Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - SV: Re: radiator and cooling (Michel Verheughe)
2. 12:43 AM - SV: Re: radiator and cooling (Michel Verheughe)
3. 12:44 AM - Re: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress report (Jim Carriere)
4. 12:50 AM - SV: Completion of N854JB - Series 6 912S (Michel Verheughe)
5. 03:41 AM - Re: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress report (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
6. 03:49 AM - Re: SV: Re: radiator and cooling (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
7. 05:22 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (Clifford Begnaud)
8. 06:18 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (W Duke)
9. 07:19 AM - Re: SV: Re: radiator and cooling (Paul)
10. 07:24 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (Clifford Begnaud)
11. 07:31 AM - Re: Weights ()
12. 09:02 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (jdmcbean)
13. 09:11 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (Kaufjm@aol.com)
14. 09:44 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (jdmcbean)
15. 10:46 AM - series 7 performance (Ackerman Laurens)
16. 11:03 AM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (Clifford Begnaud)
17. 12:24 PM - Smart Tool level (Lynn Matteson)
18. 01:18 PM - Re: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress report (Jim Crockett)
19. 01:41 PM - Re: Weights (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
20. 02:01 PM - Re: Smart Tool level (Clifford Begnaud)
21. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: radiator and cooling (George Wells)
22. 03:45 PM - Re: Smart Tool level (Don Pearsall)
23. 04:37 PM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (STEPHEN ZAKRESKI)
24. 04:50 PM - Re: Wing attach Pin? (kurt schrader)
25. 05:24 PM - Re: Smart Tool level (Lynn Matteson)
26. 05:54 PM - Re: Smart Tool level (Flier)
27. 06:23 PM - Re: Smart Tool level (Brett Walmsley)
28. 06:55 PM - Skystar (Kirk Martenson)
29. 07:01 PM - Re: Skystar (Don Pearsall)
30. 10:31 PM - Re: Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 11/01/04 (Guy Buchanan)
31. 10:31 PM - Re: A New Temperature Control System (Guy Buchanan)
32. 10:31 PM - Re: Re: radiator and cooling (Guy Buchanan)
33. 10:31 PM - Re: SV: Re: radiator and cooling (Guy Buchanan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> IMHO, a bad idea. If you close water off to the radiator (bypass valve), the
> water in the radiator will get very cold.
Ok, Don and Torgeir, you've got a point. I was expecting it to be a bad idea because
if it wasn't, it would already be standard equipment on all aircraft. Now
I know why it isn't.
The reason I was asking is that, with my Jabiru oil cooler, I don't have the room
to install a cowl flap. At least, not if I install the cooler as recommended,
i.e. right under the front of the engine, facing the inlet. There will be only
millimeters between the cowl inlet and the cooler.
I guess, in winter, I'll have to do like the other guys: a duct tape to mask part
of the cooler.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: William J. Applegate [bigapple@gct21.net]
> I've mentioned this before. Wouldn't a manual bypass valve setup work
> elegantly and simply for regulating temperature?
Aha! So it was you, Bill! I knew I read the idea somewhere before. (that's the
problem with being old and on too many different lists! :-)
Well, it looks like a bad idea because the water (or the oil, in my case) would
get too cold in the radiator (cooler). The idea is then: Let the fluid circulate
but prevent it from cooling.
Cheers,
Michel
PS: Maybe you don't like to be called Bill. I'd love to call you Mr Apple since
I am a big fan of the Macintosh computer! :-)
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress report |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
> From: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress
> report
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
> <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
> John King called in tonight to report that the flight of two made
> it from
> the Miami coast to the small town of Congo Town, Andros Island.
> The crew are
> now settling down with a mai tai along the white beaches of the
> Bahamas.
Hmm, I've landed at Androstown on that island- about a 4000' paved
strip, very rough surface and about half a dozen wrecked small
planes. next to the runway. That part is surreal- some of the
wrecks have grass growing through them. The FBO there was not built
with glass on all the windows, it is open air. I don't even
remember if the doors lock. There is a customs that is open a few
hours a week, making it an international airport.
I haven't seen the southern part of the island where the two landed,
so I'm not familiar with Congo Town.
