Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:45 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Carb Venting (Bob Robertson)
2. 09:12 AM - Re: Paint (Donald STEVENSON)
3. 09:37 AM - Re: Paint (Brett Walmsley)
4. 10:01 AM - Purolator fuel filters revisited (Lynn Matteson)
5. 10:16 AM - Drain valves (Clint Bazzill)
6. 10:27 AM - Rotax 912 & 914 (Clint Bazzill)
7. 11:04 AM - fabric temp/ paint (ron schick)
8. 11:26 AM - Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited (James Shumaker)
9. 11:30 AM - Re: fabric temp/ paint (James Shumaker)
10. 12:13 PM - Re: fabric temp/ paint (Randy Daughenbaugh)
11. 12:49 PM - Re: Paint (Guy Buchanan)
12. 01:27 PM - Re: Paint (eccles)
13. 01:33 PM - paint hoses- water trap (ron schick)
14. 01:51 PM - Re: Paint (Donald STEVENSON)
15. 02:01 PM - Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited (Alan & Linda Daniels)
16. 02:15 PM - Re: fabric temp/ paint (Alan & Linda Daniels)
17. 02:17 PM - Fw: Re: Aeroelectric Seminar at Prescott (Dan Billingsley)
18. 02:26 PM - Re: Paint (Alan & Linda Daniels)
19. 02:26 PM - Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited (Lynn Matteson)
20. 02:29 PM - Re: fabric temp/ paint (Lynn Matteson)
21. 02:30 PM - Re: fabric temp/ paint (ron schick)
22. 02:37 PM - Kitfox 4-1200 For Sale (Jay Fabian)
23. 02:45 PM - Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video (ron schick)
24. 02:51 PM - Re: Paint (Lynn Matteson)
25. 03:02 PM - Re: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video (Ronald K. Stevens)
26. 03:10 PM - Re: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video (Howard Firm)
27. 03:10 PM - Re: Paint (Lynn Matteson)
28. 03:10 PM - Re: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video (jdmcbean)
29. 03:20 PM - Re: paint hoses- water trap (Lynn Matteson)
30. 04:13 PM - Who was looking for Purolator Fuel Filter?? (Rich Williamson)
31. 04:47 PM - Re: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video (ron schick)
32. 05:20 PM - Re: Who was looking for Purolator Fuel Filter?? (Lynn Matteson)
33. 05:31 PM - Re: fabric temp/ paint (Brett Walmsley)
34. 05:32 PM - Re: Paint (Brett Walmsley)
35. 06:39 PM - Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited (Lowell Fitt)
36. 07:02 PM - Re: paint hoses- water trap (Alan & Linda Daniels)
37. 07:54 PM - Re: Drain valves (wingsdown)
38. 08:45 PM - Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited (Lynn Matteson)
39. 08:51 PM - Re: paint hoses- water trap (Lynn Matteson)
40. 10:41 PM - Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited (James Shumaker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Carb Venting |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
Rick,
The lines as they are shipped from the factory are 120mm (a tad longer than
4 3/4").
Thats what I'd stay with. Differences in cowling pressures and temperatures
between airplanes
could make a difference in air pressure in the float bowl. Therefore any
changes to where the float bowl chambers tubes are placed could result in a
dramatic change.
Hope this helps
Bob R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Williamson" <rwill1@adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 912 Carb Venting
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rich Williamson" <rwill1@adelphia.net>
>
> Bob,
> Is there a "recommended" length for the vent tubes to extend?
>
>
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
Hi Smokey, I've just read your post and since I will
be ready to paint my M4 Speedster in the spring I have
a question or two for you. What model is your kit, and
what type of HLVP unit did you use, was it a complete
system or just a gun using a standard air compressor.
I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
exists)
Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
--- Brett Walmsley <N93HJ@numail.org> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley"
> <N93HJ@numail.org>
>
> I am almost done.
> Going to be pretty close to:
> 6 gal poly brush (1 brush 2 cross)
> 6 gal poly spray (3 cross)
> 6 gal ins. white poly tone (3 cross)
> used 8500 reducer. HVLP gun.
> very happy with results.
> Easy.
> Watch out for static electricity.
> Regards
> Smokey in Georgia
>
> First time for me covering and painting.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Olson" <ofd725@yahoo.com>
> To: "Builder Hotline" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 5:30 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Paint
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson
> <ofd725@yahoo.com>
> >
> > I am starting to plan for the painting of my S7. I
> have read the Polyfiber
> > manual completely and am wondering what kind of
> success everyone else has
> > had using this method. What kind of process would
> you guys recomend to
> > paint the aluminum and fiberglass? I am going to
> use a Polytone paint. How
> > much is required to do the job?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Gary Olson
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get
> quality prints in your hands
> > ASAP.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <N93HJ@numail.org>
My kit is a M4 long wing with all the speedster mods.
The gun is a porter-cable PSH1 w/ standard nozzle (ebay $45) (I they are
over a hundred new)(many companies have similar models)
It is just a gun with the 20 oz. tank on top. Running a 22# +-.
Works real nice for me. I am NOT a painter.
One piece of advice I would give, would be to not over think the process.
It's just not that complicated.
The poly process is just like they say, "dead easy".
p.s. Watch out for static electricity ;-)
Regards, Brett (smokey or sparky, I've heard em all since I tried to burn my
airplane up)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald STEVENSON" <shericom@rogers.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Paint
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
>
> Hi Smokey, I've just read your post and since I will
> be ready to paint my M4 Speedster in the spring I have
> a question or two for you. What model is your kit, and
> what type of HLVP unit did you use, was it a complete
> system or just a gun using a standard air compressor.
