Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:10 AM - Re: Bearing sealant (Greaves)
2. 01:35 AM - Re: Bearing sealant (Greaves)
3. 02:03 AM - Light weight low cost four stroke engines, good Rotax replacements. (David James)
4. 03:41 AM - Re: Tailwheel Steering springs (Fox5flyer)
5. 06:07 AM - Re: Prop tape (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
6. 06:37 AM - Re: Prop tape (kitfox@gto.net)
7. 07:07 AM - Re: Bearing sealant (David James)
8. 07:22 AM - Re: Prop tape (David James)
9. 07:25 AM - Re: Prop tape (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
10. 07:35 AM - Re: Prop tape (David James)
11. 08:02 AM - Three drops landing. WAS: Three Point Landings (Michel Verheughe)
12. 08:03 AM - Singing in the rain (Michel Verheughe)
13. 08:13 AM - Young Kitfox pilot. WAS: Tailwheel Steering springs (Michel Verheughe)
14. 08:25 AM - Re: Tailwheel Steering springs (jdmcbean)
15. 09:44 AM - Re: Prop tape (ron schick)
16. 10:02 AM - Re: Prop tape (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
17. 10:31 AM - Re: Bearing sealant (N81JG@aol.com)
18. 11:00 AM - sun (Alan Daniels)
19. 11:11 AM - A Fitting Question (Donna and Roger McConnell)
20. 11:20 AM - Re: sun (Don Pearsall)
21. 11:39 AM - Re: A Fitting Question (Alan Daniels)
22. 12:27 PM - Re: A Fitting Question (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
23. 02:22 PM - Re: sun (skyflyte@comcast.net)
24. 02:48 PM - Re: A Fitting Question (Lowell Fitt)
25. 02:54 PM - Re: Prop tape (Lowell Fitt)
26. 03:52 PM - Re: A Fitting Question (Donna and Roger McConnell)
27. 05:39 PM - Re: sun (David James)
28. 05:43 PM - Re: sun (David James)
29. 05:44 PM - Re: A Fitting Question (kirk hull)
30. 06:45 PM - COME ON OVER! (RAY Gignac)
31. 07:56 PM - Re: Prop tape (David James)
32. 09:38 PM - Re: Young Kitfox pilot. WAS: Tailwheel Steering springs (Andrew Matthaey)
33. 10:20 PM - Re: Prop tape (jimshumaker)
34. 10:20 PM - Re: Prop tape (jimshumaker)
35. 10:25 PM - Re: Singing in the rain (jimshumaker)
36. 10:28 PM - Re: Prop tape (jimshumaker)
37. 10:51 PM - Re: Prop tape (Jim Crowder)
38. 11:00 PM - Re: Jab report (kurt schrader)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bearing sealant |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Greaves" <tenorio41@comcast.net>
yes
----- Original Message -----
From: <N81JG@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bearing sealant
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: N81JG@aol.com
>
> Is this for the bronze bushings that go in the elevator tubes and the an3
> or
> 4 bolts go through?
>
> Dad
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Bearing sealant |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Greaves" <tenorio41@comcast.net>
I found the product number...it's Loctite rc680 and their part number
37485...looks like some bike repair shops online carry it but wondering what
else can be used that is easier to find locally.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Wadetc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bearing sealant
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wadetc@aol.com
>
> Try Lock Tite bearing lock
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Light weight low cost four stroke engines, good Rotax replacements. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyGeo_uncensored
I thought this would be interesting for people on this group.
The Geo/Suzuki one litre engine weighs a little more than a Rotax
582, it produces 62 HP normally aspirated but with a better, flatter
torque curve.
Both bolt on gearbox and cog belt redrives and all other aircraft
conversion parts are available for very reasonable cost. Turbo
versions are available also. Gearbox type redrives for around US$1750-
The Geo/Suzuki engine uses about half the fuel that the two stroke
engines use.
The 1.3 litre four cylinder Suzuki engine beats the Rotax 912 in
power and weight, again both gearbox and belt type redrives are
available.
All those advantages plus flying engines with the hours up to prove
them and last but not lease, far, far cheaper than a Rotax.
There is a Yahoo group about these fantastic little engines used in
aircraft, it is a very active and helpful group.
One person on the group has over 1000 hours on one installation.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyGeo_uncensored
__________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Steering springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Correct. That's why I'd recommend keeping them tight.
Deke
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> Loose Springs
> - sloppy tail wheel steering
> - easy breakout
>
> Tight Springs
> - tighter more predictable steering
> - more effort to break out
>
> Seems to me that "loose" increases the chance of breakout induced ground
loop....
>
> John Kerr
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
> >
> > Good questions, but why is tension on the springs not a good idea?
