Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:22 AM - Re: Re: Trim (John Anderson)
2. 04:24 AM - Altering early wing section (Gordon Faulkner)
3. 05:48 AM - Re: Re: Trim (W Duke)
4. 06:24 AM - SV: Altering early wing section (Michel Verheughe)
5. 07:04 AM - Re: SV: Altering early wing section (Aerobatics@AOL.COM)
6. 07:05 AM - Re: Altering early wing section (skyflyte@comcast.net)
7. 07:40 AM - S-5 Rudder Pedal Reinforcements (Tinne maha)
8. 07:49 AM - Re: S-5 Rudder Pedal Reinforcements (jdmcbean)
9. 09:40 AM - Re: Altering early wing section (Gordon Faulkner)
10. 10:00 AM - Short field. WAS: Altering early wing section (Michel Verheughe)
11. 10:10 AM - Prop blade pitch (John Disher)
12. 10:18 AM - list (LGreen4899@aol.com)
13. 10:33 AM - Re: Prop blade pitch (Clifford Begnaud)
14. 11:20 AM - Re: list (Fox5flyer)
15. 12:31 PM - Re: Short field. WAS: Altering early wing section (Aerobatics@aol.com)
16. 01:16 PM - Re: Short field (Michel Verheughe)
17. 01:41 PM - Re: Short field (Aerobatics@AOL.COM)
18. 01:56 PM - Re: Short field (kitfoxjunky)
19. 02:37 PM - Re: Short field (daniel johnson)
20. 03:17 PM - Re: Short field (RAY Gignac)
21. 05:07 PM - Re: Altering early wing section (Jerry Liles)
22. 06:19 PM - glass streaks and scratches (jareds)
23. 06:43 PM - Re: glass streaks and scratches (Randy Daughenbaugh)
24. 08:27 PM - Re: glass streaks and scratches (ron schick)
25. 08:56 PM - Storage issues (Graeme Toft)
26. 09:17 PM - Re: glass streaks and scratches (jareds)
27. 09:17 PM - Re: Storage issues (Don Pearsall)
28. 09:29 PM - Re: glass streaks and scratches (ron schick)
29. 09:40 PM - Re: Storage issues (Rick)
30. 10:19 PM - Cockpit Fumes (Guy Buchanan)
31. 10:19 PM - Registration (Guy Buchanan)
32. 11:31 PM - Engine Mounts (Thomas White)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1069446885,
works great indeed! JohnA.
From: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Trim
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
You really can not put the trim markings on until you fly. Just use a
marker and put a line on the metal strip just for reference were you
think is about right. You will be holding on to the stick so tight the
first flight that you will have no idea if the trim is right or not.
Then when you fly you can see were it really is and remark. When you are
happy with that then put your sicker on. Close is good enough for test
flying as the stick pressures are not that high even if you are way out
of trim, like full up when you forget to reset before takeoff. You will
find that the plane does not use much trim except for landing. I use one
notch flaps for takeoff and taking the flap off goes to close to cruse
climb. Little bumps to the switch will tune it up. It is a bugger
getting that sticker on without taking the indicator out, which is why I
have colored tape to indicate the takeoff zone on one of my planes. Too
many thumbs to install it right
Alan
Kerry Skyring wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kerry Skyring"
<kerryskyring@hotmail.com>
>
>George wrote..
>I have a Mod 5 with a 912S and recently installed a dual Amp & Volt
meter...
>
>George I can't answer your question but as you are an S5 with 912S flyer
>then I'd like to put a couple of questions. We are about to receive the
>flight permit for an S5 with 912S and as the day draws closer questions
>arise.
>
>Any problems with the trim? Our inspector thought the trim indicator was
all
>wrong and we've just spent a day completely re-doing everything to do with
>the trim (according to the manual) and ended up back where we were in the
>first place.
>
>Did all your rigging come out right? Our down elevator is one or two
degrees
>less than it should be.
>
>What's your cruise speed? We have fixed pitch prop, Grove gear and big
>tyres.
>
>And are you pleased with your S5?
