Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:19 AM - Speed fairing (Gary Olson)
2. 08:25 AM - CAP 140 spares (Brian Rodgers)
3. 08:59 AM - Re: CO Exposure (Michael Gibbs)
4. 10:32 AM - Re: CAP 140 spares (Lowell Fitt)
5. 10:35 AM - Re: Speed fairing (Lowell Fitt)
6. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: CO Exposure (Michel Verheughe)
7. 03:03 PM - Re Fuel Level sensors (Rex & Jan Shaw)
8. 04:55 PM - Re: Speed fairing (jdmcbean)
9. 05:27 PM - Re: Speed fairing (Glenn Horne)
10. 05:38 PM - Re: Re Fuel Level sensors (Steve Zakreski)
11. 06:01 PM - Re: Part-Out or Sell Kit? (Barbara Jones)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson <ofd725@yahoo.com>
How far up on the lift strut do you trim the speed fairings? Mine are 8" and when
I fold the wings back, the corner of the trailing edge of the fairing contacts
the fuselage fabric with about 5-10 degrees of travel yet to go. Am I supposed
to cut the corner off of the fairing or just trim it back until there is
no contact. My manual appears to be missing the instructions for the speed fairing
application. If anyone could e-mail me a copy I would greatly appreciate
it. Thanks.
Gary
---------------------------------
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brian Rodgers" <brodg@texas.net>
I am having trouble with the four itty, bitty screws in the CAP 140's pitch adjustment
gear reduction unit.
They are probably 1-64 countersunk machine screws; d*mn tiny!
The threads are worn off due to looseness, but they are definitely smaller than
the 2-56 screws on the other side of the internally splined, brass tube on the
gear reduction unit (420:1?).
Anyway, I am looking for spare parts / ideas as I'm not getting anywhere on the
NSI website.
Has anyone messed with this gear reduction unit or know of its origin?
I'd like something slight more durable and the current plan is to have the holes
remachined to 2-56 (and the hole pattern rotated 90 degrees) in the brass splined
tube.
Brian
IV w/ currently inoperable CAP140/912
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Michel sez:
>"Guys, statistics shows that there is one aviation fatality due to
>CO, per year, in the US. Scaled to the Norwegian population, that
>would be one fatality every 60 years!"
>
>If this is the case, I agree that CO poisoning is not a major problem.
As with most accident causes, Michel, it's only a major problem if it
happens to you. :-)
Inexpensive CO detectors can be had for less than US$5, last for 6
months or more, and can be placed just about anywhere (Sporty's Pilot
Shop, for example:
<http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&Product_ID=919&DID=19>).
Why take chances?
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CAP 140 spares |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Brian,
I am not familiar with the 140 unit, but a good Radio Control store should
have the small screws.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Rodgers" <brodg@texas.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: CAP 140 spares
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brian Rodgers" <brodg@texas.net>
>
> I am having trouble with the four itty, bitty screws in the CAP 140's
> pitch adjustment gear reduction unit.
> They are probably 1-64 countersunk machine screws; d*mn tiny!
> The threads are worn off due to looseness, but they are definitely smaller
> than the 2-56 screws on the other side of the internally splined, brass
> tube on the gear reduction unit (420:1?).
> Anyway, I am looking for spare parts / ideas as I'm not getting anywhere
> on the NSI website.
> Has anyone messed with this gear reduction unit or know of its origin?
> I'd like something slight more durable and the current plan is to have the
> holes remachined to 2-56 (and the hole pattern rotated 90 degrees) in the
> brass splined tube.
> Brian
> IV w/ currently inoperable CAP140/912
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Speed fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Gary,
Trim the aft of the strut fairing. Mine are trimmed up about 21 inches from
the bolt center and the total width of the fairing at the lower end is 2.5
inches.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Olson" <ofd725@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Speed fairing
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson <ofd725@yahoo.com>
>
> How far up on the lift strut do you trim the speed fairings? Mine are 8"
> and when I fold the wings back, the corner of the trailing edge of the
> fairing contacts the fuselage fabric with about 5-10 degrees of travel yet
> to go. Am I supposed to cut the corner off of the fairing or just trim it
> back until there is no contact. My manual appears to be missing the
> instructions for the speed fairing application. If anyone could e-mail me
> a copy I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Gary
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Dec 10, 2005, at 5:59 PM, Michael Gibbs wrote:
> Inexpensive CO detectors can be had for less than US$5
Mike and Bradley, as I wrote in another email, I already have a CO
detector (Quantum Eye), one that my wife insisted I should have, long
before I installed the cabin heater.
But some people insist that, even with the detector, some long lasting
small dose of CO may put me off before the detector reacts. So I was
wondering what was the first symptoms so that I could be warned before
it gets worse.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re Fuel Level sensors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Hi ! Guys,
Wow ! this list has to be the most helpfull thing in the
whole universe. With Colin's help it looks like I have access to the opto
sensor I wanted. There is also a lot of other comments that are interesting
and helpfull. I totally agree a gauge in the header tank is pointless. By
the time that would start dropping I'm sure I for one would be looking
elsewhere.
