Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:47 AM - (Rick)
2. 08:15 AM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Don Pearsall)
3. 08:21 AM - Re: (Lynn Matteson)
4. 08:49 AM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (RAY Gignac)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: Loose capstrip? (flier)
6. 11:37 AM - Airfoil Coordinates (Napier, Mark)
7. 01:49 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
8. 02:15 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Mike Couillard - TSI)
9. 02:17 PM - Tacho connections (Rex & Jan Shaw)
10. 02:22 PM - Alternator wires for tacho (Rex & Jan Shaw)
11. 02:33 PM - Re: low fuel sensor revisited (Michael Gibbs)
12. 02:40 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Fox5flyer)
13. 02:41 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Fox5flyer)
14. 02:59 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Jerry Liles)
15. 03:05 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Steve Cooper)
16. 03:19 PM - Re: twisted wire or elec connectors (Torgeir Mortensen)
17. 03:51 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Jerry Liles)
18. 04:06 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Mike Couillard - TSI)
19. 05:23 PM - Re: Loose Spar Cap (Steve Cooper)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I was hopeful someone on the list could recommend a fix for a loose cap
strip. I think its called that. It comes off the leading edge spar tube and
wraps under the spar and goes to the rear. This one is loose at the spar
attachment point. I thought I might inject some type of epoxy in this area
and then clamp it. Maybe 5 minute epoxy. I am open for suggestion. Is there
a better stronger epoxy. I will only most likely have one shot at this. I
don't think it is structural but definitely not good.
Thanks
Rick
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Rick,
The only "good" way to fix this is to open up the fabric near your rib so
you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The rib
cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may be
the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
adhesive, and that IS structural.
Just injecting more epoxy in the area may not get the right spot, and given
that the parts may be dirty or covered with Poly-tak, poly-brush, etc, the
glue may not stick anyway.
My vote is to open it up and do some surgery.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Kitfox-List:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I was hopeful someone on the list could recommend a fix for a loose cap
strip. I think its called that. It comes off the leading edge spar tube and
wraps under the spar and goes to the rear. This one is loose at the spar
attachment point. I thought I might inject some type of epoxy in this area
and then clamp it. Maybe 5 minute epoxy. I am open for suggestion. Is there
a better stronger epoxy. I will only most likely have one shot at this. I
don't think it is structural but definitely not good.
Thanks
Rick
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
You'll get more suggestions, but the first thing that comes to my mind
is that most 5 minute epoxies are not as strong as their "longer"
cousins...in other words, use the longer-setting epoxy for lasting
longer and better strength. But It seems to me that you'd want to use
what was originally used,probably structural adhesive.
Lynn
On Thursday, March 10, 2005, at 10:48 AM, Rick wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>
>
> I was hopeful someone on the list could recommend a fix for a loose
> cap
> strip. I think its called that. It comes off the leading edge spar
> tube and
> wraps under the spar and goes to the rear. This one is loose at the
> spar
> attachment point. I thought I might inject some type of epoxy in this
> area
> and then clamp it. Maybe 5 minute epoxy. I am open for suggestion. Is
> there
> a better stronger epoxy. I will only most likely have one shot at
> this. I
> don't think it is structural but definitely not good.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Spar Cap |
Seal-Send-Time: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 11:48:41 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Pearsall<mailto:donpearsall@comcast.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 11:03 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net<mailto:donpearsall@comcast.net>>
Rick,
The only "good" way to fix this is to open up the fabric near your rib so
you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The rib
cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may be
the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
adhesive, and that IS structural.
Just injecting more epoxy in the area may not get the right spot, and given
that the parts may be dirty or covered with Poly-tak, poly-brush, etc, the
glue may not stick anyway.
My vote is to open it up and do some surgery.
Don Pearsall
Rick, the epoxy you asked about would be called Hysol and you can order a small
tube of the stuff. Like Don said, it is structual it's what makes up the wings
strength!
Ray
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net<mailto:turboflyer@comcast.net>>
I was hopeful someone on the list could recommend a fix for a loose cap
strip. I think its called that. It comes off the leading edge spar tube and
wraps under the spar and goes to the rear. This one is loose at the spar
attachment point. I thought I might inject some type of epoxy in this area
and then clamp it. Maybe 5 minute epoxy. I am open for suggestion. Is there
a better stronger epoxy. I will only most likely have one shot at this. I
don't think it is structural but definitely not good.
Thanks
Rick
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Loose capstrip? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
Rick,
The capstrips run on the top and bottom of the ribs
and provide rigidity for the rib and secondly as a
place for the fabric to adhere. The ends of the ribs
are adhered to the spars with structural adhesive.
The ends of the capstrips end up being glued too.
So, do you have a loose rib or just a loose
capstrip? Which one?
