Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - Re:DekesterProgress (Cliff Olson)
2. 05:25 AM - Re: Metal plaque (Dee Young)
3. 05:47 AM - Re: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale (Rlv1950@aol.com)
4. 06:17 AM - Re: Metal plaque (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
5. 06:41 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
6. 06:52 AM - [off-topic] My Girls WAS Aluminum cowl (Michel Verheughe)
7. 07:37 AM - Today's flight (Michel Verheughe)
8. 07:48 AM - Re: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale (John Larsen)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Michael Gibbs)
10. 08:32 AM - Re: Metal plaque (Michael Gibbs)
11. 08:58 AM - Re: Today's flight (Herbert R Gottelt)
12. 09:22 AM - Re: Today's flight (Michel Verheughe)
13. 09:27 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Donna and Roger McConnell)
14. 10:00 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick)
15. 10:33 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Ted Palamarek)
16. 11:58 AM - Re: Metal plaque (roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick))
17. 12:37 PM - Re: Metal plaque (Chenoweth)
18. 01:15 PM - Flap/Trim assist kit (Clifford Begnaud)
19. 01:55 PM - Linkage (Jeffrey Puls)
20. 01:57 PM - Landing Light (Jeffrey Puls)
21. 02:59 PM - Fuel Caps (Rex & Jan Shaw)
22. 03:02 PM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Joel Mapes)
23. 03:04 PM - Nameplate (Rex & Jan Shaw)
24. 03:11 PM - Re: Mounting Ring (Joel Mapes)
25. 04:36 PM - Re: Nameplate (Ray Kurian)
26. 05:01 PM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Lynn Matteson)
27. 05:25 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (paul wilson)
28. 05:34 PM - Re: Nameplate (hausding, sid)
29. 08:11 PM - Fuel Stain Removal (Allan Aaron)
30. 08:33 PM - Re: Landing Light (Andy)
31. 09:28 PM - Re: Mounting Ring (Leach Family)
32. 09:47 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:DekesterProgress |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cliff Olson" <colsonj@provide.net>
I have an open Kitfox trailer that anyone is welcome to use.It works great on the
models I through IV,I did haul a Model 7 it worked fine but the engine was
about four feet out past the end of the trailer.Its a one man setup.I'm about
30 miles north of Toledo Oh.Darryl if you need a trailer today call me,and I'll
bring it to ya.Cliff colsonj@provide.net don't archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Metal plaque |
Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 06:24:46 -0700
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Harry, go to Skystar web site at http://www.skystar.com/Categorized_Options_Catalog_Page.htm<http://www.skystar.com/Categorized_Options_Catalog_Page.htm> and you will find what you need.
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel
plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the
model and engine.
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rlv1950@aol.com
Sorry to say....too many projects and the kitfox must go. Damaged 2 years
ago in a nasty ground loop that twisted the fuselage, collapsed the gear,
crushed the radiator and took out 1 wing tip.
I'd like to offer the following assemblies/parts to a list member at a great
price before I post on E-Bay..
1993 rotax 912 engine with about 400 hours.... $3000.00
2002 replacement fuselage kit, gear,tires,instrument panel with VAL radio,
all mounted ready for covering.....$4000.00
Original wings with new tips ready for install... $500.00
Custom built open trailer....$500.00
OR....Buy all for $7000.00
Large parts still needed to complete project are,all fiberglass nose
cowling,radiator,engine mount, exhaust system,battery and tail wheel
spring,inspection and certification.
All parts and assemblies are located in my hangar at the DeLand airport in
Florida. Any purchases must be picked up there. All will be sold as is and
seen with no warranty or guaranty expressed or implied and sold on a first come
first served basis.
If interested, please contact me off list at _rlv1950@aol.com_
(mailto:rlv1950@aol.com) and I will get back with you as soon as I can. I also have some
pictures I can e-mail.
Thanks,
Ron LeVee
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Metal plaque |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/20/2005 2:32:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
harry@jts.co.uk writes:
Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft
Spruce to no avail.
