Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:56 AM - Re: Brake line bleeding (Jay Carter)
2. 06:43 AM - Re: Brake line bleeding (Donna and Roger McConnell)
3. 07:04 AM - Re: Brake line bleeding (Jay Carter)
4. 10:40 AM - Re: Brake line bleeding (Donna and Roger McConnell)
5. 11:07 AM - Taxi Tests (Marco Menezes)
6. 12:01 PM - Windshield Fasteners (Guy Buchanan)
7. 12:07 PM - Re: 912S Installation (Randy Daughenbaugh)
8. 12:21 PM - Re: new member (Randy Daughenbaugh)
9. 12:36 PM - Re: 912S Installation (jdmcbean)
10. 12:43 PM - Re: Tyres ... again (Michel Verheughe)
11. 12:48 PM - Re: Building A grass Strip (Randy Daughenbaugh)
12. 12:48 PM - Re: Taxi Tests (John King)
13. 01:03 PM - Re: Windshield Fasteners (John King)
14. 03:45 PM - Re: new member (JOSE PACHECO)
15. 05:35 PM - Re: Tyres ... again (Lowell Fitt)
16. 06:02 PM - Re: Windshield Fasteners (Jeff Smathers)
17. 06:05 PM - Tires question extended,, (Jeff Smathers)
18. 06:21 PM - Re: Windshield Fasteners (John Anderson)
19. 06:31 PM - Re: Latest on 912 coolant and oil? (flier)
20. 08:31 PM - Re: 912S Installation (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
21. 08:40 PM - Re: 912S Installation (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
22. 08:45 PM - Re: 912S Installation (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Brake line bleeding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Carter" <valley361@centurytel.net>
Roger,
Unless you have something wrong with your bleeder valves you can use
hardware store 3/16 clear tubing and an oil can to install the fluid. Pump
the fluid to the end of the tube, push the tube on the bleeder valve, open
the valve one turn or more. There are a lot of turns and loops in the lines
and difficult to get the air out.You may have to bleed the brakes several
times to get out all the air. The valve that is in ACS catalog will not
help. Save your money.
Jay C.
----- Original Message > On Fri Jul 8 18:01 , 'Donna and Roger McConnell'
<rdmac@swbell.net> sent:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
> rdmac@swbell.net>
> >
> >I need some input from list member who have installed brake fluid. What
> >method did you use to install and bleed your brake lines? I tried to do
> that
> >today but wound up with a lot of air in the lines. The brakes I have are
> >Cleveland and I found in the ACS catalog a little fitting called a Brake
> >Line Bleeder that attaches to a fitting on the bottom of the caliper. It
is
> >an expensive little item for almost $55.00. I'm looking for a less
> expensive
> >alternative for installing the brake fluid. Comments please.
> >
> > Roger Mac
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Brake line bleeding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Jay,
Thanks, you've given me an idea I might try. Apparently this is a
fitting that is exclusive to Cleveland brakes. First of all, there is no
valve that I can open. This is a check valve fitting. It will let fluid in
but not out. But I think I might try using a piece of brake line and force
it on the fitting and it may be tight enough to seal and force open the
check valve to allow fluid to pass. I have an oil can that I think will
work. Anyway it's worth a shot.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Carter
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake line bleeding
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Carter" <valley361@centurytel.net>
Roger,
Unless you have something wrong with your bleeder valves you can use
hardware store 3/16 clear tubing and an oil can to install the fluid. Pump
the fluid to the end of the tube, push the tube on the bleeder valve, open
the valve one turn or more. There are a lot of turns and loops in the lines
and difficult to get the air out.You may have to bleed the brakes several
times to get out all the air. The valve that is in ACS catalog will not
help. Save your money.
Jay C.
----- Original Message > On Fri Jul 8 18:01 , 'Donna and Roger McConnell'
<rdmac@swbell.net> sent:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell"
> rdmac@swbell.net>
> >
> >I need some input from list member who have installed brake fluid. What
> >method did you use to install and bleed your brake lines? I tried to do
> that
> >today but wound up with a lot of air in the lines. The brakes I have are
> >Cleveland and I found in the ACS catalog a little fitting called a Brake
> >Line Bleeder that attaches to a fitting on the bottom of the caliper. It
is
> >an expensive little item for almost $55.00. I'm looking for a less
> expensive
> >alternative for installing the brake fluid. Comments please.
