Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:43 AM - Re: Darrel's Big Trip (kurt schrader)
2. 12:49 AM - SV: Bungies (Michel Verheughe)
3. 02:00 AM - SV: Jabiru 2200 FF Kit (Michel Verheughe)
4. 02:08 AM - SV: Jabiru 2200 FF Kit (Michel Verheughe)
5. 05:17 AM - Re: Electrical Question (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
6. 10:27 AM - Urgent Help - Civil Air Patrol needs information (Don Pearsall)
7. 03:08 PM - Intercom problem (Dieflyer@aol.com)
8. 03:47 PM - Re: SV: Jabiru 2200 FF Kit (kurt schrader)
9. 04:34 PM - Re: SV: Bungies (Jerry Liles)
10. 05:11 PM - windshield mold (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
11. 06:14 PM - Re: SV: Bungies (dwight purdy)
12. 07:04 PM - Re: Can you zero a hobbs meter? (Jose M. Toro)
13. 07:15 PM - Re: Darrel's Big Trip (Jose M. Toro)
14. 07:49 PM - Skystar ()
15. 09:17 PM - Re: windshield mold (Lowell Fitt)
16. 09:57 PM - Crankcase breather EA-81 (Rick)
17. 10:19 PM - Re: Crankcase breather EA-81 (Rick)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Darrel's Big Trip |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
This is GREAT!
I have been pestering my local A&P mechanic friend to
buy it, but he got a Champ instead. Glad the Melnik's
plane will get a good home.
Kurt S.
Do not archive
--- Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net> wrote:
> Last week Darrel Morisse mentioned that he was going
> on a long cross country to fly a Series 5 from
> Florida to his home in Michigan. Here is the rest of
> the story.
>
> Many of you already know that Dan and Laura Melnik's
> prize-winning Series 5.......
> Deke is now making his way home with the plane....
>
> Way to go, Deke!!
>
> Don Pearsall
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: Jerry Liles [wliles@bayou.com]
> I then used nylon cord as whipping cord and ran a series of half hitches
> around the two pieces for about 1.5inches, tied the end off tight and
> coated the whippings with rubber cement.
I haven't yet replace my bungees, Jerry, and I didn't dare to mention this on the
list, but when I'll do, I'll sureley do as you say. Or rather, as I did, all
my life, with bungees on my sailboats. The only difference is that I use sailcloth
waxed whipping thread and that I go through the bungee with a needle at
the start and the end of the whipping. All my bungee whipping has survived many
gales and around the clock exposure to the elements.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Jabiru 2200 FF Kit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello Allan,
You wrote:
> Cowl look great but the ramp looks too big in my humble
> opinion.
I am very grateful for your comments. I am a novice and this is my first engine
installation.
I agree with you, the ramp looks big and it certainly must add drag. However, my
Norwegian Jabiru dealer told me that since my model 3 is a slow airplane, I'll
need an exit ramp four times as large as the two ram-air and the oil cooler,
together. My calculation makes it to be an exit ramp 60 by 15 cm, and that's
what I built. With time, I'll see if I can reduce it.
Thanks again for your answer.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Jabiru 2200 FF Kit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello Kurt,
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
> I see you are running the 45 degree
> exhaust I talked about. :-)
... How could I dare not to? :-)
> 1. Make sure you cut the holes around the exhaust
> pipes large enough to allow the engine to move without
> contacting the cowl. They look a little tight now.
Yes, I will. I try to make them as small as possible, to increase it to the desired
size.
> 2. If you still have engine heat problems when it is
> done, you can run the exhaust out the cowl exit and
> draw more air out using the exhaust infleuence to suck
> more air thru.
Yes, already now, I see a flaw in my design. The exhaust pipes should be in the
cowl ramp. This is my cowl Mark I and there will be many to follow! :-)
One thing I remember from my sailing days, though, is that I need to fly as soon
as possible. It is up in the air that one sees best what needs to be done next.
I share my hangar with a Challenger owner who has been screwing on his plane for
two years. He hasn't been flying it yet ... but he has installed a turn coordinator,
which is much more than what I have. :-)
Thanks for your comments, Kurt. I feel so safe in your company, guys!
