Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - SV: SV: Bungies (Michel Verheughe)
2. 01:28 AM - Jabiru 2200 FF Kit (Michel Verheughe)
3. 01:48 AM - SV: Can you zero a hobbs meter? (Michel Verheughe)
4. 02:56 AM - Re: windshield mold (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
5. 02:59 AM - Re: SV: Can you zero a hobbs meter? (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
6. 05:34 AM - SV: windshield mold (Michel Verheughe)
7. 05:45 AM - Can you zero a hobbs meter? (Michel Verheughe)
8. 07:43 AM - Re: Engine choices (John Larsen)
9. 07:43 AM - Re: Engine choices moreo n NSI wieght (John Larsen)
10. 07:43 AM - Re: Model 5, Subaru and Batterry (John Larsen)
11. 11:41 AM - Re: windshield mold (kurt schrader)
12. 11:47 AM - Re: SV: Can you zero a hobbs meter? (kurt schrader)
13. 12:00 PM - Re: Off List: Can you zero a hobbs meter? (kurt schrader)
14. 12:03 PM - Re: Engine choices moreo n NSI wieght (kurt schrader)
15. 12:19 PM - Re: Crankcase breather EA-81 (kurt schrader)
16. 01:36 PM - Re: Things to do to your Kitfox to live longer- Part 2 (kurt schrader)
17. 02:06 PM - Re: Crankcase breather EA-81 (William J. Applegate)
18. 02:54 PM - Re: Things to do to your Kitfox to live longer (kitfoxjunky)
19. 03:20 PM - Re: windshield mold (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
20. 04:32 PM - Re: Intercom problem (Flybradair@cs.com)
21. 04:52 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 FF Kit (Steve Cooper)
22. 06:42 PM - calibrating an altimeter (Clem Nichols)
23. 06:52 PM - Re: calibrating an altimeter (Jay Fabian)
24. 07:15 PM - Re: calibrating an altimeter (Clem Nichols)
25. 08:16 PM - Re: calibrating an altimeter (Steve Zakreski)
26. 08:41 PM - Re: windshield mold (Lowell Fitt)
27. 10:15 PM - Re: calibrating an altimeter (kurt schrader)
28. 10:34 PM - Re: calibrating an altimeter (r.thomas@za.pwc.com)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: Jerry Liles [wliles@bayou.com]
> The waxed whipping cord is also nice, however the nylon cord is more
> readily available to us landlocked types and it does the job.
Of course, Jerry. But I believe waxed thread is also used in making leather horse
gear like, saddles. ... any cowboy nearby? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Jabiru 2200 FF Kit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
> I also think you have too much cooling, but you will
> find that out when you fly.
I know, Kurt. But I was given this figure: The air-in/air-out ratio should be 1:4
for my plane. And that's what it is. Faster planes need lesser ratio. E.g.
the Jabiru aircraft that cruises (I think) at 120 knots, needs only a 1:1.5 ratio.
> Maybe that bottom
> outlet can be made variable from the cockpit?
That would be the best, Kurt. I have very much sense for simple, mechanically operated
controls. And I might do that but not now. I have seen too many sailors
or pilots, having a ... project. I had a plane and it will be a flying plane
ASAP. Improving mods will come later. As long as I can keep my new engine from
getting too hot, I'll be happy, to start with.
Cheers,
Michel
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Can you zero a hobbs meter? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hola Jose,
> From: Jose M. Toro [jose_m_toro@yahoo.com]
> Assuming it is now 400 hours, could you wait 600 hours to get it zeroed?
Yes, I could. But the problem is slightly different. When I bought the plane, it
had 170 hours on the airframe and engine. But the Hobbs meter was showing 94
hours. I was then told that the meter was not working. It is only now, re-wiring
my panel that I find the Hobbs meter was simply not connected to the master
switch.
So, 94 hours look silly when the plane has now 265 hours on the airframe and 0
on the engine.
