Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:07 AM - Re: Paint - Need to clear coat (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
2. 04:28 AM - SV: Paint (Michel Verheughe)
3. 05:42 AM - Re: Why use VG's, was:VG's and the testing process (Clifford Begnaud)
4. 06:16 AM - Re: Paint - Need to clear coat (flier)
5. 11:51 AM - Skyfox? (Michel Verheughe)
6. 12:19 PM - Re: Skyfox? (Jose M. Toro)
7. 02:34 PM - Re: Ask it again, Lynn...re flaperon horns (Fox5flyer)
8. 02:35 PM - Re: Skyfox? (Michel Verheughe)
9. 05:05 PM - Re: Paint - Need to clear coat (Ceashman@aol.com)
10. 05:27 PM - Re: Paint - Need to clear coat (Ceashman@aol.com)
11. 05:34 PM - Oil Pressure Mistery on 912 UL (Jimmie Blackwell)
12. 05:44 PM - Re: SV: Paint (Ceashman@aol.com)
13. 06:21 PM - Rotax 582 ers!! (Gill Levesque)
14. 06:29 PM - Barrel Rolls (Fox5flyer)
15. 06:43 PM - Re: Skyfox? (PEDRO PEREZ)
16. 07:08 PM - Re: Oil Pressure Mistery on 912 UL (Flier)
17. 07:09 PM - Re: Rotax 582 ers!! (Bruce Harrington)
18. 07:16 PM - What are the requirments for a pilots lic. in Europe? (Jay Fabian)
19. 08:10 PM - Re: Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive (John Banes)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Paint - Need to clear coat |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
<< ->I used a poly system with polytone.
-->If i read your email correctly putting clear over poly tone might flake
-->but if i put a eurothane on top of what i have and then a clear would
-->that work for a while? >>
Gared,
I missed most of this thread....
I washed my entire plane with 1500 grit wet/dry paper using warm soapy
water. It will clean the Poly Tone and leave it shiney"er" than before. Also
removes any overspray or bug wings from the original paint job. Just wash
with light pressure especially on the pinked edges. Looks better than new when
finished. Might want to test on the bottom first.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
> The fabric umbrella turned brown and fell apart first.
Oops! And with the prevailing westerlies, all that acid rain is moving toward Norway,
right? :-)
> I am not sure wax would help that much more in that kind of pollution.
Well, maybe not but I can tell you that the difference between a waxed and not
waxed glassfiber hull is visible after a very short time, Kurt. You can also get
silicone wax that will repell all water, acid or not. I never dared to use
that type of wax because I was told that if I use silicone, I can forget to ever
again repaint my hull.
... not an easy decision.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Why use VG's, was:VG's and the testing process |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Kurt,
I've seen a few planes with the taller gear. I think for the type of
mounting system used that they were probably too tall to stand up to the
shear forces that could be encountered on rough fields, beaches, river banks
etc. In fact that is a concern with the current spring gear. Ideally, the
landing gear should be made like those on a supercub with widely spaced
mounting points on the fuselage. This would stand up to shear forces much
better. Of course another option may be to put a brace from the lower part
of the spring gear to the point where the wing strut attaches at the
fuselage. It would need to be able to pivot with the gear movement, but this
would strengthen the gear and possibly prevent it from being sheared off if
an obstacle on the ground was hit.
Seems you've discovered the key to landing short; "land slow"! You are not
cheating at all by dumping flaps, that's my favorite technique, especially
if its windy. This method really plants the plane on the ground, making it
less likely to get airborne again.
If you are not yet comfortable making really slow approaches, just hold the
plane off in ground effect and make it fully stall. You should be able to
tell if you have enough elevator to plant the tailwheel every time. Also,
make sure your engine is at a very slow idle when landing. If the idle is
just a little too fast, it will still be providing thrust and greatly
lengthen your landings. I have experienced this first hand on several 912
powered kitfoxes (including our first one).
You are using the NSI Subaru with CAP prop and Warp drive blades, correct? I
assume that you can go to a very fine pitch so that the prop will provide
lots of drag? Oh wait, I just remembered that the NSI gearbox freewheels at
idle, right? If so, that should allow you to set fine pitch and let the prop
act as an airbrake. Make sure you take advantage of that feature on landing,
it will allow you to make steep approaches to very short landings.
Keep us informed of your progress, I look forward to hearing how your
testing goes, especially as it relates to short field ops.
