Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:41 AM - tire/tube life (BROSCHART)
2. 04:49 AM - Re: Firewall Insulation (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
3. 04:55 AM - Re: windshield problems (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
4. 04:59 AM - Re: tire/tube life (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: windshield problems (Gill Levesque)
6. 06:55 AM - 582 heater core (Gill Levesque)
7. 06:56 AM - Re: tire/tube life (Lowell Fitt)
8. 07:22 AM - pennzoil (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
9. 07:28 AM - Re: windshield problems (Gary Algate)
10. 07:55 AM - Kit fox for sale (Timothy L. Howard)
11. 08:00 AM - Re: Kit fox for sale (vicwj@earthlink.net)
12. 08:12 AM - Re: windshield problems (Gill Levesque)
13. 08:57 AM - Re: Kit fox for sale (Don Pearsall)
14. 08:58 AM - Re: Kit fox for sale (Ed Veneck)
15. 09:32 AM - Fuel Sight Gauges (Jim Gilliatt)
16. 10:13 AM - Re: Firewall Insulation (Kerry Skyring)
17. 10:19 AM - Re: windshield problems (Gary Algate)
18. 11:16 AM - Re: windshield problems (customtrans@qwest.net)
19. 04:12 PM - firewall (John Oakley)
20. 04:23 PM - Re: Electric Prop Failure - October Update (kitfoxjunky)
21. 04:48 PM - Re: pennzoil (John King)
22. 05:44 PM - Re: firewall (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
23. 07:16 PM - Re: tire/tube life (david yeamans)
24. 07:32 PM - Re: firewall (David Savener)
25. 08:14 PM - Re: firewall (kurt schrader)
26. 08:30 PM - Re: Electric Prop Failure - October Update (kurt schrader)
27. 08:36 PM - Re: firewall (Dee Young)
28. 09:12 PM - Re: Fire wall Insulation (Guy Buchanan)
29. 09:12 PM - Re: Fire wall Insulation (Guy Buchanan)
30. 09:12 PM - Re: fire wall (Guy Buchanan)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: BROSCHART <cfbflyer@localnet.com>
my tires still have a little tread but are 8 years old
i'm wondering if it is advisable to replace them or are they serviceable
until they are bald
the tubes don't leak but i worry that they might leak and cause a
landing problem some day
any one know what the safe life of tires/tubes is
Have a good day - Charlie
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Insulation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/19/04 10:06:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bnn@nethere.com writes:
<< the archives and only came up with one thread about fiberfrax and iron
board coverings. The manual shows a quilted cover, but doesn't say what it
is or where to get it.)
Also, what kind of seal is best between the firewall and cowl. I
have a couple of places where I have a 1/2" gap. New fir >>
Guy,
The fiberfrax and ironing board covers was me...Don't do it. The covers
didn't hold up that well and get dirty. As far the 1/2" gap, that must go or
you will certainly feel the difference. I had some gaps a lot less than 1/2"
and almost froze to death during the first winter. I ended up using some
sheet rubber cut into strips that I attached to the upper edge of the firewall
and
sealed all the gaps between the firewall and cowl (Like standard baffling you
see on a certified aircooled engine around the jugs)
I think leaving the firewall nice and pretty is fine but it must be
sealed well between the engine and the people to keep out drafts and/or fumes.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/19/04 9:15:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jsmathers@cybcon.com writes:
<<
For cutting the LP plastic I used a Heavy Duty Dremel type tool and
used a long but slightly conical tapered Dremel bit that was a tungsten
carbide abrasive. >>
I have another tip to add that worked well for me. I used a 3" long wood
block plane with the blade set light. You can walk down the straight edges
of Lexan and cut very thin full length curlies with ease. Great for getting
that little proper fit and will round the edges beautifully. The cutting motion
will remove all saw marks from the edges.
It must work well because my edges are the only part not cracking. Ha.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: tire/tube life |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/20/04 1:41:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
cfbflyer@localnet.com writes:
<< any one know what the safe life of tires/tubes is
Have a good day - Charlie
>>
Good question Charlie. I have a little problem that needs some attention
in this area. My tires sit more on the outside threads and therefore wear
the outsides a lot more. I've had to rotate my tires around so the other side
will wear.
