Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:15 AM - Re: SV: [Off-topic] Western Norway (Jeffrey Puls)
2. 04:51 AM - SV: Re: Which is the Left tank? (Michel Verheughe)
3. 07:31 AM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (Paul Seehafer)
4. 08:07 AM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
5. 08:36 AM - Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or windshield - sharing information (Paul Seehafer)
6. 08:40 AM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (Paul Seehafer)
7. 08:54 AM - Re: Rotax 912UL Fuel System (Steve Zakreski)
8. 09:33 AM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (Fox5flyer)
10. 10:05 AM - Re: SV: landings FLapperons (AMuller589@aol.com)
11. 10:36 AM - Re: SV: landings FLapperons (Andrew Matthaey)
12. 01:24 PM - Float ... (Sid Hausding)
13. 01:57 PM - Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or (Guy Buchanan)
14. 02:38 PM - Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or windshield - sharing information (Don Smythe)
15. 03:05 PM - Re: SV: landings FLapperons (AMuller589@aol.com)
16. 03:10 PM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (Ceashman@aol.com)
17. 03:58 PM - Re: SV: landings FLapperons (Andrew Matthaey)
18. 04:41 PM - Float Avids... (Sid Hausding)
19. 05:56 PM - Re: SV: landings FLapperons (kitfox@gto.net)
20. 06:01 PM - Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or windshield - sharing information (kitfox@gto.net)
21. 06:56 PM - Re: Float Avids... (Rich Williamson)
22. 07:24 PM - Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or (Guy Buchanan)
23. 10:49 PM - Re: painting Lp Aero doors (David Estapa)
24. 10:50 PM - Grove Gear (Cudnohufsky's)
25. 10:52 PM - Crossing the Pacific (Rex & Jan Shaw)
26. 10:53 PM - Re: SV: landings FLapperons (Cudnohufsky's)
27. 11:14 PM - Re: landings FLapperons (Michael Gibbs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | [Off-topic] Western Norway |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Michel,
Thank you. Very interesting. Jeff
> [Original Message]
> From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/6/2005 5:38:42 AM
> Subject: SV: Kitfox-List: [Off-topic] Western Norway
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> > From: Jeffrey Puls [pulsair@mindspring.com]
> > how do the peopel support themselve?
>
> I am often asking myself the same question, Jeff.
> This is definitively off-topic and, please, let me know if I abuse, but
I'd like to answer. Remember, I am originally from Belgium and Norway -
which I love - is my country of adoption.
>
> Apart from the first photo (Rjukan) that is very special, the small
villages on the west coast are living from very small scale agriculture,
fishing and state subsides.
>
> Because of the gulfstream, the west coast has a mild climate and they
have very little frost at sea level. A speciality is apple trees. Nice
Norwegian apples. But because it receives subsides from the state, and
according to a GATT agreement, they are only on the market for a short
period of time. It is to give a chance to e.g. American apples to also find
a market in our country.
>
> Healthcare and social infrastructure is extremely well built. It costs a
lot of money. But then, we pay a lot of taxes for it. This is a big
political hot potato in Norway. There is plenty of space for the 4.5
millions Norwegian to live around the Oslo fjord, where I live. The rest of
the country could be a huge national park. But then, do we want that? I am
sure Torgeir who lives up north, won't agree! :-)
> After WWII, it was NATO that pressed the Norwegian government to keep the
north populated, as to keep a front along our common border with what was
then the Soviet Union. Of course, that cost money.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Which is the Left tank? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: Harris Robert [Robert_Harris@intuit.com]
> On that point, I recently learned that Knots was derived from the number of
> knots a sailor could tie in a rope and throw overboard to determine their
> speed.
Indeed, Harris. For those who are interested in the history of navigation, there
is a fantastic book called "From Sails to Satellites" by J. E. D. Williams.
It takes you from the astrolabe to the laser gyroscope in a very detailed yet
well written prose. Order it now if you want to see it under your next Christmas
tree! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
David,
Thanks for the information. But I need a little more please.
Because I want to paint only one side of the outer door frame, and will
therefore see the paint from inside the airplane when looking out the door,
I was hoping to just put the paint on the plexiglass without using any
primer (aerothane stuff seems to stick to everything and anything when you
don't want it to). Did you use a primer? If so, was it Aerothane 2 part?
