Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - Re: Paint - Need to clear coat (Larry Huntley)
2. 05:53 AM - Re: windshield problems (Gary Algate)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: windshield problems (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: windshield problems (Larry Huntley)
5. 07:16 AM - Fuel filters (Gill Levesque)
6. 08:01 AM - Re: Fuel filters (Clifford Begnaud)
7. 08:03 AM - Re: Fuel filters (Clifford Begnaud)
8. 08:42 AM - Re: Paint - Need to clear coat (kurt schrader)
9. 08:49 AM - Re: Coating on Inside of Cowl (W Duke)
10. 09:37 AM - Re: Aerocomp floats (Joel Mapes)
11. 02:19 PM - IVO prop (customtrans@qwest.net)
12. 02:23 PM - Re: IVO prop (Gary Algate)
13. 02:39 PM - Re: New Jabiru engine (Michel Verheughe)
14. 06:03 PM - Re: IVO prop (Lowell Fitt)
15. 06:06 PM - Re: Fall in Norway! (EMAproducts@aol.com)
16. 06:20 PM - Re: IVO prop (Floran Higgins)
17. 06:47 PM - Re: Coating on Inside of Cowl To David Estapa (Ceashman@aol.com)
18. 07:26 PM - Re: Coating on Inside of Cowl (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Paint - Need to clear coat |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
Steve,
That is what I would ask Norm about. I wouldn't be surprised if you might
have to wait for a while,even if only a couple of days. Call him and ask
him. Don't mess up your paint job with my amateur advice!! Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Paint - Need to clear coat
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> Thanks, I'll do that.
> also I would like to paint that aerothane right after the poly paint.
>
> steve a
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
> Huntley
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Paint - Need to clear coat
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
>
> That is more or less what I did,finished off w/ Polytone and sprayed 1
cross
> coat of Aerothane much later. You do need to clean it REAL well and add a
> mist coat first to make it stick. Be sure to read the manual carefully
> before Aerothaneing. I would call Norm Douthit if you have any questions.
He
> taught for Stets and then for Polyfiber and now that he is retired ,has a
> Polyfiber business of his own. He will talk you through any problems
whether
> you bought from him or not and won't pressure you to buy like some
outfits.
> His tollfree number is 888-811-2232. He is in So Cal and business is in
his
> home. He doesn't mind a call anytime. No strict business hours. Tell him
> Larry Huntley from NY sent you.
>
> Larry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Paint - Need to clear coat
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
> >
> > are you saying that for the first couple coats, use the polycoat and
then
> on
> > the final, put on the aerothane. Sounds a lots cheaper doing that
route.
> > Just asking because I like the shinny and I have to redo the entire
> airplane
> > covering.
> >
> > steve a
> > for those who know it...
> > 90ty
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Don
Do you overdrill the hole size to allow clearance for rivet expansion? - I
drill about 0.020" oversize
(Assuming you use rivets)
Also, I use cheap hardware aluminum rivets for attaching my windscreen as I
found the aircraft quality rivets pull too hard and compress the lexan
causing cracking.
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>
It must be me....I've used sharp bits, dull bits, new bits, old bits, broken
bits, backup plates, soldering irons, punches, grinding stones, countersink
bits, lubricants, slow speed, high speed, ultra high speed, hand drilling
screws, pot rivets and even put bits in the drill backwards. My lexan
cracks around
all the bolt holes.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
<<
Don
Do you overdrill the hole size to allow clearance for rivet expansion? - I
drill about 0.020" oversize
(Assuming you use rivets) >>
Yes, I overdrill the holes and, I use screws instead of rivets. Larry
Huntley called the other night and pointed out a possible cause. I might be
tightening the screws too much. Maybe I should just run them down to where they
meet
the Lexan and stop. On the other hand, rivets are much tighter than I ever
make my screws? I'm going for the fiberglass top and transition area the next
time I change screens. This will allow for quick change of the front
windshield and I can get several from one sheet. I think it will save weight also.
