Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:22 AM - Re: windshield problems (Ceashman@aol.com)
2. 03:11 AM - Re: FAA Regs (Ceashman@aol.com)
3. 04:14 AM - Re: windshield problems (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
4. 04:48 AM - windshield problems (Dee Young)
5. 04:55 AM - Re: windshield problems (Fox5flyer)
6. 05:26 AM - windshield (Clem Nichols)
7. 06:13 AM - SV: windshield (Michel Verheughe)
8. 06:46 AM - Re: windshield problems (Lowell Fitt)
9. 08:08 AM - Re: Tires for Model IV (customtrans@qwest.net)
10. 10:05 AM - Re: Ready to fly? (Michael Gibbs)
11. 10:34 AM - Re: windshield problems (Gary Algate)
12. 10:46 AM - Re: Ready to fly? (Larry Huntley)
13. 11:12 AM - Speed taxiing. WAS Tires for Model IV (Michel Verheughe)
14. 11:14 AM - Re: Desert Fox Squadron Fly-In (Michel Verheughe)
15. 12:04 PM - Re: Speed taxiing. WAS Tires for Model IV (customtrans@qwest.net)
16. 01:10 PM - Re: Tires for Model IV (Lowell Fitt)
17. 02:12 PM - Re: Ready to fly? (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
18. 02:20 PM - Re: windshield problems (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
19. 02:36 PM - Re: windshield problems (flier)
20. 04:10 PM - Re: Tires for Model IV (customtrans@qwest.net)
21. 04:57 PM - Re: windshield problems (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
22. 05:15 PM - 912 Airbox ()
23. 05:18 PM - windshield (Clem Nichols)
24. 05:18 PM - Horizontal stabilizer incidence ()
25. 05:51 PM - Re: windshield (Larry Huntley)
26. 05:51 PM - Re: windshield problems (Flier)
27. 05:54 PM - Re: Horizontal stabilizer incidence (customtrans@qwest.net)
28. 05:55 PM - Re: windshield (customtrans@qwest.net)
29. 06:09 PM - Re: Horizontal stabilizer incidence (John King)
30. 06:18 PM - Re: windshield (Ceashman@aol.com)
31. 06:37 PM - Re: Horizontal stabilizer incidence (Lowell Fitt)
32. 06:40 PM - Re: windshield problems (Lowell Fitt)
33. 06:50 PM - Re: 912 Airbox (Lowell Fitt)
34. 07:24 PM - Re: windshield problems (Rick)
35. 07:32 PM - GOOD SOURCE FOR TIRES! (KITFOXPILOT@att.net)
36. 07:44 PM - Re: windshield (Bob Unternaehrer)
37. 07:47 PM - Re: windshield problems (david yeamans)
38. 07:49 PM - Re: windshield (Bob Unternaehrer)
39. 08:31 PM - Re: windshield (David Savener)
40. 09:28 PM - Re: windshield problems (jimshumaker)
41. 10:36 PM - Re: windshield (STEPHEN ZAKRESKI)
42. 11:34 PM - I do carry some green (Rex & Jan Shaw)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
-->I've never been one to be very concerned about appearances, but I
certainly don't relish the thought of the windshield breaking loose and blowing
into
the cockpit, nor do I want to spend a l!
ot of money unnecessarily. Is this something I need to be alarmed about?
I'd appreciate your opinions. Many thanks.
Clem Nichols
-->Model IV 1200
Hello Clem.
I also have the same problem. In fact a little worse. It is now split and a 2
inch gap is wide open, from wing root to under the engine cowling.
The splitting in the polycarbonate sheeting (lexan) started not long after I
fabricated the windshield from the 4 x 4 flat sheet.
As we know the stress during bending the sheet near the forward wing root is
tremendous and talking to people they say "it is not if the shield will crack,
it is when the shield will crack" So after 75 hours of flying, mine is done
for! Too much stress and too much Ultra Violet.
So' I am grounded. Yes, I do have a spare sheet of lexan but It is not worth
the work of cutting and installation. I have ordered an LP Aeroplastic's
Acrylic windshield.
This is molded/formed to the curvature of that sharp profile. It is aircraft
quality acrylic and the company states that there should be a 15 year life to
it (I don't know if this life is for un-hangered aircraft) Look at the Skystar
web site and go to the catalogue to find the price.
As this is your window to the outside world. I think it important that there
is no sudden popping and splitting at 3 to 5000 feet. Luckily my split
happened when the plane was in the barn. Am I glad this didn't happen at altitude
and
letting the wind rush in!
I should get the windshield in about two weeks. after installation I can tell
you what difficulties I had.
Eric Ashman. Classic IV, Atlanta GA.
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
I live in a small town in East Idaho where I have been asked to set on our
local airport board. Our airport has some problems, one of which is farm
equipment parked around in various places and particularly around the FBO hanger.
It
is so bad some days you get caught by Ag cats coming/going and are unable to
see around all the obstructions. Can someone point me in a direction where I
might find information governing the use of airports? Any thoughts or help would
really be appreciated,
Thanks
-->Dee Young
Hello Dee.
Small town airport problems!
I remember my flight training out of PDK (Peachtree Dekalb airport) Very
busy, someone once said this is the second busiest airport in Georgia, after
Atlanta. The trouble there was airplanes all around, parked in various places and
particularly around the FBO. very difficult to taxi around and the wait for
take off clearance was tremendous. On Saturday's could be up to 15 minutes.
But I suffered it, I wanted the "radio time" and I wanted the "tower time" As
compared to a small airport.
Dee, don't get me wrong. I am not taking your airport/farm implement storage
field lightly.
But it looks like, for the airport manager, this is his second job. His first
is farming. This could be excellent (I sometimes wish I had a position like
this) If this is a farming community then you must enjoy the low flying around
your airport and the freedom this community provides. Near Atlanta, or any big
town there are restrictions near your airport.
