Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:45 AM - Noisy brakes (Michel Verheughe)
2. 07:02 AM - Re: Choke Lever (Lowell Fitt)
3. 07:24 AM - Re: Series 5 building sequence (Mike Couillard)
4. 07:24 AM - Re: Choke Lever (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy (Mike Couillard)
6. 07:42 AM - Re: Re: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy ()
7. 07:46 AM - Re: Noisy brakes (kurt schrader)
8. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy (Lowell Fitt)
9. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: Series 5 building sequence (kurt schrader)
10. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy (Hank Seidel)
11. 08:30 AM - Re: Re: Series 5 building sequence (W Duke)
12. 08:40 AM - Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? (Steve Maher)
13. 08:45 AM - Re: Choke Lever (Randy Daughenbaugh)
14. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: Series 5 building sequence (Randy Daughenbaugh)
15. 10:08 AM - Re: Re: Series 5 building sequence (Mike Couillard)
16. 10:38 AM - Re: Carb popoff (Daniel Aller)
17. 10:56 AM - Re:Lightweight Upholstery (Tinne maha)
18. 11:08 AM - Re: nosegear parts wanted (Raystuff7@aol.com)
19. 12:30 PM - Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? (kirk hull)
20. 12:30 PM - Re: Carb popoff (Dirk Slabbert)
21. 12:31 PM - Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? (Michel Verheughe)
22. 12:56 PM - Re: Re:Lightweight Upholstery (Tom Jones)
23. 01:07 PM - Re: Re:Lightweight Upholstery (Flybradair@cs.com)
24. 01:44 PM - Re: Noisy brakes (Michel Verheughe)
25. 01:44 PM - Re: Re: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy (Brett Walmsley)
26. 02:51 PM - Used Matco's (jdmcbean)
27. 03:10 PM - Re: Re: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy (Don Pearsall)
28. 03:55 PM - rudder petal reinforcements (Nelson J. Goguen)
29. 03:56 PM - Fw: rudder petal reinforcements (Nelson J. Goguen)
30. 04:03 PM - Kill Switch (Donna and Roger McConnell)
31. 04:53 PM - Re: Fw: rudder petal reinforcements (Ron)
32. 04:54 PM - Re: Kill Switch (Bob Robertson)
33. 05:07 PM - Re: Kill Switch (Fox5flyer)
34. 06:16 PM - Re: Annual Cameron Park Kitfox Fly-in (Thomas Lee)
35. 06:34 PM - Re: Carb popoff (Daniel Aller)
36. 08:26 PM - Re: Carb popoff (John King)
37. 09:04 PM - Re: nosegear parts wanted (Randy Daughenbaugh)
38. 09:14 PM - Re: Noisy brakes (kurt schrader)
39. 09:56 PM - leaky primer circuit (Marco Menezes)
40. 11:33 PM - Alaska 2005 #2 (SOURDOSTAN@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello guys,
Lately I have noticed a clicking noise which I first attributed to my tailwheel,
when I taxi on asphalt. But it appears to be the brakes because it happens only
when I slightly press them with my toes. I can't figure out what it is. Could
it be the caliper(s) jerking? I noticed that they are a bit loose but they
have always been like that. When I look at the brakes of my neighbour Rans S6,
those are not as loose as mine.
Has anybody experienced something similar?
Tanks in advance,
Michel
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Vic, this is exactly as the manual describes it. But, as Herb mentions, it
does have some effect on RPM at cruise. Just what it does in my airplane, I
don't recall, as I have only played with it, but there is an effect.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
>
> Hey Guys, I normally don't jump into the discussion unless I can be of
> help.
>
> Many of you have been call the enriching system of the 912 the "choke" as
> if
> it choked down the intake to enrichen the mixture for starting.
>
> As this non 912 owner remembers from helping a friend with his 912 it is
> not
> a "choke" ---- it is a fuel circuit that allows for a richer mixture for
> starting and will only function at the idle position. His enrichment
> "thing" works every time he uses it but only at idle. Once the engine
> starts and is running above idle it does nothing!
>
> I hope you-all take this as helpful info and not criticism.
>
> Vic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Raystuff7@aol.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
>>
>> No, don't bother to install the choke. I did, and never was able to start
>> the
>> engine. I primed it with a squirt-gun and it started every time. I called
>> Lockwood and asked them what's wrong. They said, nothing; the choke just
>> doesn't
>> work ! You need to buy a primer. I installed one, and now have no problem
>> starting it.
>>
>> I don't know why anybody puts out something that they know will not work.
>>
>> Ray Ward, Kitfox 6,, 912S engine.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Mike Couillard - TSI
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 6:30 PM
> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Series 5 building sequence
>
> I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help me unravel my
> "house of cards" regarding building sequence. I have a '98 series 5,
> about to install rudder pedal assembly (much thanks to a list member's
> tip I will do that with blind nuts to permit future removal if/when
> needed). But here's my question/dilemma.
>
> I understand that to install the lower clips that hold the firewall in
> place, the rudder pedals and floorboards will need to come out. If
> that's the case I hesitate to permanently install this assembly, which
> means that I won't install rudder cables until I can complete
> permanent installation of the pedals (at least that's my thought
> process right now). Which seems to put a lot of things on hold
> (without the cables complete I'm not sure it makes sense to finish
> center console installation, install the seat pan, etc. ) I'm feeling
> stuck here and I'm thinking it sure would be nice to install those
> clips and let things flow from there. Can these be purchased separate
> (or before) purchasing the entire firewall forward kit? Sure would be
> nice if that could be done now. I haven't even decided which engine
> package I'll go with so I don't know if these "clips" will vary from
> one engine installation to another. Is the firewall the same
> regardless of engine package selected?
>
> Another related question concerning the cables. Has anyone seen an
> advantage/accomplished cable installation using turnbuckles to
> facilitate tensioning the cables properly once the swageing is
> completed? Good idea/bad idea? I came upon the idea after reading a
> general kitplane building book, as a way to ease future maintenance
> efforts, while also making it easier to adjust cable tension once the
> cables are in. Would appreciate any thoughts out there on this one.
> The one thing that makes me wonder if this is a good idea is the way
> the pilots and copilots cables are interconnected on the Kitfox. If
> this is an idea with merit, where have folks installed the
> turnbuckles? I want them to be accessible after covering with fabric,
> etc.
>
> Thanks for any ideas you all may have on the above.
>
> Mike Couillard
> Colorado Springs
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
I find the choke effective in a number of ways. 1) For me the choke provided more
reliable and smoother starts on my 912ul and removed the primer and its attendent
tubing. 2) As mentioned previously, on unusually cold morning flights,
a little "choke" seems to make the engine smoother at cruise. 3) As a diagnostic
tool at cruise, easing out on the choke gives an indication of the appropriate
setting of the needle circlip: if the rpms increase the needle setting is
too lean, if the rpms decrease the needle setting is too rich, if no effect is
observed the setting is just right. Sounds like a fairy tale does it not?
John Kerr
N195KF
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
>
> Vic, this is exactly as the manual describes it. But, as Herb mentions, it
> does have some effect on RPM at cruise. Just what it does in my airplane, I
> don't recall, as I have only played with it, but there is an effect.
>
> Lowell
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vic Jacko"
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko"
> >
> > Hey Guys, I normally don't jump into the discussion unless I can be of
> > help.
> >
> > Many of you have been call the enriching system of the 912 the "choke" as
> > if
> > it choked down the intake to enrichen the mixture for starting.
> >
> > As this non 912 owner remembers from helping a friend with his 912 it is
> > not
> > a "choke" ---- it is a fuel circuit that allows for a richer mixture for
> > starting and will only function at the idle position. His enrichment
> > "thing" works every time he uses it but only at idle. Once the engine
> > starts and is running above idle it does nothing!
> >
> > I hope you-all take this as helpful info and not criticism.
> >
> > Vic
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
> >
> >
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
> >>
> >> No, don't bother to install the choke. I did, and never was able to start
> >> the
> >> engine. I primed it with a squirt-gun and it started every time. I called
> >> Lockwood and asked them what's wrong. They said, nothing; the choke just
> >> doesn't
> >> work ! You need to buy a primer. I installed one, and now have no problem
> >> starting it.
> >>
> >> I don't know why anybody puts out something that they know will not work.
> >>
> >> Ray Ward, Kitfox 6,, 912S engine.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
I find the choke effective in a number of ways.1) For me the choke provided more
reliable and smoother starts on my 912ul and removed the primer and its attendent
tubing. 2) As mentioned previously, on unusually cold morning flights, a
little "choke" seems to make the engine smoother at cruise. 3) As a diagnostic
tool at cruise, easing out on the choke gives an indication of the appropriate
setting of the needle circlip: if the rpms increase the needle setting is too
lean, if the rpms decrease the needle setting is too rich, if no effect is
observed the setting is just right. Sounds like a fairy tale does it not?
