Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:58 AM - Iridium Plugs (Rex & Jan Shaw)
2. 01:00 AM - Re: Engine flooding (Harry Tucker)
3. 01:48 AM - Lord Mount bolts (Peter Brookes)
4. 06:23 AM - Re: Engine flooding (George Wells)
5. 06:33 AM - Re: Maritime story off topic (Rex Hefferan)
6. 06:54 AM - Re: Engine flooding (Lowell Fitt)
7. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Left Handed Throttle (W Duke)
8. 11:42 AM - New to Kitfox... (Jeremy Casey)
9. 12:09 PM - New to Kitfox... (Jeremy Casey)
10. 01:27 PM - New to Kitfox... (Jeremy Casey)
11. 03:11 PM - Slipper clutch was: Engine flooding (William Mills)
12. 04:23 PM - Re: Re: Left Handed Throttle (Clem Nichols)
13. 05:44 PM - Legal actiona against SkyStar (Frank & Phyllis)
14. 06:41 PM - Re: New to Kitfox... (Randy Daughenbaugh)
15. 07:20 PM - Re: New to Kitfox... (Don Pearsall)
16. 10:02 PM - Re: Engine flooding (jimshumaker)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Rex,
I did a brief search of the irridium plugs and one note I found suggested
that they come pre gapped and that attempting to regap them would break the
electrode. Can you comment on this?
Lowell
Hi ! Lowell,
yes the box does say something like "Do not adjust gap as
you will break the centre electrode" It is very fine, about 0.6mm from
memory. I just use the plugs as they come and love them. However I think if
you felt you really did need to adjust them I think you could carefully bend
the earth electrode without touching the centre electrode. Then you would
want to be extremely carefull when checking the gap though. I don't remember
now what the gap comes set at but I am happy with them as they are. Graeme
Toft in Queensland also fitted them to an early 582 [ mine is a blue head ]
and is likewise happy with them.
By the way in my post yesterday it says "E" is for 10mm thread length. I
hit the wrong button. That should read 19mm. in case I've confused anyone.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
they might now but did not a couple of years ago
________________________________
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Steve Cooper
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
I though the 912S came with the Slipper clutch as standard equipment?
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harry
Tucker
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
Hi
We had the same problem on a brand new 912S Rotax and tried everthing to
no avail.
We solved the problem partly by:
fitting the new new rubber carb mounts - which I believe is recommended
by Rotax now anyway
and partly by
fitting a slipper clutch
Hope this helps
Harry Tucker
South Africa
________________________________
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Roger Standley
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
snip-----
"This mind you after 650 hours with no carburetor issues and the
rebuild was per recommendation, rather than problem directed."
Lowell,
What prompted you to do the rebuild? If you had it to do over again,
knowing what you know now, what would you do?
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Lowell Fitt<mailto:lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
<lcfitt@sbcglobal.net<mailto:lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>>
Mark,
This is interesting. I do remember your first post. Since then, I
rebuilt
my carbs. The new needles were a failure. I experienced exactly what
you
are experiencing, but mostly on the left (Pilot) side. Like you, I
tried
everything. This mind you after 650 hours with no carburetor issues
and the
rebuild was per recommendation, rather than problem directed.
Bing told me there were three needles. the Black one which is what
you
have - designed for the 912S. The Silver ones that I had and have
now, and
another one, bronze, I think and I am not aware of its purpose
specifically.
On inspection, there was nothing visibly wrong with the old needles -
per
the inspection guidelines in the repair manual - so the old one went
back
on the left carb and I was pretty much OK until I returned from the
Idaho
trip last week and had a little rough running as I taxied to the
hangar and
found fuel on the floor the next morining - about a tablespoon full.
I
guess I will find the time to put the old needle back in the right
carb.
As for what to look for, I haven't a clue, but the fact that my
probalem
started with the installation of new needles, suggests that the
needles
might just play a part in the problem. Maybe as some vendors claim,
"there
was a bad batch".
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net<mailto:kirk@mninter.net>>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson"
<kirk@mninter.net<mailto:kirk@mninter.net>>
>
> Hello:
>
> I have written about my problem with my Rotax 912 several times and
I have
> gotten several solutions that I have tried( thanks a lot to all
those that
> had suggestions). I still have the same problem with the carbs
flooding
> out.