I would say, communication is your best tool. Be diplomatic, don't get too
bureaucratic and piss the manager off.
You say that you have been asked to sit on the airport board. That means that
you are not alone. Make a plan, What do you want to accomplish. Make a plan,
together with the other members to all buy in. Present it to the management.
Consider, the airport belongs to the people who use the airport, If people were
not using it why keep it open!
And if this does not work. Then from the advice from the others. Get your
ducks in a row, get your FAA regulations out and AOPA stuff and let him have it
with both barrels blazing.
What I am trying to say is' Sometimes, how we approach the situation will get
us the maximum results.
Hope this helps. Eric Ashman. Classic IV Atlanta area, GA
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/17/04 5:09:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cnichols@scrtc.com writes:
<< and blowing into the cockpit, nor do I want to spend a l!
ot of money unnecessarily. Is this something I need to be alarmed about?
I'd appreciate your opinions. Many thanks.
Clem Nichols >>
Clem,
You already have two "right on" comments from others. The problem is as
normal as breathing air. I switched from the thicker Lexan to the Thinner
stuff in hopes the "crazing" would stop. It didn't. Both my windshields started
crazing at the corners shortly after installation. You just have to get at
different angles to see it in the early stages.
As far as breaking, I only recall one windshield breaking. That was
Michael Harter. He stopped at some little airport and they drilled holes along
each side of the split and stitched it up with lockwire. I don't think his
break was related to the tight bend areas.
In other words, I don't think you have to worry about the windshield
breaking too quick. Would be interesting to see just how many have broken in
flight.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 4
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 05:47:50 -0600
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Don says; it would be interesting to see just how many have broken in flight.
The Model II that I fly had a similar break as described by Clem. It happened during
flight and broke from the turtle deck to the front at the bend by the wing
root and parallel with the root about 4" out. It also broke up the Passengers
side and across to the middle but had not made it to the other break. I discovered
it on what I believe was the next preflight. I never new has happened
until that time. What I started taking it out it fell apart in pieces. It was
the stock material and was 89 vintage. After taking it out it would be my opinion
that grounding the craft until its replaced may be a good idea. At least
in this case it was. Good Luck Clem
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Clem, I'd either replace it with another Lexan or go with the long term fix,
LP Aeroplastics acrylic premolded windshield. If you decide to replace it
with Lexan, it's a no-brainer because you already have the old one as a
template. The whole job wouldn't take more than a few hours and Lexan can
be purchased at most large hardware chains. It's not very expensive.
As for the LP windshield, if you plan on keeping the airplane for a long
time, go with it. They're only a couple hundred bucks and the reward is
worth it. Better opticals, tough (it doesn't scratch easily like Lexan),
stronger, and will last many years as opposed to Lexan that scratches when
you look at it.
With my old Model II when I replaced it after a couple years it nearly fell
apart while I was taking it out. Lexan doesn't do well in tight bends. I
doubt that it would blow in on you, but the lift can definitely lift it
right off the top of the airplane.
Darrel
> -->I've never been one to be very concerned about appearances, but I
> certainly don't relish the thought of the windshield breaking loose and
blowing into
> the cockpit, nor do I want to spend a l!
> ot of money unnecessarily. Is this something I need to be alarmed about?
> I'd appreciate your opinions. Many thanks.
>
> Clem Nichols
> -->Model IV 1200
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Eric, Dee, Don, et al:
Thanks for your response to my windshield concern. It sounds to me as if the acrylic
model from L-P Aeroplastic is the way to go.
Clem
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Well, guys, my windshield is a 12 years old lexan one and I can barely see a few
tiny small cracks on the corners of the wing root.
I can only bless the saw of the carptenter who built the craddle which was used
by the father of the man who introduced to each other the parents of the guy
who built my Kitfox! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
My windshield is as Don's. I changed mine out when I could catch one of the
crazelines with my fingernail. This is when I was convinced the crack went
clear through. For me the Lexan is not a problem. I like the light weight
and it took only about 4 hours to change it out and this by drilling out
all the rivets. I didn't put in the nut plates like others did. I am into
my sixth month on my second windshield with six years since first flight.
One piece of advice, for what it's worth. I changed mine out in the heat of
the summer ~ 100 F. I think cold forming the Lexan might be a contributor
to early failure. I do have craze lines already, though - about 1" long at
present.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/17/04 5:09:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> cnichols@scrtc.com writes:
>
> << and blowing into the cockpit, nor do I want to spend a l!
> ot of money unnecessarily. Is this something I need to be alarmed about?
> I'd appreciate your opinions. Many thanks.
>
> Clem Nichols >>
>
> Clem,
> You already have two "right on" comments from others. The problem is
as
> normal as breathing air. I switched from the thicker Lexan to the Thinner
> stuff in hopes the "crazing" would stop. It didn't. Both my windshields
started
> crazing at the corners shortly after installation. You just have to get
at
> different angles to see it in the early stages.
> As far as breaking, I only recall one windshield breaking. That was
> Michael Harter. He stopped at some little airport and they drilled holes
along
> each side of the split and stitched it up with lockwire. I don't think
his
> break was related to the tight bend areas.
> In other words, I don't think you have to worry about the windshield
> breaking too quick. Would be interesting to see just how many have broken
in
> flight.
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Tires for Model IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
If a person wants a tundra tire for the kitfox, mine are 21X12-8, thats an
8in rim, no tube, than call mark at 1-509-924-7333. The measurements filled
with air are: 20" diameter, that's 10" from center to ground, they do raise
you up, might want to get the spring gear. 9"inches wide. I generally put
6 pounds of air in them. Tire wear, I agree with Lowell. The CFI's love to
do the one wheel thing, I personally try not to bank to much for cross wind,
but rather change my landing to a one end of the runway corner to the other
side, thus reducing the cross wind effect, with all the control the kitfox
has, this is easy to do, remember the ailerons work down to 25mph. If the
runway is not wide enough then you need to, but in a cross align the runway
straight with rudder, no yaw, and then put in the aileron to correct for
drift. On any landing, if you squeak the tires at all, you are NOT
straight. The landing should be with out noise from those tires.