Best Regards,
Cliff
>
> Cliff,
>
> Your goals and mine are almost exactly the same, so my
> structural intentions with the plane are a match too.
> I also have the grove gear with 6x6 tires and the
> Maule TW. 6x8 tires are standing by.
>
> The early Grove gear was much taller. Melnik's plane
> had it at first and I think Tom Anderson's too. It
> probably was a better match for short fields, but
> you'd have to ask them.
>
> I have not gained the skill level yet to do good short
> field landings power off, let alone power on. I enjoy
> slow flight at altitude, but have not risked it yet
> down low. It is an old helo driver flaw of mine.
> Fear of fixed wings slow and low. Something I have to
> train myself to overcome.
>
> I do 3 point landings and note that it is often not
> quite stalled yet, so getting a bounce is still easy.
> Planting the tail sometimes works, but just a few
> knots faster or a bump in the grass and I'm up again.
> I have been cheating lately by using 1/2 flaps and
> dumping them on landing.
>
> More by luck than intent, I find that landing
> tailwheel first power off doesn't drop me on the mains
> that badly. Power on may be a different story. I got
> a lot of training to do before I get that good though.
>
> I would like to have the VG speed reduction to use, if
> needed, so I'll test them some more later.
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Kurt,
> > I am really enjoying your reporting on the VG tests.
> > I want to add them to
> > our plane but have not done so yet for reasons I
> > will explain below.
> > For me, the primary reason for owning a Kitfox is
> > for "off airport" ops and
> > general short field stuff. So anything I do to the
> > airplane should allow me
> > land and takeoff shorter, get to the short field
> > faster, haul more stuff to
> > the short field or do these things with less risk of
> > damage or injury.
> > Having a lower stall speed would in theory allow you
> > to land and takeoff
> > shorter. But there may be some practical limitations
> > imposed by your
> > airplane. So consider the following:
> > During your flight testing, have you done many short
> > field, 3 point
> > landings? If so, have you noticed that you can land
> > the plane "tailwheel
> > first" with ease without the VG's installed? If you
> > are able to do so,
> > consider what would happen if VG's allowed the plane
> > to stall at a higher
> > angle of attack.
> > On our Kitfox, when I do a full stall, 3 point
> > landing, the tailwheel
> > touches down first while the mains are still at
> > least 1 foot above the
> > ground (maybe more). The plane is configured with
> > 600 x 6 tires and a Maule
> > 8" pneumatic tailwheel. If I add VG's and increase
> > the angle of attack at
> > the stall, with or without a change to the IAS, the
> > mains will likely be
> > 18"-24" above ground at the stall. And this is doing
> > full stall landings
> > with power at idle, imagine what happens when I do
> > it with power!
> >
> > This is one of the reasons that Alaska bush pilots
> > install extended landing
> > gear. It allows the plane to stall in a "3 point"
> > attitude without the
> > tailwheel making such violent contact with ground.
> > Also consider that these
> > bush pilots don't even consider it a short field
> > landing unless it's done
> > with lots of power, with the plane landing at a very
> > high angle. As you can
> > imagine, if you are landing on the tailwheel first,
> > it won't be long before
> > damage is done to the tail end of the plane.
> >
> > I plan to change to 8.50 X 6 tires, and install the
> > small homebuilders
> > special tailwheel. This will give the tailwheel a
> > little more room. But I
> > suspect that I will still be able to land tailwheel
> > first.
> >
> > I have talked with numerous people about this issue,
> > and while the kitfox is
> > a great airplane, there are some design flaws that
> > keep it from achieving
> > it's full potential as a bush plane. After all, the
> > wing on the model 5 was
> > really designed for the model 4 at a gross weight of
> > 1050 lbs. We are asking
> > it to do bush work at 1550 lbs, that is 57% more
> > weight than the plane for
> > which the wing was designed!!!!!!
> >
> > Ideally, for bush flying, the model 5 needs a higher
> > lift wing, the wing
> > needs to be set at a higher angle relative to the
> > fuselage and it could use
> > a little longer landing gear (among other things).
> >
> > Despite these shortcomings, I still love our kitfox
> > and will likely add Vs.
> > for the safety factor. If they soften the stall and
> > prevent it from dropping
> > a wing in a deep stall, then that would be
> > worthwhile because I so often fly
> > the plane right on the edge of stall. Especially
> > when doing short field ops.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Cliff Begnaud
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Paint - Need to clear coat |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
Be careful when applying new Polytone over old
Polytone to ensure the OLD Polytone is loosened
well. Use plenty of rejuvenator on the old and
plenty of reducer in the new. Otherwise the new
Polytone will flash off over the old and never bond.