John Kerr
N195KF
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <LCFITT@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Vic, this is exactly as the manual describes it. But, as Herb mentions, it
does have some effect on RPM at cruise. Just what it does in my airplane, I
don't recall, as I have only played with it, but there is an effect.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <VICWJ@EARTHLINK.NET>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <VICWJ@EARTHLINK.NET>
Hey Guys, I normally don't jump into the discussion unless I can be of
help.
Many of you have been call the enriching syste
m of the 912 the "choke" as
if
it choked down the intake to enrichen the mixture for starting.
As this non 912 owner remembers from helping a friend with his 912 it is
not
a "choke" ---- it is a fuel circuit that allows for a richer mixture for
starting and will only function at the idle position. His enrichment
"thing" works every time he uses it but only at idle. Once the engine
starts and is running above idle it does nothing!
I hope you-all take this as helpful info and not criticism.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAYSTUFF7@AOL.COM>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
&
gt; No, don't bother to install the choke. I did, and never was able to start
the
engine. I primed it with a squirt-gun and it started every time. I called
Lockwood and asked them what's wrong. They said, nothing; the choke just
doesn't
work ! You need to buy a primer. I installed one, and now have no problem
starting it.
I don't know why anybody puts out something that they know will not work.
Ray Ward, Kitfox 6,, 912S engine.
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Mike Couillard
> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:37 PM
> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>
> Thought I caught some discussion on the list some weeks past on
> adhesives that are easy to use (1 to 1 mix ratio, for example) and if
> possible not so prone to cause the adverse skin reactions I was
> hearing about.
>
> My 98 kit has expired on the 3M epoxies (way past 2 years old) and I'm
> wondering what to replace them with. I see Aircraft Spruce carries a
> number of adhesives that look suitable (including Poly Epoxy
> Structural Epoxy System, T88, and Hexcel; Hexcel looks good from the
> standpoint of a 1:1 mix ratio and apparently low irritation potential)
> and was wondering what some of the experience might be with some of
> these and other alternatives to the 3M epoxies (seems to me 3M Scotch
> Weld seems pricey anyways and I'm looking for easier and safer if
> possible). Another important factor might be shelf life as 2 years
> seems pretty short, but I suppose I could just buy in quantities as I
> go and be fine.
>
> Appreciate any thoughts you all may have!
>
> Mike Couillard
> Series 5 (only 98% to go) Colorado Springs
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
Why not just get some more Hysol from SkyStar? They typically have it in stock.
Ron
>From: Mike Couillard <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>Date: Mon Apr 04 09:18:27 CDT 2005
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>
>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Mike Couillard
>> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:37 PM
>> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
>> Subject: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>>
>> Thought I caught some discussion on the list some weeks past on
>> adhesives that are easy to use (1 to 1 mix ratio, for example) and if
>> possible not so prone to cause the adverse skin reactions I was
>> hearing about.
>>
>> My 98 kit has expired on the 3M epoxies (way past 2 years old) and I'm
>> wondering what to replace them with. I see Aircraft Spruce carries a
>> number of adhesives that look suitable (including Poly Epoxy
>> Structural Epoxy System, T88, and Hexcel; Hexcel looks good from the
>> standpoint of a 1:1 mix ratio and apparently low irritation potential)
>> and was wondering what some of the experience might be with some of
>> these and other alternatives to the 3M epoxies (seems to me 3M Scotch
>> Weld seems pricey anyways and I'm looking for easier and safer if
>> possible). Another important factor might be shelf life as 2 years
>> seems pretty short, but I suppose I could just buy in quantities as I
>> go and be fine.
>>
>> Appreciate any thoughts you all may have!
>>
>> Mike Couillard
>> Series 5 (only 98% to go) Colorado Springs
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Noisy brakes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sounds normal to me Michel. I've heard many plane
brakes clicking as they taxi. The only time when they
are really quiet is not moving, or when braking more
heavily.
This is what happens when you get a quieter engine and
relax enough to hear these things. Or when you fly at
night and hear lots of things you never noticed
before....
Just preflight them well so you are confident when you
hear the noise.
Kurt S.
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
>
> Hello guys,
> Lately I have noticed a clicking noise which I first
> attributed to my tailwheel, when I taxi on asphalt.
> But it appears to be the brakes because it happens
> only when I slightly press them with my toes. I
> can't figure out what it is. Could it be the
> caliper(s) jerking? I noticed that they are a bit
> loose but they have always been like that. When I
> look at the brakes of my neighbour Rans S6, those
> are not as loose as mine.
>
> Has anybody experienced something similar?
>
> Tanks in advance,
>
> Michel
__________________________________
http://baseball.fantasysports.yahoo.com/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
I am just beginning to help a neighbor with a Lancair project and the whole
thing is glued together with Hysol. We were at the factory Wednesday and I
asked about the allergy issue and they have used Hysol and their selected
epoxy, can't remember the name right now, because of low alergenicity.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
>
> Why not just get some more Hysol from SkyStar? They typically have it in
> stock.
>
> Ron
>
>>From: Mike Couillard <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>>Date: Mon Apr 04 09:18:27 CDT 2005
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
>><Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>>
>>
>>> _____________________________________________
>>> From: Mike Couillard
>>> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:37 PM
>>> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
>>> Subject: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>>>
>>> Thought I caught some discussion on the list some weeks past on
>>> adhesives that are easy to use (1 to 1 mix ratio, for example) and if
>>> possible not so prone to cause the adverse skin reactions I was
>>> hearing about.
>>>
>>> My 98 kit has expired on the 3M epoxies (way past 2 years old) and I'm
>>> wondering what to replace them with. I see Aircraft Spruce carries a
>>> number of adhesives that look suitable (including Poly Epoxy
>>> Structural Epoxy System, T88, and Hexcel; Hexcel looks good from the
>>> standpoint of a 1:1 mix ratio and apparently low irritation potential)
>>> and was wondering what some of the experience might be with some of
>>> these and other alternatives to the 3M epoxies (seems to me 3M Scotch
>>> Weld seems pricey anyways and I'm looking for easier and safer if
>>> possible). Another important factor might be shelf life as 2 years
>>> seems pretty short, but I suppose I could just buy in quantities as I
>>> go and be fine.
>>>
>>> Appreciate any thoughts you all may have!
>>>
>>> Mike Couillard
>>> Series 5 (only 98% to go) Colorado Springs
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Mike,
I didn't have the firewall clips for my 5, even in the
instructions. What I did was use longer peddle bolts
and drilled holes in the firewall below them. I used
locknuts on these bolts to hold the firewall bottom up
flush. The rest of my firewall is held in place by
the engine bolts.
In sequence, I use 2 sheet metal screws to initially
hold the firewall to the front of the plane. There
are 2 welded tabs already provided for that on the
fuesalage near the front center. Then I bolt the
engine on to hold the firewall firmly in place. Last
I use the nuts to hold the bottom flush with the
longer peddle bolts.
I didn't use turnbuckles on mine, but thought of them.
Most of the ones I saw were on the tail end where you
can get at them easily. They adjust both left or both
right peddles together that way. You have to use the
peddle adjusters or get under the counsel to adjust
them seperately.
I did replace the flat bar peddle cable links with all
those little holes in them with stainless metal.
Those flat bars rusted solid right away on my plane.
Kurt S.
--- Mike Couillard <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
wrote:
>
> > I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help
> me unravel my "house of cards" regarding building
> sequence..........
__________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Hank Seidel <hank@hankseidel.com>
Hi,
I started out with Scotch-Weld and am now using Hysol which I purchased
from Skystar. I much prefer the Hysol. The only "disadvantage" I found
is that it cures quicker. This is only an issue if you have a job that
is going to take a while to complete. I find that it has a pot life of
about an hour so you might be mixing a second batch. Be careful with
larger batches as it can go exothermic if you are not careful. It also
requires less flox as it is stiffer from the start. Cheaper also. I did
not have a skin reaction to either.
Good luck with your project!
Hank
On Apr 4, 2005, at 9:18 AM, Mike Couillard wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
> <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>
>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Mike Couillard
>> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:37 PM
>> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
>> Subject: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>>
>> Thought I caught some discussion on the list some weeks past on
>> adhesives that are easy to use (1 to 1 mix ratio, for example) and if
>> possible not so prone to cause the adverse skin reactions I was
>> hearing about.
