---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 03/20/05: 32 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:15 AM - Re:DekesterProgress (Cliff Olson) 2. 05:25 AM - Re: Metal plaque (Dee Young) 3. 05:47 AM - Re: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale (Rlv1950@aol.com) 4. 06:17 AM - Re: Metal plaque (AlbertaIV@aol.com) 5. 06:41 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (AlbertaIV@aol.com) 6. 06:52 AM - [off-topic] My Girls WAS Aluminum cowl (Michel Verheughe) 7. 07:37 AM - Today's flight (Michel Verheughe) 8. 07:48 AM - Re: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale (John Larsen) 9. 08:26 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Michael Gibbs) 10. 08:32 AM - Re: Metal plaque (Michael Gibbs) 11. 08:58 AM - Re: Today's flight (Herbert R Gottelt) 12. 09:22 AM - Re: Today's flight (Michel Verheughe) 13. 09:27 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Donna and Roger McConnell) 14. 10:00 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick) 15. 10:33 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Ted Palamarek) 16. 11:58 AM - Re: Metal plaque (roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick)) 17. 12:37 PM - Re: Metal plaque (Chenoweth) 18. 01:15 PM - Flap/Trim assist kit (Clifford Begnaud) 19. 01:55 PM - Linkage (Jeffrey Puls) 20. 01:57 PM - Landing Light (Jeffrey Puls) 21. 02:59 PM - Fuel Caps (Rex & Jan Shaw) 22. 03:02 PM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Joel Mapes) 23. 03:04 PM - Nameplate (Rex & Jan Shaw) 24. 03:11 PM - Re: Mounting Ring (Joel Mapes) 25. 04:36 PM - Re: Nameplate (Ray Kurian) 26. 05:01 PM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Lynn Matteson) 27. 05:25 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (paul wilson) 28. 05:34 PM - Re: Nameplate (hausding, sid) 29. 08:11 PM - Fuel Stain Removal (Allan Aaron) 30. 08:33 PM - Re: Landing Light (Andy) 31. 09:28 PM - Re: Mounting Ring (Leach Family) 32. 09:47 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:15:37 AM PST US From: "Cliff Olson" Subject: Kitfox-List: Re:DekesterProgress --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cliff Olson" I have an open Kitfox trailer that anyone is welcome to use.It works great on the models I through IV,I did haul a Model 7 it worked fine but the engine was about four feet out past the end of the trailer.Its a one man setup.I'm about 30 miles north of Toledo Oh.Darryl if you need a trailer today call me,and I'll bring it to ya.Cliff colsonj@provide.net don't archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:25:30 AM PST US From: "Dee Young" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 06:24:46 -0700 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" Harry, go to Skystar web site at http://www.skystar.com/Categorized_Options_Catalog_Page.htm and you will find what you need. Dee Young Model II N345DY When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the model and engine. Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:47:16 AM PST US From: Rlv1950@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rlv1950@aol.com Sorry to say....too many projects and the kitfox must go. Damaged 2 years ago in a nasty ground loop that twisted the fuselage, collapsed the gear, crushed the radiator and took out 1 wing tip. I'd like to offer the following assemblies/parts to a list member at a great price before I post on E-Bay.. 1993 rotax 912 engine with about 400 hours.... $3000.00 2002 replacement fuselage kit, gear,tires,instrument panel with VAL radio, all mounted ready for covering.....$4000.00 Original wings with new tips ready for install... $500.00 Custom built open trailer....$500.00 OR....Buy all for $7000.00 Large parts still needed to complete project are,all fiberglass nose cowling,radiator,engine mount, exhaust system,battery and tail wheel spring,inspection and certification. All parts and assemblies are located in my hangar at the DeLand airport in Florida. Any purchases must be picked up there. All will be sold as is and seen with no warranty or guaranty expressed or implied and sold on a first come first served basis. If interested, please contact me off list at _rlv1950@aol.com_ (mailto:rlv1950@aol.com) and I will get back with you as soon as I can. I also have some pictures I can e-mail. Thanks, Ron LeVee ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:17:58 AM PST US From: AlbertaIV@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com In a message dated 3/20/2005 2:32:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, harry@jts.co.uk writes: Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft Spruce to no avail. Thanks Harry Tucker Harry, I have an older copy of Spruce and what your looking for is at the end of the "Decals" section. Called "NAMEPLATE" P/N 09-33200 ($3.50) Don Smythe Classic IV w/ 582 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:41:22 AM PST US From: AlbertaIV@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented Rick, I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory). The existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and see what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping to get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to get the new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up some epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up the slot and outside fairing. I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out past that check valve when sitting in the hot sun. Don Smythe Classic IV w/ 582 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:52:44 AM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Kitfox-List: [off-topic] My Girls WAS Aluminum cowl --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe Ron Schick wrote: > Michel I to have many girls. I plan on nose art that says "THE OTHER > GIRL". Always out in the garage, always thinking about her, and spending > all my money on her. Yes but isn't bigamy fun, Ron? :-) Cheers, Michel do not archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:37:31 AM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Kitfox-List: Today's flight --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe