Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Re: Fuel systems (kurt schrader)
2. 01:34 AM - Re: Ruptured diaphram (BROSCHART)
3. 03:15 AM - Re: Ruptured diaphram (Michel Verheughe)
4. 03:17 AM - Fuel line. WAS: ruptured impulse line (Michel Verheughe)
5. 04:05 AM - Re: Check valve (Fox5flyer)
6. 05:07 AM - fuel pump pics (Bob Unternaehrer)
7. 05:49 AM - Re: Check valve (Peter Graichen)
8. 05:54 AM - Re: fuel pump pics (Peter Graichen)
9. 06:11 AM - Re: Fuel line. WAS: ruptured impulse line (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
10. 06:31 AM - hmm some have no concern for safety it sems Re: Sport Pilot (dave)
11. 06:32 AM - Re: fuel pump pics (Howard Firm)
12. 12:14 PM - Re: Initial BING 54 Idle adjustment setting & thingamajiggys (AV8OR27RL@cs.com)
13. 02:50 PM - Re: fuel pump pics (Peter Graichen)
14. 03:41 PM - Re: fuel pump pics (Howard Firm)
15. 04:52 PM - Re: Tail Wheel Attachment (Jimmie Blackwell)
16. 04:54 PM - Re: Tail Wheel Attachment (Jimmie Blackwell)
17. 05:01 PM - Re: Tail Wheel Attachment (Jimmie Blackwell)
18. 05:19 PM - Re: Tail Wheel Attachment (shortnaked)
19. 07:17 PM - 582 Engine Mount (Jim Gilliatt)
20. 07:49 PM - Re: Check valve (kurt schrader)
21. 09:15 PM - Re: Check valve (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel systems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Thanks Don,
I remember some of Mikes problems and provided
protection for my pump and gascolator while building,
due to his experience and its reporting here. I also
temp installed a temperature gauge sender on my fuel
system to see if it got too hot under the cowl. It
was fine with my reflective heat wrap.
But I still don't like the arrangement. Too many ups
and downs and too complex. I'd like just one low
point for water to collect and up hill to the carb
after that for air to escape. Any other low points
are good places for ice to form too.
From this discussion, I also think I have several
possible solutions to my problems. My expensive 10
micron racing filter is probably too restrictive.
Shaped like a football, it has plenty of surface area,
but my gravity feed is slower than I would like. I
have to have a pump running for good fuel flow. In
flight on one pump at high power I can have a 2 psi
pressure drop from normal due to the greater demand.
From what you said about bubbles, which I do see in
flight in my Tygon lines too, that may explain why my
F/F meter is so far off. Bubbles in the lines can
throw the sender off and the pressure drop from my
filter just before the sender may induce bubbles
there.
Like you said, I have the second pump at the header
tank to push fuel and reduce the outgassing. But I
normally use the front pump only in flight. I do
notice the fuel pressure changing without any power
changes in cruise, and that made me wonder....
bubbles?
Kurt S.
--- AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 11/19/04 9:53:13 PM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com writes:
>
> <<
> Mine has 2 electric Facet pumps only. Neither is
> under the seat. The origional NSI design called
> for only one electric pump. I installed the fuel
> system >>
>
> Kurt,
> Back when Michel Harter was getting his NSI
> going, he had troubles with
> his one Facet pump but I can't remember exactly what
> it was. Anyway, he
> relocated the pump from fwd to under the seat right
> at the header output. That
> solved his problems. It might have been vapor
> lock???
> I studied auto fuel for quite a while and found
> that it will out gas much
> more than 100LL. I think vapor locking is the main
> reason automotive
> companies went from the engine mounted fuel pump to
> an electric pump in the fuel
> tank. Sucking fuel adds to the problem of out
> gassing where pushing fuel solves
> most of the problem. Also found out that anytime
> auto fuel passed through a
> larger body like a filter of Mik pump, it will out
> gas bad. Look at a clear
> filter on any car. It looks half empty.
> Try this sometime...Put a clear hose in your
> wing tank with a filter in
> the line. Start a syphon to the floor and you will
> see massive air bubbles all
> in the clear line. Move the same setup to a tank
> with 100LL and you will see
> little to no bubbles.
> This technique is used in the Rotax manual for
> determining if you have
> any air leaks in the system. Well, I spent about 4
> days looking for massive air
> leaks only to determine the above.
> BTW, I seem to remember that Mike's NSI would
> cruise with no pump at all
> turned on. Right?