By the way folks, Andros Island is the largest Bahamian island,
although it is sparsely populated and not the tourist part of the
Bahamas you see in travel brochures. There is a deep (6000ft) water
military range barely offshore on the northeast side, and apparently
the third largest coral reef less than a mile (within kayak range)
off shore on that same side. Great snorkeling, and very cheap
libations!
Jim in NW Florida
S7 in progress
__________________________________
www.yahoo.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Completion of N854JB - Series 6 912S |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: jdmcbean [jdmcbean@cableone.net]
> Congrats !!.... Now you really begin to have fun... By the way.. there
is
> such a thing as a Kitfox addiction.. You'll get it.....
Kitfox addiction? Like ... when you have a brand new engine you're dying to install,
yet you fear to remove the old one, just in case there might be a nice day
when the sky is calling you ... you can't resist ... just ten minutes ... five
... you just have to! :-)
Congrats, John! Have a long and happy relation with your plane.
Michel
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress report |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
<< Bahamas you see in travel brochures. There is a deep (6000ft) water
military range barely offshore on the northeast side, and apparently >>
I've been to Andros several times. Back during my work days, we would
take new Submarines on sea trials to Andros Island. We would spend about 3 days
in that 6000' hole doing sonar and sound checks. The water conditions were
great for testing. Then we would transfer off the Sub and fly back to Florida
for mucho party time.
I don't miss it.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 11/3/04 12:37:40 AM Pacific Standard Time,
michel@online.no writes:
<< The reason I was asking is that, with my Jabiru oil cooler, I don't have
the room to install a cowl flap. At least, not if I install the cooler as
recommended, i.e. right under the front of the engine, facing t >>
Michel,
I'm finishing up my cowl mods and part of the mod was to close off a
small area in the bottom of the round cowl opening. I drew a line across the
bottom of the front opening at about the 4:00 o'clock and 8:00 positions. Boxed
it in with a 2" scat tube outlet that connects to the heat muff on the
muffler. Something like this might work for your oil cooler. You might be able
to
place the oil cooler down low in the front of the cowl and have the box feed
it. Maybe even a side exhaust to remove the heat. Have the side exhaust
open/close like a cowl door.
Don't know what the Jab installation looks like but, just a thought
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Thanks John,
I'm just surprised that it is an AN part and not NAS. Are you certain?
One more part question: the trim actuator switch on the model 5, is it a
momentary, double pole switch? I found a switch with that description at
Aircraft Spruce and was considering buying it to replace the one on my
plane.
Thanks for your assistance.
Cliff
do not archive
>
> Cliff,
> I believe it is a AN395-85 Clevis Pin... I think I went with a -87
> because
> the -85 is very close to being to short.....
>
> Blue Skies
> John & Debra McBean
> www.sportplanellc.com
> "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
Cliff,
Maxwell Duke here. Not to jump in, but if you have not cleaned the contacts
in the trim switch it can cause a problem. I have had mine stop functioning
twice in 300 hours. It dissassembles easily but has some small springs inside
so be careful. A little grease to help hold things together for reassembly is
helpful also. The last time I cleaned it I did not even detach the wires.
I think the switch is a double-pole double-throw momentary on switch. It is
made by Eaton. Previously Cutler Hammer.
Sorry if I butted in or this is irrelevant to your problem.
Maxwell
Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
Thanks John,
I'm just surprised that it is an AN part and not NAS. Are you certain?
One more part question: the trim actuator switch on the model 5, is it a
momentary, double pole switch? I found a switch with that description at
Aircraft Spruce and was considering buying it to replace the one on my
plane.
Thanks for your assistance.
Cliff
do not archive
>
> Cliff,
> I believe it is a AN395-85 Clevis Pin... I think I went with a -87
> because
> the -85 is very close to being to short.....
>
> Blue Skies
> John & Debra McBean
> www.sportplanellc.com
> "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
Michel,
Lockwood sells a thermostat that some are using for the oil cooler. Several are
using it with no negative reports. Should be easy to plumb into the Jab oil
system. Lucky you, the water stat is more of an issue.
Paul
=========
At 9:36 AM +0100 11/3/04, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>> From: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>> IMHO, a bad idea. If you close water off to the radiator (bypass valve), the
>> water in the radiator will get very cold.