Or did you do it without?
Sorry for all the questions, but it would help me a lot to know how you did
it so I don't have to experiment on mine.
Paul Seehafer
>Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com>
> Paul, I painted a 3/4 edge around door with Aerothane. Been painted
> about 6 months and see no effects. Be sure to use a masking that is vapor
> proof and also mask the opposite side of the window. Airborne vapors can
> attack that side also.
>
> C. David Estapa
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
Paul, I am stepping in late on this topic but I successfully painted a border on
the standard issue polycarbonate with polytone (no primer) that has held up
well. I know you are using LP and Aerothane but my experience may be of help
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer"
>
> David,
>
> Thanks for the information. But I need a little more please.
>
> Because I want to paint only one side of the outer door frame, and will
> therefore see the paint from inside the airplane when looking out the door,
> I was hoping to just put the paint on the plexiglass without using any
> primer (aerothane stuff seems to stick to everything and anything when you
> don't want it to). Did you use a primer? If so, was it Aerothane 2 part?
> Or did you do it without?
>
> Sorry for all the questions, but it would help me a lot to know how you did
> it so I don't have to experiment on mine.
>
> Paul Seehafer
>
>
> >Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa
>
> > Paul, I painted a 3/4 edge around door with Aerothane. Been painted
> > about 6 months and see no effects. Be sure to use a masking that is vapor
> > proof and also mask the opposite side of the window. Airborne vapors can
> > attack that side also.
> >
> > C. David Estapa
>
>
>
>
>
>
Paul, I am stepping in late on this topic but I successfully painted a border on
the standard issuepolycarbonate with polytone (no primer) that has held up well.
I know you are using LP and Aerothane but my experience may be of help
John Kerr
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <AV8RPS@TZNET.COM>
David,
Thanks for the information. But I need a little more please.
Because I want to paint only one side of the outer door frame, and will
therefore see the paint from inside the airplane when looking out the door,
I was hoping to just put the paint on the plexiglass without using any
primer (aerothane stuff seems to stick to everything and anything when you
don't want it to). Did you use a primer? If so, was it Aerothane 2 part?
Or did you do it without?
Sorry for all the questions, but it would help me a lot to know how you did
it so I don't have to experiment on mine.
Paul Seehafer
Ki
tfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <DAVESTAPA@JUNO.COM>
Paul, I painted a 3/4 edge around door with Aerothane. Been painted
about 6 months and see no effects. Be sure to use a masking that is vapor
proof and also mask the opposite side of the window. Airborne vapors can
attack that side also.
C. David Estapa
</BLOCKQU
OTE>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or windshield - sharing |
information
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
All,
Thought I'd share with the group some of the tips I learned while installing
LP Aero Plexiglass bubble doors on my Model IV. The LP Aero plexiglass can
be expensive, so it's best to have to do it only once.
Figuring out how to cut this stuff smoothly and accurately was a real pain.
LP Aero says to use a bandsaw with at least 14 teeth per inch. But I didn't
have access to one of those, nor could I justify buying one for that reason
alone. So after trying a bunch of different things, here's what I found to
work best;
- Save yourself a lot of time and money. Make a template of your door
openings first. It's worth the time to do so.
- Start the door fitting process from the top of the door, then the front
edge, then the back edge, and last the bottom.
- Use a *grease or fabric marker pen for all marking. A white one works
well on the glass and is easy to see.
- Purchase plexiglass cutting drill bits for making the bolt holes & make
holes slightly oversize per the instructions.
- A 3 inch air powered cut-off tool works, but work it slow so it doesn't
take off too much material too fast.
- A high speed Rotary tool (aka circle cutter for drywall) works ok too, but
cuts slow and is hard to cut straight with.
- *A dremel tool with a dremel cut-off wheel run at high speed works much
better for your "initial rough cuts".
- *A dremel tool with the 5/8" abrasive drum sander attachment works
extremely well for making "final fit cuts".
- *A dremel tool with a small cutter bit is invaluable for "super fine
detail grinding".
- *A small mouse sander works very well for making your final edges smooth,
straight and edges attractive.
