Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 AM - Re: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing (Donald STEVENSON)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing (Ron Stevens)
3. 06:08 AM - Re: power for models 5, 6, 7 (morid@northland.lib.mi.us)
4. 06:13 AM - Re: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing (Dan Billingsley)
5. 07:03 AM - Re: demonstrated crosswind, new kitfox pilot (HOLZY@aol.com)
6. 08:00 AM - Re: Re: demonstrated crosswind, new kitfox pilot (Lynn Matteson)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: Re: demonstrated crosswind, new kitfox pilot (Ben Baltrusaitis)
8. 08:52 AM - Re: Hell's Canyon (Lowell Fitt)
9. 09:04 AM - Re: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing (Lowell Fitt)
10. 09:09 AM - Re: Elevator Bushings (Lowell Fitt)
11. 09:57 AM - Re: dorsal fin (Michael Gibbs)
12. 12:59 PM - Re: Re: dorsal fin (Dan Billingsley)
13. 12:59 PM - Safari V / NSI turbo FWF for sale (Rick Cooler)
14. 01:54 PM - Re: Safari V / NSI turbo FWF for sale (barge levy)
15. 01:56 PM - Re: Safari V / NSI turbo FWF for sale (barge levy)
16. 03:15 PM - Feedback Requested on Buying Used Kitfox A/C - Kitplanes Magazine Article (Cory Emberson)
17. 05:34 PM - Re: Elevator Bushings (Lynn Matteson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
Hi Steve, Sounds to me as if the holes in your rudder
post are much neater then mine, these were cut by the
original Pearson who started the build and did not or
could not do anything with any amount of finesse, I
have spent the last year re-doing a lot of his work
and will soon be ready to cover. My construction
manual has no detail on the holes, so I flying blind
so to speak. If you have anything you could send me
that would show how they should be done that would be
great!
Thanks for your help as well as others who replied.
Best regards, Don
Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
M4/1200-912 Speedster
--- Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski
> <szakreski@shaw.ca>
>
> No the holes are not covered, and yep... are
> definitely visible. But to me
> they add a high tech look to the rudder. I'm fairly
> picky, but they don't
> bother me.
>
> SteveZ
> Calgary (brother lives in Mono Mills!)
> Classic IV/NSIEA81/CAP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of ron schick
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:18 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post
> Fairing
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> Don mine are quite large and will be visable when
> the rudder is turned. Ron
>
> NB Or
>
> do not archive
>
> >From: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
> >To: Kitfox List <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post
> Fairing Date: Fri, 27 Jan
> >2006 16:10:32 -0500 (EST)
> >
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON
> <shericom@rogers.com>
> >
> >Hi everyone, I have a question about the fiberglass
> >fairing on the rudder post of my M4
> speedster.(under
> >construction) The construction manual says to cut
> >large enough holes in the fairing to get the
> attaching
> >bolts through the rudder tabs and tail post rod
> ends.
> >OK, I assume when the fabric is applied the holes
> need
> >to be cut out to provide access as stated above, My
> >question is, are these holes covered up in some way
> >after final assembly as they are quite large and
> will
> >certainly be visible? I hope the makes sense to
> >someone but not to me! Looking forward to some help
> on
> >this one, Thanks, Don.
> >
> >Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
> >M4/1200-912 Speedster
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Stevens" <rkstevens@verizon.net>
One neat thing that I saw somebody do to cover the unsightly rudder post
access holes is to fabricate some aluminum covers. Here's how it's done:
- Cut the access holes in the rudder post fairing as normal. I actually cut
them a little oversize so it's easier to get to the bolt & nut on the
inside.
- Then fabricate a small aluminum cover that goes over the outside of the
access hole. You'll need to cut a slot in the aluminum cover plate for the
rudder hinges. But the rudder hinge holes can be very small & neat as
compared to the rudder access holes in the fiberglass fairing. Use very
thin gauge aluminum that can be easily bent to the shape of the rudder
fairing.
- I used nutplates to attach the aluminum plates to the rudder post.
After the aluminum plates are painted, the access holes virtually disappear.
Makes for a very neat installation.
Ron
Series 6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald
STEVENSON
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 8:00 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
Hi Steve, Sounds to me as if the holes in your rudder
post are much neater then mine, these were cut by the
original Pearson who started the build and did not or
could not do anything with any amount of finesse, I
have spent the last year re-doing a lot of his work
and will soon be ready to cover. My construction
manual has no detail on the holes, so I flying blind
so to speak. If you have anything you could send me
that would show how they should be done that would be
great!
Thanks for your help as well as others who replied.
Best regards, Don
Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
M4/1200-912 Speedster
--- Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski
> <szakreski@shaw.ca>
>
> No the holes are not covered, and yep... are
> definitely visible. But to me
> they add a high tech look to the rudder. I'm fairly
> picky, but they don't
> bother me.
>
> SteveZ
> Calgary (brother lives in Mono Mills!)