> >
> > Roger Mac
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Brake line bleeding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Carter" <valley361@centurytel.net>
Roger,
The bleeder valves look similar to zerk fittings. Unless someone put
some kind of different fitting in your brakes this is what you have. The
bleeder valve is opened just by turning it out a turn or two. Takes a 1/4"
wrench. It is a valve. Just opened by unscrewing.
Jay C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Brake line bleeding
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Brake line bleeding |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Jay,
Boy do I have major egg on my face. You are 100% correct. A buddy of
mine this morning showed me that to open the bleeder you have to UNSCREW it
a turn or two. I was looking for a lever or something of that nature. After
I UNSCREWED the thing then I was able to pump fluid right in and we were
done in no time. Oh well another lesson learned. Thanks for all the help.
Roger Mac
N619RM (really ready to taxi)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Carter
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Brake line bleeding
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Carter" <valley361@centurytel.net>
Roger,
The bleeder valves look similar to zerk fittings. Unless someone put
some kind of different fitting in your brakes this is what you have. The
bleeder valve is opened just by turning it out a turn or two. Takes a 1/4"
wrench. It is a valve. Just opened by unscrewing.
Jay C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Brake line bleeding
>
>
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Kitfox list:
I did my taxi testing today and identified a few glitches that need working out.
Most significant are: 1) My legs are too short and 2) an apparent lack of turning
authority (on the ground) when left rudder is applied. She turns to the
right easily but left turns require what seems inordinate rudder pressure to achieve
a sluggish left turn.
I tried tightening the tension on left rudder cable which seemed to help a little.
There's still a noticable discrepancy in left rudder authority when compared
to right, however. Tailwheel springs and chains are both tight. Any ideas?
Also, I deliberately ignored the wise counsel of those on the list who have advised
against high speed taxi runs. Result? A 20 mph groundloop to the left. Scary
buy no damage, except to ego.
Marco Menezes
N99KX Model 2 - 582
---------------------------------
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Windshield Fasteners |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Hi everybody.
What should I use to fasten my windshield/skylight. The manual
says aluminum rivet, I assume that's a pop rivet, but it could be a
standard rivet as well. Should I fasten it with #6 screws and lock nuts for
maintainability? Or is that too heavy and unnecessary? Thanks for the help.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 7
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|
Subject: | 912S Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Rick,
Now with the "engine mount" ID'd as the problem, I will jump in. I have the
series 7 firewall forward on my series 5. I had to send the engine mount
back to Skystar. They modified it for no cost, but did charge me for
shipping and for powedercoating.
They know what is needed, and can fix it quickly.
Did you determine what the "goo" is soluble in?
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Mdkitfox@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 912S Installation
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
Lowell,
Thanks for the kind note. I know the list is the best place to get help.
Post it and it will come. Regardless, the sympathy is appreciated.
After rereading my note, I realized I was blaming everything on the ring
mount when in fact the really bad player appears to be the engine mount. I
guess it's time to step back, take a deep breath, relax, then just beat the
hell
out of the engine mount! Just kidding.
Later,
Do not archive
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Joe,
Where are you located? Post your location and I'll bet that a couple near
by 'Fox owners will identify themselves and you can look aat their planes
and get advice first hand. Maybe even talk/visit some in progress.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOSE PACHECO
Subject: Kitfox-List: new member
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: JOSE PACHECO <n1915lc23@yahoo.com>
Hi all
Just sold my beech sundowner.Great undervalued machine but very expensive
when ad s
and sb s come nocking.I have been thinking of building a kitfox.This would
be my first ho
me built.My question is where do I start.I have the know how when it comes
to machines.
Have 2 1/12 car garage and money for project.