> I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
> need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
> exists)
> Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
> Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
> --- Brett Walmsley <N93HJ@numail.org> wrote:
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley"
>> <N93HJ@numail.org>
>>
>> I am almost done.
>> Going to be pretty close to:
>> 6 gal poly brush (1 brush 2 cross)
>> 6 gal poly spray (3 cross)
>> 6 gal ins. white poly tone (3 cross)
>> used 8500 reducer. HVLP gun.
>> very happy with results.
>> Easy.
>> Watch out for static electricity.
>> Regards
>> Smokey in Georgia
>>
>> First time for me covering and painting.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gary Olson" <ofd725@yahoo.com>
>> To: "Builder Hotline" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 5:30 PM
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Paint
>>
>>
>> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson
>> <ofd725@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> > I am starting to plan for the painting of my S7. I
>> have read the Polyfiber
>> > manual completely and am wondering what kind of
>> success everyone else has
>> > had using this method. What kind of process would
>> you guys recomend to
>> > paint the aluminum and fiberglass? I am going to
>> use a Polytone paint. How
>> > much is required to do the job?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Gary Olson
>> >
>> >
>> > ---------------------------------
>> > Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get
>> quality prints in your hands
>> > ASAP.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>>
>> Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I just spent a few hours researching the Purolator glass in-line fuel
filter subject, and was wondering if there was any recent news
regarding this subject. I perused several Matronics lists and found
pros and cons on the subject. I have then in my fuel lines down to the
header tank, and have been taxiing my plane with no problems so far. I
would like to install another after the header tank, which is behind
the seat, but before the auxiliary fuel pump. It seems that locally the
Purolators are no longer available, nor do they show up on Purolators
website, and everyone tries to sell me a Mr. Gasket look-alike, but
they are of VERY poor quality compared to the Purolator product. So,
can anybody shed some new light on this subject? I'd really like to see
what the filter is trapping, and don't like the idea of those cheap
plastic automotive filters.
Lynn
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
Can someone tell me the number for the wing tank drain valves. Thanks
Message 6
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Cc: davedent@comcast.net
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
I was in Livermore airport yesterday and met Dave Dent. He has a 914 and I
believe 2 0r 3 912's for sale. You can contact him at davedent@comcast.net
Message 7
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| Subject: | fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to
go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am
ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
possible.
I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this
as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
covered so well. Ron NB Or
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Lynn
After years of flying with the glass purolator just before the carbs, I got bored
with seeing the same thing over and over. I considered the screwed together
glass case to be a weak point and so now use a cheap STEEL automotive fuel
filter. This filter is after the gascolator screen and is changed annually.
Remember, the more devices you have in line the more flow restrictions.
Jim Shumaker
Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
I just spent a few hours researching the Purolator glass in-line fuel
filter subject, and was wondering if there was any recent news
regarding this subject. I perused several Matronics lists and found
pros and cons on the subject. I have then in my fuel lines down to the
header tank, and have been taxiing my plane with no problems so far. I
would like to install another after the header tank, which is behind
the seat, but before the auxiliary fuel pump. It seems that locally the
Purolators are no longer available, nor do they show up on Purolators
website, and everyone tries to sell me a Mr. Gasket look-alike, but
they are of VERY poor quality compared to the Purolator product. So,
can anybody shed some new light on this subject? I'd really like to see
what the filter is trapping, and don't like the idea of those cheap
plastic automotive filters.
Lynn
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Ron
250 degrees F.
More paint is more weight. Do you want to fly well or show well? One of the
tricks that was employed with the early kitfoxes was a very thin paint coat to
save weight.
Jim Shumaker
ron schick <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to
go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am
ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
possible.
I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this
as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
covered so well. Ron NB Or
Message 10
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| Subject: | fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
300F most places. 275 F in some places.
350F is too high for our foxes. And be sure your iron calibration is
accurate.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Shumaker
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: fabric temp/ paint
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker
<jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Ron
250 degrees F.
More paint is more weight. Do you want to fly well or show well? One of
the tricks that was employed with the early kitfoxes was a very thin paint
coat to save weight.
Jim Shumaker
ron schick <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to
go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am
ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
possible.
I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this
as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
covered so well. Ron NB Or
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 09:11 AM 1/21/2006, you wrote:
>I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
>need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
>exists)
>Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
>Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
I use the Husky HVLP gun and it seems to work well. However, if I had to do
it all over again I'd buy a more expensive professional gun. The Husky is a
pain to clean completely and I'm beginning to think cleaning it causes more
wear and tear than use. I recently had to rebuild the internals because
some had simply worn out from assembly/ disassembly. (In particular, the
air cap started leaking; a bad thing for an air gun.) I'd like to find a
gun that's made to be used and cleaned daily over a long period of time.
gun. I installed both a water separator and then a dryer in line. I've
never seen water in the separator so I think that was a waste of effort.
Here in San Diego the dryer works hard. I bought a really large one, (the
bowl is about 10" long and 4" diameter,) so I'd be able to do a lot of
paint without having to dry the agent.
2) is a pressure regulator at the gun. I run 90 psi to the gun and then
between 25 and 40 psi at the gun. I like this system a lot better than
using the compressor's regulator since there are no line losses.