Here is some more info on landing or taming this kitty: When you come in to
land, try to avoid flat landing. Meaning a shallow glide path. I found
that if you can increase the glide path, usually at 55mph(maybe some flaps,
about half), and pull back on the stick (not all the way back, or you will
lift back off) just before touchdown, flair, you end up painting the wheels,
front, on the runway. I relate the flat landing to throwing a rock on the
water and making it skip. I found that every time I land flat and slow, I
bounce all over the place. Now this is my experience and it was after doing
150hrs in the plane first, I don't know if you want to try this the first
time out. Along with this, once you touch, push the stick forward and add
power, now your running on the wheels and you can either put on the brakes
(now you have to pull back on the stick a little) or keep running down the
runway and get to the end of the runway faster than taking the taxiway.
When you want to stop, pull the power and then let the tail gently come down
and then hit the brakes.
steve a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tires for Model IV
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Just a thought. I have been using the two ply tires since flying with the
exception of one stint in home ground ATV tires. The first two sets were
replaced after a BFR and a loan of the airplane to a friend that was being
checked out by the same CFI I used for my BFR.
I could never convince the CSI that the Model IV centerline didn't parallel
the cowl side. He was always landing in a crab and one maneuver he liked to
do was the one where you fly the runway alternating the right tire touching
and the left etc. Well, he was really good at finding the cord by scuffing
the robber right off the tires.
This is my thought based on a few hours of my own and mostly on paved
runways. These large two ply tires last a long time. I do carry some green
stuff to seal pinholes and a pump when flying to remote strips. The sealant
is in one tire but not the other. If you guys are finding that the tires
are not lasting and the cord shows prematurely in your opinion, I would
suggest first looking at the wheel alignment. This is a problem in cars
regarding tread wear and will happen in our airplanes as well. Then I
would consider the airplanes orientation when landing - make sure you are
not crabbing at the moment of touch down. My CFI friend could pretty much
ruin a tire in an hour if he flew the way he wanted to.
My last BFR I told him I didn't want to work on the close to the ground
stuff.
Lowell
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Ready to fly? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
> Howard lives in a town called Virginia. It's way up north in the cold
>country (not the state of Virginia). His town is full of beautiful birds.
You mean something like Virginia, Alaska or Virginia, Greenland? :-)
Mike G.
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Lowell
Good advice re changing lexan in heat of summer preferably. I've changed
mine about 4 times in 3 years but purely because I used to fill my panel
tank and spill gas on the screen. I finally basically sealed the panel tank
filler and now only fill through the wing tank.
I can change a screen in about 2 hours now - not something I'm particularly
proud of.
The last couple of times I used a heat gun to relieve the stress at the
compound curve near the butt rib and found that I was able to almost
eliminate the appearance of the crazing in this area.
I fit the screen and rivet it in place and then heat the area pretty
intensely to the point where you can deform the lexan with your finger if
you press on it. When it cools it has released all of the internal stresses
to the point that if you remove the screen the compound curve remains in
place.
The last screen has been in place for over 12 months and there is no sign of
any crazing where previously the crazing would appear after about 3 months.
Gary A
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>vice, for what it's worth. I changed mine out in the heat of
the summer ~ 100 F. I think cold forming the Lexan might be a contributor
to early failure. I do have craze lines already, though - about 1" long at
present.
Lowell
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Ready to fly? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
Actually Howard is way down south in Minnesota. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gibbs" <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ready to fly?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>
> > Howard lives in a town called Virginia. It's way up north in the
cold
> >country (not the state of Virginia). His town is full of beautiful
birds.
>
> You mean something like Virginia, Alaska or Virginia, Greenland? :-)
>
> Mike G.
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Speed taxiing. WAS Tires for Model IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
customtrans@qwest.net wrote:
> When you want to stop, pull the power and then let the tail gently come down
> and then hit the brakes.
Yessss! I just love that feeling, when the last bit of air fights back gravity
to finally give up and gently rest the tailwheel on the ground!
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Desert Fox Squadron Fly-In |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Michael Gibbs wrote:
> As far as I could tell, a good time was had by all!
Good for you, Mike! I am glad you were there and enjoyed it. Have a speedy
recovery, friend!
Michel
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Speed taxiing. WAS Tires for Model IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
It's also pretty cool when taking off and not give a bunch of power and
right about 40 you push the stick forward and bring the tail up and then
push more power and then pull back on the stick.
steve a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Subject: Kitfox-List: Speed taxiing. WAS Tires for Model IV
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
customtrans@qwest.net wrote:
> When you want to stop, pull the power and then let the tail gently come
down
> and then hit the brakes.
Yessss! I just love that feeling, when the last bit of air fights back
gravity
to finally give up and gently rest the tailwheel on the ground!
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tires for Model IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Steve, If you bought your Model IV from Mark - the yellow one with the
blue top main cowl - N90TY, then you definitely have the airplane that flew
through the dust devil. I thought I recognized it from the description.
Lowell
Don not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Tires for Model IV
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> If a person wants a tundra tire for the kitfox, mine are 21X12-8, thats an
> 8in rim, no tube, than call mark at 1-509-924-7333. The measurements
filled
> with air are: 20" diameter, that's 10" from center to ground, they do
raise
> you up, might want to get the spring gear. 9"inches wide. I generally
put
> 6 pounds of air in them. Tire wear, I agree with Lowell. The CFI's love
to
> do the one wheel thing, I personally try not to bank to much for cross
wind,
> but rather change my landing to a one end of the runway corner to the
other
> side, thus reducing the cross wind effect, with all the control the kitfox
> has, this is easy to do, remember the ailerons work down to 25mph. If the
> runway is not wide enough then you need to, but in a cross align the
runway
> straight with rudder, no yaw, and then put in the aileron to correct for
> drift. On any landing, if you squeak the tires at all, you are NOT
> straight. The landing should be with out noise from those tires.
