Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - SD Rotax Repair (jareds)
2. 06:52 AM - Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) (Jim Carriere)
3. 07:06 AM - Window Tint on Polycabonate (Jimmie Blackwell)
4. 07:17 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: SD Rotax Repair (Bob Robertson)
6. 07:48 AM - Re: SD Rotax Repair (jareds)
7. 07:49 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (Norm Beauchamp)
8. 07:54 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (Jimmie Blackwell)
9. 10:53 AM - handheld nav/com (GONER752@aol.com)
10. 11:07 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (David Savener)
11. 11:54 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (Jimmie Blackwell)
12. 01:33 PM - Re: [off-topic] Terminology (Milt's Kitfox Stuff)
13. 03:39 PM - Re: handheld nav/com (Ronald K. Stevens)
14. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) (Rick)
15. 08:31 PM - engine (Floran Higgins)
16. 08:56 PM - Re: engine (Rick)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Anyone have any idea if there is a authorized repairman for a Rotax 582
in South Dakota or North Dakota.
My weep hole is seeping which means the main water pump shaft seal is
going out. (Every 5 years or 300hrs)
Apparently some special tools are needed anyway and on the grey head
they machine the case for an upgrade to the new cyramic style pump.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
There is one thing in particular I don't like about the manual pitch
trim kit. The brackets that hold the cable at each end are riveted
(plus bonded with structural adhesive) to the fuselage tubes. The
holes for those rivets are a major violation of the corrosion
protection. All of the other places where the powder coating is
removed to bare metal (usually by drilling or reaming) are either on
tabs or brackets that are welded to the tubes, but the fuselage
tubes themselves are not exposed to bare metal.
On my own aircraft I did not drill into the tubes for these
brackets. Instead, I figured out a way to mechanically attach the
brackets using stainless steel hose clamps. I also bonded the
brackets. I still have to figure out a way to guarantee that the
hose clamps will not loosen (ie, safety wire).
Needless to say, I was not impressed with the idea of opening up the
inside of those tubes to the outside world. I suppose the rivets
and epoxy would probably seal them back up again, but I still wasn't
comfortable with it.
Jim in NW FL
Series 7 in progress
Message 3
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| Subject: | Window Tint on Polycabonate |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the turtle
deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if anyone
had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought was to use
a bronze tint.
Jimmie
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jablackwell@ev1.net writes:
The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the
turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if
anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought
was to use a bronze tint.
Jimmie
Jimmie,
I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I think).
There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be used.
That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked at
said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: SD Rotax Repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
Jared,
You might try calling Leading Edge Airfoils or California Power Systems.
They might have a repair station in your area.
If you switch to the new "long life" silicate free (btw these new
antifreezes are also free of phosphates, nitrates and amines) you will no
longer have any problems with your rotary valve cross shaft seals.
Halvoline makes a good antifreeze...you can also go to a Volkswagen dealers
ship and purchase their brand of antifreeze.
Hope this helps
Bob R
----- Original Message -----
From: "jareds" <jareds@verizon.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>
> Anyone have any idea if there is a authorized repairman for a Rotax 582
> in South Dakota or North Dakota.
> My weep hole is seeping which means the main water pump shaft seal is
> going out. (Every 5 years or 300hrs)
> Apparently some special tools are needed anyway and on the grey head
> they machine the case for an upgrade to the new cyramic style pump.
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: SD Rotax Repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Good info Bob!! This goes in the archive!
Bob Robertson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
>
>Jared,
>You might try calling Leading Edge Airfoils or California Power Systems.
>They might have a repair station in your area.
>If you switch to the new "long life" silicate free (btw these new
>antifreezes are also free of phosphates, nitrates and amines) you will no
>longer have any problems with your rotary valve cross shaft seals.
>Halvoline makes a good antifreeze...you can also go to a Volkswagen dealers
>ship and purchase their brand of antifreeze.
>Hope this helps
>Bob R
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jareds" <jareds@verizon.net>
>To: "ax" <kitfox-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20040804.Netscape/7.2>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>>
>>Anyone have any idea if there is a authorized repairman for a Rotax 582
>>in South Dakota or North Dakota.
>>My weep hole is seeping which means the main water pump shaft seal is
>>going out. (Every 5 years or 300hrs)
>>Apparently some special tools are needed anyway and on the grey head
>>they machine the case for an upgrade to the new cyramic style pump.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Norm Beauchamp <nebchmp@wcc.net>
Jimmie,
Norm, from San Angelo. You will no doubt get some more information on
this. The stick on stuff I looked at stated in the fine print not to be
used on polycarb, acrilics, so on and forth. I seem to think some
others have used the stick on stuff anyway.
Looks and sounds like rain today here. Thunder boomers.