Cheers,
Michel
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 1/16/05 8:03:29 PM Pacific Standard Time,
davestapa@juno.com writes:
<<
I am wiring a radio noise filter that Skystar sells. Goes from ingnition
mod to ground. (A capacitor). It is black with a grey stripe and has
chevrons in the stripe that point to one terminal. No other markings. I
know from experience theses things are polarity sensitive. I blew the
first one. Which is ground-how do you tell? I'm electrically challenged
and need help. Thanks.
>>
I think you got the answer on the polarity. However, you might consider one
more thing when you install the Cap. Put an inline fuse holder in the (+)
line going to the Cap. Make the size 10 AMPS. I think I have a 5 AMP in mine
and it's never blown. Just in case the Cap ever shorts out, the fuse will kick
rather than heat up all your wiring and cause possible severe damage.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Urgent Help - Civil Air Patrol needs information |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
I just got a call from the Oklahoma Civil Air Patrol. They asked me to post
a message here.
Does anyone have any information on N222JN? They want to know color, engine,
fuel capacity, etc.
If you have any knowledge of this Kitfox, please respond right away with all
info you know. You can call the OK CAP commander Russell Davis at
405-314-5575 as well, but please also post here.
I looked it up, and it is a Lite Squared registered to Jack Nolan of
MUSKOGEE, OK.
Don Pearsall
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Intercom problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dieflyer@aol.com
Hello gentlemen! I'm hoping to get some advice from someone. My sigtronics
intercom works fine until I turn on my handfheld Sporty's 300 radio. Then I can
hear the radio faintly, but the intercom stops working. Any idea what I have
done wrong? I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 FF Kit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Michel,
I also think you have too much cooling, but you will
find that out when you fly. Make sure to fly on the
hottest days to see what you need. Maybe that bottom
outlet can be made variable from the cockpit?
Kurt S.
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
Michel
Your method is undoubtaly superior using the needle to secure the ends.
The waxed whipping cord is also nice, however the nylon cord is more
readily available to us landlocked types and it does the job. I do
believe a properly whipped set of bungees looks good, almost pretty,
especially compared to the nicopress or the hook ends. It's the
craftsman's way of doing the job.
Jerry Liles
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>
>
>>From: Jerry Liles [wliles@bayou.com]
>>I then used nylon cord as whipping cord and ran a series of half hitches
>>around the two pieces for about 1.5inches, tied the end off tight and
>>coated the whippings with rubber cement.
>>
>>
>
>I haven't yet replace my bungees, Jerry, and I didn't dare to mention this on
the list, but when I'll do, I'll sureley do as you say. Or rather, as I did, all
my life, with bungees on my sailboats. The only difference is that I use sailcloth
waxed whipping thread and that I go through the bungee with a needle at
the start and the end of the whipping. All my bungee whipping has survived many
gales and around the clock exposure to the elements.
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
I want to make a windshield "male" mold in order to fabricate a fiberglass
top which will cover the compound bend areas of the windshield. Having never
done this, I was wondering if "plaster of Paris" might be the product of choice
or what? I can visualize most of the process but when I get to the point of
removing the mold from the windshield, I can see it shatter like a fine piece
of glass.
Any comments from you composite experts?
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy <dpurdy@comteck.com>
Ok, I'll toot my horn. I used waxed rib lace and then covered it with good
heat shrink. Very neat looking if anyone ever looks.
dwight Model II
At 09:11 AM 1/17/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> > From: Jerry Liles [wliles@bayou.com]
> > I then used nylon cord as whipping cord and ran a series of half hitches
> > around the two pieces for about 1.5inches, tied the end off tight and
> > coated the whippings with rubber cement.
>
>I haven't yet replace my bungees, Jerry, and I didn't dare to mention this
>on the list, but when I'll do, I'll sureley do as you say. Or rather, as I
>did, all my life, with bungees on my sailboats. The only difference is
>that I use sailcloth waxed whipping thread and that I go through the
>bungee with a needle at the start and the end of the whipping. All my
>bungee whipping has survived many gales and around the clock exposure to
>the elements.
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.13 - Release Date: 1/16/2005
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Can you zero a hobbs meter? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Michel:
Assuming it is now 400 hours, could you wait 600 hours to get it zeroed? If answer
is yes, and it is DC, then connect a 9 volts battery to it and wait. Hope
this answer is not too stupid .
Otherwise, you will need to do an entry in the logbook, and substract the current
reading to get the new engine time. Anyway, the current time displayed is,
most likely, airframe time.
I like the modified cowling look. Will look better painted, after removing the
Rotax sticker. Nothing wrong with Rotax, it just doesn't apply anymore.
