Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:43 AM - Re: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3 (Fox5flyer)
2. 09:14 AM - Re: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3 (Michael Gibbs)
3. 09:35 AM - Re: Rotax 582 oil injection resevoir needed (Gill Levesque)
4. 07:11 PM - Manifold ? (RAY Gignac)
5. 09:05 PM - Re: Rotax 582 oil injection resevoir needed (Guy Buchanan)
6. 09:39 PM - Re: Manifold ? (James Shumaker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I think that with an electric prop you will easily cruise in the low to mid
80s, maybe even more with a clean and light airplane. With a 582 the thing
to watch is the EGTs and pitch accordingly. I don't run a 582 anymore, but
when I did I always ran them right at around 1200 for clean and efficient
burn. Plug color was my primary indicator of how things were going. I'd be
careful of getting the rpms too low, especially with high power settings as
this may lead to detonation. Again, careful EGT watching should minimize
that. Others who are using the electric prop with a 582 could give you
better real time information. Mine is all just from memory as that was a
long time ago and I'm flying a 4 stroke now with electric prop. Overall
I'll just say that any airplane I build in the future, the prop will always
be some sort of cockpit adjustable unit. Well worth the extra money.
I don't know if a manifold pressure gauge will work with a 2 stroker, but if
it will it would be a good instrument for making power settings.
Good luck.
Deke
> Deke, I usually (almost always, actually) cruise my 582 at 5200 - I get
low
> fuel burn and decent airspeed (63ish). I even flew all the 11 hrs to
> Virginia at 5200! But let's say I were to cruies at 6300 tomorrow - and I
> get 80 mph...IF were to have an in-flight prop, and I set the throttle at
> 6300, then dialed in the pitch to bring it down to 5200 or so, would I see
> that SAME 80 mph? Because all I'm doing is slowing down the
motor...nothing
> more, correct?!
>
> Andrew
>
>
> >From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3
> >Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:12:05 -0400
> >
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
<morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >
> >You can add considerably more pitch than that. The 582 will do nicely at
> >5800 rpm.
> >Deke
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Andrew Matthaey" <spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
> >To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Andrew Matthaey"
> ><spaghettiohead@hotmail.com>
> > >
> > > So the trick is to throttle back a little bit after leveling-out and
> >then
> > > increasing pitch? So really, I know exactly how much airspeed I'll
gain
> >-
> > > all I have to do is cruise around at 6300 or so, because that is what
my
> > > airspeed will be after I dial in the pitch when I get the prop? Am I
> > > correct, or way off LoL!
> > > Thanks...
> > > Andrew
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> > > >Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > > >To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > > >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3
> > > >Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:55:11 +0200
> > > >
> > > >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
<michel@online.no>
> > > >
> > > >Andrew Matthaey wrote:
> > > > > Keep the throttle wide-open and increase the pitch to bring engine
> >speed
> > > > > down to 5500
> > > >
> > > >I don't know for sure Andrew, but I have asked myself the same
question
> >a
> > > >while
> > > >ago and I think that it works like this: If you have WOT, you carb
> >needle
> > > >will
> > > >be full up, giving all the fuel it can, but at 5,500 RPM, the engine
> >won't
> > > >suck
> > > >so much air and you will run on a rich mixture.
> > > >
> > > >BTW, before the Jabiru I had on my model 3 the same engine and
> > > >configuration as
> > > >you and saw about the same performance. Cruising along at 70 MPH? Why
> >not?
> > > >Who's in a hurry to land? :-)
> > > >
> > > >Cheers,
> > > >Michel
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: GSC GTA In-Flight on my Series 3 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Andrew sez:
>But let's say I were to cruies at 6300 tomorrow - and I get 80
>mph...IF were to have an in-flight prop, and I set the throttle at
>6300, then dialed in the pitch to bring it down to 5200 or so, would
>I see that SAME 80 mph?
Unfortunately, it's not that simple, Andrew. You mentioned that you
have a complex sign-off, so I'm assuming you are familiar with
constant-speed props. The main difference between using an in-flight
adjustable and a constant speed is that you manually change prop
pitch rather than rely on a governor to change it.