>
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Ruptured diaphram |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: BROSCHART <cfbflyer@localnet.com>
won't the pressure in the pulse line cause fuel to be forced away from
the crank case rather than drawn into it
Have a good day - Charlie
Rex & Jan Shaw wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
>
>
> On the diaphragm rupture thing,,,,,I would bet by the time you realize
> you have a ruptured diaphragm, it will be too late to twist a valve, select
> a
> bypass or, turn on a pump.
>
> Don,
> I agree and feel the diaphram could suddenly split and cause
> flooding due to sucking fuel into the crankcase through the pulse line
> quicker than you can react. However as pointed out elsewhere this is more
> likely to be gradual. Also if it is sudden wouldn't we be likely to be able
> to turn the tap/valve to the Mikuni pump off even after the motor flooded
> and stopped and simply restart it on the backup pump. I think that the prop
> would continue to windmill after the motor ceased firing due to flooding and
> continue windmilling after we turned off the valve/tap so pumping out the
> flooding. Starting should then simply mean turning on the backup pump to get
> the right mixture again. The motor hopefully will windmill at more than
> 300RPM required for the CDI"S if we have them and so simply fire up again.
>
> Rex.
> rexjan@bigpond.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ruptured diaphram |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
BROSCHART wrote:
> won't the pressure in the pulse line cause fuel to be forced away from
> the crank case rather than drawn into it
Not really knowing what I am talking about, Charlie, it was my impression that
the engine gives a low pressure / high pressure through the pulse line. The sum
of which should be constant. Otherwise, I don't know how it could activate a
diaphragm. I guess, with a ruptured diaphragm, the fuel will be pushed up and
down the line but, eventually, will go down by gravitation since the pump is
usually higher than the bottom of the engine.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuel line. WAS: ruptured impulse line |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
"Jose M. Toro" wrote:
> I won't use the regular automotive fuel line. My Fox is worth the "additional
> investment".
No, I won't use regular automotive fuel line for my "loved one" either ... but,
my car is 13 years old and I've never replaced a fuel line. Should I be worried?
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> Have you had any problem with your fuel flow meter
> accuracy? That looks like the sender right after the
> pumps. Mine is required to be at least 18" away.
> Maybe it wasn't that critical?
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI tirbo
Kurt, if I can jump in here for a sec, I've got a similar setup to Peter's,
except for a single pump (all under the seat). I have the same fuel flow
transducer. My Facet pump is about 12 line-inches "after" the transducer.
I chose this configuration for two reasons. Because of space it was too
difficult to get the 18" distance if I'd placed the transducer "after" the
pump. Also, I got to thinking that the pump has a built in check valve so
the pulses only push forward, not back which meant that if I placed the
transducer first it shouldn't be affected by the pump. After nearly 300
hours the FloScan is still as accurate as when first fired up and that's
with no calibrating so I guess my choice was ok.
Hope this helps.
Darrel
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
Pete,, Looked at fuel pump pics. the 2 facet pumps were obvious, but what are
the next 2 items in the circuit. Bob U.
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
Hello Kurt:
I don't remember reading anything about a certain distance that the
transducer needs to be from other components. I calibrated the Floscan
indicator by setting the dip switches, a long and drawn-out affair.
Peter Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt schrader
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Check valve
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Oopps,
My mistake Peter. I had mistaken some of your
fittings for check valves. Sorry.
Have you had any problem with your fuel flow meter
accuracy? That looks like the sender right after the
pumps. Mine is required to be at least 18" away.
Maybe it wasn't that critical?
Kurt S. S-5/NSI tirbo
--- Peter Graichen <n10pg@neo.rr.com> wrote:
>> Hello Rex:
> There is a photo of my fuel pump plumbing scheme on
> my web site. Pumps in parallel with no check valves,
> all located underneath the passenger seat.
> Has worked flawlessly for 900 hrs (9 years)
> Peter Graichen
> http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
Hello Bob:
They are just AN910 couplings
Peter Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Unternaehrer
Subject: Kitfox-List: fuel pump pics
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer"
<shilohcom@c-magic.com>
Pete,, Looked at fuel pump pics. the 2 facet pumps were obvious, but what
are the next 2 items in the circuit. Bob U.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel line. WAS: ruptured impulse line |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
<<
"Jose M. Toro" wrote:
> I won't use the regular automotive fuel line. My Fox is worth the
"additional
> investment".
No, I won't use regular automotive fuel line for my "loved one" either ...
Cheers,
Michel
>>
I assume you guys mean you won't use "regular auto fuel line" in the Mik
"PULSE" line application. I agree with not using it for pulse line but don't
see a big problem using it elsewhere in the fuel system. SAE R-7 (regular)
and R-9 (injected) are both compatible with auto fuel. IMHO, compatibility is
more important.