Guy
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "eccles" <eccles@chartermi.net>
Hey guys
jumping in with my two cents , what kind of paint are you spraying aerothane
or polytone for the final coats?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Paint
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 09:11 AM 1/21/2006, you wrote:
>I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
>need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
>exists)
>Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
>Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
I use the Husky HVLP gun and it seems to work well. However, if I had to do
it all over again I'd buy a more expensive professional gun. The Husky is a
pain to clean completely and I'm beginning to think cleaning it causes more
wear and tear than use. I recently had to rebuild the internals because
some had simply worn out from assembly/ disassembly. (In particular, the
air cap started leaking; a bad thing for an air gun.) I'd like to find a
gun that's made to be used and cleaned daily over a long period of time.
gun. I installed both a water separator and then a dryer in line. I've
never seen water in the separator so I think that was a waste of effort.
Here in San Diego the dryer works hard. I bought a really large one, (the
bowl is about 10" long and 4" diameter,) so I'd be able to do a lot of
paint without having to dry the agent.
2) is a pressure regulator at the gun. I run 90 psi to the gun and then
between 25 and 40 psi at the gun. I like this system a lot better than
using the compressor's regulator since there are no line losses.
Guy
Message 13
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| Subject: | paint hoses- water trap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I have 50' hose to water trap which I leave barely hissing then 50' more to
workshop then 25' to gun. The first 50' acts as a condensor for water
separation. 50-60 psi at compressor gives good consistant gun pressure.
HVLP may require a secondary tank near gun. Raining cats and dogs in
Oregon, but painting anyway. Ron NB Or
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
Polytone when I get to that point, Don
--- eccles <eccles@Chartermi.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "eccles"
> <eccles@chartermi.net>
>
> Hey guys
> jumping in with my two cents , what kind of paint
> are you spraying aerothane
> or polytone for the final coats?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 2:48 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Paint
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
> <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 09:11 AM 1/21/2006, you wrote:
> >I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
> >need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
> >exists)
> >Any comments you may have would be a great help.
> Don
> >Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
>
> I use the Husky HVLP gun and it seems to work well.
> However, if I had to do
> it all over again I'd buy a more expensive
> professional gun. The Husky is a
> pain to clean completely and I'm beginning to think
> cleaning it causes more
> wear and tear than use. I recently had to rebuild
> the internals because
> some had simply worn out from assembly/ disassembly.
> (In particular, the
> air cap started leaking; a bad thing for an air
> gun.) I'd like to find a
> gun that's made to be used and cleaned daily over a
> long period of time.
>
> gun. I installed both a water separator and then a
> dryer in line. I've
> never seen water in the separator so I think that
> was a waste of effort.
> Here in San Diego the dryer works hard. I bought a
> really large one, (the
> bowl is about 10" long and 4" diameter,) so I'd be
> able to do a lot of
> paint without having to dry the agent.
>
> 2) is a pressure regulator at the gun. I run 90 psi
> to the gun and then
> between 25 and 40 psi at the gun. I like this system
> a lot better than
> using the compressor's regulator since there are no
> line losses.
>
>
> Guy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
I have been using the NAPA version of the same filter -glass with a
nylon filter- just above the the header tank for 9 years with no
problems. I have done it two ways, one is above the seat so I can see
it, the other is just above the header tank and I cut 1 1/2 inch holes
in the seat back so I could pull the seat cushion back forward and see
them. I have see and heard of problems with using the paper inline type
filter. For some reason there is not always enough head pressure to push
the gas through them, especially at altitude.
Lynn Matteson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
>I just spent a few hours researching the Purolator glass in-line fuel
>filter subject, and was wondering if there was any recent news
>regarding this subject. I perused several Matronics lists and found
>pros and cons on the subject. I have then in my fuel lines down to the
>header tank, and have been taxiing my plane with no problems so far. I
>would like to install another after the header tank, which is behind
>the seat, but before the auxiliary fuel pump. It seems that locally the
>Purolators are no longer available, nor do they show up on Purolators
>website, and everyone tries to sell me a Mr. Gasket look-alike, but
>they are of VERY poor quality compared to the Purolator product. So,
>can anybody shed some new light on this subject? I'd really like to see
>what the filter is trapping, and don't like the idea of those cheap
>plastic automotive filters.
>
>Lynn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric seems
a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the wing
seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead simple,
but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern Oregon.
Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
>
>300F most places. 275 F in some places.
>
>350F is too high for our foxes. And be sure your iron calibration is
>accurate.
>
>Randy
>
>.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Shumaker
>Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 12:30 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: fabric temp/ paint
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker
><jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Ron
>
> 250 degrees F.
>
> More paint is more weight. Do you want to fly well or show well? One of
>the tricks that was employed with the early kitfoxes was a very thin paint
>coat to save weight.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>ron schick <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>
>What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself to
>go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I am
>ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
>possible.
>I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
>polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
>second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
>advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for this
>as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
>beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
>close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
>move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
>completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
>not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
>covered so well. Ron NB Or
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: Aeroelectric Seminar at Prescott |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
Note: forwarded message attached.
X-Apparently-To: dan@azshowersolutions.com via 68.142.225.201; Sat, 21 Jan 2006
08:46:24 -0800
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References: <d7516c55a82e9d97f35b5aa08f6526e4@cableone.net>
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroelectric Seminar at Prescott
phantomphixer@adelphia.net,
dave@davebarnhart.com,
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Billingsley Dan <dan@azshowersolutions.com>,
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jack@lawless.cc,
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Parkes Tom <tkpark@cableone.net>,
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The Prescott Seminar is now on Bob's AeroElectric site.