> > You'll find there are as many opinions on this topic as 3pt vs wheel
> > landings so you'll have to separate the wheat from the chaff and decide
for
> > yourself which is best for you. Makes no diff whether model I or VII.
> >
> > Loose Springs
> > - sloppy tail wheel steering
> > - easy breakout
> >
> > Tight Springs
> > - tighter more predictable steering
> > - more effort to break out
> >
> > Personally I like my springs with no slack so that when I push on the
rudder
> > peddle the tailwheel turns at the same rate. More predictable to me. As
> > for compression vs tension type springs, it's my experience that it
makes no
> > difference. However, with tension springs, if you have your chains loose
> > you have a greater chance of slinging a spring.
> > Deke
> >
> > > What is best for a model II? Normal springs or compression springs?
> > >
> > > I have had a few high speed excursions from the runway (luckily onto
> > > taxiways) and would like get the optimum control from my tailwheel.
> > > Previously the springs were slack, but I tightened so they were always
> > under
> > > tension (little play), but I have heard say this not a good idea!
> > >
> > > Pete.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Loose Springs
> - sloppy tail wheel steering
> - easy breakout
>
> Tight Springs
> - tighter more predictable steering
> - more effort to break out
>
> Seems to me that "loose" increases the chance of breakout induced ground
loop....
>
> John Kerr
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <MORID@NORTHLAND.LIB.MI.US>
>
> Good questions, but why is tension on the springs not a good idea?
> You'll find there are as many opinions on this topic as 3pt vs wheel
> landings so you'll have to separate the wheat from the chaff and decide
for
> yourself which is best for you. Makes no diff whether model I or VII.
>
> Loose Springs
> - sloppy tail wheel steering
> - easy breakout
>
> Tight Springs
> - tighter more predictable steering
> - more effort to break out
>
> Personally I like my springs with no slack so that when I push on the
rudder
> peddle the tailwheel turns at the same rate. More predictable to me. As
> for compression vs tension type springs, it's
> my experience that it makes no
> difference. However, with tension springs, if you have your chains loose
> you have a greater chance of slinging a spring.
> Deke
>
> What is best for a model II? Normal springs or compression springs?
>
> I have had a few high speed excursions from the runway (luckily onto
> taxiways) and would like get the optimum control from my tailwheel.
> Previously the springs were slack, but I tightened so they were always
> under
> tension (little play), but I have heard say this not a good idea!
>
> Pete.
>
>
> arch Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
>
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2005 1:24:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
Thanks Don
That confirms why spray can paint works so well. The epoxy they use is
actually clear. The black is for UV protection.
Jim Shumaker
Jim,
Actually, they mentioned on the phone that their epoxy/carbon fiber was
also black but they used the flat black lacquer for better looks. I guess
that's not very important.
Do Not Archive
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
Don,
What kind of performance numbers do you get with the warp prop?
I have a gsc wooden one and it seems pretty decent. I would like to
compare others numbers with a 582 c box 3 to 1 ratio. I am always
looking or efficient mods. What other pros and cons are they for gsc
vs. WARP or IVO ? Has anyone actually charted these numbers?
Kirby
Jim,
> Actually, they mentioned on the phone that their epoxy/carbon
fiber was
> also black but they used the flat black lacquer for better looks. I
guess
> that's not very important.
>
> Do Not Archive
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/ 582
>
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
--- Rick <turboflyer@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>
> Check 3M. They have a web site and list of products. It sounds like it
> might
> be the same as stud locker but I am not sure.
>
> Rick
Why not just look up Locktite?
__________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
--- AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 5/28/2005 1:24:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> Thanks Don
>
> That confirms why spray can paint works so well. The epoxy they use is
>
> actually clear. The black is for UV protection.
>
> Jim Shumaker
UV doesn't harm epoxy, think of all the clear epoxy/carbon products you
come across. I think the paint is to cover up flaws in the prop.
__________________________________
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2005 9:40:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kitfox@gto.net writes:
Don,
What kind of performance numbers do you get with the warp prop?
I have a gsc wooden one and it seems pretty decent. I would like to
compare others numbers with a 582 c box 3 to 1 ratio. I am always
looking or efficient mods. What other pros and cons are they for gsc
vs. WARP or IVO ? Has anyone actually charted these numbers?
Looking back, I think I picked up a good honest 5+ MPH when I went from the
GSC to the Warp. Was around 80-85 MPH now 85-90 MPH. A con to the GSC is
the possibility of crushing the wooden hubs by overtorqueing. I think that is
what happened to my GSC. It was used so I don't know what the other owner
might have done. A pro for the Warp is the ability to repair in case of a
minor prop strike. This also happened to me. Warp fixed my blades for around
$80. I think a GSC would have splintered. Another pro for the Warp is, it's
easier to adjust the blades. They adjust the same way as the GSC but they
turn easier in their hubs. My GSC hubs became a bit oblong in shape (possible
overtorqueing or not). When you tighten the GSC, they wanted to turn a bit
in the hub and go back to their normal set.