Question, should I add some shims to the wheels/Grove gear to make the
tires sit flat on the ground?
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 5
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Gary,
How does the 1/8th thick lexan bend around the windshield spar junction? I used
1/16th and it bent good but crazed after about 2 months! No problem with strength
even at 100mph!!! When I flew with you at Whitewater ,I didn't even notice
that yours was tinted! I will change mine to tinted next spring!!
What is the physical size of your heater core?
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
Gary Algate <algate@attglobal.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate"
Gents
I am using standard 1/8" Lexan as supplied by the local plastics supplier.
The only problem I have had is when I managed to stupidly pour gas on it
while refueling on a hot day. I did this so many times that I found there
was little or no effect on a cold day while it would cause immediate crazing
on a hot day.
With the standard lexan (8 x 4 sheet) I get two complete windscreens for
around CD$100 and once you are experienced it is only a 2 hour job for a
complete replacement.
I use the tinted lexan as I think it makes the plane look great plus it is
easy on the eyes for both winter and summer flying and I rarely fly after
sunset.
The 1/8" sheet may be a little more difficult to initially fit than the
thinner material but is certainly a lot stronger and offers a lot more
protection in the event of a bird strike.
Gary A
Lite2/582
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Hi All,
Ineed to add a heater to my fox!! Question is , how big is the skystar provided(EARLS?)
heater core? Would a similar sized core work? Would a small trnsmission
cooler core work! Transmission core has small (3/8") inlet and outlet! Would
the flow be sufficient?? Any ideas!!!
Gil Levesque
C-I -FREEZE
P.S.
Do any of you northern 582 ers, change main jets in the winter??(Denser air??)
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: tire/tube life |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Charlie and Don,
First, flying with the "slicks", I just wait until I see a little cord then
change the tires. My thought is that once through the tread you have
essentially what us slick users start with. I had times that I saw cord and
that is what prompted the tire change - no leakage to give a hint that
change was needed.
Second, I would guess that to rotate the tires would give twice the tire
life. If the tires would be vertical to the ground, once they are done,
they would be done for good.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: tire/tube life
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/20/04 1:41:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> cfbflyer@localnet.com writes:
>
> << any one know what the safe life of tires/tubes is
>
> Have a good day - Charlie
> >>
>
> Good question Charlie. I have a little problem that needs some
attention
> in this area. My tires sit more on the outside threads and therefore wear
> the outsides a lot more. I've had to rotate my tires around so the other
side
> will wear.
> Question, should I add some shims to the wheels/Grove gear to make the
> tires sit flat on the ground?
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
with all that has been written about the recommended oils, I went on a quest to
locate either the "highly" recommended Pennzoil or Shell motorcycle oil. From
one of the marketing spectrum to the other (Walmart to Harley) private branding
was the norm. Lots of opportunities to try Yamalube, suzukislick, or Hondastuff.
where have you guys found the recommended oils other than Mobil 1 that is readily
available?
John Kerr
with all that has been written about the recommended oils, I went on a quest to
locate either the "highly" recommended Pennzoil or Shell motorcycle oil. From
one of the marketing spectrum to the other (Walmart to Harley) private brandingwas
the norm. Lots of opportunities to try Yamalube, suzukislick, or Hondastuff.
where have you guys found the recommended oils other than Mobil 1 that is readily
available?
John Kerr
Message 9
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Gil
There really is not issue making the bend it just takes a little
"perseverance". Once it's in place it certainly adds strength to the cowl
and structure.
My heater core is about 6" x 4" - I spent a lot of time sealing my cabin for
winter and the heater is able to basically take the edge off the cold on a
-15 deg C day. Below that it doesn't do much as there isn't a lot of airflow
through it.
Best regards
Gary,
How does the 1/8th thick lexan bend around the windshield spar junction? I
used 1/16th and it bent good but crazed after about 2 months! No problem
with strength even at 100mph!!! When I flew with you at Whitewater ,I
didn't even notice that yours was tinted! I will change mine to tinted next
spring!!
What is the physical size of your heater core?
