Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:20 AM - Re: Tail Wheel to Tricycle on IV 1200 (Michael Gibbs)
2. 01:20 AM - Re: Eurofox (Michael Gibbs)
3. 01:20 AM - Re: Rib Stitching (Michael Gibbs)
4. 04:24 AM - SV: fuel flow (Michel Verheughe)
5. 05:11 AM - Re: Altitude vs Speed (W Duke)
6. 05:56 AM - Re: Eurofox (Jose M. Toro)
7. 06:10 AM - 912S fuel line size (Todd Lesh)
8. 07:27 AM - Re: Rib Stitching (Lowell Fitt)
9. 08:00 AM - Re: Rib Stitching ()
10. 09:16 AM - Re: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup (kitfoxjunky)
11. 09:31 AM - Re: fuel flow (John Stoner)
12. 12:31 PM - Fw: Re:prop pitch (Ron Liebmann)
13. 12:49 PM - Re: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup (Lowell Fitt)
14. 12:50 PM - Re: Re:prop pitch (Don Smythe)
15. 01:15 PM - Re: Re:prop pitch (kitfox@gto.net)
16. 01:17 PM - Re: Rib Stitching (Lowell Fitt)
17. 01:44 PM - Heater Hose (Al Thomason)
18. 04:35 PM - Re: Rib Stitching (John Larsen)
19. 04:41 PM - Re: Rib Stitching (Ronald K. Stevens)
20. 05:21 PM - Re: SV: Bungee Cords (Rex & Jan Shaw)
21. 07:19 PM - Fw: M4-912 overheating (Chuck & Deanna Schieffer)
22. 07:31 PM - Re: Fw: M4-912 overheating (Jay Fabian)
23. 07:38 PM - Re: Re Landing gear bungy cords. (randy bortree)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel to Tricycle on IV 1200 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Jerry asks:
>What does it take to go from tail wheel to tricycle?
>Does engine mount need to be changed?
No.
>There is another clevis on the frame but not sure if it will work to
>move the gear back?
It will, but the structure above it (the tubing behind the seat back)
must be reinforced. I used some flat sheet steel welded into the
triangle of tubes above the rear gear mount points.
>Does anyone have the parts?
SkyStar has the nose wheel assembly but you'll also need a mounting
plate to be welded to the bottom of the fuselage just aft of the
firewall.
I think I put some pictures on the matronics picture area of mine.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>Your 2350 hours chromemoly fuselage would take better care of you in
>case of a crash. Michael Gibbs from the Kitfox list can confirm this.
I don't know anything about Eurofoxes, but I absolutely agree with
Jose that were it not for the strength of the Kitfox structure I
would not be here today.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
John sez:
>Dean Wilson checked with the FAA years ago and they verified that
>wing ribs with one inch cap strips such as your wings, do not need
>rib stitching.
The FAA's main job is to push paper around, why would you ask them
such a question? The manufacturer of the glue--PolyFiber--says that
it is NOT adequate and that rib-stitching IS required.
For many years Denney/SkyStar said that it was not necessary and
there are plenty of 'foxes flying around without rib stitching, but I
will put my trust in the people that developed the product and tested
it extensively.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: Lowell Fitt [lcfitt@sbcglobal.net]
> This is a common "complaint". I think you are right that equal fuel flow
> should be expected, but there are a lot of factors in play here.
Incidently, I have come in the habit of refuelling (when I have time) only from
the right wing's side. I fill to the top, then wait. After a few minutes, the
fuel level has gone down as it flows into the left wing's tank. The I top it
up, again.
By doing that, I check that fuel is really flowing from one wing tank, to the header
tank, and the other tank. No foreign body has blocked the lines to the header
tank. When, after that, I check the fuel for water, from the gascolator,
ahead of the firewall, and the fuel is running out in my sample glass, I know
that the fuel system is relatively ok.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Altitude vs Speed |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
Here is a link to some calculators. Near the bottom is TAS via GPS.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/aviationconverters.html
Maxwell S6/TD/IO240
jareds <jareds@verizon.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds
When flying high performance planes the POH always listed an optimal
altitude and winds aside you would typically fly faster if you had the
time to crawl up to higher altitudes because the air was thinner.
