Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:38 AM - KF2 VNE (kitfox@simnet.is)
2. 02:03 PM - Re: windshields (Lowell Fitt)
3. 03:11 PM - Polyfiber Help (Lmar)
4. 03:52 PM - Re: Polyfiber Help (flier)
5. 04:42 PM - Re: Polyfiber Help (Steve Cooper)
6. 04:52 PM - Re: Polyfiber Help (Steve Cooper)
7. 04:57 PM - Re: Polyfiber Help (Steve Zakreski)
8. 05:13 PM - Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield (David Savener)
9. 05:59 PM - Re: Compass Location (Jeff Smathers)
10. 08:08 PM - Re: Polyfiber Help (flier)
11. 08:12 PM - Re: Polyfiber Help (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
12. 08:28 PM - Re: windshields (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
13. 09:03 PM - Re: windshields (Lowell Fitt)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@simnet.is
Hi folks
I am an KF owner in Iceland and I have an KF1 fuselag with KF2 wings. I am wondering
about the VNE given by the manufacturer of the kit. In the manual I got
with the plain when I bought it the VNE is said to be 100mph, then I read in
skystars homepage that it has been reduced down to 90mph, due to some in flight
failiurs of the controls.
My plain can easyly cruse well above 100mph in level flight, and between 85 and
100 mph it flies hands off, there are no vibration and it just flies great at
the high end of the speed range.
Do you have any opinion on these speed limits set by Skystar?, Have you heard
about any problems caused be flying to fast on KF's?
I am thinking of this because I want to replace my old 532 Rotax with a 912 or
a Jab. 2200. Do you thing I will gain anything by this upgrade or schould I just
stick to the 65hp 2-stroke?.
I am already have all the speed I can use, I clime over 1000 f/min with two adults
and 20 gallons of fuel.
any pointers are greatly apriciated.
Regards from Iceland.
http://that.is/slettan/
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Stu,
Just a quick note. These airplanes have been around a long time. the only
bird strike incident I have heard of was one that entered the cowl, sheared
off the line to the primer, resulting in an engine fire.
I have never heard of a windshield strike and have been on the list about
ten years and fly with a group with contacts all over the Western US. Maybe
the difference is the ralative speeds we are flying particularly close to
the ground - within the speed envelope most birds fly. In other words they
see us and can get out of the way. The higher speed airplanes might reduce
the bird's luck a little or maybe a lot with the jets.
This isn't to say that a windshield strike won't happen today or tomorrow,
but I fly with the original thin windshield sold for my Model IV by SS and
am planning to continue with it. It aslo doesn't bother me to see the
slight caving in when in high cruise. Lexan is tough stuff - it will not
break. Crack - yes, but the crack will propagate slowly over time.
Just my opinion.
Lowell Model IV 912UL 687 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu Bryant" <s.j.bryant@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: windshields
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Stu Bryant" <s.j.bryant@sbcglobal.net>
>
> What I want to know is has anyone really studied or had experience with
> bird
> strikes using thin sheet?
>
>
> I can't imagine that I haven't somehow missed some discussion on this
> previously, but what about impact resistance? Thinner and thinner we go,
> but
> folks this is an airplane we're talking about. Not a fast one, but fast
> enough! I will be using this method of bending a thin sheet myself this
> summer for my boat. But the boat probably won't exceed 30 mph. (Not knots-
> MPH), and I can stop nearly anytime I want. I can also crawl back to the
> dock at 10 mph if I so choose.
>
>
> Bird strike is a very real thing to me. Years ago when I was a line boy I
> got to wash both single engine and twins. I saw what ground up seagull
> looks
> like, from spinner to tailfeathers. Worst one was a Cessna 210. Made a
> mess
> on the windshield as well as the whole side of the airplane. I'd hate to
> see
> what would have happened if it had been a flimsy piece of some thin
> plastic
> rather than a molded windshield. And no, I wouldn't count on the propeller
> to make the pieces small enough to do little harm! Might have been
> fatalities had that been some thin sheet. And the speed was only 80 knots
> at
> impact- Kitfox speed. I hit two birds yesterday coming home from work in
> my
> pickup. It happens. Will this sheet give us adequate protection? Even if
> it
> does not allow penetration, will it manage to stay inside its frame if I
> hit
> a seagull, hawk, or goose? I really wonder.