BTW, I know that my Hobbs meter is working because I can see the digits are moving
and I can hear the click of the instrument. But, in addition to the chronometer-like
sound of the wheel at about 2 Hz, I also hear another sound every say,
6 seconds. Is that normal? I can't exclude there is a fault with the meter.
> If answer is yes, and it is DC, then connect a 9 volts battery to it and wait.
Isn't it 12 V, Jose? To me, it looks like it is hooked directly to the 12V from
the battery, after the master switch. If it needs 9V then I did a mistake to
connect it to 12V.
> Otherwise, you will need to do an entry in the logbook, and substract the current
> reading to get the new engine time.
Of course. I was only hoping to avoid the math! :-)
> after removing the Rotax sticker.
Just did that yesterday night! :-)
> Did you get the cooling baffles when you bought your Jabiru? I didn't find mine
in
> the wood box!
Yes, Jose. But mine was not in the wood box. I got it separately, together with
the oil cooler and the airbox. Although I think it is included in the price of
the engine.
I think it is very important you use the Jabiru ram-air duct. Maybe Andy forgot
to send it to you.
Cheers,
Michel
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: windshield mold |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 1/17/05 9:26:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lcfitt@inreach.com writes:
<<
Another suggestion might be to use the plastic film and then lay up several
layers of glass over it. I would try several test lay-ups to find a film
that will survive the resin. When working on a project here, I noticed that
>>
The windshield will be discarded after this project. I thought of simply
using the existing install and lay up the glass on top. However,
fiberglassing can get messy and I would end up with epoxy all over the plane.
Therefore,
it seems better to make a mold and then get away from the plane.
I'm going to try and make the front eyebrow thingie I once mentioned.
The compound bend area and the entire top will be glass. Only the front will
be Lexan and have a gentle bend from side to side. Also, there will be no bolt
holes to secure in place. I will probably put in one or two port holes of
lexan in the top section for a bit of view.
Is there a way to reinforce plaster to make it less breakable. For
instance, mixing in some sort of fiber? Or, is it strong enough as is? One more
question, how thick do you think the plaster needs to be? The Saran Wrap is a
good idea with the plaster.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Can you zero a hobbs meter? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 1/18/05 1:48:45 AM Pacific Standard Time, michel@online.no
writes:
<<
Yes, I could. But the problem is slightly different. When I bought the
plane, it had 170 hours on the airframe and engine. But the Hobbs meter was showing
94 hours. I was the >>
Michel,
Get an EIS. Not only will you love it, you can set the Hobbs function to
what you want.
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> I was wondering if "plaster of Paris" might be the product of choice
> or what?
It is a beautiful moulding material, Don. However, be aware that it dries very
fast.
You should first apply a thin layer of very wet plaster. This is to avoid air bubbles.
Then you apply several layers of medical bandage soaked in plaster. This
is how a doctor would make a cast of your broken arm or leg.
Another technique is to "kill" the plaster by stirring in it while it dries. The
result is a creamy stuff that will not dry chemically but by water evaporation,
which can take severa days. That technique is only to be used to fill small
imperfections, etc. as it is not strong at all, and it will dissolve in water.
Here is now I know that: As an art student in Belgium, many years ago, I made several
cast of the breast of several young ladies. Once done, I moulded a copy
of it in polyester and these ladies had it on their wall, as a decoration.
I learnt a lot about plaster, polyester and ... breasts! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Can you zero a hobbs meter? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> Michel,
> Get an EIS. Not only will you love it, you can set the Hobbs function to
> what you want.
I am sure it would, Don. But I have something against computerized instruments
and digital displays. Maybe it is because I spend most of my day in front of a
computer.
... sometimes, I feel like riding steam-engine Kitfox toward the sunset, singing:
"Oh give me land, lots of land, and the starry sky above, don't fence me in!