With a fox i'm really enjoying flying on the deck but as i take more
trips is it worth it with a substantial amount of speed increase to
climb up to higher altitudes? 5mph on a 200 mile trip makes a big
difference!!
Any comments or is the fox just too un -earodynamic to make much difference.
---------------------------------
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
Michael:
It happens that I was wrong, and the Eurofox has a
fuselage similar to the Avid and Kitfox. This also
includes the Rans S-6 since the cage that surrounds
the pilot has he same kind of construction. Chromoly
steel tube fuselages provide better protection than
aluminum built fuselages, and I'm glad you are alive
to confirm this.
Jose
--- Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs
> <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>
> >Your 2350 hours chromemoly fuselage would take
> better care of you in
> >case of a crash. Michael Gibbs from the Kitfox list
> can confirm this.
>
> I don't know anything about Eurofoxes, but I
> absolutely agree with
> Jose that were it not for the strength of the Kitfox
> structure I
> would not be here today.
>
> Mike G.
> N728KF
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jose M. Toro, P.E.
Kitfox II/582->Jabiru 2200
"A slow flight in the Caribbean..."
Message 7
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| Subject: | 912S fuel line size |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Todd Lesh" <theleshfamily@gbronline.com>
I have been told by some 1/4" and by others 5/16" fuel line size for a 912S.
What are some of you using? Thanks
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Michael,
I just scanned my Polyfiber manual and can't find the "not adequate and
required" part. They do discuss alternate methods - clips, screws, etc and
mention that if deviating from the original manufacturers recommendation FAA
approval is required. That, of course for certified aircraft.
I need help here.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gibbs" <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>
> John sez:
>
>>Dean Wilson checked with the FAA years ago and they verified that
>>wing ribs with one inch cap strips such as your wings, do not need
>>rib stitching.
>
> The FAA's main job is to push paper around, why would you ask them
> such a question? The manufacturer of the glue--PolyFiber--says that
> it is NOT adequate and that rib-stitching IS required.
>
> For many years Denney/SkyStar said that it was not necessary and
> there are plenty of 'foxes flying around without rib stitching, but I
> will put my trust in the people that developed the product and tested
> it extensively.
>
> Mike G.
> N728KF
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
>From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>Date: Fri Aug 19 09:26:25 CDT 2005
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
>Here's a quote directly from the PolyFiber web site:
Do I have to rib lace? My kit manufacturer says it's not necessary.
Lift acts like a giant vacuum cleaner, exerting a peeling force on the top of your
wing. You have to do something to hold your fabric on other than just gluing
it. Pop rivets, screws, clips, and rib lacing are designed to secure fabric
for long service lives. Rib lacing is kindest to the rib structures, and it's
really pretty easy to learn. It takes only about five hours to lace a wing. This
is great insurance and it costs very little. Yes Virginia, you have to rib
lace. But it is really a piece of cake to do. Glue alone does not hack it.
Ron
Series 6 - NSI Turbo - Cap 140
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup |
Serialize complete at 08/19/2005 12:15:06 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Don't bet me wrong. I am sure he would have no problem throttling back to
let me keep up. The reason for the posting about cleaning up my plane is
that I would rather I had to throttle back so he could keep up. That
damn ego thing. :-)
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Gary, If you did all that, I suspect you would more than keep up with
him.
Doesn't his desire for company allow for his reducing a little throttle
for
the companionship?
With our flying group we ................
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
> <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
> Having a blast flying my KF IV on wheels. My buddy has a RANS
> Coyotte...same engine...but he cruises about 15 mph faster than I do. He
> wants to go to Oshkosh together next year but I am not so sure I want to
> sit in his slip stream for 10 hrs. I have the standard round wing
struts,
> tube style gear, no wheel pants, no fairings even on the leading edge of
> the wing root. Also no gap seals between the upper surface of the hor
> stab and vert stab or the elevator and rudder controls. Droop wing tips
> too. Any one want to hazard a guess on what kind of cruise gain I could
> get if I did the mods to all these over time? I cruise about 90-100 mph
> now, depending on how I pitch the IVO prop with the 912S.