Did you get the cooling baffles when you bought your Jabiru? I didn't find mine
in the wood box!
Saludos!
Jose
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
Hello guys,
Can you zero a hobbs meter? Since I am installing a Jabiru, it could be nice to
zero mine.
Thanks in advance.
Michel
Jose M. Toro, P.E.
Kitfox II/582
"A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
---------------------------------
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Darrel's Big Trip |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
That plane appeared in September 98 issue of Experimenter...very nice. I took
a picture of it at Sun and Fun 97.
Enjoy it Deke!
Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
Last week Darrel Morisse mentioned that he was going on a long cross country
to fly a Series 5 from Florida to his home in Michigan. Here is the rest of
the story.
Many of you already know that Dan and Laura Melnik's prize-winning Series 5
of was damaged by the recent hurricanes in Florida. Evidently it was thrown
around while inside the hangar and suffered some damage. Dan did not have
the time to fix it, so he got an insurance settlement, and sold the plane to
Darrel. Deke is now making his way home with the plane. Evidently it is
still in flyable condition. Here is his latest message telling us of his
progress.
Way to go, Deke!!
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: morid@northland.lib.mi.us [mailto:morid@northland.lib.mi.us]
Subject: Hey, just checking in.
Hi Don. Just giving you a progress report as I assume you were probabably
wondering. Arr Tampa 12th, headed with Jack to Melbourne next am and had
airplane airworthy by 1500, but couldn't fly out of there because a front
moved
in during the day and the wind picked up to HOWLING stage which grounded me
for
the next two days at Dan's place. Dan was a great host and I appreciated
that.
Managed to fly out of there finally on Sat am about 1015, but xwind was
18-22kts, low ceiling, and not very good vis. Takeoff was sporting and once
airborne there was no way I was going to go back and land in that xwind so
west
bound I went. Ceiling was low all the way, rougher than a cob, and not very
good vis, but the airplane performed great and with 125mph gs I got to
Palmetto
airport in about an hour. The reason I left under those conditions was
because
the MLB wx was forecast to get worse and Tampa wx was better with only 15kt
winds. Landing was uneventful and Jack was waiting for me and I've been
just
vedging since then and waiting for a good two day window to head north. No
pressure though so that's nice and I'm in no hurry.
If you want you can let the list know what's going on and that I bought
Dan's
airplane. I'll be taking a more or less direct line from Tampa to Michigan
and
hoping to get somewhere in the vicinity of Dayton first leg.
Jose M. Toro, P.E.
Kitfox II/582
"A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
---------------------------------
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
The website has been changed and the message board is back up. Looks good,
too!
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: windshield mold |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Don,
I think plaster would work fine. I have used it. I think what I would try
is some Saran like kitchen film placed over the surface. Then you wouldn't
have any issues with the plaster attaching itself to scratches in the
windshield. Set plaster flakes might be difficult to remove without
scratching the windshield also. This might not be a problem if you will be
replacing the windshield after fabricating the fiberglass top.
Another suggestion might be to use the plastic film and then lay up several
layers of glass over it. I would try several test lay-ups to find a film
that will survive the resin. When working on a project here, I noticed that
some kitchen wraps are polyethylene and some are polyvinyl and maybe other
plastics.PVA is an excellent mold release that can be painted or sprayed
over a waxed surface to ensure separation of lay-ups. Spraying is best as
it allows for several layers to make sure pinholes are not present. It is
water soluble and cleans up easily.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: windshield mold
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> I want to make a windshield "male" mold in order to fabricate a fiberglass
> top which will cover the compound bend areas of the windshield. Having
never
> done this, I was wondering if "plaster of Paris" might be the product of
choice
> or what? I can visualize most of the process but when I get to the point
of
> removing the mold from the windshield, I can see it shatter like a fine
piece
> of glass.
>
> Any comments from you composite experts?