>>
>> My 98 kit has expired on the 3M epoxies (way past 2 years old) and I'm
>> wondering what to replace them with. I see Aircraft Spruce carries a
>> number of adhesives that look suitable (including Poly Epoxy
>> Structural Epoxy System, T88, and Hexcel; Hexcel looks good from the
>> standpoint of a 1:1 mix ratio and apparently low irritation potential)
>> and was wondering what some of the experience might be with some of
>> these and other alternatives to the 3M epoxies (seems to me 3M Scotch
>> Weld seems pricey anyways and I'm looking for easier and safer if
>> possible). Another important factor might be shelf life as 2 years
>> seems pretty short, but I suppose I could just buy in quantities as I
>> go and be fine.
>>
>> Appreciate any thoughts you all may have!
>>
>> Mike Couillard
>> Series 5 (only 98% to go) Colorado Springs
>>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
I thought about turnbuckles but could not make them work externally at the tail
because of the faired tail surfaces.
Maxwell
kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
Mike,
I didn't have the firewall clips for my 5, even in the
instructions. What I did was use longer peddle bolts
and drilled holes in the firewall below them. I used
locknuts on these bolts to hold the firewall bottom up
flush. The rest of my firewall is held in place by
the engine bolts.
In sequence, I use 2 sheet metal screws to initially
hold the firewall to the front of the plane. There
are 2 welded tabs already provided for that on the
fuesalage near the front center. Then I bolt the
engine on to hold the firewall firmly in place. Last
I use the nuts to hold the bottom flush with the
longer peddle bolts.
I didn't use turnbuckles on mine, but thought of them.
Most of the ones I saw were on the tail end where you
can get at them easily. They adjust both left or both
right peddles together that way. You have to use the
peddle adjusters or get under the counsel to adjust
them seperately.
I did replace the flat bar peddle cable links with all
those little holes in them with stainless metal.
Those flat bars rusted solid right away on my plane.
Kurt S.
--- Mike Couillard
wrote:
>
> > I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help
> me unravel my "house of cards" regarding building
> sequence..........
__________________________________
---------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Maher <lilabner_45@yahoo.com>
Yes, that's indeed how squelches work. But my puzzlement comes from the
fact that the King KX-170B in the Cessna, squelches out the noise just
fine while letting the tower and other planes thru, while the handheld
VXA-120 and 210 don't.
What's a mother to do? :
)
Steve Maher
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
> <michel@online.no>
>
> Steve Maher wrote:
> > Well, I guess not on this radio. The Owner's Manual talks about the
> > squelch setting, and says that a higher number means that a
> stronger
> > signal will be required to open the squelch. So I guess that's what
> I
> > want. And it ain't enough! >:-O
>
> Er, yes, Steve. But the squelch is not your problem, radio frequency
> interference, is. It work like this: You antenna feeds a signal to
> your tuner,
> which cuts signals above and under your selected frequency. What's
> left is
> whatever is on that frequency: someone transmitting or ... background
> noise.
> You can never pick electro-magnetic wave signals without a background
> noise,
> which comes from ... outer space!
> Your squelch button simply cuts the amplitude of the signal at
> whatever you set
> it. The idea is to cut out the background noise without cutting out
> transmitting signals. The proper adjustment (and what I do, whenever
> I start a
> radio, maritime or aviation) is to lower the squelch until I hear
> noise, the up
> again, to the threshold when it cuts.
>
> I understand that you get noise all the way up to "setting 8" on your
> radio,
> which is the highest possible. Well, the noise you hear then is not
> coming from
> space, it is most probably generated by either your plane's
> electrical circuit
> or something in the neighbourhood, like a radio amateur
> experimenting.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
John,
Great diagnostic tool!
Thanks,
Randy
Do not archive
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kerrjohna@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
I find the choke effective in a number of ways. 1) For me the choke provided
more reliable and smoother starts on my 912ul and removed the primer and its
attendent tubing. 2) As mentioned previously, on unusually cold morning
flights, a little "choke" seems to make the engine smoother at cruise. 3) As
a diagnostic tool at cruise, easing out on the choke gives an indication of
the appropriate setting of the needle circlip: if the rpms increase the
needle setting is too lean, if the rpms decrease the needle setting is too
rich, if no effect is observed the setting is just right. Sounds like a
fairy tale does it not?
John Kerr
N195KF
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
>
> Vic, this is exactly as the manual describes it. But, as Herb mentions, it
> does have some effect on RPM at cruise. Just what it does in my airplane,
I
> don't recall, as I have only played with it, but there is an effect.
>
> Lowell
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vic Jacko"
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko"
> >
> > Hey Guys, I normally don't jump into the discussion unless I can be of
> > help.
> >
> > Many of you have been call the enriching system of the 912 the "choke"
as
> > if
> > it choked down the intake to enrichen the mixture for starting.
> >
> > As this non 912 owner remembers from helping a friend with his 912 it is
> > not
> > a "choke" ---- it is a fuel circuit that allows for a richer mixture for
> > starting and will only function at the idle position. His enrichment
> > "thing" works every time he uses it but only at idle. Once the engine
> > starts and is running above idle it does nothing!
> >
> > I hope you-all take this as helpful info and not criticism.
> >
> > Vic
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
> >
> >
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
> >>
> >> No, don't bother to install the choke. I did, and never was able to
start
> >> the
> >> engine. I primed it with a squirt-gun and it started every time. I
called
> >> Lockwood and asked them what's wrong. They said, nothing; the choke
just
> >> doesn't
> >> work ! You need to buy a primer. I installed one, and now have no
problem
> >> starting it.
> >>
> >> I don't know why anybody puts out something that they know will not
work.
> >>
> >> Ray Ward, Kitfox 6,, 912S engine.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
I find the choke effective in a number of ways.1) For me the choke provided
more reliable and smoother starts on my 912ul and removed the primer and its
attendent tubing. 2) As mentioned previously, on unusually cold morning
flights, a little "choke" seems to make the engine smoother at cruise. 3) As
a diagnostic tool at cruise, easing out on the choke gives an indication of
the appropriate setting of the needle circlip: if the rpms increase the
needle setting is too lean, if the rpms decrease the needle setting is too
rich, if no effect is observed the setting is just right. Sounds like a
fairy tale does it not?
John Kerr
N195KF
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <LCFITT@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Vic, this is exactly as the manual describes it. But, as Herb mentions, it
does have some effect on RPM at cruise. Just what it does in my airplane, I
don't recall, as I have only played with it, but there is an effect.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <VICWJ@EARTHLINK.NET>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <VICWJ@EARTHLINK.NET>
Hey Guys, I normally don't jump into the discussion unless I can be of
help.
Many of you have been call the enriching syste
m of the 912 the "choke" as
if
it choked down the intake to enrichen the mixture for starting.
As this non 912 owner remembers from helping a friend with his 912 it is
not
a "choke" ---- it is a fuel circuit that allows for a richer mixture for
starting and will only function at the idle position. His enrichment
"thing" works every time he uses it but only at idle. Once the engine
starts and is running above idle it does nothing!
I hope you-all take this as helpful info and not criticism.
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAYSTUFF7@AOL.COM>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Choke Lever
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
&
gt; No, don't bother to install the choke. I did, and never was able to
start
the
engine. I primed it with a squirt-gun and it started every time. I called
Lockwood and asked them what's wrong. They said, nothing; the choke just
doesn't
work ! You need to buy a primer. I installed one, and now have no problem
starting it.
I don't know why anybody puts out something that they know will not work.
Ray Ward, Kitfox 6,, 912S engine.
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Mike,
Do you have the adjustable pedals option? If you do, the turnbuckle
approach is irrelevant.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Couillard
Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Mike Couillard - TSI
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 6:30 PM
> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Series 5 building sequence
>
> I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help me unravel my
> "house of cards" regarding building sequence. I have a '98 series 5,
> about to install rudder pedal assembly (much thanks to a list member's
> tip I will do that with blind nuts to permit future removal if/when
> needed). But here's my question/dilemma.
>
> I understand that to install the lower clips that hold the firewall in
> place, the rudder pedals and floorboards will need to come out. If
> that's the case I hesitate to permanently install this assembly, which
> means that I won't install rudder cables until I can complete
> permanent installation of the pedals (at least that's my thought
> process right now). Which seems to put a lot of things on hold
> (without the cables complete I'm not sure it makes sense to finish
> center console installation, install the seat pan, etc. ) I'm feeling
> stuck here and I'm thinking it sure would be nice to install those
> clips and let things flow from there. Can these be purchased separate
> (or before) purchasing the entire firewall forward kit? Sure would be
> nice if that could be done now. I haven't even decided which engine
> package I'll go with so I don't know if these "clips" will vary from
> one engine installation to another. Is the firewall the same
> regardless of engine package selected?
