---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 03/05/05: 16 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:38 AM - SD Rotax Repair (jareds) 2. 06:52 AM - Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) (Jim Carriere) 3. 07:06 AM - Window Tint on Polycabonate (Jimmie Blackwell) 4. 07:17 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (AlbertaIV@aol.com) 5. 07:41 AM - Re: SD Rotax Repair (Bob Robertson) 6. 07:48 AM - Re: SD Rotax Repair (jareds) 7. 07:49 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (Norm Beauchamp) 8. 07:54 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (Jimmie Blackwell) 9. 10:53 AM - handheld nav/com (GONER752@aol.com) 10. 11:07 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (David Savener) 11. 11:54 AM - Re: Window Tint on Polycabonate (Jimmie Blackwell) 12. 01:33 PM - Re: [off-topic] Terminology (Milt's Kitfox Stuff) 13. 03:39 PM - Re: handheld nav/com (Ronald K. Stevens) 14. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) (Rick) 15. 08:31 PM - engine (Floran Higgins) 16. 08:56 PM - Re: engine (Rick) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:38:25 AM PST US From: jareds Subject: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds Anyone have any idea if there is a authorized repairman for a Rotax 582 in South Dakota or North Dakota. My weep hole is seeping which means the main water pump shaft seal is going out. (Every 5 years or 300hrs) Apparently some special tools are needed anyway and on the grey head they machine the case for an upgrade to the new cyramic style pump. > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:52:28 AM PST US From: Jim Carriere Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere There is one thing in particular I don't like about the manual pitch trim kit. The brackets that hold the cable at each end are riveted (plus bonded with structural adhesive) to the fuselage tubes. The holes for those rivets are a major violation of the corrosion protection. All of the other places where the powder coating is removed to bare metal (usually by drilling or reaming) are either on tabs or brackets that are welded to the tubes, but the fuselage tubes themselves are not exposed to bare metal. On my own aircraft I did not drill into the tubes for these brackets. Instead, I figured out a way to mechanically attach the brackets using stainless steel hose clamps. I also bonded the brackets. I still have to figure out a way to guarantee that the hose clamps will not loosen (ie, safety wire). Needless to say, I was not impressed with the idea of opening up the inside of those tubes to the outside world. I suppose the rivets and epoxy would probably seal them back up again, but I still wasn't comfortable with it. Jim in NW FL Series 7 in progress ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:06:21 AM PST US From: "Jimmie Blackwell" Subject: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought was to use a bronze tint. Jimmie ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:17:11 AM PST US From: AlbertaIV@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, jablackwell@ev1.net writes: The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought was to use a bronze tint. Jimmie Jimmie, I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I think). There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be used. That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked at said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that. Don Smythe Classic IV w/ 582 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:41:23 AM PST US From: "Bob Robertson" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" Jared, You might try calling Leading Edge Airfoils or California Power Systems. They might have a repair station in your area. If you switch to the new "long life" silicate free (btw these new antifreezes are also free of phosphates, nitrates and amines) you will no longer have any problems with your rotary valve cross shaft seals. Halvoline makes a good antifreeze...you can also go to a Volkswagen dealers ship and purchase their brand of antifreeze. Hope this helps Bob R ----- Original Message ----- From: "jareds" Subject: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds > > Anyone have any idea if there is a authorized repairman for a Rotax 582 > in South Dakota or North Dakota. > My weep hole is seeping which means the main water pump shaft seal is > going out. (Every 5 years or 300hrs) > Apparently some special tools are needed anyway and on the grey head > they machine the case for an upgrade to the new cyramic style pump. > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:48:45 AM PST US From: jareds Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds Good info Bob!! This goes in the archive! Bob Robertson wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" > >Jared, >You might try calling Leading Edge Airfoils or California Power Systems. >They might have a repair station in your area. >If you switch to the new "long life" silicate free (btw these new >antifreezes are also free of phosphates, nitrates and amines) you will no >longer have any problems with your rotary valve cross shaft seals. >Halvoline makes a good antifreeze...you can also go to a Volkswagen dealers >ship and purchase their brand of antifreeze. >Hope this helps >Bob R > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "jareds" >To: "ax" >Subject: Kitfox-List: SD Rotax Repair > > > > >>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds >> >>Anyone have any idea if there is a authorized repairman for a Rotax 582 >>in South Dakota or North Dakota. >>My weep hole is seeping which means the main water pump shaft seal is >>going out. (Every 5 years or 300hrs) >>Apparently some special tools are needed anyway and on the grey head >>they machine the case for an upgrade to the new cyramic style pump. >> >> >> >> >>> >>> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:49:34 AM PST US From: Norm Beauchamp Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Norm Beauchamp Jimmie, Norm, from San Angelo. You will no doubt get some more information on this. The stick on stuff I looked at stated in the fine print not to be used on polycarb, acrilics, so on and forth. I seem to think some others have used the stick on stuff anyway. Looks and sounds like rain today here. Thunder boomers. Jimmie Blackwell wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" > >The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought was to use a bronze tint. > > >Jimmie > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:54:09 AM PST US From: "Jimmie Blackwell" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" Thanks Don. ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com > > > In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, > jablackwell@ev1.net writes: > > > The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the > turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if > anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought > was to use a bronze tint. > > > Jimmie > > > Jimmie, > I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I think). > There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be used. > That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked at > said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that. > > > Don Smythe > Classic IV w/ 582 > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:53:38 AM PST US From: GONER752@aol.com Subject: Kitfox-List: handheld nav/com --> Kitfox-List message posted by: GONER752@aol.com Hi all, Ok, I know I asked before about the nav/coms available and their pros and cons. But I'm ready to buy and I have it down to either the SP-200 from sporty's or the jhp-520. I understand there are some issues with static. opinion seems to point toward the jhp-520. Any thoughts, opinions or experience with either of these radios would be greatly appreciated as it will be my primary comm. Thanks to all in advance. Greg G. n375kl kfII ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:07:12 AM PST US From: "David Savener" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 13:05:53 -0600 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" Jimmy, Wal-Mart used to have round smoked plastic discs with a suction cup in the middle. You just move-em between you and the sun. Cheap, light-weight, no storage problems. Just make sure you stow them if you decide to fly with the doors open. I need new ones. Mine blew out over that rock quarry south of Georgetown. Dave S ----- Original Message ----- From: Jimmie Blackwell To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" > Thanks Don. ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com > > > In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, > jablackwell@ev1.net writes: > > > The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on the > turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering if > anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My thought > was to use a bronze tint. > > > Jimmie > > > Jimmie, > I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I think). > There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be used. > That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked at > said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that. > > > Don Smythe > Classic IV w/ 582 > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:54:52 AM PST US From: "Jimmie Blackwell" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" I am gonna go search the rock quarry for your smoked discs and maybe I can find the sectional I lost on the way to your place when the right door came open. Seriously, if I find the discs at Wal-Mart I will pick up a couple of extras for you. There was a clearing of cloud over here earlier this morning, so I slipped away when Doris was distracted and did a few times around the pattern. Tried a couple of wheel landings which worked out pretty good. Fan the clouds outta Texas so we can go fly. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Savener" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" > > Jimmy, > > Wal-Mart used to have round smoked plastic discs with a suction cup in the middle. You just move-em between you and the sun. Cheap, light-weight, no storage problems. Just make sure you stow them if you decide to fly with the doors open. I need new ones. Mine blew out over that rock quarry south of Georgetown. > > Dave S > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jimmie Blackwell > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 11:54 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" > > > Thanks Don. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > > To: > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Window Tint on Polycabonate > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com > > > > > > In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, > > jablackwell@ev1.net writes: > > > > > > The Texas sun is causing me to look for ways to do some sun blocking on > the > > turtle deck and the overhead part of the windshield. So, was wondering > if > > anyone had tried using automobile window tint on polycarbonate. My > thought > > was to use a bronze tint. > > > > > > Jimmie > > > > > > Jimmie, > > I used a cling type tint from either Advance Auto or Autozone (I > think). > > There used to be a thread going around that only one type should be > used. > > That is a "cling" type without glue I guess. Some of the films I looked > at > > said, "not for plexiglass". The cling type didn't say that. > > > > > > Don Smythe > > Classic IV w/ 582 > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:33:08 PM PST US From: "Milt's Kitfox Stuff" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: [off-topic] Terminology --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Milt's Kitfox Stuff" I was trained as a US Air Force navigator. Here's the way we were taught... The course is what you plotted on a chart during mission planning. The track is what you make good over the ground when in flight. The course you charted in planning was corrected for forecast winds, which yielded an initial heading to fly on each leg of the sortie. While in route, you would take fixes to determine your location and ascertain the track flown over the ground, then apply new corrections for winds aloft to determine a heading that get you back on course. Milt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michel Verheughe" Subject: Kitfox-List: [off-topic] Terminology > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe > > Hello Guy, > >> From: Guy Buchanan [bnn@nethere.com] >> I believe this is incorrect. > > I understand your opinion, Guy, as it is what most people tell me when I > ask the question. Don also wrote to me privately, saying the same. I will > then answer both on the list - even if it is somewhat off-topic. > > But first: DISCLAIMER: I am not a professional navigator. My interest is > purely in the history of navigation and etymology. I passed my microlight > pilot license in Norwegian (korrigert kurs) and my yachtsman license in > Spanish. My English is international and I think that say, an English > sailor may use a different vocabulary than a US