Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:08 AM - Re: leaky primer circuit (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
2. 04:13 AM - Re: rudder petal reinforcements (Fox5flyer)
3. 06:34 AM - Re: Annual Cameron Park Kitfox Fly-in (Lowell Fitt)
4. 07:24 AM - Re: Kill Switch (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: leaky primer circuit (Marco Menezes)
6. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Series 5 building sequence (Randy Daughenbaugh)
7. 08:31 AM - Re: Alaska 2005 #2 (Thomas Johnston)
8. 08:37 AM - Re: Re: Series 5 building sequence (Mike Couillard)
9. 10:08 AM - Re: Kill Switch (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
10. 10:10 AM - Re: Carb popoff (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
11. 11:01 AM - Re: Kill Switch (Randy Daughenbaugh)
12. 12:01 PM - Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? (Steve Maher)
13. 01:33 PM - Re: Noisy brakes (Michel Verheughe)
14. 01:50 PM - Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? (Michel Verheughe)
15. 08:33 PM - Re: Carb popoff (John King)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: leaky primer circuit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 4/5/2005 3:59:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
msm_9949@yahoo.com writes:
I'm getting a continuous fuel flow through the primer circuit, dripping out
the carbs on my 582, whenever fuel shut-off is opened. This happens whether I
pump the primer or not. Obviously, something's amis.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Marco Menezes
KF-II N99KX
Sounds like a cut "O" ring around the piston of the primer pump or something
of that nature. I think the piston on mine has a collar that uncrews and
the piston pulls out.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: rudder petal reinforcements |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Hi Nelson. Unless I'm missing it your post doesn't seem to be getting
posted on photoshare. Try going to Sportflight.com/uploads. That's our
(Kitfox List) archive of photos. Easy to upload and lots of stuff to browse
through by category.
Deke
List Administrator
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Nelson J. Goguen" <mino@rcn.com>
> Hey guys, After reading, on this list, about some rudder petals cracking
at the weld joint, I thought I would strengthen mine without removing them
from the plane. To remove them I would have had to drill out all the rivets
that secures the firewall to the bottom of the fuselarge. Then remove the
lock nuts that hold the rudder petal mounting brackets. I would have to
get reinforcements welded, repaint or powder coate and reinstall. Anyway, I
made a pattern (my original trade "pattern maker") and had aluminum castings
made. They look like a split pipe tee with the bottom partially removed to
clear the floor boards. Two small cap screws will hold them in place while
the structual adhesive cures. The vertical arms are then riveted.
Pictures at http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> Fly safe,
>
> Nelsonl
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Annual Cameron Park Kitfox Fly-in |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Thomas,
We hope you can make it.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Lee" <thomasleekf@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Annual Cameron Park Kitfox Fly-in
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas Lee <thomasleekf@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Lowell,
>
> I hope I am able to join the big event this year.
>
> thomas.
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
Bob, I am intrigued by your 912 wiring, could you send me a diagram.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson"
>
> Roger,
> Here is what we do on all our 912 installations. Works great and is simple.
> 1. We use a key switch to acting like a master switch only. This simply
> connects/disconnects power to the power buss bar. You could also use a good
> quality toggle switch for this.
> 2. We use 2 "single throw-double pole-momentary switches for the mags (one
> switch for each circuit). These switches are "down" for closed (kills the
> ignition) center is open (run) and momentary up also kills the engine but
> this position of for mag checks only... This makes sure that the engine
> returns to a "run" condition after doing a mag check... There is no chance
> of accidentally leaving either mag in a closed situation while running the
> engine. The switch we use is manufactured by Cole-Hersee (part no. 55088)
> and can be purchased at any NAPA store.
>
> We run each of the grounding cables (P-leads) up to the switch. These go the
> bottom terminals on the switches.
> We also run a separate ground from the engine up to the switch. We use
> RG-74AU coax for this purpose. We use the shielding as the ground wire.
> The grounds attach to the center terminals on the switches. We run a
> jumper from the center terminal to the top terminal so the ignition will
> ground out when the switch is placed into the monetary on mode.
