Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:57 AM - test (broschart)
2. 02:36 AM - SV: Hobbs meter. (Michel Verheughe)
3. 03:58 AM - Re: Windshield replacement (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
4. 04:56 AM - Re: Windshield replacement (David Savener)
5. 07:04 AM - Re: 2 questions for the experts (DeWayne Clifford)
6. 08:08 AM - questions (hausding, sid)
7. 08:57 AM - Re: Bubble doors (W Duke)
8. 08:36 PM - Compass Location (Tinne maha)
9. 09:13 PM - Re: Compass Location (Rick)
10. 09:23 PM - Re: Compass Location (John King)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "broschart" <cfbflyer@localnet.com>
test address 4/11/05 6:11 am
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello Tom,
> From: Tom Tomlin [ThomasTomlin@comcast.net]
> I was looking through the site you had listed and the red wire
> should go to the battery through a 30 amp fuse, and the yellow wire
> is to be used where needed in your 12 volt system.
Yes, I understand ... and I don't. What's the difference betqween them? Could I
use the yellow wire for the Hobbs meter only?
> Any issues with the Jabiru that I could learn from you?
So far, only a pleasant experience, Tom. My Scandinavian dealer called me, asking
me not to listen to all the well-intended but unnecessary advice from the Jabiru
list. My engine works well and why shouldn't it? It's brand new and it cost
me a pretty penny.
Right now, I experience a rought idle. "It's normal!" says my dealer. The carb
is, by factory set to a rich idle. After a few hours (I have now 16), it is time
to fine tune the idle mixture screw. Do it yourself, if you know how, or fly
to your dealer and he will do it for you. I have opted for the second case because
... I'd rather fly than screw! :-)
Next week-end, I'll be in Paris, but the first decent WX day after that, and I'll
fly my Kitfox to Stavanger-Sola.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield replacement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 4/11/2005 10:40:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hmdoud@ev1.net writes:
I might consider going the next thickness thinner if the crazing continues
to get worse and I have to do it again. I believe that the next thinner
would be 3/32nds. (.093) The stress of the strong bend to the cabin top mighten
be not be as stressfull on the thinner polycarbonate.
Regards ......Herb
I had .093 originally and it crazed. I went to .063 and it still crazed at
the compound bend area. To prevent crazing, you may have to go to Saran Wrap.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield replacement |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 06:53:48 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
I finally fixed my EGT problem. After an engine change, I had one cylinder running
50 to 70 degrees hotter than the other which meant the hot one sat right
on 1200 degrees at cruise RPM and just a little cooler at full power. I had to
throttle back to 5200 RPM before it began to drop below red line.
Problem solved after messing around with Gauges, EGT probes, rebuilding carbs and
trying the many good ideas provided on this list.
I replaced the rubber carburetor sockets even though the old ones looked perfect.
Finally
Thanks for the help. I can finally head out on a cross country.
Dave S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Windshield replacement
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
Herbert
Thank you. When you gonna get up to Taylor and let me treat you to best BBQ
in Texas?
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net<mailto:hmdoud@ev1.net>>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Windshield replacement
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Herbert" <hmdoud@ev1.net<mailto:hmdoud@ev1.net>>
>
> Jimmie.....I replaced the windshield on my Kitfox 4, just about a year
ago. I don't think I would install .125 (1/8") Lexan (polycarbonate)
again. I had some problems making the bend onto the cabin top, but was
able to make the bend with lottsa Texas hot sunshine, supplimented with a
heat gun. It looked great for 8 or 9 months and then crazing started to
show at the side edges of the bend where it bends to onto the cabin top.
It's not all that bad at this point, but I don't want it to get any worse.
>
> I might consider going the next thickness thinner if the crazing continues
to get worse and I have to do it again. I believe that the next thinner
would be 3/32nds. (.093) The stress of the strong bend to the cabin top
mighten be not be as stressfull on the thinner polycarbonate.
>
> Regards ......Herb
>
> *********************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell
> Subject: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all the
details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was
> a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends necessary
of
> the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 2 questions for the experts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "DeWayne Clifford" <kitfox@bresnan.net>
I would like a copy of your drawing please .
kitfox@bresnan.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles@bayou.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 2 questions for the experts
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
>
> I f you hook the Hoobs to the master switch it will run as soon as you
> turn on the switch. This seems to be your situation. On the other
> hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of the
> engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running. Some
> Hobbs type meters are designed to use AC over a wide enough range that
> taking power where the wires attach to the regulator works just fine.
> If you need DC current, and most Hobbs Meters do, the AC from the coils
> can be rectified with a bridge rectifier (get one at Radio Shack) with a
> small capacitor across the output to filter the output a bit. Works
> fine on Tootie Mae, only powers the Hobbs when the engine is running,
> and was easy to do. I have a simple schematic available, and even a
> short article I wrote for the Avid Flyer some time ago if anyone is
> interested.
