid over this chafing problem? And does anyone have
a different/better idea?
Lynn
---------------------------------
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
Lynn,
I installed the backing strip then covered over it
being careful to iron down the fabric and reinforcing
tape down across the edge of the capstrip (where the
flange is created for the wingtip. It didn't leave
any gap. 8 yrs and 350hrs later with no prob.
Regards,
Ted IV-1200
--- Original Message ---
From: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: False ribs/tip rib
covering...IV
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke
<n981ms@yahoo.com>
>
>Lynn,
> As far as the wing tips go, I would do just as you
suggested. Cover then rivet the attach strips. Then
use a finishing tape to cover the rivets and don't
worry about the chafing on the finishing tape.
>
>Maxwell S6/TD/IO 240
>
>Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
>
>I have a concern about installing the false bottom
ribs on my IV, in
>the bay that contains the lift strut brackets. I can
see putting in the
>outside two false ribs in this bay, but the middle
one looks like it
>would interfere with the lift strut bracket or
possibly the fabric
>reinforcement plate. How did you folks handle this
area?
>
>Also, and this one's a little hard to explain.... in
thinking ahead to
>covering the tip rib when using the removable
wingtip option, how do
>you deal with fastening the fabric to the tip rib?
>If I install the wingtip screw-backing material
under the outer portion
>of the capstrip, before covering with fabric, the
fabric will have to
>be wrapped over this aluminum strip and be Poly-
tak'ed to the
>underside. That leaves a small triangle of space
under the fabric where
>it goes from the edge of the capstrip down and out
to the edge of the
>aluminum backing strip. When installing the wingtip
later, this
>triangle of unsupported fabric will then be forced
down by the edge of
>the wingtip and be under chafing pressure until it
wears through.
>I envision drilling and clecoing the backing
material to the underside
>of the tip rib capstrip, prior to covering (and
fitting the flaperon
>hinge brackets), then when covering is complete (and
fabric is cemented
>to underside of the capstrip), I can then rivet the
backing material in
>place and install wingtips and avoid a chafing
problem. I suppose I
>could lay down the finishing tape over the edge of
the capstrip and
>onto the backing strip at this point, further
reinforcing that area.
>Am I being too paranoid over this chafing problem?
And does anyone have
>a different/better idea?
>
>Lynn
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "NSI AERO" <info@nsiaero.com>
Hi John,
When setting the pitch stop on the NSI CAP 140 with Warp Drive blades (73"
diameter, full width cord, no tapered tips) for the Rotax 912S Kitfox, we
set max pitch (Measured 1" in from the tip) at 17.5 degrees (4500 RPM), and
fine pitch 11. (6000 RPM)
Lance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Banes
Subject: Kitfox-List: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
Can anyone share the initial prop settings for a 912S with a 3 blade Warp
Drive propeller? The instructions say to measure the angle at the blade tip
so this will probably be a very small number relative to vertical. The
22=B0 that I have seen posted in the past seems to be too high for a
measurement at the tip.
Thanks in advance.
John Banes
S-6 912S (nearing completion)
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps - No Flaps very interesting.. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
Well... I have a short strip and must STOL .... less than 800 feet total
When light its a piece , on a hot day, calm, at gross weight ( KF2 950lbs) I
still dont use flaps other than some at time of rotation during take off.
Landing, I always slip. Its gives a better view, getting out of a slip
doesnt "fall" as if you were using flaps and I ailways have my full aileron
effectiveness.
Yes, it takes some practice.
For me, it seems the best route
Dave
KF2 582
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Leach Family" <leach@wk.planet.gen.nz>
Hi John
I have the 80hp 912 with a 70" 3 blade Warp Drive in an Avid. At first I
set the pitch at 10 degrees at the tip of the prop but could only get 4800
static RPM . I reduced the pitch to 9 degrees and now get 5200 static and
5600 RPM in a full power climb. The 912S will be different but these
figures might be some help.
Regards
Brian Leach
New Zealand
----- Original Message -----
From: John Banes <JohnBanes@adelphia.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
>
> Can anyone share the initial prop settings for a 912S with a 3 blade Warp
> Drive propeller? The instructions say to measure the angle at the blade
tip
> so this will probably be a very small number relative to vertical. The
22=B0
> that I have seen posted in the past seems to be too high for a measurement
> at the tip.