>
> Here is some more info on landing or taming this kitty: When you come in
to
> land, try to avoid flat landing. Meaning a shallow glide path. I found
> that if you can increase the glide path, usually at 55mph(maybe some
flaps,
> about half), and pull back on the stick (not all the way back, or you will
> lift back off) just before touchdown, flair, you end up painting the
wheels,
> front, on the runway. I relate the flat landing to throwing a rock on the
> water and making it skip. I found that every time I land flat and slow, I
> bounce all over the place. Now this is my experience and it was after
doing
> 150hrs in the plane first, I don't know if you want to try this the first
> time out. Along with this, once you touch, push the stick forward and add
> power, now your running on the wheels and you can either put on the brakes
> (now you have to pull back on the stick a little) or keep running down the
> runway and get to the end of the runway faster than taking the taxiway.
> When you want to stop, pull the power and then let the tail gently come
down
> and then hit the brakes.
>
> steve a
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tires for Model IV
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> Just a thought. I have been using the two ply tires since flying with the
> exception of one stint in home ground ATV tires. The first two sets were
> replaced after a BFR and a loan of the airplane to a friend that was being
> checked out by the same CFI I used for my BFR.
>
> I could never convince the CSI that the Model IV centerline didn't
parallel
> the cowl side. He was always landing in a crab and one maneuver he liked
to
> do was the one where you fly the runway alternating the right tire
touching
> and the left etc. Well, he was really good at finding the cord by
scuffing
> the robber right off the tires.
>
> This is my thought based on a few hours of my own and mostly on paved
> runways. These large two ply tires last a long time. I do carry some
green
> stuff to seal pinholes and a pump when flying to remote strips. The
sealant
> is in one tire but not the other. If you guys are finding that the tires
> are not lasting and the cord shows prematurely in your opinion, I would
> suggest first looking at the wheel alignment. This is a problem in cars
> regarding tread wear and will happen in our airplanes as well. Then I
> would consider the airplanes orientation when landing - make sure you are
> not crabbing at the moment of touch down. My CFI friend could pretty much
> ruin a tire in an hour if he flew the way he wanted to.
>
> My last BFR I told him I didn't want to work on the close to the ground
> stuff.
>
> Lowell
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Ready to fly? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/18/04 10:06:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
MichaelGibbs@cox.net writes:
<< You mean something like Virginia, Alaska or Virginia, Greenland? :-)
Mike G.
Do not archive
Just about as bad, Virginia, Mn.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/18/04 10:35:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
algate@attglobal.net writes:
<< I fit the screen and rivet it in place and then heat the area pretty
intensely to the point where you can deform the lexan with your finger if
you press on it. When it cools it has released all of the internal stresses
to the point that if you remove the screen the compound curve remains in
place. >>
I did the same thing and even put heat lamps on the inside and outside
after using the heat gun and bolting in place. Still crazed......
I have a feeling that it's too late if you cold bend first and then add
the heat later. The crazing is already set in place during the initial cold
bend. Just doesn't show for a while. Just a theory.
A couple weeks ago, I made a lexan shield bent around a hard hat for
doing fiberglass. It was small enough to get in the oven so decided to use the
Lexan method of heat forming (just as an experiment). I heated the lexan for a
couple hours at around 100 degrees. Had the piece bent into a "U" shape to
fit the hardhat and tied with two pieces of wire. At the end of 2 hours, I
increased the temp to around 300 degrees for 30 minutes or until pliable. The
piece went too pliable and lost a lot of it's shape. I thing true heat forming
needs to be done in a perfect mold to hold everything together while cooling.
My hardhat shield has not crazed?
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
You're right Don. Polycarbonate takes close to 400F
to vacuum form. It also requires drying-out before
forming to avoid crazing due to absorbed water vapor.
You really need to heat and form it while hot. I put
my second windshield in on a day when the OAT was
around 100 deg. F and have found it's lasted a lot
longer (5 yrs) than the first one did (little over 2
yrs). The first one was installed in an OAT around
70 deg F. So, I'll wait until the hottest day of
summer the next time I install one!
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/18/04 10:35:38 AM Pacific
Daylight Time,
>algate@attglobal.net writes:
>
><< I fit the screen and rivet it in place and then
heat the area pretty
> intensely to the point where you can deform the
lexan with your finger if
> you press on it. When it cools it has released all
of the internal stresses
> to the point that if you remove the screen the
compound curve remains in
> place. >>
>
> I did the same thing and even put heat lamps on
the inside and outside
>after using the heat gun and bolting in place.
Still crazed......
> I have a feeling that it's too late if you cold
bend first and then add
>the heat later. The crazing is already set in place
during the initial cold
>bend. Just doesn't show for a while. Just a theory.
> A couple weeks ago, I made a lexan shield bent
around a hard hat for
>doing fiberglass. It was small enough to get in the
oven so decided to use the
>Lexan method of heat forming (just as an
experiment). I heated the lexan for a
>couple hours at around 100 degrees. Had the piece
bent into a "U" shape to
>fit the hardhat and tied with two pieces of wire.
At the end of 2 hours, I
>increased the temp to around 300 degrees for 30
minutes or until pliable. The
>piece went too pliable and lost a lot of it's
shape. I thing true heat forming
>needs to be done in a perfect mold to hold
everything together while cooling.
> My hardhat shield has not crazed?
>Don Smythe
>N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
>_-
======================================================
==================
Contributions
any other
Forums.
>_-
======================================================
==================
>_-
======================================================
==================
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
http://www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
http://www.matronics.com/archives
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
list
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>_-
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>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Tires for Model IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
yes you are correct. He never told me about the dust devil.
steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tires for Model IV
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Steve, If you bought your Model IV from Mark - the yellow one with the
blue top main cowl - N90TY, then you definitely have the airplane that flew
through the dust devil. I thought I recognized it from the description.