>
> When the engine is up to operating temperature, and I close the
throttle
> for final approach, the engine floods out. Also, attempting to
restart
> the engine, there is gas coming from the overflow tubes on the carb
when
> the engine sits for 5 minutes after running.
>
> Here is what I have done so far:
>
> 1. Rebuilt the carbs with new O rings and gaskets.
>
> 2. Installed new bowl floats on one side (because I thought they
looked
> waterlogged(gaslogged?)).
>
> 3. Installed the new heavier spring needle valves.
>
> 4.Installed new float forks in the bowls.
>
> 5. Adjusted the idle jet.
>
> 6.Checked the fuel pressure with a gauge( because it seemed that
there was
> too much pressure in the gas line) it was fine at about 4.9psi.
>
> 7. Cleaned out the breather hole on the bottom side of the throttle
body
> where the air cleaner attaches.
>
> I have spoke to Bing carbs, Frank Miller at Skystar, Leading Edge
> AirFoils, and the guys down at Lockwood. I have tried just about
> everything except:
>
> 1. Installing new rubber engine mounts. That is next.
> 2. New rubber carb mounts.
> 3. New needle seats.
>
> Anyone else have any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kirk Martenson
> Grounded Classic IV
>
>
>
============================ DISCLAIMER ============================
Internet communications are not secure and therefore Jt's Europe Ltd
does not accept legal responsibility for the contents of this message.
If you are not the intended recipient please notify the sender
immediately
and do not disclose the contents to any third party. Any views or
opinions
expressed are those of the author, and do not necessarily represent
those
of Jt's Europe Ltd. Although Jt's Europe Ltd believes this email and
any attachments are free of any virus or other defect which may affect
a computer, it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that it
is virus-free and Jt's Europe Ltd does not accept any responsibility
for any loss or damage arising in any way from its use.
=================================================================
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lord Mount bolts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Brookes" <pdbrookes@blueyonder.co.uk>
Does anyone know the AN reference the for two nuts and bolts holding the
Lord mount to the frame? I noticed on my last pre-flight that the top washer
was contacting the nut/bolt and wearing them and need to replace them. Must
be when I am at full throttle!!
Thanks
Pete
Kitfox II 582
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine flooding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "George Wells" <georgewells@adelphia.net>
See the info in the EAA Sport Pilot -- June issue -- Page 56
it talks about the spring in the carb needle valve .
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Maritime story off topic |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rex Hefferan <kitfox-m2@earthlink.net>
While it IS a funny story, it never actually happened. Go to the link
below for the facts and bookmark snopes. :-)
http://www.snopes.com/military/lighthse.htm
do not archive
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine flooding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Roger,
I don't know for sure. Actually after re-reading this post, I do know what
I would do. I would replace the float arms as that is the only place I saw
any sign of wear and probably the diaphragms. I would definitely inspect
the needles and floats, but replace these only if they didn't look good
according to the manual. With any of these components, I can't think of a
catastrophic failure mode. Maybe someone can help me on that one.
I did the rebuild primarily because Larry had changed out his diaphagm
regularly - about every two years or so and I hadn't done anything at all
regarding carburetor maintenance. I read the maintenance manual, carburetor
section, and they recommended replacing the float needle at ? hours and I
had surpassed that. Also, when the 912 was in its early days, when the
firrst TBO increase was announced, the only maintenance issue, as I recall,
was a recommended replacement of the float needle. So I guess I was getting
a little anxious at 700 hours.
I did inspect the old needles according to the expected wear pattern - it
consisted of the spring loaded pin wearing the swaged shoulder holding it in
the needle. I found no wear and the old and new measured exactly the same
in length. With the expected wear pattern, the pin would cut into the
brass shoulder of the needle and allow it to extend outward a bit resulting
in a longer length. The only wear I saw was in the float arms where the
floats contacted them and in the area that contacted the needle itself.
Everything else checked fine including the diaphragms and the floats.
I recently replaced the boots and found the old ones perfectly servicable.
I replaced these because a roughness in the 2500 - 2700 range and was
advised that a crack on the boot would give this rougnness. As I think
about it now, with the fuel on the floor after returning from a flight with
a rough idle, that the rough idle was just another episode of needle
leaking rather than the boots causing the rough idle.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
>
>
> snip-----
>
> "This mind you after 650 hours with no carburetor issues and the
> rebuild was per recommendation, rather than problem directed."