>
>Sorry about the questions and lack of answers but you probably know how it
>is as the day approaches - the head scratching and worrying intensifies.
>Kerry
>Kitfox builders helper
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner" <hagar@othertonair.freeserve.co.uk>
Dear Foxfolk,
Is there a consensus view regarding the benefits (or otherwise) of infilling
the underside of the early wing ribs?
I've been told that the cruise performance of my Mk3 will be improved by
altering the standard wing section to the one introduced on the Mk4. Since
I'm soon to start making my wings this would be the time to make the change
but I'd feel happier about the decision after hearing a few more opinions.
Is there anyone on list who's actually made this particular modification?
Much of my flying will be from short grass airstrips, my home airfield has
300 yards available.
Gordon Faulkner
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
FWIW. On a somewhat related note someone suggested to me on the intial test flight,
err on the side of too much down trim. That way you do not have an unexpected
and too early lift off proceeding rapidly to a dangerously nose high attitude.
Maxwell
Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels
You really can not put the trim markings on until you fly. Just use a
marker and put a line on the metal strip just for reference were you
think is about right. You will be holding on to the stick so tight the
first flight that you will have no idea if the trim is right or not.
Then when you fly you can see were it really is and remark. When you are
happy with that then put your sicker on. Close is good enough for test
flying as the stick pressures are not that high even if you are way out
of trim, like full up when you forget to reset before takeoff. You will
find that the plane does not use much trim except for landing. I use one
notch flaps for takeoff and taking the flap off goes to close to cruse
climb. Little bumps to the switch will tune it up. It is a bugger
getting that sticker on without taking the indicator out, which is why I
have colored tape to indicate the takeoff zone on one of my planes. Too
many thumbs to install it right
Alan
Kerry Skyring wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kerry Skyring"
>
>George wrote..
>I have a Mod 5 with a 912S and recently installed a dual Amp & Volt meter...
>
>George I can't answer your question but as you are an S5 with 912S flyer
>then I'd like to put a couple of questions. We are about to receive the
>flight permit for an S5 with 912S and as the day draws closer questions
>arise.
>
>Any problems with the trim? Our inspector thought the trim indicator was all
>wrong and we've just spent a day completely re-doing everything to do with
>the trim (according to the manual) and ended up back where we were in the
>first place.
>
>Did all your rigging come out right? Our down elevator is one or two degrees
>less than it should be.
>
>What's your cruise speed? We have fixed pitch prop, Grove gear and big
>tyres.
>
>And are you pleased with your S5?
>
>Sorry about the questions and lack of answers but you probably know how it
>is as the day approaches - the head scratching and worrying intensifies.
>Kerry
>Kitfox builders helper
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> From: Gordon Faulkner [hagar@othertonair.freeserve.co.uk]
> I've been told that the cruise performance of my Mk3 will be improved by
> altering the standard wing section to the one introduced on the Mk4.
Hello Gordon,
I also have a Mk3 with the undercambered wings. But I wouldn't try to change it,
even if it may increase a bit my cruise speed. I know very little about airfoils
but I think that what you will gain in cruise speed, you will loose as lift
at slow speed. And, on a warm sunny day, with a chubby passenger, no wind,
wet and long grass ... 300 yards is not all that much of a distance to take off,
is it?
Just my twopence, old chap!
Cheers,
Michel
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
In a message dated 10/24/2005 8:25:09 AM Central Daylight Time,
michel@online.no writes:
> From: Gordon Faulkner [hagar@othertonair.freeserve.co.uk]
> I've been told that the cruise performance of my Mk3 will be improved by
> altering the standard wing section to the one introduced on the Mk4.
Hello Gordon,
I also have a Mk3 with the undercambered wings. But I wouldn't try to change
it, even if it may increase a bit my cruise speed. I know very little about
airfoils but I think that what you will gain in cruise speed, you will loose
as lift at slow speed. And, on a warm sunny day, with a chubby passenger, no
wind, wet and long grass ... 300 yards is not all that much of a distance to
take off, is it?
Just my twopence, old chap!