Re Lyn's comment about the float switch needing to float to turn off the
light and there not being enough room in the top of the tank. My
understanding of this problem is that these switches come in 2 different
versions. Either open or closed circuit when the float drops. However that
function is reversed if the switch is turned over but in Lyn's case to get
the switch function right he had the float going higher than level with a
full tank [ except it was hitting the roof ] because he had the wrong
version. Hope that helps anyone buying one of these to get it right. Anyway
he has solved his problem.
My preference is for the optical sensor. Being an electronics guy that side
is fine by me and I don't need to fit it in the tank but as I said just in
the end of a small bit of say !" tube mounted horizontal above the tank
with the breather pipe going in the bottom and out the top.
I am just a little concerned in case the optical switch is not reliable and
also that it is OK in fuel. However I have had a comment back from one
supplier that it is OK in fuel and also that it is reliable. They said "In
clean petrol" so I do wonder though what that comment meant. Do I take it
that if in a Petroil mixture it might be a problem. That's OK for me as I
use an injection pump. OR are they saying "Clean" to cover their backside as
an excuse for unreliable results ?
I hope Colin is soon feeling better again and I look forward to any
further input. Thanks Colin.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Gary,
Try http://desertfoxsquadron.org/PVC%20Fairings.htm Put this up a long time
ago...
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Olson
Subject: Kitfox-List: Speed fairing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson <ofd725@yahoo.com>
How far up on the lift strut do you trim the speed fairings? Mine are 8" and
when I fold the wings back, the corner of the trailing edge of the fairing
contacts the fuselage fabric with about 5-10 degrees of travel yet to go. Am
I supposed to cut the corner off of the fairing or just trim it back until
there is no contact. My manual appears to be missing the instructions for
the speed fairing application. If anyone could e-mail me a copy I would
greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Gary
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Speed fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@verizon.net>
TRIM UNTIL THERE IS NO CONTACT.
Glenn Model II. Work for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Olson" <ofd725@yahoo.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Speed fairing
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson <ofd725@yahoo.com>
>
> How far up on the lift strut do you trim the speed fairings? Mine are 8"
> and when I fold the wings back, the corner of the trailing edge of the
> fairing contacts the fuselage fabric with about 5-10 degrees of travel yet
> to go. Am I supposed to cut the corner off of the fairing or just trim it
> back until there is no contact. My manual appears to be missing the
> instructions for the speed fairing application. If anyone could e-mail me
> a copy I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
>
> Gary
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re Fuel Level sensors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
My Skystar optical sensor has been immersed in fuel for 5 years with no
problems. Make sure you paint the header black if you are using a plastic
header tank.
SteveZ
Calgary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rex & Jan Shaw
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re Fuel Level sensors
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Hi ! Guys,
Wow ! this list has to be the most helpfull thing in the
whole universe. With Colin's help it looks like I have access to the opto
sensor I wanted. There is also a lot of other comments that are interesting
and helpfull. I totally agree a gauge in the header tank is pointless. By
the time that would start dropping I'm sure I for one would be looking
elsewhere.
Re Lyn's comment about the float switch needing to float to turn off the
light and there not being enough room in the top of the tank. My
understanding of this problem is that these switches come in 2 different
versions. Either open or closed circuit when the float drops. However that
function is reversed if the switch is turned over but in Lyn's case to get
the switch function right he had the float going higher than level with a
full tank [ except it was hitting the roof ] because he had the wrong
version. Hope that helps anyone buying one of these to get it right. Anyway
he has solved his problem.
My preference is for the optical sensor. Being an electronics guy that side
is fine by me and I don't need to fit it in the tank but as I said just in
the end of a small bit of say !" tube mounted horizontal above the tank
with the breather pipe going in the bottom and out the top.
I am just a little concerned in case the optical switch is not reliable and
also that it is OK in fuel. However I have had a comment back from one
supplier that it is OK in fuel and also that it is reliable. They said "In
clean petrol" so I do wonder though what that comment meant. Do I take it
that if in a Petroil mixture it might be a problem. That's OK for me as I
use an injection pump. OR are they saying "Clean" to cover their backside as
an excuse for unreliable results ?
I hope Colin is soon feeling better again and I look forward to any
further input. Thanks Colin.
Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Part-Out or Sell Kit? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Barbara Jones <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
Rod,
My opinion is that an uncompleted kit...especially a complete kit... is
now worth much more as a complete kit than as parts. I think you would
end up not being able to sell the big money parts, like the fuselage, in
a timely matter. If money and time is not important to him, he can
hang on and eventually all the parts will most likely sell.
Some will remember a few years ago a list member parted out a beautiful
plane...I think it was an Avid...because he did not want any part of the
liability of selling a plane he had built. I followed the history of
that sale and you had to be quick to buy or the parts you wanted would
be sold. I was too late to get the prop.
I'll put my nomex on and also say that my opinion is that a kit is worth
more that a completed plane and the less work done on the kit the more
it is worth.
Anyone want to buy my completed and inspected kitfox for the money I
have invested in it?
Tom Jones
PS, I might be interested in the 582 and FWF if he wants to sell those.
Rod Ewing wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rod Ewing" <rode@alaska.com>
>
>Time constraints have brought about the need to sell my Classic IV 582 project.
Given the current status of SkyStar, do you think it may be better to part
the kit out or offer the kit for sale?
>
>Rod in Alaska
>rode@alaska.com
>
>
>
>
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