Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:02 AM - Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM (kitfoxjunky)
2. 04:26 AM - Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM (kitfoxjunky)
3. 05:11 AM - Re: Dynon (Cloughley, Bill)
4. 07:11 AM - Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM (Lowell Fitt)
5. 07:35 AM - Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM - 4 Lowell (kitfoxjunky)
6. 07:54 AM - Re: Dynon (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
7. 07:59 AM - Rotax 912 series carb syncing (kitfoxjunky)
8. 08:34 AM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (Clifford Begnaud)
9. 09:05 AM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (Clifford Begnaud)
10. 09:43 AM - Re: Re: first rebuild a good close recommendation to you (rliebmann@comcast.net)
11. 10:20 AM - Mike do you have a 912? (owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 01:12 PM - Re: Re: first rebuild a good close recommendation to you (Aerobatics@aol.com)
13. 01:37 PM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (Jeffrey Puls)
14. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: sight gauges (Rick)
15. 02:07 PM - Re: Re: sight gauges (Michel Verheughe)
16. 04:14 PM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (Clifford Begnaud)
17. 04:29 PM - 582 cockpit fumes (jareds)
18. 04:39 PM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (John Anderson)
19. 05:04 PM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (Clifford Begnaud)
20. 05:12 PM - Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM (John King)
21. 05:28 PM - Re: Rib Templates - Classic 4 Empennage (Bill Pleso)
22. 07:29 PM - Dynon (Jim Gilliatt)
23. 08:00 PM - Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing (Randy Daughenbaugh)
24. 09:34 PM - Re: Re: sight gauges (James Shumaker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM |
Serialize complete at 08/15/2005 06:01:15 AM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
I dropped into a grass strip on the weekend and made a new friend. Fellow
recently completed a RANS Courier. He did a beautiful job on it. We are
both running the Rotax 912S, but he did not have the slipper clutch. We
wanted to see whose engine seemed smoother, so we took each other for a
ride. Something that was drilling into me by the previous owner of my
plane was not to rev the engine beyond 2500 RPM until there was at least
120 deg F on the oil temp gage. This guy basically got in his plane, ran
thru his check list, then took off. I did not even see the water temp
needle come off the stop. He also let the engine idle in the 1500 RPM
range following the runup as he completed his checklist. I never take
mine below 2100 RPM as a general rule.
Any comments from the Rotax drivers on the list? Is he running the risk
of damaging his engine...or can these motors take that kind of treatment
as a general rule?
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM |
Serialize complete at 08/15/2005 07:25:27 AM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
I meant oil temp...not water temp as in the subject line above.
GW
........................................................
I dropped into a grass strip on the weekend and made a new friend. Fellow
recently completed a RANS Courier. He did a beautiful job on it. We are
both running the Rotax 912S, but he did not have the slipper clutch. We
wanted to see whose engine seemed smoother, so we took each other for a
ride. Something that was drilling into me by the previous owner of my
plane was not to rev the engine beyond 2500 RPM until there was at least
120 deg F on the oil temp gage. This guy basically got in his plane, ran
thru his check list, then took off. I did not even see the water temp
needle come off the stop. He also let the engine idle in the 1500 RPM
range following the runup as he completed his checklist. I never take
mine below 2100 RPM as a general rule.
Any comments from the Rotax drivers on the list? Is he running the risk
of damaging his engine...or can these motors take that kind of treatment
as a general rule?
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cloughley, Bill" <BCloughl@ciena.com>
Jim,
Here is a link to a Dynon installed in an RV-7 panel. The Dynon's are
popular with the Vans RV builders. I think they used one in
SpaceShipOne as well!
http://images.rvproject.com/images/panel/panel_1280x419.jpg
... Bill
Kitfox Model I/II in progress
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Gilliatt
Subject: Kitfox-List: Dynon
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Gilliatt <jim.gilliatt@att.net>
Hi Everyone,
I am interested in a Dynon EFIS, and I would like to see an example of
an instrument panel with a Dynon. If anyone has a picture such as this,
could you email it to jim.gilliatt@att.net?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Gilliatt Series 7 in progress IO240
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Gary,
My procedures are as yours. I just checked the engine manual (Rotax) and it
says to warm up at 2000 rpm until 120 F (oil temp) and then do the ignition
checks.