> We also jumper each of the switches (upper terminals) together and then to
> an airframe ground. Now...If any single ground wire breaks the engine can
> still be shut down. You would have to have two ground wires broken before
> you would have an accidental live mag situation.
>
> I know this might sound complicated, but it's quite simple.... If you want I
> can e-mail you a wiring diagram. of the switches.
> I hope this helps
>
> Bob Robertson
> Light Engine Services Ltd.
> Rotax Service Center
> St. Albert, Ab. T8N 1M8
> Ph: (Tech Support) 1-780-418-4164
> Ph: (Order Line) 1-866-418-4164 (TOLL FREE)
> www.rtx-av-engines.ca
>
>
> ---- Original Message -----
> From: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
> To:
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Kill Switch
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
>
> >
> > I need some technical advice from someone who has 'been there done that'.
> > I'm installing a 912s in my model 7 and was wanting to run a kill switch
> so
> > I can turn the engine over without the mags being hot. I have a sp/st
> toggle
> > switch that was supplied with the kit. Can I run both P leads from the
> mags
> > to this switch and then to ground or should I use a dp/st switch? These P
> > leads also go to the ignition switch but I want the option of grounding
> the
> > mags and still turning the engine over. I just worry if there will be a
> > problem with both leads going through one switch or should I use a double
> > pole single throw switch? Advise Please
> >
> > Roger Mac
> >
> > S7 with 912S at last
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bob, I am intrigued by your 912 wiring, could you send me a diagram.
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <AEROCONTROLS@CLEARWAVE.CA>
Roger,
Here is what we do on all our 912 installations. Works great and is simple.
1. We use a key switch to acting like a master switch only. This simply
connects/disconnects power to the power buss bar. You could also use a good
quality toggle switch for this.
2. We use 2 "single throw-double pole-momentary switches for the mags (one
switch for each circuit). These switches are "down" for closed (kills the
ignition) center is open (run) and momentary up also kills the engine but
this position of for mag checks only... This makes sure that the engine
returns to a "run" condition after doing a mag check... There is no chance
of accidentally leav
ing either mag in a closed situation while running the
engine. The switch we use is manufactured by Cole-Hersee (part no. 55088)
and can be purchased at any NAPA store.
We run each of the grounding cables (P-leads) up to the switch. These go the
bottom terminals on the switches.
We also run a separate ground from the engine up to the switch. We use
RG-74AU coax for this purpose. We use the shielding as the ground wire.
The grounds attach to the center terminals on the switches. We run a
jumper from the center terminal to the top terminal so the ignition will
ground out when the switch is placed into the monetary on mode.
We also jumper each of the switches (upper terminals) together and then to
an airframe ground. Now...If any single ground wire breaks the engine can
still be shut down. You would have to have two ground wires broken before
you would h
ave an accidental live mag situation.
I know this might sound complicated, but it's quite simple.... If you want I
can e-mail you a wiring diagram. of the switches.
I hope this helps
Bob Robertson
Light Engine Services Ltd.
Rotax Service Center
St. Albert, Ab. T8N 1M8
Ph: (Tech Support) 1-780-418-4164
Ph: (Order Line) 1-866-418-4164 (TOLL FREE)
www.rtx-av-engines.ca
---- Original Message -----
From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <RDMAC@SWBELL.NET>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kill Switch
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
<RDMAC@SWBELL.NET>
I need some technical advice from someone who has 'been there done that'.
I'm installing a 912s in my model 7 and was wanting to run a kill switch
so
I can turn the engine over without the mags being hot. I have a sp/st
toggle
switch that was supplied with the kit. Can I run both P leads from the
mags
to this switch and then to ground or should I use a dp/st switch? These P
leads also go to the ignition switch but I want the option of grounding
the
mags and still turning the engine over. I just worry if there will be a
problem with both leads going through one switch or should I use a double
pole single throw switch? Advise Please
Roger Mac
S7 with 912S at last
e Subscriptions page,
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: leaky primer circuit |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Thanks Don. I'll pull it apart and have a look.
