Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:54 AM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (Fox5flyer)
2. 06:56 AM - Hobbs Meter from 582 (Napier, Mark)
3. 07:31 AM - Re: 2 questions for the experts (Marco Menezes)
4. 11:22 AM - Hobbs meter. WAS: 2 questions for the experts (Michel Verheughe)
5. 11:49 AM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (David Savener)
6. 12:53 PM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (Jimmie Blackwell)
7. 02:04 PM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (Michel Verheughe)
8. 02:06 PM - Re: Bubble doors (Mike Couillard)
9. 02:41 PM - Re: Bubble doors (Fox5flyer)
10. 02:54 PM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (David Savener)
11. 04:06 PM - Hobbs meter (Rex & Jan Shaw)
12. 04:10 PM - Re: Bubble doors (Rick)
13. 04:10 PM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (Rick)
14. 05:01 PM - Re: Hobbs meter. WAS: 2 questions for the experts (Tom Tomlin)
15. 05:44 PM - Re: 2 questions for the experts (Jerry Liles)
16. 05:53 PM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (Jerry Liles)
17. 06:25 PM - Windshield replacement (Herbert)
18. 08:41 PM - Re: Windshield replacement (Jimmie Blackwell)
19. 08:56 PM - Re: Windshield replacement (Clint Bazzill)
20. 09:24 PM - Aviation News (AVIATION GROUP)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Jimmie, if you plan to keep your Fox for the long term, my suggestion would
be to lose the Lexan and replace it with an LP acrylic premolded acrylic
unit. A little pricey, but other than that, you'll never look back.
Deke
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the
details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends
necessary of the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Hobbs Meter from 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Napier, Mark" <Mark.Napier@sciatl.com>
The Hobbs is rated for DC from 5V to 40V so the bridge rectifier will work
fine.
The only caveat is that the circuit needs to start before the regulator from
the AC wires, through the bridge rectifier, capacitor, Hobbs meter, etc. and
back but be isolated from the rest of the airframe. Don't ground it
anywhere. Otherwise it seems to interfere with the regulator/rectifier's
ability to sense the battery voltage and maintain charge.
I just added this. On mine, the master switch had been left on a couple of
times so the Hobbs read 934. From the logbook a closer guess is about 170
TTE/A.
FWIW,
Mark Napier
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com
<mailto:wliles@bayou.com>> I f you hook the Hoobs to the master switch it
will run as soon as you turn on the switch. This seems to be your situation.
On the other hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of
the engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running. Some
Hobbs type meters are designed to use AC over a wide enough range that
taking power where the wires attach to the regulator works just fine. If you
need DC current, and most Hobbs Meters do, the AC from the coils can be
rectified with a bridge rectifier (get one at Radio Shack) with a small
capacitor across the output to filter the output a bit. Works fine on Tootie
Mae, only powers the Hobbs when the engine is running, and was easy to do. I
have a simple schematic available, and even a short article I wrote for the
Avid Flyer some time ago if anyone is interested. Jerry Liles Michel
Verheughe wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
<michel@online.no <mailto:michel@online.no>> > >Herbert wrote: > > >>I have
a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's wired so that the Hobbs meter starts
running as soon as the >>master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs to run
only when the engine is running. Which wire do I >>hook the Hobbs to, so
that this is accomplished? >> >> > >I hope someone will answer your
question, Herb, because ... I am asking myself >the same thing. I have, sort
of, been thinking about it. I think I remember my >regulator as two DC 12v
outputs. Maybe I can connect one to the Hobbs meter, >but I am not sure. I
have a Jabiru engine but I guess it is the same for all >engines, to
register the engine running, and only that, you have to pick the >feeding
power before the regulator ... or, whatever comes out of the regulator >that
is not connected to the battery. >I await impatiently the answer from an
expert. > >Cheers, >Michel > >
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
I'd like to see your article and schematic Jerry. My Hobbs runs when I charge my
battery!
Thanks
Marco Menezes
KF2 - N99KX
Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles
I f you hook the Hoobs to the master switch it will run as soon as you
turn on the switch. This seems to be your situation. On the other
hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of the
engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running. Some
Hobbs type meters are designed to use AC over a wide enough range that
taking power where the wires attach to the regulator works just fine.
If you need DC current, and most Hobbs Meters do, the AC from the coils
can be rectified with a bridge rectifier (get one at Radio Shack) with a
small capacitor across the output to filter the output a bit. Works
fine on Tootie Mae, only powers the Hobbs when the engine is running,
and was easy to do. I have a simple schematic available, and even a
short article I wrote for the Avid Flyer some time ago if anyone is
interested.
