---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 03/21/05: 30 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:39 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Lynn Matteson) 2. 04:31 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Sterling) 3. 05:07 AM - Re: Landing Light (Jeffrey Puls) 4. 05:45 AM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (W Duke) 5. 06:40 AM - Re: Mounting Ring (Donna and Roger McConnell) 6. 06:46 AM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick) 7. 06:49 AM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (Rick) 8. 06:51 AM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (flier) 9. 06:53 AM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (Steve Zakreski) 10. 08:03 AM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (kerrjohna@comcast.net) 11. 08:04 AM - Re: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01 (NSI AERO) 12. 11:45 AM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (Lyle Persels) 13. 01:13 PM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (Sterling) 14. 02:26 PM - Mosler Motors $1.00 video (Sterling) 15. 03:03 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (paul wilson) 16. 03:14 PM - Another $1.00 Orndorf Video on Ebay (Sterling) 17. 04:36 PM - EASY, Flaperon film removal (Forfun3@aol.com) 18. 04:54 PM - Bottom False Ribs (jim_crane@mindspring.com) 19. 05:13 PM - Re: Bottom False Ribs (Don Pearsall) 20. 05:17 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (AlbertaIV@aol.com) 21. 06:17 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Randy Daughenbaugh) 22. 07:08 PM - Re: Landing Light (KITFOXZ@aol.com) 23. 07:16 PM - 582 Crank Needed (jareds) 24. 07:57 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Lynn Matteson) 25. 08:29 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (kurt schrader) 26. 08:30 PM - Re: Fuel Stain Removal (Ceashman@aol.com) 27. 08:38 PM - Re: Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick) 28. 09:27 PM - Re: NSI Oli pressure (kurt schrader) 29. 09:42 PM - Re: 582 Crank Needed (aerocon1@telusplanet.net) 30. 10:39 PM - Re: 582 Crank Needed (r.thomas@za.pwc.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:39:33 AM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills From: Lynn Matteson --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson Ooops, I don't see any reference in my manual about any "ground to spar".....should there be? I've read here about the need to ground while refueling, but wouldn't a ground to the spar just end up not getting to the real ground anyway because of the tires? Or is this just providing a convenient way for the fuel person to attach his ground clamp? Lynn On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 08:16 PM, paul wilson wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson > Don't > forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:31:19 AM PST US From: "Sterling" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" Not that this is specifically Kitfox related, but it addresses the issue I have with grounding a fiberglass fuel tank in an airplane that isn't made out of aluminum. I built an Avid Sportster 13 years ago and did some tricks to keep static from jumping when gassing the airplane... Below is what I sent to EAA and AOPA about 10 days ago. EAA has not responded and AOPA had no information to address this issue. But for now, these tips might be of help... I'm building a Pietenpol and am curently building my fuel tanks out of fiberglass. I've been doing some research and it seems that fiberglass (or any plastic type material) when introduced to friction in the air, absorbs an electrical charge--especially during winter operations in dry climates as we have here in the southwest. I'm concerned about static discharge and the resultant KABOOM that might happen when fueling my wooden airplane. Grounding a wooden airplane having fiberglass fuel tanks is nearly impossible. I'd like to bounce my ideas off someone at EAA concerning my plans to prevent a fire and if someone has a better method than I do, I'd really appreciate hearing back from EAA. I was a TV news reporter in El Paso many years ago and I covererd a story about a man who was burned badly when fueling a go cart after unloading it from a trailer onto the ground. He had a couple of plastic gas cans he hauled in the back of his pickup (lined with AstroTurf). The Fire Marshal (as my old clouded memory recalls) believed that when the man slid his plastic gas can out of the AstroTurf in the pickup bed, and then attempted to fuel the gocart, a static spark ignited the vapors. I don't want anything like this happening to me, after seeing this guy with burns all over his arms and face. As I finish the final layer of fiberglass on my fuel tanks, I plan to embed a copper ground line purchased from Aircraft Spruce into the final layer of the fiberglass, leading to the aluminum fuel neck that will be bonded into the fiberglass. The copper line will be run to all three fuel tanks and will terminate under the fuselage at or near the gear legs, so that I might have a way to ground the tanks and eliminate the static charge before introducing a plastic gas can to an aluminum filler neck on my airplane. Although I know it is a cardinal sin to gas an airplane using plastic gas cans, but many of us out here in the toolies have to ocassionally refuel using plastic cans (we have no choice when landing at remote airfields and fuel isn't available.. (except 10 miles away at a gas station in town...) An additional step I plan to use when fueling my flamable airplane.... I've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix, and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the Southwest, on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static after walking around on a dry surface. Many rolls of photograpic film have been ruined in dark rooms when spooling film out of cassette. The static can bee seen on the film after development. The Downey/water method eliminates the static charge, thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when treated with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a must on man-made textiles.) When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my Downy "formula" for spraying down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where I stand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic cans. (The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so to dry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading/unloading a plastic can! Try gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South Dakota... ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer's Last Stand in Montana... No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away having plastic "loaner" cans. That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water in my airplane. I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though. I wonder if there is an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane having fiberglass tanks other than the two methods I have described above? Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but sometimes we don't have a choice. Sterling Brooks (EAA 695308) Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch (5TA6, San Antonio Sectional) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson > > Ooops, I don't see any reference in my manual about any "ground to > spar".....should there be? I've read here about the need to ground > while refueling, but wouldn't a ground to the spar just end up not > getting to the real ground anyway because of the tires? Or is this just > providing a convenient way for the fuel person to attach his ground > clamp? > > Lynn > > On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 08:16 PM, paul wilson wrote: > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson > > Don't > > forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:07:14 AM PST US From: "Jeffrey Puls" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Landing Light --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" Thanks Andy. Jeff > [Original Message] > From: Andy > To: > Date: 3/20/2005 11:33:03 PM > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Landing Light > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andy" > > Jeffery, > > By all means you need to seperate the two circuits with seperate fuses and > switches. > > Andy F. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeffrey Puls > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing Light > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" > > John "Z" > I'm installing a landing light so I can do some night flying this summer. > When wiring, what do you think of piggy backing off the nav. light > circuit/swicth. Should I make a separate switch? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV > > > Jeffrey Puls > pulsair@mindspring.com > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:45:13 AM PST US From: W Duke Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke I have used bleach at half and full strength which helps. It will not completely remove it. Turned mine a lighter (less noticeable) magenta. Mine were on white polytone on top of the wing and disappeared with time. Maxwell Allan Aaron wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. Thanks Allan Maxwell Duke S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:40:12 AM PST US From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" Thank you Brian, but the instructions won't be necessary. The instructions I got from this list was all I needed. I also got info on different fittings I could order from Rotax if need be. I was able to rotate my 45 degree fitting and got them to work. Best Regards Roger Mac p.s. Are you any kin to Robin (Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous) Leach? DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leach Family Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Mounting Ring --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Leach Family" > Roger sez: > > >...can these [Rotax 912 water pump] tubes be bent slightly to one > >side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to > >have to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to > >work. Has anyone on the List run into this kind of problem? Hi Roger When installing the 912 engine in my Avid Flyer the water pump had to be removed and the elbows bent to allow the hoses to clear the engine mount. After taking the pump off the engine the elbows must be heated slightly to soften the sealing compound otherwise the aluminum threads will be damaged when you try and screw them out. After that I got an engineering shop to bore out a piece of steel with the same size thread so I could screw the elbows into the steel to bend them. This way you do not risk damaging the pump itself when you heat up the elbows and bend them. But be warned!! There is very little difference between being hot enough to bend the elbows and having a little molten puddle on the floor!! New elbows are available from your Rotax agent for about $US10 each. I know, I had to buy a couple of new ones!! I will email you the two pages of instuction out of the Avid building manual if you require. Regards, Brian Leach New Zealand ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:46:59 AM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" I would think the spar should be grounded to the airframe, the engine to that and the ground clamp to usually the exhaust. Maybe I missed something. But this was a good reminder of the potential hazard. So I think I will make myself one small empty emergency aluminum gas can with a ground lug and two additional 5 gal cans for fuel draining and such. Hey I am suppose to be finishing stuff not finding stuff to do...:) Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sterling Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" Not that this is specifically Kitfox related, but it addresses the issue I have with grounding a fiberglass fuel tank in an airplane that isn't made out of aluminum. I built an Avid Sportster 13 years ago and did some tricks to keep static from jumping when gassing the airplane... Below is what I sent to EAA and AOPA about 10 days ago. EAA has not responded and AOPA had no information to address this issue. But for now, these tips might be of help... I'm building a Pietenpol and am curently building my fuel tanks out of fiberglass. I've been doing some research and it seems that fiberglass (or any plastic type material) when introduced to friction in the air, absorbs an electrical charge--especially during winter operations in dry climates as we have here in the southwest. I'm concerned about static discharge and the resultant KABOOM that might happen when fueling my wooden airplane. Grounding a wooden airplane having fiberglass fuel tanks is nearly impossible. I'd like to bounce my ideas off someone at EAA concerning my plans to prevent a fire and if someone has a better method than I do, I'd really appreciate hearing back from EAA. I was a TV news reporter in El Paso many years ago and I covererd a story about a man who was burned badly when fueling a go cart after unloading it from a trailer onto the ground. He had a couple of plastic gas cans he hauled in the back of his pickup (lined with AstroTurf). The Fire Marshal (as my old clouded memory recalls) believed that when the man slid his plastic gas can out of the AstroTurf in the pickup bed, and then attempted to fuel the gocart, a static spark ignited the vapors. I don't want anything like this happening to me, after seeing this guy with burns all over his arms and face. As I finish the final layer of fiberglass on my fuel tanks, I plan to embed a copper ground line purchased from Aircraft Spruce into the final layer of the fiberglass, leading to the aluminum fuel neck that will be bonded into the fiberglass. The copper line will be run to all three fuel tanks and will terminate under the fuselage at or near the gear legs, so that I might have a way to ground the tanks and eliminate the static charge before introducing a plastic gas can to an aluminum filler neck on my airplane. Although I know it is a cardinal sin to gas an airplane using plastic gas cans, but many of us out here in the toolies have to ocassionally refuel using plastic cans (we have no choice when landing at remote airfields