Thanks
Joe
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
Message 9
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|
Subject: | 912S Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Wrong Mount different case... The 7 mount was designed prior to the starter
change and then basically recalled to modify for the new starter. Such is
not the case for the Series 5 or 6's. The smooth cowl engine mount will
work with the ears cut off and the round cowl mount we did not think would
work at all. There was no intention on re-designing the engine mount for the
earlier installs. That thought may have changed but I doubt it.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy
Daughenbaugh
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: 912S Installation
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh"
<rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Rick,
Now with the "engine mount" ID'd as the problem, I will jump in. I have the
series 7 firewall forward on my series 5. I had to send the engine mount
back to Skystar. They modified it for no cost, but did charge me for
shipping and for powedercoating.
They know what is needed, and can fix it quickly.
Did you determine what the "goo" is soluble in?
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Mdkitfox@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 912S Installation
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
Lowell,
Thanks for the kind note. I know the list is the best place to get help.
Post it and it will come. Regardless, the sympathy is appreciated.
After rereading my note, I realized I was blaming everything on the ring
mount when in fact the really bad player appears to be the engine mount. I
guess it's time to step back, take a deep breath, relax, then just beat the
hell
out of the engine mount! Just kidding.
Later,
Do not archive
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Tyres ... again |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Thanks Jose and Torgeir.
Torgeir Mortensen wrote:
> This is unshaved, because it's a Kitfox :) ..
Very unshaved and virile, indeed, Sir! :-)
But then ... why are mine shaved? Is it because,
1) It gives less drag
2) It's easier to land on
3) It's kinder to the grass
4) It's a reminiscence of the time Kitfoxes were flown by skinheads? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Building A grass Strip |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Jeff,
What are the reasons for registering your private airport? I had someone
with the government tell me to just fly from it and forget about registering
it. He said there is no value in registering it.
I have also been told that insurance is much less expensive if you register
your strip.
I have just been flying from my strip so far, but I am still interested in
registering it.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JJProbasco@cs.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Building A grass Strip
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: JJProbasco@cs.com
I built a grass strip in PA and got my final airport license last fall. The
paperwork side was relatively painless. Raking a shoveling stones - well
that's another story.
Generally for private airports, the feds are interested only in the air
space
and safe approaches, and your state will probably be more interested in the
overall design features and ground location. I suggest you start with the
division or aeronautics in the department of transportation for your state.
PA
was very helpful, and provided an information packet with the necessary
forms/or
pointing to the FAA website for forms and advisories.
Jeff
Model 5, NSI CAP, still building
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Marco,
Relative to the left rudder turning harder than the right, I would first
raise the tail wheel off the ground allowing it to move without touching
the ground. Climb in the cockpit and move the rudder peddles left and
right. If you still notice the problem you should inspect the rudder
cables to verify that that they do not bind on any of the pulley guides
or other near by surfaces. If you have a Series 5, 6 or 7 make sure the
carter pins are installed in the pulley wheel assembly, or that all of
the pulley wheel assemblies have the guide straps properly installed.
Just make sure that the rudder cables cannot jump off the pulley wheel
and get wedged on the side of the pulley wheel. Verify that the cables
move freely through all guides and pulley wheels.
If the rudder cables are not the problem, then disconnect the cables
from the rudder peddles and verify that the peddles move freely.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Marco Menezes wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
>Kitfox list:
>
>I did my taxi testing today and identified a few glitches that need working out.
Most significant are: 1) My legs are too short and 2) an apparent lack of turning
authority (on the ground) when left rudder is applied. She turns to the
right easily but left turns require what seems inordinate rudder pressure to
achieve a sluggish left turn.
>
>I tried tightening the tension on left rudder cable which seemed to help a little.
There's still a noticable discrepancy in left rudder authority when compared
to right, however. Tailwheel springs and chains are both tight. Any ideas?
>
>Also, I deliberately ignored the wise counsel of those on the list who have advised
against high speed taxi runs. Result? A 20 mph groundloop to the left. Scary
buy no damage, except to ego.
>
>Marco Menezes
>N99KX Model 2 - 582
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: Windshield Fasteners |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Guy,
I prefer to use #6 SS flat head screws with SS Tinnerman washers. I
countersink the windshield holes to fit the Tinnerman washers. I also
use #6 self locking nuts, the type that are riveted in place. Just make
sure you do not secure the screws tightly. I tighten the screws just
enough to allow the Tinnerman washers to move slightly with side
pressure. This is necessary to allow for expansion of the plastic
windshield in extreme temperatures. The screws also allow for easy
removal. Aluminum rivets require drilling to remove and do not allow
for temperature expansion. Screws take more work to install, but save
tons of work later.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Guy Buchanan wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
>Hi everybody.