>
>
> Stu Bryant
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Well, I just had to go a bit too far.... I gently sanded (like a bear) my poly-brush
surface tapes to ensure a smooth edge. I went too far and upon sraying
the poly-brush, the "sanded" strands can be seen. I was told to go ahead and
spray the poly spray (silver) and that should take care of it. I used a whole
quart on the elevator and it hasn't gone down or otherwise hide my scratchings
yet. I have not sanded the silver yet, as it needs to dry overnight. I don't
know if it will go away after sanding, but I wanted to get some opinions on
how to fix my blunder so I don't loose more time.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
---------------------------------
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Very carefully take an iron set at around 225 and iron them down with the
edge. Be careful as the iron will move the polybrush and leave ridges in
your finish.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lmar
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Well, I just had to go a bit too far.... I gently sanded (like a bear) my
poly-brush surface tapes to ensure a smooth edge. I went too far and upon
sraying the poly-brush, the "sanded" strands can be seen. I was told to go
ahead and spray the poly spray (silver) and that should take care of it. I
used a whole quart on the elevator and it hasn't gone down or otherwise hide
my scratchings yet. I have not sanded the silver yet, as it needs to dry
overnight. I don't know if it will go away after sanding, but I wanted to
get some opinions on how to fix my blunder so I don't loose more time.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
---------------------------------
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
I tried to iron mine a little in one tiny spot... NOT!!! I wouldn't
recommend it. It just rakes up the coating, leaving a mess. Remember the
little cartoon guy hanging himself next to the caution? Hey, don't feel
bad...it could happen to anyone. When you sand, try to stay off the
tapes, seams and stitch puckers. As far as fixing what you've
got...that's going to be pretty tough. If it really looks bad, try to
use MEK to strip off the coatings and tapes and start over.
Steve Cooper
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lmar
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Well, I just had to go a bit too far.... I gently sanded (like a bear)
my poly-brush surface tapes to ensure a smooth edge. I went too far and
upon sraying the poly-brush, the "sanded" strands can be seen. I was
told to go ahead and spray the poly spray (silver) and that should take
care of it. I used a whole quart on the elevator and it hasn't gone
down or otherwise hide my scratchings yet. I have not sanded the silver
yet, as it needs to dry overnight. I don't know if it will go away
after sanding, but I wanted to get some opinions on how to fix my
blunder so I don't loose more time.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
---------------------------------
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
You ARE wet sanding...right? All you are trying to do is knock off any
little dust particles or bubbles that appear in the surface. On a wing
panel, one side, it shouldn't take you more than about 10 minutes to
complete. Sand between coats of PolySpray (the UV stuff). Here's a
tip...to get the feel for "how many coats to cover" do the Fuse first.
Place a light bulb inside. When you can't see the light shining through
the fabric any more STOP spraying...this is how people get their planes
WAYYYYYYY too heavy. After you get the "feel" for the amount of coating
doing the Fuse, then tackle the wing panels. I hope this is helpful.
Steve Cooper
PS. Each successive layer of poly coating melts and bonds with the
previous coat. ...You knew that!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Cooper
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper"
<spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
I tried to iron mine a little in one tiny spot... NOT!!! I wouldn't
recommend it. It just rakes up the coating, leaving a mess. Remember the
little cartoon guy hanging himself next to the caution? Hey, don't feel
bad...it could happen to anyone. When you sand, try to stay off the
tapes, seams and stitch puckers. As far as fixing what you've
got...that's going to be pretty tough. If it really looks bad, try to
use MEK to strip off the coatings and tapes and start over.
Steve Cooper
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lmar
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Well, I just had to go a bit too far.... I gently sanded (like a bear)
my poly-brush surface tapes to ensure a smooth edge. I went too far and
upon sraying the poly-brush, the "sanded" strands can be seen. I was
told to go ahead and spray the poly spray (silver) and that should take
care of it. I used a whole quart on the elevator and it hasn't gone
down or otherwise hide my scratchings yet. I have not sanded the silver
yet, as it needs to dry overnight. I don't know if it will go away
after sanding, but I wanted to get some opinions on how to fix my
blunder so I don't loose more time.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
---------------------------------
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
Larry
Don't sweat it. The silver coat poly-spray sands wonderfully and will take
care of all those fibers. Just make sure you fully mix the poly-spray in
the can so you get all the solids suspended prior to spraying.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lmar
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Well, I just had to go a bit too far.... I gently sanded (like a bear) my
poly-brush surface tapes to ensure a smooth edge. I went too far and upon
sraying the poly-brush, the "sanded" strands can be seen. I was told to go
ahead and spray the poly spray (silver) and that should take care of it. I
used a whole quart on the elevator and it hasn't gone down or otherwise hide
my scratchings yet. I have not sanded the silver yet, as it needs to dry
overnight. I don't know if it will go away after sanding, but I wanted to
get some opinions on how to fix my blunder so I don't loose more time.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Replacing Windshield |
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 19:11:47 -0500
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
Jimmie,
Don't forget that I have that big roll of Lexan if you want it. Although I think
it is for a slower "Model II".
I think it is about.067 thick.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
Dave
I was kinda thinking about doing that, but I am concerned that the preformed
windshield might not match my cowling. Not knowing how the builder
approached the windshield cowling fit I was thinking that I might have
trouble with the lpaero windshield. When you built yours, did you match the
cowling to the windshield or windshield to cowling.
I would certainly rather have the preformed windshield if I could get it to
fit.
Appreciate your thoughts.
Jimmie
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com<mailto:david_savener@msn.com>>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com<mailto:david_savener@msn.com>>
>
> Jimmy,
>
> Consider a windshield made of plexiglass. Gasoline will mar lexan. It
crazes, etc. etc.