If only the end of the capstrip is loose at the spar,
I wouldn't sweat it. If the rib is loose, depends on
where it's at. Need a little more info...
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick"
<turboflyer@comcast.net>
>
>
> I was hopeful someone on the list could recommend a
fix for a loose cap
>strip. I think its called that. It comes off the
leading edge spar tube and
>wraps under the spar and goes to the rear. This one
is loose at the spar
>attachment point. I thought I might inject some type
of epoxy in this area
>and then clamp it. Maybe 5 minute epoxy. I am open
for suggestion. Is there
>a better stronger epoxy. I will only most likely
have one shot at this. I
>don't think it is structural but definitely not good.
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick
>
>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Airfoil Coordinates |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Napier, Mark" <Mark.Napier@sciatl.com>
Does anyone have the coordinates for the airfoil used on the model IV?
Thanks in advance,
Mark Napier
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Spar Cap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The rib
cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may be
the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
adhesive, and that IS structural
I was examining my rib caps once and noticed what looked like a very
tiny brad in the center of the cap and shot into the rib. There is a chance
that not only epoxy but a brad is helping hold the works together. I would
consider installing an inspection cover in the area of the looseness so you can
get inside the wing. You might be able to do the repairs without cutting open
the fabric (except for the inspection cover). Once done, pop in a cover and
nobody would ever be the wiser. If it's the cap come loose from the rib,
you might consider installing a small piece of 90 degree alum angle where the
cap and rib come together. This will give you a lot more epoxy holding
surface. Better yet, use a piece of 90 degree wood with a piece of either side
(would probably stick better than alum).
BTW, I've tried many of the cheaper fast setting epoxies from the
hardware store and non seem to even come close to something like West Epoxy System.
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard - TSI" <mike.couillard@tekstarllc.com>
Is West System comparable or better than the 3M Product? Advantage to
using it vs the other? Thanks
Mike C Series V (just started)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The
rib cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you
feel may be the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to
the spar with adhesive, and that IS structural
I was examining my rib caps once and noticed what looked like a
very
tiny brad in the center of the cap and shot into the rib. There is a
chance
that not only epoxy but a brad is helping hold the works together. I
would consider installing an inspection cover in the area of the
looseness so you can get inside the wing. You might be able to do the
repairs without cutting open the fabric (except for the inspection
cover). Once done, pop in a cover and nobody would ever be the wiser.
If it's the cap come loose from the rib, you might consider installing
a small piece of 90 degree alum angle where the cap and rib come
together. This will give you a lot more epoxy holding
surface. Better yet, use a piece of 90 degree wood with a piece of
either side
(would probably stick better than alum).
BTW, I've tried many of the cheaper fast setting epoxies from the
hardware store and non seem to even come close to something like West
Epoxy System.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Tacho connections |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Since it's AC coming from the alternator, shouldn't matter which of the two
(yel
or yel/blk) you use, should it? Presumably second wire from tach goes to
ground?
What do you think Rex?
Yes the second wire from the tacho goes to ground or earth whichever you
prefer to call it.
The yellow and yellow/black are power output leads from the alternator and
go to the rectifier/regulator. I gues if you are going to get a satisfactory
pulse from one of these leads there is no difference between one or the
other as far as is shown in the books or I can imagine. I suspect both leads
just go to a bridge rectifier.
However I question that these leads are correct to use. Normally as you have
mentioned the grey lead is the correct one. I fail to see why you haven't
got that. True on some versions there was an internal 1K resistor in the
coil assembly that failed and that effectively open circuits the grey lead.
Next they did away with the internal resistor and fitted it externally in
the grey lead. After that it was fitted in the tacho itself.
Now there is two coils to feed the two modules both are white leads one end
and green the other. The white leads are earthed. One coil is tapped with
the grey lead for the tacho. I don't know but if you have no grey lead for
some mysterious reason then maybe you could use one of the green leads
however there will be a higher voltage pulse on this than the grey lead so I
would be starting testing with a higher value resistor in the line to the
tacho like perhaps 10K and working down from that if needed.. I think this
makes more sense than trying to get a pulse from the yellow or yellow/black
alternator wires.
Assuming you take the tacho pulse from one of the green leads through some
value resistor that works OK I would stress to then very carefully check
your ignitions on both circuits in case taking your tacho pulse in this way
is having some adverse effect. I can't say more except maybe a pulse taken
off the charging coil might indeed work but it does not seem the best way to
me speaking as an electronics tech.
OK I hope this helps you out. I am off in a minute for a few days flying and
camping. Goodluck.
Rex Shaw
Australia.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Alternator wires for tacho |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Since it's AC coming from the alternator, shouldn't matter which of the two
(yel
or yel/blk) you use, should it? Presumably second wire from tach goes to
ground?
What do you think Rex?