I read an article somewhere and it mentioned that the aluminum has a much
quicker expansion rate then the Steel components and if the engine heats too
quickly under load the differential expansion rates are the problem, i.e.
piston vs. cylinder.
I always wonder about the aircooled guys taxiing to the runup area, doing
the runup and they are gone. On a normal day, it takes about 10 minutes for
my engine to reach the 120 oil temp and I have shutters in front of the il
cooler.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
> <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
> I dropped into a grass strip on the weekend and made a new friend. Fellow
> recently completed a RANS Courier. He did a beautiful job on it. We are
> both running the Rotax 912S, but he did not have the slipper clutch. We
> wanted to see whose engine seemed smoother, so we took each other for a
> ride. Something that was drilling into me by the previous owner of my
> plane was not to rev the engine beyond 2500 RPM until there was at least
> 120 deg F on the oil temp gage. This guy basically got in his plane, ran
> thru his check list, then took off. I did not even see the water temp
> needle come off the stop. He also let the engine idle in the 1500 RPM
> range following the runup as he completed his checklist. I never take
> mine below 2100 RPM as a general rule.
>
> Any comments from the Rotax drivers on the list? Is he running the risk
> of damaging his engine...or can these motors take that kind of treatment
> as a general rule?
>
>
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM - 4 Lowell |
Serialize complete at 08/15/2005 10:35:00 AM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
The reason they pulled the Rotax engines from the Katana series of planes
was because the students were not warming them up properly, and it caused
maintenance issues. I have referred this fellow to the AME who put in my
slipper clutch. He was in charge of maintenance at Katana for years, and I
am sure he will caution him too.
I talked to another guy running the 912S on an anphib Kitfox. He indicated
he regularly idles at 1450 rpm...otherwise he moves through the water too
fast. What kind of idle to you normally use on the ground?
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
"Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Sent by: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
08/15/2005 10:10 AM
Please respond to kitfox-list
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
cc:
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Gary,
My procedures are as yours. I just checked the engine manual (Rotax) and
it
says to warm up at 2000 rpm until 120 F (oil temp) and then do the
ignition
checks.
I read an article somewhere and it mentioned that the aluminum has a much
quicker expansion rate then the Steel components and if the engine heats
too
quickly under load the differential expansion rates are the problem, i.e.
piston vs. cylinder.
I always wonder about the aircooled guys taxiing to the runup area, doing
the runup and they are gone. On a normal day, it takes about 10 minutes
for
my engine to reach the 120 oil temp and I have shutters in front of the il
cooler.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
> <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
> I dropped into a grass strip on the weekend and made a new friend.
Fellow
> recently completed a RANS Courier. He did a beautiful job on it. We are
> both running the Rotax 912S, but he did not have the slipper clutch. We
> wanted to see whose engine seemed smoother, so we took each other for a
> ride. Something that was drilling into me by the previous owner of my
> plane was not to rev the engine beyond 2500 RPM until there was at least
> 120 deg F on the oil temp gage. This guy basically got in his plane,
ran
> thru his check list, then took off. I did not even see the water temp
> needle come off the stop. He also let the engine idle in the 1500 RPM
> range following the runup as he completed his checklist. I never take
> mine below 2100 RPM as a general rule.
>
> Any comments from the Rotax drivers on the list? Is he running the risk
> of damaging his engine...or can these motors take that kind of treatment
> as a general rule?
>
>
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Jim,
I am a dealer for Dynon, and other EFIS units. On my website
www.blueskyaviation.net you can go to the RV side and look at panels. I
have a Dynon here that is surplus at this time I am willing to sell.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gilliatt
Subject: Kitfox-List: Dynon
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Gilliatt <jim.gilliatt@att.net>
Hi Everyone,
I am interested in a Dynon EFIS, and I would like to see an example of
an instrument panel with a Dynon. If anyone has a picture such as this,
could you email it to jim.gilliatt@att.net?
Thanks in advance,
Jim Gilliatt Series 7 in progress IO240
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
Serialize complete at 08/15/2005 10:59:23 AM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the carbs
on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing a DVD
on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the gages
in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I sycned
them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000 range...and at
idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done this
yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make sure
you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down well.
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
alignment.
Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object. Make
sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move each
blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by putting
very thin shims behind the prop hub.