I have no experience with the Ivo. There was a time (way back) when
the Warp appeared to be the prop of choice over Ivo. Don't know if this has
changed or not.
The above 80-90 MPH numbers are based of several factors and it's hard
to compare one Kitfox to another. Pitch, jetting, drag, props are all
different. I once got around 95 MPH in cruise. However, the prop was way
overpitched and not good for the engine. I bet these comments will get me a blast.
personal opinion/observation only
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
--- kitfox@gto.net wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
>
> Don,
>
> What kind of performance numbers do you get with the warp prop?
> I have a gsc wooden one and it seems pretty decent. I would like to
> compare others numbers with a 582 c box 3 to 1 ratio. I am always
> looking or efficient mods. What other pros and cons are they for gsc
> vs. WARP or IVO ? Has anyone actually charted these numbers?
>
>
> Kirby
I use Warp props for years, never again. The last prop I bought was a
Bolly, beautiful curved shape with real twist built in. It gives more
thrust and everyone tells me it's a lot quieter. Similar price to a Warp
Drive too.
On another group a bloke compared one of the Russian/Ukrain props (Again a
beautiful curved shape with twist) against an Ivo and his actual numbers
before and after were far better with the Russian prop. I dont know the
price of the russian props though. The Warp and Ivo props are like a piece
of junk wood compared to those "Real" props. One other thing about the
Bolly prop, the blades fit Warp drive hubs so if you have a WD hub you can
save some money. I dont know if the Russian/Ukrain props fit the Warp
Drive hub though.
__________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
Message 11
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| Subject: | Three drops landing. WAS: Three Point Landings |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Lynn Matteson wrote:
> ...gin (and) tonic? Now yer talkin' my language, Michel!
He, he! I drink very seldom, Lynn. A glass of wine with a good meal, never more.
But my father told us, when we were kids, that - as an instructor on the C-119
Flying Boxcar, he used to put a glass of water on the glareshield and ask the
trainee to land without spilling one drop. Later, looking at the slooped
glareshield of the C-119, I wondered if my father (who passed away in 1986) was
just making it up. Or maybe it was on the central console and I mixed it up.
Has anyone heard of an instructor doing that in any plane?
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Singing in the rain |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
... or rather, flying in the rain.
I have been told that my wooden prop doesn't like too much flying in the rain.
At near the speed of the sound, water will "sandblast" the prop. However, I was
told that if the rain was not too dense and that I kept a relatively low RPM, I
could get away with it.
I have no intention to fly in rain. First, it reduces dramatically the
visibility. Second, my Kitfox is far from being watertight.
But, if I am up there and a light rain shower comes on my path, should I
navigate around it, or just take it but carefully?
How bad could I damage my prop? I have a fixed pitch two-bladed Jabiru prop
that has some kind of black rubber leading edge, otherwise, varnished.
Thanks in advance,
Michel
Message 13
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| Subject: | Young Kitfox pilot. WAS: Tailwheel Steering springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Andrew Matthaey wrote:
> I am a new Kitfox 3 owner, and new to this group
Hello Andrew. I bought a second hand Kitfox 3 two and half years ago and,
although I don't have more total flying time than you (nearly all of it on the
Kitfox) I am old enough to be your father ... almost your grand-father! :-)
It means that you have a lifetime ahead with the joy of Kitfox and aviation.
I am pretty sure that, at your age, the Kitfox knowledge will come pretty fast.
In Norway, we say that the average time to first solo flight on microlight
aircraft is ten hours plus one hour per age above 40. True enough, I flew solo
after 27 hours.
Being on this list is certainly your best way to become acquainted with your
plane in a safe manner. I know it helped me a lot.
Best regards from Norway ... where we've had the wettest and coldest May in a
man's memory. Please, can anyone help me remember how the sun looks like? :-)
Michel
Message 14
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| Subject: | Tailwheel Steering springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Andrew,
Welcome to the group and Kitfox Flying.. You'll love it. Where are you
located ??
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andrew Matthaey
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tailwheel Steering springs
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey"
<spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
I am a new Kitfox 3 owner, and new to this group -
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Jim and Don I was told to paint the back side of my aluminum prop flat black
for glare protection, and the front shiny for looks. Don't know if this is
the basis of flat black or not. I did it because the IA "suggested" that was
how to do it on my spam can. Ron
>From: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop tape
>Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 09:06:32 EDT
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 5/28/2005 1:24:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
>Thanks Don
>
>That confirms why spray can paint works so well. The epoxy they use is
>actually clear. The black is for UV protection.