(*asterisk indicates my preference after trying all the various methods)
WHAT NOT TO DO;
- Do not use regular drill bits (they bite into the plexiglass too fast and
will cause cracks or break glass).
- Do not use a jigsaw or any kind of saw that has a blade that goes up and
down (guaranteed to break your glass).
- While a belt sander works very well for taking off material fast, as well
as making straight lines, you MUST have someone hold the door securely in
place while you're sanding edges. If you don't you will find your door
flying off the bench before you know it (don't ask me how I know this...).
- Do not force the door open or closed if anything is binding (this stuff is
pretty brittle and corners break easy).
- Do not remove the clinging protective (scratch proofing) plastic covering
that come on the doors until done cutting.
- These doors love to fly. Keep a good grip on them if where you are
working is windy (don't ask...).
Hopefully these hints and tips might help someone else avoid costly mistakes
like I made. When looking at various airplanes lately, I've noticed a lot
of damaged or broken bubble doors and/or windshields. It wasn't until I
installed mine that I realized most of the ones I had seen were probably
damaged during the install process. So I felt obligated to share what I had
to learn the hard way.
Paul Seehafer
Model IV 1200
Central Wisconsin
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
John,
Thanks for that information. I too have painted polytone right on bare
lexan on an earlier Avid I still own. Long term results were not so good as
it peeled years later. But I didn't scuff it or etch it first. So I
believe that was my own fault.
I guess I'm a little paranoid about doing the plexi at the cost of the
stuff. Let's see, last I looked one could spend almost $1500 on plexi
windows. (Argh!) And that's assuming you don't break any of it when
installing it, like I did.
Paul
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> Paul, I am stepping in late on this topic but I successfully painted a
> border on the standard issue polycarbonate with polytone (no primer) that
> has held up well. I know you are using LP and Aerothane but my experience
> may be of help
>
> John Kerr
Message 7
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| Subject: | Rotax 912UL Fuel System |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
Lyle
I may have missed it, but I don't think "vapor lock" has been mentioned a
possible cause of your problem. It sure sounds like vapor lock to me. Was
it a hot day and were conditions such that the temperature in the cowling
were elevated more than normal: Long time idling waiting for takeoff.
Recent flight so the engine compartment was hot? Were you using auto gas
which is apparently more prone to vapor lock. Was it old auto gas
formulated for winter?
I have encountered it a couple of times. Now that I am aware of it, I just
keep the RPM's up to get more airflow under the cowl (and more fuel flow)
when I think I'm setting up for possible vapor lock.
Vapor lock of course, is when the fuel in the fuel line gets hot enough it
flashes into vapor and causes the fuel pump to cavitate and fuel to stop
flowing. As soon as things cools down, everything goes back to normal.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lyle Persels
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912UL Fuel System
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lyle Persels <lpers@mchsi.com>
I have a standard fuel system (28 gallons plus header) and engine
installation in my 1994 Model IV/912UL with 400 hours. Last week, while
taxiing out for takeoff, the engine sputtered and stopped completely as
though it had just run out of gas. After pushing the aircraft back to
the hangar, I checked the carburetor float bowls and confirmed that the
engine had stopped because of fuel starvation. I then drained between
six and seven gallons of fuel out of the aircraft. The flow was free and
normal.
Other than fuel blockage, what should I look for?
Does the fuel pump create any vacuum at all, or must there be a positive
gravity feed to the inlet at all times?
Lyle
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
I scuffed with a 3m pad and have had no peeling in 9 years.
John
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer"
>
> John,
>
> Thanks for that information. I too have painted polytone right on bare
> lexan on an earlier Avid I still own. Long term results were not so good as
> it peeled years later. But I didn't scuff it or etch it first. So I
> believe that was my own fault.
>
> I guess I'm a little paranoid about doing the plexi at the cost of the
> stuff. Let's see, last I looked one could spend almost $1500 on plexi
> windows. (Argh!) And that's assuming you don't break any of it when
> installing it, like I did.
>
> Paul
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
> >
> > Paul, I am stepping in late on this topic but I successfully painted a
> > border on the standard issue polycarbonate with polytone (no primer) that
> > has held up well. I know you are using LP and Aerothane but my experience
> > may be of help
> >
> > John Kerr
>
>
>
>
>
>
I scuffed with a 3m pad and have had no peeling in 9 years.