Hello guys, Went flying today, to Notodden ENNO. Nice weather, no wind, high clouds. Here are some picture: http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LaugenDalen.jpg Ok, at that altitude, I had a bit of headwind. My indicated speed is 92 MPH but I reckon it was more 90 MPH, due to the static port. The RPM is 2600. If I try 3000 at level (that's what I can get now, maybe 3200 when the engine is run-in) I go over 100 MPH, which is my red line. Hum, powerful engine that Jabiru! http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LakeSkiing.jpg Look at this! Norwegians like to ski on the frozen lakes. Some are no good at finding their way and go in rounds. But look at this guy's track! I wonder what he is on! :-) http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/RightBase.jpg Right hand base for ENNO Notodden rwy 30. The runway borders the lake. Don't land too short! http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/ENNO.jpg Tango (my Kitfox a.k.a. wife #2) at Notodden ENNO. Not much traffic on this Sunday morning. Cheers, Michel do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:48:39 AM PST US From: John Larsen Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Model 4/1050 rebuild project assemblies 4-sale --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen Hello I notice that you said no guarantees, however I need the engine. Consider it sold. Give me a call at 208 495 2834 regarding payment. Thanks John Rlv1950@aol.com wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rlv1950@aol.com > >Sorry to say....too many projects and the kitfox must go. Damaged 2 years >ago in a nasty ground loop that twisted the fuselage, collapsed the gear, >crushed the radiator and took out 1 wing tip. >I'd like to offer the following assemblies/parts to a list member at a great >price before I post on E-Bay.. >1993 rotax 912 engine with about 400 hours.... $3000.00 >2002 replacement fuselage kit, gear,tires,instrument panel with VAL radio, >all mounted ready for covering.....$4000.00 >Original wings with new tips ready for install... $500.00 >Custom built open trailer....$500.00 >OR....Buy all for $7000.00 >Large parts still needed to complete project are,all fiberglass nose >cowling,radiator,engine mount, exhaust system,battery and tail wheel >spring,inspection and certification. >All parts and assemblies are located in my hangar at the DeLand airport in >Florida. Any purchases must be picked up there. All will be sold as is and >seen with no warranty or guaranty expressed or implied and sold on a first come >first served basis. >If interested, please contact me off list at _rlv1950@aol.com_ >(mailto:rlv1950@aol.com) and I will get back with you as soon as I can. I also have some >pictures I can e-mail. >Thanks, >Ron LeVee > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:26:43 AM PST US From: Michael Gibbs Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs Roger sez: >...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one >side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to >have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to >work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem? I had the same problem on my Model IV, Roger. I would not try to bend the water pump outlet pipes. What we did was use a heat gun to soften the sealer used to hold the outlet pipes in place--you can eventually pop them loose. Reposition them to angles that will clear the motor mount and then reseal them using the sealer specified in the Rotax service manual (I don't remember what it is offhand). You may find that you need different hose to reach the cylinder heads afterwards, depending upon how much you changed the angle of the outlet pipes. Good luck, Mike G. N728KF ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:21 AM PST US From: Michael Gibbs Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs Harry sez: >Does anyone know where to get [an aircraft data plate] as I have >looked at Aircraft Spruce to no avail. Mine was supplied with the kit when I purchased it, so I'm sure SkyStar can supply you with one. Spruce does have one as well: Mike G. N728KF ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:58:34 AM PST US From: Herbert R Gottelt Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Today's flight --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt Hello, Michael, very nice pictures, very nice Kitfox! But when you are on right base, should'nt you see the airport? Or is it an extended r/b with the runway several miles away close to the right upper corner? Herb Gottelt,4-1200, Mt. Prospect, IL Michel Verheughe wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe Hello guys, Went flying today, to Notodden ENNO. Nice weather, no wind, high clouds. Here are some picture: http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LaugenDalen.jpg Ok, at that altitude, I had a bit of headwind. My indicated speed is 92 MPH but I reckon it was more 90 MPH, due to the static port. The RPM is 2600. If I try 3000 at level (that's what I can get now, maybe 3200 when the engine is run-in) I go over 100 MPH, which is my red line. Hum, powerful engine that Jabiru! http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/LakeSkiing.jpg Look at this! Norwegians like to ski on the frozen lakes. Some are no good at finding their way and go in rounds. But look at this guy's track! I wonder what he is on! :-) http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/RightBase.jpg Right hand base for ENNO Notodden rwy 30. The runway borders the lake. Don't land too short! http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/ENNO.jpg Tango (my Kitfox a.k.a. wife #2) at Notodden ENNO. Not much traffic on this Sunday morning. Cheers, Michel do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:22:47 AM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Today's flight --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe Herbert R Gottelt wrote: > But when you are on right base, should'nt you see the airport? Or is it an extended > r/b with the runway several miles away close to the right upper corner? You are right, Herb, it is the