I
believe the fiberglass turns out lighter than the Lexan.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Do Not Archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: windshield problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
Good points,Gary. 1/16" oversize for holes under 1/4" is normal for acrylic
and probably the same would work for polycarbonate for bolts or rivets. The
thermal expansion properties of these materials is great. The oversize hole
pretty much eliminates this problem . I have found the same thing w/
rivets. The softer the better. If you need more strength,better to use
screws or bolts
Larry Huntley,Kitfox 4-1200,EA81,Dundee,NY,USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: windshield problems
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
> Don
>
> Do you overdrill the hole size to allow clearance for rivet expansion? - I
> drill about 0.020" oversize
>
> (Assuming you use rivets)
>
> Also, I use cheap hardware aluminum rivets for attaching my windscreen as
I
> found the aircraft quality rivets pull too hard and compress the lexan
> causing cracking.
>
> Gary Algate
> Lite2/582
>
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Hey all Canadian listers,
Can you tell me where I could find the GLASS PUROLATOR FILTERS in Canada??? Thanks
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel filters |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gill Levesque" <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fuel filters
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
>
> Hey all Canadian listers,
>
> Can you tell me where I could find the GLASS PUROLATOR FILTERS in
> Canada??? Thanks
>
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
>
>
> Still alive and flyin!!!!
>
> Gil
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel filters |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Sorry I replied to this once without any content.
If you can't find them in Canada, you can order them from JC Whitney. Here's
the link:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-1675/c-10101
They don't have the Purolator label but work fine for me.
Cliff
> Hey all Canadian listers,
>
> Can you tell me where I could find the GLASS PUROLATOR FILTERS in
> Canada??? Thanks
>
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
>
>
> Still alive and flyin!!!!
>
> Gil
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Paint - Need to clear coat |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
My experience has been that the Polytone changes color
slightly as it cures. This can take a week or so. I
used glacial white, which is more yellow when new.
When I clear coated over the polytone, it remained
more yellow than the rest of the plane and didn't cure
to the white of the uncoated polytone.
Maybe only I would notice though. My maroon parts
don't match either due to different batches. It looks
very obvious to me, but others don't see it until I
point it out.
Kurt S.
--- Larry Huntley <asq1@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Steve,
> That is what I would ask Norm about. I wouldn't be
> surprised if you might
> have to wait for a while,even if only a couple of
> days. Call him and ask
> him. Don't mess up your paint job with my amateur
> advice!! Larry
__________________________________
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Coating on Inside of Cowl |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
I didn't use anything inside the cowl.
Maxwell
David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa
I'm painting the cowl and wonder what's been used inside the cowl. I have
a S5, 912S, and smooth cowl. Any help will be appreciated.
David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
S5 TD N97DE
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aerocomp floats |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <foxfloatflyer@hotmail.com>
Kurt,
I'll let you know as soon as I find out. :) My project is still under
construction. I just removed a Rotax 912A with 50 hours in favor of a 912ULS
for the extra horsepower based on Edo's float performance calculator. If you
know of anyone looking for a 912, point them my way. My Nanaimo experience
was in a fine 'ol '59 straight tail Cessna 172.
Joel
Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
People,
I'm considering putting the ivo prop on the kitfox when I get done
rebuilding it. The questions I have are: how does it perform next to the
powerfin 3 blade, that's the prop I had on it before. Is it hard to set up
or can I set it to a certain setting and go for it. I want the electric
adjust and looks like the model 72 is the one I'll be using. I have the
kitfox4 1200 with rotax 912ul 80. Next question, if I were to go to the
912s in the future, would this be the wrong prop. thanks.
steve a
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
The IVO in flight adjustable is a good choice especially if you are
considering engine changes as the variable pitch allows you to trim
accordingly for the RPM and HP requirements
Gary A
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>
People,
I'm considering putting the ivo prop on the kitfox when I get done
rebuilding it. The questions I have are: how does it perform next to the
powerfin 3 blade, that's the prop I had on it before. Is it hard to set up
or can I set it to a certain setting and go for it. I want the electric
adjust and looks like the model 72 is the one I'll be using. I have the
kitfox4 1200 with rotax 912ul 80. Next question, if I were to go to the
912s in the future, would this be the wrong prop. thanks.