>
> Another related question concerning the cables. Has anyone seen an
> advantage/accomplished cable installation using turnbuckles to
> facilitate tensioning the cables properly once the swageing is
> completed? Good idea/bad idea? I came upon the idea after reading a
> general kitplane building book, as a way to ease future maintenance
> efforts, while also making it easier to adjust cable tension once the
> cables are in. Would appreciate any thoughts out there on this one.
> The one thing that makes me wonder if this is a good idea is the way
> the pilots and copilots cables are interconnected on the Kitfox. If
> this is an idea with merit, where have folks installed the
> turnbuckles? I want them to be accessible after covering with fabric,
> etc.
>
> Thanks for any ideas you all may have on the above.
>
> Mike Couillard
> Colorado Springs
Message 15
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| Subject: | RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Yes I do. And I was wondering the same, but perhaps I need more
explanation. Turnbuckles won't work anywhere in this system?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Daughenbaugh
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh"
--> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Mike,
Do you have the adjustable pedals option? If you do, the turnbuckle
approach is irrelevant.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Couillard
Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Mike Couillard - TSI
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 6:30 PM
> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Series 5 building sequence
>
> I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help me unravel my
> "house of cards" regarding building sequence. I have a '98 series 5,
> about to install rudder pedal assembly (much thanks to a list member's
> tip I will do that with blind nuts to permit future removal if/when
> needed). But here's my question/dilemma.
>
> I understand that to install the lower clips that hold the firewall in
> place, the rudder pedals and floorboards will need to come out. If
> that's the case I hesitate to permanently install this assembly, which
> means that I won't install rudder cables until I can complete
> permanent installation of the pedals (at least that's my thought
> process right now). Which seems to put a lot of things on hold
> (without the cables complete I'm not sure it makes sense to finish
> center console installation, install the seat pan, etc. ) I'm feeling
> stuck here and I'm thinking it sure would be nice to install those
> clips and let things flow from there. Can these be purchased separate
> (or before) purchasing the entire firewall forward kit? Sure would be
> nice if that could be done now. I haven't even decided which engine
> package I'll go with so I don't know if these "clips" will vary from
> one engine installation to another. Is the firewall the same
> regardless of engine package selected?
>
> Another related question concerning the cables. Has anyone seen an
> advantage/accomplished cable installation using turnbuckles to
> facilitate tensioning the cables properly once the swageing is
> completed? Good idea/bad idea? I came upon the idea after reading a
> general kitplane building book, as a way to ease future maintenance
> efforts, while also making it easier to adjust cable tension once the
> cables are in. Would appreciate any thoughts out there on this one.
> The one thing that makes me wonder if this is a good idea is the way
> the pilots and copilots cables are interconnected on the Kitfox. If
> this is an idea with merit, where have folks installed the
> turnbuckles? I want them to be accessible after covering with fabric,
> etc.
>
> Thanks for any ideas you all may have on the above.
>
> Mike Couillard
> Colorado Springs
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
Hello John,
Thank you, I'll try it your way,even though Lockwood told me my biggest
problem is my carbs being moved seven inches outboard on the 912S. I believe
there are many out there keeping there carbs on with out the starter and
slipper clutch upgrade.
Thanks again,Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "John King" <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>
> Daniel,
>
> I assume you are referring to me. My procedure for start up is pretty
> simple. The throttle is set for 2000 rpm. I know that since that is the
> rpm that I set the throttle at during engine shut down (about 1/4 inch
> out). Two full squirts of the primer, then turn on the master and
> starter, she starts right up. I immediately adjust the throttle to steady
> out the engine at about 2500 rpm. I never use the choke, it is left in
> the off position.
>
> My primer is not the normal one provided by SkyStar. It is like the ones
> used on Cessna's and other certified aircraft. It cost about $80 and I
> ordered it through Spruce. I never did like the idea of using plastic 1/8
> inch tubing that SkyStar provides forward of the firewall. I installed
> all aluminum tubing with an AN type bulkhead mounted T-connector.
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
>
>
> Daniel Aller wrote:
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller"
>><daller1@zoominternet.net>
>>
>>Thanks for your input,Randy,Floran,Tom,Allan,and John.
>>
>>Allen,
>>I have the side carb springs. Are you saying you had the problem until
>>you installed the slipper clutch? Lockwood told me the slipper clutch may
>>not fix my problem because my carbs are moved seven inches out board.
>>
>>John,
>>Would you explain your procedure when you prim and how much throttle you
>>use?
>>
>>Randy,
>>I have a primer no choke.
>>
>>Dan Aller
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re:Lightweight Upholstery |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Hi Don,
Thanks for the post & the info. I've tried sending to knightair@lv.rmci.net
twice now.....both times came back as un-deliverable. I'm really interested
in hearing what Sam has to offer. Do you have another way of contacting him
that I can try?
Thanks,
Grant
Grant,
Welcome to the Kitfox List! I am sure you will get lots of help to whatever
question you post.
As for upholstery, have you ruled out the Skystar seats? If case you don't
know, Skystar does sell the seat upholstery, and it is pretty light.
There is an upholstery specialist here named Sam Knight of Knight's
Upholstery. He specializes in Kitfox seats and panels. Contact him at
knightair@lv.rmci.net. I am sure he could make you whatever you want.
I have a mixed opinion on the firewall blanket. When it is new, it looks
nice. But have getting oil stained, etc, it starts to look ratty. Also, it
is easy to tear and otherwise damage.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tinne maha
Subject: Kitfox-List: Light Weight Upholstery
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Hello Kitfox list,
I am a new here, but am rounding 3rd base on completion of my S-5
Taildragger. Looking for help on 3 subjects:
1) Wiring the Avionics: I've been on the aeroelectric list for a while (&
it has been VERY helpful), but haven't found a good source of info for how
to wire my simple VFR panel: Garmin GNC 250 XL Panel mounted GPS/Comm, King
KT-76A Transponder, Flightcom Intercom with Ipod mini for backsound.
2) Upholstery: I am hoping someone can tell me where I can find some very
light weight (but still durable) upholstery for a S-5 Kitfox.
3) Firewall Blanket: Also looking for input on a firewall blanket: Are they
helpful for heat trasfer? Noise? Do you recommend for or against them? Do
you have a source?
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
San Luis Obispo, CA
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: nosegear parts wanted |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
Randy,
The 912S drives a 72" variable pitch prop(vernier adjustment) made by GSX, I
think. My speed checks after tweaking the fairings, were done by GPS
triangular course at 1000 ft, max power 5600, and crank in pitch at wot to load
the
engine to max power.
Ed Swearingen told me it is hard to get speed by adding horsepower; drag
reduction is the key.
Beyond all of Skystar's fairings, I streamlined the landing gear. A belly pan
and gear legs are faired and enclosed in .016 sheet. The entire landing
gear, except the bottom of the tires are enclosed. Do a speed check. then wrap
and
tape some cardboard fairings, about 7" chord to your gear legs. Go fly it
again, and see the difference.
In addition, cooling drag was reduced by eliminating the 3-4" cowl opening
that hangs below the cabin floor. I cut and re-shaped the cowling so that it
comes out even with the cabin floor. This, in effect, reduces the airplane's
frontal area by about 4 X 25" = 100sq". If you do this, you must add a rounded
fairing , about 2" radius right at the bottom edge of the firewall so that the
air will stick to the cabin floor rather than tumble out the opening. The
opening is a hole cut about 3-4" just ahead of the bottom of the firewall.
In all, I added about a dozen little fairings, like stabilizer brace, the
little torque tubes exiting the fuselage for the flapperons (4-5") are easily
covered by the extra streamlined strut fairing material that came in the kit,
etc. Just look the plane over, and if you see a finger of drag, try to eliminate
it. The challenge is fun, and not only gives more speed, but longer legs going
cross-country with the increased fuel mileage..
Let me know how it works for you. I probably won't be on this chat line much
longer, but my address is: Ray Ward, PO Box 72, Beasley, Tex. 77417
Ray Eard
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Handheld radio with good squelch? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kirk hull" <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
Remember that your hand held does not have the same antenna as the panel
mount nor does it have a ground plane. If you are wanting to use a handheld
in your fox, as I do , try installing an external antenna with a ground
plane.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Maher
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Handheld radio with good squelch?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Maher <lilabner_45@yahoo.com>
Yes, that's indeed how squelches work. But my puzzlement comes from the
fact that the King KX-170B in the Cessna, squelches out the noise just
fine while letting the tower and other planes thru, while the handheld
VXA-120 and 210 don't.
What's a mother to do? :
)
Steve Maher
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
> <michel@online.no>
>
> Steve Maher wrote:
> > Well, I guess not on this radio. The Owner's Manual talks about the
> > squelch setting, and says that a higher number means that a
> stronger
> > signal will be required to open the squelch. So I guess that's what
> I
> > want. And it ain't enough! >:-O
>
> Er, yes, Steve. But the squelch is not your problem, radio frequency
> interference, is. It work like this: You antenna feeds a signal to
> your tuner,
> which cuts signals above and under your selected frequency. What's
> left is
> whatever is on that frequency: someone transmitting or ... background
> noise.