With a constant speed prop, for example, on takeoff you'd advance the
prop control all the way forward and then apply takeoff power with
the throttle. The governor would ensure that you were turning
red-line RPM. With an adjustable pitch prop you'd flatten the pitch,
apply full throttle and then you might have to adjust the prop some
more if you exceed red-line or fall short of it.
Leveling off for cruise, with the constant speed you'd pull the
throttle back to the recommended cruise manifold pressure then pull
the prop back to the desired cruise RPM. With the adjustable prop
you can do the same thing if you have a manifold pressure gauge,
otherwise you could retard the throttle to a particular RPM and then
bring in the pitch until you achieve your cruise power RPM.
In either case, though, there are many combinations of RPM and
manifold pressure that result in the same power setting. As you
reduce RPM you have to increase manifold pressure to maintain the
same power output. If you reduce RPM from 6300 to 5200 your speed
would drop off unless you opened the throttle some more.
Ultimately, you'll have to experiment some to find the optimum
combination of manifold pressure and RPM for the cruise performance
you want.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 oil injection resevoir needed |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Guy,
How about contacting me off-list with a price! including postage!! I am in Ontario
Canada (20 miles from Buffalo, NY)!
Thanx
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
The Nalgene is an 80 x 150 x 200 mm (3.25 x 6 x 8") polyethylene
rectangular cube bottle with a 50 mm (2") opening. The screw cap is clear
and says "Nalgene" on it. My frame is custom.
At 09:11 AM 9/26/2005, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque
>
>Guy,
>
> Don't know what a NAGLEEN is but it does hold 2 litres and is the
> original DENNY supplied kit part!! It sits in a hinged frame on the
> firewall!! What are the dimensions???
>Let me know!!
>Thanx
> Gil
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
---------------------------------
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
I attempted to do the valve spring upgrade to my 912S today and discovered that
I will have to remove the manifolds in order to use the valve spring tool! do
I need to buy any new seals or O-rings after removing the manifold? HELP!!
Ray Gignac
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 oil injection resevoir needed |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Hi Gil,
I'm back to you on-line because I thought others might like to
know the source:
www.usplastic.com
Part
# Description
Price
71154 64oz/2000ml Nalgene=AE Clear Rectangular Bottles 63mm
Cap1 $12.56
16657 1/4" FNPT Polypropylene Loose Tank Fitting w/Viton=AE
Gaskets $8.59
Part 16657 is a screw together fitting with heavy gaskets that you install
in the bottom of the tank. (Skystar no longer has the capability to weld
fittings into the bottoms of the tanks.) You first drill a hole in the
bottom of the tank to accept the fitting. (I think it's about 1" to 1 1/4"
diameter.) Then you de-burr the hole. Butter the male part with Permatex #2
(lots) and fit it through the spout and into the drilled hole. (Not too
tricky.) Then heavily butter the outside and screw on the gasket and screw
fitting. The trick is holding the inside fitting while you snug the
outside. It wants to be snug, but it's a plastic fitting; so you can't
really crank on it. You're really relying on the Viton gaskets and the
Permatex. Clean as much of the Permatex as you can off the fitting inside
and out. (Tricky again, unless you have very small hands.)
Finally grind a notch in the lip of the opening and in the threads for a
vent. Make sure the notch is on the high side. If you want you can install
a level gauge by either buying another pipe fitting, as above, or simply
threading the side-wall. It's pretty thick. (Probably 4mm, at least.)
Good luck!
At 09:34 AM 9/28/2005, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
>
>Guy,
> How about contacting me off-list with a price! including postage!! I am
> in Ontario Canada (20 miles from Buffalo, NY)!
> Thanx
> Gil Levesque
> C-IGVL
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Ray,
I'm surprized that you have to remove the intake manifolds. My valve spring tool
does not need to remove the manifolds.
If you do remove them, you may have to install a new O-ring on the water socket.
I have removed the manifolds a couple times and had to replace one O-ring.
They have a very slow leak if they fail.
The valve cover O-rings have not leaked in 12 years and 3 removals.
Jim Shumaker
RAY Gignac <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac"
I attempted to do the valve spring upgrade to my 912S today and discovered that
I will have to remove the manifolds in order to use the valve spring tool! do
I need to buy any new seals or O-rings after removing the manifold? HELP!!
Ray Gignac
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