>
>Ok, Don and Torgeir, you've got a point. I was expecting it to be a bad idea because
if it wasn't, it would already be standard equipment on all aircraft. Now
I know why it isn't.
>
>The reason I was asking is that, with my Jabiru oil cooler, I don't have the room
to install a cowl flap. At least, not if I install the cooler as recommended,
i.e. right under the front of the engine, facing the inlet. There will be
only millimeters between the cowl inlet and the cooler.
>I guess, in winter, I'll have to do like the other guys: a duct tape to mask part
of the cooler.
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
--
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Thanks Maxwell,
I appreciate your input. I'll try to clean the switch.
Cliff
do not archive
>
> Cliff,
> Maxwell Duke here. Not to jump in, but if you have not cleaned the
> contacts in the trim switch it can cause a problem. I have had mine stop
> functioning twice in 300 hours. It dissassembles easily but has some
> small springs inside so be careful. A little grease to help hold things
> together for reassembly is helpful also. The last time I cleaned it I
> did not even detach the wires. I think the switch is a double-pole
> double-throw momentary on switch. It is made by Eaton. Previously Cutler
> Hammer.
> Sorry if I butted in or this is irrelevant to your problem.
>
> Maxwell
>
> Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
>
> Thanks John,
> I'm just surprised that it is an AN part and not NAS. Are you certain?
> One more part question: the trim actuator switch on the model 5, is it a
> momentary, double pole switch? I found a switch with that description at
> Aircraft Spruce and was considering buying it to replace the one on my
> plane.
> Thanks for your assistance.
> Cliff
> do not archive
>
>
>>
>> Cliff,
>> I believe it is a AN395-85 Clevis Pin... I think I went with a -87
>> because
>> the -85 is very close to being to short.....
>>
>> Blue Skies
>> John & Debra McBean
>> www.sportplanellc.com
>> "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <av8rps@tznet.com>
Thanks Don. I appreciate you taking the time to do that. Pretty light
turtledeck. Did you by chance post pics of it on sportflight?
Paul Seehafer
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Weights
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> Someone asked a couple weeks ago about the weights of my fiberglass
> turtledeck. Today, I finally got around to weighing the turtledeck, my
> new bottom rad
> cowl and tried to weigh the tailwheel with the wings folded back.
> However,
> the calibrated digital scales I was using would only go to 150 lbs. The
> tailwheel is heavier than 150 lbs with the wings folded. Other weights
> are as
> follows:
>
> Fiberglass Turtledeck: 5.6 lbs.
> Bottom rad/gear cowl: 7.4 lbs.
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Yes.. I am sure about the pin. Others have already told you about the
switch... I would try that before ordering a new one...
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clifford Begnaud
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wing attach Pin?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
<shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Thanks John,
I'm just surprised that it is an AN part and not NAS. Are you certain?
One more part question: the trim actuator switch on the model 5, is it a
momentary, double pole switch? I found a switch with that description at
Aircraft Spruce and was considering buying it to replace the one on my
plane.
Thanks for your assistance.
Cliff
do not archive
>
> Cliff,
> I believe it is a AN395-85 Clevis Pin... I think I went with a -87
> because
> the -85 is very close to being to short.....
>
> Blue Skies
> John & Debra McBean
> www.sportplanellc.com
> "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Kaufjm@aol.com
I have a Kitfox IV and was wondering if I could use a threaded bolt instead
of the pin in my wing . I am not going to fold my wings that often. Also the
pin that came with the kit seems like it could be just a little longer too.
Thoughts?
Jon
Message 14
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| Subject: | Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
You could absolutely use a bolt.. Follow the same procedure as the aft spar
attach bolt. Yes, I to thought the pin was a little short.... I used the
next size up.
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kaufjm@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wing attach Pin?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Kaufjm@aol.com
I have a Kitfox IV and was wondering if I could use a threaded bolt instead
of the pin in my wing . I am not going to fold my wings that often. Also the
pin that came with the kit seems like it could be just a little longer too.
Thoughts?
Jon
Message 15
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| Subject: | series 7 performance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ackerman Laurens <laurensackerman@mflva.net>
What is the experience of series 7 owners. Are you
able to cruise at 150 mph as claimed by Skystar?