Thanks
Harry Tucker
Harry,
I have an older copy of Spruce and what your looking for is at the end
of the "Decals" section. Called "NAMEPLATE" P/N 09-33200 ($3.50)
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Changing out stock fuel fills |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to
refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it
all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me
concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented
Rick,
I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was
easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside
the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted
fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory). The
existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will
require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal
outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and see
what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping to
get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for
popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to get
the
new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up some
epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up
the slot and outside fairing.
I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the
cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from
coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out past
that check valve when sitting in the hot sun.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 6
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| Subject: | [off-topic] My Girls WAS Aluminum cowl |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Ron Schick wrote:
> Michel I to have many girls. I plan on nose art that says "THE OTHER
> GIRL". Always out in the garage, always thinking about her, and spending
> all my money on her.
Yes but isn't bigamy fun, Ron? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello guys,
Went flying today, to Notodden ENNO. Nice weather, no wind, high clouds. Here
are some picture:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LaugenDalen.jpg
Ok, at that altitude, I had a bit of headwind. My indicated speed is 92 MPH but
I reckon it was more 90 MPH, due to the static port. The RPM is 2600. If I try
3000 at level (that's what I can get now, maybe 3200 when the engine is run-in)
I go over 100 MPH, which is my red line. Hum, powerful engine that Jabiru!
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LakeSkiing.jpg
Look at this! Norwegians like to ski on the frozen lakes. Some are no good at
finding their way and go in rounds. But look at this guy's track! I wonder what
he is on! :-)
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/RightBase.jpg
Right hand base for ENNO Notodden rwy 30. The runway borders the lake. Don't
land too short!
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/ENNO.jpg
Tango (my Kitfox a.k.a. wife #2) at Notodden ENNO. Not much traffic on this
Sunday morning.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Hello
I notice that you said no guarantees, however I need the engine.
Consider it sold. Give me a call at 208 495 2834 regarding payment.
Thanks
John
Rlv1950@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rlv1950@aol.com
>
>Sorry to say....too many projects and the kitfox must go. Damaged 2 years
>ago in a nasty ground loop that twisted the fuselage, collapsed the gear,
>crushed the radiator and took out 1 wing tip.
>I'd like to offer the following assemblies/parts to a list member at a great
>price before I post on E-Bay..
>1993 rotax 912 engine with about 400 hours.... $3000.00
>2002 replacement fuselage kit, gear,tires,instrument panel with VAL radio,
>all mounted ready for covering.....$4000.00
>Original wings with new tips ready for install... $500.00
>Custom built open trailer....$500.00
>OR....Buy all for $7000.00
>Large parts still needed to complete project are,all fiberglass nose
>cowling,radiator,engine mount, exhaust system,battery and tail wheel
>spring,inspection and certification.
>All parts and assemblies are located in my hangar at the DeLand airport in
>Florida. Any purchases must be picked up there. All will be sold as is and
>seen with no warranty or guaranty expressed or implied and sold on a first come
>first served basis.
>If interested, please contact me off list at _rlv1950@aol.com_
>(mailto:rlv1950@aol.com) and I will get back with you as soon as I can. I also have some
>pictures I can e-mail.
>Thanks,
>Ron LeVee
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Ring |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Roger sez:
>...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one
>side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to
>have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to
>work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem?
I had the same problem on my Model IV, Roger. I would not try to
bend the water pump outlet pipes. What we did was use a heat gun to
soften the sealer used to hold the outlet pipes in place--you can
eventually pop them loose. Reposition them to angles that will clear
the motor mount and then reseal them using the sealer specified in
the Rotax service manual (I don't remember what it is offhand).
You may find that you need different hose to reach the cylinder heads
afterwards, depending upon how much you changed the angle of the
outlet pipes.
Good luck,
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Metal plaque |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Harry sez:
>Does anyone know where to get [an aircraft data plate] as I have
>looked at Aircraft Spruce to no avail.
Mine was supplied with the kit when I purchased it, so I'm sure
SkyStar can supply you with one. Spruce does have one as well:
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/acid.php>
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Today's flight |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt <gofalke@sbcglobal.net>
Hello, Michael,
very nice pictures, very nice Kitfox!
But when you are on right base, should'nt you see the airport? Or is it an extended
r/b with the runway several miles away close to the right upper corner?
