Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:39 AM - SV: Jabiru installation (Michel Verheughe)
2. 02:19 AM - SV: Re wooden propeller for Jabiru motor (Michel Verheughe)
3. 03:38 AM - Re: antifreeze Link Broken ! (Fox5flyer)
4. 03:51 AM - Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Fox5flyer)
5. 04:31 AM - Re: Drag/anti-drag tubes (Steve Zakreski)
6. 05:09 AM - Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Chenoweth)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Fox5flyer)
8. 07:05 AM - SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Michel Verheughe)
9. 08:19 AM - Re: Electrical question (Roger Standley)
10. 08:28 AM - Re: SV: Jabiru installation (Lynn Matteson)
11. 08:37 AM - Re: antifreeze (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
12. 08:56 AM - ordering (hausding, sid)
13. 09:28 AM - Re: Electrical question (flier)
14. 09:29 AM - Re: Tach failure (Pete Sigrist)
15. 09:33 AM - Re: antifreeze (flier)
16. 09:38 AM - Re: Tach failure (Marco Menezes)
17. 09:42 AM - Kitfox 2 (Don Gherardini)
18. 09:59 AM - Sport pilot category (Don Gherardini)
19. 10:01 AM - Re: ordering (kurt schrader)
20. 10:16 AM - Re: Sport pilot category (Steve Cooper)
21. 10:19 AM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (kurt schrader)
22. 10:58 AM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Tom Jones)
23. 11:40 AM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Fox5flyer)
24. 11:44 AM - Re: Sport pilot category (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
25. 12:21 PM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Randy Daughenbaugh)
26. 12:22 PM - Re: Sport pilot category (Gary Henderson)
27. 12:37 PM - Re: Sport pilot category (Steve Cooper)
28. 12:39 PM - Evans coolant in the 2 Stroke (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
29. 12:40 PM - Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Chenoweth)
30. 12:57 PM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Tom Jones)
31. 01:14 PM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Michel Verheughe)
32. 01:19 PM - Re: Kitfox 2 (Michel Verheughe)
33. 01:33 PM - Re: Kitfox 2 (Harris, Robert)
34. 01:38 PM - Re: ordering security (John Larsen)
35. 01:45 PM - Re: Re:K7forsale (John Larsen)
36. 01:45 PM - Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (hausding, sid)
37. 02:20 PM - Re: Kitfox 2 (Michel Verheughe)
38. 03:00 PM - Re: Sport pilot category (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
39. 03:56 PM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Tom Jones)
40. 03:56 PM - Re: Sport pilot category (Bruce Harrington)
41. 04:19 PM - Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Tom Jones)
42. 04:47 PM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Fox5flyer)
43. 05:46 PM - Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (hausding, sid)
44. 06:15 PM - Re: SV: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm (Randy Daughenbaugh)
45. 06:42 PM - Re: Kitfox 2 (Lynn Matteson)
46. 08:04 PM - Re: Drag/anti-drag tubes (DPREMGOOD@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Jabiru installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
> This is like Christmas with a family of over 300
> watching 2 kids open presents. :-)
Gosh! Now you make me feel nervous, Kurt. I hope I'll be able to open it nicely
tomorrow! :-)
> From: Lynn Matteson [lynnmatt@jps.net]
> To say nothing of NO ANTIFREEZE problems...one less thing to worry
> about. : )
Yes, I was also about to comment on that, Lynn, but I didn't wanted to be rub it
in! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re wooden propeller for Jabiru motor |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: Steve Cooper [spdrflyr@earthlink.net]
> Thanks for the report Rex.
I agree with Rex, Steve, get all the data before deciding on a propeller for the
Jabiru. Although I saw for myself the Norwegian Kitfox with a Jabiru and Warp
Drive that had 700 hours, last summer, it is better to check twice and play
safe. Ask the Australian manufacturers and ask the three US agents, they know
a lot about their products. All of them are on the yahoo.jabiruengines list. If
you want, I can ask for you.
As you know, I went for a wooden fixed pitch Jabiru propeller because I want to
play safe. But, in time, a variable pitch could be nice to have. But I am in
no hurry.
Lynn, yes, the idea of a retention cable has also crossed my mind, especially after
reading on this list the member (sorry, forgot his name) who nearly lost
his engine after a blade departed in-flight, in his Kitfox on floats. A story
that really makes you think.
I have a vague idea how such a wire could be fixed around the engine, through the
firewall, and around the frame of the plane. I haven't done it yet because
my installation took a long time and ... the hangar is bloody cold! :-) I hope
my engine will stay in place for the maiden flight ... and a bit more. But, yes,
I intend to have a retaining wire.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: antifreeze Link Broken ! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Try a "copy-paste" into your browser and remove the parens. The linked
worked ok for me.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Smathers" <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: antifreeze Link Broken !
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
>
> I tried to go there and it said the link was no longer there???
>
> Jeff Smathers
>
> Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
<morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >
> > Wow, talk about too much information! The more I read the more confused
I
> > got. I think (not positive) that the Prestone Extended Life will do
just
> > fine in the aluminum engines. That seems to be the consensus of the
> > information I gleaned so I just bought a gallon.
> > Anybody else see it differently?
> > Deke
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Wwillyard@aol.com>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: antifreeze
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
> > >
> > > Here is an interesting and informative link regarding coolants. I did
note
> > a
> > > very interesting point regarding the new extended life (orange)
coolants,
> > > they are intended to provide added protection of aluminum and are
> > intended for
> > > use in systems with aluminum radiators.
> > >
> > > _http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/vmax/coolantnotes.htm_
> > > (http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/vmax/coolantnotes.htm)
> > >
> > > Bill W.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I know that some won't agree with this, but you might even try increasing
pitch a little more so that your static is 5800-6000. As you get rolling
your rpm will increase, depending on which type prop you have. (Mine was
GSC) You'll get more stable EGTs, your cruise will improve, and your
takeoff distance will change only slightly. Once you get dialed in forget
worrying about what degree it is. Go for static rpm after that. Here in
northeast Michigan I used to repitch for 5800 about 3 times a year as
ambient temps would change. Repitch and rejet at the same time. The 582 is
very sensitive to OAT.
Hang on a minute while I don my flak jacket...
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: <r.thomas@za.pwc.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: r.thomas@za.pwc.com
>
> Hi Dave S
>
> I recently did a re-pitch on my GSC 3 blade also on a 582. Initially it
> was at 12.5 degrees and I was able to break over red line in flight (In
> fact on the take off roll).
>
> I re-pitched to 13.75 degrees measured at 1 inch from the blade tips. It
> has brought my static to about 6150. In flight it has come down to 6700
> which I am happy with.
>
> As Bruce said, it is advisable to do it a degree or even half at a time. 1
> degree of pitch makes a huge difference.
>
> Regards
> Roger
>
> The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
> which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged
> material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or
> taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or
> entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you
> received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material
> from any computer.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Drag/anti-drag tubes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
Jim
I recall having the same problem with my Classic 4. I eventually did find a
way to get them to work with minor adjustment and no cutting. If you can
hang on for a week I'll go out to the hanger and take photos. For a while,
I could have sworn they were manufactured incorrectly.
SteveZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom Jones
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Drag/anti-drag tubes
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Jim,
I had to file a little off the ends just to make them look and fit like
the picture in the manual. Maybe someone that hasn't covered their wing
yet can measure some for you to compare to before you cut them. It
might be that something else is not in the correct place instead.
Tom Jones
jim cantrell wrote:
>
> Can anyone remember if they had to shorten the drag/anti-drag tubes in the
wings?, mine seem to be about a 1/2" too long.
> Jim Cantrell
> Kitfox S5TD about 50%
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
Well, Deke, that's refreshing. I've got a blue-head 582 with 3 blade GSC
and have had the same experience. I actually flew most of last summer with
pitch set for about 5500 or 5600 static. Because, if I didn't pitch that
fat the mid range egts wanted to be above 1200. At that pitch I could just
get to red line in level flight at full throttle. My take off performance
wasn't the best but cruise certainly was. I've recently reduced the pitch
so that I'm at 6050 static but my egt problems are coming back.
I've raised this problem with both Eric Tucker and the very helpful folk at
Lockwood. I get the impression they think I'm nuts. Had me check tach and
all but I'm using a Tiny Tach which I've checked multiple times with a
strobe. Personally I think it's outrageous that when I set the pitch to get
the static rpm specified in the manual I can't run the engine in flight
without egt problems even with outrageously rich jetting.
Now I'm actually considering an Ivo in-flight adjustable prop.
Bill
Albion, Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
> I know that some won't agree with this, but you might even try increasing
> pitch a little more so that your static is 5800-6000. As you get rolling
> your rpm will increase, depending on which type prop you have. (Mine was
> GSC) You'll get more stable EGTs, your cruise will improve, and your
> takeoff distance will change only slightly. Once you get dialed in forget
> worrying about what degree it is. Go for static rpm after that. Here in
> northeast Michigan I used to repitch for 5800 about 3 times a year as
> ambient temps would change. Repitch and rejet at the same time. The 582
is
> very sensitive to OAT.
> Hang on a minute while I don my flak jacket...
> Deke
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Hang onto something. Here they come. :-)
Actually Bill, 5500 is a bit low, but if you don't need to get off the
ground in 150' (nothing wrong with 250') and you're getting good plug
readings, then what ever works best for you IMO. You just don't want to get
rpms too low with full power because it can possibly cause detonation and
with all the noise of the prop you wouldn't hear it. If I were you I'd fool
around with jetting and keep the static rpm up a little higher than 5500 to
take advantage of the horsepower curve.
Deke
> Well, Deke, that's refreshing. I've got a blue-head 582 with 3 blade GSC
> and have had the same experience. I actually flew most of last summer
with
> pitch set for about 5500 or 5600 static. Because, if I didn't pitch that
> fat the mid range egts wanted to be above 1200. At that pitch I could
just
> get to red line in level flight at full throttle. My take off performance
> wasn't the best but cruise certainly was. I've recently reduced the pitch
> so that I'm at 6050 static but my egt problems are coming back.
> I've raised this problem with both Eric Tucker and the very helpful folk
at
> Lockwood. I get the impression they think I'm nuts. Had me check tach
and
> all but I'm using a Tiny Tach which I've checked multiple times with a
> strobe. Personally I think it's outrageous that when I set the pitch to
get
> the static rpm specified in the manual I can't run the engine in flight
> without egt problems even with outrageously rich jetting.
> Now I'm actually considering an Ivo in-flight adjustable prop.
> Bill
> Albion, Maine
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
<morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >
> > I know that some won't agree with this, but you might even try
increasing
> > pitch a little more so that your static is 5800-6000. As you get
rolling
> > your rpm will increase, depending on which type prop you have. (Mine
was
> > GSC) You'll get more stable EGTs, your cruise will improve, and your
> > takeoff distance will change only slightly. Once you get dialed in
forget
> > worrying about what degree it is. Go for static rpm after that. Here
in
> > northeast Michigan I used to repitch for 5800 about 3 times a year as
> > ambient temps would change. Repitch and rejet at the same time. The
582
> is
> > very sensitive to OAT.
> > Hang on a minute while I don my flak jacket...
> > Deke
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: David Savener [david_savener@msn.com]
> I had to set mine at 18 degrees to get 6200 rpm with the airplane sitting still.
The other day, I was looking on the internet how to convert pitch in inches to
pitch in degrees but I couldn't find it. So, I took a piece of paper and a pen
and I think I figured it out. But, just to check that I am right:
- You take the diameter (at the tip or 75% or wherever you want to measure) that
you multiply by PI to get the circumference of one revolution. Then you take
the radius that you divide by that circumference and you extract the arcTangent
of it, right?
Or, is it more complicated?
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical question |
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:18:31 -0800
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Hi Larry,
Sorry to be slow responding. Have you solved this "problem"? My IV / 912ul is similarly
configured and I solved this situation by doing some power management.
I would be happy to elaborate but you may be on top of this already.
Roger
IV 1200 / 912ul
----- Original Message -----
From: New one<mailto:Larryandjo@wiacomm.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 11:50 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Electrical question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: " New one" <Larryandjo@wiacomm.net<mailto:Larryandjo@wiacomm.net>>
Greeting list,
We have a model IV 1200 with a rotax 912ul. We have added strobes, landing
and taxi lights, hardwired GPS, stereo intercomm. I think we are running out
of juice. The EFIS shows it is drawing 11.7 volts, which may not be enough
to charge the battery. The battery is discharging and needs to be recharged
regularly. We do not have an alternator and would rather not spend eight
hundred dollars on one. What should we do? Bigger regulator/rectifier?
Anyone with help would be greatly appriciated.
Larry Austin
N997LG
Ft Worth Texas
p.s. Any Kitfoxers in the DFW metroplex want to go to SEP for BBQ soon???
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Living as I do in Michigan, and being "the last kid on the block" to do
the yearly antifreeze check, I once bought a Corvair, thinking that I'd
beat everybody else to the warm fuzzy feeling that this year my cooling
system is in order. : )
Lynn
do not archive
On Monday, February 14, 2005, at 04:38 AM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
>> This is like Christmas with a family of over 300
>> watching 2 kids open presents. :-)
>
> Gosh! Now you make me feel nervous, Kurt. I hope I'll be able to open
> it nicely tomorrow! :-)
>
>> From: Lynn Matteson [lynnmatt@jps.net]
>> To say nothing of NO ANTIFREEZE problems...one less thing to worry
>> about. : )
>
> Yes, I was also about to comment on that, Lynn, but I didn't wanted to
> be rub it in! :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
kitplanes magazine had an article last month on coolant for rotax, offering to
options. Havoline Dex and a "no water" coolant that is pretty pricy as I recall.
John
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy
>
> My understanding is the orange silica free GM attacks the silicone on their
> intake gaskets. I changed to the Havoline Dex Cool in my 532 and my EA81
> before I heard from a radiator shop to get it out of anything you own.
> For what it is worth I had a self proclaimed Rotax repairman say if it
> mixes with oil it will gum up the bearings and wipe them out. I do know it
> looks like thick black syrup in the oil of a GM. Not milky as the green
> antifreeze. When you check your oil in the car you wonder why it is dirty
> and overfilled not a color change.
> I changed because the Europeans say they do not have the seal problems
> on the 582 pumps with the silica free. Maybe that was a rumor started by
> Haveline.