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
Message 10
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| Subject: | Kit fox for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Timothy L. Howard" <escapeharbor@compuserve.com>
If anyone is interested in a Kit Fox which is partially completed, please
contact us. Our home phone is 215-491-5567
Sincerely,
Tim Howard
Please see attachment for more information
Message 11
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| Subject: | Kit fox for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "vicwj@earthlink.net" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Tim, I did not get your attachment.
What model, where are you and how much?
Vic
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Timothy L. Howard escapeharbor@compuserve.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kit fox for sale
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Timothy L. Howard"
<escapeharbor@compuserve.com>
If anyone is interested in a Kit Fox which is partially completed, please
contact us. Our home phone is 215-491-5567
Sincerely,
Tim Howard
Please see attachment for more information
Message 12
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Gary'
Can you elaborate on sealing the cabin!!!
Gil Levesque
C-I GVL
Gary Algate <algate@attglobal.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate"
Gil
There really is not issue making the bend it just takes a little
"perseverance". Once it's in place it certainly adds strength to the cowl
and structure.
My heater core is about 6" x 4" - I spent a lot of time sealing my cabin for
winter and the heater is able to basically take the edge off the cold on a
-15 deg C day. Below that it doesn't do much as there isn't a lot of airflow
through it.
Best regards
Gary,
How does the 1/8th thick lexan bend around the windshield spar junction? I
used 1/16th and it bent good but crazed after about 2 months! No problem
with strength even at 100mph!!! When I flew with you at Whitewater ,I
didn't even notice that yours was tinted! I will change mine to tinted next
spring!!
What is the physical size of your heater core?
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
il Levesque
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Kit fox for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Tim,
You cannot send attachments via the Kitfox List. Text only. If anyone wants
more info on the kit for sale, they should contact you off-list and you can
send the attachment directly to them.
Don Pearsall
Admin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Timothy L.
Howard
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kit fox for sale
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Timothy L. Howard"
<escapeharbor@compuserve.com>
If anyone is interested in a Kit Fox which is partially completed, please
contact us. Our home phone is 215-491-5567
Sincerely,
Tim Howard
Please see attachment for more information
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Kit fox for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ed Veneck <edveneck@yahoo.com>
Tim
What Model?
How far along is the project?
Where is it located?
How much?
Are you the orginal owner?
Thanks
Ed
--- "Timothy L. Howard" <escapeharbor@compuserve.com>
wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Timothy L.
> Howard" <escapeharbor@compuserve.com>
>
> If anyone is interested in a Kit Fox which is
> partially completed, please
> contact us. Our home phone is 215-491-5567
>
> Sincerely,
> Tim Howard
>
> Please see attachment for more information
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel Sight Gauges |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Gilliatt <jim.gilliatt@att.net>
I haven't done much talking, but I am listening and learning a whole bunch.
I have a friend with a Kitfox III, and he likes my fuel sight gauges.
He wants to know if
anyone has ever adapted the Series 7 type fuel sight gauges to a Model
III. Maybe the
approach would be to adapt tanks that already have that feature built
into it.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Jim Gilliatt Series 7 in-progress
Message 16
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| Subject: | Firewall Insulation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kerry Skyring" <kerryskyring@hotmail.com>
Gary wrote..
Also, what kind of seal is best between the firewall and cowl. I
>have a couple of places where I have a 1/2" gap.
Gary there are a number of rubber seals designed to do this job and I think
you would find one that
sealed a 1/2" gap. Some go round corners better than others and some have
aluminium reinforcing.
Skystar and Aircraft Spruce sell them. I think it's pretty important to get
a good seal between the firewall and cowl otherwise you're going to be
breathing engine fumes. What's difficult is getting them to stick to the
stainless steel. We tried a variety of glues and I think in the end settled
on a good quality silicon.
Kerry
S5 Outback 912ULS
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Gil,
I make sure that the gap between the firewall and cowl is completely sealed
- I use a variety if closed cell foam and rubber to make this as tight as
possible as this is the major source of cold air. The next area is the doors
and once again a use conventional door sealing rubber stripping to close up
any gaps here. Another area I have found is the gaps around the bungees
which I stuff with Foam rubber and Duct tape in place.
Lastly the fit between the bottom of the sides if the fiberglass boot cowl
leak a lot of air and I just carefully use some aluminum duct tape to seal
off this area.