Herb Gottelt,4-1200,
Mt. Prospect, IL
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
Hello guys,
Went flying today, to Notodden ENNO. Nice weather, no wind, high clouds. Here
are some picture:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LaugenDalen.jpg
Ok, at that altitude, I had a bit of headwind. My indicated speed is 92 MPH but
I reckon it was more 90 MPH, due to the static port. The RPM is 2600. If I try
3000 at level (that's what I can get now, maybe 3200 when the engine is run-in)
I go over 100 MPH, which is my red line. Hum, powerful engine that Jabiru!
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LakeSkiing.jpg
Look at this! Norwegians like to ski on the frozen lakes. Some are no good at
finding their way and go in rounds. But look at this guy's track! I wonder what
he is on! :-)
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/RightBase.jpg
Right hand base for ENNO Notodden rwy 30. The runway borders the lake. Don't
land too short!
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/ENNO.jpg
Tango (my Kitfox a.k.a. wife #2) at Notodden ENNO. Not much traffic on this
Sunday morning.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Today's flight |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Herbert R Gottelt wrote:
> But when you are on right base, should'nt you see the airport? Or is it an extended
> r/b with the runway several miles away close to the right upper corner?
You are right, Herb, it is the runway you see in the right upper corner and ...
it isn't really a right base. Notodden tower is unmanned on week-ends and as I
came in from the north east, I transmitted my position to an eventual traffic
in the pattern. But there was none. Since there was no wind either on the
ground, I took the shortest way, runway 30. I kept the heading from the moment
of the photo, until I was over the lake, then reported final. In fact, traffic
pattern on the north east of the runway is forbidden because it is over the
town. So, right base three zero is ... forbidden! :-) The only thing to care
for, at Notodden, is the road crossing the runway. Years ago, the airport was
used by commercial planes and was long enough for that. Today, it is a center
for gliders and also GA mechanic. They displaced the threshold half way down
the runway to let a road cross it. I don't know why they still keep the other
half, though, no "biggies" will ever fly here. But one has to be careful when
using runway 12 and read the approach plate before going visual.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Thank you Michael, I will try that. I agree bending is probable not a good
choice.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Gibbs
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Roger sez:
>...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one
>side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to
>have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to
>work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem?
I had the same problem on my Model IV, Roger. I would not try to
bend the water pump outlet pipes. What we did was use a heat gun to
soften the sealer used to hold the outlet pipes in place--you can
eventually pop them loose. Reposition them to angles that will clear
the motor mount and then reseal them using the sealer specified in
the Rotax service manual (I don't remember what it is offhand).
You may find that you need different hose to reach the cylinder heads
afterwards, depending upon how much you changed the angle of the
outlet pipes.
Good luck,
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 14
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| Subject: | Changing out stock fuel fills |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Thanks Don,
Yep its going to be fun, but cant have that rusted metal up there. Did you
see the model A512 on page 165. It has a nice 3 inch entry so seeing into
the tank when filling wont be such a pain. I could just make similar vent
tubes like Sky star caps and use one of the mount holes. You know maybe
thread one end of some small thick wall stainless and bend per old cap.
There must be a good reason for the design being so tall and forward don't
you think. I am not real keen on that vent check valve idea either.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to
refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it
all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me
concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented
Rick,
I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was
easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside
the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing
rusted
fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory).
The
existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will
require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal
outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and
see
what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping
to
get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for
popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to
get the
new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up
some
epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up
the slot and outside fairing.
I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at
the
cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from
coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out
past
that check valve when sitting in the hot sun.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
Roger and John
I bought three special fitting from Skystar that prevent the
problem you are talking about. You have to remove the
existing fittings with some heat to release the locktite and
install the Skystar fittings. This avoids the problem. My
engine was bought locally from the Rotax dealer in Canada.