>
> Dwight model ll
>
>
> At 06:35 PM 2/12/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> >
> >
> >In a message dated 2/12/2005 6:24:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >morid@northland.lib.mi.us writes:
> >
> >I've just pulled my radiator to clean the bugs out of it and before
> >reinstalling and putting new anti-freeze in it I was wondering if any on the
> >list have input on what is the best type to use with an aluminum engine.
> >How often is considered optimum for changing it out? Can it be changed too
> >often?
> >All opinions welcome!
> >Deke
> >
> >
> >Deke,
> > I use the "orange" Havoline Dex Cool even thou I've read some bad
> > things
> >about it. I change it at least once a year and most the time, twice. Every
> >time the weather goes from hot to cold and again back from cold to hot. I
> >normally increased the water content for the summer months from 50/50 to
> >70/30
> >(water/antifreeze).
> > I welcome a good discussion on this topic. What about the Dex Cool for
> >GM engines? It meets all the criteria for alum engines but have read where
> >the stuff has caused problems in GM engines. On the other hand, the stuff
> >would sit a lot longer in a GM car than in my Fox.
> >
> >
> >--
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> >Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 2/10/2005
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
>
>
>
kitplanes magazine had an article last month on coolant for rotax, offering to
options. Havoline Dex and a "no water" coolant that is pretty pricy as I recall.
John
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy <DPURDY@COMTECK.COM>
My understanding is the orange silica free GM attacks the silicone on their
intake gaskets. I changed to the Havoline Dex Cool in my 532 and my EA81
before I heard from a radiator shop to get it out of anything you own.
For what it is worth I had a self proclaimed Rotax repairman say if it
mixes with oil it will gum up the bearings and wipe them out. I do know it
looks like thick black syrup in the oil of a GM. Not milky as the green
antifreeze. When you check your oil in the car you wonder why it is dirty
and overfilled not a color change.
I changed because the Europeans say they do not have the seal problems
on the 582 pumps with the silica free. Maybe that was
a rumor started by
Haveline.
Dwight model ll
At 06:35 PM 2/12/2005 -0500, you wrote:
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 2/12/2005 6:24:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
morid@northland.lib.mi.us writes:
I've just pulled my radiator to clean the bugs out of it and before
reinstalling and putting new anti-freeze in it I was wondering if any on the
list have input on what is the best type to use with an aluminum engine.
How often is considered optimum for changing it out? Can it be changed too
often?
All opinions welcome!
Deke
Deke,
I use the "orange" Havoline Dex Cool even thou I've read some bad
things
about it. I change it at lea
st once a year and most the time, twice. Every
time the weather goes from hot to cold and again back from cold to hot. I
normally increased the water content for the summer months from 50/50 to
70/30
(water/antifreeze).
I welcome a good discussion on this topic. What about the Dex Cool for
GM engines? It meets all the criteria for alum engines but have read where
the stuff has caused problems in GM engines. On the other hand, the stuff
would sit a lot longer in a GM car than in my Fox.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 2/10/2005
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
=========================================
>
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
www.airdale.com
--------------------------------
Kitfox-List message posted by: Tc9008@aol.com
How do I get in touch with Airedale? I can't seem to locate any flaperons in
stock for a model IV?
Travis
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
The 912ul only has an ~18A supply available if I
recall correctly. Either go with an add-on
alternator or reduce current draw. I find that
strobes with position lights in conjunction with
everything else will draw too much current to sustain
for long and continue to charge the battery.
--- Original Message ---
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Electrical question
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley"
<taildragon@msn.com>
>
>Hi Larry,
>
>Sorry to be slow responding. Have you solved
this "problem"? My IV / 912ul is similarly configured
and I solved this situation by doing some power
management. I would be happy to elaborate but you may
be on top of this already.
>
>Roger
>IV 1200 / 912ul
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: New one<mailto:Larryandjo@wiacomm.net>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-
list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 11:50 AM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Electrical question
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: " New one"
<Larryandjo@wiacomm.net<mailto:Larryandjo@wiacomm.net>
>
>
> Greeting list,
> We have a model IV 1200 with a rotax 912ul. We
have added strobes, landing
> and taxi lights, hardwired GPS, stereo intercomm.
I think we are running out
> of juice. The EFIS shows it is drawing 11.7 volts,
which may not be enough
> to charge the battery. The battery is discharging
and needs to be recharged
> regularly. We do not have an alternator and would
rather not spend eight
> hundred dollars on one. What should we do? Bigger
regulator/rectifier?
> Anyone with help would be greatly appriciated.
>
> Larry Austin
> N997LG
> Ft Worth Texas
>
> p.s. Any Kitfoxers in the DFW metroplex want to go
to SEP for BBQ soon???
>
>
>_-
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Forums.
>_-
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tach failure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Pete Sigrist" <psigrist@cox.net>
>Marco,
If you still have the tach problem, an easy fix is to get a tach that takes
it's impulses from a spark plug wire. You simply attach two wires, one to
ground and one to the plug wire. I've had very good luck with these on both
503's and 582's and not so good luck with other tachs.
A really cheap and pretty reliable one is the Tiny Tach. It also acts as a
Hobbs meter.
Pete Sigrist
Rans S-12 582, KF 912
>
> So my question is, what now? Presumably, the stator-mounted resistor has
failed. Did this also kill the tach? Do I really have to rewire the stator
to solve this or will replacement of tach with a new in-line resistor do it?
I'd rather not pull the engine and would appreciate any advice you 582
flyers out there might have.
>
>
> Thanks. Marco Menezes
> KF 2 N99KX
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
I'm switching over to Evans waterless in my 912.
It's $25 a gallon and $16/gal for the flush although
you can use the remaining flush to top off the
coolant if more than a gallon is needed. You can
switch a 912 over for ~$50 and you don't have to
change it periodically as it's a lifetime coolant.
Rotax now recommends it to address the 912's hotspot
issues.
--- Original Message ---
From: kerrjohna@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: antifreeze
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by:
kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
>kitplanes magazine had an article last month on
coolant for rotax, offering to options. Havoline Dex
and a "no water" coolant that is pretty pricy as I
recall.
>
>John
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy
>>
>> My understanding is the orange silica free GM
attacks the silicone on their
>> intake gaskets. I changed to the Havoline Dex Cool
in my 532 and my EA81
>> before I heard from a radiator shop to get it out
of anything you own.
>> For what it is worth I had a self proclaimed Rotax
repairman say if it
>> mixes with oil it will gum up the bearings and
wipe them out. I do know it
>> looks like thick black syrup in the oil of a GM.
Not milky as the green
>> antifreeze. When you check your oil in the car you
wonder why it is dirty
>> and overfilled not a color change.
>> I changed because the Europeans say they do not
have the seal problems
>> on the 582 pumps with the silica free. Maybe that
was a rumor started by
>> Haveline.
>>
>> Dwight model ll
>>
>>
>> At 06:35 PM 2/12/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by:
AlbertaIV@aol.com
>> >
>> >
>> >In a message dated 2/12/2005 6:24:29 PM Eastern
Standard Time,
>> >morid@northland.lib.mi.us writes:
>> >
>> >I've just pulled my radiator to clean the bugs
out of it and before
>> >reinstalling and putting new anti-freeze in it I
was wondering if any on the
>> >list have input on what is the best type to use
with an aluminum engine.