Marco
KF 2 N99KX
do not archive
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 4/5/2005 3:59:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
msm_9949@yahoo.com writes:
I'm getting a continuous fuel flow through the primer circuit, dripping out
the carbs on my 582, whenever fuel shut-off is opened. This happens whether I
pump the primer or not. Obviously, something's amis.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Marco Menezes
KF-II N99KX
Sounds like a cut "O" ring around the piston of the primer pump or something
of that nature. I think the piston on mine has a collar that uncrews and
the piston pulls out.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Mike,
The springs in the adjustment mechanism take up the slack in the cables. I
suppose you could put turnbuckles in the system, but it seems like they
would add possible failure point, catch point, and extra weight. The system
works great with out them
I did get my cables not quite the right length for the right seat pedals so
that the pedals are not even when the rudder is centered, but it doesn't
seem noticeable when flying or on the ground. Turnbuckles would be good to
correct this error, but don't be like me and do it right in the first place.
Enjoy the building process. It's great, but flying is even better!
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Couillard
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Yes I do. And I was wondering the same, but perhaps I need more
explanation. Turnbuckles won't work anywhere in this system?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Daughenbaugh
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh"
--> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Mike,
Do you have the adjustable pedals option? If you do, the turnbuckle
approach is irrelevant.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Couillard
Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Mike Couillard - TSI
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 6:30 PM
> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Series 5 building sequence
>
> I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help me unravel my
> "house of cards" regarding building sequence. I have a '98 series 5,
> about to install rudder pedal assembly (much thanks to a list member's
> tip I will do that with blind nuts to permit future removal if/when
> needed). But here's my question/dilemma.
>
> I understand that to install the lower clips that hold the firewall in
> place, the rudder pedals and floorboards will need to come out. If
> that's the case I hesitate to permanently install this assembly, which
> means that I won't install rudder cables until I can complete
> permanent installation of the pedals (at least that's my thought
> process right now). Which seems to put a lot of things on hold
> (without the cables complete I'm not sure it makes sense to finish
> center console installation, install the seat pan, etc. ) I'm feeling
> stuck here and I'm thinking it sure would be nice to install those
> clips and let things flow from there. Can these be purchased separate
> (or before) purchasing the entire firewall forward kit? Sure would be
> nice if that could be done now. I haven't even decided which engine
> package I'll go with so I don't know if these "clips" will vary from
> one engine installation to another. Is the firewall the same
> regardless of engine package selected?
>
> Another related question concerning the cables. Has anyone seen an
> advantage/accomplished cable installation using turnbuckles to
> facilitate tensioning the cables properly once the swageing is
> completed? Good idea/bad idea? I came upon the idea after reading a
> general kitplane building book, as a way to ease future maintenance
> efforts, while also making it easier to adjust cable tension once the
> cables are in. Would appreciate any thoughts out there on this one.
> The one thing that makes me wonder if this is a good idea is the way
> the pilots and copilots cables are interconnected on the Kitfox. If
> this is an idea with merit, where have folks installed the
> turnbuckles? I want them to be accessible after covering with fabric,
> etc.
>
> Thanks for any ideas you all may have on the above.
>
> Mike Couillard
> Colorado Springs
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Alaska 2005 #2 |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 09:31:02 -0600
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Thomas Johnston" <THOMASLJOHNSTON@msn.com>
Stan ,
Thanks. It is interesting. When I went to Alaska to fly helicopters for Alaskan
Helicopters in 1967 I just went up there and started flying without any particular
briefing other than how to land on water with floats which I had never
done before. I guess flying helicopters is different but at that time I thought
I could go anywhere in the world and do my thing and not think anything much
about it. One thing about a helicopter you can land almost anywhere at anytime.
A Kitfox comes pretty close to that.
At that time the only unusual legality they had about flying in Alaska was you
couldn't shoot any animals out of a helicopter. If you did it could be confiscated.
