Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:47 AM - Re: EA-81 question (John Anderson)
2. 06:42 AM - Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Walter Critchlow)
3. 09:25 AM - Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Walter Critchlow)
4. 10:50 AM - Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Walter Critchlow)
5. 01:15 PM - Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Walter Critchlow)
6. 03:06 PM - Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Walter Critchlow)
7. 04:01 PM - Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Walter Critchlow)
8. 05:28 PM - Re: Tailwind-List: Wally's return (Fox5flyer)
9. 05:31 PM - Wally Messages Stopped! (Matt Dralle)
10. 05:38 PM - Bubble doors (Len Shorethose)
11. 06:06 PM - Re: Bubble doors (Fox5flyer)
12. 06:14 PM - Re: 2 questions for the experts (Jerry Liles)
13. 07:22 PM - Fw: Replacing Windshield (Jimmie Blackwell)
14. 08:46 PM - Re: A new Fox (kurt schrader)
15. 08:54 PM - Re: 2 questions for the experts (kurt schrader)
16. 10:35 PM - Re: Bubble doors (Rick)
17. 11:44 PM - Re: 2 questions for the experts (John Anderson)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Howard, the one closest to the dist. Looking f/ward from the alt/w/pump
pulley end it's the back l/hand
From: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: EA-81 question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
Does anyone know what cylinder is #1 for timing purposes? NSI EA-81 Turbo.
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Find the coolest online games @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/gaming
Message 2
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| Subject: | Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
Interested parties .. I'm back.
The south will never be the same
W.C.
C/FRDF
Message 3
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| Subject: | Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
Interested parties .. I'm back.
The south will never be the same
W.C.
C/FRDF
Message 4
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| Subject: | Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
Interested parties .. I'm back.
The south will never be the same
W.C.
C/FRDF
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
Interested parties .. I'm back.
The south will never be the same
W.C.
C/FRDF
Message 6
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| Subject: | Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
Interested parties .. I'm back.
The south will never be the same
W.C.
C/FRDF
Message 7
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| Subject: | Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
Interested parties .. I'm back.
The south will never be the same
W.C.
C/FRDF
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwind-List: Wally's return |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Hi Don. This is about the 4th or 5th time this message has come through.
Whatcha think?
Deke
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Walter Critchlow" <wjc1@sprint.ca>
>
> Interested parties .. I'm back.
> The south will never be the same
> W.C.
> C/FRDF
>
>
Message 9
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Engines-List@matronics.com, Europa-List@matronics.com,
Kitfox-List@matronics.com, Kolb-List@matronics.com,
Pietenpol-List@matronics.com, Rocket-List@matronics.com,
RV-List@matronics.com, RV9-List@matronics.com, RV10-List@matronics.com,
Tailwind-List@matronics.com, Yak-List@matronics.com,
Zenith-List@matronics.com
| Subject: | Wally Messages Stopped! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
My sincere apologies! At about 4:30am this morning there was an odd system
problem on the Matornics email server, causing many mail files to become
marked as "read-only". This wedged many of the List filters causing all
sorts of weird behavior. Perhaps the oddest was that an innocent message
from Walter Critchlow, kept getting posted instead of the actual incoming
List message.
If you receive this message, and sent a list message to any of the lists
shown below between the hours of 4:30am and 5:15pm PDT on Sunday Apr 10th,
your message was one of the ones that got subverted. Please repost your
message to the respective list.
AeroElectric-list
Commandaer-list
Engines-List
Europa-List
Kitfox-List
Kolb-List
Pietenpol-List
Rocket-List
RV-List
RV9-List
RV10-List
Tailwind-List
Yak-List
Zenith-List
Again, my sincere apologies for the problems. I was doing my Taxes (!)
today and wasn't keeping as close an eye on the Lists as I normally do.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Len Shorethose" <TooLowTerrain@comcast.net>
Hello everyone,
I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime soon. Just
curious if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble doors. I'm
considering putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be worthwhile!
Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease of installation?
Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime flying?
Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful. Thanks
for any responses.
Len Shorethose
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Bubble doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
They're great Len. Wouldn't have anything else. However, they sure have
gone up in price! I think I paid $189each for mine, but that was a few
years ago.
Deke
> Hello everyone,
>
> I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime soon.
Just curious if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble doors.
I'm considering putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be
worthwhile!
>
> Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease of
installation? Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
> Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime flying?
>
> Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful.
Thanks for any responses.
>
> Len Shorethose
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
I f you hook the Hoobs to the master switch it will run as soon as you
turn on the switch. This seems to be your situation. On the other
hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of the
engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running. Some
Hobbs type meters are designed to use AC over a wide enough range that
taking power where the wires attach to the regulator works just fine.