Cliff
>
> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the carbs
> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing a DVD
> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the gages
> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I sycned
> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000 range...and at
> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done this
> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make sure
> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down well.
>
>
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
I forgot to add....
Use a digital level or a laser to set the pitch of the blades, if they are
individually adjustable like the warp drive prop. With the little bubble
level that comes with the warp drive, they claim only 1/4 degree accuracy.
With a digital level you can get 1/10 degree accuracy and with a laser you
can probably do that or better, if that's even possible.
With these 3 things, carb sync, blade indexing and blade pitch, you can make
your Rotax 912 feel like flying behind a turbine.
Cliff
> Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
> alignment.
> Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object. Make
> sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move
> each
> blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by putting
> very thin shims behind the prop hub.
> Cliff
>
>>
>> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the
>> carbs
>> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing a
>> DVD
>> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
>> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the gages
>> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I sycned
>> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000 range...and
>> at
>> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done
>> this
>> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
>> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make sure
>> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down well.
>>
>>
>> Gary Walsh
>> C-GOOT
>> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: first rebuild a good close recommendation to you |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: rliebmann@comcast.net
-------------- Original message --------------
Thanks Dave,
And thanks to all who have responded to my request. Robert has chosen one rebuilder
within driving distance of our Chicago area. But, I forgot who it was.
Ken Rivers camped with the Ambassadors up at AirVenture. Nice guy he is.
Ron
DO NOT ARCHIVE>
> have a request from Lister Robert Beck who just arrived in the Chicago
> area from his home in Japan where he works. He has just over 300 hours on
> his 582 and wants to send it out for rebuild to a shop as close to Chicago
> as possible.
> Can anyone recommend a shop for him? He will be in the USA until the 20th of
> August so he has to work fast.
>
>
> Thanks much, Ron N55KF
>
>
> Hi Ron, this guy did a 150 hour on my 582BH
> He is an Full service AP ( and a Rotax Service Center) and I stayed and
> watched him do it. First rate.
>
> Maybe not the cheapest........ but Ill go back. I flew in, stayed one day
> flew back home the next.
>
> Dave
> Airport 5K6
> Skies The Limit
> Ken Rivers
> Work: 262-862-9099
> Cell 847-226 9674
> email: _kenrivers@owc.net_ (mailto:kenrivers@owc.net)
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------- Original message --------------
Thanks Dave,
And thanks to all who have responded to my request. Robert has chosen one rebuilder
within driving distance of our Chicago area. But, I forgot who it was.
Ken Rivers camped with the Ambassadors up at AirVenture. Nice guy he is.
Ron
DO NOT ARCHIVE
have a request from Lister Robert Beck who just arrived in the Chicago
area from his home in Japan where he works. He has just over 300 hours on
his 582 and wants to send it out for rebuild to a shop as close to Chicago
as possible.
Can anyone recommend a shop for him? He will be in the USA until the 20th of
August so he has to work fast.
Thanks much, Ron N55KF
Hi Ron, this guy did a 150 hour on my 582BH
He is an Full service AP ( and a Rotax Service Center) and I stayed and
watched him do it. First rate.
Maybe not the cheapest........ but Ill go back. I flew in, stayed one day
flew back home the next.
Dave
Airport 5K6
Skies The Limit
Ken Rivers
Work: 262-862-9099
Cell 847-226 9674
email: _kenrivers@owc.net_ (mailto:kenrivers@owc.net
)
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by:
Subject: Mike do you have a 912?
Mike do you have a Rotax 912 on your plane?
Robert
Performance is engineered. My Model IV-1200 Speedster came in at...
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: first rebuild a good close recommendation to you |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
it was me! Dave Patrick KF2 582
used him last year I called him in advance to see if he could take care of
you....
Take care
Dave
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Cliff,
Where can I by one of those lasers? I have never liked the bubble deal on
my Warp Drive. Are they expensive? Thanks, Jeff Puls 912UL
> [Original Message]
> From: Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 8/15/2005 12:05:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
<shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>
> I forgot to add....
> Use a digital level or a laser to set the pitch of the blades, if they
are
> individually adjustable like the warp drive prop. With the little bubble
> level that comes with the warp drive, they claim only 1/4 degree
accuracy.
> With a digital level you can get 1/10 degree accuracy and with a laser
you
> can probably do that or better, if that's even possible.