>> >How often is considered optimum for changing it
out? Can it be changed too
>> >often?
>> >All opinions welcome!
>> >Deke
>> >
>> >
>> >Deke,
>> > I use the "orange" Havoline Dex Cool even thou
I've read some bad
>> > things
>> >about it. I change it at least once a year and
most the time, twice. Every
>> >time the weather goes from hot to cold and again
back from cold to hot. I
>> >normally increased the water content for the
summer months from 50/50 to
>> >70/30
>> >(water/antifreeze).
>> > I welcome a good discussion on this topic. What
about the Dex Cool for
>> >GM engines? It meets all the criteria for alum
engines but have read where
>> >the stuff has caused problems in GM engines. On
the other hand, the stuff
>> >would sit a lot longer in a GM car than in my
Fox.
>> >
>> >
>> >--
>> >No virus found in this incoming message.
>> >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>> >Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 -
Release Date: 2/10/2005
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>kitplanes magazine had an article last month on
coolant for rotax, offering to options. Havoline Dex
and a "no water" coolant that is pretty pricy as I
recall.
>
>John
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy
<DPURDY@COMTECK.COM>
>
> My understanding is the orange silica free GM
attacks the silicone on their
> intake gaskets. I changed to the Havoline Dex Cool
in my 532 and my EA81
> before I heard from a radiator shop to get it out
of anything you own.
> For what it is worth I had a self proclaimed Rotax
repairman say if it
> mixes with oil it will gum up the bearings and wipe
them out. I do know it
> looks like thick black syrup in the oil of a GM.
Not milky as the green
> antifreeze. When you check your oil in the car you
wonder why it is dirty
> and overfilled not a color change.
> I changed because the Europeans say they do not
have the seal problems
> on the 582 pumps with the silica free. Maybe that
was
> a rumor started by
> Haveline.
>
> Dwight model ll
>
>
> At 06:35 PM 2/12/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 2/12/2005 6:24:29 PM Eastern
Standard Time,
> morid@northland.lib.mi.us writes:
>
> I've just pulled my radiator to clean the bugs out
of it and before
> reinstalling and putting new anti-freeze in it I
was wondering if any on the
> list have input on what is the best type to use
with an aluminum engine.
> How often is considered optimum for changing it
out? Can it be changed too
> often?
> All opinions welcome!
> Deke
>
>
> Deke,
> I use the "orange" Havoline Dex Cool even thou
I've read some bad
> things
> about it. I change it at lea
> st once a year and most the time, twice. Every
> time the weather goes from hot to cold and again
back from cold to hot. I
> normally increased the water content for the summer
months from 50/50 to
> 70/30
> (water/antifreeze).
> I welcome a good discussion on this topic. What
about the Dex Cool for
> GM engines? It meets all the criteria for alum
engines but have read where
> the stuff has caused problems in GM engines. On the
other hand, the stuff
> would sit a lot longer in a GM car than in my Fox.
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 -
Release Date: 2/10/2005
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
> =========================================
>>
>
>
>_-
======================================================
===============
Contributions
any other
Forums.
>_-
======================================================
===============
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>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tach failure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Thanks Pete. That's a much easier solution than the "factory recommended" fix.
Pete Sigrist <psigrist@cox.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Pete Sigrist"
>Marco,
If you still have the tach problem, an easy fix is to get a tach that takes
it's impulses from a spark plug wire. You simply attach two wires, one to
ground and one to the plug wire. I've had very good luck with these on both
503's and 582's and not so good luck with other tachs.
A really cheap and pretty reliable one is the Tiny Tach. It also acts as a
Hobbs meter.
Pete Sigrist
Rans S-12 582, KF 912
>
> So my question is, what now? Presumably, the stator-mounted resistor has
failed. Did this also kill the tach? Do I really have to rewire the stator
to solve this or will replacement of tach with a new in-line resistor do it?
I'd rather not pull the engine and would appreciate any advice you 582
flyers out there might have.
>
>
> Thanks. Marco Menezes
> KF 2 N99KX
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Gents, I have been lurking here for awhile as I am considering purchaseing a
Kitfox2.
I wonder if any here might be able to answer a few questions I have about
that older model.
1:The airfoil is said to be different than on the 3 and newer models. what
effect did this have?
2: the vertical is also mentioned on the Skystar history homepage as being
enlarged on newer models to compensate for the neutral yaw of the older
models. can anyone tell me just how taill the newer verticals are?..and
maybe how wide?
GW listed as 950 on the model II, and higher on subsequent models. were
there any fuselage changes anyone knows about that might be wise to update
to when re-building a wrecked model II?
For that matter, any mods at all that might be considered an "update" to
make when rebuilding a damaged model II??
any opinions are certainly welcome....speculations and general conversation
about a old model II kitfox.
Thx
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Gents
Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way of
paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
category?
And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting our
medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
registered experimental?
OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp registered
bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number and
registration?
I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead to
do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Travis,
One thing about this list is that some very important
people on it don't crow about themselves here. "Mr
Airdale" is on this list with us, as is Mr RiteAngle,
Mr NSI and a host of other businessmen, producers, and
highly experienced pilots. There are so many good
people to talk to right here it is amazing. :-)
Sid gave the site. Try also:
John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net> wrote:
> www.airdale.com
> --------------------------------
>
>
> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tc9008@aol.com
>
> How do I get in touch with Airedale? I can't seem to
> locate any flaperons in stock for a model IV?
> Travis
__________________________________
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Any aircraft, regardless of class or category that meets the limitation of a
Light Sport Aircraft IS an LSA by definition. It's automatic and requires no
further paperwork. A j-3 REGESTERED IN THE Standard Category IS
automatically an LSA because it meets the limitations of LSA. Likewise, an
Avid Mark IV or a Kitfox registered in the Special Category as an
Experimental Amateur built is automatically a Light Sport Aircraft as long
as it meets the limitations of an LSA. 1320 Gross, No in-flight adjustable
prop, fixed gear and 137 MPH Max cruise. A Certificate Sport Pilot is
ellegible to fly ANY Light Sport Aircraft regardless of the class or
category it is registered.
Steve Cooper
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
Subject: Kitfox-List: Sport pilot category
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Gents
Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way of
paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
category?
And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting our
medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
registered experimental?
OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp registered
bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number and
registration?
I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead to
do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Michel,
I know there are a few do-it-yourself people on this
list so I'll offer the following.
To make a protractor that measures degrees directly:
Take 360 degrees
Divide by PI - 3.1416 = 114.6 units
That is the diameter in units
Divide by 2 = 57.29 (or 57.3)
That is the radius in units
Pick your favorite units - Inches, Centimeters, feet
or miles. Doesn't matter.
Whatever units you use, 57.3 of them is the radius
that gives one unit per degree of change.
OK, in English. Take 2 sticks of wood or aluminum
that are 57.3 inches, or 57.3 cm long from a drilled
hole in one end to the other tip. Bolt them together
at the hole. Each unit (inch or CM) you seperate
their tips by equals one degree.
Now you have a cheap protractor to measure angles
directly in degrees. The harder thing (not by much)
to do is make something that forms the plane of prop
rotation to measure off of to the blade and get your
angle.
