Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:19 AM - Re: Clevis movement (Chenoweth)
2. 05:50 AM - Re: UHS Spinner (Ceashman@aol.com)
3. 06:10 AM - Re: UHS Spinner (Aerobatics@aol.com)
4. 09:01 AM - Re: Wing support while trailering (Mdkitfox@aol.com)
5. 11:30 AM - Re: UHS Spinner (Guy Buchanan)
6. 11:53 AM - My kitfox 3 for sale (daniel johnson)
7. 04:29 PM - KF II Motor Mount on ebay (David Savener)
8. 04:47 PM - Toe in again (Guy Buchanan)
9. 04:52 PM - Re: Re: Clevis movement (flier)
10. 08:07 PM - Re: Toe in again (kirk hull)
11. 09:14 PM - Re: KF II Motor Mount on ebay (Aerobatics@AOL.COM)
12. 09:31 PM - Re: Toe in again (Bruce Harrington)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Clevis movement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
Thanks to all of you who responded to my question. It amazes me sometimes
how tunnel versioned I get (It comes with a clevis pin - it has to stay a
clevis pin). Anyway since I fold the wings only once a year (condition
inspection) I'll be ordering two bolts with castle nuts tomorrow.
Again, thanks.
Bill
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Clevis movement
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe@cox.net>
>
> Loyd,
> Good question. I opted to do the same but I use castle nuts w/ cotter
> pins on the front. I don't torque them down to any specific torque but
> rather run them down and just add a little more. I don't want to squeeze
> too much. Any pro's to this procedure would be appreciated.
>
> Don Smythe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Clevis movement
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
> >
> > Bill,
> > Never had the problem but also never liked the idea of the clevised pin
> > either. I opted to use a threaded bolt with Nylock in the front the same
> > as
> > the rear, I liked the idea of keeping everything drawn tight, but I also
> > never checked with Skystar to see if there was any flaws in my thinking.
> > Anyone else?
> > Lloyd
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Kitfox-List: Clevis movement
> >
> >
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
> >>
> >> Here's a situation I discovered the other day and I wonder if anyone on
> >> the list has experienced something similar.
> >>
> >> The clevis pin that attaches the right front spar to the carry thru
wants
> >> to work its way up. This may have been going on forever but I just
> >> noticed that the safety pin was up solidly against the spar about 11
> >> flight hours ago and pounded the clevis pin fully down. The clevis pin
> >> is
> >> now about halfway back up. There is obviously motion somewhere.
> >>
> >> There is no obvious looseness in the joint. The left wing doesn't
> >> manifest this tendency at all. I have a 13 gallon tank on the right
and
> >> fly with it from full to 1/2 full all the time. I don't put any gas in
> >> my
> >> left tank and have shutoffs to keep the tanks from cross feeding. In
> >> other words the right wing weighs 50 pounds or so more than the left.
> >>
> >> Other than to note that the safety pins are in there for a reason I
have
> >> no idea if this is a common event or if my plane is unique. Nor do I
> >> know
> >> if it is a symptom of something bad.
> >>
> >> So if any one has this happening I'd surely like to know and what, if
> >> anything, was done to correct it.
> >>
> >> Thanks very much.
> >> Bill in Maine
> >> IV-1200 (582) with 160 hours
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
>The UHS folks sent fender and flat washers to be stacked over the holes.
>Hopefully that will prove to be enough,
I thought there had to be a thick aluminum plate between the prop bolts heads
and the prop hub.
This could be reference with only the Warp Drive ground adjustable prop, I
don't know?
And together with the smaller nuts and bolts (4 per blade) all of this
sandwiched the two hub halves and secured the adjusted blades.
Right now, I cant remember if the thick aluminum plate came with the prop or
the spinner assembly!
Best of luck with the new components. Eric.
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
In a message dated 10/16/2005 7:52:27 AM Central Daylight Time, Ceashm
an@aol.com writes:
>The UHS folks sent fender and flat washers to be stacked over the holes.
>Hopefully that will prove to be enough,
I thought there had to be a thick aluminum plate between the prop bolts
heads
and the prop hub.
This could be reference with only the Warp Drive ground adjustable prop, I
don't know?
And together with the smaller nuts and bolts (4 per blade) all of this
sandwiched the two hub halves and secured the adjusted blades.
Right now, I cant remember if the thick aluminum plate came with the prop or
the spinner assembly!
Best of luck with the new components. Eric.
Been solong since I installed mine dont remember......
but, I follwed thier directions and it has been perfect...:-)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wing support while trailering |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mdkitfox@aol.com
Deke,
That explanation helped. Parts are in hand.