>
> Lowell,
>
> What prompted you to do the rebuild? If you had it to do over again,
> knowing what you know now, what would you do?
>
> Roger
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lowell Fitt<mailto:lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 7:19 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net<mailto:lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>>
>
> Mark,
>
> This is interesting. I do remember your first post. Since then, I
> rebuilt
> my carbs. The new needles were a failure. I experienced exactly what
> you
> are experiencing, but mostly on the left (Pilot) side. Like you, I tried
> everything. This mind you after 650 hours with no carburetor issues and
> the
> rebuild was per recommendation, rather than problem directed.
>
> Bing told me there were three needles. the Black one which is what you
> have - designed for the 912S. The Silver ones that I had and have now,
> and
> another one, bronze, I think and I am not aware of its purpose
> specifically.
>
> On inspection, there was nothing visibly wrong with the old needles - per
> the inspection guidelines in the repair manual - so the old one went
> back
> on the left carb and I was pretty much OK until I returned from the Idaho
> trip last week and had a little rough running as I taxied to the hangar
> and
> found fuel on the floor the next morining - about a tablespoon full. I
> guess I will find the time to put the old needle back in the right carb.
>
> As for what to look for, I haven't a clue, but the fact that my probalem
> started with the installation of new needles, suggests that the needles
> might just play a part in the problem. Maybe as some vendors claim,
> "there
> was a bad batch".
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net<mailto:kirk@mninter.net>>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson"
> <kirk@mninter.net<mailto:kirk@mninter.net>>
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > I have written about my problem with my Rotax 912 several times and I
> have
> > gotten several solutions that I have tried( thanks a lot to all those
> that
> > had suggestions). I still have the same problem with the carbs flooding
> > out.
> >
> > When the engine is up to operating temperature, and I close the
> throttle
> > for final approach, the engine floods out. Also, attempting to restart
> > the engine, there is gas coming from the overflow tubes on the carb
> when
> > the engine sits for 5 minutes after running.
> >
> > Here is what I have done so far:
> >
> > 1. Rebuilt the carbs with new O rings and gaskets.
> >
> > 2. Installed new bowl floats on one side (because I thought they looked
> > waterlogged(gaslogged?)).
> >
> > 3. Installed the new heavier spring needle valves.
> >
> > 4.Installed new float forks in the bowls.
> >
> > 5. Adjusted the idle jet.
> >
> > 6.Checked the fuel pressure with a gauge( because it seemed that there
> was
> > too much pressure in the gas line) it was fine at about 4.9psi.
> >
> > 7. Cleaned out the breather hole on the bottom side of the throttle
> body
> > where the air cleaner attaches.
> >
> > I have spoke to Bing carbs, Frank Miller at Skystar, Leading Edge
> > AirFoils, and the guys down at Lockwood. I have tried just about
> > everything except:
> >
> > 1. Installing new rubber engine mounts. That is next.
> > 2. New rubber carb mounts.
> > 3. New needle seats.
> >
> > Anyone else have any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Kirk Martenson
> > Grounded Classic IV
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Left Handed Throttle |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
1. If you have flown a Cessna or the like you have had the throttle in your right
hand.
2. I found the transition from a champ instantaneous. Once in the airplane the
thought of being off handed never crossed my mind. (My first experience in
a Fox was with an instructor)
3. What you see and then do with your feet is far more important than your hand.
(IMHO). I fly from the left and right. Better from the left because the
"picture" is what I am used to. Keeping the tailwheel aligned seems to me a learned
"picture" when seated off center.
4. I considered making my S6 right seat primary but did not. Having done it I
do not think any pilot will have a problem adapting instantly.
5. If still concerned get an instructor or the like to sit right seat until comfortable.
Maxwell
Tinne maha <tinnemaha@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha"
Hi Jim,
I also learned with the stick in my right hand and the throttle in my left
hand. I am setting up my series 5 with the Pilot in Command to fly on the
right side of the aircraft. I've got a few strange looks & comments but I
know it has been done before. I've flown an RV-6 that was set up that
way.........it was very comfortable.