>
>
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Stoner" <john@dakotacubaircraft.com>
Marco,
I noticed this same uneven fuel flow when I started flying my KF III. By
experimenting I found that I could control which wing tank drained faster by
flying with one or the other wing slightly high, that is, in uncoordinated
flight.
I then chose to ignore it until I gained enough experience to start landing
on the beaches and gravel bars. Then when the plane was parked with one
wing low, and more than half full tanks, the fuel would flow from the upper
to the lower and out the vent.
A shut off valve in each wing root solved the problem, but added to fuel
management awareness. I now have three fuel valves; left wing, right wing,
and master under my left thigh.
I did not follow the manual in installing the fuel system. I thought it was
to complex, going to the firewall, back to the center mounted valve, back to
the firewall, etc. Also the fuel system was in too close proximity to the
exhaust system.
I routed the fuel system down the left side of the fuselage, and modified
the exhaust system to be entirely on the right side of the engine. This had
further benefit in being able to place the fuel pump for best efficiency
rather than prioritizing dodging the exhaust system.
Regards,
John Stoner
KF III, 582
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Liebmann" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I need some help regarding my Warp Drive prop pitch setting. I looked in
Archives but found nothing. I have the 68" Warp Drive prop with the 582/"C"
gear box and I'm wondering what other like users are are flying at.
Thanks, Ron N55KF
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
I understand. One of our frequent companions had a Coyote. Since another
airplane was slowest in our group, I can't speak as to his relative
performance. I do know that he could land very short and his climb was
excellent. Especially after he put on the CAP 140. He sold the airplane as
it was just sitting around waiting for the hub upgrade.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
> <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
> Don't bet me wrong. I am sure he would have no problem throttling back to
> let me keep up. The reason for the posting about cleaning up my plane is
> that I would rather I had to throttle back so he could keep up. That
> damn ego thing. :-)
>
> Gary Walsh
> C-GOOT
> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
> do not archive
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Gary, If you did all that, I suspect you would more than keep up with
> him.
> Doesn't his desire for company allow for his reducing a little throttle
> for
> the companionship?
>
> With our flying group we ................
>
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kitfoxjunky" <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: KF IV Classic - Operation Cleanup
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
>> <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>>
>> Having a blast flying my KF IV on wheels. My buddy has a RANS
>> Coyotte...same engine...but he cruises about 15 mph faster than I do. He
>> wants to go to Oshkosh together next year but I am not so sure I want to
>> sit in his slip stream for 10 hrs. I have the standard round wing
> struts,
>> tube style gear, no wheel pants, no fairings even on the leading edge of
>> the wing root. Also no gap seals between the upper surface of the hor
>> stab and vert stab or the elevator and rudder controls. Droop wing tips
>> too. Any one want to hazard a guess on what kind of cruise gain I could
>> get if I did the mods to all these over time? I cruise about 90-100 mph
>> now, depending on how I pitch the IVO prop with the 912S.
>>
>>
>> Gary Walsh
>> C-GOOT
>> www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RE:prop pitch |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Using other peoples numbers depends largely on where you check the angle. I
use 20" from the hub (about 3/4 length) as a reference point for all my
settings. That is, place a measuring device on the front of the blade and
push it toward the hub until it makes contact then mark 20" on the blade.
Right now, my blade is set for 27-3/4 degree with the tailwheel on the
ground. This number will change up to a degree or two (forget) if you move
the measuring device 1 inch either way on the blade.
Don Smythe
Classic IV W/ 582
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Liebmann" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
Subject: Fw: Kitfox-List: RE:prop pitch
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Liebmann" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
>
> I need some help regarding my Warp Drive prop pitch setting. I looked in
> Archives but found nothing. I have the 68" Warp Drive prop with the
> 582/"C"
> gear box and I'm wondering what other like users are are flying at.
>
> Thanks, Ron N55KF
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RE:prop pitch |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
Ron, I am using a GSC 68" on C box 3 to 1 and it works excellent.
Got amphib floats on and cruise at 80 - 82 mph + . Off the ground 400
to 500 feet and climb is 600 to 800 fpm . Off glassy water in 300 to
400 feet and shorter on rough with wind.