You can sign up very easily by going to:
http://aeroelectric.com/seminars/Prescott.html
No prepayment required - in fact you will only have to pay what you
really feel the seminar was worth if you don't think it was worth the
$150.00!
On Jan 11, 2006, at 7:28 PM, John Ackerman wrote:
> Hello!
>
> Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric Connection fame will be putting on a
> two-day seminar/workshop at Prescott Airport (Love field, KPRC) on May
> 20 and 21, sponsored by EAA chapter 658. Bob is arguably the foremost
> authority on homebuilt aircraft electrical systems. His approach is
> highly practical, and is based on sound engineering principles and a
> scientific attitude.
>
> Seminar emphasis is on reliable and non-noisy systems. Details can be
> found on Bob's web site:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/
> Just click on Weekend Seminars. Content will range from theory to
> hands-on demonstrations.
>
> You can sign up on the web site. The Prescott event may not be up yet
> when you get there, but I expect it will be soon. The web site is a
> gold mine of useful information, but be warned -you can spend a lot of
> time there! The seminar is based on the Aeroelectric Connection book.
> Studying this resource in advance will multiply the benefit of the
> seminar; there's a special price for seminar attendees . Just add a
> request for immediate mailing in the comments box of the reservation
> form.
>
> We will have AM coffee and a lunch on Saturday, Dutch treat. We will
> arrange a place for all interested participants to dine on Saturday
> night from among the many excellent restaurants in the area. We are
> currently working on a spouses' program; there are a number of museums
> and other attractions in the Prescott area. We hope to have a special
> rate available at the motel across highway 89 from the airport. There
> are a number of motels and hotels of varying degrees of luxury in the
> area.
>
> The cost of the seminar is $150, but Bob's policy is "If you don't
> think it was worth $150 after the seminar, just pay me what you think
> it WAS worth". Chapter 658 will make nothing on the seminar, and will
> stand for the Coffee and doughnuts. We will pass the hat for the
> lunch.
>
> Will you kindly forward this message to your chapter members?
>
> Please don't hesitate to call if you have questions or suggestions -
> home phone is 928-759-9279 and mobile is 928-308-0471. We're looking
> forward to seeing you at the seminar!
>
> Best regards.
> John Ackerman chapter 461
> Dan Billingsley chapter 228
Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
If you are getting water when you spray, even using a water separator
there is a trick. This usually happens when you spray a lot and the
compressor and the air gets hot. The water does not come out of the air
till it cools, like coming out of the gun. I got an extra hose and
coiled most of it in a bucket of ice water, then put my water trap after
that hose. This cools the air so the trap can take it out. I like the
Sharp gun. Remember that the size of the tip is critical, so match it to
what you are spraying. Any of the Poly stuff you can use a 1.5 or primer
type gun, but urethane requires a smaller tip.
Guy Buchanan wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
>At 09:11 AM 1/21/2006, you wrote:
>
>
>>I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
>>need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
>>exists)
>>Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
>>Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
>>
>>
>
>I use the Husky HVLP gun and it seems to work well. However, if I had to do
>it all over again I'd buy a more expensive professional gun. The Husky is a
>pain to clean completely and I'm beginning to think cleaning it causes more
>wear and tear than use. I recently had to rebuild the internals because
>some had simply worn out from assembly/ disassembly. (In particular, the
>air cap started leaking; a bad thing for an air gun.) I'd like to find a
>gun that's made to be used and cleaned daily over a long period of time.
>
>gun. I installed both a water separator and then a dryer in line. I've
>never seen water in the separator so I think that was a waste of effort.
>Here in San Diego the dryer works hard. I bought a really large one, (the
>bowl is about 10" long and 4" diameter,) so I'd be able to do a lot of
>paint without having to dry the agent.
>
>2) is a pressure regulator at the gun. I run 90 psi to the gun and then
>between 25 and 40 psi at the gun. I like this system a lot better than
>using the compressor's regulator since there are no line losses.
>
>
>Guy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Thanks, Jim-
Maybe I'll remove the glass filters a little later on, too, but for
now, after having re-Kreemed the tanks, I want to see what's flowing
down to the header tank. Just for the history of it, my 1994 IV is just
now coming together after being owned by three previous owners, and I'm
the first to get it past the "bare bones" stage. Therefore, the tanks
were virgins, and Frank Miller said last year that they should be
re-Kreemed, so I did that. So when the time came for the first splash
of gas, I really needed to satisfy myself that the system was clean,
hence the glass filters. I've always had good luck with them on
automotive installations in the past, then I began reading the archives
which revealed some folks having problems with them. Also, I don't have
a gascolator, using the header tank for that purpose, and taking my gas
sample from the bottom of that header tank. I ran a flow test and that
revealed 8.5 gals. per hour gravity at the fuel inlet to the Jabiru
fuel pump, so I'm well within the parameters for flow...way more than
that if I turn on the aux. pump. If I do install another filter (before
the aux. pump) it would be to catch anything that got by the header
tank.
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 02:25 PM, James Shumaker wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker
> <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hi Lynn
>
> After years of flying with the glass purolator just before the
> carbs, I got bored with seeing the same thing over and over. I
> considered the screwed together glass case to be a weak point and so
> now use a cheap STEEL automotive fuel filter. This filter is after
> the gascolator screen and is changed annually.