>
>Jim Shumaker
>
>
>Jim,
> Actually, they mentioned on the phone that their epoxy/carbon fiber
>was
>also black but they used the flat black lacquer for better looks. I guess
>that's not very important.
>
>Do Not Archive
>Don Smythe
>Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 5/28/2005 12:46:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
roncarolnikko@hotmail.com writes:
Jim and Don I was told to paint the back side of my aluminum prop flat black
for glare protection, and the front shiny for looks. Don't know if this is
the basis of flat black or not. I did it because the IA "suggested" that was
how to do it on my spam can. Ron
I think that is a pretty standard idea. Also see a lot of engine cowl tops
painted flat black. However, this does bring up a thought. Painting
propellers can throw off the balance. I made a homemade balancer way back and
tested my GSC. I ended up spraying a little clear Polyurethane on one blade to
help in balancing. I was surprised to see it make a difference. This might be
apples and oranges but every little bit helps.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bearing sealant |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: N81JG@aol.com
Wade,
Kitfox should designate the sealant # for the bronze bearings.
Check out this Loctite site and bearing fit # 641.
_http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=loctite+bearing+sealant&spell=1
_
(http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=loctite+bearing+sealant&spell=1)
D
VariEze N81JG
Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
It is perfect flying weather here. Nice sun, 100 mile visibility, cool
mountain air. We have nice sun here, but the people in the southwest
really have sun. It is so strong and hot that it would probably put a
northern boy like me in shock, might kill you.
Michel my offer from a few years ago still stands. Anytime you can make
it to my part of the would the vacation and flying is on me.
Alan
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>
>Best regards from Norway ... where we've had the wettest and coldest May in a
>man's memory. Please, can anyone help me remember how the sun looks like? :-)
>
>Michel
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | A Fitting Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
I was asked by our local FBO the other day about hose fittings
on the ends of oil cooler and or fuel lines. His way of thinking is that
these fittings had to be AN fittings that barbed fittings with a hose clamp
were not adequate. Is he right? I explained to him that this is a homebuilt
and not a certified aircraft. He said that I needed to get with a DAR and
find out just what will be acceptable and what won't. I would like to here
comment from others on this. Do I need all hose fittings to be AN or is the
barbed fittings with a good clamp acceptable for homebuilts.
Roger Mac
N619RM (98% complete, 98% to go)
Message 20
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Michel, here in Seattle we just broke an all-time heat record of 88 degrees
F. I had forgotten what the sun was too, as for much of the year it is cool
and dark and gray and wet. I can actually see in color now!
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Daniels
Subject: Kitfox-List: sun
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
It is perfect flying weather here. Nice sun, 100 mile visibility, cool
mountain air. We have nice sun here, but the people in the southwest
really have sun. It is so strong and hot that it would probably put a
northern boy like me in shock, might kill you.
Michel my offer from a few years ago still stands. Anytime you can make
it to my part of the would the vacation and flying is on me.
Alan
Michel Verheughe wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>
>Best regards from Norway ... where we've had the wettest and coldest May in
a
>man's memory. Please, can anyone help me remember how the sun looks like?
:-)
>
>Michel
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: A Fitting Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
The Rotax engine comes with barbed fittings for the oil and fuel. Just
make sure you are using the correct type hose. On the 912 the oil lines
are suction hoses, not pressure hoses. The hose must not collapses in
suction when hot. Skystar and Rotax really do know what they are doing.
On the fuel line I think it is very important to route them so if you
have a exhaust break anywhere it will not burn the hose off. Firesleave
the fuel line in addition to correct routing. Firesleave kept me from
becoming a burning lawn dart when an exhaust broke right next to a fuel
line. The legal requirements are not like a certified plane. You can use
hardware bolts if you are craze enough to do it. I use a lot of race car
items from www.jegs.com because it is good stuff and it cost less. AN
not required.
Alan
Donna and Roger McConnell wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
>
> I was asked by our local FBO the other day about hose fittings
>on the ends of oil cooler and or fuel lines. His way of thinking is that
>these fittings had to be AN fittings that barbed fittings with a hose clamp
>were not adequate. Is he right? I explained to him that this is a homebuilt
>and not a certified aircraft. He said that I needed to get with a DAR and
>find out just what will be acceptable and what won't. I would like to here
>comment from others on this. Do I need all hose fittings to be AN or is the
>barbed fittings with a good clamp acceptable for homebuilts.