Good Luck,
Grant
>Hi all, back again with a few more questions. All of the planes I've
>flown so far have a left hand throttel and that is what I am used to. I'm
>about to buy a Kitfox and would like to not have too many things to get
>used to at one time. Has anyone set up their Fox with duel throttels so
>either seat has a throttel on the left?? I've looked at my Kitfox 3
>project and see how one might run a cable to pull at the same place as the
>typical location, but I'm not sure yet how I would unlock the throttel
>that is not being used so it would not restrict the movement of the other
>one. Any comments????? Thanks, Jim
>PS Maybe once I start flying the Kitfox and get used to it, I can work on
>flying the joystick with my left hand, but right now I would rather use my
>right.
---------------------------------
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New to Kitfox... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
Thought I=92d introduce myself=85I just purchased an unstarted Series 5
Vixen kit. I have built a few planes already so am not new to
homebuilding, but am completely new to Kitfoxes. This is my first
project to need to =93bond=94 anything (not counting polytak=85) and the
first to involve any wood. Soooo I=92m looking for a little help getting
started. I have also been trying to figure out where I=92m at with this
kit=85as I have multiple nose wheel forks and upgrade kits for this and
that. This was serial number 27=85 manufactured circa early =9294 and as
such was fairly early in the development cycle=85basically I think ever AD
that ever come out about series 5,6,7 planes will apply to this kit and
have to be dealt with=85any advise regarding that appreciated greatly.
Couple of quick and specific questions=85
I=92ve heard of =93Hysol=94 adhesive that is a grey mess that will glue
anything to anything=85this kit has a couple of cans of 3M Scotchweld=85is
that the same stuff, just different trade name? I haven=92t looked up the
shelf life of the stuff YET, but figure 10 years is probably old enough
to just throw it out and buy new=85
I read that there was some =93concern=94 about the electric pitch trim
actuator used in this kit (and noticed the series 7 has a completely
manual system=85) What is the story with that actuator and what has been
done in the past.
I didn=92t find any upholstery in the packages=85is this something that was
purchased separately?
The wings were originally bought as a =93quickbuild=94, so they were
assembled already. Buuuutttttt, the wood was never sealed I don=92t
believe=85now I don=92t see any signs of decay or anything of the like (they
were kept out of the weather=85) but does that give anyone the chills?
Or is that just a case of inspect, seal them right, and move on?
The next question is a tough one=85there will have to be some welding done
on this cage, and it is powdercaoted=85what is the best way to get the
stuff off of the areas that will be affected by heat? I know you can
sand it off, and I think a bead blaster can take it off, but other than
that does anyone have any knowledge of it? I=92m desperately hoping that
there is some solvent that will take it off=85
The flaperons look marvelous except for a vinyl (I think) protective
coating that was on them that has started to come off in places, but
doesn=92t appear to be eager to come off in others=85is there a trick to
this? If there is no easy way to do this=85please break it too me gentle,
as I drove 36 hours over 2 =BD days to get this thing and I=92m a little
weak still ;-)
As best I can tell, the spring gear is actually the same between the
taildragger and tri-gear versions=85is this correct? (obviously mounted
in different places) I am going to convert this plane to a taildragger
one way or the other (hence the powdercoat removal question=85)
All for now=85
Jeremy Casey
KiloCharlie Drafting, Inc.
jeremy@kilocharlie.us
http://www.kilocharlie.us/Flying.htm
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New to Kitfox... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
Reposted this...it came through in HTML form and was pretty garbled...I
fixed it...
Thought Id introduce myselfI just purchased an unstarted Series 5
Vixen kit. I have built a few planes already so am not new to
homebuilding, but am completely new to Kitfoxes. This is my first
project to need to bond anything (not counting polytak) and the
first to involve any wood. Soooo Im looking for a little help getting
started. I have also been trying to figure out where Im at with this
kitas I have multiple nose wheel forks and upgrade kits for this and
that. This was serial number 27 manufactured circa early 94 and as
such was fairly early in the development cyclebasically I think ever AD
that ever come out about series 5,6,7 planes will apply to this kit and
have to be dealt withany advise regarding that appreciated greatly.
Couple of quick and specific questions
Ive heard of Hysol adhesive that is a grey mess that will glue
anything to anythingthis kit has a couple of cans of 3M Scotchweldis
that the same stuff, just different trade name? I havent looked up the
shelf life of the stuff YET, but figure 10 years is probably old enough
to just throw it out and buy new
I read that there was some concern about the electric pitch trim
actuator used in this kit (and noticed the series 7 has a completely
manual system) What is the story with that actuator and what has been
done in the past.
I didnt find any upholstery in the packagesis this something that was
purchased separately?