Ted Palamarek
Edmonton, Ab
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King
<kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Roger,
Did you get your 912 from SkyStar or somewhere else? One of
the mods SkyStar performs on the 912 for the Kitfox
installation is to rotate the water pump. I never knew why,
but this may be the reason. I put a 912UL in my Model IV
and a 912S in my Series 6 and never had that problem. Both
of my engines were purchased from SkyStar. I would not
attempt to bend the aluminum ports on the water pump cover.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Donna and Roger McConnell wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger
McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
>
>I need some advice from members that have installed the
Rotax 912s on there
>Model 5, 6 or 7. Currently I am installing the Mount Ring
on the back of a
>912s and before I could get the mount on I had to remove
the water pump
>cover because the four aluminum tubes running to it were in
the way. After I
>got the Ring Mount on and was reinstalling the water pump
cover the two
>tubes on the left side of the cover were in the way of the
supports on the
>Ring Mount. These aluminum tubes have rubber hoses attached
to them coming
>from each cylinder head. My question is can these tubes be
bent slightly to
>one side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something
is going to have
>to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to
work. Has anyone
>on the List run into this kind of problem?
>
> Roger Mac
>
> S7/912s
>
>
===========
Contributions
other
===========
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
http://www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list
http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
===========
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Metal plaque |
2005 09:31:54 -0700
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick)
Cps Airwolf has them Ron
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Metal plaque |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
I got mine from Skystar. When you have it "engraved" do it at a trophy shop
not a jeweler's. In my case the price difference was over 30 dollars.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
>
> Hi
>
>
> When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel
> plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the
> model and engine.
>
> Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft
> Spruce to no avail.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Harry Tucker
>
> PO Box 2830, White River 1240 South Africa
>
> Tel ++ 27 13 751 5018 Fax ++ 27 33 13 751 1042
>
> Email harry@htucker.com <mailto:harry@htucker.com>
>
>
> DISCLAIMER
> Internet communications are not secure and therefore Jt's Europe Ltd
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> If you are not the intended recipient please notify the sender immediately
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>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Flap/Trim assist kit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
I recently purchased and installed the flap/trim assist kit developed and
sold by John McBean of Sport Plane LLC.
This kit is very nicely done, easy to install and works amazingly well.
The kit includes a spring that interconnects the elevator and flap
mechanisms plus some specialized hardware needed to install it.
This kit puts some "up elevator" pressure at all times and when you drop the
flaps it increases the "up elevator" pressure. The primary purpose of the
kit is to relieve the normal "back stick" pressure that the pilot has to
hold when flying slow with little or no power, especially when lightly
loaded.
Our plane is a model 5 with Lycoming 0-235. My wife always complained about
the amount of back stick pressure she had to hold when approaching to land,
now with this kit we can trim out all the back pressure with half flaps.
When solo, I can almost trim out all the back pressure with full flaps. With
two on board or with some cargo in the cargo sack, all the pressure can be
trimmed out with full flaps.
In flight you can't tell that the kit is there, normal flight is completely
unaffected by it.
I also noticed a couple of other benefits to the kit, one is that when
getting into the plane the stick is now back against the seat, so I don't
have to move it or hold it there while boarding. Second, I now find that
it's much easier to hold the stick back while taxiing.
I highly recommend this kit to anyone with a model 5/6/7 kitfox. The kit
weighs less than 8 oz and installs in about 10 minutes.
You can find it at this web site: http://www.sportplanellc.com/
Cliff
Erie, Co
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
What are you guys using to lube the linkages on your chokes and carburators? Jeff
Classic IV 912UL
Jeffrey Puls
pulsair@mindspring.com
Message 20
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
John "Z"
I'm installing a landing light so I can do some night flying this summer. When
wiring, what do you think of piggy backing off the nav. light circuit/swicth.
Should I make a separate switch? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV
Jeffrey Puls
pulsair@mindspring.com
Message 21
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
My thought was that the top of the wing is a low pressure area and it
might not let enough air in to allow fuel to drain. Page 164 of their
catalog "twist to lock flush fuel caps. What do you folks think?
Rick,
I was losing fuel across the wing in flight due to the low pressure
area on top of the wing. I made new gaskets and problem fixed but all that
suggests to me you might be right and need those little forward facing vents
sticking up to ensure proper fuel flow.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <foxfloatflyer@hotmail.com>
Lynn,
Those are bright, shiny flaperons! The previous owner of this kit had it in
Florida for over 10 years, so I guess the heat has thouroughly baked on the
film. I noticed in the picture you posted that much of the film laying on
the floor is in small chunks. It looks like I have my work cut out for me.