Maximum cruise?
At what conditions, altitude and what type of engine?
Other thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
laurens ackerman
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Ok, thanks again for your help.
Cliff
do not archive
>
> Yes.. I am sure about the pin. Others have already told you about the
> switch... I would try that before ordering a new one...
>
> Blue Skies
> John & Debra McBean
> www.sportplanellc.com
> "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
Message 17
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| Subject: | Smart Tool level |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I'm getting near the point where I'll be needing to do some serious
leveling, and angle checking. I'm a bit confused by the finite degree
of accuracy required by the rigging instructions, namely the 11.4
degrees of angle between the "belly of the aircraft and the #15049
bellcrank"....this is in the Rigging of the Flaperons section of the
building manual for the IV of 1994. The manual suggests that "a Smart
Level is invaluable for this". My question is why does that angle have
to be so darn accurate if the fuselage has been leveled with a simple
bubble level? My thinking is that if this is such a critical angle,
then we'd better be using the Smart Level right from the get-go, hadn't
we? If a bubble level is all right for the leveling of the fuse,
shouldn't a bubble protractor set to 11 or 12 degrees be accurate
enough for the rigging of that bellcrank? What am I missing here?
Second question: In checking out the Smart Tools, I see that they are
available in the whole level, either 24" or 48", with module, or just
as the module alone. I've been told that the module can be used alone,
or placed on a normal 48" level, for instance, but if I were to
purchase the 48" Smart Tool level, that the module cannot be removed,
as it is wired in, and doing so would void the warranty. Anybody up to
speed on these tools?
Lynn
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: John King's Bahamas Trip - Second Progress report |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Crockett <jimc@cybrquest.com>
Don -
As a submariner myself, I can't see why you wouldn't miss it since you
got to airlift off - we were stuck there.
Peace
Jim Crockett - "US Submarine Force - Death From Below"
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
><< Bahamas you see in travel brochures. There is a deep (6000ft) water
> military range barely offshore on the northeast side, and apparently >>
>
> I've been to Andros several times. Back during my work days, we would
>take new Submarines on sea trials to Andros Island. We would spend about 3 days
>in that 6000' hole doing sonar and sound checks. The water conditions were
>great for testing. Then we would transfer off the Sub and fly back to Florida
>for mucho party time.
> I don't miss it.
>Don Smythe
>N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 11/3/04 7:35:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, av8rps@tznet.com
writes:
<<
Thanks Don. I appreciate you taking the time to do that. Pretty light
turtledeck. Did you by chance post pics of it on sportflight?
Paul Seehafer >>
Paul,
No, I didn't. Right now I don't have access to a camera. When I get the
rad and cowl fairings completed, I will borrow the bosses camera. Will take
some of the turtledeck also.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Do Not Archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Smart Tool level |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Lynn,
When you buy a 24" or 48" smart level, the "smart level unit" unscrews and
is easily removed. It can then be used by itself or in other levels that
accept it.
Once you own one of these, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.
I would suggest the 48" level.
Best Regards,
Cliff
>
> Second question: In checking out the Smart Tools, I see that they are
> available in the whole level, either 24" or 48", with module, or just
> as the module alone. I've been told that the module can be used alone,
> or placed on a normal 48" level, for instance, but if I were to
> purchase the 48" Smart Tool level, that the module cannot be removed,
> as it is wired in, and doing so would void the warranty. Anybody up to
> speed on these tools?
>
> Lynn
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "George Wells" <georgewells@adelphia.net>
I think I will start by blocking off about 25% of my radiator, see what the
temps are and go from there !! Now when it's in the mid 40's
with the Radiator Un blocked I run around 150 Deg. F
George
Mod 4 -- 912 UL
Message 22
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| Subject: | Smart Tool level |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Lynn, I will echo what Cliff said. The module in my Smart Level can be
removed easily. Once removed, you must recalibrate it, though. It's easy.
But the gist of your question is DO you need an expensive Smart Level. No
you don't. You can use any tool that will get you a reasonably accurate
measurement, including a bubble protractor. In fact, you should use the same
tool to level the fuselage that you use for all other measurements, as the
angles are in reference to the fuselage. Using two tools to measure could
introduce an error.