The wings were originally bought as a quickbuild, so they were
assembled already. Buuuutttttt, the wood was never sealed I dont
believenow I dont see any signs of decay or anything of the like (they
were kept out of the weather) but does that give anyone the chills?
Or is that just a case of inspect, seal them right, and move on?
The next question is a tough onethere will have to be some welding done
on this cage, and it is powdercaotedwhat is the best way to get the
stuff off of the areas that will be affected by heat? I know you can
sand it off, and I think a bead blaster can take it off, but other than
that does anyone have any knowledge of it? Im desperately hoping that
there is some solvent that will take it off
The flaperons look marvelous except for a vinyl (I think) protective
coating that was on them that has started to come off in places, but
doesnt appear to be eager to come off in othersis there a trick to
this? If there is no easy way to do thisplease break it too me gentle,
as I drove 36 hours over 2 days to get this thing and Im a little
weak still ;-)
As best I can tell, the spring gear is actually the same between the
taildragger and tri-gear versionsis this correct? (obviously mounted
in different places) I am going to convert this plane to a taildragger
one way or the other (hence the powdercoat removal question)
All for now
Jeremy Casey
KiloCharlie Drafting, Inc.
jeremy@kilocharlie.us
http://www.kilocharlie.us/Flying.htm
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New to Kitfox... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
ONE LAST TIME...(I promise...) converting to plain text, deleted a bunch
of punctuation...
Thought I'd introduce myself. I just purchased an unstarted Series 5
Vixen kit. I have built a few planes already so am not new to
homebuilding, but am completely new to Kitfoxes. This is my first
project to need to bond anything (not counting polytak) and the first
to involve any wood. Soooo I'm looking for a little help getting
started. I have also been trying to figure out where I'm at with this
kit as I have multiple nose wheel forks and upgrade kits for this and
that. This was serial number 27 manufactured circa early 94 and as such
was fairly early in the development cycle, basically I think every AD
that ever come out about series 5,6,7 planes will apply to this kit and
have to be dealt with, any advise regarding that appreciated greatly.
Couple of quick and specific questions
I've heard of "Hysol" adhesive that is a grey mess that will glue
anything to anything...this kit has a couple of cans of 3M Scotchweld.
Is that the same stuff, just different trade name? I haven't looked up
the shelf life of the stuff YET, but figure 10 years is probably old
enough to just throw it out and buy new..?
I read that there was some concern about the electric pitch trim
actuator used in this kit (and noticed the series 7 has a completely
manual system) What is the story with that actuator and what has been
done in the past.
I didn't find any upholstery in the packages...is this something that
was
purchased separately?
The wings were originally bought as a quickbuild, so they were assembled
already. Buuuutttttt, the wood was never sealed I don't believe...now I
don't see any signs of decay or anything of the like (they were kept out
of the weather) but does that give anyone the chills? Or is that just a
case of inspect, seal them right, and move on?
The next question is a tough one, there will have to be some welding
done on this cage, and it is powdercoated...what is the best way to get
the stuff off of the areas that will be affected by heat? I know you
can sand it off, and I think a bead blaster can take it off, but other
than that does anyone have any knowledge of it? I'm desperately hoping
that there is some solvent that will take it off...
The flaperons look marvelous except for a vinyl (I think) protective
coating that was on them that has started to come off in places, but
doesn't appear to be eager to come off in others...is there a trick to
this? If there is no easy way to do this please break it too me
gentle,as I drove 36 hours over 2 days to get this thing and Im a
little weak still ;-)
As best I can tell, the spring gear is actually the same between the
taildragger and tri-gear versions...is this correct? (obviously mounted
in different places) I am going to convert this plane to a taildragger
one way or the other (hence the powdercoat removal question)
All for now
Jeremy Casey
KiloCharlie Drafting, Inc.
jeremy@kilocharlie.us
http://www.kilocharlie.us/Flying.htm
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Slipper clutch was: Engine flooding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: William Mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
I believe the certified (certificated?) 912S was always equipped with
a slipper clutch.
The non-certified 912uls that we use didn't have the slipper clutch
for many years - except as a mod.
Nowadays all(?) the uls models come equipped with the slipper clutch.
Bill
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
>
>they might now but did not a couple of years ago
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Steve Cooper
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
>
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
>
>I though the 912S came with the Slipper clutch as standard equipment?