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
> BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Teach CanIt if this mail (ID 82239835) is spam:
> Spam:
http://login.safereach.com/b.php?c=s&i=82239835&m=3ce66e58a99d
> Not spam:
http://login.safereach.com/b.php?c=n&i=82239835&m=3ce66e58a99d
> Forget vote:
http://login.safereach.com/b.php?c=f&i=82239835&m=3ce66e58a99d
> ------------------------------------------------------
> END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Crankcase breather EA-81 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I have found considerable water and muck in my breather and vent lines. I
got rid of the earlier oil puking problem with the breather vent mod but I
think this is worse from an engine operations and longevity stand point. I
have now removed the entire modified stock system and am looking at going
with a single puke can/breather mounted on each side of the engine lower
than the vents on the rocker boxes. The oil drain to the pan has been caped
for now. I found little oil in the original can after almost twenty hours on
the new engine. If you take one of you breather lines off at the rocker box
and water runs or drips out this is a bad thing. Has anyone else experienced
this problem and addressed a solution. Besides I don't like the idea of that
crud running back into the oil pan either.
Rick
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Crankcase breather EA-81 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Also found this article which explains what is happening.
Rick
Crankcase Distillation of Water by Air Oil Separators
The burning of 40 gallons of fuel during a flight produces 40 gallons of
water.1 Although most of the water goes out the exhaust as a gas, some ends
up in the engine crankcase as byproducts of combustion. In cold weather we
can sometimes see this crankcase water as droplets on the oil dipstick or
rocker box. Engines, such as the Lycoming O-235-L2C, often have rust inside
the rocker covers where the water condenses and collects inside the cover.
How is water that is produced as a byproduct of combustion, and finds its
way into the engine crankcase, removed from the engine?
Your engine is a distillery in which we add water, combustion byproducts
(such as unburned fuel, lead oxides, and nitrogen oxides) into a oil bath;
agitate and aerate with the crankshaft and other rotating parts; heat until
the more volatile products, principally water, vaporizes into a gas and
flows thru a pipe called the crankcase breather into the cooler atmosphere.
This is illustrated as such:
What comes out the engine breather is often a milky colored exudate formed
from steam distillation of oil. You sometimes see this on the dipstick or
other condensing surface. In this form you don't want to pump it back into
the engine as it consists of a mixture of oil and water. There is also some
concern that the NOX emissions have combined with the water to form nitric
acid.
Corrosion pitting is the most common reason camshaft lobes and followers are
damaged (2nd might be stuck valves). Making sure your distillery is
functioning properly by removing water from the engine crankcase is
important if you want to prevent corrosion damage to your engine. Normally,
you need not worry; operate the distillery often and make sure you
completely warm it up. Ground running the distillery just adds water and
doesn't produce steam -- you need to fly your distillery to fully heat it
up.
Every distillery has a condenser that turns the distilled vapors back into
liquid form. With engines we prefer that condensation occurs in the
atmosphere or in a vent line that slopes downward. Now lets modify the
distillery and add what is commonly called a "air/oil separator" to our
system. I use the more accurate term "gas/liquid separator" since our
separator cannot tell the difference between air and any other gas, or oil
and any other liquid. If our gas/liquid separator is cooler than our oil
sump, then our gas/liquid separator also becomes a condenser with a return
line back to the engine. Oil, along with any distilled liquids, are returned
to the engine.
Take for example a worst case scenario. You mount our gas/liquid separator
in a cold area of the engine compartment. You attach it to a large heat sink
called the firewall. Everything you have done has increased your condenser's
efficiency at condensing water and other vapors into a liquid. Now you're
engine pumps the condensate back into the engine along with some engine oil.
You couldn't design a better way of trapping water in your engine.
The warmer our gas/liquid separator, the less efficient our distillery is at
condensing water and pumping it back into the engine.
Our Lycoming Distillery
A. Engine oil, fuel residual, water and other combustion byproducts
B. Combustion Chamber - heat source
C. Crankcase
D. gas/liquid separator and/or atmosphere
E. Either atmosphere or hose back to crankcase - you're choice.
1. http://newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem99/chem99583.htm Richard E.
Barrans Jr., Ph.D. Assistant Director, PG Research Foundation
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Kitfox-List: Crankcase breather EA-81
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I have found considerable water and muck in my breather and vent lines. I
got rid of the earlier oil puking problem with the breather vent mod but I
think this is worse from an engine operations and longevity stand point. I
have now removed the entire modified stock system and am looking at going
with a single puke can/breather mounted on each side of the engine lower
than the vents on the rocker boxes. The oil drain to the pan has been caped
for now. I found little oil in the original can after almost twenty hours on
the new engine. If you take one of you breather lines off at the rocker box
and water runs or drips out this is a bad thing. Has anyone else experienced
this problem and addressed a solution. Besides I don't like the idea of that
crud running back into the oil pan either.
Rick
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|