... " ;-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Engine choices |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Hi;
Funny you should mention Mike Harter. I corresponded with him when his
NSI lost oil pressure due to failed push rods, when his gearbox failed
and when his CAP went on the blink. I still have the e-mails. Later, I
watched him fly against other 912 powered Kitfox's at the last Skystar
fly-in he attended and anyone there could see he was heavy and lacked
performance. He did not know what I looked like, so I went up and
asked him how his NSI was working. He said; "Runs great, never had a
minutes problem.!!!" A lot of us will never admit publicly that
whatever, car, plane, bike or engine we own is not the greatest.
If his plane had better performance, he probably could have climbed out
of that box-canyon and not suffered the fatal spin in.
NSI AERO wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "NSI AERO" <info@nsiaero.com>
>
>Well said Darrel. I talked with Mike many, many times, and never once did
>he ever say that his plane was even close to being heavy or lacked
>performance. He put some 980 hours on his Fox in just 18 months,(That alone
>has to be some kind of record) giving rides and helping anyone who asked
>with building there Fox.
>
>I would like to know why fellow Kitfox builders/pilots have to resort to
>posting miss information and/or out of context conversations as "Fact". It
>simple does not help anyone, but sure leaves a BIG IMPRESSION on those
>setting on the side lines trying to make a decision on what to purchase.
>(Maybe it's a way to help justify there own engine/prop choice)
>
>Lance Wheeler, Kitfox 5 & Glastar builder
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Engine choices
>
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
>--> <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
>
>
>>Just some second hand information on this Model IV and NSI thing.
>>Michael Harter put the NSI in his classic IV and mentioned a couple
>>times that he regretted the choice. He was way heavy and just about
>>always flew over
>>
>>
>gross. Not
>
>
>>to mention the fact that John King used to have to throttle back his
>>Rotax
>>
>>
>912
>
>
>>to keep from flying circles around him.
>>
>>
>
>I have to partially agree with the above statement. Yes, the NSI (why is it
>always NSI? How about Stratus, Eggenfelner, and several others?) is not a
>perfect match for the IV because of the gross weight limitations. However
>there are a lot of satisfied owners of that combination, some of who are on
>this list and I think they grow very weary of people telling them that their
>choice was wrong. As for the last part, "flying circles around him" is a bit
>of an exageration in that Mike should have been able to easily cruise at 110
>with that CAP prop. My S5 which is larger and heavier than the IV, will
>cruise all day at 110 with 65 percent power at 4gph. Then again, I have
>lots of fairings. I had several conversations with Mike via phone and at no
>time did he even imply that he wasn't happy with his choice. He did say
>that he needed to take some time to fair up his struts and other areas, but
>was having too much fun flying to take the airplane down for that long. IMO
>the perfect match for the Classic IV is the 912S with lots of fairings. It
>would be a real rocket. However, the Rotax 912 has gotten very expensive
>and many people who can't afford it are looking for less expensive
>alternatives. This is what "Experimental" is all about and it's been going
>on since the 40s so lets let people experiment without having to feel guilty
>for it. Darrel NE Michigan
>
>
>advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Engine choices moreo n NSI wieght |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
My Airdale prototype, the Pursang, powered by a Stratus Subaru weighs
696 lb with 4 gal of gas and the tool kit.
~~Shorty~~ wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "~~Shorty~~" <shortnaked@golden.net>
>
>Ok you must have the lite weight version there Deke,
>All i know is how many Kitfoxes with the NSI weigh under 600 lbs?
>I have showed you m now you show me . :-)
>
>Shorty :)
>
>http://www.loginet.nl/europa/euroengi.htm
>NSI Subaru
>The Subaru engines are real beauties, well engineered and powerful. They are
>a bit heavy but MTOW compensation for the Europa/Subaru combination is on
>its way. We saw one in take-off at Cranfield and it really points its nose
>into the sky, the rate of climb must be incredible.