Did any of this make sense? I once learned math as a
second language and it is hard to translate.
Kurt S
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> > From: David Savener [david_savener@msn.com]
> > I had to set mine at 18 degrees to get 6200 rpm
> with the airplane sitting still.
>
> The other day, I was looking on the internet how to
> convert pitch in inches to pitch in degrees but I
> couldn't find it. So, I took a piece of paper and a
> pen and I think I figured it out. But, just to check
> that I am right:
> - You take the diameter (at the tip or 75% or
> wherever you want to measure) that you multiply by
> PI to get the circumference of one revolution. Then
> you take the radius that you divide by that
> circumference and you extract the arcTangent of it,
> right?
> Or, is it more complicated?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
> Now you have a cheap protractor to measure angles
> directly in degrees. The harder thing (not by much)
> to do is make something that forms the plane of prop
> rotation to measure off of to the blade and get your
> angle.
I use the wall of my shop and a laser pointer attached to the prop with
a home made bracket for that. It is flat but close enough. At ten feet
away one degree is 2 inches. Here's a picture from the uploads on
sportflight. http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Laser_bracket.jpg
Tom Jones
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Good one Tom. I have a question though. Using as an example the GSC prop,
you place the bracket against the back side of the prop, but the back of the
prop isn't flat. How do you ensure you have the bracket lined up exactly
the same on each blade? Do you have the bracket airfoiled so that it sets
flush with the blade?
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jones" <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
>
>
> > Now you have a cheap protractor to measure angles
> > directly in degrees. The harder thing (not by much)
> > to do is make something that forms the plane of prop
> > rotation to measure off of to the blade and get your
> > angle.
>
> I use the wall of my shop and a laser pointer attached to the prop with
> a home made bracket for that. It is flat but close enough. At ten feet
> away one degree is 2 inches. Here's a picture from the uploads on
> sportflight. http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Laser_bracket.jpg
> Tom Jones
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements related
to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
>
> Gents
>
> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
> category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way of
> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
> category?
> And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting our
> medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
> registered experimental?
>
> OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp registered
> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number and
> registration?
>
> I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead to
> do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
>
>
> Don Gherardini
> FireFly 098
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements related
to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini" <DONGHE@ONE-ELEVEN.NET>
Gents
Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way of
paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
category?
And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting our
medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
registered experimental?
OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp registered
bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number and
registration?
I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper
-pushing chore ahead to
do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
DO NOT ARCHIVE
w.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
Message 25
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| Subject: | Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
I used Tom's idea - slightly modified. I cut a blade profile into a scrap
of 2x4 with a band saw and then fit it to the blade with a bit of
polyethylene food wrap on the blade and a thin layer of bondo on the 2x4.
It provides a precise fit to the blade. I put the laser on it to point
down. I feel this is more accurate as the mark doesn't move as much if the
blades are not in exactly the same place.
I wasn't as accurate as Kurt's math, but with a trig table, I decided that 1
inch on the floor is about 1 degree. I put a level on the blade to put them
into the same position. With a pencil mark on the floor, it is fairly easy
to get all the blades the same within an eighth of an inch, or eighth of a
degree. The close fitting 2x4 also is a great "wrench" to move the blade.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Good one Tom. I have a question though. Using as an example the GSC prop,
you place the bracket against the back side of the prop, but the back of the
prop isn't flat. How do you ensure you have the bracket lined up exactly
the same on each blade? Do you have the bracket airfoiled so that it sets
flush with the blade?
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jones" <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
>
>
> > Now you have a cheap protractor to measure angles
> > directly in degrees. The harder thing (not by much)
> > to do is make something that forms the plane of prop
> > rotation to measure off of to the blade and get your
> > angle.
>
> I use the wall of my shop and a laser pointer attached to the prop with
> a home made bracket for that. It is flat but close enough. At ten feet
> away one degree is 2 inches. Here's a picture from the uploads on
> sportflight. http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Laser_bracket.jpg
> Tom Jones
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Henderson" <gjglh@cebridge.net>
I don't think the FAA even knows what they want yet. I have a friend who
just finished his model IV last month. The FAA came to check out his plane
for sport pilot certification and told him they did not have the correct
forms yet and he would be back in two weeks. He did tell him that if he
certified as amature built he could not go back to Sport. This did not
mean it couldn't fly as sport.
Gary
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
> related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
>
> John Kerr
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
>>
>> Gents
>>
>> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
>> category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
>> of
>> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
>> category?
>> And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
>> our
>> medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
>> registered experimental?
>>
>> OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
>> registered
>> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
>> and
>> registration?
>>
>> I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead
>> to
>> do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
>>
>>
>> Don Gherardini
>> FireFly 098
>> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
> related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
>
> John Kerr
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
> <DONGHE@ONE-ELEVEN.NET>
>
> Gents
>
> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
> category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
> of
> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
> category?
> And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
> our
> medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
> registered experimental?
>
> OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
> registered
> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
> and
> registration?
>
> I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper
> -pushing chore ahead to
> do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
>
>
> Don Gherardini
> FireFly 098
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> w.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Well, ya, the "rest" of the FAA needs to be educated on Sport Pilot...and
some of them don't want to. (Van Nuys FSDO)In fact...some go out of their
way to "submarine the Sport pilot process". I have experienced this
personally. But...the regs are written and the law is the law...check out
part 61.XXX it's all there in black and white. By the way...they hate it
when you know the regs better than they do!
Steve Cooper
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Henderson
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Sport pilot category
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Henderson" <gjglh@cebridge.net>
I don't think the FAA even knows what they want yet. I have a friend who
just finished his model IV last month. The FAA came to check out his plane
for sport pilot certification and told him they did not have the correct
forms yet and he would be back in two weeks. He did tell him that if he
certified as amature built he could not go back to Sport. This did not
mean it couldn't fly as sport.
Gary
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
> related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
>
> John Kerr
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
>>
>> Gents
>>
>> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
>> category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
>> of
>> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
>> category?
>> And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
>> our
>> medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
>> registered experimental?
>>
>> OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
>> registered
>> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
>> and
>> registration?
>>
>> I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead
>> to
>> do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
>>
>>
>> Don Gherardini
>> FireFly 098
>> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
> related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
>
> John Kerr
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
> <DONGHE@ONE-ELEVEN.NET>
>
> Gents
>
> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
> category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
> of
> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
> category?
> And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
> our
> medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
> registered experimental?
>
> OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
> registered
> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
> and
> registration?
>
> I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper
> -pushing chore ahead to
> do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
>
>
> Don Gherardini
> FireFly 098
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> w.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Evans coolant in the 2 Stroke |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Just for information: The below is from Evans concerning using their
product in the Rotax 2 stroke engine. Hmmm, I thought the 912 ran hotter than
the
2 stroke???
Don Smythe
In a message dated 2/14/2005 2:06:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tech@evanscooling.com writes:
Don.........the 2 stroke tends to run hotter due to the power stroke of the
piston, so with that said, I recommend using our NPGR , as this will flow
better due to restriction in the 2 stroke heads. It does have the lubricity
of a light machine oil. I cant really guarantee the motor running any cooler
than it does now. We will be getting more info from Rotax on their 2 stroke
motors, but for now I can only suggest what to do.....Tom
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
Deke,
Thanks very much for the info. Hadn't considered the detonation issue.
