Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:31 AM - Re: Batteries (John Banes)
2. 06:52 AM - Re: Builder Tip (John Banes)
3. 11:54 AM - Re: Ellison Throttle body fuel pressure (Peter Graichen)
4. 02:13 PM - Vickers Vimy is on the way (David Dawe)
5. 02:43 PM - Re: Ellison Throttle body fuel pressure (Dee Young)
6. 03:22 PM - Re: kitfox-list: ellison throttle body fuel pressure (Jim Pekola)
7. 03:43 PM - Kitfox Wings (Jim Pekola)
8. 03:53 PM - Batteries (Rex & Jan Shaw)
9. 04:35 PM - Re: Kitfox Wings (Don Pearsall)
10. 06:25 PM - Odyssey batteries- tidbits for those interested in AGM batteries- or should be. (Stu Bryant)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
Rick,
I have the 625 as well and have had no problems.
John Banes
S-6 912S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Mdkitfox@aol.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Batteries
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
I know this was discussed some time ago, but what are the latest and
greatest batteries being used for a 912S Series V?
Do not archive.
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Banes" <JohnBanes@Adelphia.net>
Hello Mike,
That sounds like a great idea!
I started the reaming of each hole by hand. Then I used a thick piece of
vinyl tubing to connect the reamer to a piece of wood dowel that was chucked
in a variable speed drill. The tubing was heavy enough to transfer adequate
torque to the reamer while acting somewhat as a universal joint allowing the
needed offset due to the thickness of the drill.
I whish I would have thought of your procedure. A minimum it would have
made starting the reaming of each hole easier on the hands.
John Banes S-6 912S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Couillard
Subject: Kitfox-List: Builder Tip
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Mike Couillard"
<Mike.Couillard@aleutmgt.com>
Hi:
I've seen various tips on how to ream those 7 rather large bearings
(?... Don't have the book in front of me to recall the nomenclature) on
the back edge of the horizontal stabilizer, most of which involve
creating a long rod and connecting it somehow to this very large reamer.
I happened upon another idea when I was doing this last night (maybe
this has been tossed out there before, if so I apologize)--quite simple
and worked really well. I just took my Makita that accommodates a very
thin 4" metal cutting disk, clamped the reamer in a vise and cut a
groove in the center of the chuck end of the reamer. That allowed me to
use a long heavy duty screwdriver to turn the reamer in each of the
bearings (you have to carefully hold/guide the reamer with one hand
while turning the screwdriver with the other, until the reamer gets far
enough in to seat--doesn't take to long to get to that point).
Made a pretty quick job out of it. Hope this helps somebody out there.
Lord knows I've received a lot of help from y'all so far!
Mike C
Series 5 Colorado Springs
Message 3
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| Subject: | Ellison Throttle body fuel pressure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com>
Hi Dee:
Laid down some Seran wrap, then put down modeling clay and shaped it to the
desired shape. Then put down a couple of layers of fiber glass. After it
sets up, peel it off, trim, fill, sand & paint. Nothing to it!
Peter K. Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm
Hi Pete, looked at the photos on the web site. There is some excellent work
done on the plane. I would like to ask how you made the sweat looking wing
root fairing?
Thanks
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Message 4
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| Subject: | Vickers Vimy is on the way |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Dawe" <davedawe@3web.net>
from California to St.John's,Newfoundland,Canada
"Flight to recreate historic crossing in 1919"
follow the flight www.vimy.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lmar" <my93avid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: 582 problems
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
>
> Guys,
> My Blue Head with 100 Hrs was running great when I decarboned it and
returned to service. I used a new bae gasket and outer cylinder to head o
rings, but messed up my order and decided to re-use the inner cylinder o
rings. All was fine for the 1st 2hrs. One flight I noticed that the EGTs
were about 15-25 higher than normal, as was the water temp. The day was a
bit warmer than it had been, which I thought was odd. I headed back to the
field to land and decided to move the carb clip position. While doing so, I
saw that the rotary valve oil was overflowing a bit. Suspect the cap might
have been loose, I cleaned it up, and decided to vent the system again just
in case there was some air that I didn't get out the 1st time. The next
morning, I went to fly and the water temp went to 180F before I could even
take off. I decided to give it more power to see what would happen. It
very rapidly climbed to 200F. I went back to investigate. The water system
was fairly evenly
> hot, so
> I assume that the thermostat was open. I had pressure on the cap, and
when released it moved water. The vent line was open and fluid present.
(inverted engine) I tried it again, and it went from cold to 180F in 4 min
at 2500rpm. This time I left it and went home for the night. Next morning,
I checked the plugs to see if I had anti-freeze in the cylinder. None noted.
I notice that the rotary valve oil level changed again so this time I marked
it. I bought a new rad cap not expecting a difference and tried it again.
The engine took about 10 min to heat up to 190F. Better but not right. I
also noted that the rotary valve oil level increaed about 1/8-3/16" in the
10 min run. As I now sit here I wonder if I got the outlet/inlet tubes
installed wrong from the oil bottle. Any ideas on what might explain a
perfectly running engine to the signs I now have; which basicly occured
overnight?
> Thanks,
> Larry
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
> --
>
>
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle body fuel pressure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Thanks Pete
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Graichen<mailto:n10pg@neo.rr.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 12:54 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Ellison Throttle body fuel pressure
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg@neo.rr.com<mailto:n10pg@neo.rr.com>>
Hi Dee:
Laid down some Seran wrap, then put down modeling clay and shaped it to the
desired shape. Then put down a couple of layers of fiber glass. After it
sets up, peel it off, trim, fill, sand & paint. Nothing to it!