Cheers,
Michel
I have a Model 2.....my EW strip is less that 800 feet and the NS is 400.
Yes, I fly in and out at gross weight all the time...
KF2 582 IVO prop
Dave
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: skyflyte@comcast.net
I doubt that you will see much benefit in altering the airfoil. Much of the faster
crusing speed of a Model 4 comes from the more streamlined windshield/cowling,
the leading edge cuff, and the symetrical flapperons. The center of lift
would probably also change, which will change the desired location of the center
of gravity. I have a model II, and share a hangar with a model 3.5; we call
it a 3.5 because it is a model 3 fuselage and model 4 wings & flapperons and
it is about 10 mph faster (same engine & prop). I investigated changing my
wing to a model 4, and it required new wings, new flapperons, new windshield,
new cowling, new lift struts, and rewelding the wing attach points! That's almost
like building a whole new airplane!
Mike
Do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner"
>
>
> Dear Foxfolk,
> Is there a consensus view regarding the benefits (or otherwise) of infilling
> the underside of the early wing ribs?
I doubt that you will see much benefit in altering the airfoil. Much of the faster
crusing speed of a Model 4 comes from the more streamlined windshield/cowling,
the leading edge cuff, and the symetrical flapperons. The center of lift
would probably also change, which will change the desired location of the center
of gravity. I have a model II, and share a hangar with a model 3.5; we call
it a 3.5 because it is a model 3 fuselage and model 4 wings flapperons and it
is about 10 mph faster (same engine prop). I investigated changing my wing
to a model 4, and it required new wings, new flapperons, new windshield, new cowling,
new lift struts, and rewelding the wing attach points! That's almost like
building a whole new airplane!
Mike
Do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner"
<HAGAR@OTHERTONAIR.FREESERVE.CO.UK>
Dear Foxfolk,
Is there a consensus view regarding the benefits (or otherwise) of infilling
the underside of the early wing ribs?
Message 7
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| Subject: | S-5 Rudder Pedal Reinforcements |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Has anyone tried installing rudder pedal reinforcing gussets after the
rudder pedals were assembled? What is the best way to do so?
I can remove the pedals from the fuselage okay, but would rather not remove
the rivets holding them onto the torque tubes if I can avoid it.
It seems to me that the plastic bushings over the torque tubes would melt by
the heat of welding. Riveting doesn't seem strong enough & one must drill
into structure to rivet.
Any tales of experience will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
S-5 TD w/O-235
Message 8
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| Subject: | S-5 Rudder Pedal Reinforcements |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
I have a casted kit for this. Give me a shout off-line...
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tinne maha
Subject: Kitfox-List: S-5 Rudder Pedal Reinforcements
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Has anyone tried installing rudder pedal reinforcing gussets after the
rudder pedals were assembled? What is the best way to do so?
I can remove the pedals from the fuselage okay, but would rather not remove
the rivets holding them onto the torque tubes if I can avoid it.
It seems to me that the plastic bushings over the torque tubes would melt by
the heat of welding. Riveting doesn't seem strong enough & one must drill
into structure to rivet.
Any tales of experience will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
S-5 TD w/O-235
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner" <hagar@othertonair.freeserve.co.uk>
Thanks for the feedback guys, just like to say what a really helpful group
this is. Due to info received I've decided to stick with the standard
section ribs. Thanks again.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: <skyflyte@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Altering early wing section
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: skyflyte@comcast.net
>
> I doubt that you will see much benefit in altering the airfoil. Much of
> the faster crusing speed of a Model 4 comes from the more streamlined
> windshield/cowling, the leading edge cuff, and the symetrical flapperons.
> The center of lift would probably also change, which will change the
> desired location of the center of gravity. I have a model II, and share a
> hangar with a model 3.5; we call it a 3.5 because it is a model 3 fuselage
> and model 4 wings & flapperons and it is about 10 mph faster (same engine
> & prop). I investigated changing my wing to a model 4, and it required
> new wings, new flapperons, new windshield, new cowling, new lift struts,
> and rewelding the wing attach points! That's almost like building a whole
> new airplane!