>
>http://homepage.ntlworld.com/chris.sellen/May%2000%20Project%20news.htm
>
>Again for a weight of 123lb incl. exhaust, generator, starter etc. you get
>80hp and low fuel consumption. Unfortunately it's still very expensive in
>Pietenpol terms at 6991. PFA Engineering was said to be unimpressed with
>the efficiency of its prop at 3300-rpm given our modest cruise speeds. A
>reduction-geared version is apparently under development.
>
>
>http://www.nsiaero.com/nsiaero2/3.0/3.1/3.1.1/3.1.1.17/3.1.1.17.htm
>
>
>EA81-108-TBI EA81-150-TTBI
>
>
>Engine Module Weight (Dry)..................214
>lbs..........................222 lbs.......
>
>Typical Installed Engine Weight................242
>lbs..........................263 lbs.......
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Engine choices
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>>
>>The exact weight for the NSI EA81 with everything including radiator,
>>radiator hoses, cables, motor mount, tanks, etc is 232 lbs. This isn't
>>heresay. I weighed it myself just so I would know for sure. It appears
>>that either somebody's scale is off by a whole bunch or the numbers got
>>mixed up. Another year and the NSI will be over 400 pounds.
>>Deke
>>
>>
>>
>>>The only figure I have seen comparing the 912 and the NSI EA81 was
>>>determined by Murle Williams who owns a builders support company and has
>>>
>>>
>a
>
>
>>>number of aftermarket items for the various Kitfox models.
>>>
>>>He had both engine installations handy at the time. He weighed both
>>>
>>>
>>systems
>>
>>
>>>on the same platform scale. On the same day, as I understand. The
>>>
>>>
>>weights
>>
>>
>>>included the engine with all components - fuel system, cooling system,
>>>engine mount and fluids. Everything except the cowl. The weights are
>>>
>>>
>as
>
>
>>>follows.
>>>
>>> NSI EA81 304 lbs.
>>> Rotax 912 UL 169 lbs.
>>>
>>>This might look like 200 lbs difference at first glance, but it is not.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Model 5, Subaru and Batterry |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Hi;
My Stratus weighs ready to fly right at 200 lb. and performs comparably
to a 912S.
Trey Moran wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Trey Moran" <ffmoran@centurytel.net>
>
>Question for Model 5 builders or flyers with Subaru EA81 engines, preferably with
a Stratus, but will take info on NSI. I don't like the idea of putting the
battery in the tail and was hoping someone has put the battery more forward
and can provide cg info. It would also be helpful to have cg numbers, including
weight and arm for the battery, for a plane with the forward swept wing so I
could do some what if cg calculations.
>
>Trey Moran
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: windshield mold |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Don,
I used plaster for my scoop mold. The problem I had
with it was that it is heavy and deformed the mold.
Every time I added more plaster to fill in the sag, it
just sagged more and I couldn't get a good level mold
out of it. The same will probably happen to your
windshield. I know it is more expensive, but I think
a fiberglass mold just works better. It is strong and
light enough to full and sand to a better finish.
Save the plaster for smaller molds, IMHO.
Kurt S.
--- AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> I want to make a windshield "male" mold in order to
> fabricate a fiberglass top which will cover the
> compound bend areas of the windshield. Having never
> done this, I was wondering if "plaster of Paris"
> might be the product of choice or what? I can
> visualize most of the process but when I get to
> the point of removing the mold from the windshield,
> I can see it shatter like a fine piece of glass.
>
> Any comments from you composite experts?
>
> Don Smythe
> N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Can you zero a hobbs meter? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Michel,
I think the Hobbs will run on 9 volts ok. It can
handle the difference between 9 and 12.
Your meter probably counts in 10th, so a click every 6
seconds is OK.
I suppose Hobbs isn't going to make a meter too easy
to change, or aircraft resale values could be
effected.
In the end, you may either need to run the hobbs on a
bettery around the clock until it gets to the reading
you want - and don't miss it! Or just buy a new
Hobbs?
