Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:55 AM - Re: first flight - oil injection question (kitfox@gto.net)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: first flight-oil injection question (Marco Menezes)
3. 06:23 AM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (flier)
4. 07:25 AM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (Ted Palamarek)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: first rebuild (Ron Liebmann)
6. 07:35 AM - Re: matco brake pads (Paul Peerenboom)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: first rebuild (John Perry)
8. 08:06 AM - Re: matco brake pads (John Perry)
9. 08:11 AM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (RAY Gignac)
10. 08:15 AM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (kitfoxjunky)
11. 09:59 AM - Flaperons as Trim (Guy Buchanan)
12. 10:48 AM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (flier)
13. 10:50 AM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (flier)
14. 12:36 PM - Re: first flight (wwillyard@aol.com)
15. 01:38 PM - Rotax Carb Sync (kitfoxjunky)
16. 03:24 PM - Re: Rotax Carb Sync (PWilson)
17. 03:24 PM - Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! (PWilson)
18. 04:06 PM - Re: Rotax Carb Sync (Herbert R Gottelt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: first flight - oil injection question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
Marco,
THe small drop in oil tells me something not correct. Do you have a
rotax manual? It will show you to align the 2 marks on oil injection
pump.
Them make sure you get near full travle of the oil pump arm upwards
with throttle movement. ALso oil tank to be higher than pump and make
sure if flows by gravity. Pump is to be bled as well.
Here is a manual
http://www.ultralightnews.ca/rotax503/rotax2strokepdf/503installationmanual.pdf
Go to section 12.1 to find info.
Here is a few articles on oil injection
http://www.ultralightnews.com/alerts1/alert421.htm
article on oils http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oiltest.htm
Hope this helps you all,
Kirby...... Ontario Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marco Menezes" <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: first flight - oil injection question
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes
<msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
> Thanks Kirby. It was a thrill. On break-in I did run 100:1 premix for
1 hour as suggested by Rotax. Next 2 hours of run time have been
straight 92 octane. Do I understand you to mean that the 1/4" drop in
oil tank contents over 3 hours of operation is normal? I am using
Airwolf AV-2 (TSC3). Maybe i'll continue to burn pre-mix for a few more
hours.
>
> Carb circlips are already set to richest (position 3). I'm using the
11G2 needle. Do I need a richer needle? WOT rpms were at about 6800.
At static, it ran about 6200. Should I coarsen the prop a bit more? The
way she jumped off the ground I'm not concerned with giving up climb
performance.
>
> As for antifreeze, I'm using an aluminum compatible type, 50:50 mix
but not with distilled. Our well water is somewhat "hard" but is free
of chlorine.
>
> Marco Menezes
> Model 2 - 582 N99KX
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
>
> Marco, Congrats on your completion. !!
>
> Now the 582 will run 50 to 70 to 1 on the oil injection. It is
> mechanical and very dependable. The oil pump lever will travel with
the
> throttle. Check with your rotax manual to ensure proper set up. One
a
> new engine i think it advisable to add some oil to your fuel as well
at
> 100 to 1 in case you have an issue with your injection. ( yours
sounds
> like it is working )
> Use good mineral oil as well with a API -TC rating . Bombardier XPS
or
> Pennzoil for air cooled engines. Do not use outboard oil as it only
> has a TCw3 rrating and it not what rotax recommends.
>
> EGT 1250 is hot yes.... check your plugs to see the colour and
> possible lower the clips on the needles (this raises the needle
richer)
> .
>
> Water temp 180 is fine in this warm climate. I think trotax says 176
> F max plus add in eror in guages and sender--your are prolly close.
> What is your antifreee type and mixture? you need to use phospahte
> free and distilled water.
>
>
> Kirby....
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: re: first flight-oil injection question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Congrats yourself Greg! I know exactly the exhiliration you felt when that little
bird jumped into the air. Flying a cub does not compare. Interesting that #374
and 375 went airborne within a week of each other, 15 years after kits were
delivered.
I have adjusted the oil pump lever per the manual and bled air out of the oil line. Next fill ups will be 100:1 premix until I verify normal oil consumption. Theres a good article on Rotax oil injection system (and many other Rotax topics) at http://www.georgia-ultralights.com/page/page/898129.htm . I'm gonna hold off repitching the prop and rejetting the carbs to see what these adjustments to oil system do.
First flight pics will be posted soon. Thanks to everyone who responded.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
GONER752@aol.com wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: GONER752@aol.com
Congrats on the first flight, Marco. I flew my mod. II for the first time
last weekend. What a blast! I have s/n 375, I've wondered how you were coming
along. As for the injection question, afraid I can't be of much help except to
say that the injection tank was already gone from mine when I bought it. So I
premix 50:1. Talking with some folks awhile back, they were of the opinion
that premixing was the way to go anyway. They cited the possibility of the
injection system going down in flight or running the reservoir dry. I haven't
heard of any problems with the injection on the 582's and given the usage rate
you describe, running the oil out doesn't seem very likely either, so,
there's my two cents worth. I wish I had learned to fly in the fox, it's a bit
like
starting all over again. The rudder? That's for turning the nose
wheel,right? : ) Anyway, congrats and enjoy your new 'fox.