Jerry Liles
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
>
>Herbert wrote:
>
>
>>I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's wired so that the Hobbs meter starts
running as soon as the
>>master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs to run only when the engine is running.
Which wire do I
>>hook the Hobbs to, so that this is accomplished?
>>
>>
>
>I hope someone will answer your question, Herb, because ... I am asking myself
>the same thing. I have, sort of, been thinking about it. I think I remember my
>regulator as two DC 12v outputs. Maybe I can connect one to the Hobbs meter,
>but I am not sure. I have a Jabiru engine but I guess it is the same for all
>engines, to register the engine running, and only that, you have to pick the
>feeding power before the regulator ... or, whatever comes out of the regulator
>that is not connected to the battery.
>I await impatiently the answer from an expert.
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Hobbs meter. WAS: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello Kurt and Jerry,
> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
> Don't know if this will help. On my engine, I swapped
> the oil pressure sender for one that also has the
> switch.
Sure, it helps, Kurt. Good thinking!
> From: Jerry Liles [wliles@bayou.com]
> On the other hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of
the
> engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running.
That's also a good idea, Jerry.
But, I have been looking at my Jabiru regulator. Please look at:
http://www.usjabiru.com/Tech%20Tips.htm#Single%20Phase%20Alternator%20Wiring
To me, it looks like there are two 12V outputs, the red and the yellow wire.
The way I have it connected now is that both go to the battery. But maybe I
could use one to the battery and the other one to the Hobbs meter. The question
then is, which one?
Hum, do you have an idea, guys, or should I ask the Jabiru Engine list?
Cheers,
Michel
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:46:54 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
Jimmy,
Consider a windshield made of plexiglass. Gasoline will mar lexan. It crazes,
etc. etc.
I think LP Aero Plastics makes one for the Kitfox. There may be others. I'll
look through my receipts and get the exact name of the company.
Dave S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 11:23 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Replacing Windshield
I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the details.
I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that there
was a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends necessary of
the Model IV.
Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
Thanks
Jimmie
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Dave
I was kinda thinking about doing that, but I am concerned that the preformed
windshield might not match my cowling. Not knowing how the builder
approached the windshield cowling fit I was thinking that I might have
trouble with the lpaero windshield. When you built yours, did you match the
cowling to the windshield or windshield to cowling.
I would certainly rather have the preformed windshield if I could get it to
fit.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
>
> Jimmy,
>
> Consider a windshield made of plexiglass. Gasoline will mar lexan. It
crazes, etc. etc.
>
> I think LP Aero Plastics makes one for the Kitfox. There may be others.
I'll look through my receipts and get the exact name of the company.
>
> Dave S
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 11:23 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all
the details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends
necessary of the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
David Savener wrote:
> Gasoline will mar lexan.
Well, I keep hearing that but, a few weeks ago, I developed a leak in my right
hand wing tank drain (probably after a winter of no fuel and engine
installation). Shaking the drain made only things worse. But when the inspector
(new engine!) opened the right hand door, I saw fuel dripping on the Lexan of
the door in a sufficient quantity to do real damage. I quickly wiped it off and
closed the door. Luckily, noting happened, the Lexan is still clear and shiny
as if nothing happened. But maybe it is because I often clean my windshield and
doors with Johnson's furniture polish.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Source of these? Is there more than one vendor?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bubble doors
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
--> <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
They're great Len. Wouldn't have anything else. However, they sure
have gone up in price! I think I paid $189each for mine, but that was a
few years ago.
Deke
> Hello everyone,
>
> I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime
soon.
Just curious if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble
doors.
I'm considering putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be
worthwhile!
>
> Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease
of
installation? Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
> Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime
flying?
>
> Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful.
Thanks for any responses.
>
> Len Shorethose
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bubble doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
LP Aero Plastics Inc. The number I have is old, but you can try 724 744
4448
Their address is 1086 Boquet Rd,Jeannette PA 15644-9730
http://www.lpaero.com/
Good luck,
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Couillard" <Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Bubble doors
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
>
> Source of these? Is there more than one vendor?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bubble doors
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
> --> <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
> They're great Len. Wouldn't have anything else. However, they sure
> have gone up in price! I think I paid $189each for mine, but that was a
> few years ago.
> Deke
>
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime
> soon.
> Just curious if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble
> doors.
> I'm considering putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be
> worthwhile!
> >
> > Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease
> of
> installation? Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
> > Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime
> flying?
> >
> > Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful.
> Thanks for any responses.
> >
> > Len Shorethose
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 16:52:08 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
I got fuel on the edge of my lexan where it had been cut and it worked it's way
up from that edge. UGLY!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Michel Verheughe<mailto:michel@online.no>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no<mailto:michel@online.no>>
David Savener wrote:
> Gasoline will mar lexan.