Kurt S.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Off List: Can you zero a hobbs meter? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Michel,
Off list... Just cause I wanted to. :-)
I would probably just take the meter apart and set the
tumblers to zero, if I can. If it gets too hard, just
buy a new one is less frustrating. I have learned a
lot of mechanics by disassembling things. Some I
can't get apart without distruction and some I can't
get together again. But I always learn and consider
the replacement price, if I break it, as education
expenses.
I know your taxes will pump the price up some if you
buy one. I think we can buy one here starting at $28
plus tax and shipping. But I wonder what happens if
you check eBay?
OK, I jusy checked eBay for you. Prices start at
$5.50. How does that effect your taxes and final
costs?
Kurt S.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Engine choices moreo n NSI wieght |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
John,
What is your gross weight and can you give some
performance figures?
Kurt S.
--- John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com> wrote:
> My Airdale prototype, the Pursang, powered by a
> Stratus Subaru weighs 696 lb with 4 gal of gas
> and the tool kit.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Crankcase breather EA-81 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Rick,
I caped off that return line to the oil pan too. When
I had the origional breather, I also found that it had
plenty of "milk" from water mixing with oil. I agree
that it isn't good to send that stuff back into the
engine.
With my new breather system I don't see much water in
the oil. I think it vents better sinbce I upped the
hose size from the valve covers. But I collect maybe
1/2 qt of blown off oil in 2-3 hrs. I think that my
dipstick is wrong for this engine and that it is too
full. When I run it "low" there is less blow off
loss. I'm still working on that.
In your case, if you can just catch the blowoff in two
seperate cans, and there isn't much of it, you should
do well.
Some of the auto after-market catalogs have some good
looking small breather cans that might work.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Rick <turboflyer@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick"
> <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>
>
> I have found considerable water and muck in my
> breather and vent lines. I
> got rid of the earlier oil puking problem with the
> breather vent mod but I
> think this is worse from an engine operations and
> longevity stand point. I
> have now removed the entire modified stock system
> and am looking at going
> with a single puke can/breather mounted on each side
> of the engine lower
> than the vents on the rocker boxes. The oil drain to
> the pan has been caped
> for now. I found little oil in the original can
> after almost twenty hours on
> the new engine. If you take one of you breather
> lines off at the rocker box
> and water runs or drips out this is a bad thing. Has
> anyone else experienced
> this problem and addressed a solution. Besides I
> don't like the idea of that
> crud running back into the oil pan either.
>
> Rick
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Things to do to your Kitfox to live longer- Part 2 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
First flights and climb outs:
My FAA rep sugested that I takeoff, then angle off
downwind to parallel the runway in a position where I
can turn back easily if the engine quits. Turning
into the crosswind will make the turn easier?
If you stay over the runway, you have to have enough
straight ahead to land back for it to be a safety
support. Once you have used up the forward runway due
to your height and distance down the runway, it is no
longer useful. And to turn back requires over 180
degrees of turn to make the runway again.
But if you sidestep off the runway, you can come back
to land straight ahead at lower altitude when enough
is still available and turn back down the runway when
you are higher and past more runway than what lies in
front.
That was the suggestion anyway.
Kurt S.
__________________________________
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Crankcase breather EA-81 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "William J. Applegate" <bigapple@gct21.net>
Hi Troops,
I'm installing an Airwolf air/oil separator on my turbo Piper Dakota.
It has a T/Continental TSIO-360 engine in it and I'm noticing oil on the
bottom of the fuselage aft of the breather discharge line. This
separator uses hot exhaust from the vacuum pump to push the separated
oil back into the engine. Only a small amount of pressure is used to
accomplish this. The air/oil mixture must stay above the condensation
point to prevent water from being forced back into the engine and
causing corrosion. Whatever system you decide to use should consider
the issue of potentially increasing corrosion in the engine.
My Kitfox model 7 is still up for sale if you know of anyone who is
interested in purchasing a completely inventoried kit.