In this case I would say they are suggesting instead of one tacho wire going
to ground one goes to either yellow or yellow/black and the other tacho lead
to the other alternator wire.
Rex Shaw.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: low fuel sensor revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Lynn sed:
>The float switch is capable of handling .5 amps @ 12VDC, so this
>should be more than adequate for a bright "get-your-attention" lamp,
>don't you think?
I used an amber ultra-bright LED from Radio Shack for my low-fuel
annunciator and it was bright enough to be seen in full sunlight, no
problem.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Spar Cap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Sometimes you amaze me Don. Good post!
Deke
>
> I was examining my rib caps once and noticed what looked like a very
> tiny brad in the center of the cap and shot into the rib. There is a
chance
> that not only epoxy but a brad is helping hold the works together. I
would
> consider installing an inspection cover in the area of the looseness so
you can
> get inside the wing. You might be able to do the repairs without cutting
open
> the fabric (except for the inspection cover). Once done, pop in a cover
and
> nobody would ever be the wiser. If it's the cap come loose from the rib,
> you might consider installing a small piece of 90 degree alum angle where
the
> cap and rib come together. This will give you a lot more epoxy holding
> surface. Better yet, use a piece of 90 degree wood with a piece of
either side
> (would probably stick better than alum).
> BTW, I've tried many of the cheaper fast setting epoxies from the
> hardware store and non seem to even come close to something like West
Epoxy System.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Spar Cap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
They're both good, but I think the biggest advantage to the West Systems is
that it's mixed 50/50. Much easier.
Deke
> Is West System comparable or better than the 3M Product? Advantage to
> using it vs the other? Thanks
>
> Mike C Series V (just started)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> AlbertaIV@aol.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
>
> you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The
> rib cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you
> feel may be the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to
> the spar with adhesive, and that IS structural
>
>
> I was examining my rib caps once and noticed what looked like a
> very
> tiny brad in the center of the cap and shot into the rib. There is a
> chance
> that not only epoxy but a brad is helping hold the works together. I
> would consider installing an inspection cover in the area of the
> looseness so you can get inside the wing. You might be able to do the
> repairs without cutting open the fabric (except for the inspection
> cover). Once done, pop in a cover and nobody would ever be the wiser.
> If it's the cap come loose from the rib, you might consider installing
> a small piece of 90 degree alum angle where the cap and rib come
> together. This will give you a lot more epoxy holding
> surface. Better yet, use a piece of 90 degree wood with a piece of
> either side
> (would probably stick better than alum).
> BTW, I've tried many of the cheaper fast setting epoxies from the
> hardware store and non seem to even come close to something like West
> Epoxy System.
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Spar Cap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
If you are out of kit supplied structural adhesive JB Weld is a usable
substitute and small kits are available at most hardware stores.
Jerry Liles
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
>
>you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The rib
>cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may be
>the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
>adhesive, and that IS structural
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Jerry, is JB Weld the same product as Hysol?
Steve Cooper
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Liles
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
If you are out of kit supplied structural adhesive JB Weld is a usable
substitute and small kits are available at most hardware stores.
Jerry Liles
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
>
>you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The rib
>cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may
be
>the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
>adhesive, and that IS structural
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: twisted wire or elec connectors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
See below.
On Wed, 09 Mar 2005 18:26:04 -0800, jareds <jareds@verizon.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>
> Don't recall this discussion on the board but sure someone pondered it.
> Had to take engine out and some of the electrical connectors were
> squashed on the ends of the ignition wires but barely hangin on. Is
> twisting better with some liquid tape??
>
Hi Jared,
Well, if this is for an "emergency" repair, twisting would be ok., but use
"heat shrink" with glue. For a more permanent setup, I would use some kind
of connector. The Mil. type can be found in any rating and size, but they
are much to heavy - much to expensive etc.. Twisting would also be OK. as
a permanent solution, however, every time the engine go out - your wire
length decrease :( .
I would use the AMP Mate-N-Lock, the UL94V-XX. XX would be your
selection of number of pins, female or male. etc. The pins are rated up
to 15 Amps, (handle AWG 22 - AWG 14).
Those connectors is light weight and is priced right!! They are open,
water can go in, so- use uphill "method" and a large heat shrink tube,
this time without heat treatment just some straps and you'll be fine.
You'll need some tool for crimping those pins, and the original are
expensive. However, I know that some chapters around have tools members
can borrow.
Here you'll find some crimping tools, as the B-Crimp "Medium" wire Open
Barrel.
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?9X358218#BCT-
Here is a little more info about the type of connector, they look very
like the UL94V - but are not. The kind shown in Bob N's web site is 0.093
pins and can hold 11 Amps.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Hope this help.
Torgeir.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Spar Cap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
I don't know exactly what resin is used by JB Weld but in color,
viscosity, and texture it appears similar to other industrial epoxies.