On wheels 1200 to 1500 fpm climb and crusie in the 90s
Your best advice assuming you know how to set your pitch is set for
static rpm of 6200 rpm. That is tied up not moving engine warmed up
and you should get 6200 rpm , once rolling it will climb to 6400 to
6500 on climbout.
Rotax 582 does not get it's full HP till 6200 so by setting it any less
you missing out on HP plus hard to tune if you not cranking Full HP.
Kirby .......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Liebmann" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
Subject: Fw: Kitfox-List: RE:prop pitch
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Liebmann"
<rliebmann@comcast.net>
>
> I need some help regarding my Warp Drive prop pitch setting. I looked
in
> Archives but found nothing. I have the 68" Warp Drive prop with the
582/"C"
> gear box and I'm wondering what other like users are are flying at.
>
> Thanks, Ron N55KF
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks Ron.
It didn't occur to me to go to the website. As you might recall, this
subject arose as a builder having already covered and painted was asking if
he needed to ribstitch which would have resulted in essentially refinishing
the wings. There are a lot of Kitfoxes out there flying without
ribstitching, however, and it's absolute necessity might be open to varying
opinions in our application, especially since the incidence of fabric
separation from a cap strip resulting in an incident sappears to be zero.
If I were in the business, I most certainly would recommend the suspenders
along with the belt, but not only on the website in the FAQ section, but in
the covering manual. I just couldn't find it in my manual. Incidentally,
they also recommend ribstitching all control surfaces, I didn't ribstitch
those and am not particularly concerned about it.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
>
>>From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>Date: Fri Aug 19 09:26:25 CDT 2005
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
>
>>Here's a quote directly from the PolyFiber web site:
>
> Do I have to rib lace? My kit manufacturer says it's not necessary.
> Lift acts like a giant vacuum cleaner, exerting a peeling force on the top
> of your wing. You have to do something to hold your fabric on other than
> just gluing it. Pop rivets, screws, clips, and rib lacing are designed to
> secure fabric for long service lives. Rib lacing is kindest to the rib
> structures, and it's really pretty easy to learn. It takes only about five
> hours to lace a wing. This is great insurance and it costs very little.
> Yes Virginia, you have to rib lace. But it is really a piece of cake to
> do. Glue alone does not hack it.
>
> Ron
> Series 6 - NSI Turbo - Cap 140
>
>
>
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Al Thomason" <alt@rockwall.net>
Where can I get 7/8" heather hose are 17MM hose. I need hoses a little longer for
a 912uls in a KF IV.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John Larsen <jopatco@mindspring.com>
Hello:
I think a good way to look at rib stitching on a wing designed to not
need rib stitching, is to consider Jim Osborn efforts. Jim is my
neighbor here in the skypark and had a career as an aeronautical
engineer for Northrop. He is also the designer of the Acro Duster. When
he built this style of wing he made his own ribs designing them with 1/4
inch cap strips, as he was going to rib stitch. If you are going to rib
stitch you do not need one inch cap strips. All aircraft like all the
Pipers, military planes have narrow cap strips and were designed to have
rib stitching or other mechanical devises to hold the fabric in place.
One must have whatever retaining method listed by the manufacturer when
you cover these planes.
I get bored very fast rib stitching and don't like adding the little
ridges to create some drag across the width of my wing. I don't rib
stitch and have over 850 hours on my wing and have hit over 140 mph IAS
without incident. When I cover an under cambered wing like the Avid and
early KF I do use stainless steel staples on the underside of the wing
as the fabric can pull loose in this area. It happened occasionally when
I was working at the factory we had a procedure to take the wing off and
re attach the fabric. No flying mishaps came from these incidents,
however if you let it go long enough the fabric could open a seam, rip
and foul the flaperon. Maybe that what happened in the accident reported
to the NTSB.
What really gives strength to the wing is the shrinking of the fabric.
It is the vise like grip exhibited by the shrunken fabric that holds the
wing together, not the glue or rib stitching. Rib stitching or other
means of retaining the fabric are necessary in a case of a puncture in
the fabric like a bird strike. The rib stitching will keep the fabric
from ballooning from air pressure and or having the puncture lead to a
large section of the fabric being ripped off.