> What should I use to fasten my windshield/skylight. The manual
>says aluminum rivet, I assume that's a pop rivet, but it could be a
>standard rivet as well. Should I fasten it with #6 screws and lock nuts for
>maintainability? Or is that too heavy and unnecessary? Thanks for the help.
>
>
>Guy Buchanan
>K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: JOSE PACHECO <n1915lc23@yahoo.com>
Randy,
Thanks for the sugestion.I live 3 blocks from lewis university [LOT] airport .
Perfect location to build kitfox.Build and then taxi or trailer onto the airport.
Thats in lockport-romeoville IL.
I have ben trying to decide on an engine for maybe a s7.Maybe a lycoming.
Looking foward to going to oshkosh to check on any material I will need.
Joe
Randy Daughenbaugh <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh"
Joe,
Where are you located? Post your location and I'll bet that a couple near
by 'Fox owners will identify themselves and you can look aat their planes
and get advice first hand. Maybe even talk/visit some in progress.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOSE PACHECO
Subject: Kitfox-List: new member
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: JOSE PACHECO
Hi all
Just sold my beech sundowner.Great undervalued machine but very expensive
when ad s
and sb s come nocking.I have been thinking of building a kitfox.This would
be my first ho
me built.My question is where do I start.I have the know how when it comes
to machines.
Have 2 1/12 car garage and money for project.
Thanks
Joe
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
---------------------------------
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: Tyres ... again |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Michel, I intended to respond to the why question, but time got away from
me. The smooth tires or a very small rib will not catch rocks that can
damage the fabric if thrown at sufficient velocity.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tyres ... again
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Thanks Jose and Torgeir.
>
> Torgeir Mortensen wrote:
>> This is unshaved, because it's a Kitfox :) ..
>
> Very unshaved and virile, indeed, Sir! :-)
> But then ... why are mine shaved? Is it because,
> 1) It gives less drag
> 2) It's easier to land on
> 3) It's kinder to the grass
> 4) It's a reminiscence of the time Kitfoxes were flown by skinheads? :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Windshield Fasteners |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
All,
I used a pan head type machine screw and used an o-ring washer beneath
it, so it "nests" into a counter sunk base in the plexiglass. It takes some
practice to get the right depth so the o-ring compresses properly without too
much head to plexiglass tension. Works great so far !!! No leaks and no
cracks.
Jeff Smathers
John King wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>
> Guy,
>
> I prefer to use #6 SS flat head screws with SS Tinnerman washers. I
> countersink the windshield holes to fit the Tinnerman washers. I also
> use #6 self locking nuts, the type that are riveted in place. Just make
> sure you do not secure the screws tightly. I tighten the screws just
> enough to allow the Tinnerman washers to move slightly with side
> pressure. This is necessary to allow for expansion of the plastic
> windshield in extreme temperatures. The screws also allow for easy
> removal. Aluminum rivets require drilling to remove and do not allow
> for temperature expansion. Screws take more work to install, but save
> tons of work later.
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
>
> Guy Buchanan wrote:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
> >
> >Hi everybody.
> > What should I use to fasten my windshield/skylight. The manual
> >says aluminum rivet, I assume that's a pop rivet, but it could be a
> >standard rivet as well. Should I fasten it with #6 screws and lock nuts for
> >maintainability? Or is that too heavy and unnecessary? Thanks for the help.
> >
> >
> >Guy Buchanan
> >K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Tires question extended,, |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
All,
I have the standard Aero Trainer 6.0 x 6.0 tires and was thinking of
trying to find a 6.0 x 8.0, or in that range....Anyone have a source?
Thanks, Jeff Smathers
Message 18
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Subject: | Windshield Fasteners |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
I used 2.2mm stainless scews and nyliock nuts. Wee bit more weight but being
able to controll the tension on on the screen is a positive to me. Makes it
easy when change tome comes too.
John A. Series 5 Turbo Subaru..
From: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Windshield Fasteners
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Hi everybody.