and fuel isn't available.. (except 10 miles away at a gas station in town...) An additional step I plan to use when fueling my flamable airplane.... I've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix, and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the Southwest, on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static after walking around on a dry surface. Many rolls of photograpic film have been ruined in dark rooms when spooling film out of cassette. The static can bee seen on the film after development. The Downey/water method eliminates the static charge, thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when treated with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a must on man-made textiles.) When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my Downy "formula" for spraying down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where I stand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic cans. (The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so to dry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading/unloading a plastic can! Try gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South Dakota... ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer's Last Stand in Montana... No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away having plastic "loaner" cans. That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water in my airplane. I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though. I wonder if there is an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane having fiberglass tanks other than the two methods I have described above? Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but sometimes we don't have a choice. Sterling Brooks (EAA 695308) Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch (5TA6, San Antonio Sectional) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson > > Ooops, I don't see any reference in my manual about any "ground to > spar".....should there be? I've read here about the need to ground > while refueling, but wouldn't a ground to the spar just end up not > getting to the real ground anyway because of the tires? Or is this just > providing a convenient way for the fuel person to attach his ground > clamp? > > Lynn > > On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 08:16 PM, paul wilson wrote: > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson > > Don't > > forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:25 AM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" Yep, guess what color the area around the fuel fills will be if i ever paint again, and the color isnt white. Guess. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of W Duke Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke I have used bleach at half and full strength which helps. It will not completely remove it. Turned mine a lighter (less noticeable) magenta. Mine were on white polytone on top of the wing and disappeared with time. Maxwell Allan Aaron wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. Thanks Allan Maxwell Duke S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:51:23 AM PST US From: "flier" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" Simple Green works well. I've used it at full strength on PolyTone with excellent results completely removing the yellowing. Another thing that really helps is to keep the wings waxed (with a good Carnauba wax) particularly around the tanks. My fuel stains come off simply with Fantastic. Regards, Ted --- Original Message --- From: W Duke Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke > >I have used bleach at half and full strength which helps. It will not completely remove it. Turned mine a lighter (less noticeable) magenta. Mine were on white polytone on top of the wing and disappeared with time. > >Maxwell > >Allan Aaron wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" > >In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a >couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the >plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an >ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers >with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the >stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. > >Thanks >Allan > > >Maxwell Duke >S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing > > >_- ====================================================== ================= browse the many List Archive Search & Download, much more: http://www.matronics.com/ListFeaturesNavigator?Kitfox- List >_- ====================================================== ================= > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:53:49 AM PST US From: Steve Zakreski Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski I recall a post a few years ago saying the best way to remove fuel stains is with a rag soaked in fuel! SteveZ Calgary -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allan Aaron Subject: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. Thanks Allan ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:03:33 AM PST US From: kerrjohna@comcast.net Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net try a rag damp with the fuel. it has worked for me. John Kerr -------------- Original message -------------- > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" > > In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a > couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the > plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an > ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers > with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the > stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. > > Thanks > Allan > > > > > > try a rag damp with the fuel. it has worked for me. John Kerr -------------- Original message -------------- -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. Thanks Allan such as the Subscriptions page, Archive Search Download, ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:04:36 AM PST US From: "NSI AERO" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "NSI AERO" Hi Dan, Check with your local FBO. Most service technicians have a "Strobe" type dynamic balancing system so that they can check/balance the propeller on a running engine with the spinner in place. This type of balancing is the most accurate and will insure optimal performance of your prop. Lance -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Aller Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller" --> Lance Wheeler, Thanks for getting my prop blades back to me so soon. Would you please tell me how to do this? Propeller Operating Limits: All propellers should be balanced on the aircraft within the first 10 hours of service. Dan Aller ----- Original Message ----- From: "NSI AERO" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01 > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "NSI AERO" > > A copy of this document is avaialble in Adobe PDF format. Please > contact NSI by e-mail for a copy. > > > NSI Airworthiness Directive > AD Number: > 030605-01 > > Date Issued: > March 6, 2005 > > Author: > J. Lance Wheeler, Director of Product