> Mike
> Do not archive
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner"
>>
>>
>> Dear Foxfolk,
>> Is there a consensus view regarding the benefits (or otherwise) of
>> infilling
>> the underside of the early wing ribs?
>
> I doubt that you will see much benefit in altering the airfoil. Much of
> the faster crusing speed of a Model 4 comes from the more streamlined
> windshield/cowling, the leading edge cuff, and the symetrical flapperons.
> The center of lift would probably also change, which will change the
> desired location of the center of gravity. I have a model II, and share a
> hangar with a model 3.5; we call it a 3.5 because it is a model 3 fuselage
> and model 4 wings flapperons and it is about 10 mph faster (same engine
> prop). I investigated changing my wing to a model 4, and it required new
> wings, new flapperons, new windshield, new cowling, new lift struts, and
> rewelding the wing attach points! That's almost like building a whole new
> airplane!
> Mike
> Do not archive
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner"
> <HAGAR@OTHERTONAIR.FREESERVE.CO.UK>
>
> Dear Foxfolk,
> Is there a consensus view regarding the benefits (or otherwise) of
> infilling
> the underside of the early wing ribs?
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Short field. WAS: Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Aerobatics@aol.com wrote:
> I have a Model 2.....my EW strip is less that 800 feet and the NS is 400.
> Yes, I fly in and out at gross weight all the time...
Then you are a better pilot than I am, Dave. But it should't be too difficult.
:-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Prop blade pitch |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Disher" <jdisher@intergate.com>
I have a Kitfox IV Speedster with a Rotax 912, which originally had a Ivo in flight
adjustable prop. I fanially got tired of replacing the broken adjustment
mechanism and puttin up with the harmonics of all blade not (apparently) being
set to the same pitch. replaced it with a 3 blade Warp drive Prop, but am having
trouble with where to set the pitch. The first suggestion I got had me at
17 degrees and the engine won't wind up all the way in a staic runnup. HELP>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: LGreen4899@aol.com
I just sold my kitfox How do I get off the list L , Green
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Prop blade pitch |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Try going down to about 12 degress, then just fine tune it. It will take
lots of trial and error to get it set just right and you won't really know
until you fly it at different settings. I would suggest using a digital
level or laser to really get your blades set exactly the same. Be sure to
have each blade rotated to exactly the same position as the first one to
take your measurements. I used a piece of wood cut to a lenght that would
allow it to stand up on the floor and touch the bottom of the blade tip when
the blade was parallel to the floor.
Also, on the warp drive you need to check for blade alignment in addition to
pitch. Just put a stationary object on the floor and rotate the blades
around and make sure the tip of each blade passes the same distance to the
object, no more than 1/8" difference. Use shims behind the hub to adjust
alignment.
Once you get the pitch set where you like it, put index marks on the blade
root and hub. You can set up different settings for bush work or for cruise.
The marks will get you very close when changing from one setting to another.
Good luck,
Cliff
>
> I have a Kitfox IV Speedster with a Rotax 912, which originally had a Ivo
> in flight adjustable prop. I fanially got tired of replacing the broken
> adjustment mechanism and puttin up with the harmonics of all blade not
> (apparently) being set to the same pitch. replaced it with a 3 blade Warp
> drive Prop, but am having trouble with where to set the pitch. The first
> suggestion I got had me at 17 degrees and the engine won't wind up all the
> way in a staic runnup. HELP>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
All taken care of L.
Have a great day.
Deke
List Janitor
----- Original Message -----
From: <LGreen4899@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: list
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: LGreen4899@aol.com
>
> I just sold my kitfox How do I get off the list L , Green
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Short field. WAS: Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
In a message dated 10/24/2005 12:01:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
michel@online.no writes:
Aerobatics@aol.com wrote:
> I have a Model 2.....my EW strip is less that 800 feet and the NS is 400.
> Yes, I fly in and out at gross weight all the time...