I will say that using the smart level to measure takes longer, because then
you will be adjusting everything to be exactly right on, where with an
analog bubble level getting close is good enough.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clifford
Begnaud
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Smart Tool level
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
<shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Lynn,
When you buy a 24" or 48" smart level, the "smart level unit" unscrews and
is easily removed. It can then be used by itself or in other levels that
accept it.
Once you own one of these, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.
I would suggest the 48" level.
Best Regards,
Cliff
>
> Second question: In checking out the Smart Tools, I see that they are
> available in the whole level, either 24" or 48", with module, or just
> as the module alone. I've been told that the module can be used alone,
> or placed on a normal 48" level, for instance, but if I were to
> purchase the 48" Smart Tool level, that the module cannot be removed,
> as it is wired in, and doing so would void the warranty. Anybody up to
> speed on these tools?
>
> Lynn
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: STEPHEN ZAKRESKI <szakreski@shaw.ca>
I use a bolt for both the front and rear wing attach points.
SteveZ
Calgary
Classic IV/NSI/CAP
----- Original Message -----
From: Kaufjm@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Wing attach Pin?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Kaufjm@aol.com
>
> I have a Kitfox IV and was wondering if I could use a threaded
> bolt instead
> of the pin in my wing . I am not going to fold my wings that
> often. Also the
> pin that came with the kit seems like it could be just a little
> longer too.
> Thoughts?
> Jon
>
>
> _-
> _-> _-
> _-
> _-
> =====================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Wing attach Pin? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Just a funny note. When I was going thru my FAA
inspection last year, one of the four inspectors
(yes-4) got to my attachment pins. They were so short
that the safety pin would just barely go thru with no
washer. I didn't see a washer listed in my builders'
manual. I asked him if he thought it needed a washer
and he said yes. As he started writing up this
discrepancy I produced a second set of longer pins
with washers from my pocket and said, "I thought so
too, so I bought these." He scratched off the only
discrepancy noted during the inspection... It was
fun. :-)
Well, not exactly the only discrapancy. All my fuel
drains were plackarded "FULE DRAIN". I told them that
they were "French drains". They still read that way.
Kurt S. S-5 down for its first annual
Do not archive
--- jdmcbean <jdmcbean@cableone.net> wrote:
> You could absolutely use a bolt.. Follow the same
> procedure as the aft spar
> attach bolt. Yes, I to thought the pin was a little
> short.... I used the
> next size up.
>
> Blue Skies
> John & Debra McBean
__________________________________
www.yahoo.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Smart Tool level |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Thanks, Don and Cliff...while I wait for the rest of the votes to come
in and be counted (couldn't resist that one), I'll ask another question
regarding the tool itself. The following was a description found on
Speedpartz.com:
"This model has the SmartTool Module integrated into a special built
24" or 48" rail. The module itself is not removable but this style
provides a compact, durable tool, especially good for a wide variety of
construction applications."
I talked to two vendors today, and both said that the module was not
removable from the level, as it is "wired in". I'd prefer to get the
48" version, if I was to get anything besides just the module. But it
sounds like I could get the module, which would be smaller and easier
to get into tight places (read the fuse of a Kitfox) to do
measurements, and then use it in conjunction with my present 48" bubble
level for the jobs where more room is available. Sears also has the 48"
and 24" item, and I'll call them to see if the module is removable.
Lynn
On Wednesday, November 3, 2004, at 06:45 PM, Don Pearsall wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
> <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
> Lynn, I will echo what Cliff said. The module in my Smart Level can be
> removed easily. Once removed, you must recalibrate it, though. It's
> easy.
>
> But the gist of your question is DO you need an expensive Smart Level.
> No
> you don't. You can use any tool that will get you a reasonably accurate
> measurement, including a bubble protractor. In fact, you should use
> the same
> tool to level the fuselage that you use for all other measurements, as
> the
> angles are in reference to the fuselage. Using two tools to measure
> could
> introduce an error.
>
> I will say that using the smart level to measure takes longer, because
> then
> you will be adjusting everything to be exactly right on, where with an
> analog bubble level getting close is good enough.