> With these 3 things, carb sync, blade indexing and blade pitch, you can
make
> your Rotax 912 feel like flying behind a turbine.
> Cliff
>
> > Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
> > alignment.
> > Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object.
Make
> > sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move
> > each
> > blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by
putting
> > very thin shims behind the prop hub.
> > Cliff
> >
> >>
> >> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the
> >> carbs
> >> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing a
> >> DVD
> >> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
> >> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the
gages
> >> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I
sycned
> >> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000
range...and
> >> at
> >> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done
> >> this
> >> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
> >> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make sure
> >> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down
well.
> >>
> >>
> >> Gary Walsh
> >> C-GOOT
> >> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
> >>
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: sight gauges |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
John,
Great idea for the fuel tube. I will be putting in a couple of spray tubes
this coming annual. I have a JPI fuel flow but it is real comforting to look
up and actually see the fuel, especially when it gets low.
Rick N656T
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Stoner
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: sight gauges
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Stoner"
<john@dakotacubaircraft.com>
The sight gauge balls can be bought from FletchAir:
http://www.fletchair.com/index.asp
Part # F113, $3.29 each.
On my KitFox I put a red nozzle tube from a WD40 can inside each sight gauge
tube.
The different refractive indices of the sight gauge tube with and without
fuel causes the red tube to have a 'joggle' in its appearance at the fuel
level. Has worked great for 13 years, cost = 0.
Regards,
John Stoner
KF III, 582
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: sight gauges |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Rick wrote:
> Great idea for the fuel tube. I will be putting in a couple of spray tubes
> this coming annual.
Yep! Great idea, John! ... only that I don't understand it. Please could
someone explain it in layman's terms and ... to an aging foreigner? :-)
I also have problems reading my fuel, especially when in the dark hangar, on a
winter day. That's when they are usually half full. Once in the air, they
become half empty! :-)
Thanks in advance,
Michel
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
I've never used a laser, I used a digital level, about $100. But I use it
for many other things. You could probably go to any hardware store and find
a cheap laser. The trick with either of these is to build a cradle that fits
on the prop blade and holds the laser or digital level. I made mine out of
wood, and it was just a cradle that had 3 contact points and would slide up
the prop blade. It allowed repeatabilty and stopped at the same spot on each
blade. The 3 contact points had a small groove that fit the edge of the prop
blade.
I no longer have that plane or prop and the cradle went with it, so I can't
even take a picture of it for you. But I'm sure you can figure out
something that will work. Just make sure it allows precision and
repeatabilty.
Cliff
>
>
> Cliff,
> Where can I by one of those lasers? I have never liked the bubble deal on
> my Warp Drive. Are they expensive? Thanks, Jeff Puls 912UL
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Date: 8/15/2005 12:05:20 PM
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
>>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
> <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>
>> I forgot to add....
>> Use a digital level or a laser to set the pitch of the blades, if they
> are
>> individually adjustable like the warp drive prop. With the little bubble
>> level that comes with the warp drive, they claim only 1/4 degree
> accuracy.
>> With a digital level you can get 1/10 degree accuracy and with a laser
> you
>> can probably do that or better, if that's even possible.
>> With these 3 things, carb sync, blade indexing and blade pitch, you can
> make
>> your Rotax 912 feel like flying behind a turbine.
>> Cliff
>>
>> > Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
>> > alignment.
>> > Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object.
> Make
>> > sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move
>> > each
>> > blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by
> putting
>> > very thin shims behind the prop hub.
>> > Cliff
>> >
>> >>
>> >> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the
>> >> carbs
>> >> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing a
>> >> DVD
>> >> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
>> >> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the
> gages
>> >> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I
> sycned
>> >> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000
> range...and
>> >> at
>> >> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done
>> >> this
>> >> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
>> >> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make
>> >> sure
>> >> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down
> well.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Gary Walsh
>> >> C-GOOT
>> >> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>> >>
>> >> do not archive
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | 582 cockpit fumes |
Doug White <dw_skyjockey@msn.com>, nielsenk@comcast.net,
Ray gignac <KITFOXPILOT@att.net>, Ted bryant <bbaviation@olg.com>,
Paul Servaty <paulservaty@aol.com>
Gecko/20040804 Netscape/7.2 (ax)
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Earlier this year I sent out a few message campaigns regarding tracking
down cockpit fumes.