The fixed wing boys could still hunt wolves from an airplane which they
did in the winter using skis so they could land and pick up the dead wolves or
whichever part of their anatomy they had to turn in as proof of the kill. I don't
recall what that was. I think they skinned them as well since the pelt was
valuable as well. A dead wolf was worth a $50 bounty then - a substantial amount
of money in 1967.
Thanks for keeping me updated. Maybe next year....
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: SOURDOSTAN@aol.com<mailto:SOURDOSTAN@aol.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com.rocslo@charter.net<mailto:kitfox-list@matronicscom.rocslo@charter.net> ; wa8plj@arrl.net<mailto:wa8plj@arrl.net> ; terryblack274tb@yahoo.com<mailto:terryblack274tb@yahoo.com> ; robert.mcclintock@sbcglobal.n<mailto:robert.mcclintock@sbcglobal.n>
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 12:31 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Alaska 2005 #2
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: SOURDOSTAN@aol.com<mailto:SOURDOSTAN@aol.com>
Alaska 2005 #2
We are fast approaching departure time for flying our Kitfoxes to Alaska in
June, now a little over two months away. I will continue to send notes of
interest only to those who are thinking about going on the trip, so let me know
real soon if you are interested. We now have four or five confirmed pilots20and
looking for more.
This note is the second in a series about our Kitfox trip to Alaska in June
2005. The emphasis of this note is to get you started on gaining information
about the trip -flying conditions, what to expect, and how to go about planning
for the trip. This information may interest you, whether you plan on making
the trip this year or at another time. One of the best resources is the
E2809CLogbookE2809D published by the Alaska AirmenE28099s Association. I recently
received my
copy in the mail and havenE28099t been able to put it down, even though I know
quite
a bit about the subject. You can either buy the book from the Alaska AirmenE28099s
association for $35 or the best deal is to join the Alaska AirmenE28099s
Association for $35. As a member they will send you a copy of the Logbook free,
plus a
yearE28099s membership, which includes a bi-monthly newsletter and a packet of
miscellaneous information. Part of this packet is information about flying20in
Canada, including customs information for entering Canada and returning to the
United States. (I will prepare an information note about customs and Canadian
flying later.)
The Logbook is intended to provide information for general aviation pilots
about flying to and in Alaska. It provides a way to gather a cross-section of
information into an easily accessible and understandable format. Sections of
the
Logbook include weather, terrain, legalities of flying in Alaska, being
prepared for the flight, contacts with the Alaskan wildlife,survival, other
reference materials, flying in Canada, descriptions of the various routes to
and
within Alaska including airport diagrams, and side trips.
To discover more about joining the Alaska AirmenE28099s Association and purchasing
their items, visit their Website at www.alaskaairmen.com<http://www.alaskaairmen.com/> or call toll-free
800-464-7030. Please mention my name when joining.
Stan Specht
sourdostan@aol.com<mailto:sourdostan@aol.com>
Kitfox Model IV Speedster E2809CColumbineE2809D
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Series 5 building sequence |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Hey Randy,
This is great info, and you've talked me out of it. I guess I hadn't
dug deep enough into how those springs would work; just thought they
would retract the pedals in the direction of the firewall, but the way
you explain it makes good sense. Will pay attention for even placement.
Thanks for the input--I appreciate it. I'm slowly building confidence
the deeper I get into the project, spending a little less time
scratching my head and a little more time building.
Thanks!
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Daughenbaugh
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh"
--> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Mike,
The springs in the adjustment mechanism take up the slack in the cables.
I suppose you could put turnbuckles in the system, but it seems like
they would add possible failure point, catch point, and extra weight.
The system works great with out them
I did get my cables not quite the right length for the right seat pedals
so that the pedals are not even when the rudder is centered, but it
doesn't seem noticeable when flying or on the ground. Turnbuckles would
be good to correct this error, but don't be like me and do it right in
the first place.
Enjoy the building process. It's great, but flying is even better!
