Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:23 AM - Re: Tachometer Cable Length (Michel Verheughe)
2. 12:29 AM - Cowling / windshield seal (Michel Verheughe)
3. 06:12 AM - Re: Tachometer Cable Length (Vic Jacko)
4. 06:13 AM - Re: Cowling / windshield seal. Gap (Ceashman@aol.com)
5. 07:22 AM - Re: Cowling / windshield seal (Lowell Fitt)
6. 11:51 AM - Re: New Member and question (eccles)
7. 12:27 PM - Re: Cowling / windshield seal (John Stoner)
8. 12:58 PM - Re: New Member and question (chris t gandy)
9. 02:41 PM - Re: Tachometer Cable Length (Michel Verheughe)
10. 02:55 PM - Re: Cowling / windshield seal. Gap (Michel Verheughe)
11. 03:06 PM - Our very own... (Randy Daughenbaugh)
12. 08:03 PM - BACK FROM OSHKOSH! (RAY Gignac)
13. 09:06 PM - Re: Cowling / windshield seal. Gap (Ceashman@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tachometer Cable Length |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Vic Jacko wrote:
> Grant, If I remember on N-88VJ I just shortened the cable and made it
> work. You will want it to have just a little slack for engine movement.
To be taken with a grain of salt, guys: I think that all tachometers are simply
a way to pick a pulse and feed it to an analogue or digital display, using a
rectifier and damper, or a smith trigger and digital pulse counter. The length
of the cable is irrelevant. This is not the case when the cable is part of a
resistor (as in a thermocoupler) or a resonant antenna system, though.
In my opinion, cut the cable to fit. That's what I did with my Jabiru.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cowling / windshield seal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Ceashman@aol.com wrote:
> is a letter "P" shaped white rubber strip that done the job fantastic.
That sounds like a good idea, Eric. Does your plane have a camlock mounted on a
bracket in the centerline, then camlocks on the sides, near the doors? Is the
gap between the windshield and cowling constant? Mine is wider on the sides.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Tachometer Cable Length |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Michel, I believe Grant is talking about a "mechanical" drive cable.
do not archive
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tachometer Cable Length
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Vic Jacko wrote:
>> Grant, If I remember on N-88VJ I just shortened the cable and made it
>> work. You will want it to have just a little slack for engine movement.
>
> To be taken with a grain of salt, guys: I think that all tachometers are
> simply
> a way to pick a pulse and feed it to an analogue or digital display, using
> a
> rectifier and damper, or a smith trigger and digital pulse counter. The
> length
> of the cable is irrelevant. This is not the case when the cable is part of
> a
> resistor (as in a thermocoupler) or a resonant antenna system, though.
> In my opinion, cut the cable to fit. That's what I did with my Jabiru.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling / windshield seal. Gap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
In a message dated 7/31/2005 3:30:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
michel@online.no writes:
Eric. Does your plane have a camlock mounted on a
bracket in the centerline, then camlocks on the sides, near the doors? Is the
gap between the windshield and cowling constant? Mine is wider on the sides.
Hi Michel.
I don,t know what you mean about the camlock mounted on a bracket in the
centerline!
Mine is a 1997 Classic IV. the join from top to lower cowling does have the
retained winged camlocks all the way on the sides with the exception of the
last rear. this is a removable winged camlock screw. I did not use the retaining
spring washer on the last screw. Otherwise I cannot take the cowling off, read
below.
Now' the you speak of the gap being consistent all the way and yours being
wider at the sides.
Long time ago when I visited the big two airshows I noticed on some Kitfox's
that the rear of the top cowling was sprung out. (you know the last 3 inches
or so.) I noticed some had this 3 inches tucked under the door and some had
this cut in line with the door and this is what I would consider "sprung out"
This also showed more gap between the windshield. Even the Skystar demo plane,
at
the time, had this problem.
When I was building, I noticed that I would be having the same problem if I
didn't find a remedy. So I made two L brackets out of chromoly and welded a
bracket on the door post. Now when I place the top cowling I need to tuck the
rear part behind the L bracket before pushing in and turning the winged camlocks.
This is why the last camlock is removable. The doors close over this rear
edge of the top cowling the gap is constant to the windshield and the stripe of
my color scheme has a good unbroken look to it. And there is no stress on the
door while closing, trying to push the cowling to the door frame.