>
> Don Pearsall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clifford
> Begnaud
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Smart Tool level
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
> <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>
> Lynn,
> When you buy a 24" or 48" smart level, the "smart level unit" unscrews
> and
> is easily removed. It can then be used by itself or in other levels
> that
> accept it.
> Once you own one of these, you'll wonder how you ever got along
> without it.
> I would suggest the 48" level.
> Best Regards,
> Cliff
>
>>
>> Second question: In checking out the Smart Tools, I see that they are
>> available in the whole level, either 24" or 48", with module, or just
>> as the module alone. I've been told that the module can be used alone,
>> or placed on a normal 48" level, for instance, but if I were to
>> purchase the 48" Smart Tool level, that the module cannot be removed,
>> as it is wired in, and doing so would void the warranty. Anybody up to
>> speed on these tools?
>>
>> Lynn
>>
>>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Smart Tool level |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
I used a bubble level when I built my IV and it flew hands off the first
time.
I have a 24" Smart level I'm using to rig my Nieuport. The only issue I
find is that you can actually screw up easy with the smart level if you're
not paying close attention to what you're doing (ie, just reading the
numbers or listening for the beep) as opposed to using a regular old bubble
level. With the bubble level you do pay attention...
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Smart Tool level
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Thanks, Don and Cliff...while I wait for the rest of the votes to come
in and be counted (couldn't resist that one), I'll ask another question
regarding the tool itself. The following was a description found on
Speedpartz.com:
"This model has the SmartTool Module integrated into a special built
24" or 48" rail. The module itself is not removable but this style
provides a compact, durable tool, especially good for a wide variety of
construction applications."
I talked to two vendors today, and both said that the module was not
removable from the level, as it is "wired in". I'd prefer to get the
48" version, if I was to get anything besides just the module. But it
sounds like I could get the module, which would be smaller and easier
to get into tight places (read the fuse of a Kitfox) to do
measurements, and then use it in conjunction with my present 48" bubble
level for the jobs where more room is available. Sears also has the 48"
and 24" item, and I'll call them to see if the module is removable.
Lynn
On Wednesday, November 3, 2004, at 06:45 PM, Don Pearsall wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
> <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
> Lynn, I will echo what Cliff said. The module in my Smart Level can be
> removed easily. Once removed, you must recalibrate it, though. It's
> easy.
>
> But the gist of your question is DO you need an expensive Smart Level.
> No
> you don't. You can use any tool that will get you a reasonably accurate
> measurement, including a bubble protractor. In fact, you should use
> the same
> tool to level the fuselage that you use for all other measurements, as
> the
> angles are in reference to the fuselage. Using two tools to measure
> could
> introduce an error.
>
> I will say that using the smart level to measure takes longer, because
> then
> you will be adjusting everything to be exactly right on, where with an
> analog bubble level getting close is good enough.
>
> Don Pearsall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clifford
> Begnaud
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Smart Tool level
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
> <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>
> Lynn,
> When you buy a 24" or 48" smart level, the "smart level unit" unscrews
> and
> is easily removed. It can then be used by itself or in other levels
> that
> accept it.
> Once you own one of these, you'll wonder how you ever got along
> without it.
> I would suggest the 48" level.
> Best Regards,
> Cliff
>
>>
>> Second question: In checking out the Smart Tools, I see that they are
>> available in the whole level, either 24" or 48", with module, or just
>> as the module alone. I've been told that the module can be used alone,
>> or placed on a normal 48" level, for instance, but if I were to
>> purchase the 48" Smart Tool level, that the module cannot be removed,
>> as it is wired in, and doing so would void the warranty. Anybody up to
>> speed on these tools?
>>
>> Lynn
>>
>>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Smart Tool level |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
Lynn,
Two words: e-bay, oops I guess that's one word.
Anyway you can find good bargins there on this kind of stuff but as always
be careful who you buy from.
Sears also has a nice "digital Protractor" ($200)that is about 6 inches
long and goes to the tenth of a degree with amazing repeatability. Don't
know how I lived without it. Had to get the first one replaced it was
about .6 degree off all of the time. I will routinely set it on top of my
4' bubble level to keep everyone honest.