Jimmie Blackwell wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
>
>The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the turtle
deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if anyone
had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought was to
use a bronze tint.
>
>
>Jimmie
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Thanks Don.
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jablackwell@ev1.net writes:
>
>
> The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on
the
> turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering
if
> anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My
thought
> was to use a bronze tint.
>
>
> Jimmie
>
>
> Jimmie,
> I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I
think).
> There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be
used.
> That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked
at
> said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that.
>
>
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | handheld nav/com |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: GONER752@aol.com
Hi all,
Ok, I know I asked before about the nav/coms available and their pros and
cons. But I'm ready to buy and I have it down to either the SP-200 from sporty's
or the jhp-520. I understand there are some issues with static. opinion seems
to point toward the jhp-520. Any thoughts, opinions or experience with either
of these radios would be greatly appreciated as it will be my primary comm.
Thanks to all in advance.
Greg G.
n375kl
kfII
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate |
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 13:05:53 -0600
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
Jimmy,
Wal-Mart used to have round smoked plastic discs with a suction cup in the middle.
You just move-em between you and the sun. Cheap, light-weight, no storage
problems. Just make sure you stow them if you decide to fly with the doors
open. I need new ones. Mine blew out over that rock quarry south of Georgetown.
Dave S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
Thanks Don.
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com<mailto:AlbertaIV@aol.com>>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com<mailto:AlbertaIV@aol.com>
>
>
> In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net> writes:
>
>
> The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on
the
> turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering
if
> anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My
thought
> was to use a bronze tint.
>
>
> Jimmie
>
>
> Jimmie,
> I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I
think).
> There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be
used.
> That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked
at
> said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that.
>
>
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
I am gonna go search the rock quarry for your smoked discs and maybe I can
find the sectional I lost on the way to your place when the right door came
open.
Seriously, if I find the discs at Wal-Mart I will pick up a couple of extras
for you. There was a clearing of cloud over here earlier this morning, so I
slipped away when Doris was distracted and did a few times around the
pattern. Tried a couple of wheel landings which worked out pretty good.
Fan the clouds outta Texas so we can go fly.
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
>
> Jimmy,
>
> Wal-Mart used to have round smoked plastic discs with a suction cup in the
middle. You just move-em between you and the sun. Cheap, light-weight, no
storage problems. Just make sure you stow them if you decide to fly with
the doors open. I need new ones. Mine blew out over that rock quarry south
of Georgetown.
>
> Dave S
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 11:54 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
>
> Thanks Don.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com<mailto:AlbertaIV@aol.com>>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
AlbertaIV@aol.com<mailto:AlbertaIV@aol.com>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net> writes:
> >
> >
> > The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking
on
> the
> > turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was
wondering
> if
> > anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My
> thought
> > was to use a bronze tint.
> >
> >
> > Jimmie
> >
> >
> > Jimmie,
> > I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I
> think).
> > There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be
> used.
> > That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I
looked
> at
> > said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that.
> >
> >
> > Don Smythe
> > Classic IV w/ 582
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: [off-topic] Terminology |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Milt's Kitfox Stuff" <flysly@erols.com>
I was trained as a US Air Force navigator. Here's the way we were
taught... The course is what you plotted on a chart during mission
planning. The track is what you make good over the ground when in flight.
The course you charted in planning was corrected for forecast winds, which
yielded an initial heading to fly on each leg of the sortie. While in
route, you would take fixes to determine your location and ascertain the
track flown over the ground, then apply new corrections for winds aloft to
determine a heading that get you back on course.
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Kitfox-List: [off-topic] Terminology
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Hello Guy,
>
>> From: Guy Buchanan [bnn@nethere.com]
>> I believe this is incorrect.
>
> I understand your opinion, Guy, as it is what most people tell me when I
> ask the question. Don also wrote to me privately, saying the same. I will
> then answer both on the list - even if it is somewhat off-topic.
>
> But first: DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional navigator. My interest is
> purely in the history of navigation and etymology. I passed my microlight
> pilot license in Norwegian (korrigert kurs) and my yachtsman license in
> Spanish. My English is international and I think that say, an English
> sailor may use a different vocabulary than a US pilot. So, I may say
> stupid things.
>
> Now, please look at this page of the British Royal Air Force "Air
> Navigation" from 1944, that I scanned at work, today:
> http:home.online.no/~michel/tmp/Course.gif
>
> It says that: "The direction in which an aircraft is heading is called its
> Course."
> then after:
> "The direction of the path of an aircraft over the Earth is called its
> Track."