Well, I keep hearing that but, a few weeks ago, I developed a leak in my right
hand wing tank drain (probably after a winter of no fuel and engine
installation). Shaking the drain made only things worse. But when the inspector
(new engine!) opened the right hand door, I saw fuel dripping on the Lexan of
the door in a sufficient quantity to do real damage. I quickly wiped it off and
closed the door. Luckily, noting happened, the Lexan is still clear and shiny
as if nothing happened. But maybe it is because I often clean my windshield and
doors with Johnson's furniture polish.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's wired so that the Hobbs meter
starts
running as soon as the
>>master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs to run only when the engine
is
running. Which wire do I
>>hook the Hobbs to, so that this is accomplished?
Another alternative is an airswitch so your time only runs above about 30
knots. Mine does this and is cheap and simple.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
They can only be purchased from them. If you buy them else where they just
do a drop ship. Like I said, I like em but they just just went out of my
like zone.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike
Couillard
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Bubble doors
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Source of these? Is there more than one vendor?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bubble doors
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
--> <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
They're great Len. Wouldn't have anything else. However, they sure
have gone up in price! I think I paid $189each for mine, but that was a
few years ago.
Deke
> Hello everyone,
>
> I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime
soon.
Just curious if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble
doors.
I'm considering putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be
worthwhile!
>
> Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease
of
installation? Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
> Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime
flying?
>
> Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful.
Thanks for any responses.
>
> Len Shorethose
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fw: Replacing Windshield |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
You fit the windshield with the cowling in place. And rest assured it will
not be a turn key operation. Do-able but go slow, and better wait till it is
hot out. Follow the direction that come with the new windshield or door.
Remember measure three times cut once :)Good luck.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jimmie
Blackwell
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Dave
I was kinda thinking about doing that, but I am concerned that the preformed
windshield might not match my cowling. Not knowing how the builder
approached the windshield cowling fit I was thinking that I might have
trouble with the lpaero windshield. When you built yours, did you match the
cowling to the windshield or windshield to cowling.
I would certainly rather have the preformed windshield if I could get it to
fit.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
>
> Jimmy,
>
> Consider a windshield made of plexiglass. Gasoline will mar lexan. It
crazes, etc. etc.
>
> I think LP Aero Plastics makes one for the Kitfox. There may be others.
I'll look through my receipts and get the exact name of the company.
>
> Dave S
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 11:23 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all
the details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends
necessary of the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbs meter. WAS: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tom Tomlin" <ThomasTomlin@comcast.net>
Hi michael,
I was looking through the site you had listed and the red wire
should go to the battery through a 30 amp fuse, and the yellow wire
is to be used where needed in your 12 volt system.
The direct link is
http://www.usjabiru.com/Tech%20Tips.htm#Idle%20Adjustment
and go to the bottom of that page.
This same page has excellent tips on maintenance items for
the first few critical hours of break in.
I hope this addresses your question.
Any issues with the Jabiru that I could learn from you?
TT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Hobbs meter. WAS: 2 questions for the experts
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Hello Kurt and Jerry,
>
>> From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com]
>> Don't know if this will help. On my engine, I swapped
>> the oil pressure sender for one that also has the
>> switch.
>
> Sure, it helps, Kurt. Good thinking!
>
>> From: Jerry Liles [wliles@bayou.com]
>> On the other hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil
>> of the
>> engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running.
>
> That's also a good idea, Jerry.
>
> But, I have been looking at my Jabiru regulator. Please look at:
> http://www.usjabiru.com/Tech%20Tips.htm#Single%20Phase%20Alternator%20Wiring
>
> To me, it looks like there are two 12V outputs, the red and the yellow
> wire.
> The way I have it connected now is that both go to the battery. But maybe
> I
> could use one to the battery and the other one to the Hobbs meter. The
> question
> then is, which one?
> Hum, do you have an idea, guys, or should I ask the Jabiru Engine list?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
Works just fine on a 4 stroke engine but won't work on a two stroke
which has no oil pressure.
Jerry Liles
kurt schrader wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
>Don't know if this will help. On my engine, I swapped
>the oil pressure sender for one that also has the
>switch. Then I wired a light to the switch to
>indicate low oil pressure. From that I wired a Radio
>Shack relay to the same light wire and used it to turn
>the hobbs off when the light is on and to turn the
>Hobbs on when the light is off. So my Hobbs is
>controlled by oil pressure.
>
>If you already have the switched pressure sender, it
>is a cheap add on to control the Hobbs. The relays
>come in pairs, they are so cheap.