> You can never pick electro-magnetic wave signals without a background
> noise,
> which comes from ... outer space!
> Your squelch button simply cuts the amplitude of the signal at
> whatever you set
> it. The idea is to cut out the background noise without cutting out
> transmitting signals. The proper adjustment (and what I do, whenever
> I start a
> radio, maritime or aviation) is to lower the squelch until I hear
> noise, the up
> again, to the threshold when it cuts.
>
> I understand that you get noise all the way up to "setting 8" on your
> radio,
> which is the highest possible. Well, the noise you hear then is not
> coming from
> space, it is most probably generated by either your plane's
> electrical circuit
> or something in the neighbourhood, like a radio amateur
> experimenting.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
Message 20
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dirk Slabbert" <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
John, the prop acts as a flywheel, the slipper cluth eliminates the gyroscopic
forces needed to swing a high compression engine, like the 912S.
This way the engine can kick back in the opposite direction, intake valve open,
carb butterfly closed, it pops off the carb, more so when the engine is cold
and the mix lean.
The high compression of the 912S stops the lightweight starter in its tracks, what
do you have? lean mix on a cold engine precombustion kick back carb pop
off.
Same goes for shut down, throttle closed, lean mix , no inhertia combined with
critical valve timing, same thing.
4 Solutions : remove the slipper clutch, fit a heavy duty starter,use leaded feul,
fit a primer if you are in cold conditions.
Hope this helps,
Dirk.
----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel Aller
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
Hello John,
Thank you, I'll try it your way,even though Lockwood told me my biggest
problem is my carbs being moved seven inches outboard on the 912S. I believe
there are many out there keeping there carbs on with out the starter and
slipper clutch upgrade.
Thanks again,Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "John King" <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>
> Daniel,
>
> I assume you are referring to me. My procedure for start up is pretty
> simple. The throttle is set for 2000 rpm. I know that since that is the
> rpm that I set the throttle at during engine shut down (about 1/4 inch
> out). Two full squirts of the primer, then turn on the master and
> starter, she starts right up. I immediately adjust the throttle to steady
> out the engine at about 2500 rpm. I never use the choke, it is left in
> the off position.
>
> My primer is not the normal one provided by SkyStar. It is like the ones
> used on Cessna's and other certified aircraft. It cost about $80 and I
> ordered it through Spruce. I never did like the idea of using plastic 1/8
> inch tubing that SkyStar provides forward of the firewall. I installed
> all aluminum tubing with an AN type bulkhead mounted T-connector.
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
>
>
> Daniel Aller wrote:
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller"
>><daller1@zoominternet.net>
>>
>>Thanks for your input,Randy,Floran,Tom,Allan,and John.
>>
>>Allen,
>>I have the side carb springs. Are you saying you had the problem until
>>you installed the slipper clutch? Lockwood told me the slipper clutch may
>>not fix my problem because my carbs are moved seven inches out board.
>>
>>John,
>>Would you explain your procedure when you prim and how much throttle you
>>use?
>>
>>Randy,
>>I have a primer no choke.
>>
>>Dan Aller
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Steve Maher wrote:
> Yes, that's indeed how squelches work. But my puzzlement comes from the
> fact that the King KX-170B in the Cessna, squelches out the noise just
> fine while letting the tower and other planes thru, while the handheld
> VXA-120 and 210 don't.
Hum, it can only mean one thing, Steve: Your handheld radios pick an airborne
radio interference that is say, radiating from the engine and/or instruments,
while the bulkhead mounted King has an outside antenna that is protected by the
fuselage that works as a Faraday cage.
That's the only explanation I can come with.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re:Lightweight Upholstery |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <tomfromlapine@peoplepc.com>
Grant,
Below is a copy of a message sam knight sent to the list In Feb. 04.
Tom Jones
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sam Knight <knightair@lv.rmci.net>
Thank you for your inquiry about Kitfox upholstery products and request for
photos. Samples of fabrics will be provided upon request. Please indicate
what type fabric you are interested in and what color range.
As I mentioned before, I have several interior upholstery products for other
models of kitplanes. Prices and photos are available.
If you have any further questions or comments or if you were unable to read
any attachment, please let me know. You may contact me at telephone number
(702) 207-6681 or e-mail: knightair@lv.rmci.net. If you e-mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention.
As I have attached the price listing and other information below, be sure to
scroll down to find this information.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
__________________
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
503 Sunset Villa Drive
Las Vegas, Nevada 89110
Phone: (702) 207-6681
Fax: (702) 207-4780
"KITFOX" UPHOLSTERY PRODUCTS
VIXEN/
MODELS I, II, MODEL IV/ SERIES 5
MODEL III SPEEDSTER SERIES 6
LITE2 (SQ'D) MODEL IV CS
Seats (*) - - - - - - - $ 275.00 - - - - $ 275.00 - - - $ 375.00
(No Logo) Cordura Cordura Cordura
- - - $ 455.00
Velour
- - - $ 455.00
Tweeds
Optional Baggage
Area Cover - - - - - - STANDARD - - - - STANDARD - - - $ 75.00
Cordura
- - - $ 95.00
Velour
(*) For Seats: Add $ 20.00 for Extended Baggage Area Cover
Floor Carpet - - - - - $ 92.00 - - - - $ 92.00 - - - $ 92.00
Kick Panels - - - - - - $ 62.50 - - - - $ 62.50 - - - $ 65.00
Control Stick
Covers - - - - - - - - N/A - - - - $ 65.00 - - - $ 65.00
Console Cover - - - - - N/A - - - - N/A - - BY THE YARD
Dash Cover - - - - - - BY THE YARD - - BY THE YARD BY THE YARD
Side Panels - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $ 38.50
Cordura
- - - $ 49.00
Velour
- - - $ 49.00
Tweeds
Baggage Sacks - - - - - $ 42.00 - - - - $ 90.00 - - - $ 90.00
Cargo Bay - - - - - - - N/A - - - - N/A - - - $ 225.00
Side Windows (Set) - - $ 35.00 - - - - $ 35.00 - - - N/A
Fuel Site Windows (Set) $ 35.00 - - - - $ 35.00 - - - N/A
Door Panels
Velour - - - - - - - N/A - - - - N/A - - - $ 157.00
Cordura - - - - - - - N/A - - - - N/A - - - $ 147.00
Tweeds - - - - - - - N/A - - - - N/A - - - $ 147.00
Cabin Cover - - - - - - $ 155.00 - - - - $ 155.00 - - - $ 155.00
Tow Covers
(Short) - - - - - - - - $ 57.50 - - - - $ 57.50 - - - N/A
Tow Covers
(Extended Back) - - - - $ 72.50 - - - - $ 72.50 - - - $ 72.50
Back Pads - - - - - - - $ 55.00 - - - - $ 55.00 - - - $ 65.00
Velour
- - - $ 55.00
Cordura
- - - $ 65.00
Tweeds
Booster Cushion - - - - $ 40.00 - - - - $ 40.00 - CALL FOR INFO
Kitfox Lite Seats (No Logo)
2" Seats - - - $ 135.00 - Cordura
$ 155.00 - Velour
$ 155.00 - Tweeds
3" Seats - - - $ 155.00 - Cordura
$ 175.00 - Velour
$ 175.00 - Tweeds
Kitfox Lite Cabin Cover - $ 155.00
Kitfox Lite Tail Tow Pads - $ 65.00
Kitfox Lite Baggage Sacks - $ 75.00
Carpet By the Yard - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $ 20.00
Cordura By the Yard - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $ 17.50
Velour By the Yard - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $ 39.50
Tweeds By the Yard - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $ 39.50
Leather - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Call for Information
________________
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
503 Sunset Villa Drive
Las Vegas, Nevada 89110
Phone: (702) 207-6681
Fax: (702) 207-4780
"KITFOX" INFORMATION
SEATS for Model I, II, III, and IV, Lite2 Squared, are a one-piece seat that
velcros in place and are light weight. They come in Cordura fabric only, in
any color combination. Check seat chart for color combination. They also
come with a baggage area cover with flap for easy access to baggage sacks.
The flap has clear pockets sewn on for your documents.
SEATS for Model IV CS, Series 5, Series 6, and Vixen are a four-cushion seat
that velcros into place. They come with fitted pieces that you glue to the
fiberglass seat on center and sides. The bottom and back rest cushions can
be done to any thickness necessary for your comfort for an additional cost.