>
>
> Roger Mac
>
> N619RM (98% complete, 98% to go)
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: A Fitting Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> I was asked by our local FBO the other day about hose fittings
>on the ends of oil cooler and or fuel lines. His way of thinking is that
>these fittings had to be AN fittings that barbed fittings with a hose clamp
>were not adequate. Is he right? I explained to him that this is a homebuilt
He is wrong. I think a lot of these FBO's, A&P's, long time Pilots that
have never been involved in Exp aircraft just simply apply what they have
seen on Certified aircraft. The use of good AN hardware is certainly advised.
I have another opinion on the barbed fittings. Once a hose is pushed
onto a barb fitting, it "almost" doesn't even need a clamp (seals good). Also,
"I believe" a hose should be pushed onto a barbed fitting only once. When
it gets removed for any reason, it tends to "tear" the inside of the hose
causing a good spot for small rubber particles to be torn loose and end up in
the
Carb. So, if you pull one off for any reason, either trim the end to expose
new hose or replace it. If you have a hose that needs disconnecting
regularly, use the AN type.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: skyflyte@comcast.net
And here in New England, and Maine especially, we have had 5 rained out weekends
in a row. And the last 7 days were all rain, about 5" of it. But today it cleared,
the sun reappeared, and everyone is trying to make it summer! Now we
can go flying!
Mike
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan Daniels
>
> It is perfect flying weather here. Nice sun, 100 mile visibility, cool
> mountain air. We have nice sun here, but the people in the southwest
> really have sun. It is so strong and hot that it would probably put a
> northern boy like me in shock, might kill you.
And here in New England, and Maine especially, we have had 5 rained out weekends
in a row. And the last 7 days were all rain, about 5" of it. But today it cleared,
the sun reappeared, and everyone is trying to make it summer! Now we can
go flying!
Mike
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan Daniels <ALDANIELS@FMTC.COM>
It is perfect flying weather here. Nice sun, 100 mile visibility, cool
mountain air. We have nice sun here, but the people in the southwest
really have sun. It is so strong and hot that it would probably put a
northern boy like me in shock, might kill you.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: A Fitting Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Roger,
When visiting Skystar a couple of weeks ago, Frank estimated that there were
approximately 4800 kitfox kits out there. If only 50% were flying, my guess
would be that the FAA or numerous DARs found the kits built according to
plan were OK for the airworthiness certificate. Mine has barbs and clamps.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: A Fitting Question
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
> <rdmac@swbell.net>
>
> I was asked by our local FBO the other day about hose fittings
> on the ends of oil cooler and or fuel lines. His way of thinking is that
> these fittings had to be AN fittings that barbed fittings with a hose
> clamp
> were not adequate. Is he right? I explained to him that this is a
> homebuilt
> and not a certified aircraft. He said that I needed to get with a DAR and
> find out just what will be acceptable and what won't. I would like to here
> comment from others on this. Do I need all hose fittings to be AN or is
> the
> barbed fittings with a good clamp acceptable for homebuilts.
>
>
> Roger Mac
>
> N619RM (98% complete, 98% to go)
>
>
>
Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
>> In a message dated 5/28/2005 1:24:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
>>
>> Thanks Don
>>
>> That confirms why spray can paint works so well. The epoxy they use is
>>
>> actually clear. The black is for UV protection.
>>
>> Jim Shumaker
>
> UV doesn't harm epoxy, think of all the clear epoxy/carbon products you
> come across. I think the paint is to cover up flaws in the prop.
I don't think the latter is an accurate statement. I found this in the West
Systems page. Consider that they are largely in the boating industry where
is lots of sun and they if anyone would be up to date on UV exposure.
Quote:
"This hardener was especially developed for use with WEST SYSTEM Brand 105
Resin in coating applications where an exceptionally clear,
moisture-resistant, natural wood finish is desired. Cures to a light amber
color, similar to traditional spar varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibiting
additive improves the resistance of a WEST SYSTEM 105/207 mixture to
sunlight, but the cured epoxy surface will still require the additional
protection of a quality UV-filtering varnish. 207 is designed to self level
for smooth finishes, and to wet-out and bond fabrics. Although it provides
good physical properties for general bonding applications, it is more
difficult to thicken and less cost effective for this purpose than 205 or
206 Hardeners. It's also used for laminating veneers where bleed through at
joints may be exposed to sunlight."
Lowell
Message 26
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| Subject: | A Fitting Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
I totally agree Don,
This guy owns and operates nothing but certified aircraft and knows
nothing about the experimental side. That sounds like good advice on barbed
fittings. I'll remember that.