>
>Steve
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harry
>Tucker
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Engine flooding
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
>
>Hi
>
>We had the same problem on a brand new 912S Rotax and tried everthing to
>no avail.
>
>We solved the problem partly by:
> fitting the new new rubber carb mounts - which I believe is recommended
>by Rotax now anyway
>and partly by
>fitting a slipper clutch
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Harry Tucker
>South Africa
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Left Handed Throttle |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Maxwell:
I couldn't agree with you more. Although my primary plane is a Kitfox with
a left-handed stick and a right-handed throttle, I continue to fly my
Quicksilver MXL which is just the opposite. Also when I get my biennial
flight review it's in a 172 with a yoke as opposed to a stick. Neither of
these has ever presented a problem, and I don't consider myself at all
ambidextrous. Intuitively you'd think it would be a real problem, but it
isn't. IMO (for whatever it's worth) I don't think that changing the
throttle linkage around would be worth the trouble involved.
Clem Nichols
----- Original Message -----
From: "W Duke" <n981ms@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Left Handed Throttle
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
>
> 1. If you have flown a Cessna or the like you have had the throttle in
> your right hand.
> 2. I found the transition from a champ instantaneous. Once in the
> airplane the thought of being off handed never crossed my mind. (My first
> experience in a Fox was with an instructor)
> 3. What you see and then do with your feet is far more important than
> your hand. (IMHO). I fly from the left and right. Better from the left
> because the "picture" is what I am used to. Keeping the tailwheel aligned
> seems to me a learned "picture" when seated off center.
> 4. I considered making my S6 right seat primary but did not. Having done
> it I do not think any pilot will have a problem adapting instantly.
> 5. If still concerned get an instructor or the like to sit right seat
> until comfortable.
>
> Maxwell
>
>
> Tinne maha <tinnemaha@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha"
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I also learned with the stick in my right hand and the throttle in my left
> hand. I am setting up my series 5 with the Pilot in Command to fly on the
> right side of the aircraft. I've got a few strange looks & comments but I
> know it has been done before. I've flown an RV-6 that was set up that
> way.........it was very comfortable.
>
> Good Luck,
> Grant
>
>
>>Hi all, back again with a few more questions. All of the planes I've
>>flown so far have a left hand throttel and that is what I am used to. I'm
>>about to buy a Kitfox and would like to not have too many things to get
>>used to at one time. Has anyone set up their Fox with duel throttels so
>>either seat has a throttel on the left?? I've looked at my Kitfox 3
>>project and see how one might run a cable to pull at the same place as the
>>typical location, but I'm not sure yet how I would unlock the throttel
>>that is not being used so it would not restrict the movement of the other
>>one. Any comments????? Thanks, Jim
>>PS Maybe once I start flying the Kitfox and get used to it, I can work on
>>flying the joystick with my left hand, but right now I would rather use my
>>right.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Legal actiona against SkyStar |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Frank & Phyllis <frank.phyllis@mindspring.com>
All,
It is with regret that I have to resort to legal action against SS. I
have yet to receive my engine, paid for in full many many moons ago.
Frank Miller has failed to even acknowledge recent email msgs or
certified letters.
I have filed with the Idaho Consumer Protection Agency/Fraud Unit.
Has enyone else had to take this route or contemplating it? Or has
another course of action realized desired outcome? Please contact me
off line.
Thanks
Frank McDonald
Do not archieve
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New to Kitfox... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Jeremy,
Yup, plain text works best on the list.
I will take a whack on some of your questions. There is a lot of expertise
here, so I hope you get more answers.
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
I've heard of "Hysol" adhesive that is a grey mess that will glue
anything to anything...this kit has a couple of cans of 3M Scotchweld.
Is that the same stuff, just different trade name?
I think that this is right. Check your instructions. It may have
come later, but
In the builders tips section is a good discussion of gluing. Good
surface prep is key to everything! Also, you should have some
cotton flox. This is to mix with the two parts to make it hold its
shape better prior to setting up. Also, there should be some
microballons (looks like a powder). This serves a different function.
You add a bit these to the mix when gluing different metals together.
This prevents direct contact of the two different kinds of metals and thus
prevents galvanic corrosion.
The wings were originally bought as a quickbuild, so they were assembled
already. Buuuutttttt, the wood was never sealed I don't believe...now I
don't see any signs of decay or anything of the like (they were kept out
of the weather) but does that give anyone the chills? Or is that just a
case of inspect, seal them right, and move on?