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> I'm getting near the point where I'll be needing to do some serious
> leveling, and angle checking. I'm a bit confused by the finite degree
> of accuracy required by the rigging instructions, namely the 11.4
> degrees of angle between the "belly of the aircraft and the #15049
> bellcrank"....this is in the Rigging of the Flaperons section of the
> building manual for the IV of 1994. The manual suggests that "a Smart
> Level is invaluable for this". My question is why does that angle have
> to be so darn accurate if the fuselage has been leveled with a simple
> bubble level? My thinking is that if this is such a critical angle,
> then we'd better be using the Smart Level right from the get-go, hadn't
> we? If a bubble level is all right for the leveling of the fuse,
> shouldn't a bubble protractor set to 11 or 12 degrees be accurate
> enough for the rigging of that bellcrank? What am I missing here?
>
> Second question: In checking out the Smart Tools, I see that they are
> available in the whole level, either 24" or 48", with module, or just
> as the module alone. I've been told that the module can be used alone,
> or placed on a normal 48" level, for instance, but if I were to
> purchase the 48" Smart Tool level, that the module cannot be removed,
> as it is wired in, and doing so would void the warranty. Anybody up to
> speed on these tools?
>
> Lynn
>
>
Message 28
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
Hello:
Does anyone know what happened to the Skystar website?
Did they close down?
Kirk
Message 29
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Try it again, it came right up for me.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kirk Martenson
Subject: Kitfox-List: Skystar
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
Hello:
Does anyone know what happened to the Skystar website?
Did they close down?
Kirk
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 11/01/04 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 11:11 AM 11/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >>>Guy, I think you will find that the liquid cooling is much less sensitive
>and not near as critical, especially as you change power settings, the
>coolant
>keeps the engine components at a fairly constant temp.
This is good to know. I definitely DO NOT want to slay any non-existant
dragons.
>And glad you like to look out the window, prevents mid airs!
>Elbie
>Do not archive
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: A New Temperature Control System |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 08:50 PM 11/2/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
>
>Hi Guy,
>
>No problem, my name is from the old "Viking Saga", and mean something
>like: "Thunderspear".. :)
Yes, but you didn't say how to pronounce it.
>However, the use of multi sensors is an important "fail safe" device. I.E.
>if one sensor fails, the system can still operate in a very smart manner.
Well, I don't want to take away your fun, but how about redundant sensors.
(GD&R)
>Hey, don't forget that I like it simple -and fail safe. :)
Actually I like it, because it's the first step to the full FADEC system,
which I'd just love to assemble, since, as I said, I want my plane to
operate as simply and reliably as my Acura.
>Regards
>
>
>Torgeir.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 08:03 AM 11/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> I would like a flap design that when say, it was 25 % closed, the
>radiator would be blocked 25%. Right now, it look like one single flap
>hinged at the
>bottom of the rad, when open say, 25% you still have most of the rad open and
>the flap is only acting as a wind diverter. You don't really start to
>decrease the radiator opening until that flap is somewhere at 50% or
>greater shut.
> Looks like almost the same situation if you use multiple
> vanes/shutters.
>I would like to design a fail safe shutter that is more linear. If you close
>it 20%, it reduces the airflow 20% etc. etc. etc.
> I might be looking out the window too much on this also. I was talking
>to John King about his operation. He stated he doesn't get much change in
>temps until he is 50% closed.
I think the only way to achieve linearity is to have something like a
Mustang exit. For those of you who haven't seen it, it looks like a cowl
flap with side plates. When you open it 2" it is twice as large and has
twice the flow rate as when you open it 1". Unfortunately, the cowl has to
extend neatly beyond the radiator, unlike the beast I have now, which only
operates forward of the radiator.
>Don Smythe
>N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: radiator and cooling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 06:11 PM 11/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>IMHO, a bad idea. If you close water off to the radiator (bypass valve), the
>water in the radiator will get very cold. When you open the valve, COLD
>water will be introduced into the engine. Good conditions for a
>seizure. I think
>maximum water flow and controlled temps in the radiator are the way to go.
>Even getting rid of the thermostat is appealing if you can control the temps
>with airflow over the radiator
Yes. That's the idea.
>Don Smythe
>N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
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