>
> Remember, the more devices you have in line the more flow
> restrictions.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>
> Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
>
> I just spent a few hours researching the Purolator glass in-line fuel
> filter subject, and was wondering if there was any recent news
> regarding this subject. I perused several Matronics lists and found
> pros and cons on the subject. I have then in my fuel lines down to the
> header tank, and have been taxiing my plane with no problems so far. I
> would like to install another after the header tank, which is behind
> the seat, but before the auxiliary fuel pump. It seems that locally the
> Purolators are no longer available, nor do they show up on Purolators
> website, and everyone tries to sell me a Mr. Gasket look-alike, but
> they are of VERY poor quality compared to the Purolator product. So,
> can anybody shed some new light on this subject? I'd really like to see
> what the filter is trapping, and don't like the idea of those cheap
> plastic automotive filters.
>
> Lynn
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Did you reinforce the trailing edge of the wing with 3/8" aluminum
tubing per the later Classic IV manual? I did and I used 310F for all
my shrinking.
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 05:15 PM, Alan & Linda Daniels wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels
> <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>
> On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric
> seems
> a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the
> wing
> seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead
> simple,
> but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern
> Oregon.
>
> Randy Daughenbaugh wrote:
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Alan I am in North Bend (oth) next to Coos Bay. Ron NB Or
do not archive
>From: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: fabric temp/ paint
>Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 15:15:15 -0700
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels
><aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>
>On the 5,6,7 I use 325/350 in most places. On cold days the fabric seems
>a little loose when I didn't fully shrink. The trailing edge of the wing
>seems to be the place you have to watch. The Poly system is dead simple,
>but there are a few tricks. Were in Oregon are you, I am in eastern Oregon
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 22
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| Subject: | Kitfox 4-1200 For Sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Fabian" <experimental208nd@comcast.net>
Hi List,
I just wanted to let everyone know that I am selling my 2001 Kitfox 4-1200 .
Here are a few of the specs:
I am in Mass. It is a Kitfox 4-1200, 912UL, 135 hours TT, 3 blade warp drive
ground adj, BRS, oil cooler, baggage sack, Tundra tires, matco tail wheel,
Microair radio, transponder,GPS,Intercom, ELT, blue and wht paint , Built in 2001,
Bubble doors , windsheild, and turtledeck. Wheelan strobes and Nav lights,
droop
tips,Speed mods....
Asking $37,000.
I have pics if needed.
Any other questions just let me know,
Thanks
Jay Fabian
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I have saved to my desktop the video of Jimmy Franklin doing aerobatics in
the Skystar Speedster. It is on lazair.com under kitfox videos. If anyone
has not seen this I think you will be amazed. I hope he is still doing these
graceful moves. Can anyone remember who the pilots were that had the mishap
up north last year? It seems that somewhere in Canada we lost a former
Kifox aerobatic pilot while performing in another aircraft.
I purchased the Kitfox vids that were available a while back and enjoy all
I can see. Soon I hope to post some of our coast as seen through the eyes
of a Kitfox. I hope it's not seen as heiracy, but lazair is the only place
to post, and view, video I think. Ron North Bend Oregon
Message 24
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I used the Polyfiber products throughout, with their enamel for the
metal and f'glas parts. The enamel must be shot over their epoxy
primer. In the case of my flaperon horn brackets, I got this advice:
Shoot the brackets with epoxy primer, then while it is still wet, shoot
with polybrush. Shooting into the wet primer makes a transition from
the epoxy primer to the polybrush, and eventually the polyspray, and
finally the polytone. I chose to do this because I wanted to rivet the
brackets on before shooting anything on my wings, so that my brackets
would be a matching color, and the rivet heads would be painted. I've
seen too many that were riveted on after painting and they don't look
so good.
Lynn
On Friday, January 20, 2006, at 05:30 PM, Gary Olson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gary Olson <ofd725@yahoo.com>
>
> I am starting to plan for the painting of my S7. I have read the
> Polyfiber manual completely and am wondering what kind of success
> everyone else has had using this method. What kind of process would
> you guys recomend to paint the aluminum and fiberglass? I am going to
> use a Polytone paint. How much is required to do the job?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary Olson
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your
> hands ASAP.
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald K. Stevens" <rkstevens@verizon.net>
Unfortunately, Jimmy Franklin was killed along with another pilot during an
airshow performance this past year.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron schick
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 5:45 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I have saved to my desktop the video of Jimmy Franklin doing aerobatics in
the Skystar Speedster. It is on lazair.com under kitfox videos. If anyone
has not seen this I think you will be amazed. I hope he is still doing these
graceful moves. Can anyone remember who the pilots were that had the mishap
up north last year? It seems that somewhere in Canada we lost a former
Kifox aerobatic pilot while performing in another aircraft.
I purchased the Kitfox vids that were available a while back and enjoy all
I can see. Soon I hope to post some of our coast as seen through the eyes
of a Kitfox. I hope it's not seen as heiracy, but lazair is the only place
to post, and view, video I think. Ron North Bend Oregon
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
That is a great video...I was at Osh when he did that show. Jimmy was killed
last year at an airshow in a collision.
Howard Firm
508 12th St. South
Virginia MN 55792
Message 27
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Don-
I bought an HVLP conversion gun through F&M Enterprises, who were the
Polyfiber people several years ago out in El Toro, CA. This gun uses a
regular air compressor but you regulate it down to 10 psi. It worked
beautifully for shooting my plane. It has a hopper/gravity feed and
holds about 20 oz. I bought it when I was living in California back in
about 2000. My gun is a model 38308 by Central Pneumatic, and was
distributed by Harbor Freight Tools. Cost was about $70. There are
probably others out there by now. The beauty of it is you use up every
drop of paint in the hopper, and if you run short pour in another ounce
and finish the job.