This is all for winter flying and the majority comes off in summer. Finding
the air leakage can be quite difficult as you can only feel it when flying
and it's usually coming from somewhere beyond your reach or under the panel
but it is worth the work as a 1/8" crack let's in a lot of cold air at 90
mph - a damn sight more than that little electric computer fan can push
through the Earle's heater rad.
You also need to make sure that you keep your water temp around 170 deg as
this has a huge effect on the BTU's produced. I use aluminum tape on the
front of the external rad to control water temp.
Gary A
Lite2/582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gill Levesque
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Gary'
Can you elaborate on sealing the cabin!!!
Gil Levesque
Message 18
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
I would like to add to this. By the way they are very good suggestions. One
you can use heater hose sliced down one side and put over the firewall at
the top to the cowl, sometimes it bends the firewall, but so what the gap is
closed. Next hit that area at the wing to cockpit area, last year I used
clear packing tape, sealed off real good. I plan on doing a permanent fix
by using either clear plastic like on boat covers or leather and use Velcro
to hold it on, that way in the summer you rip it off and store it. On the
bungees, I would permanently seal those off, in the summer the heater will
shoot hot air on those and into the cockpit and roast ya. My fix for that
will be spring gear. Now for the heater system in the winter, I saw a guy
put ducting off the coolant radiator, if you have one directly under the
kitfox, mine is the 912 so mine is inline with the underbody. Duct it and
put a flap on it and drill holes in the floor and then in one position the
air runs through the cooler and into the cab. When you don't want warm air
you pull the flap up and it seals the floor and the cooler runs to the
outside. Keep the ducking to the center section so you can use clear duct
tape and seal off the sides to help in cooling or should I say raise the
temp in the winter time. I also use the clear duct tape to seal off the
elevator gap on the horizontal. This one is so it flies better.
Hope this helps
steve a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Algate
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Gil,
I make sure that the gap between the firewall and cowl is completely sealed
- I use a variety if closed cell foam and rubber to make this as tight as
possible as this is the major source of cold air. The next area is the doors
and once again a use conventional door sealing rubber stripping to close up
any gaps here. Another area I have found is the gaps around the bungees
which I stuff with Foam rubber and Duct tape in place.
Lastly the fit between the bottom of the sides if the fiberglass boot cowl
leak a lot of air and I just carefully use some aluminum duct tape to seal
off this area.
This is all for winter flying and the majority comes off in summer. Finding
the air leakage can be quite difficult as you can only feel it when flying
and it's usually coming from somewhere beyond your reach or under the panel
but it is worth the work as a 1/8" crack let's in a lot of cold air at 90
mph - a damn sight more than that little electric computer fan can push
through the Earle's heater rad.
You also need to make sure that you keep your water temp around 170 deg as
this has a huge effect on the BTU's produced. I use aluminum tape on the
front of the external rad to control water temp.
Gary A
Lite2/582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gill Levesque
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Gary'
Can you elaborate on sealing the cabin!!!
Gil Levesque
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Oakley" <joakley@ida.net>
,
Hi guys,
I don,t like to see any fabrics on the engine side, like the origional quilt
materials sold
by skystar.They age and become oil traps and then fire traps. you can use a
rubber u channel
from spruce or wicks over the edge of the firewall itself. Then use a 1/2
inch or larger foam
weather stripping attached to the coweling. this allows the firewall to
settle into the foam
and even out the high and low space. stops all venting into the cockpit.
John Oakley
model 4 speedster
912ul nsi prop
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Prop Failure - October Update |
07:22:41 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
In mid August I put a posting on this forum regarding an incident where a
blade departed in flight from my NSI CAP 140 electric prop. I had suggested
NSI post a notice, however, they wanted more time to investigate. Despite
making me unpopular with NSI, who has promised to address my particular
problem, I submitted the posting. A member of this forum suggested I also
notify someone on the Europa forum, as several of their members were
running the same prop engine combination (Rotax 912S and NSI CAP 140). I
contacted their safety officer, who informed me there was a similar
incident in the UK in 2002, and the PFA (UK equivalent of the EAA), had
investigated and issued a notice to their members. The owner returned his
prop to NSI and they replaced the cuff with an upgraded part. Even though I
was talking with NSI about increased vibration and grease seepage BEFORE my
incident Lance did not mention that an upgraded cuff was available. When I
contacted them after I learned of the PFA report, he indicated the owner
had suffered a prop strike, which may have been the cause of the crack. I
contacted the owner of the plane in the UK by phone and learned he had
never had a prop strike. NSI has confirmed that my prop had the older
cuff. NSI also indicated that the slipper clutch could have potentially
prevented my incident, since it reduces torsional vibration. I have since
learned that the UK owner had a slipper clutch for the entire time he ran
the prop on the 912S. I have once again suggested NSI contact their
customers about the failure and the upgrade. Several weeks have passed
since I did that and they have still not responded, hence the reason for
this posting. I have seen several threads on this forum indicating people
are interested in upgrading to the Rotax 913S, and I am very concerned this
could happen again.