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Couillard
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Yes I do. And I was wondering the same, but perhaps I need more
explanation. Turnbuckles won't work anywhere in this system?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Daughenbaugh
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh"
--> <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Mike,
Do you have the adjustable pedals option? If you do, the turnbuckle
approach is irrelevant.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Couillard
Subject: Kitfox-List: RE: Series 5 building sequence
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Mike Couillard - TSI
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 6:30 PM
> To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: Series 5 building sequence
>
> I'm wondering if some of you might be able to help me unravel my
> "house of cards" regarding building sequence. I have a '98 series 5,
> about to install rudder pedal assembly (much thanks to a list member's
> tip I will do that with blind nuts to permit future removal if/when
> needed). But here's my question/dilemma.
>
> I understand that to install the lower clips that hold the firewall in
> place, the rudder pedals and floorboards will need to come out. If
> that's the case I hesitate to permanently install this assembly, which
> means that I won't install rudder cables until I can complete
> permanent installation of the pedals (at least that's my thought
> process right now). Which seems to put a lot of things on hold
> (without the cables complete I'm not sure it makes sense to finish
> center console installation, install the seat pan, etc. ) I'm feeling
> stuck here and I'm thinking it sure would be nice to install those
> clips and let things flow from there. Can these be purchased separate
> (or before) purchasing the entire firewall forward kit? Sure would be
> nice if that could be done now. I haven't even decided which engine
> package I'll go with so I don't know if these "clips" will vary from
> one engine installation to another. Is the firewall the same
> regardless of engine package selected?
>
> Another related question concerning the cables. Has anyone seen an
> advantage/accomplished cable installation using turnbuckles to
> facilitate tensioning the cables properly once the swageing is
> completed? Good idea/bad idea? I came upon the idea after reading a
> general kitplane building book, as a way to ease future maintenance
> efforts, while also making it easier to adjust cable tension once the
> cables are in. Would appreciate any thoughts out there on this one.
> The one thing that makes me wonder if this is a good idea is the way
> the pilots and copilots cables are interconnected on the Kitfox. If
> this is an idea with merit, where have folks installed the
> turnbuckles? I want them to be accessible after covering with fabric,
> etc.
>
> Thanks for any ideas you all may have on the above.
>
> Mike Couillard
> Colorado Springs
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
In a message dated 4/4/2005 9:12:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
aerocontrols@clearwave.ca writes:
know this might sound complicated, but it's quite simple.... If you want I
can e-mail you a wiring diagram. of the switches.
I hope this helps
Bob,
I'm planning something similar. If it's not too much trouble, I would
appreciate an email of the wiring diagram to. (_mdkitfox@aol.com_
(mailto:mdkitfox@aol.com) )
Thanks.
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
John,
Did you have to rework the firewall or engine mount due to the HD starter?
I've installed both the slipper clutch and HD starter, but have not mounted
the engine yet. I just wanted to know how painful this was going to be.
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
I copied this from someone so,,,
I had the keyed switch from Skystar so I used it to run the Mags. I can
lock the mags (and thus the engine) off. I didn't put the starter solenoid
on the keyed switch though. I added a starter button.
Thus I can crank the engine, to use Clint's 912 starting procedure, without
the engine starting because the key is off. I turn on the mags to start the
engine. And I can check the individual mags just like a Cessna. ;-)
I would probably have used the setup Bob describes if I didn't already have
the keyed switch.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Mdkitfox@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kill Switch
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
In a message dated 4/4/2005 9:12:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
aerocontrols@clearwave.ca writes:
know this might sound complicated, but it's quite simple.... If you want I
can e-mail you a wiring diagram. of the switches.
I hope this helps
Bob,
I'm planning something similar. If it's not too much trouble, I would
appreciate an email of the wiring diagram to. (_mdkitfox@aol.com_
(mailto:mdkitfox@aol.com) )
Thanks.
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Maher <lilabner_45@yahoo.com>
Hmmm, well,I had the handheld connected to the same antenna that the
panel-mounted King radio had used. An outside antenna with ground
plane. And the handheld was powered fromthe plane's cigarette lighter
at the time. As a last resort, I pulled the cigarette lighter plug and
let the handheld run on its own batteries. No difference - it still
picked up a lot of noise from somewhere.