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 12:11 PM, Donald STEVENSON wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON
> <shericom@rogers.com>
>
> Hi Smokey, I've just read your post and since I will
> be ready to paint my M4 Speedster in the spring I have
> a question or two for you. What model is your kit, and
> what type of HLVP unit did you use, was it a complete
> system or just a gun using a standard air compressor.
> I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
> need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
> exists)
> Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
> Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
> --- Brett Walmsley <N93HJ@numail.org> wrote:
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Ron,
It was Jimmie doing the "Masters of Disasters" routine.. a simulation of a
WWII dog fight... with another airshow legend Bobby Younkin.. and Jim LeRoy
flying "Bulldog" Both Jimmie and Younkin died in a midair...
Have a Safe New Year !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of ron schick
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 3:45 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I have saved to my desktop the video of Jimmy Franklin doing aerobatics in
the Skystar Speedster. It is on lazair.com under kitfox videos. If anyone
has not seen this I think you will be amazed. I hope he is still doing these
graceful moves. Can anyone remember who the pilots were that had the mishap
up north last year? It seems that somewhere in Canada we lost a former
Kifox aerobatic pilot while performing in another aircraft.
I purchased the Kitfox vids that were available a while back and enjoy all
I can see. Soon I hope to post some of our coast as seen through the eyes
of a Kitfox. I hope it's not seen as heiracy, but lazair is the only place
to post, and view, video I think. Ron North Bend Oregon
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: paint hoses- water trap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Hi Ron-
On my HVLP conversion gun, I used 25 feet of hose to lower temperature
of compressed air, then through a regulator/filter set to 40 psi, then
15 feet of hose to gun which has an attached pressure regulator set to
10 psi...works great. Watch that humidity, Ron...Polyfiber tells me no
higher than 70%. I can't imagine Oregon at less than that...is it?
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 04:32 PM, ron schick wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> I have 50' hose to water trap which I leave barely hissing then 50'
> more to
> workshop then 25' to gun. The first 50' acts as a condensor for water
> separation. 50-60 psi at compressor gives good consistant gun
> pressure.
> HVLP may require a secondary tank near gun. Raining cats and dogs in
> Oregon, but painting anyway. Ron NB Or
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Who was looking for Purolator Fuel Filter?? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rich Williamson" <rwill1@adelphia.net>
http://mikes.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=3D1456&p_catid=3D133
Message 31
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| Subject: | Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I was afraid to hear the replys. We have indeed lost one of the greats.
When I pull the first loop in my speedster I will be poorly attempting his
style. Thanks for the info. Ron NB Or
do not archive
>From: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video
>Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 16:08:00 -0700
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
>
>Ron,
> It was Jimmie doing the "Masters of Disasters" routine.. a simulation of a
>WWII dog fight... with another airshow legend Bobby Younkin.. and Jim LeRoy
>flying "Bulldog" Both Jimmie and Younkin died in a midair...
>
>Have a Safe New Year !!
>John & Debra McBean
>www.sportplanellc.com
>"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of ron schick
>Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 3:45 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Jimmy Franklin aerobatic video
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> I have saved to my desktop the video of Jimmy Franklin doing aerobatics
>in
>the Skystar Speedster. It is on lazair.com under kitfox videos. If anyone
>has not seen this I think you will be amazed. I hope he is still doing
>these
>graceful moves. Can anyone remember who the pilots were that had the
>mishap
>up north last year? It seems that somewhere in Canada we lost a former
>Kifox aerobatic pilot while performing in another aircraft.
> I purchased the Kitfox vids that were available a while back and enjoy
>all
>I can see. Soon I hope to post some of our coast as seen through the eyes
>of a Kitfox. I hope it's not seen as heiracy, but lazair is the only place
>to post, and view, video I think. Ron North Bend Oregon
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Who was looking for Purolator Fuel Filter?? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Thanks for the address, Rich.
Lynn
do not archive
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 07:12 PM, Rich Williamson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rich Williamson"
> <rwill1@adelphia.net>
>
> http://mikes.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/
> st_prod.html?p_prodid=3D1456&p_catid=3D133
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: fabric temp/ paint |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <N93HJ@numail.org>
I went to 350 everywhere.
I also put stiffeners in trailing edge of wing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 2:03 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: fabric temp/ paint
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> What temps have been used to shrink the fabric? I could not bring myself
> to
> go 350 on the fuselage as it was starting to deform the longerons. now I
> am
> ready for final shrinking on the tail group and want it as tight as
> possible.
> I used almost one gallon of polybrush on fuselage, and almost as much
> polyspray. The white however covered well with the first coat and the
> second coat was a formality. barely over a half gallon. Is there any
> advantage to more color? I have HVLP but used my old bottom feeder for
> this
> as I have more experience with the older style. Not a technique for
> beginers, but on autos I pull the needle way back for lots of paint, stay
> close and move really fast. You can give another fast pass if needed or
> move away if it went on heavy. On single stage paints this allows
> completing the coat and tying in the wet edge at the starting point. May
> not be needed with polytone, but did it by habit. Perhaps this why it
> covered so well. Ron NB Or
>
>
>
Message 34
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <N93HJ@numail.org>
poly-tone
----- Original Message -----
From: "eccles" <eccles@Chartermi.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Paint
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "eccles" <eccles@chartermi.net>
>
> Hey guys
> jumping in with my two cents , what kind of paint are you spraying
> aerothane
> or polytone for the final coats?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 2:48 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Paint
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 09:11 AM 1/21/2006, you wrote:
>>I have a large compressor and am not sure if I only
>>need to purchase a HVLP gun (if such a thing even
>>exists)
>>Any comments you may have would be a great help. Don
>>Stevenson, Caledon Ontario Canada.