Dean Wilson, designer of this style wing, said the wing would be just as
strong if you put no glue on the ribs where they attach to the spars. An
engineer and friends tried it and found that what Dean said was true,
the unglued wing was a strong as the glued wing. The fabric was well
glued during this test.
Your Truly For about 20 months when we will most likely go through this
tread again.
Lowell Fitt wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Michael,
>
>I just scanned my Polyfiber manual and can't find the "not adequate and
>required" part. They do discuss alternate methods - clips, screws, etc and
>mention that if deviating from the original manufacturers recommendation FAA
>approval is required. That, of course for certified aircraft.
>
>I need help here.
>
>Lowell
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Michael Gibbs" <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>>
>>John sez:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Dean Wilson checked with the FAA years ago and they verified that
>>>wing ribs with one inch cap strips such as your wings, do not need
>>>rib stitching.
>>>
>>>
>>The FAA's main job is to push paper around, why would you ask them
>>such a question? The manufacturer of the glue--PolyFiber--says that
>>it is NOT adequate and that rib-stitching IS required.
>>
>>For many years Denney/SkyStar said that it was not necessary and
>>there are plenty of 'foxes flying around without rib stitching, but I
>>will put my trust in the people that developed the product and tested
>>it extensively.
>>
>>Mike G.
>>N728KF
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Rib Stitching |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald K. Stevens" <rkstevens@verizon.net>
Yep. I plan on rib stitching my control surfaces as well as the wings.
Given my engine/prop choices, I'll likely have one of the faster ones
anyway. And, like they say...the rib stitching never hurts. But
primarily - aside from the belt and suspenders approach - I plan on rib
stitching everything simply for the peace of mind. I'll just never have
to worry 'bout it.
Besides...it looks cool :-)
However, if I had a flying 'Fox that wasn't already rib stitched...And
given the amount of Foxes out there that are not rib stitched. I
wouldn't worry about it. Just give a thorough preflight and keep an eye
on it. Like you said, there is little statistical evidence or empirical
data that would cause me to worry. There just aren't any KitFox's
falling out of the sky due to fabric de-bonding.
Ron
Lowell Fitt wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Thanks Ron.
>
>It didn't occur to me to go to the website. As you might recall, this
>subject arose as a builder having already covered and painted was asking if
>he needed to ribstitch which would have resulted in essentially refinishing
>the wings. There are a lot of Kitfoxes out there flying without
>ribstitching, however, and it's absolute necessity might be open to varying
>opinions in our application, especially since the incidence of fabric
>separation from a cap strip resulting in an incident sappears to be zero.
>
>If I were in the business, I most certainly would recommend the suspenders
>along with the belt, but not only on the website in the FAQ section, but in
>the covering manual. I just couldn't find it in my manual. Incidentally,
>they also recommend ribstitching all control surfaces, I didn't ribstitch
>those and am not particularly concerned about it.
>
>Lowell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>>Date: Fri Aug 19 09:26:25 CDT 2005
>>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rib Stitching
>>>
>>>
>>>Here's a quote directly from the PolyFiber web site:
>>>
>>>
>>Do I have to rib lace? My kit manufacturer says it's not necessary.
>>Lift acts like a giant vacuum cleaner, exerting a peeling force on the top
>>of your wing. You have to do something to hold your fabric on other than
>>just gluing it. Pop rivets, screws, clips, and rib lacing are designed to
>>secure fabric for long service lives. Rib lacing is kindest to the rib
>>structures, and it's really pretty easy to learn. It takes only about five
>>hours to lace a wing. This is great insurance and it costs very little.
>>Yes Virginia, you have to rib lace. But it is really a piece of cake to
>>do. Glue alone does not hack it.
>>
>>Ron
>>Series 6 - NSI Turbo - Cap 140
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: SV: Bungee Cords |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Hi ! Guys, I'm no bungee expert as I have Grove gear but the following is
from Service letters on the Skystar site. Perhaps it helps clarify some
questions. Rex.
Service Letter #20
SUBJECT: Shock Cords
FROM: Denney Aerocraft Company
Dear KitfoxT Builders,
Over the course of the past several months, good quality shock cord has been
increasingly difficult to obtain. The shock cords (LSC-19) included in your
landing gear kit may be fabricated of one of three different types of bungee
material.