Been there...done it...
--- Original Message ---
From: Ceashman@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Paint - Need to clear coat
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds
<jareds@verizon.net>
>
>-->I used a poly system with polytone.
>-->If i read your email correctly putting clear over
poly tone might flake
>-->but if i put a eurothane on top of what i have
and then a clear would
>-->that work for a while?
>
>Hi Jared.
>I am not saying you cannot use clear polyurethane
enamel over the top of Poly
>Tone.
>You can risk the clear peeling off but there are
some things you can do to
>prevent or greatly reduce the risk.
>For example, I used the Poly Fiber Polybrush and
Poly Spray. Both of which
>are air drying materials (can be dissolved with
thinner). But after the silver
>coat, Poly Spray (that you must apply to protect
from UV light, and I think to
>be legal) I left the silver for a good week before
sanding and applying a
>polyurethane sealer on top. No adhesion problems.
>
>So' If what you are saying is that you must re color
because of staining. I
>would apply one coat of color, Use Aerothane of the
same white color, do not
>change the color you may have coverage problems. And
then use a polyurethane
>clear coat.
>Because the existing finish is relatively old and
the color is the same you
>do not risk the solvent penetrating into the
existing finish. This is the main
>contributor to the clear coat peeling problem.
>Hope this helps.
>
>One other thing to consider. Why not sand your
airplane and re apply Poly
>Tone. This is the finish you were looking for
originally (it is cool!)
>Cheers Eric.
>
>
>_-
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Forums.
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Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Guys,
If you want to do business on the internet, you have to answer customers. I
never got an answer from Aircraft Spruce regarding their tailwheel and now, I
don't get an answer from Skyfox regarding their cowling.
I would then take my business elsewhere but the market is not that big. My
question is then: Before I decide for something else, do any of you know how I
can get Australian Skyfox to answer if they have a cowling I can use on my
model 3, when I install the Jabiru?
Any advise would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
Michel
do not archive
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Michel:
You can order a Skyfox cowling through Suncoast (www.suncoastjabiru.com), the Jabiru dealer in Florida. I intend to order in the next few days a complete package including engine (2200), engine mount for my Kitfox II, Skyfox cowling, gauges, and everything else you need to do this conversion. The Skyfox cowling is supposed to fit Kitfox II and III without modifications. It does require modification for the Model IV.
Jose
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
Guys,
If you want to do business on the internet, you have to answer customers. I
never got an answer from Aircraft Spruce regarding their tailwheel and now, I
don't get an answer from Skyfox regarding their cowling.
I would then take my business elsewhere but the market is not that big. My
question is then: Before I decide for something else, do any of you know how I
can get Australian Skyfox to answer if they have a cowling I can use on my
model 3, when I install the Jabiru?
Any advise would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
Michel
do not archive
Jose M. Toro, P.E.
Kitfox II/582
"A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
---------------------------------
vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ask it again, Lynn...re flaperon horns |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I used 2216 on mine. It just seemed the right thing to do.
Darrel
>
> Lynn,
>
> Sorry for the non answer earlier. I did give it some thought and my
> manual - March 03 - also didn't mention the adhesive.
>
> I recall a couple of posts describing a looseness in the riveted
connection
> after time. Maybe it was reports like this to the factory that prompted a
> change in the assembly. The only disadvantage in using the adhesive might
> be if disassembly is desired at a future date. I would think that heating
> the adhesive might soften it enough that it would come apart after
drilling
> out the rivets.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Ask it again, Lynn...re flaperon horns
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> >
> > I never got a reply to my recent question, so I'll post it again....(it
> > probably slipped through the cracks with all the VG talk recently).
> >
> > >
> > > I was just looking at a later assembly manual (Aug. '03) for the
> > > Classic IV, and it tells you to "apply structural adhesive to the end
> > > rib flanges...", etc., when installing the flap horn, while the
> > > original doesn't mention the application of the structural adhesive
> > > during this step....what did you folks do? Thinking about it now
(after
> > > I had installed mine without any adhesive), I realize that there might
> > > be a "dissimilar metals in contact" problem here...whaddaya think?
> > > Lynn
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
"Jose M. Toro" wrote:
> You can order a Skyfox cowling through Suncoast (www.suncoastjabiru.com),
Thanks Jose, my email to them is already on its way.