If you need DC current, and most Hobbs Meters do, the AC from the coils
can be rectified with a bridge rectifier (get one at Radio Shack) with a
small capacitor across the output to filter the output a bit. Works
fine on Tootie Mae, only powers the Hobbs when the engine is running,
and was easy to do. I have a simple schematic available, and even a
short article I wrote for the Avid Flyer some time ago if anyone is
interested.
Jerry Liles
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>Herbert wrote:
>
>
>>I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's wired so that the Hobbs meter starts
running as soon as the
>>master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs to run only when the engine is
running. Which wire do I
>>hook the Hobbs to, so that this is accomplished?
>>
>>
>
>I hope someone will answer your question, Herb, because ... I am asking myself
>the same thing. I have, sort of, been thinking about it. I think I remember my
>regulator as two DC 12v outputs. Maybe I can connect one to the Hobbs meter,
>but I am not sure. I have a Jabiru engine but I guess it is the same for all
>engines, to register the engine running, and only that, you have to pick the
>feeding power before the regulator ... or, whatever comes out of the regulator
>that is not connected to the battery.
>I await impatiently the answer from an expert.
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fw: Replacing Windshield |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell
Subject: Replacing Windshield
I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the details.
I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that there was
a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends necessary of
the Model IV.
Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
Thanks
Jimmie
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Last I read, 12 GPH at "idle" and 17 gph at full
power. Kind'a reduces the range a bit.
Kurt S.
--- Bruce Harrington <aerowood@mcsi.net> wrote:
>
> Also mucho fuel burn rate!
> bh
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > With all the small turbines out there its time
> someone took it on. I have
> > been waiting for someone to do this and will be
> very interested in the out
> > come. Were talking mucho hp and to weight ratio
> here. Please keep us
> > posted Howard.
> >
> > Dee Young
> > Model II
> > N345DY
> >
> > Do Not Archive
__________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Don't know if this will help. On my engine, I swapped
the oil pressure sender for one that also has the
switch. Then I wired a light to the switch to
indicate low oil pressure. From that I wired a Radio
Shack relay to the same light wire and used it to turn
the hobbs off when the light is on and to turn the
Hobbs on when the light is off. So my Hobbs is
controlled by oil pressure.
If you already have the switched pressure sender, it
is a cheap add on to control the Hobbs. The relays
come in pairs, they are so cheap.
Kurt S. s-5/NSI turbo
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
>
> Herbert wrote:
> > I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's
> wired so that the Hobbs meter starts running as soon
> as the master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs
> > to run only when the engine is running. Which
> wire do I hook the Hobbs to, so that this
> > is accomplished?
>
> I hope someone will answer your question, Herb,
> because ... I am asking myself the same thing.
> .............
> Cheers,
> Michel
__________________________________
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I have them and the view and extra elbow room is nice but at 300 each they
can keep them. I would just make my own and forget the bubble. They were
pricey then; that's nuts. What, did the price of a barrel of plexi sky
rocket. Don't tell me they control that too.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bubble doors
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
They're great Len. Wouldn't have anything else. However, they sure have
gone up in price! I think I paid $189each for mine, but that was a few
years ago.
Deke
> Hello everyone,
>
> I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime soon.
Just curious if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble doors.
I'm considering putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be
worthwhile!
>
> Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease of
installation? Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
> Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime flying?
>
> Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful.
Thanks for any responses.
>
> Len Shorethose
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Another way is to earth the hobbs meter through an oil pressure switch, easy
also. ~j~
From: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 2 questions for the experts
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
I f you hook the Hoobs to the master switch it will run as soon as you
turn on the switch. This seems to be your situation. On the other
hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of the
engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running. Some
Hobbs type meters are designed to use AC over a wide enough range that
taking power where the wires attach to the regulator works just fine.
If you need DC current, and most Hobbs Meters do, the AC from the coils
can be rectified with a bridge rectifier (get one at Radio Shack) with a
small capacitor across the output to filter the output a bit. Works
fine on Tootie Mae, only powers the Hobbs when the engine is running,
and was easy to do. I have a simple schematic available, and even a
short article I wrote for the Avid Flyer some time ago if anyone is
interested.
Jerry Liles
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>Herbert wrote:
>
>
>>I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's wired so that the Hobbs
>>meter starts running as soon as the master switch is turned on. I want
>>the Hobbs to run only when the engine is running. Which wire do I hook
>>the Hobbs to, so that this is accomplished?
>>
>>
>
>I hope someone will answer your question, Herb, because ... I am asking
>myself the same thing. I have, sort of, been thinking about it. I think I
>remember my regulator as two DC 12v outputs. Maybe I can connect one to the
>Hobbs meter, but I am not sure. I have a Jabiru engine but I guess it is
>the same for all engines, to register the engine running, and only that,
>you have to pick the feeding power before the regulator ... or, whatever
>comes out of the regulator that is not connected to the battery. I await
>impatiently the answer from an expert.
>
>Cheers, Michel
>
>
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