>
> On the other hand, Don has just sent me a link that is interesting:
> http://www.airways.com/java/coordcalc.html
>
> There, it says:
> "Mag.Heading: Magnetic Heading (in degrees). This is the Magnetic Course
> with a correction for winds "
>
> But, let's first get rid of mag vs. true notations. Sailors use true north
> and Mercator charts, airmen use mag north and Lambert charts.
> If I understand airways.com correctly, they call the "heading" as the
> "course" corrected for winds.
>
> This surely can't be true. I have seen people arguing, like you, that the
> heading corrected for the wind is the course, but never the opposite.
> In my mind, and until proved wrong, the heading (or course) corrected for
> the wind is the track. It looks like the RAF agrees with me. At least, in
> 1944.
> But if you disagree, what is then - for you - the meaning of "track?"
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: handheld nav/com |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald K. Stevens" <rkstevens@verizon.net>
I've got a JHP-520. Though it is not my primary comm, it has always
seemed to work. Mostly I use it to call for gas, etc., while on the
ramp. I never have used the VOR feature yet while airborne, but it's
nice to know that there is another backup in the plane with me.
I have tried plugging it in to my David Clark ENC headsets -- no
problems there -- worked great.
The only real problem I've ever had is the manual. Poorly written --
Actually, written by a native Japanese I imagine -- and then translated
-- poorly it would seem. Anyway, I find the manual exceedingly
difficult to contend with.
The radio however, has been just fine...I just wish the buttons on it
were bigger. They are really small.
Ron
GONER752@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: GONER752@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>Ok, I know I asked before about the nav/coms available and their pros and
>cons. But I'm ready to buy and I have it down to either the SP-200 from sporty's
>or the jhp-520. I understand there are some issues with static. opinion seems
>to point toward the jhp-520. Any thoughts, opinions or experience with either
>of these radios would be greatly appreciated as it will be my primary comm.
>Thanks to all in advance.
>Greg G.
>n375kl
>kfII
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I think I would machine some 6061T6 brackets that clamp to the tube. Then
bolt the control ends to them. When I say machine it can be done by drilling
and a steady hack saw hand. Picture a square bar with a hole end to end then
cut in half length wise.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Carriere
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew)
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
There is one thing in particular I don't like about the manual pitch
trim kit. The brackets that hold the cable at each end are riveted
(plus bonded with structural adhesive) to the fuselage tubes. The
holes for those rivets are a major violation of the corrosion
protection. All of the other places where the powder coating is
removed to bare metal (usually by drilling or reaming) are either on
tabs or brackets that are welded to the tubes, but the fuselage
tubes themselves are not exposed to bare metal.
On my own aircraft I did not drill into the tubes for these
brackets. Instead, I figured out a way to mechanically attach the
brackets using stainless steel hose clamps. I also bonded the
brackets. I still have to figure out a way to guarantee that the
hose clamps will not loosen (ie, safety wire).
Needless to say, I was not impressed with the idea of opening up the
inside of those tubes to the outside world. I suppose the rivets
and epoxy would probably seal them back up again, but I still wasn't
comfortable with it.
Jim in NW FL
Series 7 in progress
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
There is a fellow in a nearby town that is a dealer for Rans airplanes. He has
a Rans S-7 demostrater with a Rotax 912 ULS engine.
There is another fellow from Pocatello, Idaho that has a Rans S-7 with a subaru
engine. He comes to most of the flyins in Mont.
I never flew his plane, but was allways impressed on how quiet it was when he flew
over.
He reciently came to Townsend and spent 1/2 day flying his subaru powered S-7 in
comparison to the S-7 with the Rotex 912 ULS.
He was so impressed with the difference in performance that he went back to Pocatello
and sold his subaru powered model and bought another S-7 kit and is going
to install a Rotex 912 ULS engine in it.
Floran H.
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Did he fly both planes? What was the empty weight of each plane? How was
each plane equipped? Was it a turbo or non turbo Subaru? Why would he sell a
perfectly good airframe when all he might need is a firewall forward
conversion? Was something wrong with the suburban powered aircraft other
than his engine choice that effected his choice? Something doesn't seem
quite right here.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Floran
Higgins
Subject: Kitfox-List: engine
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
There is a fellow in a nearby town that is a dealer for Rans airplanes. He
has a Rans S-7 demostrater with a Rotax 912 ULS engine.
There is another fellow from Pocatello, Idaho that has a Rans S-7 with a
subaru engine. He comes to most of the flyins in Mont.
I never flew his plane, but was allways impressed on how quiet it was when
he flew over.
He reciently came to Townsend and spent 1/2 day flying his subaru powered
S-7 in comparison to the S-7 with the Rotex 912 ULS.
He was so impressed with the difference in performance that he went back to
Pocatello and sold his subaru powered model and bought another S-7 kit and
is going to install a Rotex 912 ULS engine in it.
Floran H.
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