If you are running a CAP 140 prop on a Rotax 912S I would suggest that you
find out if you have the upgraded cuff. The owner in the UK has operated
the upgraded prop for more than 500 hours now on the 912S with no problems.
His prop failed with almost the same number of hours on the 912S as mine
did with the original cuff.
A copy of the PFA notification is available on
http://www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox in the prop failure folder. If anyone
would like to communicate with the owner in the UK, let me know and I will
pass on his email address.
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
Aug 18 Posting--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kitfoxjunky"
<kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
On June 26 I departed Brantford Ontario in my Kitfox IV Anphib for Baker
Valley airport, a remote airport that was having an informal flyin. On
board I had camping gear and my 12 year old daughter. We had a good time
and returned the following day, fighting a 20 knot head wind most of the
way home. After fueling up in Brampton, near Toronto, we turned South
towards Brantford. Making the turn meant we would finally get a
tailwind..............
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
Message 21
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
John,
I ordered the Pennzoil Motorcycle oil from our local CarQuest automotive
parts store.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
kerrjohna@comcast.net wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
>with all that has been written about the recommended oils, I went on a quest to
locate either the "highly" recommended Pennzoil or Shell motorcycle oil. From
one of the marketing spectrum to the other (Walmart to Harley) private branding
was the norm. Lots of opportunities to try Yamalube, suzukislick, or Hondastuff.
>
>where have you guys found the recommended oils other than Mobil 1 that is readily
available?
>
>John Kerr
>
>with all that has been written about the recommended oils, I went on a quest to
locate either the "highly" recommended Pennzoil or Shell motorcycle oil. From
one of the marketing spectrum to the other (Walmart to Harley) private brandingwas
the norm. Lots of opportunities to try Yamalube, suzukislick, or Hondastuff.
>
>where have you guys found the recommended oils other than Mobil 1 that is readily
available?
>
>John Kerr
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/20/04 4:13:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, joakley@ida.net
writes:
<< Hi guys,
I don,t like to see any fabrics on the engine side, like the origional quilt
materials sold
by skystar.They age and become oil traps and then fire traps. you can use a
rubber u channel
from spruce or wicks over the edge of the firewall itself. Then use a 1/2
inch or larger foam >>
Do Not Archive
Amen
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: tire/tube life |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "david yeamans" <dafox@ckt.net>
Hello Charlie,
Chance's are you will wear out your tires before the life goes out of
them.
Before I retired, I built homes and bought Lmbr and building mtrls.
from Youngs Lmbr co. Doug Young finally retired and sold out. He had
a flat bed truck he delivered heavy loads of lmbr daily. He told me that he
had that truck for 25 years and still had the same tires and never had a flat.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: BROSCHART
To: fox2
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 5:03 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: tire/tube life
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: BROSCHART <cfbflyer@localnet.com>
my tires still have a little tread but are 8 years old
i'm wondering if it is advisable to replace them or are they serviceable
until they are bald
the tubes don't leak but i worry that they might leak and cause a
landing problem some day
any one know what the safe life of tires/tubes is
Have a good day - Charlie
Message 24
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Seal-Send-Time: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 21:31:19 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
John,
I like the idea of no blanket on the engine side, but I am thinking I need some
sound deadening and fire resistance. Would you suggest putting something on
the back side of the firewall?
Spruce sells several different products for the purpose. Does anyone have preferences?