Some of this material is of smaller diameter than the original stock. You
may have to take more wraps than indicated by the instructions, Step (22)
and Figure LGH-6.
The original material is .41" diameter and color coded with two rows of
black threads and one of red. Install it according to the manual (six
wraps).
The smaller cord is about .33" diameter and marked with 3 rows of green
threads. You will have to take about eight wraps. It seems to be good
quality bungee material and should work just as well as the original.
For a time we sent bungee material that has proven to be of inferior
quality. It is about 7/16" (.41") diameter and marked by paired bands of red
and green. These shock cords do not last at all. Return them to the factory
and we will be happy to replace them with the better - quality cords as soon
as possible.
Happy building
Dan Denney
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Fw: M4-912 overheating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer" <cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
Hello fellow Listers,
I have a M4-1200 with a 912 in it. On climbouts to about 2500 feet the engine
oil temp gets up to about 230 to 235 with the coolant temp about 210 in a 75 degree
day. I have an earls oil cooler and oil and coolant levels are full. I
usually throttle back to about 4800 to 5000 rpm at about 2000 feet to keep the
oil temp below 230. Any time I go to full throttle for extended times, (10
Min or so), the temps come up. The top of the coolant radiator is about 1.5
inches away from the belly of the a/c. I use the orange coolant but talked to
Lockwood about using the new Weaver coolant. They indicated that my temps won't
change, it just cools the cylinders better by reducing/eliminating air pockets
in the coolant passages if I understood them correctly. I understand from
the list that I could move the radiator down further into the airstream but
I am wondering if anyone has ever used any baffling under the cowling to try
to force more air through the cylinder fins. It looks like the air path of least
resistance is over the top of the engine and out the bottom. Any thoughts
on reducing temps on high power settings???
Thanks in advance,
Chuck
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: M4-912 overheating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian" <experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Hi Chuck,
I have the same set up. 4-1200 912ul.
I actually have to put duct tape over the radiator and oil cooler. Factory
set up. Even at a 75deg day to get the temps near 200 deg. Some thing else
must be up with your engine, maybe some one can add to this.
thanks
Jay F.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer" <cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fw: M4-912 overheating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer"
> <cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
>
>
> Hello fellow Listers,
> I have a M4-1200 with a 912 in it. On climbouts to about 2500 feet the
> engine oil temp gets up to about 230 to 235 with the coolant temp about
> 210 in a 75 degree day. I have an earls oil cooler and oil and coolant
> levels are full. I usually throttle back to about 4800 to 5000 rpm at
> about 2000 feet to keep the oil temp below 230. Any time I go to full
> throttle for extended times, (10 Min or so), the temps come up. The top
> of the coolant radiator is about 1.5 inches away from the belly of the
> a/c. I use the orange coolant but talked to Lockwood about using the new
> Weaver coolant. They indicated that my temps won't change, it just cools
> the cylinders better by reducing/eliminating air pockets in the coolant
> passages if I understood them correctly. I understand from the list that
> I could move the radiator down further into the airstream but I am
> wondering if anyone has ever used any baffling under the cowling to try to
> force more air through the cylinder fins. It loo!
> ks like the air path of least resistance is over the top of the engine and
> out the bottom. Any thoughts on reducing temps on high power settings???
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck
>
>
> --
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Re Landing gear bungy cords. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "randy bortree" <plane6013@earthlink.net>
Sky Star is out of Kit Fox 1 bungys for about two weeks
Randy
> [Original Message]
> From: John Perry <eskflyer@pld.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 8/18/2005 7:57:25 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re Landing gear bungy cords.
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Perry" <eskflyer@pld.com>
>
> YEAH CALL SKYSTAR AND ORDER A NEW SET
> John Perry
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: ROBERT E SIMON
> Date: 08/18/05 00:28:38
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re Landing gear bungy cords.
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: ROBERT E SIMON <bigbob196@juno.com>
>
> Hi folks,
> I think that it is time to replace the landing gear cords on my model IV.
> Please advise.
>
>
> Bob Simon
>
>
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