What should I use to fasten my windshield/skylight. The manual
says aluminum rivet, I assume that's a pop rivet, but it could be a
standard rivet as well. Should I fasten it with #6 screws and lock nuts for
maintainability? Or is that too heavy and unnecessary? Thanks for the help.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Become a fitness fanatic @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/health
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Latest on 912 coolant and oil? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
Hey Lowell,
What's the skinny on the Motul 5100? I've been using
it now for a while?? I just finished up a case my
last oil change...
Thanks,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Latest on 912 coolant and
oil?
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
<lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>I suspect that Rotax will have a hard time
recommending another engine
>manufacturers oil, so my "guess" is that the Honda
oil would otherwise be on
>the list. That said, the reason I am using the oil
from the accepted list
>is that an I used to use and previously listedt was
delisted because of the
>the EPA mandated formula change on that brand of oil
(Motul 5100). I began
>using an oil formulated and sold by California Power
Systems (a Rotax
>distributor). Eric said they were planning on
testing that oil for the
>foaming problem - nothing yet. I have discontinued
using that oil.
>
>Keep in mind that the reason for the new dipstick
was at least in part to
>compensate for the foaming issue. Rotax has
published a number of bulletins
>regarding the problems of air in the oil system and
this is an area where
>caution is appropriate as it seems to me that the
vibration issues with our
>engines - spinning a prop - is a bit different than
a motorcycle, spinning
>a chain. I'm usually a bit skeptical of
manufacturers claims if it has to
>do with recommending their own products etc. but
Eric spent a bit of time on
>this issue last year at OSH and it got me a little
concerned.
>
>Lowell
>
>Lowell
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Latest on 912 coolant and
oil?
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and
Roger McConnell"
>> <rdmac@swbell.net>
>>
>> Paul,
>> I too am getting ready to fire up my engine
in the next few days. I
>> agree with John on the Honda oil. I called
Lockwood and asked them about
>> using the Honda oil and there comment was 'If it's
good enough for Honda
>> engines its good enough for Rotax'. The oil is a
full synthetic with gear
>> additives. As for coolant I'm using Dexcool and
distilled water 50/50.
>> Roger Mac
>> N619RM ready to taxi
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On
Behalf Of jdmcbean
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Latest on 912 coolant
and oil?
>>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean"
<jdmcbean@cableone.net>
>>
>> Paul,
>> I'm sure you'll get varying comments.
Usually it's a good idea to
>> follow
>> the Engine manufactures recommendation. OK I've
said it.... I follow the
>> previous recommendation.. 50/50 mix. Use a
extended life Antifreeze that
>> is
>> Silicate Free and I use distilled water.
>>
>> As for oil... Myself and several others have had
great success with Honda
>> Pro GN4. You can get it from the local Honda
shop, it has the gear
>> additive
>> for the gear box.. Designed for high rpm engines.
>>
>> I run 100LL on the 912S and add the TCP that I
sell religiously. I also
>> change the oil every 25-30 hours. The results say
you could probably go
>> longer but I have always felt that the oil is the
life blood of the engine
>> and therefore I change it regularly. Because of
the lead in the fuel I do
>> pull the tank and clean it as well... "get the
lead out"
>>
>>
>> Fly Safe !!
>> John & Debra McBean
>> www.sportplanellc.com
>> "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On
Behalf Of Paul Seehafer
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Latest on 912 coolant and
oil?
>>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer"
<av8rps@tznet.com>
>>
>> All,
>>
>> I'm getting ready to run my 912ul on my model IV,
so I went and read all
>> of
>> that (very confusing) stuff on the www.rotax-
owners.com site for the
>> latest
>> and greatest on coolants and oils, plus I searched
the kitfox list for
>> info.
>> But I haven't found anything real current. And
seeing how this stuff
>> seems
>> to be continually changing, I thought I had better
ask all of you before
>> putting the wrong stuff in my engine.
>>
>> So, my questions are;
>>
>> - Has there been any updated information on
coolant requirements?
>>
>> - Is Evans Waterless coolant still the way to go?