Lowell
Don not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Tires for Model IV
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> If a person wants a tundra tire for the kitfox, mine are 21X12-8, thats an
> 8in rim, no tube, than call mark at 1-509-924-7333. The measurements
filled
> with air are: 20" diameter, that's 10" from center to ground, they do
raise
> you up, might want to get the spring gear. 9"inches wide. I generally
put
> 6 pounds of air in them. Tire wear, I agree with Lowell. The CFI's love
to
> do the one wheel thing, I personally try not to bank to much for cross
wind,
> but rather change my landing to a one end of the runway corner to the
other
> side, thus reducing the cross wind effect, with all the control the kitfox
> has, this is easy to do, remember the ailerons work down to 25mph. If the
> runway is not wide enough then you need to, but in a cross align the
runway
> straight with rudder, no yaw, and then put in the aileron to correct for
> drift. On any landing, if you squeak the tires at all, you are NOT
> straight. The landing should be with out noise from those tires.
>
> Here is some more info on landing or taming this kitty: When you come in
to
> land, try to avoid flat landing. Meaning a shallow glide path. I found
> that if you can increase the glide path, usually at 55mph(maybe some
flaps,
> about half), and pull back on the stick (not all the way back, or you will
> lift back off) just before touchdown, flair, you end up painting the
wheels,
> front, on the runway. I relate the flat landing to throwing a rock on the
> water and making it skip. I found that every time I land flat and slow, I
> bounce all over the place. Now this is my experience and it was after
doing
> 150hrs in the plane first, I don't know if you want to try this the first
> time out. Along with this, once you touch, push the stick forward and add
> power, now your running on the wheels and you can either put on the brakes
> (now you have to pull back on the stick a little) or keep running down the
> runway and get to the end of the runway faster than taking the taxiway.
> When you want to stop, pull the power and then let the tail gently come
down
> and then hit the brakes.
>
> steve a
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tires for Model IV
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> Just a thought. I have been using the two ply tires since flying with the
> exception of one stint in home ground ATV tires. The first two sets were
> replaced after a BFR and a loan of the airplane to a friend that was being
> checked out by the same CFI I used for my BFR.
>
> I could never convince the CSI that the Model IV centerline didn't
parallel
> the cowl side. He was always landing in a crab and one maneuver he liked
to
> do was the one where you fly the runway alternating the right tire
touching
> and the left etc. Well, he was really good at finding the cord by
scuffing
> the robber right off the tires.
>
> This is my thought based on a few hours of my own and mostly on paved
> runways. These large two ply tires last a long time. I do carry some
green
> stuff to seal pinholes and a pump when flying to remote strips. The
sealant
> is in one tire but not the other. If you guys are finding that the tires
> are not lasting and the cord shows prematurely in your opinion, I would
> suggest first looking at the wheel alignment. This is a problem in cars
> regarding tread wear and will happen in our airplanes as well. Then I
> would consider the airplanes orientation when landing - make sure you are
> not crabbing at the moment of touch down. My CFI friend could pretty much
> ruin a tire in an hour if he flew the way he wanted to.
>
> My last BFR I told him I didn't want to work on the close to the ground
> stuff.
>
> Lowell
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/18/04 2:36:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
FLIER@sbcglobal.net writes:
<< You really need to heat and form it while hot. I put
my second windshield in on a day when the OAT was
around 100 deg. F and have found it's lasted a lot
longer (5 yrs) than the first one did (little over 2
yrs). The first one was installed in an OAT around
70 deg F. So, I'll wait until the hottest day of
summer the next time I install one!
Regards,
Ted
>>
Ted,
I guess waiting until the hottest day of the year is only half way
approaching the problem. On hot days the humidity is usually high and does not
permit proper drying prior to heat forming. It's always been one of my "things
to do" to build an oven that would properly dry the Lexan before bringing it up
to temp for heat forming. I'm not sure if an exact mold would be required
when doing the heat form portion. I think anything along this approach would be
much better than simply bending the Lexan in "any" OAT condition????
If someone would build and oven that would dry the lexan and then heat
form it, they could make some good money just selling to the Kitfox list??
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 22
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
I see the new service bulletin supporting the airbox for ALL 912s.
a) Does anyone know how much for the kit?
b) What air filter do you change to?
c) Is carb heat needed on a 912 UL?
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
It sounds to me as if most group members experience with the lexan windshield has
been less than totally satisfactory, what with having to work on 100 degree
days with heat guns, etc., only to have to repeat the process within a couple
of years. I'm certainly leaning toward the acrylic model, but before committing
myself would like to hear from those who have experience with it. There's
apparently no question they are much longer lived and more impervious to scratches.
What about the installation process itself? Is it fairly simple and virtually
foolproof, or does it require a degree from MIT, extensive experience
with multiple tools, the help of several friends, and the patience of Job? I'm
not interested in spending over $400 plus shipping charges only to find out
I've bitten off more than I can chew. (Incidentally, if you haven't already
noticed, Skystar's new website seems to be up and running, and, Michel, they say
they're planning on introducing a Jabiru engine installation package.)
Clem Nichols
Message 24
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| Subject: | Horizontal stabilizer incidence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
Can anyone tell me what the horizontal stab incidence (relative to level
fuselage) ended up being on their Classic IV with a 912? Or just which hole
(new or old book) the leading edge of the stab ended up in? Thanks
Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
Hi Folks,
FWIIW, I installed my polycarbonate windshield ( I think it was Rhino,I
know it wasn't Lexan) in 1997. There was a lot of stress in the top corners.
I worked in a shop at about 75-80F. Once I had it in place,I "wiped" it w/ a
heat gun til I could see the material"relax" and stopped immediately. I have
some crazing in those areas but no real cracks. I have flown it in weather
from 10F to 95F. Doesn't seem to get any worse. Biggest problem is
many,many, scratches,some of them pretty bad, from raising the rear of the
cowling mostly. It is getting hazy in some places from an incorrect cleaning
agent.