Greg Gerace
375kl
mod II 582
---------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
Hey Ray,
Make sure they backpurge the muffler / tailpipe with
argon as they TIG the tailpipe back on or you'll be
replacing it again soon. The vibration on the
muffler will get all the tailpipes sooner or later.
I added a couple of 3/16" x 3/4" stainless supports
from the edge of the muffler at a 45 down to the
tailpipe and haven't had any further problems.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac"
<KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
>
>Hello Folks,
>
>After my trip to Oshkosh and back, I pulled my
cowlings off the kitfox and discovered a disturbing
view! My exhaust tube had separated below the weld
on the muffler. The weld did not crack, looks like
it was pulled straight out of the muffler housing
itself, around the weld. My reason for investigating
was due to a rough sounding engine which I thought
might be fouled plugs. Well I know the reason now.
Will take photos and post for all to see very soon.
I am taking the muffler to a race shop and hope they
can repair. By the way, Oshkosh was a great trip in
the Kitfox.
>
>Ray Gignac, N2BH
>Model IV, 1200 912S
>
>
>_-
======================================================
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browse
Subscriptions page,
FAQ,
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>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | CRACKED MUFFLER! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
Ted
Don't leave us hanging --- what happens if you don't purge
the muffler after using TIG to weld it???
Thanks
Ted
<<<<SNIP>>>>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
Hey Ray,
Make sure they backpurge the muffler / tailpipe with
argon as they TIG the tailpipe back on or you'll be
replacing it again soon.
Regards,
Ted
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: first rebuild |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Liebmann" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I have a request from Lister Robert Beck who just arrived in the Chicago
area from his home in Japan where he works. He has just over 300 hours on
his 582 and wants to send it out for rebuild to a shop as close to Chicago
as possible.
Can anyone recommend a shop for him? He will be in the USA until the 20th of
August so he has to work fast.
Thanks much, Ron N55KF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: matco brake pads |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Peerenboom" <ppeerenbo@charter.net>
I got new brake pads at Oshkosh from Matco last week. I have a 93 Model IV
with the 8 inch rims. If this is yours I can get you that number. The matco
people were very good they sold me the new pad which are now semi metallic
not the old organic pads. I nave not installed them yet but I am told there
much better. Cars converted years ago.
Paul N102DG
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: matco brake pads
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
>
> Hello fellow flyers , does anyone have the part number for the brake pads
> for the matco brakes or the rapco pad number to cross them to ?.
> I really need to replace mine and am havign trouble finding the part
> number
>
>
> Thanks
> John Perry
> Kitfox 2 N718PD
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: first rebuild |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
http://www.rdaerosports.com/
Call Rob he is the best only 1250 bucks for a rebuild on 582 includes crank
I buy my parts from him sends them out either the day i call or next day
never had to wait for weeks. complete gasket set for 582 is only 65 dollars
with shipping for 582 .
take care fly safe fly low fly slow
John Perry
-------Original Message-------
From: Ron Liebmann
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: first rebuild
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Liebmann" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I have a request from Lister Robert Beck who just arrived in the Chicago
area from his home in Japan where he works. He has just over 300 hours on
his 582 and wants to send it out for rebuild to a shop as close to Chicago
as possible.
Can anyone recommend a shop for him? He will be in the USA until the 20th of
August so he has to work fast.
Thanks much, Ron N55KF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: matco brake pads |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
I have the same brakes and wheels ,Dont keep me hangin lol . I need the
number for them . I like to have brakes helps to stop lol .
Thanks very much
Fly safe fly low fly slow
John Perry
Kitfox 2 N718PD
Serial # 718
-------Original Message-------
From: Paul Peerenboom
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: matco brake pads
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Peerenboom" <ppeerenbo@charter.net>
I got new brake pads at Oshkosh from Matco last week. I have a 93 Model IV
with the 8 inch rims. If this is yours I can get you that number. The matco
people were very good they sold me the new pad which are now semi metallic
not the old organic pads. I nave not installed them yet but I am told there
much better. Cars converted years ago.
Paul N102DG
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: matco brake pads
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
>
> Hello fellow flyers , does anyone have the part number for the brake pads
> for the matco brakes or the rapco pad number to cross them to ?.
> I really need to replace mine and am havign trouble finding the part
> number
>
>
> Thanks
> John Perry
> Kitfox 2 N718PD
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
I took my exhaust system to a company that custom builds stainless race exhaust,
and also does all the repairs for the local airports in my area. I will ask
him about your suggestion. Thanks!
Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: flier<mailto:FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com> ; kitfox-list<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net<mailto:FLIER@sbcglobal.net>>
Hey Ray,
Make sure they backpurge the muffler / tailpipe with
argon as they TIG the tailpipe back on or you'll be
replacing it again soon. The vibration on the
muffler will get all the tailpipes sooner or later.
I added a couple of 3/16" x 3/4" stainless supports
from the edge of the muffler at a 45 down to the
tailpipe and haven't had any further problems.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com<mailto:KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>>
To: "kitfox-list" <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
Subject: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac"
<KITFOXPILOT@msn.com<mailto:KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>>
>
>Hello Folks,
>
>After my trip to Oshkosh and back, I pulled my
cowlings off the kitfox and discovered a disturbing
view! My exhaust tube had separated below the weld
on the muffler. The weld did not crack, looks like
it was pulled straight out of the muffler housing
itself, around the weld. My reason for investigating
was due to a rough sounding engine which I thought
might be fouled plugs. Well I know the reason now.
Will take photos and post for all to see very soon.
I am taking the muffler to a race shop and hope they
can repair. By the way, Oshkosh was a great trip in
the Kitfox.
>
>Ray Gignac, N2BH
>Model IV, 1200 912S
>
>
>_-
browse
Subscriptions page,
FAQ,
List
>_-
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! |
Serialize complete at 08/08/2005 11:15:33 AM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Hi Ray.
Been there. One of my biggest complaints wrt my Kitfox over the last four
years has been the muffler. It cracked several times in my first two years
of operation. I too run a 912S. Eventually I gave up trying tor repair
it and purchased a new exhaust system. I think my problem was related to
prop vibration, and the new prop is much smoother so maybe I am ok
now...but I also think the 912S high compression is a factor. I purchased
a DVD recently that has installation tips for the 912 series of A/C. In
the exhaust section..every sample installation showed the use of ball
joints. They insisted this was the only way to configure a reliable
system. Although some KF 912S operators seem to get away with their stock
Skystar exhaust systems, and so far my new exhaust has been trouble free
(but I have only 10 hrs on it ytd), I intend to install ball joints in the
very near future.
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
Hello Folks,
After my trip to Oshkosh and back, I pulled my cowlings off the kitfox and
discovered a disturbing view! My exhaust tube had separated below the
weld on the muffler. The weld did not crack, looks like it was pulled
straight out of the muffler housing itself, around the weld. My reason
for investigating was due to a rough sounding engine which I thought might
be fouled plugs. Well I know the reason now. Will take photos and post
for all to see very soon. I am taking the muffler to a race shop and hope
they can repair. By the way, Oshkosh was a great trip in the Kitfox.
Ray Gignac, N2BH
Model IV, 1200 912S
Message 11
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| Subject: | Flaperons as Trim |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
All,
I'm out on the web looking for a cool, light trim lever I can use
for my manual trim. I go to a Challenger ultralight site and see, under the
manual trim, the phrase "Not necessary if you have flaperons." So now I'm
wondering, do I need a manual trim? Should I just use the flaps for trim,
or is that draggy? I currently have the notched flap "upgrade" installed,
but maybe I should remove that, or modify it with some vernier capability
so I can use it as a trim. What do you think?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 12
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| Subject: | CRACKED MUFFLER! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
You get 'sugar' on the back side of the weld that
weakens the weld and leaves it susceptable to
corrosion. Using the inert argon backfill during the
welding provides the same atmosphere as within the
arc field on the welded side.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
<temco@telusplanet.net>
>
>Ted
>
>Don't leave us hanging --- what happens if you don't
purge
>the muffler after using TIG to weld it???
>
>Thanks
>Ted
>
>
><<<<SNIP>>>>
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>
>Hey Ray,
>
>Make sure they backpurge the muffler / tailpipe with
>argon as they TIG the tailpipe back on or you'll be
>replacing it again soon.
>
>Regards,
>
>Ted
>
>
>_-
======================================================
======
browse
Subscriptions page,
FAQ,
List
>_-
======================================================
======
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
I'm sure they'll know if they're used to doing SS.
Common practice. Sometimes folks not as interested
in reliability will shortcut and not do the right
thing. The weld will look fine, and last for a
while, but will eventually fail.
Good luck Ray,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac"
<KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
>
>I took my exhaust system to a company that custom
builds stainless race exhaust, and also does all the
repairs for the local airports in my area. I will
ask him about your suggestion. Thanks!
>
>Ray
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: flier<mailto:FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-
list@matronics.com> ; kitfox-list<mailto:kitfox-
list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 10:23 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier"
<FLIER@sbcglobal.net<mailto:FLIER@sbcglobal.net>>
>
> Hey Ray,
>
> Make sure they backpurge the muffler / tailpipe
with
> argon as they TIG the tailpipe back on or you'll be
> replacing it again soon. The vibration on the
> muffler will get all the tailpipes sooner or
later.