These seats can be done in Cordura, velour, leather, or tweed materials.
There is an optional baggage area cover for Model IV and earlier Series 5
manufactured before November 1, 1994. The baggage area cover can be done in
Cordura or velour fabrics only.
FLOOR CARPETS are bound on edges with Velcro sewn on. They come with
adhesive Velcro that you stick to the floor of the plane. They have heel
pads sewn on the carpet. I need to send you patterns for Models I, II, III,
and IV for proper fit.
KICK PANELS cover the side of the plane next to the floor area and are made
out of carpet that are bound on the edges with Velcro sewn on the back side.
There is also a separate piece of adhesive Velcro to adhere the panels to
the plane. Series 5 panels come with a clear pocket for your documents.
BAGGAGE SACKS and cargo bays are made of Cordura fabric and come with
adhesive Velcro to adhere to plane.
DOOR PANELS are made out of Lexan panel with one-fourth inch foam with your
choice of fabric. They have pockets sewn on both pilot and co-pilot sides
and glue into place. A pattern needs to be sent to you for proper fit.
CABIN COVERS are made of Evolution 4 fabric and are water repellent and will
not rot or mildew. Nylon straps are sewn on the cover with Velcro sewn on
the ends. The straps wrap around the fuselage and wings to secure the cabin
cover in place. A storage bag is included for the cabin cover. The weight
of the cabin cover and storage bag is approximately three pounds. The
dimensions are approximately 16" X 12" X 3". Colors include shadow gray as
the standard color with optional colors of desert tan and harbor blue.
___________________
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS INC.
503 Sunset Villa Drive
Las Vegas, Nevada 89110
Phone: (702) 207-6681
Fax: (702) 207-4780
UPHOLSTERY COLOR CHART
CORDURA
1A - Beige
2A - Yellow
2B - Sunshine Yellow
3A - Orange
4A - Red
5A - Burgundy
6A - Green
6B - Forest Green
7A - Dark Brown
8A - Royal Blue
9A - Gray
10A - Black
VELOUR
V1 - Beige
V2 - Red
V3 - Maroon
V4 - Black
V5 - Gray
V6 - Charcoal
V7 - Royal Blue
V7A- Dark Blue
V8 - Ocean Blue
V9 - Forest Green
V10 - Turquoise
V11 - Mauve
V12 - Brown
TWEEDS
Black
Blue
Gray
Sand
Turquoise
Green
Burgundy
Brown
Teal
CARPET
Black
Red
Blue
Forest Green
Green
Gray
Charcoal
Brown
Beige
Burgundy
LEATHER - Call for Colors Available
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
503 Sunset Villa Drive
Las Vegas, Nevada 89110
Phone: (702) 207-6681
Fax: (702) 207-4780
O R D E R F O R M
To place your order, please call KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC., at
telephone number (702) 207-6681, between the hours of 9:00 A.M. and 5:00
P.M. (Pacific Standard Time), Monday through Friday. For your convenience,
you may also copy this order form and mail or fax it to me. When your order
is received, I will call you to review the options and confirm your total
charges (including any applicable shipping and handling charges). For this
purpose, please include your daytime and evening telephone numbers.
Thank you!
SOLD TO:
Name: __________________________________________________________
Address: _______________________________________________________
City: ________________ State: ______________ Zip: __________
Telephone: (Day) ________________ (Eves) ____________________
SHIP TO:
Name: __________________________________________________________
Address: _______________________________________________________
(No Post Office Boxes)
City: ________________ State: ______________ Zip: ___________
Telephone: (Day) ________________ (Eves) ____________________
PAYMENT: Money Order _____ Cashier's Check _____
Personal Check _______ MAKE PAYABLE TO SAM KNIGHT.
Model of Plane / Quantity / Description / Color / Price / Total
NO REFUNDS Subtotal _______ FOR
EXPERIMENTAL AIRCRAFT ONLY Sales Tax* _______
PRODUCTS DO NOT MEET FAA Shipping and Handling Costs _______
CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS Total _______
*Nevada residents add 7.50% sales tax.
Shipping costs vary and will be included on all orders. To avoid delays,
please do not send payment prior to receiving a confirmed total for your
order. Upholstery products and prices for all items are subject to change.
At 06:50 AM 2/10/2004 EST, you wrote:
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tc9008@aol.com
>>
>>I have a 1997 kitfox model 4 . Do you have any pics of your covers and
>>interiors?
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re:Lightweight Upholstery |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Flybradair@cs.com
Hi Grant,
Try Sam at (702) 207-6681--I ordered some replacement pieces from him
about 2 months ago.
Brad Martin
Wichita
N232WB
In a message dated 4/4/05 12:57:20 PM Central Daylight Time,
tinnemaha@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the post &the info. I've tried sending to knightair@lv.rmci.net
> twice now.....both times came back as un-deliverable. I'm really interested
>
> in hearing what Sam has to offer. Do you have another way of contacting him
>
> that I can try?
>
> Thanks,
> Grant
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Noisy brakes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
kurt schrader wrote:
> This is what happens when you get a quieter engine and
> relax enough to hear these things.
Good thinking, Kurt, I didn't think of that but ... yes, the noise appeared
when the Jabiru came in and, indeed, it is much, much quieter than the 582,
especially at taxi speed.
> Or when you fly at night and hear lots of things you never noticed
> before....
Argh! This is my big sorrow, Kurt, I'd love to fly at night, but my Norwegian
microlight license doesn't allow me to. I love e.g. sailing at night, when
everything gets different and mystical. It would be my dream to fly a Kitfox at
night ... but wait a second, you can! Er, are you willing to have me visiting
you so that we can fly together at night? Pleeeease! I'll be a nice boy, I'll
even let you use my viking helmet! Pleeeease! :-)
> Just preflight them well so you are confident when you hear the noise.
Of course, I am very careful with preflight, Kurt. I love to see and feel with
my fingers every part of the plane. I figured out that this is the best way to
know if my lady is ok. And ... it's sensual too! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
HYSOL 9460.
Can be bought in the 2 qt size from industrial supply places ($70).
Works great, no alergic reaction, clean up with alcohol, 50/50 by weight
or volume. Need to transfer to a container that is easier to reseal than
the can (qt wide mouth mason jar).
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
> <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>
>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Mike Couillard
>> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:37 PM
>> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
>> Subject: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>>
>> Thought I caught some discussion on the list some weeks past on
>> adhesives that are easy to use (1 to 1 mix ratio, for example) and if
>> possible not so prone to cause the adverse skin reactions I was
>> hearing about.
>>
>> My 98 kit has expired on the 3M epoxies (way past 2 years old) and I'm
>> wondering what to replace them with. I see Aircraft Spruce carries a
>> number of adhesives that look suitable (including Poly Epoxy
>> Structural Epoxy System, T88, and Hexcel; Hexcel looks good from the
>> standpoint of a 1:1 mix ratio and apparently low irritation potential)
>> and was wondering what some of the experience might be with some of
>> these and other alternatives to the 3M epoxies (seems to me 3M Scotch
>> Weld seems pricey anyways and I'm looking for easier and safer if
>> possible). Another important factor might be shelf life as 2 years
>> seems pretty short, but I suppose I could just buy in quantities as I
>> go and be fine.
>>
>> Appreciate any thoughts you all may have!
>>
>> Mike Couillard
>> Series 5 (only 98% to go) Colorado Springs
>>
>
>
Message 26
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Just a note for anyone looking for a used set of Matco 600x6 wheels.
Matco 600x6 wheels and brakes.
Axles for Grove Gear.
AirTrac 600x6 tires and tubes
Total time was 80 hours when removed.
Any interest please contact me offline at sportplane@cableone.net
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com <http://www.sportplanellc.com/>
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
Do Not Archive
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
John McBean sells Hysol. Check out his website at www.sportplanellc.com. We
should all use the vendors on this list as much as possible, including
buying parts from Skystar.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brett Walmsley
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
HYSOL 9460.
Can be bought in the 2 qt size from industrial supply places ($70).
Works great, no alergic reaction, clean up with alcohol, 50/50 by weight
or volume. Need to transfer to a container that is easier to reseal than
the can (qt wide mouth mason jar).
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
> <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>
>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Mike Couillard
>> Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 4:37 PM
>> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
>> Subject: Structural Adhesives/Epoxy
>>
>> Thought I caught some discussion on the list some weeks past on
>> adhesives that are easy to use (1 to 1 mix ratio, for example) and if
>> possible not so prone to cause the adverse skin reactions I was
>> hearing about.