runway you see in the right upper corner and ... it isn't really a right base. Notodden tower is unmanned on week-ends and as I came in from the north east, I transmitted my position to an eventual traffic in the pattern. But there was none. Since there was no wind either on the ground, I took the shortest way, runway 30. I kept the heading from the moment of the photo, until I was over the lake, then reported final. In fact, traffic pattern on the north east of the runway is forbidden because it is over the town. So, right base three zero is ... forbidden! :-) The only thing to care for, at Notodden, is the road crossing the runway. Years ago, the airport was used by commercial planes and was long enough for that. Today, it is a center for gliders and also GA mechanic. They displaced the threshold half way down the runway to let a road cross it. I don't know why they still keep the other half, though, no "biggies" will ever fly here. But one has to be careful when using runway 12 and read the approach plate before going visual. Cheers, Michel do not archive ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:27:46 AM PST US From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" Thank you Michael, I will try that. I agree bending is probable not a good choice. DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Gibbs Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs Roger sez: >...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one >side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to >have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to >work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem? I had the same problem on my Model IV, Roger. I would not try to bend the water pump outlet pipes. What we did was use a heat gun to soften the sealer used to hold the outlet pipes in place--you can eventually pop them loose. Reposition them to angles that will clear the motor mount and then reseal them using the sealer specified in the Rotax service manual (I don't remember what it is offhand). You may find that you need different hose to reach the cylinder heads afterwards, depending upon how much you changed the angle of the outlet pipes. Good luck, Mike G. N728KF ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:00:14 AM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" Thanks Don, Yep its going to be fun, but cant have that rusted metal up there. Did you see the model A512 on page 165. It has a nice 3 inch entry so seeing into the tank when filling wont be such a pain. I could just make similar vent tubes like Sky star caps and use one of the mount holes. You know maybe thread one end of some small thick wall stainless and bend per old cap. There must be a good reason for the design being so tall and forward don't you think. I am not real keen on that vent check valve idea either. -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of AlbertaIV@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented Rick, I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory). The existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and see what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping to get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to get the new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up some epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up the slot and outside fairing. I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out past that check valve when sitting in the hot sun. Don Smythe Classic IV w/ 582 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:33:03 AM PST US From: "Ted Palamarek" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" Roger and John I bought three special fitting from Skystar that prevent the problem you are talking about. You have to remove the existing fittings with some heat to release the locktite and install the Skystar fittings. This avoids the problem. My engine was bought locally from the Rotax dealer in Canada. Ted Palamarek Edmonton, Ab Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King Roger, Did you get your 912 from SkyStar or somewhere else? One of the mods SkyStar performs on the 912 for the Kitfox installation is to rotate the water pump. I never knew why, but this may be the reason. I put a 912UL in my Model IV and a 912S in my Series 6 and never had that problem. Both of my engines were purchased from SkyStar. I would not attempt to bend the aluminum ports on the water pump cover. -- John King Warrenton, VA Donna and Roger McConnell wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" > >I need some advice from members that have installed the Rotax 912s on there >Model 5, 6 or 7. Currently I am installing the Mount Ring on the back of a >912s and before I could get the mount on I had to remove the water pump >cover because the four aluminum tubes running to it were in the way. After I >got the Ring Mount on and was reinstalling the water pump cover the two >tubes on the left side of the cover were in the way of the supports on the >Ring Mount. These aluminum tubes have rubber hoses attached to them coming >from each cylinder head. My question is can these tubes be bent slightly to >one side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to have >to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to work. Has anyone >on the List run into this kind of problem? > > Roger Mac > > S7/912s > > =========== Contributions other =========== http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm http://www.matronics.com/browse/kitfox-list http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list =========== ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:58:50 AM PST US From: roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick) Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque 2005 09:31:54 -0700 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick) Cps Airwolf has them Ron do not archive ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:37:30 PM PST US From: "Chenoweth" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" I got mine from Skystar. When you have it "engraved" do it at a trophy shop not a jeweler's. In my case the price difference