That's right, you are also in the process of installing a Jabiru! Listen, do
you want to come over to Norway a few weeks so we can work together on our
planes? Oh, bring your woollies, Norway is much colder than Puerto Rico ... On
second thoughts, I'd rather come to Puerto Rico for a few weeks. Got a spare
room, mate? :-)
Well, I guess we'll have to compare notes via the internet. Still, isn't the
internet great? Here I am, chatting with people around the world, wasting
bandwidth and your time ... Sinatra was wrong, it isn't NY the city that never
sleeps, it is the internet! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Paint - Need to clear coat |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
FWIIW,
Why not just spray on a coat of same color PolyFiber Aerothane and leave
it at that? That is what I did after my Polytone stained from "bugjuice".
Aerothane is shiny and doesn't need clearcoat.That was a year ago and it
looks like it did when I put it on.
--> Larry Huntley,Kitfox
Larry.
I kind of agree with you, this is possible and there will be much better
durability than with Poly Tone.
Also, Aerothane is much more glossy than Poly Tone.
But if I believe what Jared is saying, he has a problem with acid rain.
If you look at the automobile industry, everything this last 10 to 15 years
has been with a clear coat. This protects the color from Ultra Violet light
(that will fade the color and break down the very small surface protection of the
pigment color of a mono coat. If nitric acid from the acid rain lands on the
surface, this can easily eat into the small protection of the mono coat)
The clear coat on the other hand has UV screener. A kind of sun blocker built
in and of course the pigment color is well below the surface therefore acid
rain will not attack as severely as a non protected color.
Even so, I am not saying that acid rain will not hurt the surface of the
clear. Original equipment manufacturers, car makers, have suffered this for a long
time. Especially on vehicles near densely populated areas and industrial
areas. It is a kind of "fact of life"
Greetings Eric.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Paint - Need to clear coat |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
-->Gared,
I missed most of this thread....
I washed my entire plane with 1500 grit wet/dry paper using warm soapy
water. It will clean the Poly Tone and leave it shiney"er" than before.
Also
removes any overspray or bug wings from the original paint job. Just wash
with light pressure especially on the pinked edges. Looks better than new
when
finished. Might want to test on the bottom first.
-->Don Smythe
Hi Don.
I agree that if you have an existing finish like Poly Tone, and it is
weathered (UV) leaving it very low gloss and smudged. That a "exfoliating" (got
that
from the TV) process will bring back the richness of the color because it
removes the old faded stuff, and using P1500 grit paper will bring a good sheen.
The problem. The paint when new, each individual pigment particle was
encapsulated with resin. The protection to the pigment this resin provided was
or is
based on the quality of the resin. (Aerothane being superior to Poly Tone, but
these are nothing compared to clear coating)
Over time, outside, exposed to the environment the resin starts to break down
or this protective layer can be easily removed by sanding or even
compounding. You will notice the color on the compounding rag or in the water if
sanding.
This means there is no longer a protective film protecting the pigment and
now the pigment will quickly deteriorate if left outside to harsh weather or
chemical influences.
So if you compound the Poly Tone say after the first 3 years of it's life.
Then you will be compounding it much more frequently, say 4 months if left
outside.
That is why aluminum aircraft are left outside and aluminum aircraft do not
have Poly Tone applied on them.
Eric Ashman. Classic IV Atlanta
Message 11
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| Subject: | Oil Pressure Mistery on 912 UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Recently I experienced an oil pressure problem indication. I am concerned about
the oil pressure indication showing on my Westach quad gauge. At low rpm, 2000-2500
my oil pressure gauge fluctuates wildly from 60 to 100 psi. Bringing
the rpm up to over 3000 rpm settles the gauge down to between 60 and 80 psi.
I am trying to determine whether I have an oil sensor problem. electrical problem
or an actual oil pressure problem.
Talking to Lockwood they seem to think that I have an oil pressures sensor problem.
A new sensor for the Westach is expensive. Talking to another Rotax repair
facility' they suggest also that it is probably an oil pressure sensor problem,
but it may be a rubber oil line that is collapsing.
Wonder if any of you had these problems.
Before I get airborne again I plan to replace all the oil lines just be safe.
Hopefully someone can tell me what size and type hoses to buy to replace the
oil lines.
Thanks
Jimmie
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
Oops! And with the prevailing wastrels, all that acid rain is moving toward
Norway, right? :-)
> I am not sure wax would help that much more in that kind of pollution.