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> John Banes
>
>
> S-6 912S (nearing completion)
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Clinton Fly-in (off topic) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "rdmac" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Sid or Gary,
Please contact me off list, the e-mail address you gave me Saturday
apparently does not work.
thanks....................Roger Mac
rdmac@swbell.net
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Grant Fluent <gjfpilot@yahoo.com>
Ted,
Did you mean "finishing tape" below instead of
"reinforcing tape"? I only used reinforcing tape on
the ribs that I rib stitched.
Grant Fluent
Newcastle, NE
Classic IV 912S
--- flier <FLIER@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier"
> <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I installed the backing strip then covered over it
> being careful to iron down the fabric and
> reinforcing
> tape down across the edge of the capstrip (where the
>
> flange is created for the wingtip. It didn't leave
> any gap. 8 yrs and 350hrs later with no prob.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted IV-1200
>
>
> --- Original Message ---
> From: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: False ribs/tip rib
> covering...IV
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke
> <n981ms@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Lynn,
> > As far as the wing tips go, I would do just as
> you
> suggested. Cover then rivet the attach strips.
> Then
> use a finishing tape to cover the rivets and don't
> worry about the chafing on the finishing tape.
> >
> >Maxwell S6/TD/IO 240
> >
> >Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
> >
> >I have a concern about installing the false bottom
> ribs on my IV, in
> >the bay that contains the lift strut brackets. I
> can
> see putting in the
> >outside two false ribs in this bay, but the middle
> one looks like it
> >would interfere with the lift strut bracket or
> possibly the fabric
> >reinforcement plate. How did you folks handle this
> area?
> >
> >Also, and this one's a little hard to explain....
> in
> thinking ahead to
> >covering the tip rib when using the removable
> wingtip option, how do
> >you deal with fastening the fabric to the tip rib?
> >If I install the wingtip screw-backing material
> under the outer portion
> >of the capstrip, before covering with fabric, the
> fabric will have to
> >be wrapped over this aluminum strip and be Poly-
> tak'ed to the
> >underside. That leaves a small triangle of space
> under the fabric where
> >it goes from the edge of the capstrip down and out
> to the edge of the
> >aluminum backing strip. When installing the wingtip
>
> later, this
> >triangle of unsupported fabric will then be forced
> down by the edge of
> >the wingtip and be under chafing pressure until it
> wears through.
> >I envision drilling and clecoing the backing
> material to the underside
> >of the tip rib capstrip, prior to covering (and
> fitting the flaperon
> >hinge brackets), then when covering is complete
> (and
> fabric is cemented
> >to underside of the capstrip), I can then rivet the
>
> backing material in
> >place and install wingtips and avoid a chafing
> problem. I suppose I
> >could lay down the finishing tape over the edge of
> the capstrip and
> >onto the backing strip at this point, further
> reinforcing that area.
> >Am I being too paranoid over this chafing problem?
> And does anyone have
> >a different/better idea?
> >
> >Lynn
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
> >
> >
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
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> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> list
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Plug wire replacement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 9/27/04 6:57:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
david_savener@msn.com writes:
>
> Q? Can I replace the plug wire by unscrewing it from the coil? It looks to
> be permanent. I tried unscrewing it from the coil but I didn't want to put
> too much pressure on it!
>
> The wire is for sale in catalogs. I must be able to replace it. Right???
>
> Dave Savener
>
Dave,
Been there and done that. The wires at the plugs screw in. The wires at
the coil end just pushes in. The center wire in the coil is not threaded
like on the plug ends. You must use a locktite type adhesive (forget the
name/number) for the coil end. That is why you are seeing a resistance unscrewing
the coil end of the wire. They are glued in. I used a small jewelers screw
driver and forced it all around the edges to loosen the glue. Take your time and
work them out slowly to prevent breaking the center coil wire.
I bought Rotax replacement plug wire from Spruce and received something
that had very little copper compared to the original Rotax wire. Re-ordered
from CPS and got the actual replacement wire (same amount of copper).