was over 30 dollars. Bill do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harry Tucker" Subject: Kitfox-List: Metal plaque > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" > > Hi > > > When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel > plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the > model and engine. > > Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft > Spruce to no avail. > > > Thanks > > > Harry Tucker > > PO Box 2830, White River 1240 South Africa > > Tel ++ 27 13 751 5018 Fax ++ 27 33 13 751 1042 > > Email harry@htucker.com > > > DISCLAIMER > Internet communications are not secure and therefore Jt's Europe Ltd > does not accept legal responsibility for the contents of this message. > If you are not the intended recipient please notify the sender immediately > and do not disclose the contents to any third party. Any views or opinions > expressed are those of the author, and do not necessarily represent those > of Jt's Europe Ltd. Although Jt's Europe Ltd believes this email and > any attachments are free of any virus or other defect which may affect > a computer, it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that it > is virus-free and Jt's Europe Ltd does not accept any responsibility > for any loss or damage arising in any way from its use. > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 01:15:07 PM PST US From: "Clifford Begnaud" Subject: Kitfox-List: Flap/Trim assist kit --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" I recently purchased and installed the flap/trim assist kit developed and sold by John McBean of Sport Plane LLC. This kit is very nicely done, easy to install and works amazingly well. The kit includes a spring that interconnects the elevator and flap mechanisms plus some specialized hardware needed to install it. This kit puts some "up elevator" pressure at all times and when you drop the flaps it increases the "up elevator" pressure. The primary purpose of the kit is to relieve the normal "back stick" pressure that the pilot has to hold when flying slow with little or no power, especially when lightly loaded. Our plane is a model 5 with Lycoming 0-235. My wife always complained about the amount of back stick pressure she had to hold when approaching to land, now with this kit we can trim out all the back pressure with half flaps. When solo, I can almost trim out all the back pressure with full flaps. With two on board or with some cargo in the cargo sack, all the pressure can be trimmed out with full flaps. In flight you can't tell that the kit is there, normal flight is completely unaffected by it. I also noticed a couple of other benefits to the kit, one is that when getting into the plane the stick is now back against the seat, so I don't have to move it or hold it there while boarding. Second, I now find that it's much easier to hold the stick back while taxiing. I highly recommend this kit to anyone with a model 5/6/7 kitfox. The kit weighs less than 8 oz and installs in about 10 minutes. You can find it at this web site: http://www.sportplanellc.com/ Cliff Erie, Co ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:55:31 PM PST US From: "Jeffrey Puls" Subject: Kitfox-List: Linkage --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" What are you guys using to lube the linkages on your chokes and carburators? Jeff Classic IV 912UL Jeffrey Puls pulsair@mindspring.com ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:57:39 PM PST US From: "Jeffrey Puls" Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing Light --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" John "Z" I'm installing a landing light so I can do some night flying this summer. When wiring, what do you think of piggy backing off the nav. light circuit/swicth. Should I make a separate switch? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV Jeffrey Puls pulsair@mindspring.com ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:59:23 PM PST US From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" Subject: Kitfox-List: Fuel Caps --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" My thought was that the top of the wing is a low pressure area and it might not let enough air in to allow fuel to drain. Page 164 of their catalog "twist to lock flush fuel caps. What do you folks think? Rick, I was losing fuel across the wing in flight due to the low pressure area on top of the wing. I made new gaskets and problem fixed but all that suggests to me you might be right and need those little forward facing vents sticking up to ensure proper fuel flow. Rex. rexjan@bigpond.com ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:14 PM PST US From: "Joel Mapes" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Flaperon film removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" Lynn, Those are bright, shiny flaperons! The previous owner of this kit had it in Florida for over 10 years, so I guess the heat has thouroughly baked on the film. I noticed in the picture you posted that much of the film laying on the floor is in small chunks. It looks like I have my work cut out for me. I think I'll wait for some dry weather and do it outside. Even with an exhaust fan the garage now reeks of turpentine. Joel Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:04:39 PM PST US From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" Subject: Kitfox-List: Nameplate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the model and engine. Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft Spruce to no avail. Harry, I got one from Aircraft spruce in November last year. The P/N on the invoice is 09-33200 and the cost was $4.66 Rex. rexjan@bigpond.com ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:11:06 PM PST US From: "Joel Mapes" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" I ran into the same issue. Rotax makes water pump elbows in different angles. Part # 922 232, bent socket 45 degrees and part# 922 230, bent socket 80 degrees. The sockets can be removed from the water pump housing by heating the socket with a propane torch to loosen the thread sealent. You need to remove the water pump housing from the engine first. Determine the angle and position you will need and order the correct socket(s) from Lockwood or CPS. Joel Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:36:51 PM PST US From: "Ray Kurian" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Nameplate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ray Kurian" Harry, http://www.airpartsinc.com has them. Ray Kurian KitFox Model 1 kit for sale. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" Subject: Kitfox-List: Nameplate > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" > > When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel > plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the > model and engine. > > Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft > Spruce to no avail. > > Harry, > I got one from Aircraft spruce in November last year. The P/N on > the invoice is 09-33200 and the cost was $4.66 > > Rex. > rexjan@bigpond.com > > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:01:13 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Flaperon film removal From: Lynn Matteson --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson Joel- Yeah, it's a shame to think I'll have to paint them! And you are right, there was a lot of skinny, maybe 1/4" wide "slivers" of film that came off. but also a lot of large sheets...like peeling sunburn. I recall that I used a plastic squeegee to get some of it off....the kind that you apply Bondo with. You mentioned the smell of turpentine....is that what you're using? I used "paint thinner"....also called mineral spirits. I'm not sure how this differs from turpentine, but if you're still having problems, give mineral spirits a shot. Just be cautious about getting it into the hinge slots. The brand I had was Sunnyside, sold at most hardware stores and Menard's around here in Michigan. My kit came from Texas, so the same heated environment. Lynn On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 06:01 PM, Joel Mapes wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" > > > Lynn, > > Those are bright, shiny flaperons! The previous owner of this kit had > it in > Florida for over 10 years, so I guess the heat has thouroughly baked > on the > film. I noticed in the picture you posted that much of the film laying > on > the floor is in small chunks. It looks like I have my work cut out > for me. > I think I'll wait for some dry weather and do it outside. Even with an > exhaust fan the garage now reeks of turpentine. > > Joel > Model 5 912 GTA CS prop Aerocomp amphibs > > Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! > http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > > _- > ======================================================================= > Download, > _- > ======================================================================= > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:30 PM PST US From: paul wilson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson Hi Rick, Dons method works when one has access. My method: I just cut a hole the size of the new part. Hole saw, dremel and shop vac to catch the filings. All the exposed metal will be removed as rest of it is buried in the fiberglass. Recess the tank top to match the flange of the new part. Chamfer the holes in the new part so the epoxy will flow from the bottom to the top an lock the flange in place. No reason why one couldn't bolt the new part flange to the tanks and bed it in epoxy for a better attachment. Your choice. I located the vent near the hole so I could attach it with safety wire thru the hole from the top. This vent runs horizontally out the side under the tank flange, then down below the fabric. I think this could be done with a covered wing but it would be a pain to get a good seal at the penetration. A small patch would be required for access. Don't forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. I just used the vent line and made sure it had contact with the flange if the new part. The new filler I used provides a total seal like most planes at the airport. Meaning there is no check valve just a viton oring.. Thus there is a need for a vent line. Contact me mid April and I will send you some pics. Paul ============== At 09:40 AM 3/20/05 -0500, you wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com > > >Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to >refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it >all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me >concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented > > >Rick, > I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was >easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside >the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted >fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory). >The >existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will >require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal >outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and >see >what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping to >get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for >popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to >get the >new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up >some >epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up >the slot and outside fairing. > I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the >cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from >coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out past >that check valve when sitting in the hot sun. > >Don Smythe >Classic IV w/ 582 > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:34:34 PM PST US From: "hausding, sid" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Nameplate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" http://www.airpartsinc.com/catalog2005_gif.htm -------Original Message------- From: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Nameplate --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ray Kurian" Harry, http://www.airpartsinc.com has them. Ray Kurian KitFox Model 1 kit for sale. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" Subject: Kitfox-List: Nameplate > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" > > When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel > plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the > model and engine. > > Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft > Spruce to no avail. > > Harry, > I got one from Aircraft spruce in November last year. The P/N on > the invoice is 09-33200 and the cost was $4.66 > > Rex. > rexjan@bigpond.com > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 08:11:14 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal From: "Allan Aaron" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. Thanks Allan ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 08:33:19 PM PST US From: "Andy" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Landing Light --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andy" Jeffery, By all means you need to seperate the two circuits with seperate fuses and switches. Andy F. -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeffrey Puls Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing Light --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" John "Z" I'm installing a landing light so I can do some night flying this summer. When wiring, what do you think of piggy backing off the nav. light circuit/swicth. Should I make a separate switch? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV Jeffrey Puls pulsair@mindspring.com ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:28:52 PM PST US From: "Leach Family" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Leach Family" > Roger sez: > > >...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one > >side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to > >have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to > >work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem? Hi Roger When installing the 912 engine in my Avid Flyer the water pump had to be removed and the elbows bent to allow the hoses to clear the engine mount. After taking the pump off the engine the elbows must be heated slightly to soften the sealing compound otherwise the aluminum threads will be damaged when you try and screw them out. After that I got an engineering shop to bore out a piece of steel with the same size thread so I could screw the elbows into the steel to bend them. This way you do not risk damaging the pump itself when you heat up the elbows and bend them. But be warned!! There is very little difference between being hot enough to bend the elbows and having a little molten puddle on the floor!! New elbows are available from your Rotax agent for about $US10 each. I know, I had to buy a couple of new ones!! I will email you the two pages of instuction out of the Avid building manual if you require. Regards, Brian Leach New Zealand ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 09:47:34 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" One more question reference the new fills. If I want to be able to replace these some day what would be the best bonding agent to use on the flange to fiberglass tank top. I was thinking of counter sunk rivnuts with some type of fuel proof non hardening sealer. Any thoughts? Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of paul wilson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson Hi Rick, Dons method works when one has access. My method: I just cut a hole the size of the new part. Hole saw, dremel and shop vac to catch the filings. All the exposed metal will be removed as rest of it is buried in the fiberglass. Recess the tank top to match the flange of the new part. Chamfer the holes in the new part so the epoxy will flow from the bottom to the top an lock the flange in place. No reason why one couldn't bolt the new part flange to the tanks and bed it in epoxy for a better attachment. Your choice. I located the vent near the hole so I could attach it with safety wire thru the hole from the top. This vent runs horizontally out the side under the tank flange, then down below the fabric. I think this could be done with a covered wing but it would be a pain to get a good seal at the penetration. A small patch would be required for access. Don't forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. I just used the vent line and made sure it had contact with the flange if the new part. The new filler I used provides a total seal like most planes at the airport. Meaning there is no check valve just a viton oring.. Thus there is a need for a vent line. Contact me mid April and I will send you some pics. Paul ============== At 09:40 AM 3/20/05 -0500, you wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com > > >Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to >refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it >all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me >concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented > > >Rick, > I did that but had my tanks cut open on the bottom so installation was >easy. I was able to mount the tank portion of the recessed cap from inside >the tank. You won't have that luxury. When you cut out the existing rusted >fuel cap, you will end up with a hole in the tanks about 3" (from memory). >The >existing cap is fiberglassed into the tank and to get all the metal, will >require the 3" or so hole. With fabric and paint, you can's see the metal >outline on where to cut. I would start by getting the new recessed cap and >see >what the flange dia. is. You will have to cut the hole in the tank (hoping to >get all the old metal) then, get the new flange inside the tank for >popriveting. You might be able to cut a slot in the round tank opening to >get the >new one inside. Once it is drilled and cleco"d in place, you could mix up >some >epoxy paste and put it together. Then, use some epoxy and tape to fix up >the slot and outside fairing. > I'm just guessing on how I might proceed if it were me. I looked at the >cap in Spruce. I see it has an internal check valve to prevent fuel from >coming out. I would have a concern on how built up air pressure gets out past >that check valve when sitting in the hot sun. > >Don Smythe >Classic IV w/ 582 > >