>>
>> My 98 kit has expired on the 3M epoxies (way past 2 years old) and I'm
>> wondering what to replace them with. I see Aircraft Spruce carries a
>> number of adhesives that look suitable (including Poly Epoxy
>> Structural Epoxy System, T88, and Hexcel; Hexcel looks good from the
>> standpoint of a 1:1 mix ratio and apparently low irritation potential)
>> and was wondering what some of the experience might be with some of
>> these and other alternatives to the 3M epoxies (seems to me 3M Scotch
>> Weld seems pricey anyways and I'm looking for easier and safer if
>> possible). Another important factor might be shelf life as 2 years
>> seems pretty short, but I suppose I could just buy in quantities as I
>> go and be fine.
>>
>> Appreciate any thoughts you all may have!
>>
>> Mike Couillard
>> Series 5 (only 98% to go) Colorado Springs
>>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | rudder petal reinforcements |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Nelson J. Goguen" <mino@rcn.com>
Hey guys, After reading, on this list, about some rudder petals cracking at the weld joint, I thought I would strengthen mine without removing them from the plane. To remove them I would have had to drill out all the rivets that secures the firewall to the bottom of the fuselarge. Then remove the lock nuts that hold the rudder petal mounting brackets. I would have to get reinforcements welded, repaint or powder coate and reinstall. Anyway, I made a pattern (my original trade "pattern maker") and had aluminum castings made. They look like a split pipe tee with the bottom partially removed to clear the floor boards. Two small cap screws will hold them in place while the structual adhesive cures. The vertical arms are then riveted. Pictures at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Fly safe,
Nelsonl
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Fw: rudder petal reinforcements |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Nelson J. Goguen" <mino@rcn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Nelson J. Goguen
Subject: rudder petal reinforcements
Hey guys, After reading, on this list, about some rudder petals cracking at the weld joint, I thought I would strengthen mine without removing them from the plane. To remove them I would have had to drill out all the rivets that secures the firewall to the bottom of the fuselarge. Then remove the lock nuts that hold the rudder petal mounting brackets. I would have to get reinforcements welded, repaint or powder coate and reinstall. Anyway, I made a pattern (my original trade "pattern maker") and had aluminum castings made. They look like a split pipe tee with the bottom partially removed to clear the floor boards. Two small cap screws will hold them in place while the structual adhesive cures. The vertical arms are then riveted. Pictures at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Fly safe,
Nelsonl
Message 30
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
I need some technical advice from someone who has 'been there done that'.
I'm installing a 912s in my model 7 and was wanting to run a kill switch so
I can turn the engine over without the mags being hot. I have a sp/st toggle
switch that was supplied with the kit. Can I run both P leads from the mags
to this switch and then to ground or should I use a dp/st switch? These P
leads also go to the ignition switch but I want the option of grounding the
mags and still turning the engine over. I just worry if there will be a
problem with both leads going through one switch or should I use a double
pole single throw switch? Advise Please
Roger Mac
S7 with 912S at last
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: rudder petal reinforcements |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I can't find the pictures of Nelson's rudder pedal repair. Has anyone found
them?
Ron N55KF DO NOT ARCHIVE
. Pictures at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Nelsonl
Message 32
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
Roger,
Here is what we do on all our 912 installations. Works great and is simple.
1. We use a key switch to acting like a master switch only. This simply
connects/disconnects power to the power buss bar. You could also use a good
quality toggle switch for this.
2. We use 2 "single throw-double pole-momentary switches for the mags (one
switch for each circuit). These switches are "down" for closed (kills the
ignition) center is open (run) and momentary up also kills the engine but
this position of for mag checks only... This makes sure that the engine
returns to a "run" condition after doing a mag check... There is no chance
of accidentally leaving either mag in a closed situation while running the
engine. The switch we use is manufactured by Cole-Hersee (part no. 55088)
and can be purchased at any NAPA store.
We run each of the grounding cables (P-leads) up to the switch. These go the
bottom terminals on the switches.
We also run a separate ground from the engine up to the switch. We use
RG-74AU coax for this purpose. We use the shielding as the ground wire.
The grounds attach to the center terminals on the switches. We run a
jumper from the center terminal to the top terminal so the ignition will
ground out when the switch is placed into the monetary on mode.
We also jumper each of the switches (upper terminals) together and then to
an airframe ground. Now...If any single ground wire breaks the engine can
still be shut down. You would have to have two ground wires broken before
you would have an accidental live mag situation.
I know this might sound complicated, but it's quite simple.... If you want I
can e-mail you a wiring diagram. of the switches.
I hope this helps
Bob Robertson
Light Engine Services Ltd.
Rotax Service Center
St. Albert, Ab. T8N 1M8
Ph: (Tech Support) 1-780-418-4164
Ph: (Order Line) 1-866-418-4164 (TOLL FREE)
www.rtx-av-engines.ca
---- Original Message -----
From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kill Switch
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
<rdmac@swbell.net>
>
> I need some technical advice from someone who has 'been there done that'.
> I'm installing a 912s in my model 7 and was wanting to run a kill switch
so
> I can turn the engine over without the mags being hot. I have a sp/st
toggle
> switch that was supplied with the kit. Can I run both P leads from the
mags
> to this switch and then to ground or should I use a dp/st switch? These P
> leads also go to the ignition switch but I want the option of grounding
the
> mags and still turning the engine over. I just worry if there will be a
> problem with both leads going through one switch or should I use a double
> pole single throw switch? Advise Please
>
> Roger Mac
>
> S7 with 912S at last
>
>
Message 33
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Why not use two switches?
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kill Switch
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
<rdmac@swbell.net>
>
> I need some technical advice from someone who has 'been there done that'.
> I'm installing a 912s in my model 7 and was wanting to run a kill switch
so
> I can turn the engine over without the mags being hot. I have a sp/st
toggle
> switch that was supplied with the kit. Can I run both P leads from the
mags
> to this switch and then to ground or should I use a dp/st switch? These P
> leads also go to the ignition switch but I want the option of grounding
the
> mags and still turning the engine over. I just worry if there will be a
> problem with both leads going through one switch or should I use a double
> pole single throw switch? Advise Please
>
> Roger Mac
>
> S7 with 912S at last
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Annual Cameron Park Kitfox Fly-in |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas Lee <thomasleekf@comcast.net>
Hi Lowell,
I hope I am able to join the big event this year.
thomas.
>
>
Message 35
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
Hello Dirk Slabbert,
Thank you for the info,it was my request not John's.
I like your 4 solutions: I use leaded fuel, a primer, no slipper clutch and
I will try to do without the starter for now, because I need to rework the
firewall before I can install the heavy duty starter.
Thanks to you and others I am much more informed.
Dan Aller
N239DA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dirk Slabbert" <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dirk Slabbert"
> <dirkslabbert@telkomsa.net>
>
> John, the prop acts as a flywheel, the slipper cluth eliminates the
> gyroscopic forces needed to swing a high compression engine, like the
> 912S.
> This way the engine can kick back in the opposite direction, intake valve
> open, carb butterfly closed, it pops off the carb, more so when the engine
> is cold and the mix lean.
>
> The high compression of the 912S stops the lightweight starter in its
> tracks, what do you have? lean mix on a cold engine precombustion kick
> back carb pop off.
>
> Same goes for shut down, throttle closed, lean mix , no inhertia combined
> with critical valve timing, same thing.
>
> 4 Solutions : remove the slipper clutch, fit a heavy duty starter,use
> leaded feul, fit a primer if you are in cold conditions.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Dirk.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Daniel Aller
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 7:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller"
> <daller1@zoominternet.net>
>
> Hello John,
> Thank you, I'll try it your way,even though Lockwood told me my biggest
> problem is my carbs being moved seven inches outboard on the 912S. I
> believe
> there are many out there keeping there carbs on with out the starter and
> slipper clutch upgrade.
> Thanks again,Dan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John King" <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Daniel,
> >
> > I assume you are referring to me. My procedure for start up is pretty
> > simple. The throttle is set for 2000 rpm. I know that since that is
> the
> > rpm that I set the throttle at during engine shut down (about 1/4 inch
> > out). Two full squirts of the primer, then turn on the master and
> > starter, she starts right up. I immediately adjust the throttle to
> steady
> > out the engine at about 2500 rpm. I never use the choke, it is left in
> > the off position.
> >
> > My primer is not the normal one provided by SkyStar. It is like the
> ones
> > used on Cessna's and other certified aircraft. It cost about $80 and I
> > ordered it through Spruce. I never did like the idea of using plastic
> 1/8
> > inch tubing that SkyStar provides forward of the firewall. I installed
> > all aluminum tubing with an AN type bulkhead mounted T-connector.
> >
> > --
> > John King
> > Warrenton, VA
> >
> >
> > Daniel Aller wrote:
> >
> >>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller"
> >><daller1@zoominternet.net>
> >>
> >>Thanks for your input,Randy,Floran,Tom,Allan,and John.