I gather than squelches work by measuring the signal strength on the
frequency dialled in. When the signal strength gets to a certain level,
the squelch opens and sends everything it hears, through to the
amplifier. Hopefully this happens only when someone nearby is
transmitting something you want to hear. If you turn the squelch knob,
the signal-strength level that opens the squelch, increases.
As I said originally, I wish I could turn the knob a little farther on
the handheld. Evidently the maximum signal strength the handheld's
squelch can be set to, is somewhat lower than the maximum signal
strength the KX-170B's squelch is set to.
I really think it's a simple as that. Didin't mean to generate a lot of
controversy here.
Steve
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
> <michel@online.no>
>
> Steve Maher wrote:
> > Yes, that's indeed how squelches work. But my puzzlement comes from
> the
> > fact that the King KX-170B in the Cessna, squelches out the noise
> just
> > fine while letting the tower and other planes thru, while the
> handheld
> > VXA-120 and 210 don't.
>
> Hum, it can only mean one thing, Steve: Your handheld radios pick an
> airborne
> radio interference that is say, radiating from the engine and/or
> instruments,
> while the bulkhead mounted King has an outside antenna that is
> protected by the
> fuselage that works as a Faraday cage.
> That's the only explanation I can come with.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Noisy brakes |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
kurt schrader wrote:
> But if you keep saying as a command
> "see the pin, see the bolt, see the nut..." for each
> item on preflight, you really do see things you had
> missed before. Good to practice.
I'll try to remember that, Kurt. Glad to learn from someone who has been a lot
around airplanes.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld radio with good squelch? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Steve Maher wrote:
> I really think it's a simple as that. Didin't mean to generate a lot of
> controversy here.
Well, I don't think there is any controversy here, Steve. In my understanding
of the English language, a controversy is only present when two opposite ideas
are being discussed. I would rather call your problem an enigma because I just
can't figure out what it is.
Let me recap: You have tested two handheld radios that both - in your
understanding - should have the squelch control able to go higher. This can
exclude an internal component failure in one radio since both behave the same way.
But radios are built in such a way that proper squelch adjusting is never more
than maybe a fifth of the total possible setting. The squelch function works as
you said, a threshold that cuts low amplitude signals on the selected
frequency. I am not sure but I think one could use a Smith trigger, that is a
transistor that leads, or not, depending of the voltage fed to its base.
But since you have two handheld radios, what you could do it this: Set one with
the squelch to the lowest. Use the other to send, nearby, a signal by simply
pressing the key but don't modulate it with voice. That should cut out the
noise on the other radio because now, instead of picking stray noise from the
atmosphere, you get a good modulated signal with ... nothing on it.
Actually, I am not 100% sure because aviation VHF is amplitude modulate, while
maritime VHF is frequency modulated. But I know that with the latter, I can
e.g. listen to a good, strong signal from say, a coast station, screw the
squelch all the way down, and still not hear any noise at all.
Good luck, Steve,
Michel
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Rick,
I replaced the starter while the engine was installed and it was a pistol to remove
the old starter. No room to turn the long mounting screws with a tool.
I had to saw off the back end mounting bracket casting of the new starter to clear
some hoses I had installed for the cabin heater. That part of the starter
housing is not used when mounting it on the 912 series engines. I don't think
I had a clearance problem with the firewall or engine mount with the Series
6 installation. I would recommend that you saw off the rear mounting bracket
of the HD starter anyway to make more room available for other things and reduce
a little weight. It serves no purpose on a 912 and why not lose a few ounces
everywhere you can. Lockwood says it won't create any problems and that's
what they do.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Mdkitfox@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
>
>John,
>
>Did you have to rework the firewall or engine mount due to the HD starter?
>I've installed both the slipper clutch and HD starter, but have not mounted
>the engine yet. I just wanted to know how painful this was going to be.
>
>Rick Weiss
>Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
>
>
>
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