>
> I use the Husky HVLP gun and it seems to work well. However, if I had to
> do
> it all over again I'd buy a more expensive professional gun. The Husky is
> a
> pain to clean completely and I'm beginning to think cleaning it causes
> more
> wear and tear than use. I recently had to rebuild the internals because
> some had simply worn out from assembly/ disassembly. (In particular, the
> air cap started leaking; a bad thing for an air gun.) I'd like to find a
> gun that's made to be used and cleaned daily over a long period of time.
>
> gun. I installed both a water separator and then a dryer in line. I've
> never seen water in the separator so I think that was a waste of effort.
> Here in San Diego the dryer works hard. I bought a really large one, (the
> bowl is about 10" long and 4" diameter,) so I'd be able to do a lot of
> paint without having to dry the agent.
>
> 2) is a pressure regulator at the gun. I run 90 psi to the gun and then
> between 25 and 40 psi at the gun. I like this system a lot better than
> using the compressor's regulator since there are no line losses.
>
>
> Guy
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Lynn,
I have been uing the Purolater type glass filters since 1998 and like them.
It was by looking at the filter that I was able to confirm that the right
tank was sucked dry after a mis tightened fuel cap.
I am curious about the problems mentioned in the archives. Can you
elaborate a bit on what was mentioned. I have been on the list since about
1995 and don't remember anything that discouraged my use of them.
Thanks,
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Purolator fuel filters revisited
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> Thanks, Jim-
> Maybe I'll remove the glass filters a little later on, too, but for
> now, after having re-Kreemed the tanks, I want to see what's flowing
> down to the header tank. Just for the history of it, my 1994 IV is just
> now coming together after being owned by three previous owners, and I'm
> the first to get it past the "bare bones" stage. Therefore, the tanks
> were virgins, and Frank Miller said last year that they should be
> re-Kreemed, so I did that. So when the time came for the first splash
> of gas, I really needed to satisfy myself that the system was clean,
> hence the glass filters. I've always had good luck with them on
> automotive installations in the past, then I began reading the archives
> which revealed some folks having problems with them. Also, I don't have
> a gascolator, using the header tank for that purpose, and taking my gas
> sample from the bottom of that header tank. I ran a flow test and that
> revealed 8.5 gals. per hour gravity at the fuel inlet to the Jabiru
> fuel pump, so I'm well within the parameters for flow...way more than
> that if I turn on the aux. pump. If I do install another filter (before
> the aux. pump) it would be to catch anything that got by the header
> tank.
>
> Lynn
>
> On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 02:25 PM, James Shumaker wrote:
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker
>> <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Hi Lynn
>>
>> After years of flying with the glass purolator just before the
>> carbs, I got bored with seeing the same thing over and over. I
>> considered the screwed together glass case to be a weak point and so
>> now use a cheap STEEL automotive fuel filter. This filter is after
>> the gascolator screen and is changed annually.
>>
>> Remember, the more devices you have in line the more flow
>> restrictions.
>>
>> Jim Shumaker
>>
>>
>>
>> Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
>>
>> I just spent a few hours researching the Purolator glass in-line fuel
>> filter subject, and was wondering if there was any recent news
>> regarding this subject. I perused several Matronics lists and found
>> pros and cons on the subject. I have then in my fuel lines down to the
>> header tank, and have been taxiing my plane with no problems so far. I
>> would like to install another after the header tank, which is behind
>> the seat, but before the auxiliary fuel pump. It seems that locally the
>> Purolators are no longer available, nor do they show up on Purolators
>> website, and everyone tries to sell me a Mr. Gasket look-alike, but
>> they are of VERY poor quality compared to the Purolator product. So,
>> can anybody shed some new light on this subject? I'd really like to see
>> what the filter is trapping, and don't like the idea of those cheap
>> plastic automotive filters.
>>
>> Lynn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: paint hoses- water trap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
The Poly stuff is a little different than many paints in that humidity
speeds the drying. I have seen people wet the floor of the paint area on
a warm day and try and spray polytone with interesting results. It
looked like there were spider webs everywhere. It was drying before it
hit the plane and caused all sorts of a mess. Blush retarder can really
help.
Lynn Matteson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
>Hi Ron-
>On my HVLP conversion gun, I used 25 feet of hose to lower temperature
>of compressed air, then through a regulator/filter set to 40 psi, then
>15 feet of hose to gun which has an attached pressure regulator set to
>10 psi...works great. Watch that humidity, Ron...Polyfiber tells me no
>higher than 70%. I can't imagine Oregon at less than that...is it?
>
>Lynn
>
>On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 04:32 PM, ron schick wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>><roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>>
>>I have 50' hose to water trap which I leave barely hissing then 50'
>>more to
>>workshop then 25' to gun. The first 50' acts as a condensor for water
>>separation. 50-60 psi at compressor gives good consistant gun
>>pressure.
>>HVLP may require a secondary tank near gun. Raining cats and dogs in
>>Oregon, but painting anyway. Ron NB Or
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Yes. If you have a header tank there are called 1/8 pipe plugs.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clint
Bazzill
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 10:16 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Drain valves
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clint Bazzill"
--> <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
Can someone tell me the number for the wing tank drain valves. Thanks
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Lowell-
My original search today came up with a thread of about Oct 27, 2004,
right about the time that I first came on board here. It was in
relation to the glass fuel filters, and you were one of the
participants.