> >>
> >>Allen,
> >>I have the side carb springs. Are you saying you had the problem until
> >>you installed the slipper clutch? Lockwood told me the slipper clutch
> may
> >>not fix my problem because my carbs are moved seven inches out board.
> >>
> >>John,
> >>Would you explain your procedure when you prim and how much throttle
> you
> >>use?
> >>
> >>Randy,
> >>I have a primer no choke.
> >>
> >>Dan Aller
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 36
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Daniel,
For the first 400 hours on my 912S I did not have the slipper clutch nor
the heavy duty starter. My car manifolds were reversed so my carbs are
also seven inches further outboard as defined by SkyStar. I never had
my carbs shake lose nor experience any excessive vibration on start-up
or shut-down. I also always used the primer on cold start-up.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Daniel Aller wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
>
>Hello John,
>Thank you, I'll try it your way,even though Lockwood told me my biggest
>problem is my carbs being moved seven inches outboard on the 912S. I believe
>there are many out there keeping there carbs on with out the starter and
>slipper clutch upgrade.
>Thanks again,Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John King" <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Carb popoff
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Daniel,
>>
>>I assume you are referring to me. My procedure for start up is pretty
>>simple. The throttle is set for 2000 rpm. I know that since that is the
>>rpm that I set the throttle at during engine shut down (about 1/4 inch
>>out). Two full squirts of the primer, then turn on the master and
>>starter, she starts right up. I immediately adjust the throttle to steady
>>out the engine at about 2500 rpm. I never use the choke, it is left in
>>the off position.
>>
>>My primer is not the normal one provided by SkyStar. It is like the ones
>>used on Cessna's and other certified aircraft. It cost about $80 and I
>>ordered it through Spruce. I never did like the idea of using plastic 1/8
>>inch tubing that SkyStar provides forward of the firewall. I installed
>>all aluminum tubing with an AN type bulkhead mounted T-connector.
>>
>>--
>>John King
>>Warrenton, VA
>>
Message 37
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| Subject: | nosegear parts wanted |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Ray,
Thanks! You have given me more to think about. I agree that drag reduction
is key.
I like rough fields and big tires so that is a big drag problem. But I can
still work on other things. And dream about a variable pitch prop.
Can you post some pictures?
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Raystuff7@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: nosegear parts wanted
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Raystuff7@aol.com
Randy,
The 912S drives a 72" variable pitch prop(vernier adjustment) made by GSX, I
think. My speed checks after tweaking the fairings, were done by GPS
triangular course at 1000 ft, max power 5600, and crank in pitch at wot to
load the
engine to max power.
Ed Swearingen told me it is hard to get speed by adding horsepower; drag
reduction is the key.
Beyond all of Skystar's fairings, I streamlined the landing gear. A belly
pan
and gear legs are faired and enclosed in .016 sheet. The entire landing
gear, except the bottom of the tires are enclosed. Do a speed check. then
wrap and
tape some cardboard fairings, about 7" chord to your gear legs. Go fly it
again, and see the difference.
In addition, cooling drag was reduced by eliminating the 3-4" cowl opening
that hangs below the cabin floor. I cut and re-shaped the cowling so that it
comes out even with the cabin floor. This, in effect, reduces the airplane's
frontal area by about 4 X 25" = 100sq". If you do this, you must add a
rounded
fairing , about 2" radius right at the bottom edge of the firewall so that
the
air will stick to the cabin floor rather than tumble out the opening. The
opening is a hole cut about 3-4" just ahead of the bottom of the firewall.
In all, I added about a dozen little fairings, like stabilizer brace, the
little torque tubes exiting the fuselage for the flapperons (4-5") are
easily
covered by the extra streamlined strut fairing material that came in the
kit,
etc. Just look the plane over, and if you see a finger of drag, try to
eliminate
it. The challenge is fun, and not only gives more speed, but longer legs
going
cross-country with the increased fuel mileage..
Let me know how it works for you. I probably won't be on this chat line much
longer, but my address is: Ray Ward, PO Box 72, Beasley, Tex. 77417
Ray Eard
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Noisy brakes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Michel,
It is amazing what we hear when we are paying
attention, even over all the airplane noise. After
doing some of my aggressive flight testing near the
end, a rubber washer I used for my camera mount came
loose. I didn't know what it was, but after landing I
thought my tail was about to fall off. It was just
the washer bouncing on the fabric back there. Really
had me worried until I found it.
Wait until I move to Florida before you come over for
the night flying. Maybe we can watch a rocket launch
from the cape too. I'll have to put tennis balls on
your helmit horns to use it though. I sit up closer
to the canopy than you. :-(
An important lesson I learned and still don't use
often enough is called "see the bolt". When you do a
preflight, it is easy to see what you are looking for
instead of what is there.
Looking over the FAA inspector's shoulders when my
plane was to be signed off, I saw all kinds of little
things I had missed while building. Looking at it a
1000 times while building, I did not "see" what was
really there anymore. They missed them too, but I
immediately corrected what I saw after they left.
Same when you preflight. Easy to miss reality and see
what you expect. But if you keep saying as a command
"see the pin, see the bolt, see the nut..." for each
item on preflight, you really do see things you had
missed before. Good to practice.
Kurt S.
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
>
> kurt schrader wrote:
> > This is what happens when you get a quieter engine
> > and relax enough to hear these things.
>
> Good thinking, Kurt, I didn't think of that but ...
> yes, the noise appeared when the Jabiru came in
> and, indeed, it is much, much quieter than the 582,
> especially at taxi speed.
>
> > Or when you fly at night and hear lots of things
> > you never noticed before....
>
> Argh! This is my big sorrow, Kurt, I'd love to fly
> at night, but my Norwegian microlight license
doesn't
> allow me to. I love e.g. sailing at night, when
> everything gets different and mystical. It would be
> my dream to fly a Kitfox at night ... but wait a
> second, you can! Er, are you willing to have me
> visiting you so that we can fly together at night?
> Pleeeease! I'll be a nice boy, I'll even let you
> use my viking helmet! Pleeeease! :-)
>
> > Just preflight them well so you are confident when
> you hear the noise.
>
> Of course, I am very careful with preflight, Kurt. I
> love to see and feel with my fingers every part of
> the plane. I figured out that this is the best way
to
> know if my lady is ok. And ... it's sensual too! :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
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Message 39
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| Subject: | leaky primer circuit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
I'm getting a continuous fuel flow through the primer circuit, dripping out the
carbs on my 582, whenever fuel shut-off is opened. This happens whether I pump
the primer or not. Obviously, something's amis.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Marco Menezes
KF-II N99KX
---------------------------------
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terryblack274tb@yahoo.com, robert.mcclintock@sbcglobal.n
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: SOURDOSTAN@aol.com
Alaska 2005 #2
We are fast approaching departure time for flying our Kitfoxes to Alaska in
June, now a little over two months away. I will continue to send notes of
interest only to those who are thinking about going on the trip, so let me know
real soon if you are interested. We now have four or five confirmed pilots=20and
looking for more.
This note is the second in a series about our Kitfox trip to Alaska in June
2005. The emphasis of this note is to get you started on gaining information
about the trip -flying conditions, what to expect, and how to go about planning
for the trip. This information may interest you, whether you plan on making
the trip this year or at another time. One of the best resources is the
=E2=80=9CLogbook=E2=80=9D published by the Alaska Airmen=E2=80=99s Association.
I recently received my
copy in the mail and haven=E2=80=99t been able to put it down, even though I know
quite
a bit about the subject. You can either buy the book from the Alaska Airmen=E2=80=99s
association for $35 or the best deal is to join the Alaska Airmen=E2=80=99s
Association for $35. As a member they will send you a copy of the Logbook free,
plus a
year=E2=80=99s membership, which includes a bi-monthly newsletter and a packet
of
miscellaneous information. Part of this packet is information about flying=20in
Canada, including customs information for entering Canada and returning to the
United States. (I will prepare an information note about customs and Canadian
flying later.)
The Logbook is intended to provide information for general aviation pilots
about flying to and in Alaska. It provides a way to gather a cross-section of
information into an easily accessible and understandable format. Sections of the
Logbook include weather, terrain, legalities of flying in Alaska, being
prepared for the flight, contacts with the Alaskan wildlife,survival, other
reference materials, flying in Canada, descriptions of the various routes to and
within Alaska including airport diagrams, and side trips.
To discover more about joining the Alaska Airmen=E2=80=99s Association and purchasing
their items, visit their Website at www.alaskaairmen.com or call toll-free
800-464-7030. Please mention my name when joining.
Stan Specht
sourdostan@aol.com
Kitfox Model IV Speedster =E2=80=9CColumbine=E2=80=9D
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