Several places on different "fuel line" web sites call for replacing all
rubber lines every two years. I know that we have rubber lines on our old
cars but they very seldom get off the ground. R7 line is much cheaper than R9
and if a person were to change it every two years, it really shouldn't matter.
What the heck, I use Polyurethane and change it every now and then (when
the mood hit's me).
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: some have no concern for safety it sems Re: Kitfox-List: |
Sport Pilot
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: dave
Subject: Re: Sport Pilot
geez I bet you hope the next pilot carrying your family home on a 757 has
his medical?
If also the guy in the sport pilot plane that just ran into him that
passed out cause of his lack of respect for others.
May luck be with you.
:)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lee
To: dave@cfisher.com
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2004 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: Sport Pilot
You will change your mind if you think you may not pass your medical, even
though you are not a danger while flying or driving.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Sport Pilot
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dave" <dave@cfisher.com>
>
> why would you want de- value your plane?
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Sport Pilot
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro"
<jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Once it is certified, it can't be derated.
> >
> > LeRoy staley <itis50@yahoo.com> wrote:--> Kitfox-List message posted by:
> LeRoy staley
> >
> > Does anyone know if we are able to derate an airplanes
> > gross weight? I have a Kitfox 5 that is presently
> > rated at 1500 gross.
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > http://my.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > Jose M. Toro, P.E.
> > Kitfox II/582
> > "A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: fuel pump pics |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
Peter, what did your empty weight come out to?
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Initial BING 54 Idle adjustment setting & thingamajiggys |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AV8OR27RL@cs.com
My Binge 54s did not have the new thingamajigers. I got them from Spruce.
P.N. 07-00305 $7.50. Includes 1 cup 1 O-ring And 1 clip.
I use a drill bit as a feeler gage through the throat of the crabs to
synchronize the carb idle stops. Don't forget to synchronize the cables. Just set
the throttle off idle and use a suitable drill diameter to set the slide
openings the same on both carbs.
Bob Locey
Kitfox II 582
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
Hi Howard:
Please don't ask that question; you don't really want to know. May it
suffice to say that I think it is the heaviest kitfox out there.
But interestingly it performs no worse or better than any of the much
lighter ones. 85 kts = 100 mph at 65% power, i.e. 4.5 gph fuel burn.
Peter Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Howard Firm
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: fuel pump pics
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
Peter, what did your empty weight come out to?
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: fuel pump pics |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
Hehe, Now I have to know....I may have you beaten on the heaviest!!!
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: fuel pump pics
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
>
> Hi Howard:
> Please don't ask that question; you don't really want to know. May it
> suffice to say that I think it is the heaviest kitfox out there.
> But interestingly it performs no worse or better than any of the much
> lighter ones. 85 kts = 100 mph at 65% power, i.e. 4.5 gph fuel burn.
>
> Peter Graichen
> http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Howard Firm
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: fuel pump pics
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
>
> Peter, what did your empty weight come out to?
>
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Attachment |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Brian
Thank you. That describes what I am experiencing. I am just trying to know
and fix everything possible to keep me and my Model IV in good repair.
Jimmie
N 855 Model IV Speedster
31 Years Active Duty USAF.
Contact me off line and tell me where you have been stationed. We may have
crossed paths.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Peck" <u2drvr@dslextreme.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brian Peck <u2drvr@dslextreme.com>
>
> I think I understand what you are talking about...
>
> Right around 40 mph, lateral directional control becomes less stable
> (more rudder inputs required to keep it going straight). This is due to
> the fact that the tailwheel is becoming less effective due to less
> weight being on it as the aircraft starts to generate lift. As you
> continue to accelerate, the rudder becomes more effective and the
> aircraft again becomes easier to control. There is a brief period
> (about 40 mph) where the tailwheel is less effective, but the rudder
> hasn't yet gained enough authority to compensate fully for this. This
> is normal behavior for a tail dragger and crosswind limits should be
> based on control effectiveness at the speed of least control. There
> have been many cases where people have made good landings in high
> crosswinds, only to groundloop and/or depart the runway when slowing
> down.
>
> If what I have described fits your situation, then it is normal.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Brian Peck
> Kitfox V - IO-240
> USAF U-2 Test Pilot
>
> On Nov 20, 2004, at 11:53 AM, Jimmie Blackwell wrote:
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
> > <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > Help me out here. You could probably describe this better than me.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jimmie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Comp User" <trebla@directinter.net>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> >
> >
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Comp User"
> >> <trebla@directinter.net>
> >>
> >> Could you explain a little more on hard to control? Rudder control,
> >> pitch,
> >> there are a lot of things that get hard to control.