Anyway, I'm going to try pitching for just under 6000.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
> Hang onto something. Here they come. :-)
> Actually Bill, 5500 is a bit low, but if you don't need to get off the
> ground in 150' (nothing wrong with 250') and you're getting good plug
> readings, then what ever works best for you IMO. You just don't want to
get
> rpms too low with full power because it can possibly cause detonation and
> with all the noise of the prop you wouldn't hear it. If I were you I'd
fool
> around with jetting and keep the static rpm up a little higher than 5500
to
> take advantage of the horsepower curve.
> Deke
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
> Good one Tom. I have a question though. Using as an example the GSC prop,
> you place the bracket against the back side of the prop, but the back of the
> prop isn't flat. How do you ensure you have the bracket lined up exactly
> the same on each blade? Do you have the bracket airfoiled so that it sets
> flush with the blade?
> Deke
Deke,
The pop rivet heads in the upper right in the picture are thick enough
to act as a shim on the top back of the prop blade. This prevents the
bracket from rocking on the curved blade back. Notice in the top left
in the picture is a piece of aluminum same thickness as the vertical
member and rivets to shim the same thickness here so the laser will
point straight forward. The bottom member is attached at an angle to
match that of the kitfox with tail on the floor so the laser beam is level.
I use a protractor to set the first blade's pitch. Then bring each
blade to horizontal position on the left side of the plane...left hand
prop...using a stick the right length from prop blade to floor to get
each blade in the exact same position. I hold the bracket to the prop
by hand and have my helper mark the first blade's dot location on the
wall. Then adjust the other two to hit that mark with the laser dot. I
can quickly check to see if a blade has slipped and can make small
precise changes in pitch.
Here's the link to the picture again
http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Laser_bracket.jpg
Tom Jones
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
kurt schrader wrote:
> I know there are a few do-it-yourself people on this
> list so I'll offer the following.
Thank you, Kurt and Tom, but my reason for asking is probably different. From
what I understand, your technique is well adapted to the needs of someone who
has a ground variable pitch propeller and wants to measure the pitch in degrees
for each blade.
I have a fixed pitch propeller and the only thing I want to know is how I
convert what I know (my prop is 60 by 38") to what I read (what you, guys,
write as an angle).
BTW, what I wrote previously is wrong. I used again a piece of paper and a
pencil only to find out that I am not that good either with math! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 32
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello Don,
You'll get much more info from people who really know all the details between
the different models. This is only one answer I think I can answer:
Don Gherardini wrote:
> 1:The airfoil is said to be different than on the 3 and newer models. what
> effect did this have?
My understanding is that the model 1, 2 and 3 have all the so-called Avid Flyer
undercambered wing. (I have a model 3). The reason is, I believe, to achieve
the best STOL ability i.e. lower the stall speed, together with the drooping
winglets at the end.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
Don, Michel is correct.
My 515lb model II stalls around 30mph. Take off and landing roll is about
100 feet.
Michel what is your aprox stall speed?
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 2
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello Don,
You'll get much more info from people who really know all the details
between
the different models. This is only one answer I think I can answer:
Don Gherardini wrote:
> 1:The airfoil is said to be different than on the 3 and newer models. what
> effect did this have?
My understanding is that the model 1, 2 and 3 have all the so-called Avid
Flyer
undercambered wing. (I have a model 3). The reason is, I believe, to achieve
the best STOL ability i.e. lower the stall speed, together with the drooping
winglets at the end.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: ordering security |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Call Steve at 1-208 459 6524 He has them for the model 1-3 and is only
a hinge away from model 4
Tc9008@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tc9008@aol.com
>
>How do I get in touch with Airedale? I can't seem to locate any flaperons in
>stock for a model IV?
>Travis
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: RE:K7forsale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Hi gang,
I was in a hurry when I sent the earlier e-mail. I did not notice that
my spell check had changed Riblett into Ruble.
John Larsen wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
>
>I was at the factory when the Series 4 was being produced, and the plane
>did have problems. It was mainly caused by Avid. This came about because
>dan Denny had just come out with the Series 3 KF. I had designed the D
>model Avid and Jimbob Metzger got the inspiration to call it the Avid Mk
>IV just to get one up on KF. When Dan saw it at SnF he immediately saw
>this as competition to his plane. Did you ever notice that there were
>very few Series 3 KF. Dan was working on the Ruble wing and the
>redesigned mixer system with MacFarlane the engineer at this time, so
>Dan introduced the Series 4 just to keep up with Avid. The problem was
>he sold his wine before it's time, and the first run on Series 4 planes
>were full of short comings. There were some kits where 4 different lift
>struts were sent out before they got it right. The back orders and
>reshipments were killing them. That is the reason Phil Reid did a
>redesign on the plane and called it the Series 5 to correct the short
>comings of the Series 4. Dan would have been much better off to not rush
>to production.
>
>Marc Hightower wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Hightower" <skyhightower@earthlink.net>
>>
>> I can't say that I'm a real SkyStar fan. Building my Classic IV-1200 was a
case of making a silk purse from a sows ear. The kit that I received was of very
poor quality. Nothing ever fit properly and my friends would joke about how
every time they would come by my shop I was screaming about what a piece of junk
this or that part was and how much work it took to put things together. I
finally took a welding class at the local college and learned to fabricate parts
myself, because in some cases that was the only way to get parts to fit. So
I share the frustration of the guy waiting for his engine.
>> But, Boycotting or getting a lawyer and suing SkyStar is not the the answer.
Frank seems to be doing his best to clean up the mess left to him. When a set
of the old style wing struts rusted through after hanging on the wall of my
shop for four years, he sent me a new pair of the seaplane struts for free, including
shipping!
>> Before buying the KItfox, I purchased the first kit from a new company called
MoHawk, short for Missouri Hawk. It was a total piece of junk. An IA looked
at it and told me the welds were so bad that it would probably break and he would
never sign it off. In an attempt to clean up some of the worst welds they
took a grinder to them and made it worse by grinding into the tubes. I didn't
receive half of the parts for the kit and the instructions were incomplete. I
returned the kit and demanded my money back. He ended up selling the kit to someone
else and never returned my money. I got an Attorney, sued him and won.
His response was to fold up the company an thumb his nose at me. I not only lost
the price of the kit, but also the cost of an Attorney and years of frustration
while attempting to collect.
>> While building my Kitfox, I wanted to sell it many a time, but here is a light
at the end of the tunnel. After six years and 3300 hours of construction I
discovered that flying a Kitfox is a lot more fun than building it and I'm glad
that I hung in there.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Marc Hightower
>>skyhightower@earthlink.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
Tim, excuse me for joining in here without an invitation, but I'm totally
lost on this one. I searched the archives and couldn't even find the pic
your link does take me to. The pic is nice, if you know what you're seeing,
which I can't seem to get the handle on. Bracket, laser, huh? Is there
text, or an article that might go with the pic to explain some more on the
angle setting procedure, the the make up of the bracket itself..........I
seem to have a limited intellect here and the guessing is best left to the
morning TV shows.
Sid
trying...............
-------------------------------------------------------
> Good one Tom. I have a question though. Using as an example the GSC prop
> you place the bracket against the back side of the prop, but the back of
the
> prop isn't flat. How do you ensure you have the bracket lined up exactly
> the same on each blade? Do you have the bracket airfoiled so that it sets
> flush with the blade?