I think I'll wait for some dry weather and do it outside. Even with an
exhaust fan the garage now reeks of turpentine.
Joel
Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel
plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the
model and engine.
Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft
Spruce to no avail.
Harry,
I got one from Aircraft spruce in November last year. The P/N on
the invoice is 09-33200 and the cost was $4.66
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Ring |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <foxfloatflyer@hotmail.com>
I ran into the same issue. Rotax makes water pump elbows in different
angles. Part # 922 232, bent socket 45 degrees and part# 922 230, bent
socket 80 degrees. The sockets can be removed from the water pump housing by
heating the socket with a propane torch to loosen the thread sealent. You
need to remove the water pump housing from the engine first. Determine the
angle and position you will need and order the correct socket(s) from
Lockwood or CPS.
Joel
Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ray Kurian" <raykurian@earthlink.net>
Harry,
http://www.airpartsinc.com
has them.
Ray Kurian
KitFox Model 1 kit for sale.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Nameplate
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
>
> When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel
> plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the
> model and engine.
>
> Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft
> Spruce to no avail.
>
> Harry,
> I got one from Aircraft spruce in November last year. The P/N on
> the invoice is 09-33200 and the cost was $4.66
>
> Rex.
> rexjan@bigpond.com
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Joel-
Yeah, it's a shame to think I'll have to paint them! And you are right,
there was a lot of skinny, maybe 1/4" wide "slivers" of film that came
off. but also a lot of large sheets...like peeling sunburn. I recall
that I used a plastic squeegee to get some of it off....the kind that
you apply Bondo with.
You mentioned the smell of turpentine....is that what you're using? I
used "paint thinner"....also called mineral spirits. I'm not sure how
this differs from turpentine, but if you're still having problems, give
mineral spirits a shot. Just be cautious about getting it into the
hinge slots. The brand I had was Sunnyside, sold at most hardware
stores and Menard's around here in Michigan. My kit came from Texas, so
the same heated environment.
Lynn
On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 06:01 PM, Joel Mapes wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes"
> <foxfloatflyer@hotmail.com>
>
> Lynn,
>
> Those are bright, shiny flaperons! The previous owner of this kit had
> it in
> Florida for over 10 years, so I guess the heat has thouroughly baked
> on the
> film. I noticed in the picture you posted that much of the film laying
> on
> the floor is in small chunks. It looks like I have my work cut out
> for me.
> I think I'll wait for some dry weather and do it outside. Even with an
> exhaust fan the garage now reeks of turpentine.
>
> Joel
> Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs
>
> Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> Download,
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Changing out stock fuel fills |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson <pwilson@climber.org>
Hi Rick,
Dons method works when one has access.
My method:
I just cut a hole the size of the new part. Hole saw, dremel and shop vac
to catch the filings. All the exposed metal will be removed as rest of it
is buried in the fiberglass. Recess the tank top to match the flange of the
new part. Chamfer the holes in the new part so the epoxy will flow from the
bottom to the top an lock the flange in place. No reason why one couldn't
bolt the new part flange to the tanks and bed it in epoxy for a better
attachment. Your choice. I located the vent near the hole so I could attach
it with safety wire thru the hole from the top. This vent runs horizontally
out the side under the tank flange, then down below the fabric. I think
this could be done with a covered wing but it would be a pain to get a good
seal at the penetration. A small patch would be required for access. Don't
forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. I just used the
vent line and made sure it had contact with the flange if the new part.
The new filler I used provides a total seal like most planes at the
airport. Meaning there is no check valve just a viton oring.. Thus there is
a need for a vent line.
Contact me mid April and I will send you some pics.
Paul
==============
At 09:40 AM 3/20/05 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
>Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to
>refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it
>all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me
>concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented
>
>
>Rick,
> I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was
>easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside
>the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted
>fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory).
>The
>existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will
>require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal
>outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and
>see
>what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping to
>get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for
>popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to
>get the
>new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up
>some
>epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up
>the slot and outside fairing.