Development, NSI, LLC > > Manufacturer Product Effected: > NSI CAP Propeller (In-flight Adjustable Propeller) > Warp Drive VRS Propeller (In-flight Adjustable Propeller) > > Models Affected: > NSI Model 140 > Warp Drive Model VRS 140 > > Approved Engines: > Rotax 912UL, 912S, 914 Turbo > NSI EA81 (All models), EA81 Turbo (All models) > Solar T65 Turbo-prop (100 & 150 HP versions) > Garrett 150 Turbo-prop (150 HP version) > Jabaru 3300 (Now in field evaluation) > > Engines Affected By This AD: > Rotax 912, 912S, 914 Turbo > > Propeller Production Dates Affected: > January 1, 1995 thru June 21, 1999 > > Serial Numbers Affected: > 010195-001 thru 062199-100 > The first six numbers represent the production date (month/day/year) > and > the > last three numbers are the serial number, starting at zero for that > production run. The maximum serial number is 100. (100 unit max. per > production run) > > > Page 1 of 4 > > Reported Failure: > On June 6, 2004, a Kitfox Model 4 Anphib (C-GOOT) piloted by owner > Gary Walsh was nearing the end of a 3.5 hour flight to a informal > fly-in at the Brantford airport in Ontario Canada. Approaching the > Brantford airport the propeller suffered a catastrophic blade cuff > retention failure (The part that holds the blade assembly into the > propeller hub is referred to as a > cuff) causing one blade to depart from the propeller hub. The pilot > managed > to shut the engine off very quickly but the resulting severe propeller > vibration caused damage to the engine mount frame, exhaust pipes and > several > engine support systems. The broken blade assembly had lodged it's self > into > the left float. The pilot made a successful dead stick landing on the run > way with no further damage to the aircraft or injuries to the occupants. > > Back Round Information: > Production of the CAP Model 140 began in 1995 and is currently still > in production with approximately 890 units sold in 23 countries by NSI > and Warp Drive. NSI has received reports of four catastrophic cuff > failures of this > Model since production began. A Lycoming O-235 was the first reported > failure of the CAP 140 cuff in 1997. Although the failure was later > determined to be a misapplication of the Model 140 (Non-approved engine > type) the cuff was revised (version 2) to increase its torsional load > capabilities. The three other failed units were manufactured for use on > 80 > HP Rotax 912 UL engines. These three Rotax applications were later > transferred/installed onto the 100 HP 912S. One of them (Ray Volk Kitfox) > had 720 hours on his 912UL and then an additional 200 plus on his > replacement 912S engine. Of the 3, two of them had blade strikes during > their history. > > NSI has produced three versions of the Model 140 since production > began. Version 1 units were produced from January of 1995 to June of > 1999. The version 2 units were produced from March of 1998 to > November 1, 2004. Version 3 is the current production unit, and other > than revisions to the blade cuff, no other major changes have been > made to the hub or blade retention components. > > Gary Walsh purchased a used CAP propeller for his Kitfox and it is > unknown how many flight hours and type of service/maintenance were on > the unit prior to being purchased by Gary. He reports that he has > more than 210 hours of use on the Rotax 912S. To date, NSI has not > received any reports of a version 2 cuff failure when used on Rotax > 912 and 914 engines. There are examples of > > Failure Review: > What all four failures have in common is that they were version 1 > units produced prior to 1999 and that the failure of the type 2024-T3 > aluminum version 1 cuff was due to metal fatigue. The fatigue was the > result of an increase in the level of torsional vibration from the > 100HP Rotax when compared to the 80 HP 912UL. This dog-fight between > the crankshaft and propeller occurs at low engine operating speeds > (less than 2000 RPM) when starting, idling and shut-down. > > Contributing factors to the failure > 1. Upon inspection of Gary Walsh's failed propeller assembly, there > was > significant evidence of improper assembly/maintenance of the unit. > One of the blade cuffs had 41 deep hammer/punch marks on an important > mating surface adjacent to a ball bearing race that > > Page 2 of 4 > > supports the cuff/blade assembly in the hub. The main support ball > bearing > on another cuff had been improperly handled causing both the inner and > outer > races to become distorted and was binding when rotated. > 2. Gary Walsh indicated that his Rotax engine manual recommended > that > the engine run at 1600 to 1800 RPM during the warm up period. At this > speed > the engine is not above the 2000 RPM minimum required to stay out of the > severe torsional range of this engine. It is estimated that the fatigue > life of the version 1 cuff is decreased by 80% when allowed to operate > below > 2000 RPM for prolonged periods of time such as the case at hand. Rotax > has > since revised the idle speed to 2100 to help relieve several problems, > such > as displacing the carburetors at idle while in flight. > > Determination: > Fatigue life of the version 2 cuff can be improved by decreasing the > clearance between the cuff and supporting outboard rulon bearing, > adding additional material to the cross section in the area of the > cuff that failed, replacing the hard coat anodizing with sulfuric acid > anodizing for corrosion protection and modifying the relief radius > (stress riser) in the corner of the thrust bearing flange. The version > 3 cuff incorporates these revisions. > > In addition to the above revisions, an increase in idle speed will > help stabilize the cuff flange stresses by maintaining a greater > centrifugal force on the propeller blade assembly. The reduction of > both torsional vibration and cuff flange rocking loads during engine > idling will significantly increase the resistance of the cuff to metal > fatigue and extend the useful service life. > > It does not appear that the Anphib application had any effect/cause on > the failed cuff. > > Fatigue life with the cuff will very from engine to engine depending > upon the level of torsional vibration that the propeller is subjected > to. Based on past flight experience and structural analysis the > following chart is the > recommended service life for cuff replacement. > > Cuff Service Life (In hours) > Engine Version 1 Version 2 Version 3 > Remarks > Rotax 912UL 750 1000 > 2000 See > engine operating limits > Rotax 912S 200* 700 1500 > See engine operating limits > Rotax 914 T 750 1000 > 2000 See > engine operating limits > NSI EA81 1500 2000 > 3000 No > limitations > NSI EA81 Turbo 1500 2000 3000 > No > limitations > Solar T-62 1500 2000 > 3000 3200 > RPM max prop speed > Garrett 150 1500 2000 > 3000 3200 > RPM max prop speed > Jabaru 3300 N/A** 1000 2000 > Still in > field /flight testing > * Based on worst case scenario. ** N/A: Not approved for this > engine/model. > > Mandatory Requirement: > When the cuff has reached its service life, it MUST BE REPLACED with > type version 3 before returning the CAP to service. The original cuff > should be discarded and no longer used for aircraft