It certainly has excellent strength and adhesive qualities. I've used
it before and made coupons for testing. With wood the bond always
exceeded the wood strength and bonds to properly prepared metal were
always very strong. I've copied some of the information from the JB
Weld site and included it.
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500 F
Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for
safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated
environments up to 500 F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water,
gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy,
and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!
Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other engine
components which normally operate at temperatures above 500 F.
How to use it:
Use J-B WELD as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and
electrical insulator. Squeeze out equal portions from the black and red
tubes. Mix thoroughly. Clean surface to be bonded. Apply J-B WELD, and
let it cure. That's all there is to it!
Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined,
filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after
mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's
water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock,
vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands
temperatures up to 500 F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe
to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water. (print
instruction sheet) <http://jbweld.net/products/instruct_jbweld.html>
Uses <http://jbweld.net/products/uses.php#jbweld>
What does it bond to?
Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass,
bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete,
fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous
material.
Steve Cooper wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
>
>Jerry, is JB Weld the same product as Hysol?
>
>Steve Cooper
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Liles
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
>
>If you are out of kit supplied structural adhesive JB Weld is a usable
>substitute and small kits are available at most hardware stores.
>
>Jerry Liles
>
>AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
>>
>>you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The rib
>>cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may
>>
>>
>be
>
>
>>the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
>>adhesive, and that IS structural
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------
>Scanned by Bayou Internet for all known viruses.
>http://www.bayou.com
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard - TSI" <mike.couillard@tekstarllc.com>
Thanks--good info!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
--> <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
They're both good, but I think the biggest advantage to the West Systems
is that it's mixed 50/50. Much easier.
Deke
> Is West System comparable or better than the 3M Product? Advantage to
> using it vs the other? Thanks
>
> Mike C Series V (just started)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> AlbertaIV@aol.com
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
>
> you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive.
> The rib cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness
> you feel may be the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib
> attaches to the spar with adhesive, and that IS structural
>
>
> I was examining my rib caps once and noticed what looked like a
> very
> tiny brad in the center of the cap and shot into the rib. There is a
> chance
> that not only epoxy but a brad is helping hold the works together. I
> would consider installing an inspection cover in the area of the
> looseness so you can get inside the wing. You might be able to do
> the repairs without cutting open the fabric (except for the inspection
> cover). Once done, pop in a cover and nobody would ever be the
wiser.
> If it's the cap come loose from the rib, you might consider
> installing a small piece of 90 degree alum angle where the cap and rib
> come together. This will give you a lot more epoxy holding
> surface. Better yet, use a piece of 90 degree wood with a piece of
> either side
> (would probably stick better than alum).
> BTW, I've tried many of the cheaper fast setting epoxies from the
> hardware store and non seem to even come close to something like West
> Epoxy System.
>
>
Message 19
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| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the great ref.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Liles
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
I don't know exactly what resin is used by JB Weld but in color,
viscosity, and texture it appears similar to other industrial epoxies.
It certainly has excellent strength and adhesive qualities. I've used
it before and made coupons for testing. With wood the bond always
exceeded the wood strength and bonds to properly prepared metal were
always very strong. I've copied some of the information from the JB
Weld site and included it.
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500 F
Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for
safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated
environments up to 500 F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water,
gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy,
and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!
Not recommended for use on manifolds, exhaust systems, and other engine
components which normally operate at temperatures above 500 F.
How to use it:
Use J-B WELD as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and
electrical insulator. Squeeze out equal portions from the black and red
tubes. Mix thoroughly. Clean surface to be bonded. Apply J-B WELD, and
let it cure. That's all there is to it!
Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined,
filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after
mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's
water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock,
vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands
temperatures up to 500 F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe
to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water. (print
instruction sheet) <http://jbweld.net/products/instruct_jbweld.html>
Uses <http://jbweld.net/products/uses.php#jbweld>
What does it bond to?
Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass,
bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete,
fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous
material.
Steve Cooper wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
>
>Jerry, is JB Weld the same product as Hysol?
>
>Steve Cooper
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Liles
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Loose Spar Cap
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
>
>If you are out of kit supplied structural adhesive JB Weld is a usable
>substitute and small kits are available at most hardware stores.
>
>Jerry Liles
>
>AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 3/10/2005 3:34:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
>>
>>you can clean the parts and re-glue with more structural adhesive. The
rib
>>cap only touches the spar at a small area, so the looseness you feel may
>>
>>
>be
>
>
>>the rib and cap separating. Of course the rib attaches to the spar with
>>adhesive, and that IS structural
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>-----------------------------------------------
>Scanned by Bayou Internet for all known viruses.
>http://www.bayou.com
>
>
>
>
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