Then you are a better pilot than I am, Dave. But it should't be too
difficult. :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
NO No I didnt mean to offend...... :-) Its the plane ... Its about
proper numbrs etc.
at gross weight, it stalls around 38 mph... Base I am at 50 final I start
slowing down so at short final 45, then over the threashold at 40 and 1 to 3
altitude..... gives a bit of speed for flare. 3 point full stall, is the
only way for real short landings...:-)
It does take a bit of practice, but it just goes to show...if I can do it
anybody can!
Dave
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Aerobatics@aol.com wrote:
> NO No I didnt mean to offend...... :-) Its the plane ... Its about
> proper numbrs etc.
No offence taken, my friend. If I am not good at short field it's because I fly
from a 2,400 ft asphalt runway and that's plenty of space. I don't have to
worry if I float after flaring, I have plenty of space. But the few times I
have been taking off from a short gras field, on a hot day and with a
passenger, I was surprised how short the runway was. It felt very short but as
Einstein once said, it's all relative! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Aerobatics@aol.com
In a message dated 10/24/2005 3:17:41 PM Central Daylight Time,
michel@online.no writes:
No offence taken, my friend. If I am not good at short field it's because I
fly
from a 2,400 ft asphalt runway and that's plenty of space. I don't have to
worry if I float after flaring, I have plenty of space. But the few times I
have been taking off from a short gras field, on a hot day and with a
passenger, I was surprised how short the runway was. It felt very short but
as
Einstein once said, it's all relative! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
Agreed....
By the way, you might want to practice short field landings... It is an
amazing plane and it my someday come in very handy, especially in an emergency
Best,
Dave
Message 18
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Serialize complete at 10/24/2005 04:55:19 PM
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
I tried pulling on near full flap when the tail is up on a short field
takeoff on wheels, and it is amazing how the Kitfox IV jumps into the air.
I hear it works great on glassy water too on floats when the suction is
holding the plane down. Leaving the flap setting full up at first seems to
allow the plane to get up to speed faster. Seems to me this was a
technique used with the Maule as well.
Gary Walsh
KF IV Anphib 912S
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
do not archive
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "daniel johnson" <kitfox91je@hotmail.com>
I was taught to fly the maule in the same manner...always a good idea to
keep your hand on the lever if you want to do this...i've hear of it getting
messy when guys would snatch the flaps and not get a detent before letting
go in the Maule.
I had a great experience with a short field the other day...winds kicked up
really gusty in a crosswind while i was out...i have a K3. We had 20 plus
gallons, 2 aboard and a bag pod under. landed across some grass by our
hangers into the wind...got stopped inside 50 feet without brakes. I was
pretty impressed with the plane. Dan
>From: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Short field
>Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 16:55:14 -0400 Serialize complete at
>10/24/2005 04:55:19 PM
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky
><kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
>
>I tried pulling on near full flap when the tail is up on a short field
>takeoff on wheels, and it is amazing how the Kitfox IV jumps into the air.
> I hear it works great on glassy water too on floats when the suction is
>holding the plane down. Leaving the flap setting full up at first seems to
>allow the plane to get up to speed faster. Seems to me this was a
>technique used with the Maule as well.
>
>Gary Walsh
>KF IV Anphib 912S
>C-GOOT
>www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 20
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
I set my flaps at full then add full power and I jump into the air, a real short
field takeoff!
Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: kitfoxjunky<mailto:kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Short field
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com<mailto:kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com>>
I tried pulling on near full flap when the tail is up on a short field
takeoff on wheels, and it is amazing how the Kitfox IV jumps into the air.
I hear it works great on glassy water too on floats when the suction is
holding the plane down. Leaving the flap setting full up at first seems to
allow the plane to get up to speed faster. Seems to me this was a
technique used with the Maule as well.
Gary Walsh
KF IV Anphib 912S
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox<http://www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox>
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Altering early wing section |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
The early wing section was designed by Dean Wilson for the Avid A
model. It is not a standard catalogued section. None-the-less it
performs very well at low speed, better than the MK IV section. If you
are interested in STOL it is a better profile. If speed is your need
you need a different airplane. However you can gain a not
inconsequential increase in speed with careful fairing of the struts and
roots and landing gear. On a Mod III I'd stick with the original wing
and enjoy the superior short field performance.