I done this during the build and I had to touch up the paint after welding. I
think if you have a friend with a mig welder and some welding blankets (to
protect) this can easily be taken care of. Remove the carpet and side kick
panels, You may also have the fuel line tied to the right lower door post. cut
the
wire ties and place a small sheet of aluminum to protect the fuel line.
Perhaps drain the fuel first.
Of course, you can do this if you have not cut the top cowling too short at
the rear. The cowling has to be flush with the rear of the door post tube, so
that it can be slid between the door post tube and the L bracket. But thinking
again. It should not matter, it is better to have this bracket hold the
cowling than use the door to squeeze the cowling tight!
Michel. I understand, if the top cowling is sprung out at the rear. It will
be difficult to create a good water barrier at the windshield/cowling transition
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling / windshield seal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
One of the guys in the early days fabricated a gutter that he atached to the
lower edge of the windshield that directed any stray water out of harms way.
He was one of the early 1000 hour kitfox pilots that just started flying all
over the place in all kinds of weather after building. His was a Series V.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Cowling / windshield seal
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Ceashman@aol.com wrote:
>> is a letter "P" shaped white rubber strip that done the job fantastic.
>
> That sounds like a good idea, Eric. Does your plane have a camlock mounted
> on a
> bracket in the centerline, then camlocks on the sides, near the doors? Is
> the
> gap between the windshield and cowling constant? Mine is wider on the
> sides.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | New Member and question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "eccles" <eccles@chartermi.net>
Hey gang
there was a guy named Merle Williams outa The Arizona area who manufactured
a lot of Kitfox improvement parts and accessories, and one of the
improvements was a cowl to windshield seal. The seal is about 2.5 inches
wide and is attached to the cowl with an weather strip adhesive I have one
on my model five and have no problem with water leaking in ,, i tried to
find his company on the net but have had no luck maybe some of you might
know where he can be located , if i remember right his Fox was a winner at
Oshkosh around 1996 maybe skystar could be of some help.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: New Member and question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Dan McIntyre wrote:
> I do have one question for the list, what is the best seal between the
cowling and the
> windscreen, can't seem to find much information about it.
I haven't seen an answer to your question yet, Dan, so I'll answer to say
that
... I don't know. I guess you have the same windscreen and cowling as my
model
3 and yes, when it rains, water is coming in between and on the instruments.
I
use a duct tape to prevent water coming on my transponder. I have considered
making a gasket of silicon rubber but ... I am still waiting for a better
idea.
My Kitfox is hangared and I seldom have it in the rain. Should I be
somewhere
else say, overnight, I cover her with a watertight tarpaulin that I made to
fit.
Otherwise I also have a Jabiru 2200 with now about 70 hours and I just love
it.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling / windshield seal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Stoner" <john@dakotacubaircraft.com>
My solution for this problem is to let it leak Past the cowling and catch it
under the cowl.
I use the foil backed bubble wrap insulation from the building supply store
and cut it to fit the sides of the lower cowl between the door and firewall.
Then overlap the side pieces with a top piece between the windshield and the
firewall. Seal tightly to the windscreen and firewall with aluminum tape
(duct tape does not last as long here as the aluminum tape).
When it rains the water runs down the windscreen, under the cowl, hits the
insulation and drains off to the sides under the cowl to drip out the
bottom.
The insulation is easily removeable and reuseable at annual condition
inspections, or other maintenance.
Also provides a tiny bit of insulation, and reduces the velocity of the wind
coming through the cabin. Both much appreciated when the OAT peaks out a 5
degrees (f).
John Stoner
KF III, 582
Alaska
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: New Member and question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: chris t gandy <jusplanefun@juno.com>
I have just received information from Murle Williams this past week. He
does not have a web page, but his phone number is 602-978-0553. He has a
lot of kitfox building experience, and interesting to talk to.
On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:50:51 -0500 "eccles" <eccles@Chartermi.net>
writes:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "eccles" <eccles@chartermi.net>
>
> Hey gang
> there was a guy named Merle Williams outa The Arizona area who
> manufactured
> a lot of Kitfox improvement parts and accessories, and one of the
> improvements was a cowl to windshield seal. The seal is about 2.5
> inches
> wide and is attached to the cowl with an weather strip adhesive I
> have one
> on my model five and have no problem with water leaking in ,, i
> tried to
> find his company on the net but have had no luck maybe some of you
> might
> know where he can be located , if i remember right his Fox was a
> winner at
> Oshkosh around 1996 maybe skystar could be of some help.