> >> Albert Smith
> >> 5TD
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Attachment |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
I talked to Robbie Grove and he recommends bending the tail wheel spring
enough to make the tailwheel pivot point attachment to the tail spring
vertical or slightly tilted forward.
Thank you for your input
JImmie
----- Original Message -----
From: <customtrans@qwest.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: customtrans@qwest.net
>
> I am slightly confused, if you are going 40 that means the tail should be
> off the ground. At least I raise my tail off the ground around 40. If
the
> tail is on the ground at 40 than it is very likely your problem. the
shaft
> for the wheel should point straight up and down or slightly forward.
next,
> make sure you have a wheel that locks in place straight forward and
releases
> with a detent for turning in the hanger. To check for proper wheel
> alignment move the rear of the plane around and the wheel should follow,
not
> have to kick the wheel for direction. Again, when flying, slowly raise
your
> rpm and watch the air speed, at around 40 start pushing forward on the
> stick, you will feel the tail come up, it will feel heavy, now push the
> throttle all the way in and stay level, a few seconds later, maybe a
second,
> pull back on the stick and fly away. You might be experiencing tail wheel
> control to rudder transition. I found the sooner you can get the tail off
> the ground the better control. Or a little less power at first, get the
> tail up, maintain directional control(sometimes a little dancing on the
> pedals is in order) and then lift off. I found with a full power take off
> you can get a little wish wash on the take off. I found by doing the
above
> it will eliminate take of ground loops, has anybody experienced that? I
> have.
> On landing as soon as you touch the runway push the stick forward and
apply
> a little power, you may need to dance the rudder again to get things
> straight, then slowly pull back on the power and add forward stick
slightly
> and let the tail come down slowly and NOT let it drop suddenly, could be
> that the tail is bouncing, but anyway let the tail come down when it's
> through flying. The kitfox is a tough one to get use to but the most
> enjoyable. Once you master the kitfox you definatly have a feeling of
> accomplishment. Another thing you can practice is slow speed flight.
Sort
> of put the fox in slow flight and keep it from falling off. You'll learn
> real quick how to dance the rudder, can be quite fun. Then go 10 feet off
> the runway and do the same thing, put yourself in slow flight and keep it
> straight down the runway without landing. These things are fun and give
> great purpose to flying, try it. If you have trouble with these things,
> take an instructor up with you and do them, at any rate you need to
practice
> these things.
>
> steve a
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jimmie
> Blackwell
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<jablackwell@ev1.net>
>
> In the last few weeks I have been having a lot of fun learning to fly my
> Model IV Speedster. There are a couple of issues that perhaps this list
can
> help me resolve. First, when landing or taking off there is a period of
> time at about 35-40 mph that my plane gets notably more difficult to
> control. Above or below this speed it is rather easy to control on the
> ground. Second, and this may be related to the first issue, my tail wheel
> is slanted slightly backward where the tail wheel attaches to the tail
> spring. Seems I remember reading somewhere that the tail wheel should be
> slanted slightly forward. Hopefully, some of you have some ideas and
> experience on how to correct these issues if they are indeed a problem.
>
> I forgot to mention, my tail wheel spring is the solid Grove spring.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Attachment |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
I may have got the speed wrong as I do not stare at the airspeed at this
point. The point I was trying to make is that there is a period of time on
take off and landing that the plane gets more difficult to control. By that
I mean, it is more sensitive to incorrect rudder inputs and requires
concentrated attention to keep it headed straight down the runway.
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "shortnaked" <shortnaked@golden.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "shortnaked" <shortnaked@golden.net>
>
> sorry but why are you on the ground at 40 mph?
>
> tailwheel will come up just after start of TO roll and rotate 30 to 35
and
> you gone.
>
> are you flying a 700 lb plane empty or sumthing ?
>
> once agwain when you land 35 mph your tailwheel should touch first an
> mains right after.
>
> keep on top of rudder at all times and be aware of winds and cross winds.
> once below 30 mph stick back to keep tail firmly on ground. amd stick
> into wind with a front quarting crosswinds
>
>
> Shorty
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
> <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > Help me out here. You could probably describe this better than me.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jimmie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Comp User" <trebla@directinter.net>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Comp User"
<trebla@directinter.net>
> > >
> > > Could you explain a little more on hard to control? Rudder control,
> pitch,
> > > there are a lot of things that get hard to control.
> > > Albert Smith
> > > 5TD
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Attachment |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "shortnaked" <shortnaked@golden.net>
Jimme,
alright you sound like you need some dual instruction.