application. > > Page 3 of 4 > > Cuff Identification: > Identification of the cuff version can be made by measuring the inside > diameter hole located in the inboard end of the cuff. (Located just > inside of the blade rotation drive pin radius) The blade assembly > needs to be removed from the hub in order to expose the inboard > portion of the cuff for measurement. > Version 1 cuff has a 1.250" diameter hole. > Version 2 cuff has a 1.100" diameter hole. > Version 3 cuff has a .550" diameter hole. > > Repairs/Replacement Parts Required To Maintain/Return CAP 140 To Service: > Remove all blades from the hub and return to NSI. NSI will > replace: > 1. The existing (3) cuffs with a type version 3. > 2. Replace blade (6) retention collets. > 3. New (3) rulon cuff bearings. > 4. New O-ring grease seals. > 5. Adjust blade tracking to .180 Max. T.I.R. at blade tip. > 6. Adjust blade pitch differential between blades to Max. +/- .25 > degrees. (1.0" in from blade tip) > > Propeller Operating Limits: > All propellers should be balanced on the aircraft within the first 10 > hours > of service. > > Engine Operating Limits and Recommendations: (Rotax 912UL/912S/914T) > 1. 2100 RPM minimum idle speed. > 2. Establish cold start procedures that avoid operation of the engine > below > 2100 RPM. > 3. To reduce torsional stress to the entire propulsion system and air > frame, installation of Rotax optional "Slipper Clutch" in reduction > transmission. (Highly recommended by Rotax for all propeller combinations > and by NSI with use of the CAP Model 140) > > Cost: > All units affected by this AD are beyond the 2 year NSI > warranty period. Parts And Labor to complete the above repairs.... > $545.00 USD (Listed > above) > Plus shipping costs..... Paid by > customer > > Lead Time to Complete Repairs: > Typical service time, without blade replacement.... 7 to 10 > working days > With new blade replacement.. 30 to 60 > days > > Page 4 of 4 > > > advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:16 AM PST US From: Lyle Persels Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lyle Persels This is a little bit more aggressive than some of the suggestions, but I've found that a mild rubbing compound can be very effective. Lyle Persels W Duke wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke > >I have used bleach at half and full strength which helps. It will not completely remove it. Turned mine a lighter (less noticeable) magenta. Mine were on white polytone on top of the wing and disappeared with time. > >Maxwell > >Allan Aaron wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" > >In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a >couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the >plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an >ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers >with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the >stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. > >Thanks >Allan > > >Maxwell Duke >S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:13:34 PM PST US From: "Sterling" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" Diet Mountain Dew and baking soda worked well for me, on a gray buterate paint underneath my Avid wing. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lyle Persels" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lyle Persels > > This is a little bit more aggressive than some of the suggestions, but > I've found that a mild rubbing compound can be very effective. > > Lyle Persels > > W Duke wrote: > > >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke > > > >I have used bleach at half and full strength which helps. It will not completely remove it. Turned mine a lighter (less noticeable) magenta. Mine were on white polytone on top of the wing and disappeared with time. > > > >Maxwell > > > >Allan Aaron wrote: > >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" > > > >In anticipation of a long trip in my Avid last week I filled the tank a > >couple of days prior to departure. Well, the fuel expanded while the > >plane was in the hangar and dripped over and under the wing creating an > >ugly blue fuel stain. I tried using a range of different stain removers > >with no success. Does anyone have any hints about how to remove the > >stains? I figure I may have to repaint the wing if all else fails. > > > >Thanks > >Allan > > > > > >Maxwell Duke > >S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:26:45 PM PST US From: "Sterling" Subject: Kitfox-List: Mosler Motors $1.00 video --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" I just listed a Mosler Motors installation video on Ebay for $1.00. It shows the installation of a Mosler 82X on an Avid Sportster. For anyone interested in VW based engines, this would be a good "educational" video, even though Mosler is no longer in business. See it on Ebay by typing in item number 4537719007. Sterling Brooks Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch 5TA6, San Antonio Sectional ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:32 PM PST US From: paul wilson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson Hi Lynn, The Skystar setup does not provide a ground from the fuel neck. But I made the judgement that as long as I was redesigning the tank I would follow the standard convention that I would provide a ground to the airframe. Fuel neck to spar and spar to fuge. I all ready had the spar to fuge jumpers for the ground path for my nav lights anyway. There is a huge number of tech discussions on why and how to ground a fuel tank on the Internet and I got the links from this list. I read a few and decided it was prudent to ground the fuel neck. Since an FBO fueling hose has a grounded nozzle there is probably not an issue with the Skystar design. But then we are dealing with a non conductive tank which is a grey area in my mind. In any event now I have belt and suspenders system. Paul At 06:41 AM 3/21/05 -0500, you wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson > >Ooops, I don't see any reference in my manual about any "ground to >spar".....should there be? I've read here about the need to ground >while refueling, but wouldn't a ground to the spar just end up not >getting to the real ground anyway because of the tires? Or is this just >providing a convenient way for the fuel person to attach his ground >clamp? > >Lynn > >On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 08:16 PM, paul wilson wrote: > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson > > Don't > > forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:14:19 PM PST US From: "Sterling" Subject: Kitfox-List: Another $1.00 Orndorf Video on Ebay --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" Sorry to flood the list, but I just added the Orndorf SHEET METAL TOOLS video on Ebay and started the auction at $1.00. You can view this and the Mosler Aircraft Engine Video that I produced for Mosler in 1990 by typing in these item numbers in the respective order. Orndorf Sheet Metal Tools is 4537729428 Ordorf Pre-punched empennage video is 4537703612 Mosler Motors (VW based engine) is 4537719007 Thanks, Sterling Brooks Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch 5TA6, San Antonio Sectional ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:36:40 PM PST US From: Forfun3@aol.com Subject: Kitfox-List: EASY, Flaperon film removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com Film removal, easy done, soak towels with plain cheap paint thinner, leave towels laying on flaperons overnight, peels right off next day or so. Been there done that, tried every thing till this and made the job a piece of cake. Ralph Boling Vixen,235 lycoming ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:54:27 PM PST US From: jim_crane@mindspring.com Subject: Kitfox-List: Bottom False Ribs --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jim_crane@mindspring.com I'm building a Classic IV and need the bottom false ribs. Anyone have any you would like to get rid of? Thanks Jim Crane jim_crane@mindspring.com ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:13:08 PM PST US From: "Don Pearsall" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Bottom False Ribs --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" Jim, the Classic IV is still in production, so you can buy these from Skystar. They are just tiny pieces of 1/8" plywood so they should not be too expensive. Support your kit manufacturer! Don Pearsall -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim_crane@mindspring.com Subject: Kitfox-List: Bottom False Ribs --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jim_crane@mindspring.com I'm building a Classic IV and need the bottom false ribs. Anyone have any you would like to get rid of? Thanks Jim Crane jim_crane@mindspring.com ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 05:17:45 PM PST US From: AlbertaIV@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com In a message dated 3/20/2005 1:00:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, turboflyer@comcast.net writes: Yep its going to be fun, but cant have that rusted metal up there. Did you see the model A512 on page 165. It has a nice 3 inch entry so seeing into the tank when filling wont be such a pain. I could just make similar vent tubes like Sky star caps and use one of the mount holes. You know maybe thread one end of some small thick wall stainless and bend per old cap. There must be a good reason for the design being so tall and forward don't you think. I am not real keen on that vent check valve idea either. Once you cut the hole in the tank for the new caps, you "could" easily install a SS type bent alum vent just outboard of the hole and glassed into the top of the tank. Should be easy to do the necessary fiberglassing. I would consider glassing in a flared fitting in the tank so you could replace the bent vent tube if necessary. All kinds of options Don Smythe Classic IV w/ 582 ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 06:17:44 PM PST US From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" Sterling, That sounds good to me. I was a research director for a chemical company in Boulder, Colorado. After having a couple of ignitions and minor fires with alcohol in plastic tanks, we consulted with all the "experts" we could find and learned that, "Plastic doesn't conduct well enough to discharge fast enough to make a spark." This even after we described our fires to them. I suspect that it had something to do with the single digit humidity we often had in Colorado. This is not common in most of the country. ('Cept maybe where you are. ;-) ) I had stainless steel rods installed in all of our tanks. These reached all the way to the bottom on the tanks and then were grounded in a conventional manner. We had no more fires. One difference, the alcohol conducts much better than the gasoline. ??? Thanks for the reminder. I am getting some Downey and a spray bottle. Randy - in the Beautiful Black Hills and Badlands of South Dakota. PS. No more bad mouthin' Wall. . -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sterling Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" Not that this is specifically Kitfox related, but it addresses the issue I have with grounding a fiberglass fuel tank in an airplane that isn't made out of aluminum. I built an Avid Sportster 13 years ago and did some tricks to keep static from jumping when gassing the airplane... Below is what I sent to EAA and AOPA about 10 days ago. EAA has not responded and AOPA had no information to address this issue. But for now, these tips might be of help... I'm building a Pietenpol and am curently building my fuel tanks out of fiberglass. I've been doing some research and it seems that fiberglass (or any plastic type material) when introduced to friction in the air, absorbs an electrical charge--especially during winter operations in dry climates as we have here in the southwest. I'm concerned about static discharge and the resultant KABOOM that might happen when fueling my wooden airplane. Grounding a wooden airplane having fiberglass fuel tanks is nearly impossible. I'd like to bounce my ideas off someone at EAA concerning my plans to prevent a fire and if someone has a better method than I do, I'd really appreciate hearing back from EAA. I was a TV news reporter in El Paso many years ago and I covererd a story about a man who was burned badly when fueling a go cart after unloading it from a trailer onto the ground. He had a couple of plastic gas cans he hauled in the back of his pickup (lined with AstroTurf). The Fire Marshal (as my old clouded memory recalls) believed that when the man slid his plastic gas can out of the AstroTurf in the pickup bed, and then attempted to fuel the gocart, a static spark ignited the vapors. I don't want anything like this happening to me, after seeing this guy with burns all over his arms and face. As I finish the final layer of fiberglass on my fuel tanks, I plan to embed a copper ground line purchased from Aircraft Spruce into the final layer of the fiberglass, leading to the aluminum fuel neck that will be bonded into the fiberglass. The copper line will be run to all three fuel tanks and will terminate under the fuselage at or near the gear legs, so that I might have a way to ground the tanks and eliminate the static charge before introducing a plastic gas can to an aluminum filler neck on my airplane. Although I know it is a cardinal sin to gas an airplane using plastic gas cans, but many of us out here in the toolies have to ocassionally refuel using plastic cans (we have no choice when landing at remote airfields and fuel isn't available.. (except 10 miles away at a gas station in town...) An additional step I plan to use when fueling my flamable airplane.... I've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix, and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the Southwest, on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static after walking around on a dry surface. Many rolls of photograpic film have been ruined in dark rooms when spooling film out of cassette. The static can bee seen on the film after development. The Downey/water method eliminates the static charge, thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when treated with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a must on man-made textiles.) When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my Downy "formula" for spraying down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where I stand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic cans. (The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so to dry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading/unloading a plastic can! Try gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South Dakota... ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer's Last Stand in Montana... No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away having plastic "loaner" cans. That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water in my airplane. I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though. I wonder if there is an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane having fiberglass tanks other than the two methods I have described above? Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but sometimes we don't have a choice. Sterling Brooks (EAA 695308) Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch (5TA6, San Antonio Sectional) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson > > Ooops, I don't see any reference in my manual about any "ground to > spar".....should there be? I've read here about the need to ground > while refueling, but wouldn't a ground to the spar just end up not > getting to the real ground anyway because of the tires? Or is this just > providing a convenient way for the fuel person to attach his ground > clamp? > > Lynn > > On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 08:16 PM, paul wilson wrote: > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson > > Don't > > forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:08:03 PM PST US From: KITFOXZ@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Landing Light --> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com In a message dated 3/20/2005 4:58:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, pulsair@mindspring.com writes: John "Z" I'm installing a landing light so I can do some night flying this summer. When wiring, what do you think of piggy backing off the nav. light circuit/switch. Should I make a separate switch? Thanks, Jeff Classic IV Jeffrey Puls pulsair@mindspring.com Hello Jeff, I would not piggy back the landing light circuit feed even though your nav light wiring is more than heavy enough for the job. If you ever did blow the nav/landing light fuse for whatever reason I would not want to lose your nav lights at the same time. A separate fuse and switch would be my choice. John ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 07:16:49 PM PST US From: jareds Subject: Kitfox-List: 582 Crank Needed --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds What should have been a simple fix of water pump seal turned into crank bearings being trashed. 60 hrs on the engine but it's an old grey head so the age alone could have contributed. Any alternatives you guys might know of? > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 07:57:10 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills From: Lynn Matteson --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson I've been thinking about this grounding business, and have decided that I *could* run a ground wire from the filler neck to the spar, under a piece of finishing tape...my wings are covered, but not yet painted. I could disguise this as a "false rib" of sorts, I suppose, and then I would be safe for most static discharge issues, right? But I'm still confused about how this ground gets to be grounded. Is providing a ground from the filler neck to the airframe enough? Lynn On Monday, March 21, 2005, at 01:00 PM, paul wilson wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson > > Hi Lynn, > The Skystar setup does not provide a ground from the fuel neck. But I > made the judgement that as long as I was redesigning the tank I would > follow the standard convention that I would provide a ground to the > airframe. Fuel neck to spar and spar to fuge. I all ready had the spar > to > fuge jumpers for the ground path for my nav lights anyway. > There is a huge number of tech discussions on why and how to ground a > fuel tank on the Internet and I got the links from this list. I read a > few > and decided it was prudent to ground the fuel neck. Since an FBO > fueling > hose has a grounded nozzle there is probably not an issue with the > Skystar > design. But then we are dealing with a non conductive tank which is a > grey > area in my mind. In any event now I have belt and suspenders system. > Paul > > At 06:41 AM 3/21/05 -0500, you wrote: >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson >> >> Ooops, I don't see any reference in my manual about any "ground to >> spar".....should there be? I've read here about the need to ground >> while refueling, but wouldn't a ground to the spar just end up not >> getting to the real ground anyway because of the tires? Or is this >> just >> providing a convenient way for the fuel person to attach his ground >> clamp? >> >> Lynn >> >> On Sunday, March 20, 2005, at 08:16 PM, paul wilson wrote: >> >>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: paul wilson >>> Don't >>> forget to provide a ground from the flange to the spar. > > > _- > ======================================================================= > Download, > _- > ======================================================================= > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 08:29:57 PM PST US From: kurt schrader Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Lynn, I think you have a good idea in how to do it. You are right too about needing a ground connection to the ground from the plane. Most people attach a ground wire clipped to the engine exhaust and attached to a ground lug while refueling. If you are using tanks instead of a fuel truck or pump that has such a wire, you will have to make your own ground connection. Kurt S. --- Lynn Matteson wrote: > > I've been thinking about this grounding business, > and have decided that > I *could* run a ground wire from the filler neck to > the spar, under a > piece of finishing tape...my wings are covered, but > not yet painted. I > could disguise this as a "false rib" of sorts, I > suppose, and then I > would be safe for most static discharge issues, > right? But I'm still > confused about how this ground gets to be grounded. > Is providing a > ground from the filler neck to the airframe enough? > > Lynn ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 08:30:24 PM PST US From: Ceashman@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel Stain Removal --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com Pure Denatured Alcohol (same as shellac thinner or alcohol stove fuel). But first check to see that this doesn't mess with the paint system. If it doesn't. First wet rag the dust off the top of the wing. Then a good wet rag of denatured alcohol and wipe in thoroughly. You will see the old dry fuel stains dissolve. And the (white terry towel) become yellow stained. Maybe a second helping. Allow to dry out (evaporate) a couple of hours. Someone mentioned a carnuba wax. Good stuff. Cheers. Eric Ashman. ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:30 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" After much looking and touchy feely I went with the A36S non locking non vented. I and I was thinking about just what you described. In fact I have the tubes cut and threaded on one end and some support aluminum plates to mount it just as you said. I hadn't considered the bending or breaking off factor. I uses 60601T6 .065 wall tube and will tig it to the top plate and epoxy to the top of the tank. The other filler came with a cork gasket so I am considering the permatex #2 to seal it to the top of the fiberglass for easy maintenance in the far future. What do you think? Rick ...beyond pooped -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of AlbertaIV@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Changing out stock fuel fills --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com In a message dated 3/20/2005 1:00:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, turboflyer@comcast.net writes: Yep its going to be fun, but cant have that rusted metal up there. Did you see the model A512 on page 165. It has a nice 3 inch entry so seeing into the tank when filling wont be such a pain. I could just make similar vent tubes like Sky star caps and use one of the mount holes. You know maybe thread one end of some small thick wall stainless and bend per old cap. There must be a good reason for the design being so tall and forward don't you think. I am not real keen on that vent check valve idea either. Once you cut the hole in the tank for the new caps, you "could" easily install a SS type bent alum vent just outboard of the hole and glassed into the top of the tank. Should be easy to do the necessary fiberglassing. I would consider glassing in a flared fitting in the tank so you could replace the bent vent tube if necessary. All kinds of options Don Smythe Classic IV w/ 582 ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 09:27:16 PM PST US From: kurt schrader Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI Oli pressure --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Lance, Got a question for you. Is there a larger volume oil pump that will fit the EA-81 engines? I think that this could help hold the pressure up while providing better cooling on our turbo engines thru more circulation with a lighter weight oil. This might be better than using heavier oils for the turbo models. Kurt S. S-5/NSI EA-81 turbo ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:42:18 PM PST US From: aerocon1@telusplanet.net Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 Crank Needed --> Kitfox-List message posted by: aerocon1@telusplanet.net Hi, Whats the serial number of the engine? Rotax changed the crankshaft in the early 90's to bigger conrod journals. If you have really early 582 (with the small crankshaft) it would be preferable to replace the crankshaft with the newer "heavy duty" crankshaft as the early "small" cranks had a tendency to turf a rod bearing sometime between 130 and 160 hours. Some of the small cranks went the distance (300 hours+) but quite a few crapped out early in their life. Does your engine has the factory installed hydrodamper attached tot he flywheel? If you have the larger crank, and the center two bearings are in decent shape, the other bearings are readily replaceable. Its a lot less expensive the replacing the whole crankshaft. If you do replace the outer crankshaft bearings please use factory (Rotax) bearings as they have plastic bearing cages. After market bearings have metal cages that can lead to disaster if used. Feel free to give me a call if you want to discuss this in person. Good luck Bob Robertson Light Engine Services Ltd. Rotax Service Center Phone --TOLL FREE 1-866-418-4164 Quoting jareds : > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds > > What should have been a simple fix of water pump seal turned into crank > bearings being trashed. > 60 hrs on the engine but it's an old grey head so the age alone could > have contributed. > Any alternatives you guys might know of? > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 10:39:17 PM PST US Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 582 Crank Needed From: r.thomas@za.pwc.com 06:38:25, Serialize complete at 22/03/2005 06:38:25 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: r.thomas@za.pwc.com I purchased my KFII second hand, and the 582 fell into the serial number range of having the 'dodgey' crankshafts. (All grey head 582's before serial 4172665) I did about 20 hours on the plane, and then elected to change out the crank for a brand new one. The old crank and motor had a little over 300 hours, so I felt like I was on borrowed time. It was not a hugely expensive deal to change out the crank (approx $1500), and I feel a whole lot more comfortable when flying now. On inspection of the old crank, there were no visible signs that it would let go anytime soon, but me thinks this type of failure may not give much warning. You are welcome to have the old crank at no cost (it has been inhibited since removal), but would rather advise put in a new one. There is 1 school of thought that once you replaced this bit, (and a few others) you effectively zero hour the motor - which must add some value to your investment. Hope you come right Jareds. Regards Roger aerocon1@telusplanet.net Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com 22/03/2005 07:41 AM Please respond to kitfox-list@matronics.com To kitfox-list@matronics.com cc Subject Re: Kitfox-List: 582 Crank Needed Size: 5 Kb --> Kitfox-List message posted by: aerocon1@telusplanet.net Hi, Whats the serial number of the engine? Rotax changed the crankshaft in the early 90's to bigger conrod journals. If you have really early 582 (with the small crankshaft) it would be preferable to replace the crankshaft with the newer "heavy duty" crankshaft as the early "small" cranks had a tendency to turf a rod bearing sometime between 130 and 160 hours. Some of the small cranks went the distance (300 hours+) but quite a few crapped out early in their life. Does your engine has the factory installed hydrodamper attached tot he flywheel? If you have the larger crank, and the center two bearings are in decent shape, the other bearings are readily replaceable. Its a lot less expensive the replacing the whole crankshaft. If you do replace the outer crankshaft bearings please use factory (Rotax) bearings as they have plastic bearing cages. After market bearings have metal cages that can lead to disaster if used. Feel free to give me a call if you want to discuss this in person. Good luck Bob Robertson Light Engine Services Ltd. Rotax Service Center Phone --TOLL FREE 1-866-418-4164 Quoting jareds : > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds > > What should have been a simple fix of water pump seal turned into crank > bearings being trashed. > 60 hrs on the engine but it's an old grey head so the age alone could > have contributed. > Any alternatives you guys might know of? > > > > > > > > > > > > The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. 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