While some had suggested holes in firewall and others swirling exhaust
outside the cockpit I was certain that there had to be a way to cut down
on the source of the fumes.
I've built dozens of custom harley's, before it was the thing, and have
noticed what they are calling header wraps. This company has them in a
rainbow of colors but i opted for the cheap stuff.
I coated elbow and inside portion of wrap with hi temp rtv and wrapped
the exhaust connections or elbows from spring to spring connector and
then re attached the springs. After the first smell of burning rtv
after .5 hrs of i have flown several hours with the CO2 detector
registering about normal with little discoloration.
Before i had to fly with the doors open and detector on firewall would
still turn dark blue!! bad bad.
I still have some small leaks in the firewall but outside of a totally
presurized cabin at least i can fly safely!
Hope this helps! Site below for the wraps.
www.ozcustoms.com
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
You measure the blade angle at the tip Clifford?? John A.
From: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
<shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
I've never used a laser, I used a digital level, about $100. But I use it
for many other things. You could probably go to any hardware store and find
a cheap laser. The trick with either of these is to build a cradle that fits
on the prop blade and holds the laser or digital level. I made mine out of
wood, and it was just a cradle that had 3 contact points and would slide up
the prop blade. It allowed repeatabilty and stopped at the same spot on each
blade. The 3 contact points had a small groove that fit the edge of the prop
blade.
I no longer have that plane or prop and the cradle went with it, so I can't
even take a picture of it for you. But I'm sure you can figure out
something that will work. Just make sure it allows precision and
repeatabilty.
Cliff
>
>
>Cliff,
>Where can I by one of those lasers? I have never liked the bubble deal on
>my Warp Drive. Are they expensive? Thanks, Jeff Puls 912UL
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Date: 8/15/2005 12:05:20 PM
>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
><shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>
>>I forgot to add....
>>Use a digital level or a laser to set the pitch of the blades, if they
>are
>>individually adjustable like the warp drive prop. With the little bubble
>>level that comes with the warp drive, they claim only 1/4 degree
>accuracy.
>>With a digital level you can get 1/10 degree accuracy and with a laser
>you
>>can probably do that or better, if that's even possible.
>>With these 3 things, carb sync, blade indexing and blade pitch, you can
>make
>>your Rotax 912 feel like flying behind a turbine.
>>Cliff
>>
>> > Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
>> > alignment.
>> > Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object.
>Make
>> > sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move
>> > each
>> > blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by
>putting
>> > very thin shims behind the prop hub.
>> > Cliff
>> >
>> >>
>> >> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the
>> >> carbs
>> >> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing a
>> >> DVD
>> >> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
>> >> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the
>gages
>> >> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I
>sycned
>> >> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000
>range...and
>> >> at
>> >> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done
>> >> this
>> >> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
>> >> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make
>> >> sure
>> >> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down
>well.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Gary Walsh
>> >> C-GOOT
>> >> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>> >>
>> >> do not archive
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
John,
No, the cradle that I had would slide up the blade about 6-8". I really
didn't care what the actual angle was, I was only concerned with getting the
blades set so that the engine turned a certain desired static RPM. Then I
wanted to get all blades set exactly the same. I have no idea at what angle
my blades were set, and couldn't care less.
Cliff
>
> You measure the blade angle at the tip Clifford?? John A.
>
>
> From: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 17:13:37 -0600
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
> <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>
>
> I've never used a laser, I used a digital level, about $100. But I use it
> for many other things. You could probably go to any hardware store and
> find
> a cheap laser. The trick with either of these is to build a cradle that
> fits
> on the prop blade and holds the laser or digital level. I made mine out of
> wood, and it was just a cradle that had 3 contact points and would slide
> up
> the prop blade. It allowed repeatabilty and stopped at the same spot on
> each
> blade. The 3 contact points had a small groove that fit the edge of the
> prop
> blade.
> I no longer have that plane or prop and the cradle went with it, so I
> can't
> even take a picture of it for you. But I'm sure you can figure out
> something that will work. Just make sure it allows precision and
> repeatabilty.