> Deke
Deke,
The pop rivet heads in the upper right in the picture are thick enough
to act as a shim on the top back of the prop blade. This prevents the
bracket from rocking on the curved blade back. Notice in the top left
in the picture is a piece of aluminum same thickness as the vertical
member and rivets to shim the same thickness here so the laser will
point straight forward. The bottom member is attached at an angle to
match that of the kitfox with tail on the floor so the laser beam is level.
I use a protractor to set the first blade's pitch. Then bring each
blade to horizontal position on the left side of the plane...left hand
prop...using a stick the right length from prop blade to floor to get
each blade in the exact same position. I hold the bracket to the prop
by hand and have my helper mark the first blade's dot location on the
wall. Then adjust the other two to hit that mark with the laser dot. I
can quickly check to see if a blade has slipped and can make small
precise changes in pitch.
Here's the link to the picture again
http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Laser_bracket.jpg
Tom Jones
Message 37
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
"Harris, Robert" wrote:
> Michel what is your aprox stall speed?
Er, hum ... 40 mph! It's high, I know, and I have discussed it on this list
before. I think it may come from the fact that I don't have a static port and
my cockpit might be a bit underpressurized at low speed. The important is that
I know what is the "indicated" stall speed, isn't it?
BTW, Robert, I am not sure I'll ever get the X-Plane version of my Kitfox
finished. The simulator is no longer working on Macintosh OS 9, and I have
problems installing OS X. If I do, one day, I'll let you know. But right now,
flying the real thing is more fun than the simulator! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
there are some benefits of registering the plane experimental, it can be flown
by sport and private pilots and be maintained by the builder with a repairmans
certificate. there don't appear to be any benefits of registering and homebuilt
as "sport". am I missing something?
John Kerr
Classic IV, 715 hours and still enamored with it.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Henderson"
>
> I don't think the FAA even knows what they want yet. I have a friend who
> just finished his model IV last month. The FAA came to check out his plane
> for sport pilot certification and told him they did not have the correct
> forms yet and he would be back in two weeks. He did tell him that if he
> certified as amature built he could not go back to Sport. This did not
> mean it couldn't fly as sport.
>
> Gary
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
> >
> > EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
> > related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
> >
> > John Kerr
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
> >>
> >> Gents
> >>
> >> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
> >> category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
> >> of
> >> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
> >> category?
> >> And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
> >> our
> >> medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
> >> registered experimental?
> >>
> >> OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
> >> registered
> >> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
> >> and
> >> registration?
> >>
> >> I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead
> >> to
> >> do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
> >>
> >>
> >> Don Gherardini
> >> FireFly 098
> >> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> >>
> >> DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
> > related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
> >
> > John Kerr
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
> >
> >
> > Gents
> >
> > Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
> > category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
> > of
> > paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
> > category?
> > And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
> > our
> > medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
> > registered experimental?
> >
> > OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
> > registered
> > bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
> > and
> > registration?
> >
> > I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper
> > -pushing chore ahead to
> > do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
> >
> >
> > Don Gherardini
> > FireFly 098
> > http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > w.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
there are some benefits of registering the plane experimental, it can be flown
by sport and private pilots and be maintained by the builder with a repairmans
certificate. there don't appear to be any benefits of registering and homebuilt
as "sport". am I missing something?
John Kerr
Classic IV, 715 hours and still enamored with it.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Henderson" <GJGLH@CEBRIDGE.NET>
I don't think the FAA even knows what they want yet. I have a friend who
just finished his model IV last month. The FAA came to check out his plane
for sport pilot certification and told him they did not have the correct
forms yet and he would be back in two weeks. He did tell him that if he
certified as amature built he could not go back to Sport. This did not
mean it couldn't fly as sport.
Gary
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
John Kerr
>
; -------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
Gents
Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
of
paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
category?
And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
our
medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
registered experimental?
OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
registered
bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
and
registration?
I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper-pushing chore ahead
to
do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
DO NOT ARCHIVE
EAA has a neat diagram that leads you through the options and requirements
related to Sport Pilot/Light Plane regs.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Gherardini"
<DONGHE@ONE-ELEVEN.NET>
Gents
<B
R> Here is a question.. With the new sport pilot certification...I mean the
category for the aircraft, I wonder if there is anything required by way
of
paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
category?
And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with just letting
our
medical expire and continueing to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
registered experimental?
OR Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a exp
registered
bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number
and
registration?
I have a feeling there would be a pretty good paper
-pushing chore ahead to
do this...anybody been able to figure it out?
>
; Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
DO NOT ARCHIVE
w.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Michael,
We need to get Togier to explain propeller pitch/angle. He seems to be
good at that sort of number crunching. I am guessing the
relationship depends on the shape of the entire prop and would be
extremely difficult to calculate by hand. As you probably know pitch in
inches is the length of the cylinder of air that the propeller moves
from in front to in back of the blades in one revolution. Adjustable
pitch propeller people use degrees because that can be easily measured.
For what it is worth, the GSC propeller adjusting table lists a 57 to 60
inch diameter 2 or 3 blade GSC propeller to be at 38 inches of pitch
when the angle at 75% blade length is 15 degrees. Again I would caution
that there is no way to compare your propeller to these numbers.
Now, if you would like to know the pitch in inches for a certain degree
of pitch at 75% blade length for most any GSC propeller, I can look that
up on my chart.
Tom Jones
Michel Verheughe wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> kurt schrader wrote:
>
>>I know there are a few do-it-yourself people on this
>>list so I'll offer the following.
>
>
> Thank you, Kurt and Tom, but my reason for asking is probably different. From
> what I understand, your technique is well adapted to the needs of someone who
> has a ground variable pitch propeller and wants to measure the pitch in degrees
> for each blade.
> I have a fixed pitch propeller and the only thing I want to know is how I
> convert what I know (my prop is 60 by 38") to what I read (what you, guys,
> write as an angle).
> BTW, what I wrote previously is wrong. I used again a piece of paper and a
> pencil only to find out that I am not that good either with math! :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot category |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
EAA Sport Pilot mag covered this. Exp is best due to maintenance
requirements.
bh
--> there are some benefits of registering the plane experimental, it can be
flown by sport and private pilots and be maintained by the builder with a
repairmans certificate. there don't appear to be any benefits of
registering and homebuilt as "sport". am I missing something?
>
> John Kerr
> Classic IV, 715 hours and still enamored with it.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
> Tim, excuse me for joining in here without an invitation, but I'm totally
> lost on this one. I searched the archives and couldn't even find the pic
> your link does take me to. The pic is nice, if you know what you're seeing,
> which I can't seem to get the handle on. Bracket, laser, huh? Is there
> text, or an article that might go with the pic to explain some more on the
> angle setting procedure, the the make up of the bracket itself..........I
> seem to have a limited intellect here and the guessing is best left to the
> morning TV shows.
> Sid
> trying....
Sid,
My laser bracket picture in on www.sportflight.com in the "upload photos
and files" section in "Other/Misl." go to
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=main and click on
other/misl. then scroll way down to find it. It was posted in Feb.01.