What are you used to flying ? taildragger or tricycle gear?
either way you gotta keep your yaw under control at all times to prevent
a groundloop.
your time on your bird is too valuable to bend her up at the start of your
planes flying career.
hope this helps you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<jablackwell@ev1.net>
>
> I may have got the speed wrong as I do not stare at the airspeed at this
> point. The point I was trying to make is that there is a period of time
on
> take off and landing that the plane gets more difficult to control. By
that
> I mean, it is more sensitive to incorrect rudder inputs and requires
> concentrated attention to keep it headed straight down the runway.
>
> Jimmie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "shortnaked" <shortnaked@golden.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "shortnaked" <shortnaked@golden.net>
> >
> > sorry but why are you on the ground at 40 mph?
> >
> > tailwheel will come up just after start of TO roll and rotate 30 to 35
> and
> > you gone.
> >
> > are you flying a 700 lb plane empty or sumthing ?
> >
> > once agwain when you land 35 mph your tailwheel should touch first an
> > mains right after.
> >
> > keep on top of rudder at all times and be aware of winds and cross
winds.
> > once below 30 mph stick back to keep tail firmly on ground. amd
stick
> > into wind with a front quarting crosswinds
> >
> >
> > Shorty
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
> > <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > Help me out here. You could probably describe this better than me.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Jimmie
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Comp User" <trebla@directinter.net>
> > > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail Wheel Attachment
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Comp User"
> <trebla@directinter.net>
> > > >
> > > > Could you explain a little more on hard to control? Rudder control,
> > pitch,
> > > > there are a lot of things that get hard to control.
> > > > Albert Smith
> > > > 5TD
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | 582 Engine Mount |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Gilliatt <jim.gilliatt@att.net>
I have a friend named Oscar Calderone, who has limited access to the
internet. I believe that he can receive messages, but can't send
them. I am therefore sending this for him. He has a 582 engine mount,
brand new, and a radiator for sale. He is looking for $500 or best
offer. You may respond to him over the internet at:
oscarfromri@webtv.net
with a return telephone number, or you may call him at home at
401-568-1943 or on his cell phone at 401-837-6914.
Jim Gilliatt
Series 7 IO-240 in progress
Message 20
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DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=aumxwUjO8P+17iLeazMpbq52ZORPgKrv27V+xHYlTjpxFNfhze8LxSP6bF9fcMRx6ZZ++Lhz0XHKWe7KYf326ddo030dJh2+xRfhGMu9vy1RlJO9PDNhBIW6sVijkHY9usJFADNmE4Tl8fAA9If9gMHsJvDBqpxy0kmxvFd73Ng=
;
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Peter,
I went thru the Floscan calibration myself, but
couldn't get it exactly on. I am still 9% low with
full adjustment. It was origionally 23% off and that
is as close as it will get. The technition thought I
had an air leak in the line, but I was testing with
gravity flow only.
I think it is like Don said, bubbles from the autogas
created by my filter which is just before the
transducer.
Your filter is after the transducer and that seems to
work well I guess.
BTW, what is the silver colored fitting in the bottom
right of the fuel pump pic? Comes before the "T"
fitting split to both pumps? About like a apark plug
socket in shape.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Peter Graichen <n10pg@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello Kurt:
> I don't remember reading anything about a certain
> distance that the transducer needs to be from
> other components. I calibrated the Floscan
> indicator by setting the dip switches, a long and
> drawn-out affair.
>
> Peter Graichen
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 21
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Kurt,
I seem to remember when I installed my JPI fuel flow that I had to select
either a fuel flow sender for gravity feed or pump feed. Might ask. Could
be the difference. I think I took the one for pump feed since I just leave
the pump on.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Check valve
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Peter,
I went thru the Floscan calibration myself, but
couldn't get it exactly on. I am still 9% low with
full adjustment. It was origionally 23% off and that
is as close as it will get. The technition thought I
had an air leak in the line, but I was testing with
gravity flow only.
I think it is like Don said, bubbles from the autogas
created by my filter which is just before the
transducer.
Your filter is after the transducer and that seems to
work well I guess.
BTW, what is the silver colored fitting in the bottom
right of the fuel pump pic? Comes before the "T"
fitting split to both pumps? About like a apark plug
socket in shape.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Peter Graichen <n10pg@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> Hello Kurt:
> I don't remember reading anything about a certain
> distance that the transducer needs to be from
> other components. I calibrated the Floscan
> indicator by setting the dip switches, a long and
> drawn-out affair.
>
> Peter Graichen
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
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