Dave S.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Oakley<mailto:joakley@ida.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 6:09 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: firewall
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Oakley" <joakley@ida.net<mailto:joakley@ida.net>>
,
Hi guys,
I don,t like to see any fabrics on the engine side, like the origional quilt
materials sold
by skystar.They age and become oil traps and then fire traps. you can use a
rubber u channel
from spruce or wicks over the edge of the firewall itself. Then use a 1/2
inch or larger foam
weather stripping attached to the coweling. this allows the firewall to
settle into the foam
and even out the high and low space. stops all venting into the cockpit.
John Oakley
model 4 speedster
912ul nsi prop
Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I used Fiberfax on my cowl around the exhaust/turbo.
Fiberfax is very good for heat/fire control, but it is
way too easily damaged to use as a top coat. It needs
something over it to protect it. I used some of that
"heat barrier - adhesive backed" material over it, but
even then you need to bond the edges with something
strong, or it will peel.
I have the NSI provided blanket on my firewall. It
covers both sides on top and the engine side on the
bottom. It does almost seal the firewall to cowl, but
I filled in a few small gaps. I wonder if Scotchguard
would keep it clean and dry of oil? So far my oil
burping problem hasn't soaked into it.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- David Savener <david_savener@msn.com> wrote:
> John,
>
> I like the idea of no blanket on the engine side,
> but I am thinking I need some sound deadening and
> fire resistance. Would you suggest putting
> something on the back side of the firewall?
>
>
> Spruce sells several different products for the
> purpose. Does anyone have preferences?
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Prop Failure - October Update |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Gary,
We appreciate your keeping us up to date on this. Is
there a good way to determine if we have the old or
new prop flanges? I would like to inspect mine, if
possible for them. Widh I knew about this before I
rebuilt it last Spring.
Kurt S. S-5 w/NSI-soob & CAP prop
--- kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com> wrote:
> In mid August I put a posting on this forum
> regarding an incident where a blade departed in
> flight from my NSI CAP 140 electric prop.
> ............
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
Message 27
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Seal-Send-Time: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 21:35:26 -0600
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Kurt haven't your put in a burp can yet?
Dee Young
N345DY
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: kurt schrader<mailto:smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: firewall
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com<mailto:smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>>
I used Fiberfax on my cowl around the exhaust/turbo.
Fiberfax is very good for heat/fire control, but it is
way too easily damaged to use as a top coat. It needs
something over it to protect it. I used some of that
"heat barrier - adhesive backed" material over it, but
even then you need to bond the edges with something
strong, or it will peel.
I have the NSI provided blanket on my firewall. It
covers both sides on top and the engine side on the
bottom. It does almost seal the firewall to cowl, but
I filled in a few small gaps. I wonder if Scotchguard
would keep it clean and dry of oil? So far my oil
burping problem hasn't soaked into it.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- David Savener <david_savener@msn.com<mailto:david_savener@msn.com>> wrote:
> John,
>
> I like the idea of no blanket on the engine side,
> but I am thinking I need some sound deadening and
> fire resistance. Would you suggest putting
> something on the back side of the firewall?
>
>
> Spruce sells several different products for the
> purpose. Does anyone have preferences?
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com<http://vote.yahoo.com/>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Fire wall Insulation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 07:12 PM 10/20/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>What's difficult is getting them to stick to the
>stainless steel. We tried a variety of glues and I think in the end settled
>on a good quality silicon.
Thanks Kerry. Would it be better to stick the seals to the cowling?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fire wall Insulation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 07:48 AM 10/20/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>you will certainly feel the difference. I had some gaps a lot less than 1/2"
>and almost froze to death during the first winter.
Darn. I though you might get a little cabin heat out of it.
> I ended up using some
>sheet rubber cut into strips that I attached to the upper edge of the
>firewall and
>sealed all the gaps between the firewall and cowl (Like standard baffling you
>see on a certified aircooled engine around the jugs)
That's what I was thinking, though I didn't really like the aesthetics.
Thanks.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 30
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:09 PM 10/20/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>you can use a
>rubber u channel
>from spruce or wicks over the edge of the firewall itself. Then use a 1/2
>inch or larger foam
>weather stripping attached to the coweling.
Now I assume all of this has to be fire proof; or am I wrong? Would it be
better to use some kind of fire-sleeve as the gasket?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
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