Apples
kurt schrader wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi Rick,
>
>I caped off that return line to the oil pan too. When
>I had the origional breather, I also found that it had
>plenty of "milk" from water mixing with oil. I agree
>that it isn't good to send that stuff back into the
>engine.
>
>With my new breather system I don't see much water in
>the oil. I think it vents better sinbce I upped the
>hose size from the valve covers. But I collect maybe
>1/2 qt of blown off oil in 2-3 hrs. I think that my
>dipstick is wrong for this engine and that it is too
>full. When I run it "low" there is less blow off
>loss. I'm still working on that.
>
>In your case, if you can just catch the blowoff in two
>seperate cans, and there isn't much of it, you should
>do well.
>
>Some of the auto after-market catalogs have some good
>looking small breather cans that might work.
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
>--- Rick <turboflyer@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick"
>><turboflyer@comcast.net>
>>
>>
>> I have found considerable water and muck in my
>>breather and vent lines. I
>>got rid of the earlier oil puking problem with the
>>breather vent mod but I
>>think this is worse from an engine operations and
>>longevity stand point. I
>>have now removed the entire modified stock system
>>and am looking at going
>>with a single puke can/breather mounted on each side
>>of the engine lower
>>than the vents on the rocker boxes. The oil drain to
>>the pan has been caped
>>for now. I found little oil in the original can
>>after almost twenty hours on
>>the new engine. If you take one of you breather
>>lines off at the rocker box
>>and water runs or drips out this is a bad thing. Has
>>anyone else experienced
>>this problem and addressed a solution. Besides I
>>don't like the idea of that
>>crud running back into the oil pan either.
>>
>>Rick
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Things to do to your Kitfox to live longer |
05:52:37 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/18/2005 05:52:37 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Add safety cables between the airframe and the engine. You do not have to
have a high tech prop to have a blade depart. A friend two hangers down
wrote off his Thorp when his wood fixed pitch delaminated and he lost a
blade in flight. He almost lost the engine too.
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: windshield mold |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 1/18/05 11:43:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com writes:
<< Don,
I used plaster for my scoop mold. The problem I had
with it was that it is heavy and deformed the mold.
Every time I added more plaster to fill in the sag, it
jus >>
That is a very good point that I hadn't fully grasped yet.
Do Not Archive
Don Smythe
N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Intercom problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Flybradair@cs.com
Just completed my intercom (sigtronics SPA-4S ) hookup to an Icom A-200
transceiver. I understand that this is not the same as yours but hopefully helps.
The radio headphone input (blue) wire should be wired to the tip of the
aircraft headphone jack.
The Transmit mic audio output (brown) wire should be wired to the ring
terminal of the aircraft hand mic jack. If there is no hand mic, wire it to the
mic input of the radio (on my Icom this was the comm mic input wire).
The radio transmit key output (white) wire should be wired to the tip
terminal of the aircraft hand mic jack. If no jack, wire it to key input of aircraft
radio.(On the Icom this wire actually was connected to the intercom mic input
wire, along with the PTT wire.)
Confused?
If the intercom works with no transceiver--these 3 wires that link your
transceiver to the intercom are hopefully the problem.
Hope I did not make things worse!
Brad Martin
Wichita
5 lyc-o 235
232WB
Done wiring
(Trying to finish up the other thousand items!)
In a message dated 1/17/05 5:22:24 PM Central Standard Time, Dieflyer@aol.com
writes:
> Subj: Kitfox-List: Intercom problem
> Date:1/17/05 5:22:24 PM Central Standard Time
> From:Dieflyer@aol.com
> Reply-to:kitfox-list@matronics.com
> To:kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Received from Internet:
>
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dieflyer@aol.com
>
> Hello gentlemen! I'm hoping to get some advice from someone. My sigtronics
> intercom works fine until I turn on my handfheld Sporty's 300 radio. Then I
> can
> hear the radio faintly, but the intercom stops working. Any idea what I have
>
> done wrong? I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Jabiru 2200 FF Kit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Hey there Michel...caution about running that thing on the ground. In my
opinion you CAN"T get enough cooling for a Jab. Are you planning on using
the factory baffles? I broke mine in in the air as advised by Jabiru Pacific
and Pete at USA.