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michel
> Verheughe
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: New Member and question
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
> <michel@online.no>
>
> Dan McIntyre wrote:
> > I do have one question for the list, what is the best seal between
> the
> cowling and the
> > windscreen, can't seem to find much information about it.
>
> I haven't seen an answer to your question yet, Dan, so I'll answer
> to say
> that
> ... I don't know. I guess you have the same windscreen and cowling
> as my
> model
> 3 and yes, when it rains, water is coming in between and on the
> instruments.
> I
> use a duct tape to prevent water coming on my transponder. I have
> considered
> making a gasket of silicon rubber but ... I am still waiting for a
> better
> idea.
> My Kitfox is hangared and I seldom have it in the rain. Should I be
> somewhere
> else say, overnight, I cover her with a watertight tarpaulin that I
> made to
> fit.
> Otherwise I also have a Jabiru 2200 with now about 70 hours and I
> just love
> it.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Chris Gandy jusplanefun@juno.com 1-(256)-784- 6121
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tachometer Cable Length |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Vic Jacko wrote:
> Michel, I believe Grant is talking about a "mechanical" drive cable.
Oops, sorry! Didn't think of that!
Michel
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling / windshield seal. Gap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Ceashman@aol.com wrote:
> I don,t know what you mean about the camlock mounted on a bracket in the
> centerline!
Aha! This is when saving old photos comes handy! Here is one that shows my
camlocks (not winged but screws).
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/cowling.jpg
Now, I understand what you are saying about the door but, from the photo, you
can see that is nothing really "pressing" the cowling against the side of the
windshield. Please bear in mind that I didn't build my Kitfox. But everyone who
saw the plane said that it has been extremely well built in 1993.
So far, my best idea for a tight sealing is to make my own rubber gasket by
applying a bead of silicon rubber on the cowling and thick wax on the lexan.
Put it in place and let dry.
But I am not sure it will work well.
Incidentally you can see on the photo my transponder. If it rains, water falls
directly on it. Not good! That's why I simply use black duct tape on the top of
the cowling. The drawback is that I have to replace it each time I remove that
part of the cowling.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Hey folks, here is a story about our own Paul Seehafer at the Oshkosh
Seaplane base. No wonder he is busy right now!
http://www.airventure.org/2005/satjuly30/seaplane_base.html
Some day I am going to get to Oshkosh!
My wife and I did fly around Devils Tower and stopped at Hulett for
breakfast this morning. Great flight!
Randy
Message 12
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| Subject: | BACK FROM OSHKOSH! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
Got back from Oshkosh Thursday night, was a great time. I flew my Model IV to
the airshow with a friend. Camped out in the homebuilt camping area. I only
saw about 12 other kitfoxs at the show. By the way flew from Bowie Maryland to
Oshkosh and back 18 hours total on the hobbs. Had to circle Rush lake for an
Hour so the big formations could land first!! but overall it was a nice trip,
will do it again next year.
Ray Gignac, N2BH
Model IV, 1200 912S
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling / windshield seal. Gap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
In a message dated 7/31/2005 5:56:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
michel@online.no writes:
Now, I understand what you are saying about the door but, from the photo, you
can see that is nothing really "pressing" the cowling against the side of the
windshield.
Hello Michel.
From the photo, I can now see the centerline bracket. I do not have this on
my Classic IV.
Looking at the photo, I welded the "L" bracket on the door frame tube above
the cluster weld and slightly lower than the aluminum windshield flange.
Michel, From the photo it is difficult to know if there is any spread at the
rear of the top cowling that needs to be pushed closer to the window.
the cam locks lower on the door post look after the lower cowling. But when I
buttoned up the top cowling there was noticeable spreading out at the top
rear.
Maybe it is because you have a Mark III that the cowling is different.
Again. from my earlier posting if you don't have a wider gap at the rear of
the cowling to windshield then the "P" weatherstrip should work as a good water
guard from getting the instruments and your toes wet.
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