John
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <AV8RPS@TZNET.COM>
John,
Thanks for that information. I too have painted polytone right on bare
lexan on an earlier Avid I still own. Long term results were not so good as
it peeled years later. But I didn't scuff it or etch it first. So I
believe that was my own fault.
I guess I'm a little paranoid about doing the plexi at the cost of the
stuff. Let's see, last I looked one could spend almost $1500 on plexi
windows. (Argh!) And that's assuming you don't break any of it when
installing it, like I did.
Paul
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
Paul, I am stepping in late on
this topic but I successfully painted a
border on the standard issue polycarbonate with polytone (no primer) that
has held up well. I know you are using LP and Aerothane but my experience
may be of help
John Kerr
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Why not just buy a piece of plexi from the local hardware and practice on
that?
My experience would tell me that it will work just fine.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: painting Lp Aero doors
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
>
> John,
>
> Thanks for that information. I too have painted polytone right on bare
> lexan on an earlier Avid I still own. Long term results were not so good
as
> it peeled years later. But I didn't scuff it or etch it first. So I
> believe that was my own fault.
>
> I guess I'm a little paranoid about doing the plexi at the cost of the
> stuff. Let's see, last I looked one could spend almost $1500 on plexi
> windows. (Argh!) And that's assuming you don't break any of it when
> installing it, like I did.
>
> Paul
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
> >
> > Paul, I am stepping in late on this topic but I successfully painted a
> > border on the standard issue polycarbonate with polytone (no primer)
that
> > has held up well. I know you are using LP and Aerothane but my
experience
> > may be of help
> >
> > John Kerr
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com
if you can't make three point full flap landings you probably have the cg
too far forward. you probably need tail weight. that would also give you added
longitudinal stability after touch down.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey" <spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
If I add any weight to the tail, it would only decrease my longitudinal
stability after touch-down, correct? I would have more weight way out there
trying to swing back in front of the mains...
Andrew
>From: AMuller589@aol.com
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: landings FLapperons
>Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 13:04:49 EDT
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com
>
>if you can't make three point full flap landings you probably have the cg
>too far forward. you probably need tail weight. that would also give you
>added
>longitudinal stability after touch down.
>
>
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Paul,
Check out this site too.............good for floats and it features the kitfox
on them.
Sid
------------------
Note: forwarded message attached.
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or |
windshield - sharing information
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> windshield -
sharing information
>My preferences:
1. Cutting: Dremel with diamond disk. It's expensive, but it lasts a long
time and cuts through plastic, carbon, and fiberglass with ease. Keep it
cool. Go slow. Go straight. To curve do a bunch of staggered straight cuts,
then sand.
2. Drilling: Buy the plastic bits from LP Aero or your local plastic
supplier. Look for 0 degree rake angle.
2. Sanding: Good old sandpaper on a sanding block. Work it down from 60 to
600 in steps. The 60 cuts plenty fast. You don't need power tools unless
you're doing the 3/8" window on the Bonanza. Use the new Norton 3X aluminum
oxide paper from Home Depot. It lasts a long time.
3. Finishing: As you've heard, polishing everything cuts down cracks and
crazing. I use the large Dremel polishing disk with 2 levels of plastic
polishing compound. I did my entire windshield in, I think, 20 minutes. It
goes fast, but don't get anything hot. For larger holes use the smallest
Dremel polishing disk you have. I think I have one that goes down to 1/4".
I don't know what to do for the little holes.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or windshield - |
sharing information
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
You might want to add one more tool to this project. I used a 3" block
plane with the blade set to cut shallow. Great for doing edge
cutting/trimming. You can also cut/shave the corners on long runs giving a
little rounded edge. A block plane will remove rough edges left by a saw
blade.
Don Smythe
Classic IV W/ 582
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan windshield - sharing information" <bnn@nethere.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or
windshield - sharing information
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
> windshield - sharing information
>
>
>>My preferences:
>
>
> 1. Cutting: Dremel with diamond disk. It's expensive, but it lasts a long
> time and cuts through plastic, carbon, and fiberglass with ease. Keep it
> cool. Go slow. Go straight. To curve do a bunch of staggered straight
> cuts,
> then sand.