Steve Cooper
Avid Mark IV
Jabiru 2200
N919SC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jabiru 2200 FF Kit
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
> I also think you have too much cooling, but you will
> find that out when you fly.
I know, Kurt. But I was given this figure: The air-in/air-out ratio should
be 1:4 for my plane. And that's what it is. Faster planes need lesser ratio.
E.g. the Jabiru aircraft that cruises (I think) at 120 knots, needs only a
1:1.5 ratio.
> Maybe that bottom
> outlet can be made variable from the cockpit?
That would be the best, Kurt. I have very much sense for simple,
mechanically operated controls. And I might do that but not now. I have seen
too many sailors or pilots, having a ... project. I had a plane and it will
be a flying plane ASAP. Improving mods will come later. As long as I can
keep my new engine from getting too hot, I'll be happy, to start with.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | calibrating an altimeter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
So much for zeroing a Hobbs meter....can anyone tell me if you can calibrate an
altimeter? If I set mine to the known runway elevation, I'm always a little
off of the barometic pressure reported by the local AWOS. Thanks for your help.
Clem Nichols
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: calibrating an altimeter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian" <experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Hi Clem,
You should have a small little screw next to the dial knob. unscrew that
till the knob can be pulled out like a watch knob. It is a little tricky but
it will work. Set to the elevation and then pull the knob out to set the
presure.
hope it helps
Jay Fabian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> So much for zeroing a Hobbs meter....can anyone tell me if you can
> calibrate an altimeter? If I set mine to the known runway elevation, I'm
> always a little off of the barometic pressure reported by the local AWOS.
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Clem Nichols
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: calibrating an altimeter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Jay:
Sounds easy enough. Thanks for your help.
Clem Nichols
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Fabian" <experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian"
> <experimental208nd@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Clem,
> You should have a small little screw next to the dial knob. unscrew that
> till the knob can be pulled out like a watch knob. It is a little tricky
> but
> it will work. Set to the elevation and then pull the knob out to set the
> presure.
> hope it helps
> Jay Fabian
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
> To: "kitfox list" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>>
>> So much for zeroing a Hobbs meter....can anyone tell me if you can
>> calibrate an altimeter? If I set mine to the known runway elevation, I'm
>> always a little off of the barometic pressure reported by the local AWOS.
>> Thanks for your help.
>>
>> Clem Nichols
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.7.0 - Release Date: 1/17/2005
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 25
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| Subject: | calibrating an altimeter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
How about the other way.
Can anyone explain why both my GPS's consistently give a GPS altitude about
400 feet too high against the altimeter. The altitude on my altimeter
matches the airdrome altitude when it is set according to ATIS.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jay Fabian
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian"
<experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Hi Clem,
You should have a small little screw next to the dial knob. unscrew that
till the knob can be pulled out like a watch knob. It is a little tricky but
it will work. Set to the elevation and then pull the knob out to set the
presure.
hope it helps
Jay Fabian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> So much for zeroing a Hobbs meter....can anyone tell me if you can
> calibrate an altimeter? If I set mine to the known runway elevation, I'm
> always a little off of the barometic pressure reported by the local AWOS.
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Clem Nichols
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: windshield mold |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Don, I think this is a good point. I seem to remember you used the .093
Lexan and it might sag some with plaster unless you support the windshield
from the inside. I tend to agree with Kurt about using the fiberglass. If
it was my project, I would mask thoroughly all surfaces not intended to be
in the mold, using several layers of different materials, i.e. plastic,
paper, plastic. Then wax the windshield, spray on some PVA, lay up a first
layer or two of glass. Then add some stiffeners like half round molding or
feathered foam shapes, to give it some stiffness, then add several more
layers of glass. I think when finished, I would add some 1/4" plywood in
and eggcrate fashion to give it overall stiffness - let cure and then pop it
off.