Jerry Liles
Gordon Faulkner wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gordon Faulkner" <hagar@othertonair.freeserve.co.uk>
>
>Dear Foxfolk,
>Is there a consensus view regarding the benefits (or otherwise) of infilling
>the underside of the early wing ribs?
>
>I've been told that the cruise performance of my Mk3 will be improved by
>altering the standard wing section to the one introduced on the Mk4. Since
>I'm soon to start making my wings this would be the time to make the change
>but I'd feel happier about the decision after hearing a few more opinions.
>Is there anyone on list who's actually made this particular modification?
>
>Much of my flying will be from short grass airstrips, my home airfield has
>300 yards available.
>
>Gordon Faulkner
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | glass streaks and scratches |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Searched the archives for a recent post regarding a spray cleaner of
some sort that gets rid of streaking or scratches that impair visibility
in your windshield or bubble doors. Anyone remember what the product or
solution was?
Thanks,
Jared
Message 23
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| Subject: | glass streaks and scratches |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Jared,
Go to your local car parts store and ask for something for your plastic
windshield in your boat. Aircraft Spruce has something too, but may cost
more.
Also get some "microfiber" towels. They won't scratch your windshield.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jareds
Subject: Kitfox-List: glass streaks and scratches
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Searched the archives for a recent post regarding a spray cleaner of
some sort that gets rid of streaking or scratches that impair visibility
in your windshield or bubble doors. Anyone remember what the product or
solution was?
Thanks,
Jared
Message 24
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| Subject: | glass streaks and scratches |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Jared I was in My shop with an automotive buffer and tryed it on my
winshield. Just like on paint it polished out the scraches like new. As
with paint it is easy to " burn through". Use caution but with the right
buffing compounds even deep scraches can be buffed out. Test on scraps
first.
Ron NB Ore.
>From: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20040804.Netscape/7.2 (ax)
>Subject: Kitfox-List: glass streaks and scratches
>Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 20:18:08 -0500
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>
>Searched the archives for a recent post regarding a spray cleaner of
>some sort that gets rid of streaking or scratches that impair visibility
>in your windshield or bubble doors. Anyone remember what the product or
>solution was?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jared
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 25
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
HI Guys, Im settling into the new plane really well and although my wife wont let
me sleep in the hanger with it yet our relationship is becoming firmly established.
I do however have a storage problem and need some advise as to how you
have all dealt with this issue. I have decided against a pod at this stage leaving
behind the seat storage the only option. Has anyone glassed in this area
or made shelves or anything similar to help out with carrying your gear around.
There appears to be plenty of room behind the seat so some advice, photo's
etc detailing how you have managed it would be great.
Cheers
Graeme Toft
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: glass streaks and scratches |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Ron,
Does this work to get the "cloudiness" out of the glass too?
ron schick wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
>Jared I was in My shop with an automotive buffer and tryed it on my
>winshield. Just like on paint it polished out the scraches like new. As
>with paint it is easy to " burn through". Use caution but with the right
>buffing compounds even deep scraches can be buffed out. Test on scraps
>first.
> Ron NB Ore.
>
>
>
>
>>From: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20040804.Netscape/7.2 (ax)
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: glass streaks and scratches
>>Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 20:18:08 -0500
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>>
>>Searched the archives for a recent post regarding a spray cleaner of
>>some sort that gets rid of streaking or scratches that impair visibility
>>in your windshield or bubble doors. Anyone remember what the product or
>>solution was?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Jared
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
>get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Cheers Graeme,
Most people opt for a "baggage sack" for the behind the seat area. The same
people who make the Skystar upholstery make them. Or you can make one
yourself.
Also don't forget for the Series 5 and above, John McBean sells an
under-the-seat storage bin.