Peter K. Graichen
http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm<http://home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm>
Hi Pete, looked at the photos on the web site. There is some excellent work
done on the plane. I would like to ask how you made the sweat looking wing
root fairing?
Thanks
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Message 6
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| Subject: | re: kitfox-list: ellison throttle body fuel pressure |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jim Pekola" <jimpekola@earthlink.net>
Bud,
I had a fuel pressure problem with my Jabiru 2200. The stock fuel pump provided
too much pressure and would flood the motor. The fuel would drain out of the
air filter, and my fuel pressure gauge would read five or six pounds. I went
down to the local auto parts store and bought a fuel pressure regulator for $35.
The pressure gauge is adjustable, so I set it for 2.5 pounds and I haven't
had a problem since.
Jim Pekola
jimpekola@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jim Pekola" <jimpekola@earthlink.net>
I have a question for you....does anybody know the effect of switching the cambered
wing of a Kitfox model III to the model IV wing, which is more symmetrical?
Would I have to change the attachment points on the elevator to compensate
for the different pitching moment?
Next question...has anybody ever completely changed the Kitfox wing to an airfoil
with a deeper cord, such as a Harry Riblett GA 30-613.5 with a 50 inch cord?
I'm looking for more square footage with less wing span.
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Pekola
jimpekola@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Then go here for a good price!
https://www.batteries4everything.com/index.html
Sonex builders go here for Jabiru and AeroVee batteries - Odessy 625 or 680.
I have the 625 for my Jab 3300, and it's still very strong after 2 winters.
Holds charge extremely well.
Cheers,
bh
> Check out the 625 at: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/
Just wanted to say I had a brand new normal flooded wet cell motorcycle
battery for my 582 but it never was very good. I swapped to an Odessey 625
and it's amazing. I am an electronics tech and studied these batteries a bit
first as one always hears someones favorite brand in something or other is
the best but it turns out to be nothing more than personal preference. Well
these Odessey batteries are actually different. They are what they call
absorbed glass mat or recumbent and some other names. They do have different
characteristics like low internal resistance that allows them to give
considerably more boot for starting. They also don't discharge at any where
near the same rate while standing idle. They are sealed and need no box and
can be mounted even upside down. Actually apparently you can break the case
and it won't leak and it still works.
There is other brands of the same type of battery and probably they also are
just as good. However I know of five Odessey's in service and every one is
amazed at there performance.
I live in Australia and our price here was double what it cost me to import
one all costs included from batteries4everything. Also they are easilly
shipped being classed as a dry cell.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Jim, Welcome to the Kitfox List! I am sure you will get some good answers
for your wing question. I am not too familiar with the KF III wing, but it
is very concave on the underside. The Model IV and up wings have some
concave-ness to them, but not as much.
There are some KF and Avid wing experts, such as John Larson on this list,
so maybe he will see your post and chime in.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Pekola
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox Wings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jim Pekola" <jimpekola@earthlink.net>
I have a question for you....does anybody know the effect of switching the
cambered wing of a Kitfox model III to the model IV wing, which is more
symmetrical? Would I have to change the attachment points on the elevator to
compensate for the different pitching moment?
Next question...has anybody ever completely changed the Kitfox wing to an
airfoil with a deeper cord, such as a Harry Riblett GA 30-613.5 with a 50
inch cord? I'm looking for more square footage with less wing span.
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Pekola
jimpekola@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Odyssey batteries- tidbits for those interested in AGM batteries- |
or should be.
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Stu Bryant" <s.j.bryant@sbcglobal.net>
One one hand I am amazed at a couple of the boasts on their website which I
believe are a bit exaggerated, but this Odyssey battery (or equivalent
competitor's battery- and there ARE a few competitors who have a fully equal
or functionally equal product) is by all means the right way to go! And as
they say, NO these are not a GEL CELL.
Gel cell batteries are NOT nearly as appropriate as an AGM battery in any
sort of vehicle. While there are some similarities, there are some
significant differences. And some dealers don't even bother to get the
terminology straight. You will never regret using this AGM type of battery.
One note: although you MAY indeed mount it any which way including upside
down, you will lose a little capacity if you do. They still prefer being
right side up. Get it as close as you can to vertical for best results. And
if it won't fit that way? Don't worry about it- you won't lose more than
about 15% capacity at worst.
One other note: particularly since these indeed pack the ability to drain
more rapidly- in other words more readily able to spin a starter even though
not a physically large battery- resist the temptation to test it by
'sparking' your jumper cables together. You might not like the results of
trying that. It is never a good idea to short circuit any battery, much less
an AGM. If you weld the cable's clamps together the cable will be white hot
in a fraction of a second, it the clamps do not weld then you'll at least
vaporize a bit of them and leave a pit. Won't do the battery any favors
either, tough as they are.
I may not be building a kitfox yet, but deep cycle batteries IS something
I've worked with for a number of years. No I do not sell them, though my
passion for the right battery for the job is much like my passion for using
the correct tool for the job. I use AGM on my boat and to power my ham radio
station. I like them for use in autos too, although not with quite the same
fervor. They are superior for use in RV's also (for those who can afford
such luxury :-). They are quite popular in solar power systems and are
basically the only option for the few all electric cars on the road.
These battery people need to get their product names straight- Orbital,
Optima, Odyssey similar sounding names and all are AGM batteries from
different manufacturers which do the same thing. There are also a number of
other AGM manufacturers (Rolls/Surrette, Deka/MK, Trojan, etc. etc.) who
make from wee small to locomotive starting size, and so long as you don't
store them drained and do not chronically overcharge you'll be thrilled with
the results.
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