>
> Jerry Liles
>
> Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> >
> >Herbert wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I have a model 4, with a 552 blue head. It's wired so that the Hobbs
meter starts running as soon as the
> >>master switch is turned on. I want the Hobbs to run only when the
engine is running. Which wire do I
> >>hook the Hobbs to, so that this is accomplished?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >I hope someone will answer your question, Herb, because ... I am asking
myself
> >the same thing. I have, sort of, been thinking about it. I think I
remember my
> >regulator as two DC 12v outputs. Maybe I can connect one to the Hobbs
meter,
> >but I am not sure. I have a Jabiru engine but I guess it is the same for
all
> >engines, to register the engine running, and only that, you have to pick
the
> >feeding power before the regulator ... or, whatever comes out of the
regulator
> >that is not connected to the battery.
> >I await impatiently the answer from an expert.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Michel
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
Jerry,
Put that drawing out where we can see it..........online, or send it out to
us.
Thank you,
S
---------------------------
> I f you hook the Hoobs to the master switch it will run as soon as you
> turn on the switch. This seems to be your situation. On the other
> hand, if you take your power directly from the lighting coil of the
> engine power will go to the Hobbs only if the engine is running. Some
> Hobbs type meters are designed to use AC over a wide enough range that
> taking power where the wires attach to the regulator works just fine.
> If you need DC current, and most Hobbs Meters do, the AC from the coils
> can be rectified with a bridge rectifier (get one at Radio Shack) with a
> small capacitor across the output to filter the output a bit. Works
> fine on Tootie Mae, only powers the Hobbs when the engine is running,
> and was easy to do. I have a simple schematic available, and even a
> short article I wrote for the Avid Flyer some time ago if anyone is
> interested.
>
> Jerry Liles
>
>--------------------------:
-
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bubble doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
Len,
I like mine. I don't remember them being that expensive. Anyway they attach
to the Skystar frame and can be removed just as easily as anything else. Mine
seem to scratch at about the same rate as the windshield. I love being able
to see nearly straight down. Disclaimer: I have only flown in 2 Foxes and both
were so equipped.
Maxwell
Len Shorethose <TooLowTerrain@comcast.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Len Shorethose"
Hello everyone,
I just sold my Series 5 and will probably be building a 7 sometime soon. Just curious
if anybody out there has any experience with the bubble doors. I'm considering
putting them on. But at $300 apiece they better be worthwhile!
Do they cause any significant speed reduction / drag increase? Ease of installation?
Do they scratch as easily as the windshields?
Are they as easily removable as the regular doors for summertime flying?
Anything else on this subject anybody can comment on would be helpful. Thanks for
any responses.
Len Shorethose
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Compass Location |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Hello List,
I am hoping someone can point me to some good data on how close I can mount
my compass to avionics or instruments and still have it be accurate:
I need to choose between 3 options for locating my in-panel compass:
1) - Mount the compass ~2" from my Garmin Panel mounted GPS/Comm
2) - Mount it ~6" from a King KT-76a Transponder AND right next to my
quad gauge & intercom
3) - Cut another new panel & mount it on the far side of the panel
where it will be difficult to read.
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant
Message 9
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| Subject: | Compass Location |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
To be truthful I don't think I have heard of a panel mount working in a
kitfox. On the glare shield with quite a bit of deviation or on the
windshield/ up high with a bit more accuracy. There has been some topic on
this.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tinne maha
Subject: Kitfox-List: Compass Location
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Hello List,
I am hoping someone can point me to some good data on how close I can mount
my compass to avionics or instruments and still have it be accurate:
I need to choose between 3 options for locating my in-panel compass:
1) - Mount the compass ~2" from my Garmin Panel mounted GPS/Comm
2) - Mount it ~6" from a King KT-76a Transponder AND right next to my
quad gauge & intercom
3) - Cut another new panel & mount it on the far side of the panel
where it will be difficult to read.
Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Location |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Compass should be kept at least 9 inches from all electric gyros.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Tinne maha wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
>Hello List,
>
>I am hoping someone can point me to some good data on how close I can mount
>my compass to avionics or instruments and still have it be accurate:
>
>I need to choose between 3 options for locating my in-panel compass:
>
> 1) - Mount the compass ~2" from my Garmin Panel mounted GPS/Comm
>
> 2) - Mount it ~6" from a King KT-76a Transponder AND right next to my
>quad gauge & intercom
>
> 3) - Cut another new panel & mount it on the far side of the panel
>where it will be difficult to read.
>
>Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Grant
>
>
>
>
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