>
> 2. Drilling: Buy the plastic bits from LP Aero or your local plastic
> supplier. Look for 0 degree rake angle.
>
> 2. Sanding: Good old sandpaper on a sanding block. Work it down from 60 to
> 600 in steps. The 60 cuts plenty fast. You don't need power tools unless
> you're doing the 3/8" window on the Bonanza. Use the new Norton 3X
> aluminum
> oxide paper from Home Depot. It lasts a long time.
>
> 3. Finishing: As you've heard, polishing everything cuts down cracks and
> crazing. I use the large Dremel polishing disk with 2 levels of plastic
> polishing compound. I did my entire windshield in, I think, 20 minutes. It
> goes fast, but don't get anything hot. For larger holes use the smallest
> Dremel polishing disk you have. I think I have one that goes down to 1/4".
> I don't know what to do for the little holes.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com
NO!!! It increases the inertia about the vertical axis. Your cg should be at
least in the middle.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
>
> John,
>
> Thanks for that information. I too have painted polytone right on bare
> lexan on an earlier Avid I still own. Long term results were not so good
as
> it peeled years later. But I didn't scuff it or etch it first. So I
> believe that was my own fault.
Hello Paul.
My suggestion is to look though the yellow pages and find "Sign
Manufacturing" The people who make back lit illuminated signs for store fronts,gas
stations
and the like. You see the signs all over the place!
These people spray the acrylic or polycarbonate all day. The special
transparent paint (top allow the fluorescent light though, is on the inside of
the
sign face usually and not on the exposed side to the weather.
If they have to apply paint on the outside face this is a "normal paint" they
will use a special clear primer, ours is a product called VPS1. Then they
will coat it with the color they desire, that will be durable on the outside
face..
If you are looking for something special I would suggest: 1)On the inside of
your window, clean with rubbing alcohol and water mix 50:50 only, wipe dry
with a chamois cloth. Do not use harsh solvents which will break down the lexan.
2) Spray a coat of the clear primer to the area of plexiglass.3) spray the
color. If it is a basecoat, step 4) apply a coat of clear.
So, find a sign fabricating shop, make friends, ask them for a clear primer
that they use on acrylic or polycarbonate sign faces. Who knows, they may give
you a pint. It is a single component (no hardener) product so it will last a
long time.
I work for Akzo Nobel But the car refinishing segment. We have a sign
finishes segment.
You may look at www.signfinishes.com.
Do not sand the plexiglass, if there are stress areas from heat molding,
there could be premature cracking or crazing when coatings are applied. With the
clear primer you do not need to scuff or sand it is made to stick to smooth
plexi and will not attack the plexi.
Hope this helps and you find a supportive sign company.
Cheers Eric.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey" <spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
That's what I meant - Inertia was the word I was looking for ;)
Andrew
>From: AMuller589@aol.com
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: landings FLapperons
>Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 18:04:05 EDT
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com
>
>NO!!! It increases the inertia about the vertical axis. Your cg should be
>at
>least in the middle.
>
>
Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Okay, so much for my pc skills.........thought I forwarded it.
http://www.skyshops.org/FLOATSHOME/floats%201150kitfox.htm
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
Has anyone measured their actual flapperon deflection ?
Am i the only one that has measured 4 now and all 30 degree to 33
degree on model IV's
Surely the four i have measured could be all rigged wrong like some
have claimed but I don't know.
This seems to be a critical issue as some have suggested but no input
from others ?
I measured the 4th one today and It was 30 + degrees full down
flapperons. What are yours ?
Maybe that Paul Scheefer could commment he seem to be one of the most
knowledge AVID / Kitfox guys I ahve read yet - especially when it comes
to seaplanes. I wonder is Paul would agree that Flapperons help?
Kirby .........
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or windshield - |
sharing information
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
with lexan up to .092 -- 2mil I use good tin snips to cut .
Do the straight edges with a hand plane.
could not be easier.
Kirby
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Float Avids... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rich Williamson" <rwill1@adelphia.net>
Yeah their nice but too much $$$$. Full-Lotus are a much better buy for the
USD !!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sid Hausding" <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Float Avids...
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
>
> Okay, so much for my pc skills.........thought I forwarded it.