The important point is, you can adjust the pitch of the blades to be all
exactly the same with a laser. You still will need to start with a
protractor to get one blade in the ball park then fine tune for correct
RPMs. You just need to devise a way to attach the laser pointer to the
prop blades and be able to get it in exactly the same location on each
blade and have each blade in the exactly the same location to check the
pitch. As you can see Randy did the same thing and his "Bracket" is
probably easier to visulize.
A handy bit of information is my magic number .0174, which multiplied
times distance from prop to wall in inches equals one degree. Place the
plane with the prop 10 feet (120 inches) from the wall then one degree
of pitch is adjusted in or out by moving the laser dot on the wall 2
inches. 120 X .0174 = 2.088. Using kurts magic number of 57.3 units:
120 inches divided by 57.3 equals 2.094 inches for one degree. Close
enough?
Tom JOnes
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
That answers it. Good tool.
Thanks Tom.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jones" <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
>
>
> > Good one Tom. I have a question though. Using as an example the GSC
prop,
> > you place the bracket against the back side of the prop, but the back of
the
> > prop isn't flat. How do you ensure you have the bracket lined up
exactly
> > the same on each blade? Do you have the bracket airfoiled so that it
sets
> > flush with the blade?
> > Deke
>
> Deke,
> The pop rivet heads in the upper right in the picture are thick enough
> to act as a shim on the top back of the prop blade. This prevents the
> bracket from rocking on the curved blade back. Notice in the top left
> in the picture is a piece of aluminum same thickness as the vertical
> member and rivets to shim the same thickness here so the laser will
> point straight forward. The bottom member is attached at an angle to
> match that of the kitfox with tail on the floor so the laser beam is
level.
>
> I use a protractor to set the first blade's pitch. Then bring each
> blade to horizontal position on the left side of the plane...left hand
> prop...using a stick the right length from prop blade to floor to get
> each blade in the exact same position. I hold the bracket to the prop
> by hand and have my helper mark the first blade's dot location on the
> wall. Then adjust the other two to hit that mark with the laser dot. I
> can quickly check to see if a blade has slipped and can make small
> precise changes in pitch.
>
> Here's the link to the picture again
> http://www.sportflight.com/uploads/Laser_bracket.jpg
> Tom Jones
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
Oops, see my faux pas' on the name.............sorry, TOM. Got it this time
and I always have the wise old sage, Deke, to consult, if the roads are
passable and the insurgents don't try to stop me enroute..........thanks for
kicking it back with the explanation and links...........
Sid
Do Not Archive
---------------------------------
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
> Tim, excuse me for joining in here without an invitation, but I'm totally
> lost on this one. I searched the archives and couldn't even find the pic
> your link does take me to. The pic is nice, if you know what you're
seeing,
> which I can't seem to get the handle on. Bracket, laser, huh? Is there
> text, or an article that might go with the pic to explain some more on the
> angle setting procedure, the the make up of the bracket itself.........I
> seem to have a limited intellect here and the guessing is best left to the
> morning TV shows.
> Sid
> trying....
Sid,
My laser bracket picture in on www.sportflight.com in the "upload photos
and files" section in "Other/Misl." go to
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?actionmain and click on
other/misl. then scroll way down to find it. It was posted in Feb.01.
The important point is, you can adjust the pitch of the blades to be all
exactly the same with a laser. You still will need to start with a
protractor to get one blade in the ball park then fine tune for correct
RPMs. You just need to devise a way to attach the laser pointer to the
prop blades and be able to get it in exactly the same location on each
blade and have each blade in the exactly the same location to check the
pitch. As you can see Randy did the same thing and his "Bracket" is
probably easier to visulize.
A handy bit of information is my magic number .0174, which multiplied
times distance from prop to wall in inches equals one degree. Place the
plane with the prop 10 feet (120 inches) from the wall then one degree
of pitch is adjusted in or out by moving the laser dot on the wall 2
inches. 120 X .0174 2.088. Using kurts magic number of 57.3 units:
120 inches divided by 57.3 equals 2.094 inches for one degree. Close
enough?
Tom JOnes
Message 44
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| Subject: | Pitch/prop-angle/rpm |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
One thing that you can do with those number is convert the pitch and RPM's
to Miles per hour, or nauts per hour or kilomteters per hour. I have
forgotten what Michael's pitch is, but if it is 45" per revolution you can
figure out how far it goes at 2500 rpm and convert that to speed.
Surprisingly, calculating backwards (from speed and RPMs) to arrive at an
"effective pitch" often gives a number very close to the claimed pitch of
the prop.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jones
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: Pitch/prop-angle/rpm
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Michael,
We need to get Togier to explain propeller pitch/angle. He seems to be
good at that sort of number crunching. I am guessing the
relationship depends on the shape of the entire prop and would be
extremely difficult to calculate by hand. As you probably know pitch in
inches is the length of the cylinder of air that the propeller moves
from in front to in back of the blades in one revolution. Adjustable
pitch propeller people use degrees because that can be easily measured.
For what it is worth, the GSC propeller adjusting table lists a 57 to 60
inch diameter 2 or 3 blade GSC propeller to be at 38 inches of pitch
when the angle at 75% blade length is 15 degrees. Again I would caution
that there is no way to compare your propeller to these numbers.
Now, if you would like to know the pitch in inches for a certain degree
of pitch at 75% blade length for most any GSC propeller, I can look that
up on my chart.
Tom Jones
Michel Verheughe wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> kurt schrader wrote:
>
>>I know there are a few do-it-yourself people on this
>>list so I'll offer the following.
>
>
> Thank you, Kurt and Tom, but my reason for asking is probably different.
From
> what I understand, your technique is well adapted to the needs of someone
who
> has a ground variable pitch propeller and wants to measure the pitch in
degrees
> for each blade.
> I have a fixed pitch propeller and the only thing I want to know is how I
> convert what I know (my prop is 60 by 38") to what I read (what you, guys,
> write as an angle).
> BTW, what I wrote previously is wrong. I used again a piece of paper and a
> pencil only to find out that I am not that good either with math! :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 45
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Michel, you've got a simulator that runs on OS 9 or OS X? I didn't
think there was a simulator for a Mac...I quit looking years ago. Tell
me what, where, when, who....please!
Lynn
do not archive
On Monday, February 14, 2005, at 05:12 PM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> "Harris, Robert" wrote:
>> Michel what is your aprox stall speed?
>
> Er, hum ... 40 mph! It's high, I know, and I have discussed it on this
> list
> before. I think it may come from the fact that I don't have a static
> port and
> my cockpit might be a bit underpressurized at low speed. The important
> is that
> I know what is the "indicated" stall speed, isn't it?
>
> BTW, Robert, I am not sure I'll ever get the X-Plane version of my
> Kitfox
> finished. The simulator is no longer working on Macintosh OS 9, and I
> have
> problems installing OS X. If I do, one day, I'll let you know. But
> right now,
> flying the real thing is more fun than the simulator! :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Drag/anti-drag tubes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: DPREMGOOD@aol.com
Jim,
I built my wings on a Classic IV 2 years ago and did not have to shorten the
drag/anti drag tubes at all.
If I recall, there was actually about 1/4" play.
I would suggest that you re-measure the distances between the ribs, on both
front and rear spars.
Regards,
Doug Remoundos
Classic IV
Montreal, Canada
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