>
>Kurt S. s-5/NSI turbo
>
>--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
>
>
>>Herbert wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's
>>>
>>>
>>wired so that the Hobbs meter starts running as soon
>>as the master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs
>>
>>
>>>to run only when the engine is running. Which
>>>
>>>
>>wire do I hook the Hobbs to, so that this
>>
>>
>>>is accomplished?
>>>
>>>
>>I hope someone will answer your question, Herb,
>>because ... I am asking myself the same thing.
>>.............
>>Cheers,
>>Michel
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
In my experience aviation gas is less likely to cause Lexan to craze
than autogas. Auto gas can be wiped off immediately usually without
damage, however if it gets on the edge it is very likely to damage the
window. Perhaps using the furniture polish does provide that extra bit
of protection. Should make an interesting experiment if you have any
scraps left.
Jerry Liles
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>David Savener wrote:
>
>
>>Gasoline will mar lexan.
>>
>>
>
>Well, I keep hearing that but, a few weeks ago, I developed a leak in my right
>hand wing tank drain (probably after a winter of no fuel and engine
>installation). Shaking the drain made only things worse. But when the inspector
>(new engine!) opened the right hand door, I saw fuel dripping on the Lexan of
>the door in a sufficient quantity to do real damage. I quickly wiped it off and
>closed the door. Luckily, noting happened, the Lexan is still clear and shiny
>as if nothing happened. But maybe it is because I often clean my windshield and
>doors with Johnson's furniture polish.
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Windshield replacement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net>
Jimmie.....I replaced the windshield on my Kitfox 4, just about a year ago. I
don't think I would install .125 (1/8") Lexan (polycarbonate) again. I had
some problems making the bend onto the cabin top, but was able to make the bend
with lottsa Texas hot sunshine, supplimented with a heat gun. It looked great
for 8 or 9 months and then crazing started to show at the side edges of the
bend where it bends to onto the cabin top. It's not all that bad at this
point, but I don't want it to get any worse.
I might consider going the next thickness thinner if the crazing continues to get
worse and I have to do it again. I believe that the next thinner would be
3/32nds. (.093) The stress of the strong bend to the cabin top mighten be not
be as stressfull on the thinner polycarbonate.
Regards ......Herb
*********************
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell
Subject: Replacing Windshield
I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the details.
I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that there was
a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends necessary of
the Model IV.
Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
Thanks
Jimmie
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield replacement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Herbert
Thank you. When you gonna get up to Taylor and let me treat you to best BBQ
in Texas?
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Windshield replacement
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net>
>
> Jimmie.....I replaced the windshield on my Kitfox 4, just about a year
ago. I don't think I would install .125 (1/8") Lexan (polycarbonate)
again. I had some problems making the bend onto the cabin top, but was
able to make the bend with lottsa Texas hot sunshine, supplimented with a
heat gun. It looked great for 8 or 9 months and then crazing started to
show at the side edges of the bend where it bends to onto the cabin top.
It's not all that bad at this point, but I don't want it to get any worse.
>
> I might consider going the next thickness thinner if the crazing continues
to get worse and I have to do it again. I believe that the next thinner
would be 3/32nds. (.093) The stress of the strong bend to the cabin top
mighten be not be as stressfull on the thinner polycarbonate.
>
> Regards ......Herb
>
> *********************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell
> Subject: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the
details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was
> a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends necessary
of
> the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield replacement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
I replaced my windshield in my Model IV with .125 lexan. Used the old
pattern and then relieved the sharp bend using a heat gun and careful temp
control. Worked perfect, would do it again in an instant. Increase Vne to
the speedsters number. Clilnt
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Windshield replacement
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Herbert
Thank you. When you gonna get up to Taylor and let me treat you to best BBQ
in Texas?
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Windshield replacement
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net>
>
> Jimmie.....I replaced the windshield on my Kitfox 4, just about a year
ago. I don't think I would install .125 (1/8") Lexan (polycarbonate)
again. I had some problems making the bend onto the cabin top, but was
able to make the bend with lottsa Texas hot sunshine, supplimented with a
heat gun. It looked great for 8 or 9 months and then crazing started to
show at the side edges of the bend where it bends to onto the cabin top.
It's not all that bad at this point, but I don't want it to get any worse.
>
> I might consider going the next thickness thinner if the crazing
continues
to get worse and I have to do it again. I believe that the next thinner
would be 3/32nds. (.093) The stress of the strong bend to the cabin top
mighten be not be as stressfull on the thinner polycarbonate.
>
> Regards ......Herb
>
> *********************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell
> Subject: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the
details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was
> a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends necessary
of
> the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 20
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