>
> http://www.skyshops.org/FLOATSHOME/floats%201150kitfox.htm
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Tips for fitting LP Bubble doors and/or |
windshield - sharing information
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> windshield -
sharing information
At 02:37 PM 9/7/2005, you wrote:
>I used a 3" block
>plane with the blade set to cut shallow.
You know, I couldn't get my block plane to work, no matter how thin I
shaved. It's probably dull.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: painting Lp Aero doors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com>
I did use an epoxy primer (polyfiber). My doors have an aluminum strip on
the inside edge and I only painted the window the same width as the alum.
strip.
David
On Wed, 7 Sep 2005 09:30:38 -0500 "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
writes:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer"
> <av8rps@tznet.com>
>
> David,
>
> Thanks for the information. But I need a little more please.
>
> Because I want to paint only one side of the outer door frame, and
> will
> therefore see the paint from inside the airplane when looking out
> the door,
> I was hoping to just put the paint on the plexiglass without using
> any
> primer (aerothane stuff seems to stick to everything and anything
> when you
> don't want it to). Did you use a primer? If so, was it Aerothane 2
> part?
> Or did you do it without?
>
> Sorry for all the questions, but it would help me a lot to know how
> you did
> it so I don't have to experiment on mine.
>
> Paul Seehafer
>
>
> >Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com>
>
> > Paul, I painted a 3/4 edge around door with Aerothane. Been
> painted
> > about 6 months and see no effects. Be sure to use a masking that
> is vapor
> > proof and also mask the opposite side of the window. Airborne
> vapors can
> > attack that side also.
> >
> > C. David Estapa
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
Gents,
I know we have discussed before, but, my grove gear tires are tipped in 9
degrees top to bottom each side, anyone ever try taking some out besides
sending back to factory? I would like to reduce to 2 degrees simply for my
preference. Anyone ever polish their gear? And last I am looking for a
horizontal stabelizer for a 5.
Lloyd
Message 25
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| Subject: | Crossing the Pacific |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
At 03:20 PM 9/5/2005, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
<janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
>Should come see New Zealand some time too
Now THAT I plan to do. Do you think I could be the first to cross the
Pacific in a Kitfox? (I know, not with a 582!)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
I totally agree that crossing the Pacific in a Kitfox would be a huge
challenge BUT why not with a 582. I love twostrokes !
Rex Shaw
Australia
Classic IV/582
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
Gents,
On the flap discussion, I do not remember what my max deflection was but I
also set up the flaps according to the build manual. I also remember reading
somewhere in the literature not to land with more than 50% flap deflection
or you could run out of elevator for final flair.
Lloyd
----- Original Message -----
From: <kitfox@gto.net>
Subject: Re: SV: Kitfox-List: landings FLapperons
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfox@gto.net
>
> Andrew, I can see you point on landings as on wheels i rarely use
> flaps.
> Flying with Amphibs you want to lower your touchdown speed and take as
> much load of the wheel gear as possible. hence 15 to 20 degree flaps
> .
> As well landing on water --lower speed will give you less shock
> throughout your floats and airframe with rougher water.
>
> On take off you outta try flaps, if you cannot get off quicker
> something is not right.
>
>
> Hope this helps you ,
>
> Kirby ..........
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey"
> <spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
>>
>> I found I have much less pitch authority while using flaps, and
> cannot
>> therefore make a decent three-point landing...I never land with them
>
>> anymore, and found that I can approach just about stall speed,
> babying the
>> throttle, touchdown tailwheel an instant before the mains, and be
> stopped in
>> 100 feet. I can't imagine the flaps doing anything better, especially
> since
>> they do not increase drag very much...!
>>
>> Andrew
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: landings FLapperons |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
>Maybe you could point me to where is states the maximun flap
>defletion angle that you say is in your manual.
I'm sorry Kirby, I had a bad fall the other day and found out today
that I fractured my wrist. I won't be able to get out to the shop
any time soon.
My 'fox was a Model IV-1200 so it could be that the later manuals
specified something yours does not. I don't understand how there
could be that much difference in the max flap settings of our two
planes if we both believe that they were done per the manual. My
recollection is that the book was very precise in the measurements
for each linkage and with the process for rigging the mixer assembly.
Mike G.
N728KF
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