Well, maybe not but I can tell you that the difference between a waxed and
not waxed glassfiber hull is visible after a very short time, Kurt. You can also
get silicone wax that will repell all water, acid or not. I never dared to
use that type of wax because I was told that if I use silicone, I can forget to
ever again repaint my hull.
... not an easy decision.
Cheers,
-->Michel
..............................................................................
...................................................
Michel.
You are very correct. Wax will help to protect an unclearcoated finish from
the harsh effects of the environment. It will not be as durable as a clear of
course and wax is temporary..very temporary and a lot of hard work (some people
like it).
I now there are special waxes for non painted gel coats (that you will have
in the case of boats). I would not experiment with these kind of waxes.
But any wax you see on the shelf of the automotive store (Pep Boys and the
like) will work just fine. No problem, only remember that if you intend to
paint. Use a good quality wax and grease remover that you can buy at any automotive
paint distribution center.
And No. You do not want to use silicone anywhere near your plane if you
intend to paint at a later date.
And Michel, as you say. All that industrial pollution is blowing your way. It
wont be long when Europe gets the stricter regulations as California and
other parts of this country.
Greetings. Eric.
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Hey all 582ers.
Had A fuel leak today which I noticed after a short flight!! I saw the fuel was
running down my exhaust pipe!!! YIKES!!! I removed my cowling! and found one
of my carbs leaking!!Looking at the carbs and primer lines, as well as the fuel
lines I thought there needs to be some kind of tray or "catch basin" here
to keep fuel leaks OFF the hot exhaust!!! Any Ideas??? Gotta fix this!!!
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Thanks for getting back on this topic Kurt. Nobody else has ventured forth
yet, but I'm hoping some do. More below.
> Darrel,
> No brave answers yet? When I did my parachute
> required stuff recently, I found my NSI engine mounts
> allowed a little too much movement and I got a scuffed
> cowl from the spinner. (I'm sure it was the spin to
> the left that did it) Might be good to check yours
> first. That heavy CAP prop makes a big gyro up front.
> I only have 42 hrs on the plane, but the engine has
> been hung for a few years, if that makes a difference.
I have the round cowl so scuffing won't happen. On the subject of the
mounts, I removed about 1/8" out of each mount bushing that tightens things
up a bit and gives the engine less movement with no noticeable problems.
>
> Do you have a G meter? I don't, so I limited my
> maneuvers to just one or 2 of each. I preceeded the
> maneuvers with 60 degree AOB turns to get a 2 G feel.
> I didn't do any barrel rolls. Not enough KitFox
> experience or attempts at each maneuver to suggest
> good data except:
>
> It should roll right better due to torque, but it
> rolls fine left too.
You're correct in that right turns for the barrel rolls would probably be
best as it's working with the torque. I haven't done any aero in it yet,
but I plan to and I just need to get my homework done first before the time
comes. I love barrel rolls, but before I do any in the fox I want to make
sure I have the right numbers so I don't end upside and run out of airspeed.
>
> I tried standard rolls starting at 100 knots. That
> was more than the Fox needed. I used 10 degrees nose
> up for the entry, but didn't get close enough to zero
> G's on entry and went a bit nose low inverted.
When you say standard rolls, it sounds like you're speaking of barrel rolls.
Semantics? If so, wouldn't about 25 to 30 degrees up be a better entry
before rolling inverted?
>
> Other than that, my maneuvers were too sloppy to be a
> good model. If you have a G meter, try a split S
> first from near stall speed and see what your bottom
> speed is when using good G control. That would
> probably do for a loop entry speed. It is important
> to set 1 G and increasing as soon as you are inverted
> to keep it tight and the speed down. If you don't get
> a good pull right off inverted or at the top of a
> loop, you'll overspeed. The cure for that is to
> recognize it early and roll upright before you get to
> 45 degrees nose low Cuban 8 style. Then try again.
>
> What works for a Citabra probably works for a KF,
> except you may roll better.
Good tips. Thanks.
>
> Without a G meter, I am not anticipating doing any
> more acro, except maybe rolls and F-16 approach turns,
> which are way less than split S's. My fun meter is
> pegged for awhile.
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
I've got a hole on my panel for a G-meter. I'll see if I can hunt one up.
Anybody out there have a 2.25" G-meter to sell?
Darrel
>
> --- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
>
> > Anybody out there done barrel rolls with their Fox?