Thanks,
Rick Weiss
Series V, N39RW
Do Not Archive
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:49 AM 10/16/2005, you wrote:
>I thought there had to be a thick aluminum plate between the prop bolts heads
>and the prop hub.
I'm pretty sure this is only for wood props. The HP Warp Drive hub is a
solid mass of aluminum so I don't think an additional aluminum plate's
going to do much.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 6
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| Subject: | My kitfox 3 for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "daniel johnson" <kitfox91je@hotmail.com>
Hi all...i've put my kitfox 3 on barnstormers.com for sale. A full ad is
there if you know anyone interested. I've also been asked about selling
trailors and floats seperate...all of that is negotiable. I'll probably
list it on ebay as well.
Thanks, Dan Johnson in Columbus Ohio.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 7
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| Subject: | KF II Motor Mount on ebay |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David Savener" <david_savener@msn.com>
To anyone interested.
I have listed a NEW 582 Motor Mount on Ebay. I planned to update my old mount
when I changed from a 532 to a 582 but decided to reuse the old one since I didn't
want to retrofit my cowling to the new type.
It closes in about two days.
David_savener@msn.com<mailto:David_savener@msn.com>
Do not archive
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
As I'm nearing final completion, (one wing on today before the rain hit,)
I'm measuring various items. Today it was toe-in. As the previous builder
had built new, stronger, tube gear I assumed, wrongly, that he would put it
together straight. Unfortunately, it appears I've got about 3/4 degree
toe-in per wheel when level and about 1.5 degree toe-in per wheel when on
the tail wheel. He built the wheels cambered in about 5 degrees, so the
toe-in goes from negative to positive as the tube gear pivots. I'd guess
it's 0 at about max deflection. I guess I'll learn more during taxi and
early flight tests.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Clevis movement |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Why bolts?
Long before the tension & compression forces on the wings (that put shear on
the fore & aft pins/bolts) would ever cause failure of either the clevis
pins in the front, the bolts in the rear, or failure of the spar attach
points for that matter, you'll find those little threaded AN fittings
rosette welded into the lift struts ends will fail from the flight loads.
If the wings were being slung like rotors I guess there might be a concern.
However, the weak point in the kitfox wings are the upper lift strut attach
points.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Clevis movement
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 02:24 PM 10/15/2005, you wrote:
>I replaced the pins with AN45-32 eyebolts, castellated nuts and cotters. I
>can then use the eyebolts as lifting eyes when changing from wheels to
>floats and back.
This is a great idea. I personally think the spar holes should be captured
with bolts. Otherwise there's no requirement that they stay in contact with
the associated fuselage frame tube. With a clevis, the spar reinforcements
can splay up and down, bending the clevis pin and ultimately failing. (I
know, it's never happened.) Capturing the spars keeps them round and the
attachment bolts in (almost) pure shear.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kirk hull" <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
As I am finishing my molel IV I have the same probles with the factory gear.
Dont remember the exact #s but I wonder if this is normal? Any one Know?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
Subject: Kitfox-List: Toe in again
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
As I'm nearing final completion, (one wing on today before the rain hit,)
I'm measuring various items. Today it was toe-in. As the previous builder
had built new, stronger, tube gear I assumed, wrongly, that he would put it
together straight. Unfortunately, it appears I've got about 3/4 degree
toe-in per wheel when level and about 1.5 degree toe-in per wheel when on
the tail wheel. He built the wheels cambered in about 5 degrees, so the
toe-in goes from negative to positive as the tube gear pivots. I'd guess
it's 0 at about max deflection. I guess I'll learn more during taxi and
early flight tests.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: KF II Motor Mount on ebay |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
curious what is the difference...?
I have a KF2 .... had an 532 original box and installed a 582 BH "E" box,
took some doing but engine mount was the same....
Thanks
Dave
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Toe in again |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <sonex321@msn.com>
Hi Guy,
On hard surface runways (blacktop, concrete), you and your Kitfox will
probably do a lot of "dancing", unless the two toe-ins are near perfect. I
had one near 0, the other toed in a bit, and it sure did "dance" on landing.
Takeoffs were ok.
Cheers,
bh
> As I'm nearing final completion, (one wing on today before the rain hit,)
> I'm measuring various items. Today it was toe-in. As the previous builder
> had built new, stronger, tube gear I assumed, wrongly, that he would put
> it
> together straight. Unfortunately, it appears I've got about 3/4 degree
> toe-in per wheel when level and about 1.5 degree toe-in per wheel when on
> the tail wheel. He built the wheels cambered in about 5 degrees, so the
> toe-in goes from negative to positive as the tube gear pivots. I'd guess
> it's 0 at about max deflection. I guess I'll learn more during taxi and
> early flight tests.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
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