I will probably replace it next summer after 400+ hrs. I Think would use
acrylic because of the resistance to haze and scratching , but I did a lot
of reconfiguring of my cowling when installing my own Soob package and I
don't think I could make one fit.
On another front,My Tripacer acrylic shield has a lot of crazing in that
area as well as a couple of short cracks that I have stop-drilled,so that is
not perfect either.
Nothing but thoughts and opinions.
Larry Huntley,Kitfox 4-1200,EA81,Dundee,NY,USA
Message 26
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Yep, at a 100 deg though you're not really even approaching forming (or
crazing) temp. All it seems to do is to help stress relieve a little
apparently.
By the time one goes to the trouble and expense I'd expect that the LP
formed windshield would be in order.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/18/04 2:36:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
FLIER@sbcglobal.net writes:
<< You really need to heat and form it while hot. I put
my second windshield in on a day when the OAT was
around 100 deg. F and have found it's lasted a lot
longer (5 yrs) than the first one did (little over 2
yrs). The first one was installed in an OAT around
70 deg F. So, I'll wait until the hottest day of
summer the next time I install one!
Regards,
Ted
>>
Ted,
I guess waiting until the hottest day of the year is only half way
approaching the problem. On hot days the humidity is usually high and does
not
permit proper drying prior to heat forming. It's always been one of my
"things
to do" to build an oven that would properly dry the Lexan before bringing it
up
to temp for heat forming. I'm not sure if an exact mold would be required
when doing the heat form portion. I think anything along this approach
would be
much better than simply bending the Lexan in "any" OAT condition????
If someone would build and oven that would dry the lexan and then heat
form it, they could make some good money just selling to the Kitfox list??
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 27
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| Subject: | Horizontal stabilizer incidence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
mine was in the top hole.
steve a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
brettandsandy@numail.org
Subject: Kitfox-List: Horizontal stabilizer incidence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
Can anyone tell me what the horizontal stab incidence (relative to level
fuselage) ended up being on their Classic IV with a 912? Or just which hole
(new or old book) the leading edge of the stab ended up in? Thanks
Message 28
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
I noticed that they can put tint on the windshield, is this a good idea?
sa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clem Nichols
Subject: Kitfox-List: windshield
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
It sounds to me as if most group members experience with the lexan
windshield has been less than totally satisfactory, what with having to work
on 100 degree days with heat guns, etc., only to have to repeat the process
within a couple of years. I'm certainly leaning toward the acrylic model,
but before committing myself would like to hear from those who have
experience with it. There's apparently no question they are much longer
lived and more impervious to scratches. What about the installation process
itself? Is it fairly simple and virtually foolproof, or does it require a
degree from MIT, extensive experience with multiple tools, the help of
several friends, and the patience of Job? I'm not interested in spending
over $400 plus shipping charges only to find out I've bitten off more than I
can chew. (Incidentally, if you haven't already noticed, Skystar's new
website seems to be up and running, and, Michel, they say they're planning
on introducing a Jabiru engine i!
nstallation package.)
Clem Nichols
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Horizontal stabilizer incidence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Brett,
In my Model IV-1200 I started out in the middle hole. It did not want to three-point,
so I put it in the bottom hole. Worked great in that position.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
brettandsandy@numail.org wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
>
>Can anyone tell me what the horizontal stab incidence (relative to level
>fuselage) ended up being on their Classic IV with a 912? Or just which hole
>(new or old book) the leading edge of the stab ended up in? Thanks
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
-->I noticed that they can put tint on the windshield, is this a good idea?
-->sa
I think it is. I purchased the grey tint when I ordered mine, last week.
Last Oshkosh (2003), I visited the LP Aeroplastic's booth and talked to the
manager. Very nice person and he showed me the samples of the tint and
explained that the tint is as strong as it can be and pass FAA regulations for
a
windshield. I think it looks cool, mostly, and maybe it will keep a very small
amount of sunlight out of the Kitfox.
Cheers. Eric.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal stabilizer incidence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Everyone I have seen is in the top hole and some actually rounded the
channel on the stab to allow fro a lightly higher mounting. I did it that
way.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Horizontal stabilizer incidence
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> mine was in the top hole.
>
> steve a
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> brettandsandy@numail.org
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Horizontal stabilizer incidence
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
>
> Can anyone tell me what the horizontal stab incidence (relative to level
> fuselage) ended up being on their Classic IV with a 912? Or just which
hole
> (new or old book) the leading edge of the stab ended up in? Thanks
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I am curious to hear from those that used the LP windshield and any comments
on installation. I seem to remember from comments on the list at least two
that cracked the windshield on installation and went for another one to
finish the job - is my memory correct on this?
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Yep, at a 100 deg though you're not really even approaching forming (or
> crazing) temp. All it seems to do is to help stress relieve a little
> apparently.
>
> By the time one goes to the trouble and expense I'd expect that the LP
> formed windshield would be in order.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> AlbertaIV@aol.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/18/04 2:36:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> FLIER@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> << You really need to heat and form it while hot. I put
> my second windshield in on a day when the OAT was
> around 100 deg. F and have found it's lasted a lot
> longer (5 yrs) than the first one did (little over 2
> yrs). The first one was installed in an OAT around
> 70 deg F. So, I'll wait until the hottest day of
> summer the next time I install one!
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
> >>
> Ted,
> I guess waiting until the hottest day of the year is only half way
> approaching the problem. On hot days the humidity is usually high and
does
> not
> permit proper drying prior to heat forming. It's always been one of my
> "things
> to do" to build an oven that would properly dry the Lexan before bringing
it
> up
> to temp for heat forming. I'm not sure if an exact mold would be required
> when doing the heat form portion. I think anything along this approach
> would be
> much better than simply bending the Lexan in "any" OAT condition????