> I added a couple of 3/16" x 3/4" stainless supports
> from the edge of the muffler at a 45 down to the
> tailpipe and haven't had any further problems.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
>
>
> --- Original Message ---
> From: "RAY Gignac"
<KITFOXPILOT@msn.com<mailto:KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>>
> To: "kitfox-list" <kitfox-
list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: CRACKED MUFFLER!
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac"
> <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com<mailto:KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>>
> >
> >Hello Folks,
> >
> >After my trip to Oshkosh and back, I pulled my
> cowlings off the kitfox and discovered a disturbing
> view! My exhaust tube had separated below the weld
> on the muffler. The weld did not crack, looks like
> it was pulled straight out of the muffler housing
> itself, around the weld. My reason for
investigating
> was due to a rough sounding engine which I thought
> might be fouled plugs. Well I know the reason
now.
> Will take photos and post for all to see very
soon.
> I am taking the muffler to a race shop and hope
they
> can repair. By the way, Oshkosh was a great trip
in
> the Kitfox.
> >
> >Ray Gignac, N2BH
> >Model IV, 1200 912S
> >
> >
> >_-
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> List
> >_-
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
>_-
======================================================
======
browse
Subscriptions page,
FAQ,
List
>_-
======================================================
======
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: first flight |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: wwillyard@aol.com
Congratulations Marco. It's nice to hear about another Kitfox in the neighborhood.
Bill Willyard
Classic IV, 912, Grand Rapids, Michigan
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>After 16 years in the building, Model 2 s/n 374 (Rotax 582) flew for the first
>time today! Following a very short takeoff roll, we circled the patch at Big
>Rapids, Michigan for about .7 hrs.
Message 15
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Serialize complete at 08/08/2005 04:37:33 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Was going to purchase a couple of vacuum gages to sync the carbs on my
912S...then someone forwarded me a cheaper alternative. Basically you make
a manometer out of some tubing and a yard stick, with some oil in it.
Connected to both the carb vacuum ports, if they are not in sync the oil
moves away from the centre point. Not sure if anyone has tried this...but
from what I can see it would work fine.
http://www.challengers101.com/Manometer.html
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Carb Sync |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: PWilson <pwilson@climber.org>
Any auto part place shop that caters to sports cars, like English or
European ones sell a sync device called "Uni-Syn Model A". They been
in used for years and years and work fine on any multi carb setup. It
works on the principal of a small plastic bead that can be adjusted
to float in a tube. All you do is make both or all the carbs are the
same at all throttle settings. It can be adjusted for idle and part
throttle, and full throttle on small engines. Don't be snowed by the
hype the newer a better gadgets. Trust the engine tuners who have
used them for race cars to motorcycles and any other engine with more
than one carb.
I think you can find one on Google using "carburetor unisyn"
Paul
========
At 01:37 PM 8/8/2005, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
>Was going to purchase a couple of vacuum gages to sync the carbs on my
>912S...then someone forwarded me a cheaper alternative. Basically you make
>a manometer out of some tubing and a yard stick, with some oil in it.
>Connected to both the carb vacuum ports, if they are not in sync the oil
>moves away from the centre point. Not sure if anyone has tried this...but
>from what I can see it would work fine.
>
>http://www.challengers101.com/Manometer.html
>
>Gary Walsh
>C-GOOT
>www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: CRACKED MUFFLER! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: PWilson <pwilson@climber.org>
There is a skystar bulletin that says to add a bracket from the
pipe to the muffler.
Paul
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Carb Sync |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt <gofalke@sbcglobal.net>
I have been using a similar arrangement for years to check the sync of both carbs.
It really works great. I don't even use a yard stick. Make the loop long enough
for plenty of it to lie on the ground and comming up on both outsides of
the cowling. Attach one end to each fitting where the crossover tube from the
intake manifolds would connect. The crossover tube must be removed. Loosely tie
the oilfilled clear plastic tube together under the aircraft in a vertical
fashion. Without the engine running, the top of the oil in the tube should be
visible somewhere in the vertical part. It should have found it's own level and
both tops should be at the same level. After engine start, the carbs are syncronised
perfectly if the oil levels remain even to each other.
Herb Gottelt
Mt. Prospect, IL
912UL, M4-1200
<kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
Was going to purchase a couple of vacuum gages to sync the carbs on my
912S...then someone forwarded me a cheaper alternative. Basically you make
a manometer out of some tubing and a yard stick, with some oil in it.
Connected to both the carb vacuum ports, if they are not in sync the oil
moves away from the centre point. Not sure if anyone has tried this...but
from what I can see it would work fine.
http://www.challengers101.com/Manometer.html
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
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