Don Pearsall
Sound Appraisal
Seattle, WA USA
425-392.4627
FAX 425-557-0107
donpearsall@comcast.net
http://www.soundappraisal.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graeme Toft
Subject: Kitfox-List: Storage issues
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
HI Guys, Im settling into the new plane really well and although my wife
wont let me sleep in the hanger with it yet our relationship is becoming
firmly established. I do however have a storage problem and need some advise
as to how you have all dealt with this issue. I have decided against a pod
at this stage leaving behind the seat storage the only option. Has anyone
glassed in this area or made shelves or anything similar to help out with
carrying your gear around. There appears to be plenty of room behind the
seat so some advice, photo's etc detailing how you have managed it would be
great.
Cheers
Graeme Toft
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: glass streaks and scratches |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Negative.. Surface defects only Ron
>From: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20040804.Netscape/7.2 (ax)
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: glass streaks and scratches
>Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 23:16:32 -0500
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
>
>Ron,
>
>Does this work to get the "cloudiness" out of the glass too?
>
>ron schick wrote:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
><roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Jared I was in My shop with an automotive buffer and tryed it on my
> >winshield. Just like on paint it polished out the scraches like new. As
> >with paint it is easy to " burn through". Use caution but with the right
> >buffing compounds even deep scraches can be buffed out. Test on scraps
> >first.
> > Ron NB Ore.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>From: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
> >>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20040804.Netscape/7.2 (ax)
> >>Subject: Kitfox-List: glass streaks and scratches
> >>Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 20:18:08 -0500
> >>
> >>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
> >>
> >>Searched the archives for a recent post regarding a spray cleaner of
> >>some sort that gets rid of streaking or scratches that impair visibility
> >>in your windshield or bubble doors. Anyone remember what the product or
> >>solution was?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Jared
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
> >get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
I also have one listed in the email I posted. It has a nice lite aluminum
bottom to hold stuff witout warping.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Pearsall
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Storage issues
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Cheers Graeme,
Most people opt for a "baggage sack" for the behind the seat area. The same
people who make the Skystar upholstery make them. Or you can make one
yourself.
Also don't forget for the Series 5 and above, John McBean sells an
under-the-seat storage bin.
Don Pearsall
Sound Appraisal
Seattle, WA USA
425-392.4627
FAX 425-557-0107
donpearsall@comcast.net
http://www.soundappraisal.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graeme Toft
Subject: Kitfox-List: Storage issues
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
HI Guys, Im settling into the new plane really well and although my wife
wont let me sleep in the hanger with it yet our relationship is becoming
firmly established. I do however have a storage problem and need some advise
as to how you have all dealt with this issue. I have decided against a pod
at this stage leaving behind the seat storage the only option. Has anyone
glassed in this area or made shelves or anything similar to help out with
carrying your gear around. There appears to be plenty of room behind the
seat so some advice, photo's etc detailing how you have managed it would be
great.
Cheers
Graeme Toft
Message 30
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Hi all!
Does anyone have a recommendation on how to seal the openings
where the gear shock-cord comes through? It seems like a likely entrance
for exhaust fumes.
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 31
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
Wow, for a while I thought I had a bunch of time. I sent in my registration
forms a couple of weeks ago, expecting a 2-3 month turnaround. What ho! I
received my registration today! I guess I'll have to finish the plane ASAP.
I was going to put the wings on for the last time last week and realized
that I would never get a baggage box in once the wings were on. Thus I
spent the last week or so building a rigid baggage box behind the seats.
I'm praying now that my weight and balance allows me to use it. I'm hoping
to do my weight and balance at the Nov 19 Kitfox fly-in at Brown, in San Diego.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 32
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas White <twhitepa@magiclink.com>
Hello,
I'm new to the list and am impressed with the support out there. I'm
one of the unlucky ones that put down a $12,000 deposit on a Classic IV
and got nothing due to the Bankruptcy. I was discouraged at first, but
I think the Kitfox is a great plane and decided to buy a completed one
and am picking up a model II on Friday. My question is, this has the
old 582 plate mount and I would like to upgrade. I have the mount that
goes to the firewall, but there are 4 brackets and rubber pieces that
bolt to the engine and then the mount. Does anyone know where I could
get these, or get dimensions and fabricate my own?
Thanks
Tom White
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