> Cliff
>
>>
>>
>>Cliff,
>>Where can I by one of those lasers? I have never liked the bubble deal on
>>my Warp Drive. Are they expensive? Thanks, Jeff Puls 912UL
>>
>>
>>>[Original Message]
>>>From: Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>>Date: 8/15/2005 12:05:20 PM
>>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
>>>
>>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
>><shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>>
>>>I forgot to add....
>>>Use a digital level or a laser to set the pitch of the blades, if they
>>are
>>>individually adjustable like the warp drive prop. With the little bubble
>>>level that comes with the warp drive, they claim only 1/4 degree
>>accuracy.
>>>With a digital level you can get 1/10 degree accuracy and with a laser
>>you
>>>can probably do that or better, if that's even possible.
>>>With these 3 things, carb sync, blade indexing and blade pitch, you can
>>make
>>>your Rotax 912 feel like flying behind a turbine.
>>>Cliff
>>>
>>> > Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
>>> > alignment.
>>> > Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object.
>>Make
>>> > sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move
>>> > each
>>> > blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by
>>putting
>>> > very thin shims behind the prop hub.
>>> > Cliff
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the
>>> >> carbs
>>> >> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing
>>> >> a
>>> >> DVD
>>> >> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
>>> >> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the
>>gages
>>> >> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I
>>sycned
>>> >> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000
>>range...and
>>> >> at
>>> >> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done
>>> >> this
>>> >> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
>>> >> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make
>>> >> sure
>>> >> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down
>>well.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> Gary Walsh
>>> >> C-GOOT
>>> >> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>>> >>
>>> >> do not archive
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912S Water Temps and RPM |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Gary,
Low engine idle below 2200 is nor recommended by Rotax. It is hard on
the gearbox long term.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
kitfoxjunky wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
>I dropped into a grass strip on the weekend and made a new friend. Fellow
>recently completed a RANS Courier. He did a beautiful job on it. We are
>both running the Rotax 912S, but he did not have the slipper clutch. We
>wanted to see whose engine seemed smoother, so we took each other for a
>ride. Something that was drilling into me by the previous owner of my
>plane was not to rev the engine beyond 2500 RPM until there was at least
>120 deg F on the oil temp gage. This guy basically got in his plane, ran
>thru his check list, then took off. I did not even see the water temp
>needle come off the stop. He also let the engine idle in the 1500 RPM
>range following the runup as he completed his checklist. I never take
>mine below 2100 RPM as a general rule.
>
>Any comments from the Rotax drivers on the list? Is he running the risk
>of damaging his engine...or can these motors take that kind of treatment
>as a general rule?
>
>
>Gary Walsh
>C-GOOT
>www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>do not archive
>
>
>_
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rib Templates - Classic 4 Empennage |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bill Pleso" <bill77@cox.net>
Colin,
I have a set of ribs and stiffeners for the rudder & vert stab that I
haven't installed yet, so I could set you up with some templates. There's a
little more that goes with the modification. There's a convex and concave
piece where the rudder joins the vert stab (they did not do this on the vert
stab for some reason and you do end up with a gap). Contact me direct and
I'll go into it in more detail.
Bill
Message 22
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Gilliatt <jim.gilliatt@att.net>
Thanks to Bill, Noel, Yoshie and John for the pictures. It is a great
help in visualizing what it would look like on the instrument panel.
This list surely is a great place to get some help if you need it.
Thanks again,
Jim Gilliatt
Message 23
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| Subject: | Rotax 912 series carb syncing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
I made my cradle for the laser by first making a rough fit on the blade by
cutting the prop profile into a 2X4 on a band saw. Then I put some saran
wrap over the blade and some bondo in the profile on the 2X4 and then
pressed it on the blade. After the bondo sets, take it off and peel the
saran wrap off and it fits the same every time. I did use some fingernail
polish to mark the blade the same distance from the hub so it is in the same
place each time. I mounted the laser so it points down to the floor.
Initially I used a level on the blade to make it perfectly horizontal before
I put the laser on it, but I finally realized that if you have a line on the
floor parallel to the fuselage, the prop will always be in the same position
if the laser mark is anywhere on the line.
A little trig will show that an eighth of an inch is equal to an eighth of a
degree this way. If you put the prop straight up and down and aim the laser
for the hangar wall, precision will go way up. I think the eighth of an
inch is adequate.