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 21
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| Subject: | Engine weight (off topic) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
I think my helicopter boss just got bit by the biggest lie going by engine
manufactures. We just received a 2 stroke 4 cylinder fuel injected 105 HP
Hirth that was reported (by Hirth) as weighting 90#. I had to repackage the
engine so I could forward it to Australia. Well, the total box weighed in at 175#.
I had to reduce weight to get it under 150# for UPS so split the shipment
into two boxes. I removed everything (mufflers, headers, pumps, etc.) until I
had engine only with reduction gear attached. Engine and reduction gear was
152# (less cardboard box at about 10#) left the engine alone was 142#. She was
amazed that the little 90# engine was so fat. Oh well, back to the drawing
board for a light weight 105HP engine.
Even the Rotax 914 turbo won't give the weight to HP needed for these
Sportcopters.
Anybody have a 115 HP engine that weighs 115# ?????????
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Pitot tube routing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: RICHARD RABBERS <rira1950@yahoo.com>
Hello,
I'm new here and also with my Kitfox Model 1 just purchased. I found the pitot
tube kinked at the wing hinge. I wonder how kinking can be avoided or what the
best set up might be.
Richard
---------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | False ribs/tip rib covering...IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Right Grant. It was a finish tape instead of reinforcing. My error.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Grant Fluent
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: False ribs/tip rib covering...IV
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Grant Fluent <gjfpilot@yahoo.com>
Ted,
Did you mean "finishing tape" below instead of
"reinforcing tape"? I only used reinforcing tape on
the ribs that I rib stitched.
Grant Fluent
Newcastle, NE
Classic IV 912S
--- flier <FLIER@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier"
> <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I installed the backing strip then covered over it
> being careful to iron down the fabric and
> reinforcing
> tape down across the edge of the capstrip (where the
>
> flange is created for the wingtip. It didn't leave
> any gap. 8 yrs and 350hrs later with no prob.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted IV-1200
>
>
> --- Original Message ---
> From: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: False ribs/tip rib
> covering...IV
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke
> <n981ms@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Lynn,
> > As far as the wing tips go, I would do just as
> you
> suggested. Cover then rivet the attach strips.
> Then
> use a finishing tape to cover the rivets and don't
> worry about the chafing on the finishing tape.
> >
> >Maxwell S6/TD/IO 240
> >
> >Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
> >
> >I have a concern about installing the false bottom
> ribs on my IV, in
> >the bay that contains the lift strut brackets. I
> can
> see putting in the
> >outside two false ribs in this bay, but the middle
> one looks like it
> >would interfere with the lift strut bracket or
> possibly the fabric
> >reinforcement plate. How did you folks handle this
> area?
> >
> >Also, and this one's a little hard to explain....
> in
> thinking ahead to
> >covering the tip rib when using the removable
> wingtip option, how do
> >you deal with fastening the fabric to the tip rib?
> >If I install the wingtip screw-backing material
> under the outer portion
> >of the capstrip, before covering with fabric, the
> fabric will have to
> >be wrapped over this aluminum strip and be Poly-
> tak'ed to the
> >underside. That leaves a small triangle of space
> under the fabric where
> >it goes from the edge of the capstrip down and out
> to the edge of the
> >aluminum backing strip. When installing the wingtip
>
> later, this
> >triangle of unsupported fabric will then be forced
> down by the edge of
> >the wingtip and be under chafing pressure until it
> wears through.
> >I envision drilling and clecoing the backing
> material to the underside
> >of the tip rib capstrip, prior to covering (and
> fitting the flaperon
> >hinge brackets), then when covering is complete
> (and
> fabric is cemented
> >to underside of the capstrip), I can then rivet the
>
> backing material in
> >place and install wingtips and avoid a chafing
> problem. I suppose I
> >could lay down the finishing tape over the edge of
> the capstrip and
> >onto the backing strip at this point, further
> reinforcing that area.
> >Am I being too paranoid over this chafing problem?
> And does anyone have
> >a different/better idea?