> If someone would build and oven that would dry the lexan and then heat
> form it, they could make some good money just selling to the Kitfox list??
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Brett, the airbox is the same that is found on the 912 ULS. My guess it was
designed at least in part to help prevent the shedding of the carbs on
start-up and shut down. If you are running the UL now and are having no
problems, I would note the "Optional" on the heading and forget it. As for
me, if they were giving them away free, I would pass as I have a sweet
running engine already and to redesign the firewall forward set-up would be
more than I would want to tackle. I have a Model IV and the box extends
between the carb inlets right where the oil tank is.
I just checked prior posts and you have a Classic IV - It won't fit without
some major mods.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
Subject: Kitfox-List: 912 Airbox
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
>
> I see the new service bulletin supporting the airbox for ALL 912s.
> a) Does anyone know how much for the kit?
> b) What air filter do you change to?
> c) Is carb heat needed on a 912 UL?
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I found the quality of the plastic very nice, however the fitting was
definitely not a plug and play. Especially difficult fit at the top corners.
Proceed with caution and IMHO a hot summer time install option only.
Practice all cutting a drilling on some scraps, go slow and have some help.
Be sure to have the top cowl on when fitting. I know it will look close but
important point.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I am curious to hear from those that used the LP windshield and any comments
on installation. I seem to remember from comments on the list at least two
that cracked the windshield on installation and went for another one to
finish the job - is my memory correct on this?
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Yep, at a 100 deg though you're not really even approaching forming (or
> crazing) temp. All it seems to do is to help stress relieve a little
> apparently.
>
> By the time one goes to the trouble and expense I'd expect that the LP
> formed windshield would be in order.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> AlbertaIV@aol.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/18/04 2:36:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> FLIER@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> << You really need to heat and form it while hot. I put
> my second windshield in on a day when the OAT was
> around 100 deg. F and have found it's lasted a lot
> longer (5 yrs) than the first one did (little over 2
> yrs). The first one was installed in an OAT around
> 70 deg F. So, I'll wait until the hottest day of
> summer the next time I install one!
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
> >>
> Ted,
> I guess waiting until the hottest day of the year is only half way
> approaching the problem. On hot days the humidity is usually high and
does
> not
> permit proper drying prior to heat forming. It's always been one of my
> "things
> to do" to build an oven that would properly dry the Lexan before bringing
it
> up
> to temp for heat forming. I'm not sure if an exact mold would be required
> when doing the heat form portion. I think anything along this approach
> would be
> much better than simply bending the Lexan in "any" OAT condition????
> If someone would build and oven that would dry the lexan and then heat
> form it, they could make some good money just selling to the Kitfox list??
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | GOOD SOURCE FOR TIRES! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXPILOT@att.net
To all on the list,,
I recently purchased new tires from Wicks Aircraft Supply to replace my old slicks
gotten with my kit way back when! Dave at Wicks was able to order 18x8.50-8
tires and tube 18x6.50/7.50. These tires fit the old wheels very nice, and
look great. Page 294 of the catalog shows a photo carlisle tire with the nice
tread also they are 4 ply!! I mounted mine today, I am very happy.
Ray, N2BH
912S, Model IV,1200
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
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To all on the list,,
I recently purchased new tires from Wicks Aircraft Supply to replace my old slicksgotten
with my kit way back when! Dave at Wicks was able to order 18x8.50-8
tires and tube 18x6.50/7.50. These tires fit the old wheels very nice, and look
great. Page 294 of the catalog shows a photo carlisle tire with the nice tread
also they are 4 ply!! I mounted mine today, I am very happy.
Ray, N2BH
912S, Model IV,1200
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 36
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
I have a tint in my lexan windshield. It's ok except I continually get
fooled as to how dark it's getting at / or after sunset. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> I noticed that they can put tint on the windshield, is this a good idea?
>
> sa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clem Nichols
> To: kitfox list
> Subject: Kitfox-List: windshield
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> It sounds to me as if most group members experience with the lexan
> windshield has been less than totally satisfactory, what with having to
work
> on 100 degree days with heat guns, etc., only to have to repeat the
process
> within a couple of years. I'm certainly leaning toward the acrylic model,
> but before committing myself would like to hear from those who have
> experience with it. There's apparently no question they are much longer
> lived and more impervious to scratches. What about the installation
process
> itself? Is it fairly simple and virtually foolproof, or does it require a
> degree from MIT, extensive experience with multiple tools, the help of
> several friends, and the patience of Job? I'm not interested in spending
> over $400 plus shipping charges only to find out I've bitten off more than
I
> can chew. (Incidentally, if you haven't already noticed, Skystar's new
> website seems to be up and running, and, Michel, they say they're planning
> on introducing a Jabiru engine i!
> nstallation package.)
>
> Clem Nichols
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "david yeamans" <dafox@ckt.net>
Clem and Bruce and all windshield problemers,
I bought my Kitfox IV 1200 Kit in Oct. 1992, 12 years ago. I don't
know what the life of Lexan is, but apparently its at least 12 years.
Skystar came out with a service letter on Lexan. Its said, do not apply
heat to the bends on the Lexan as it would weaken this area, and would be
more suseptable to cracking, also, besure and smooth all the cuts and drilled holes
to a clean and mirror finish, any slight nick would be a place
for it to start cracking. Proper Preperation seems to be the safest assurence
against cracking and crazing. My windshield installation is
going on 5 years, and have just a little crazing. Bh is over 8 years.
I Believe the windshields that have been installed properly, will last
a long time. David
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Harrington
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2004 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
Hi Clem,
Some recommend replacing the Lexan windshields every 2-3 years. Mine had
the "crazing" you mention, but it slowly accumulated over 8 years! Typical
areas that craze are the tight bend near the forward wing roots. That's
where mine was the worst. I alsao had a few crazed spots near the cowl
where fuel had gotten to the Lexan.