pilot. So, I may say > stupid things. > > Now, please look at this page of the British Royal Air Force "Air > Navigation" from 1944, that I scanned at work, today: > http:home.online.no/~michel/tmp/Course.gif > > It says that: "The direction in which an aircraft is heading is called its > Course." > then after: > "The direction of the path of an aircraft over the Earth is called its > Track." > > On the other hand, Don has just sent me a link that is interesting: > http://www.airways.com/java/coordcalc.html > > There, it says: > "Mag.Heading: Magnetic Heading (in degrees). This is the Magnetic Course > with a correction for winds " > > But, let's first get rid of mag vs. true notations. Sailors use true north > and Mercator charts, airmen use mag north and Lambert charts. > If I understand airways.com correctly, they call the "heading" as the > "course" corrected for winds. > > This surely can't be true. I have seen people arguing, like you, that the > heading corrected for the wind is the course, but never the opposite. > In my mind, and until proved wrong, the heading (or course) corrected for > the wind is the track. It looks like the RAF agrees with me. At least, in > 1944. > But if you disagree, what is then - for you - the meaning of "track?" > > Cheers, > Michel > > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 03:39:24 PM PST US From: "Ronald K. Stevens" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: handheld nav/com --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald K. Stevens" I've got a JHP-520. Though it is not my primary comm, it has always seemed to work. Mostly I use it to call for gas, etc., while on the ramp. I never have used the VOR feature yet while airborne, but it's nice to know that there is another backup in the plane with me. I have tried plugging it in to my David Clark ENC headsets -- no problems there -- worked great. The only real problem I've ever had is the manual. Poorly written -- Actually, written by a native Japanese I imagine -- and then translated -- poorly it would seem. Anyway, I find the manual exceedingly difficult to contend with. The radio however, has been just fine...I just wish the buttons on it were bigger. They are really small. Ron GONER752@aol.com wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: GONER752@aol.com > >Hi all, >Ok, I know I asked before about the nav/coms available and their pros and >cons. But I'm ready to buy and I have it down to either the SP-200 from sporty's >or the jhp-520. I understand there are some issues with static. opinion seems >to point toward the jhp-520. Any thoughts, opinions or experience with either >of these radios would be greatly appreciated as it will be my primary comm. >Thanks to all in advance. >Greg G. >n375kl >kfII > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 06:11:15 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" I think I would machine some 6061T6 brackets that clamp to the tube. Then bolt the control ends to them. When I say machine it can be done by drilling and a steady hack saw hand. Picture a square bar with a hole end to end then cut in half length wise. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Carriere Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Manual Pitch Trim (was Jackscrew) --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere There is one thing in particular I don't like about the manual pitch trim kit. The brackets that hold the cable at each end are riveted (plus bonded with structural adhesive) to the fuselage tubes. The holes for those rivets are a major violation of the corrosion protection. All of the other places where the powder coating is removed to bare metal (usually by drilling or reaming) are either on tabs or brackets that are welded to the tubes, but the fuselage tubes themselves are not exposed to bare metal. On my own aircraft I did not drill into the tubes for these brackets. Instead, I figured out a way to mechanically attach the brackets using stainless steel hose clamps. I also bonded the brackets. I still have to figure out a way to guarantee that the hose clamps will not loosen (ie, safety wire). Needless to say, I was not impressed with the idea of opening up the inside of those tubes to the outside world. I suppose the rivets and epoxy would probably seal them back up again, but I still wasn't comfortable with it. Jim in NW FL Series 7 in progress ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:31:04 PM PST US From: "Floran Higgins" Subject: Kitfox-List: engine --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" There is a fellow in a nearby town that is a dealer for Rans airplanes. He has a Rans S-7 demostrater with a Rotax 912 ULS engine. There is another fellow from Pocatello, Idaho that has a Rans S-7 with a subaru engine. He comes to most of the flyins in Mont. I never flew his plane, but was allways impressed on how quiet it was when he flew over. He reciently came to Townsend and spent 1/2 day flying his subaru powered S-7 in comparison to the S-7 with the Rotex 912 ULS. He was so impressed with the difference in performance that he went back to Pocatello and sold his subaru powered model and bought another S-7 kit and is going to install a Rotex 912 ULS engine in it. Floran H. ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:14 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: engine --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" Did he fly both planes? What was the empty weight of each plane? How was each plane equipped? Was it a turbo or non turbo Subaru? Why would he sell a perfectly good airframe when all he might need is a firewall forward conversion? Was something wrong with the suburban powered aircraft other than his engine choice that effected his choice? Something doesn't seem quite right here. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Floran Higgins Subject: Kitfox-List: engine --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" There is a fellow in a nearby town that is a dealer for Rans airplanes. He has a Rans S-7 demostrater with a Rotax 912 ULS engine. There is another fellow from Pocatello, Idaho that has a Rans S-7 with a subaru engine. He comes to most of the flyins in Mont. I never flew his plane, but was allways impressed on how quiet it was when he flew over. He reciently came to Townsend and spent 1/2 day flying his subaru powered S-7 in comparison to the S-7 with the Rotex 912 ULS. He was so impressed with the difference in performance that he went back to Pocatello and sold his subaru powered model and bought another S-7 kit and is going to install a Rotex 912 ULS engine in it. Floran H.