> >
> >Lynn
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
> >
> >
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> list
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >_-
>
======================================================
> ==================
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
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>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | RE: what's up with Skystar's website |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Stu Bryant" <s.j.bryant@sbcglobal.net>
While I have no clue what is going on at Skystar, it is a fact that they
posted a notice inside their website a few weeks ago that they were starting
to do some renovating on it. It is no surprise- they did give ample warning.
I'm not worried. Besides, with employees holding so much stock its not
likely they would have anything ultra-drastic like a major cave-in
(Employee-owners are nothing if not motivated), if that is what anyone is
thinking. They still have a lot of momentum in the industry- more than the
majority of kit makers. We could speculate that (worst case scenario?) they
might be looking for additional capital to help expand their production to
further ensure a strong market share given the LSA victory we just won. Or
maybe they're trying to find a way to buy out Ed? Who knows? I guess we can
speculate all day long but it won't change anything. Still, I confess that
I'm curious also. But all that would probably have nothing to do with the
website. Although it IS true that working on the new one in parallel while
the old one is still up is a much better way to go, as Don said.
Time will tell.
On a different topic: Stop it with all the talk of slipping on approach. It
has been a long while now since I've been able to do that, and will likely
be a good while before I'll be able to get back in the saddle again, and it
is killing me to hear this. Man, I'd love to just go practice VFR approaches
for a couple hours. Slips are SO fun in a Cessna. Can't wait to try it in a
ragwing!
Stu Bryant
Do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Tank Vent |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sure Darrel,
SUM-G1506 = RED, -1505 = Blue, -1504 = Black.
I changed out the Summit fittings to more substantial
fittings and ran 1/2" ID hose to the breather. I then
capped off the oil return line to the oil pan, which
is were I got the back pressure blowing oil out my
origional air/oil seperator. In the end, the whole
thing weighed slightly less than the origional air/oil
seperator. I do have to drain it occasionally though.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
> Kurt, do you have a part number handy for that?
> Darrel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Tank Vent
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> >
> > Different engine, but I routed my vent to a 1 qt
> > breather I bought from the Summit cataloge. Works
> > well and no mess. You can of course use a smaller
> > bottle, but the idea works. Others here taught it
> > to me.
> >
> > Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
__________________________________
Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Engine weight (off topic) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Don,
I bet it was graded on a curve for the HP rating too.
How about one of those 100 HP turbine engines? Burns
17 gal per hour, but then the engine is light.
Kurt S.
--- AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> I think my helicopter boss just got bit by the
> biggest lie going by engine
> manufactures. We just received a 2 stroke 4
> cylinder fuel injected 105 HP
> Hirth that was reported (by Hirth) as weighting 90#.
> I had to repackage the
> engine so I could forward it to Australia. Well,
> the total box weighed in at 175#.
> I had to reduce weight to get it under 150# for UPS
> so split the shipment
> into two boxes. I removed everything (mufflers,
> headers, pumps, etc.) until I
> had engine only with reduction gear attached.
> Engine and reduction gear was
> 152# (less cardboard box at about 10#) left the
> engine alone was 142#. She was
> amazed that the little 90# engine was so fat. Oh
> well, back to the drawing
> board for a light weight 105HP engine.
> Even the Rotax 914 turbo won't give the weight
> to HP needed for these
> Sportcopters.
> Anybody have a 115 HP engine that weighs 115#
> ?????????
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Landings in 49 States |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: SOURDOSTAN@aol.com
Kurt-
I just came across this message from you and I don't think I ever answered
you. Sorry!!
You remembered my gear collapse and I hit my prop in Alaska, but other than
those two incidences, the airplane and engine have been behaving flawlessly. I
sure can't say enough good about the Kitfox and the Rotax engine. What a
great combination!!
I, too, think about the good time we had at Sun'n'Fun last year. Hope to see
you again soon. How about going to Alaska next summer???
I keep up with you through your postings. Looks like you're enjoying your
plane and working out some bugs, and doing some experimenting. Keep up the
sharing with us - always something to learn from what you do.
All for now. Hope all is well with you.
Regards,
Stan
N16KC "Columbine"
Kitfox Model IV Speedster 912ul
Over 765 hours
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