I just got done with another search, and came up with the possible
reason that I haven't been able to find the Purolator fuel filters any
more. I'll reprint what I found under the Zenith-list at matronics
dated March 24, 2005:
Start of quote:
Very recently, I referred to a search for a Purolator "See Through" Fuel
Filter in a posting.
This filter was eventually located and found to be a *Purolator Pro-Fuel
Filter*. In the Google perusal
of articles on this filter, I found that *there is a recall of this
filter series* because the
polylmer used for the housing in the suspect fuel filters may not be
compatible with ethanol
and other chemicals sometimes found in fuel systems. If the housing
leaks, you could have
a fire. In another listed instance, an aircraft builder's filter leaked
and it was on negative pressure, sucked air
and his engine quit on takeoff due to fuel starvation. Subsequent
replacement of this item was found to
be difficult as the replacement product was re-marked as Made in USA and
it was obviously made in Taiwan.
The latter didn't even exhibit the necessary quality found on the failed
original filter made in the US.
So much for the Purolator Company and their filters. I didn't want to
have misled anyone into using this
filter on their plane just because the basic concept embodied what I'd
like to have found in one..........
Pleased to have found this, but immensely disappointed that the trend of
once good products are
disappearing and being re-mfg as similiar, but inferior items from
offshore that could get you killed.
Please be aware and *do not use the Purolator Part Numbers 804, 805, 806
and NAPA
624804, 624805 and 624806 part numbers*.
End of quote.
So you see, Lowell, this is what got me to worrying again today, and
also explains why I haven't been able to find the Purolator filters
that I like so much. I bought a Mr. Gasket filter, and it was
junk...very inferior glass tube body, with rough edges where it
contacts the rubber seals, really poor imitation of the filter that
Purolator made, and it incorporated plastic end-nipples that screwed
into the end caps, rather than the one-piece, barbed end caps of the
original design, and it was made in China...(not that there's anything
wrong with that : ) )
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 09:40 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hi Lynn,
>
> I have been uing the Purolater type glass filters since 1998 and like
> them.
> It was by looking at the filter that I was able to confirm that the
> right
> tank was sucked dry after a mis tightened fuel cap.
>
> I am curious about the problems mentioned in the archives. Can you
> elaborate a bit on what was mentioned. I have been on the list since
> about
> 1995 and don't remember anything that discouraged my use of them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lowell
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: paint hoses- water trap |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
That's probably why my Polyfiber rep told me to not spray at 70%
humidity or over. I was lucky that most of my spraying was done at
about 60%, and at less than about 70 degrees...and at one point at 2
am, just to get that last coat on and done with!
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 10:02 PM, Alan & Linda Daniels wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels
> <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>
> The Poly stuff is a little different than many paints in that humidity
> speeds the drying. I have seen people wet the floor of the paint area
> on
> a warm day and try and spray polytone with interesting results. It
> looked like there were spider webs everywhere. It was drying before it
> hit the plane and caused all sorts of a mess. Blush retarder can really
> help.
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Purolator fuel filters revisited |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Lynn
I did it for the sames reasons. Now that I've washed all the Kream out a couple
of times there is nothing left to look at...so they have been removed.
Jim Shumaker
Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
Thanks, Jim-
Maybe I'll remove the glass filters a little later on, too, but for
now, after having re-Kreemed the tanks, I want to see what's flowing
down to the header tank. Just for the history of it, my 1994 IV is just
now coming together after being owned by three previous owners, and I'm
the first to get it past the "bare bones" stage. Therefore, the tanks
were virgins, and Frank Miller said last year that they should be
re-Kreemed, so I did that. So when the time came for the first splash
of gas, I really needed to satisfy myself that the system was clean,
hence the glass filters. I've always had good luck with them on
automotive installations in the past, then I began reading the archives
which revealed some folks having problems with them. Also, I don't have
a gascolator, using the header tank for that purpose, and taking my gas
sample from the bottom of that header tank. I ran a flow test and that
revealed 8.5 gals. per hour gravity at the fuel inlet to the Jabiru
fuel pump, so I'm well within the parameters for flow...way more than
that if I turn on the aux. pump. If I do install another filter (before
the aux. pump) it would be to catch anything that got by the header
tank.
Lynn
On Saturday, January 21, 2006, at 02:25 PM, James Shumaker wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker
>
>
> Hi Lynn
>
> After years of flying with the glass purolator just before the
> carbs, I got bored with seeing the same thing over and over. I
> considered the screwed together glass case to be a weak point and so
> now use a cheap STEEL automotive fuel filter. This filter is after
> the gascolator screen and is changed annually.
>
> Remember, the more devices you have in line the more flow
> restrictions.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>
> Lynn Matteson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
>
> I just spent a few hours researching the Purolator glass in-line fuel
> filter subject, and was wondering if there was any recent news
> regarding this subject. I perused several Matronics lists and found
> pros and cons on the subject. I have then in my fuel lines down to the
> header tank, and have been taxiing my plane with no problems so far. I
> would like to install another after the header tank, which is behind
> the seat, but before the auxiliary fuel pump. It seems that locally the
> Purolators are no longer available, nor do they show up on Purolators
> website, and everyone tries to sell me a Mr. Gasket look-alike, but
> they are of VERY poor quality compared to the Purolator product. So,
> can anybody shed some new light on this subject? I'd really like to see
> what the filter is trapping, and don't like the idea of those cheap
> plastic automotive filters.
>
> Lynn
>
>
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