Yup, Inspect them, seal them with epoxy varnish and move on. But be
sure to use epoxy varnish because the solvents in the polyfiber system
with dissolve other varnishes.
AS for the pitch trim, and flaperon vinyl removal, Check the archives. The
first thing to do is to ID the type of pitch screw activator that you have.
If you have the new one, I don't think you need to do anything other than
use it. There have been some innovative ways to remove the vinyl.
Hope some one can tell you more about the welding for the change to tail
dragger. Look at some pictures of the series 7 fuselage to see how the
bracing has been modified to handle both gear setups.
Where are you located? And have fun building!
Randy - Series 5/7 912 S
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | New to Kitfox... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Hi Jeremy,
Welcome to the list! Wow so many questions. BUT there is hope. This list has
been going for 10 years so all your questions have been asked and answered
before.
You will get a lot of replies, but you can also search the archives of this
group both here at Matronics, and the previous archive that I put on Yahoo.
To search within the last 2 years, just go to
http://www.matronics.com/search/.
For years beyond the Matronics list, just go to
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/kitfoxlist
It looks like your Vixen kit is in good hands. Good luck and keep us posted
on your progress.
Don Pearsall
List Administrator
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Casey
Subject: Kitfox-List: New to Kitfox...
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
Reposted this...it came through in HTML form and was pretty garbled...I
fixed it...
Thought Id introduce myselfI just purchased an unstarted Series 5
Vixen kit. I have built a few planes already so am not new to
homebuilding, but am completely new to Kitfoxes. This is my first
project to need to bond anything (not counting polytak) and the
first to involve any wood. Soooo Im looking for a little help getting
started. I have also been trying to figure out where Im at with this
kitas I have multiple nose wheel forks and upgrade kits for this and
that. This was serial number 27 manufactured circa early 94 and as
such was fairly early in the development cyclebasically I think ever AD
that ever come out about series 5,6,7 planes will apply to this kit and
have to be dealt withany advise regarding that appreciated greatly.
Couple of quick and specific questions
Ive heard of Hysol adhesive that is a grey mess that will glue
anything to anythingthis kit has a couple of cans of 3M Scotchweldis
that the same stuff, just different trade name? I havent looked up the
shelf life of the stuff YET, but figure 10 years is probably old enough
to just throw it out and buy new
I read that there was some concern about the electric pitch trim
actuator used in this kit (and noticed the series 7 has a completely
manual system) What is the story with that actuator and what has been
done in the past.
I didnt find any upholstery in the packagesis this something that was
purchased separately?
The wings were originally bought as a quickbuild, so they were
assembled already. Buuuutttttt, the wood was never sealed I dont
believenow I dont see any signs of decay or anything of the like (they
were kept out of the weather) but does that give anyone the chills?
Or is that just a case of inspect, seal them right, and move on?
The next question is a tough onethere will have to be some welding done
on this cage, and it is powdercaotedwhat is the best way to get the
stuff off of the areas that will be affected by heat? I know you can
sand it off, and I think a bead blaster can take it off, but other than
that does anyone have any knowledge of it? Im desperately hoping that
there is some solvent that will take it off
The flaperons look marvelous except for a vinyl (I think) protective
coating that was on them that has started to come off in places, but
doesnt appear to be eager to come off in othersis there a trick to
this? If there is no easy way to do thisplease break it too me gentle,
as I drove 36 hours over 2 days to get this thing and Im a little
weak still ;-)
As best I can tell, the spring gear is actually the same between the
taildragger and tri-gear versionsis this correct? (obviously mounted
in different places) I am going to convert this plane to a taildragger
one way or the other (hence the powdercoat removal question)
All for now
Jeremy Casey
KiloCharlie Drafting, Inc.
jeremy@kilocharlie.us
http://www.kilocharlie.us/Flying.htm
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine flooding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Kirk
When I first tried to run the engine it had been sitting for a while and was
impossibly rough. Cleaning and rebuilding the carbs did nothing. The
pressure regulator helped some. Bending the tab on the float lever cured
the problem.
Recently, 5 years and 700 hours later, I found the shutoff needles on both
carbs did not shut off when the plane was parked. No problems when running
but now I always shut off the gas valve when parked overnight.
Jim Shumaker
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|