<<<<<<<<<<
steve a
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: New Jabiru engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
kurt schrader wrote:
> Your weather looks about like it did here when I came
> back from seeing my dad.
Thanks Don and Kurt. Nature is beautiful anywhere when conditions are right. I
grew up in Brussels, a big town and I don't regret I moved to Norway ... except
for the beer, of course! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Steve,
I don't know if anyone has gone from one to the other, but I have some
anecdotal info that might help. A couple of guys in our flying group went
to the PowerFin. One from the GSC - wood and the other from a Warp. Both
saw performance decrease. The factory suggested shortening the prop. The
GSC guy went back to his wooden prop and the other guy liked his PowerFin
because it had great climb and he was able to adjust for adequate cruise,
but still not as good as his Warp.
Maybe someone can talk of the difference between Warp or GSC and the IVO,
but my guess based on what I hear, you won't be disappointed with the IVO.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: IVO prop
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> People,
> I'm considering putting the ivo prop on the kitfox when I get done
> rebuilding it. The questions I have are: how does it perform next to the
> powerfin 3 blade, that's the prop I had on it before. Is it hard to set up
> or can I set it to a certain setting and go for it. I want the electric
> adjust and looks like the model 72 is the one I'll be using. I have the
> kitfox4 1200 with rotax 912ul 80. Next question, if I were to go to the
> 912s in the future, would this be the wrong prop. thanks.
>
> steve a
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fall in Norway! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: EMAproducts@aol.com
A
> fantastic week-end and a beautiful trip in gorgeous
> autumnal Norwegian nature!
Michel, Photo looks very similar to our fall here in the NW US, except the
fog & drizzle has been heavier!
Elbie
WA State
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
The 912UL has a different prop hub than the 912ULS. The same prop will not
fit both engines.
Floran H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: IVO prop
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
> The IVO in flight adjustable is a good choice especially if you are
> considering engine changes as the variable pitch allows you to trim
> accordingly for the RPM and HP requirements
>
> Gary A
> Lite2/582
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> People,
> I'm considering putting the ivo prop on the kitfox when I get done
> rebuilding it. The questions I have are: how does it perform next to the
> powerfin 3 blade, that's the prop I had on it before. Is it hard to set up
> or can I set it to a certain setting and go for it. I want the electric
> adjust and looks like the model 72 is the one I'll be using. I have the
> kitfox4 1200 with rotax 912ul 80. Next question, if I were to go to the
> 912s in the future, would this be the wrong prop. thanks.
> <<<<<<<<<<
> steve a
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Coating on Inside of Cowl To David Estapa |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa
-->I'm painting the cowl and wonder what's been used inside the cowl. I have
-->a S5, 912S, and smooth cowl. Any help will be appreciated.
Hi David.
My suggestion would be:
Use a low gloss black polyurethane. 1/It looks good over the fiberglass.
2/Being polyurethane, it
will not get harmed with fuel
or oils
3/Being black, it will
absorb heat from the
engine. Keeping the motor cooler. You do not want
to paint the inside white.
Greetings. Eric Ashman
Message 18
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| Subject: | Coating on Inside of Cowl |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I would put an epoxy sealer on it. Just makes clean up and any future mods
easier.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of W Duke
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Coating on Inside of Cowl
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
I didn't use anything inside the cowl.
Maxwell
David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa
I'm painting the cowl and wonder what's been used inside the cowl. I have
a S5, 912S, and smooth cowl. Any help will be appreciated.
David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
S5 TD N97DE
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/ month - visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
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