I am sure that I got this from this list at some point in time.
Randy - Series 5/7 912S - lovin' it!
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clifford
Begnaud
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
<shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
John,
No, the cradle that I had would slide up the blade about 6-8". I really
didn't care what the actual angle was, I was only concerned with getting the
blades set so that the engine turned a certain desired static RPM. Then I
wanted to get all blades set exactly the same. I have no idea at what angle
my blades were set, and couldn't care less.
Cliff
>
> You measure the blade angle at the tip Clifford?? John A.
>
>
> From: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 17:13:37 -0600
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
> <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>
>
> I've never used a laser, I used a digital level, about $100. But I use it
> for many other things. You could probably go to any hardware store and
> find
> a cheap laser. The trick with either of these is to build a cradle that
> fits
> on the prop blade and holds the laser or digital level. I made mine out of
> wood, and it was just a cradle that had 3 contact points and would slide
> up
> the prop blade. It allowed repeatabilty and stopped at the same spot on
> each
> blade. The 3 contact points had a small groove that fit the edge of the
> prop
> blade.
> I no longer have that plane or prop and the cradle went with it, so I
> can't
> even take a picture of it for you. But I'm sure you can figure out
> something that will work. Just make sure it allows precision and
> repeatabilty.
> Cliff
>
>>
>>
>>Cliff,
>>Where can I by one of those lasers? I have never liked the bubble deal on
>>my Warp Drive. Are they expensive? Thanks, Jeff Puls 912UL
>>
>>
>>>[Original Message]
>>>From: Clifford Begnaud <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>>Date: 8/15/2005 12:05:20 PM
>>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 series carb syncing
>>>
>>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud"
>><shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
>>>
>>>I forgot to add....
>>>Use a digital level or a laser to set the pitch of the blades, if they
>>are
>>>individually adjustable like the warp drive prop. With the little bubble
>>>level that comes with the warp drive, they claim only 1/4 degree
>>accuracy.
>>>With a digital level you can get 1/10 degree accuracy and with a laser
>>you
>>>can probably do that or better, if that's even possible.
>>>With these 3 things, carb sync, blade indexing and blade pitch, you can
>>make
>>>your Rotax 912 feel like flying behind a turbine.
>>>Cliff
>>>
>>> > Another thing that can help keep your engine running smooth is blade
>>> > alignment.
>>> > Rotate the blades by hand indexing them against a stationary object.
>>Make
>>> > sure the distance from the stationary object is the same when you move
>>> > each
>>> > blade past it. Try to get them within 1/8". You can adjust this by
>>putting
>>> > very thin shims behind the prop hub.
>>> > Cliff
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >> I originally followed some published procedures to manually sync the
>>> >> carbs
>>> >> on my 912S by adjusting the throttle cable lengths. After reviewing
>>> >> a
>>> >> DVD
>>> >> on 912 installation tips from HomeBuilderHelp.com...I determined that
>>> >> syncing using a vacuum gage was pretty straightforward. With the
>>gages
>>> >> in place, I was surprised how out of sync my carbs were. After I
>>sycned
>>> >> them..the engine was noticeably smoother in the 3000 - 5000
>>range...and
>>> >> at
>>> >> idle. I think the CHT temps dropped a bit too. If you have not done
>>> >> this
>>> >> yet, I would highly recommend it. Caution..standing behind the prop
>>> >> adjusting the throttle cable lengths will mess up your hair. Make
>>> >> sure
>>> >> you have someone sitting in the cockpit, and the tail is tied down
>>well.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> Gary Walsh
>>> >> C-GOOT
>>> >> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>>> >>
>>> >> do not archive
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: sight gauges |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Michel
I found that those little white diode flashlights that are about the size of a
quarter (US $.25) work very well. I keep a green one and a white one velcroed
to my dash. They last like forever and cost all of about $2.
Jim Shumaker
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
Rick wrote:
> Great idea for the fuel tube. I will be putting in a couple of spray tubes
> this coming annual.
Yep! Great idea, John! ... only that I don't understand it. Please could
someone explain it in layman's terms and ... to an aging foreigner? :-)
I also have problems reading my fuel, especially when in the dark hangar, on a
winter day. That's when they are usually half full. Once in the air, they
become half empty! :-)
Thanks in advance,
Michel
do not archive
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