When you begin to worry, then replace it. Take the old one off and use it
as a template.
Cheers,
bh
ex-N19KF 582ed IV-1200, 800+ hrs
> Advice please:
>
> I've recently noticed a "cracked" appearance in my windshield extending
> down and forward from the uppermost and most forward attachment point to
> the frame. This is present on both sides. It is not a single "crack",
> but instead many "cracks" extending downward and forward. I've also found
> two or three places on top of the windshield (above my head) where it
> looks like it was struck by a hard object. (What would be called in the
> medical profession a stellate fracture if it were on the skull) None of
> these areas can be felt on either the inside or the outside of the
> windshield, but they are very apparent. I suspect that these areas are
> the result of some of my less-than-perfect landings, ie due to stress
> buildup, but I don't know for sure, and I've not had any really bad
> experiences. I've never been one to be very concerned about appearances,
> but I certainly don't relish the thought of the windshield breaking loose
> and blowing into the cockpit, nor do I want to spend a l!
> ot of money unnecessarily. Is this something I need to be alarmed about?
> I'd appreciate your opinions. Many thanks.
>
> Clem Nichols
> Model IV 1200
Message 38
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
I might add that a good Automotive type tinting across the top might be
better. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> I noticed that they can put tint on the windshield, is this a good idea?
>
> sa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clem Nichols
> To: kitfox list
> Subject: Kitfox-List: windshield
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> It sounds to me as if most group members experience with the lexan
> windshield has been less than totally satisfactory, what with having to
work
> on 100 degree days with heat guns, etc., only to have to repeat the
process
> within a couple of years. I'm certainly leaning toward the acrylic model,
> but before committing myself would like to hear from those who have
> experience with it. There's apparently no question they are much longer
> lived and more impervious to scratches. What about the installation
process
> itself? Is it fairly simple and virtually foolproof, or does it require a
> degree from MIT, extensive experience with multiple tools, the help of
> several friends, and the patience of Job? I'm not interested in spending
> over $400 plus shipping charges only to find out I've bitten off more than
I
> can chew. (Incidentally, if you haven't already noticed, Skystar's new
> website seems to be up and running, and, Michel, they say they're planning
> on introducing a Jabiru engine i!
> nstallation package.)
>
> Clem Nichols
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 39
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Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 22:30:36 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
I too ordered the Aero Plastics windshield. HOWEVER!! My cowling didn't even
come close to fitting. The curve of the new molded windshield was much different.
I had to cut off the back of the cowl and re-fiberglass to get a smooth
transition from cowl to windshield. IT TOOK MANY HOURS TO GET IT TO LOOK RIGHT.
Dave S
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Clem Nichols<mailto:cnichols@scrtc.com>
To: kitfox list<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2004 7:25 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: windshield
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com<mailto:cnichols@scrtc.com>>
Eric, Dee, Don, et al:
Thanks for your response to my windshield concern. It sounds to me as if the
acrylic model from L-P Aeroplastic is the way to go.
Clem
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Clem
If you replace with a flat sheet I have two things you could consider.
1) Do NOT use hardware store lexan. A friend in plastics has indicated
that the sheets sent to the big store discounters is made up of scrape from
spec quality runs. Remember, you do not use hardware bolts in your plane
for a reason.
2) Make the cut out radius at the transition (from front to back to side to
side curve) as large as possible. This is the best way to limit the double
twist.
Jim Shumaker
Message 41
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: STEPHEN ZAKRESKI <szakreski@shaw.ca>
On my Classic 4 (with a cowl provided by NSI), my Aero Plastic windscreen fit perfectly
without modification...interesting. Possibly the cowl shape changed
with the various models.
SteveZ
Calgary
----- Original Message -----
From: David Savener <david_savener@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener"
> <david_savener@msn.com>
> I too ordered the Aero Plastics windshield. HOWEVER!! My cowling
> didn't even come close to fitting. The curve of the new molded
> windshield was much different. I had to cut off the back of the
> cowl and re-fiberglass to get a smooth transition from cowl to
> windshield. IT TOOK MANY HOURS TO GET IT TO LOOK RIGHT.
> Dave S
>
> Do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Clem Nichols<')" >cnichols@scrtc.com>
> To: kitfox list<')" >kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 2004 7:25 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: windshield
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols"
> <cnichols@scrtc.com<>')" >cnichols@scrtc.com>>
>
> Eric, Dee, Don, et al:
>
> Thanks for your response to my windshield concern. It sounds to
> me as if the acrylic model from L-P Aeroplastic is the way to go.
>
> Clem
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | I do carry some green |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
I do carry some green stuff to seal pinholes
Hi ! Lowell,
recently I changed from the original buffed down 8" ATV
tyres and fitted lawnmower tyres 18x6.5x8. Anyway when the tyre guy let the
air out of the old tyres he noticed some of that green stuff coming out. We
call it Green Slime here in Australia. He commented that it eats into the
rims real bad unless used in a tube but of course with those ATV tyres we
had no tubes. Anyway when we got the tyres off you could see the damage the
green slime was starting to do. Now personally I had only had it in a few
months but I had been told by the builder of the plane that there was
sealant in the tyres. I don't know though if that was also Green Slime. We
just cleaned it all up and put the new tyres on without sealant. At first we
didn't fit tubes but had a little trouble with slow air loss due to a little
distortion of the rim surface where the lugs for the brake discs had been
welded. However apart from that our new 4 ply lawnmower tyres were not going
flat all the time due to prickles from grass strips. We fitted tubes and now
haven't had to touch the pressures for ages.
The tyre guy said if we did need sealant in the future to use some
vegetable based stuff I think he told me it was. It had no effect on bare
rims without tubes. I bought a bottle and carry it but have not needed it.
The price was the same as the green stuff.
Rex Shaw
Australia
Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster/582.
rexjan@bigpond.com
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