>>
>> - How much coolant will I need to buy for my 912ul
Model IV (no heater
>> core)
>>
>> - Is it ok to use standard coolant in the 912
yet? (I tend to go places
>> that are pretty far off the beaten path. At times
regular coolant can be
>> hard enough to find, much less Waterless EVANs NPG)
>>
>> - What is the best oil to run?
>>
>> - And last but not least, I heard I have to bleed
the oil and coolant
>> systems of trapped air prior to starting the
engine. Is this true? And
>> how
>> does one do it if it is?
>>
>> Suggestions? Ideas? Advice?
>>
>> Paul Seehafer
>> Central Wisconsin
>> Model IV-1200 912ul on Aerocet Amphibs
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>_-
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Message 20
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Subject: | Re: 912S Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
In a message dated 7/9/2005 3:08:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rjdaugh@rapidnet.com writes:
Randy,
Thanks for asking.
Now with the "engine mount" ID'd as the problem, I will jump in. I have the
series 7 firewall forward on my series 5. I had to send the engine mount
back to SkyStar. They modified it for no cost, but did charge me for
shipping and for powedercoating.
They know what is needed, and can fix it quickly.
I talked with Frank at SkyStar and the issue is the round cowl. The mount
for the Series VII is designed for the smooth cowl and will fit the HD starter
and is retrofittable to the Series V smooth cowl. (I'm guessing you have
the smooth cowl?) Evidently there is no retrofit or new design for the round
cowl. To modify the existing mount or develop a new one is currently cost
prohibitive. The only available solution is to use the original starter.
Lockwood says it will work this way, but certainly the HD starter is preferred.
I
guess if SkyStar had a crystal ball they could have planned for the HD
starter:) It could have been worse. By the way, Frank was great. We spent a
lot
of time trying to come up with alternatives, but sometimes things are the
way they are.
Did you determine what the "goo" is soluble in?
Not sure what the goo was, but the best guess is probably congealed coolant
from the test runs. It cleaned up real easy. When rubbed between my fingers
it just disappeared into a damp spot. I think I got it all, but of course I
can't see deep into the system. A good flush will be done before refilling
with coolant.
Do Not Archive
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: 912S Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
In a message dated 7/9/2005 11:32:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Mdkitfox@aol.com writes:
All:
Please excuse the redo of this posting. I noticed that when I copied and
pasted from the original email, AOL places a blue bar on what's copied.
However, this blue bar doesn't transmit thru the email so I italicized the
questions to make the email easier to read.
Randy,
Thanks for asking.
Now with the "engine mount" ID'd as the problem, I will jump in. I have
the
series 7 firewall forward on my series 5. I had to send the engine mount
back to SkyStar. They modified it for no cost, but did charge me for
shipping and for powedercoating.
They know what is needed, and can fix it quickly.
I talked with Frank at SkyStar and the issue is the round cowl. The mount
for the Series VII is designed for the smooth cowl and will fit the HD
starter
and is retrofittable to the Series V smooth cowl. (I'm guessing you have
the smooth cowl?) Evidently there is no retrofit or new design for the
round
cowl. To modify the existing mount or develop a new one is currently cost
prohibitive. The only available solution is to use the original starter.
Lockwood says it will work this way, but certainly the HD starter is
preferred. I
guess if SkyStar had a crystal ball they could have planned for the HD
starter:) It could have been worse. By the way, Frank was great. We
spent a lot
of time trying to come up with alternatives, but sometimes things are the
way they are.
Did you determine what the "goo" is soluble in?
Not sure what the goo was, but the best guess is probably congealed coolant
from the test runs. It cleaned up real easy. When rubbed between my
fingers
it just disappeared into a damp spot. I think I got it all, but of course
I
can't see deep into the system. A good flush will be done before
refilling
with coolant.
Do Not Archive
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: 912S Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
In a message dated 7/9/2005 11:41:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Mdkitfox@aol.com writes:
Please excuse the redo of this posting. I noticed that when I copied and
pasted from the original email, AOL places a blue bar on what's copied.
However, this blue bar doesn't transmit thru the email so I italicized the
questions to make the email easier to read.
Guess what? Italics do not transmit either. I give up. We're bright
enough to figure it out anyway.
Sorry about that.
Do Not Archive
Rick Weiss
Series V Speedster N39RW, 912S
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