Roger Mac
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: A Fitting Question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> I was asked by our local FBO the other day about hose fittings
>on the ends of oil cooler and or fuel lines. His way of thinking is that
>these fittings had to be AN fittings that barbed fittings with a hose
clamp
>were not adequate. Is he right? I explained to him that this is a
homebuilt
He is wrong. I think a lot of these FBO's, A&P's, long time Pilots that
have never been involved in Exp aircraft just simply apply what they have
seen on Certified aircraft. The use of good AN hardware is certainly
advised.
I have another opinion on the barbed fittings. Once a hose is pushed
onto a barb fitting, it "almost" doesn't even need a clamp (seals good).
Also,
"I believe" a hose should be pushed onto a barbed fitting only once. When
it gets removed for any reason, it tends to "tear" the inside of the hose
causing a good spot for small rubber particles to be torn loose and end up
in the
Carb. So, if you pull one off for any reason, either trim the end to
expose
new hose or replace it. If you have a hose that needs disconnecting
regularly, use the AN type.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 27
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
>Best regards from Norway ... where we've had the wettest and coldest
May in a
>man's memory. Please, can anyone help me remember how the sun looks
like? :-)
>
>Michel
Well I am in the south east corner of Australia, the cold part, and it's
now winter here. We have been having sunny days around 20 degrees C (About
70 F for you non metric people) although the last couple of days it has
rained.
What is that snow stuff I hear you people talking about?
David
__________________________________
Message 28
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
--- Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
> <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
> Michel, here in Seattle we just broke an all-time heat record of 88
> degrees
> F. I had forgotten what the sun was too, as for much of the year it is
> cool
> and dark and gray and wet. I can actually see in color now!
>
> Don Pearsall
Don, for us 88 deg. F is pleasantly warm for summer.
BTW I have been to Seattle, you have some of our old trams
(Trollys/Streetcars, not sure what you call them) running around down near
the docks. Nice city, I liked it.
David
__________________________________
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | A Fitting Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kirk hull" <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
An expermental aircraft can use any parts they want. Certified hardware is
not required as it would be impossibe to find Aircraft fitting that would
fit on automotive fluid lines as the flairs are at a different angle. Not
all A&Ps are familiar with homebuilts.
Kirk hull A&P
Suberu powered IV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: A Fitting Question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> I was asked by our local FBO the other day about hose fittings
>on the ends of oil cooler and or fuel lines. His way of thinking is that
>these fittings had to be AN fittings that barbed fittings with a hose
clamp
>were not adequate. Is he right? I explained to him that this is a
homebuilt
He is wrong. I think a lot of these FBO's, A&P's, long time Pilots that
have never been involved in Exp aircraft just simply apply what they have
seen on Certified aircraft. The use of good AN hardware is certainly
advised.
I have another opinion on the barbed fittings. Once a hose is pushed
onto a barb fitting, it "almost" doesn't even need a clamp (seals good).
Also,
"I believe" a hose should be pushed onto a barbed fitting only once. When
it gets removed for any reason, it tends to "tear" the inside of the hose
causing a good spot for small rubber particles to be torn loose and end up
in the
Carb. So, if you pull one off for any reason, either trim the end to
expose
new hose or replace it. If you have a hose that needs disconnecting
regularly, use the AN type.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 30
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
On Saturday June 4th, freeway airport/woo located in Mitchellville Maryland will
be having it's yearly BBQ and lots of talk and good old fun. I have my Model
IV based at this airport. All the folks here are crazy over the Kitfox, so
I would like to invite other kitfoxers to fly on over have some hotdogs and burgers,
sodas and show off your plane. We are in the ADIZ but not a problem, I
fly here all the time. OOOO, If you can make it Noon would be a good time to
fly in. Just look for my bright yellow, blue and red Fox!
Ray Gignac
Message 31
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
--- Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
>
> >> In a message dated 5/28/2005 1:24:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
> >>
> >> Thanks Don
> >>
> >> That confirms why spray can paint works so well. The epoxy they use
> is
> >>
> >> actually clear. The black is for UV protection.
> >>
> >> Jim Shumaker
> >
> > UV doesn't harm epoxy, think of all the clear epoxy/carbon products
> you
> > come across. I think the paint is to cover up flaws in the prop.
>
> I don't think the latter is an accurate statement. I found this in the
> West
> Systems page. Consider that they are largely in the boating industry
> where
> is lots of sun and they if anyone would be up to date on UV exposure.
>
> Quote:
> "This hardener was especially developed for use with WEST SYSTEM Brand
> 105
> Resin in coating applications where an exceptionally clear,
> moisture-resistant, natural wood finish is desired. Cures to a light
> amber
> color, similar to traditional spar varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibiting
> additive improves the resistance of a WEST SYSTEM 105/207 mixture to
> sunlight, but the cured epoxy surface will still require the additional
> protection of a quality UV-filtering varnish. 207 is designed to self
> level
> for smooth finishes, and to wet-out and bond fabrics. Although it
> provides
> good physical properties for general bonding applications, it is more
> difficult to thicken and less cost effective for this purpose than 205
> or
> 206 Hardeners. It's also used for laminating veneers where bleed through
> at
> joints may be exposed to sunlight."