> > I need the step by step procedure including entry
> > speed. My prop is geared so is counter rotating.
> > Does this mean the rolls need to be to the right?
> > How about loops?
> > And yes, I'm getting a checkout first.
> > Darrel
> > S5
>
>
> _______________________________
> Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
> http://vote.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "PEDRO PEREZ" <5324@PRTC.NET>
SALUDOS JOSE: DE MI PARTE TE DIRE QUE ESTOY ESPERANDO EL LANDING GEAR
GROVE!!!
SUPUESTAMENTE REPARE LA PIEZA QUE APAGO EL MOTOR Y PROBARE CUANTO ANTES!!!!
EXITO CON TU PROYECTO >>>> CUALQUIER AYUDA A TU ORDEN YA SABES QUE ESTUVE
ENVUELTO EN LA MODIFICACION DEL MIO
PEDRO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Skyfox?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
>
> Michel:
>
> You can order a Skyfox cowling through Suncoast (www.suncoastjabiru.com),
> the Jabiru dealer in Florida. I intend to order in the next few days a
> complete package including engine (2200), engine mount for my Kitfox II,
> Skyfox cowling, gauges, and everything else you need to do this
> conversion. The Skyfox cowling is supposed to fit Kitfox II and III
> without modifications. It does require modification for the Model IV.
>
> Jose
>
> Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
>
> Guys,
> If you want to do business on the internet, you have to answer customers.
> I
> never got an answer from Aircraft Spruce regarding their tailwheel and
> now, I
> don't get an answer from Skyfox regarding their cowling.
>
> I would then take my business elsewhere but the market is not that big. My
> question is then: Before I decide for something else, do any of you know
> how I
> can get Australian Skyfox to answer if they have a cowling I can use on my
> model 3, when I install the Jabiru?
>
> Any advise would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
>
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Jose M. Toro, P.E.
> Kitfox II/582
> "A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Oil Pressure Mistery on 912 UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Make sure you're grounded good. I had the same issue and it was a very
slight resistance in the ground between the engine and the airframe.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jimmie
Blackwell
Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil Pressure Mistery on 912 UL
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Recently I experienced an oil pressure problem indication. I am concerned
about the oil pressure indication showing on my Westach quad gauge. At low
rpm, 2000-2500 my oil pressure gauge fluctuates wildly from 60 to 100 psi.
Bringing the rpm up to over 3000 rpm settles the gauge down to between 60
and 80 psi. I am trying to determine whether I have an oil sensor problem.
electrical problem or an actual oil pressure problem.
Talking to Lockwood they seem to think that I have an oil pressures sensor
problem. A new sensor for the Westach is expensive. Talking to another
Rotax repair facility' they suggest also that it is probably an oil pressure
sensor problem, but it may be a rubber oil line that is collapsing.
Wonder if any of you had these problems.
Before I get airborne again I plan to replace all the oil lines just be
safe. Hopefully someone can tell me what size and type hoses to buy to
replace the oil lines.
Thanks
Jimmie
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 ers!! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
Hi Gil,
When mine did this, it was due to trash blocking the float inlet, allowing
the bowl to overflow after shutting the engine down. So just clean out the
fuel inlet to the float bowl, hopefully!
Cheers,
bh
> Hey all 582ers.
>
> Had A fuel leak today which I noticed after a short flight!! I saw the
> fuel was running down my exhaust pipe!!! YIKES!!! I removed my cowling!
> and found one of my carbs leaking!!Looking at the carbs and primer lines,
> as well as the fuel lines I thought there needs to be some kind of tray or
> "catch basin" here to keep fuel leaks OFF the hot exhaust!!! Any Ideas???
> Gotta fix this!!!
>
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
>
>
> Still alive and flyin!!!!
>
> Gil
Message 18
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| Subject: | What are the requirments for a pilots lic. in Europe? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian" <experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Hi List,
Here in the USA we can fly under part 103 for an ultralight, but do you need a
pilots license to fly one over seas? I have heard them called Microlights over
there? Is that the proper term, and what might be the requirments for a private,
or do they have a sport pilot equivalant?
It would be for in Greece.
Thanks
Jay Fabian
KF4-1200
Message 19
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| Subject: | Initial prop setting - 912S with 3-Blade Warp Drive |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
Thanks Brian, Lance and Bill,
I did some interpolation of the settings you provided and came up with an
initial setting of 12 degrees. Full throttle today produced 5800 RPM.
Thanks again,
John Banes
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