> I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the
>cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from
>coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out past
>that check valve when sitting in the hot sun.
>
>Don Smythe
>Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
Message 28
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
http://www.airpartsinc.com/catalog2005_gif.htm
-------Original Message-------
From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Nameplate
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ray Kurian" <raykurian@earthlink.net>
Harry,
http://www.airpartsinc.com
has them.
Ray Kurian
KitFox Model 1 kit for sale.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Nameplate
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
>
> When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel
> plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the
> model and engine.
>
> Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft
> Spruce to no avail.
>
> Harry,
> I got one from Aircraft spruce in November last year. The P/N on
> the invoice is 09-33200 and the cost was $4.66
>
> Rex.
> rexjan@bigpond.com
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Fuel Stain Removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" <aaaron@tvp.com.au>
In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a
couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the
plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an
ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers
with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the
stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails.
Thanks
Allan
Message 30
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andy" <fultz@trip.net>
Jeffery,
By all means you need to seperate the two circuits with seperate fuses and
switches.
Andy F.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeffrey Puls
Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing Light
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
John "Z"
I'm installing a landing light so I can do some night flying this summer.
When wiring, what do you think of piggy backing off the nav. light
circuit/swicth. Should I make a separate switch? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV
Jeffrey Puls
pulsair@mindspring.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Ring |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Leach Family" <leach@wk.planet.gen.nz>
> Roger sez:
>
> >...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one
> >side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to
> >have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to
> >work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem?
Hi Roger
When installing the 912 engine in my Avid Flyer the water pump had to be
removed and the elbows bent to allow the hoses to clear the engine mount.
After taking the pump off the engine the elbows must be heated slightly to
soften the sealing compound otherwise the aluminum threads will be damaged
when you try and screw them out. After that I got an engineering shop to
bore out a piece of steel with the same size thread so I could screw the
elbows into the steel to bend them. This way you do not risk damaging the
pump itself when you heat up the elbows and bend them. But be warned!!
There is very little difference between being hot enough to bend the elbows
and having a little molten puddle on the floor!! New elbows are available
from your Rotax agent for about $US10 each. I know, I had to buy a couple
of new ones!!
I will email you the two pages of instuction out of the Avid building manual
if you require.
Regards,
Brian Leach
New Zealand
Message 32
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| Subject: | Changing out stock fuel fills |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
One more question reference the new fills. If I want to be able to replace
these some day what would be the best bonding agent to use on the flange to
fiberglass tank top. I was thinking of counter sunk rivnuts with some type
of fuel proof non hardening sealer. Any thoughts?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of paul wilson
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson <pwilson@climber.org>
Hi Rick,
Dons method works when one has access.
My method:
I just cut a hole the size of the new part. Hole saw, dremel and shop vac
to catch the filings. All the exposed metal will be removed as rest of it
is buried in the fiberglass. Recess the tank top to match the flange of the
new part. Chamfer the holes in the new part so the epoxy will flow from the
bottom to the top an lock the flange in place. No reason why one couldn't
bolt the new part flange to the tanks and bed it in epoxy for a better
attachment. Your choice. I located the vent near the hole so I could attach
it with safety wire thru the hole from the top. This vent runs horizontally
out the side under the tank flange, then down below the fabric. I think
this could be done with a covered wing but it would be a pain to get a good
seal at the penetration. A small patch would be required for access. Don't
forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. I just used the
vent line and made sure it had contact with the flange if the new part.
The new filler I used provides a total seal like most planes at the
airport. Meaning there is no check valve just a viton oring.. Thus there is
a need for a vent line.
Contact me mid April and I will send you some pics.
Paul
==============
At 09:40 AM 3/20/05 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
>Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to
>refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it
>all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me
>concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented
>
>
>Rick,
> I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was
>easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside
>the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted
>fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory).
>The
>existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will
>require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal
>outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and
>see
>what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping
to
>get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for
>popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to
>get the
>new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up
>some
>epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up
>the slot and outside fairing.
> I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the
>cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from
>coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out
past
>that check valve when sitting in the hot sun.
>
>Don Smythe
>Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
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