>
> Lowell
What can I say? I was wrong, sorry. My memory was playing tricks on me.
David
__________________________________
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/mobile.html
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Young Kitfox pilot. WAS: Tailwheel Steering springs |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey" <spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
Thanks Michel for the warm welcome from Norway!
I flew another .3 today in some 10kt shifty winds - tried landing on the
asphalt but went around at the last minute...looked like I was gonna slam
her down and fold the gear. I landed on the grass instead for a
picture-perfect (if not wet) landing. I had the doors open, and the grass
was soaked (wettest May I've ever heard of too!) and I got muddy along with
the underside of my wings :)
Andrew
>From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Young Kitfox pilot. WAS: Tailwheel Steering springs
>Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:12:45 +0200
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>Andrew Matthaey wrote:
> > I am a new Kitfox 3 owner, and new to this group
>
>Hello Andrew. I bought a second hand Kitfox 3 two and half years ago and,
>although I don't have more total flying time than you (nearly all of it on
>the
>Kitfox) I am old enough to be your father ... almost your grand-father! :-)
>It means that you have a lifetime ahead with the joy of Kitfox and
>aviation.
>
>I am pretty sure that, at your age, the Kitfox knowledge will come pretty
>fast.
>In Norway, we say that the average time to first solo flight on microlight
>aircraft is ten hours plus one hour per age above 40. True enough, I flew
>solo
>after 27 hours.
>
>Being on this list is certainly your best way to become acquainted with
>your
>plane in a safe manner. I know it helped me a lot.
>
>Best regards from Norway ... where we've had the wettest and coldest May in
>a
>man's memory. Please, can anyone help me remember how the sun looks like?
>:-)
>
>Michel
>
>
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Lowell
The way my name precedes the statement about UV it looks like maybe I said
that "UV does not harm epoxy". I appreciate your keeping us straight on
these issues. I hope you do not associate me with making such a statement.
UV absolutely does deteriorate epoxies.
Thank you for your input on this.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop tape
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: David James <austgrains@yahoo.com>
>
>>> In a message dated 5/28/2005 1:24:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>>> jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
>>>
>>> Thanks Don
>>>
>>> That confirms why spray can paint works so well. The epoxy they use is
>>>
>>> actually clear. The black is for UV protection.
>>>
>>> Jim Shumaker
>>
>> UV doesn't harm epoxy, think of all the clear epoxy/carbon products you
>> come across. I think the paint is to cover up flaws in the prop.
>
> I don't think the latter is an accurate statement. I found this in the
> West
> Systems page. Consider that they are largely in the boating industry where
> is lots of sun and they if anyone would be up to date on UV exposure.
>
> Quote:
> "This hardener was especially developed for use with WEST SYSTEM Brand 105
> Resin in coating applications where an exceptionally clear,
> moisture-resistant, natural wood finish is desired. Cures to a light amber
> color, similar to traditional spar varnishes. An ultraviolet inhibiting
> additive improves the resistance of a WEST SYSTEM 105/207 mixture to
> sunlight, but the cured epoxy surface will still require the additional
> protection of a quality UV-filtering varnish. 207 is designed to self
> level
> for smooth finishes, and to wet-out and bond fabrics. Although it provides
> good physical properties for general bonding applications, it is more
> difficult to thicken and less cost effective for this purpose than 205 or
> 206 Hardeners. It's also used for laminating veneers where bleed through
> at
> joints may be exposed to sunlight."
>
> Lowell
>
>
>
Message 34
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Flat black on the back is correct. Do not even polish it or the sun at the
wrong angle blind you.
Jim Shumaker
> Jim and Don I was told to paint the back side of my aluminum prop flat
> black
> for glare protection, and the front shiny for looks. Don't know if this is
> the basis of flat black or not. I did it because the IA "suggested" that
> was
> how to do it on my spam can. Ron
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Singing in the rain |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
The epoxy props will also be dented in the rain. But they are relatively
easy to repair. With a protective leading edge they will wear much less.
It sound like your prop has a vey effective leading edge protection. Flying
in the rain will not ruin the prop in a single flight unless you hit hail.
It will slowly lower its efficiency.
Jim Shumaker
>
> I have been told that my wooden prop doesn't like too much flying in the
> rain.