>
> I think LP Aero Plastics makes one for the Kitfox. There may be others.
I'll look through my receipts and get the exact name of the company.
>
> Dave S
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 11:23 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Fw: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
<jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net<mailto:jablackwell@ev1.net>>>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jimmie Blackwell
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
> Subject: Replacing Windshield
>
>
> I know this subject has been discussed before but do not remember all
the details.
>
> I need to replace my windshield and have some .125" Lexan. Seems that
there was a discussion as to whether the .125" is to thick for the bends
necessary of the Model IV.
>
> Would like to hear from anyone that used .125" Lexan and the results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Location |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
I tried both the vertical and whiskey dash mount on my 5 and ended up
using the SmartSingle Digital Compass with the remote fluxgate sensor located
at the right most side and top of my "glovebox". I also made sure the
higher current carrying wires were further away from that area.
Jeff Smathers
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 4/12/2005 11:36:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tinnemaha@hotmail.com writes:
>
> 1) - Mount the compass ~2" from my Garmin Panel mounted GPS/Comm
>
> 2) - Mount it ~6" from a King KT-76a Transponder AND right next to my
> quad gauge & intercom
>
> 3) - Cut another new panel & mount it on the far side of the panel
> where it will be difficult to read.
>
> Any help or suggestions are appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Grant
>
> Grant,
> This may turn out to be a big trial and error deal. Your panel might
> end up looking like Swiss cheese. I used a standard Whiskey type and tried
all
> different locations. No where on top of the glare shield worked all that
> great especially in the center where it looked the best. I ended up using a
> temporary suction cup mount and tried many spots to find the best location.
> That turned out to be about 3" above the throttle dead center of the panel.
> Was also about 3" or so below the GPS. I did not expect that final location
to
> be good at all but, it fooled me.
> You might consider building a small temp mount for the compass and do a
> similar search method. Of course, once you find a spot that works, then
> cutting through the panel might give you a big difference. Another option is
to
> trade in the panel mount for a standard Whiskey type.
>
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/ 582
>
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Whoa guys, I just realized we're talking about sanding Polybrush! Polybrush
doesn't have enough body to sand. That's what Polyspray is for.
You can use an iron on Polybrush up until the last spray coat. The only way
to get tapes down good. I've never had a pinked edge lift nor any roping.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve
Zakreski
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
Larry
Don't sweat it. The silver coat poly-spray sands wonderfully and will take
care of all those fibers. Just make sure you fully mix the poly-spray in
the can so you get all the solids suspended prior to spraying.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lmar
Subject: Kitfox-List: Polyfiber Help
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Well, I just had to go a bit too far.... I gently sanded (like a bear) my
poly-brush surface tapes to ensure a smooth edge. I went too far and upon
sraying the poly-brush, the "sanded" strands can be seen. I was told to go
ahead and spray the poly spray (silver) and that should take care of it. I
used a whole quart on the elevator and it hasn't gone down or otherwise hide
my scratchings yet. I have not sanded the silver yet, as it needs to dry
overnight. I don't know if it will go away after sanding, but I wanted to
get some opinions on how to fix my blunder so I don't loose more time.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
---------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Polyfiber Help |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
Larry,
I think it's best to iron the strands back into the polybrush before
proceeding. Take a piece of Teflon (available from polyfiber) and place it over
the
area of over-sanding. Then run the iron over the Teflon until the tapes are
re-buried into the polybrush. Do this with the minimal amount of heat
possible (start at 225 or so). If there is an absence of polybrush, spray some
on
so there is a bed for the strands to lie in. Then continue on with the
silver coat and carefully wet sand only if needed.
This process will secure the threads in the polybrush, but it probably won't
mask bad looking work to any great degree. If you do a careful job of
ironing though, it should come out looking good. Worst case -- you can always
start over with a new tape.
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 4/15/2005 5:04:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lcfitt@sbcglobal.net writes:
Lexan is tough stuff - it will not
break. Crack - yes, but the crack will propagate slowly over time.
Lowell,
Our old buddy Michael Harter once had his Lexan screen split wide open
from top to bottom. It was interesting because they wanted to call out the
fire trucks for his emergency landing. Once on the ground, they drilled a
bunch of holes on either side of the split and laced it up with lock wire. Then
put on a layer of clear tape. He was good to go for the next leg or two
until he made it home.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Yes, I remember this.
Lowell
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: windshields
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 4/15/2005 5:04:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> lcfitt@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> Lexan is tough stuff - it will not
> break. Crack - yes, but the crack will propagate slowly over time.
>
>
> Lowell,
> Our old buddy Michael Harter once had his Lexan screen split wide open
> from top to bottom. It was interesting because they wanted to call out
> the
> fire trucks for his emergency landing. Once on the ground, they drilled
> a
> bunch of holes on either side of the split and laced it up with lock
> wire. Then
> put on a layer of clear tape. He was good to go for the next leg or two
> until he made it home.
>
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
>
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