For a great final finish on the final piece, fill and sand the mold, wax it
spray on the PVA and do the lay-up. When you are done with yours, you can
make one up for me.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshield mold
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Don,
>
> I used plaster for my scoop mold. The problem I had
> with it was that it is heavy and deformed the mold.
> Every time I added more plaster to fill in the sag, it
> just sagged more and I couldn't get a good level mold
> out of it. The same will probably happen to your
> windshield. I know it is more expensive, but I think
> a fiberglass mold just works better. It is strong and
> light enough to full and sand to a better finish.
> Save the plaster for smaller molds, IMHO.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I want to make a windshield "male" mold in order to
> > fabricate a fiberglass top which will cover the
> > compound bend areas of the windshield. Having never
>
> > done this, I was wondering if "plaster of Paris"
> > might be the product of choice or what? I can
> > visualize most of the process but when I get to
> > the point of removing the mold from the windshield,
> > I can see it shatter like a fine piece of glass.
> >
> > Any comments from you composite experts?
> >
> > Don Smythe
> > N-998DS Classic IV W/ 582
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
>
>
> BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Teach CanIt if this mail (ID 82803410) is spam:
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Message 27
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| Subject: | calibrating an altimeter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Steve,
Not sure if it is as true now, but when the GPS was
derated by the military, the altitudes were usually
pretty far off. It was my understanding that in order
to give the attention to horizontal accuracy, the
verticle accuracy was allowed to suffer.
I don't even look at my GPS altitude because it is
usually off high like yours. Haven't checked it in a
year to see if it changed in accuracy. But my
transponder has a window that reads out the 29.92
altitude it is reporting and I do check against that.
It is my rough backup altimeter.
Kurt S.
--- Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca> wrote:
> How about the other way.
>
> Can anyone explain why both my GPS's consistently
> give a GPS altitude about 400 feet too high against
> the altimeter. The altitude on my altimeter
> matches the airdrome altitude when it is set
> according to ATIS.
>
> SteveZ
> Calgary
__________________________________
Message 28
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| Subject: | calibrating an altimeter |
06:34:06,
Serialize complete at 19/01/2005 06:34:06
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: r.thomas@za.pwc.com
Hi Steve
Good question. I did some research on this back in 2000 just after the
selective error was turned off.
In short, the GPS uses a mathematical calculation to 'estimate' the
earth's shape. This estimated shape is called a Geoid. The Geoid is kinda
an average of all the area around you. For this reason GPS cannot be used
for instrument approaches to an airfield unless there is a GPS correction
beacon in the vicinity.
I wrote a short explanation in our club newsletter, for more info check
out http://www.flying.org.za/news16.htm
Hope that helps
Regards
Roger
Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
19/01/2005 06:15 AM
Please respond to
kitfox-list@matronics.com
To
kitfox-list@matronics.com
cc
Subject
RE: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
Size: 5 Kb
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
How about the other way.
Can anyone explain why both my GPS's consistently give a GPS altitude
about
400 feet too high against the altimeter. The altitude on my altimeter
matches the airdrome altitude when it is set according to ATIS.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jay Fabian
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian"
<experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Hi Clem,
You should have a small little screw next to the dial knob. unscrew that
till the knob can be pulled out like a watch knob. It is a little tricky
but
it will work. Set to the elevation and then pull the knob out to set the
presure.
hope it helps
Jay Fabian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: calibrating an altimeter
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> So much for zeroing a Hobbs meter....can anyone tell me if you can
> calibrate an altimeter? If I set mine to the known runway elevation,
I'm
> always a little off of the barometic pressure reported by the local
AWOS.
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Clem Nichols
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
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