> At near the speed of the sound, water will "sandblast" the prop. However,
> I was
> told that if the rain was not too dense and that I kept a relatively low
> RPM, I
> could get away with it.
> I have no intention to fly in rain. First, it reduces dramatically the
> visibility. Second, my Kitfox is far from being watertight.
> But, if I am up there and a light rain shower comes on my path, should I
> navigate around it, or just take it but carefully?
> How bad could I damage my prop? I have a fixed pitch two-bladed Jabiru
> prop
> that has some kind of black rubber leading edge, otherwise, varnished.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Michel
>
>
>
Message 36
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Kirby
I had the same experiance as Don posted to your reply. My numbers were as
good or better than his improvement. Graph of the the prop vs rpm was not
done by me.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: <kitfox@gto.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop tape
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
>
> Don,
>
> What kind of performance numbers do you get with the warp prop?
> I have a gsc wooden one and it seems pretty decent. I would like to
> compare others numbers with a 582 c box 3 to 1 ratio. I am always
> looking or efficient mods. What other pros and cons are they for gsc
> vs. WARP or IVO ? Has anyone actually charted these numbers?
>
>
> Kirby
>
>
> Jim,
>> Actually, they mentioned on the phone that their epoxy/carbon
> fiber was
>> also black but they used the flat black lacquer for better looks. I
> guess
>> that's not very important.
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>> Don Smythe
>> Classic IV w/ 582
>>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Crowder <jimlc@att.net>
At 08:21 AM 5/28/2005, you wrote:
>UV doesn't harm epoxy, think of all the clear epoxy/carbon products you
>come across. I think the paint is to cover up flaws in the prop.
I have used clear epoxy from West Products as a base finish for teak on my
sailboat, and all literature warns that I must use several top coats of
other materials with high UV protection to protect the epoxy from UV.
Jim Crowder
Message 38
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Michel,
*My last entry on the list until I return.
First to your other question - if you see rain (with
your wooden prop) you should go around it. If you
can't go around it, don't panic. Reduce your RPM and
slow cruise out of the rain. Check your prop when you
land.
You might ask your prop manufacturer if they supply a
leading edge protective tape for your prop. Some do.
It would decrease the likelyhood of wear. If you
catch the wear fast enough, you change tapes, not
props.
Now to your {?} in a bubble.
Yes, the free floating door would respond to the
dynamic pressure and seek to find the neutral point.
But you could very well get flutter from it. Not
good. This would be another reason to use an opening
spring in my opinion.
You could use your X-Plane simulator to "see" the
pressure around your cowl, right? The curving bottom
of the cowl produces low pressure like the upper part
of the wing, but this may be mostly gone by the rear
of the cowl like at the trailing edge of the wing.
I do not believe that you need 4 times the exit as
cowl entry for your engine. Where 1.5 to 1 might be
normal, you may find that 2 to 1 would be enough for
you. With your current door, do you close off the
exit more than 2 to 1 when fully closed?
Old VW's had a metal bellows that expanded with heat
and opened the cooling doors inside the fan housing of
their air cooled engines. This was the VW air cooled
"thermostat". By memory, I recall that it was a
fairly powerful bellows, but that it weighed a bit
too. Anyone have any recent experience with these and
know if they would be suitable for controlling cowl
doors? I do not remember their temp range, actuation
distance, weight, or force level. But if not too
heavy, they might make an affordable auto cowl door
controller.
Kurt S. S-5
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
>
> Hello Kurt,
>
> kurt schrader wrote:
> > If everything were perfect, the door would be in a
> low
> > pressure area.
>
> This is the interesting point on which I am not
> getting any wiser. My Jabiru
> dealer tells me that the key to a cool engine is a
> larger outlet that sucks the
> air out, as opposed to an inlet the blows much air
> in.
> Unless you want to toast marshmallows on your engine
> top, a large difference of
> pressure must be created between the top and the
> bottom of the engine room.
>
> If we think of the door as an airfoil with a certain
> AoA, the upper side (the
> bottom of the cowling) is a low pressure as the air
> passes under (high
> pressure) and sucks whatever is over it.
>
> This is the reason my actual cowl flap is not
> working. While it "strangles" the
> outlet, it doesn't decreases the AoA of the
> "airfoil."
>
> Imagine now the door (airfoil) being free to rotate
> to a stable position. What
> would it be? I think it will be such as the pressure
> is equal on both sides.
> Where will that be? I think, not full open nor full
> closed.
>
> I think about dynamic vs. static pressure, I think
> about guys like Bernoulli
> and Venturi and I end up scratching my head with a
> big interrogation mark, in a
> bubble over it, fearing that a horn of my helmet may
> puncture it.
>
> ... could you please put instead a light bulb in my
> bubble? :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
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