> Classic IV/NSIEA81/CAP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of ron schick
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:18 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post
> Fairing
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> Don mine are quite large and will be visable when
> the rudder is turned. Ron
>
> NB Or
>
> do not archive
>
> >From: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
> >To: Kitfox List <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post
> Fairing Date: Fri, 27 Jan
> >2006 16:10:32 -0500 (EST)
> >
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON
> <shericom@rogers.com>
> >
> >Hi everyone, I have a question about the fiberglass
> >fairing on the rudder post of my M4
> speedster.(under
> >construction) The construction manual says to cut
> >large enough holes in the fairing to get the
> attaching
> >bolts through the rudder tabs and tail post rod
> ends.
> >OK, I assume when the fabric is applied the holes
> need
> >to be cut out to provide access as stated above, My
> >question is, are these holes covered up in some way
> >after final assembly as they are quite large and
> will
> >certainly be visible? I hope the makes sense to
> >someone but not to me! Looking forward to some help
> on
> >this one, Thanks, Don.
> >
> >Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
> >M4/1200-912 Speedster
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: power for models 5, 6, 7 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: morid@northland.lib.mi.us
Thanks Milt. I'm downstate on a friends computer and can't download photos.
Will be back in a few days.
Deke
Quoting Milt's Kitfox Stuff <flysly@erols.com>:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Milt's Kitfox Stuff" <flysly@erols.com>
>
> Deke,
>
> I'll have to break out the digital camera and take some pictures. Back when
> I did the work all I had was 35mm..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 6:36 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >
> > Do you have any photos you can put on Sportflight.com/uploads Milt? I'm
> > having trouble getting a visual on what you're describing.
> > Deke
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Milt's Kitfox Stuff" <flysly@erols.com>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 11:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
> >
> >
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Milt's Kitfox Stuff"
> > <flysly@erols.com>
> >>
> >> I used the Ellison TBI and made a plenum box with the air entry on the
> > right
> >> rear side of the "box" (which is actually shaped sort of like a tear drop
> >> with the pointy part coming out to the right of the oil resevoir). I
> >> used
> > a
> >> NACA vent on the side of the lower cowl to bring air in to a carb heat
> >> box
> >> mounted to the RH firewall footwell. More than one way to skin a cat,
> >> but
> >> it will still be a while before I can claim success...
> >>
> >> Milt
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: <tcfosser@aol.com>
> >> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 9:12 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: tcfosser@aol.com
> >> >
> >> > Deke, I am using the "straight" cowl for the 0-235. It has been a
> > while
> >> > but I believe iI ordered the firewall forward kit for the O-235 and
> >> > then
> >> > had Franklin make me a mount. But everything else such as the cowls,
> >> > firewall, etc fit very well with the Franklin. The carburater is about
> >> > the only thing I have had to engineer myself and again I have not run
> > the
> >> > engine yet but I ordered the Aero-vee carb from Sonex which is a fairly
> >> > simple and straightforward carb. I was planning on using the Ellison
> > carb
> >> > but it requires a straight run of airflow that I could not figure out a
> >> > way to make work. I will soon see if I made a good decision or not!
> >> >
> >> > Tim
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >> > Sent: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 16:35:24 -0500
> >> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
> > <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >> >
> >> > Will this work with the round cowl Tim? Which cowl are you using?
> >> > Deke
> >> >
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > From: <tcfosser@aol.com>
> >> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >> > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:04 PM
> >> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: tcfosser@aol.com
> >> >>
> >> >> I am installing a Franklin in my Model V. I have yet to start it but
> > am
> >> > getting close. So far it has been a perfect fit for the V. The guys
> >> > in
> >> > Fort Collins that sell the Franklin made up a mount for the Kitfox
> >> > along
> >> > with an exhaust and the quality has been top notch. So far I have not
> > had
> >> > any surprises mounting it but again, iI have yet to run it. Any
> > questions
> >> > about it let me know.
> >> >>
> >> >> Tim
> >> >>
> >> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> >> From: Rueb, Duane <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
> >> >> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >> >> Sent: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 08:05:49 -0800
> >> >> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane"
> > <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
> >> >>
> >> >> Kurt:
> >> >>
> >> >> I believe that the engines are built in Poland, and may include
> >> >> some improvements in quality over the old design, but I do not
> >> >> actually
> >> >> know this, but my point was to raise some awareness, and to get some
> >> >> discussion going. If they are junk, then that needs to be said, but I
> >> >> just found it to be odd that no discussion at all was going on about
> >> >> them, while people are busy adapting car engines, and working with
> >> >> liquid cooling systems. Have the magazines done any articles on them?
> >> >> As Lowell says, it could become an engineering project to do the
> >> >> installation, but some of the guys who are in the group could be up to
> >> >> it. It could even turn out that there are reasons that it would not
> >> >> be
> >> >> a good solution, but we wouldn't know this without some discussion and
> >> >> information transfer.
> >> >>
> >> >> Duane
> >> >>
> >> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> >> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> >> >> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kurt
> >> >> schrader
> >> >> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 10:16 PM
> >> >> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >> >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: power for models 5, 6, 7
> >> >>
> >> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> >> >> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
> >> >>
> >> >> I looked at Franklins back when I was trying to decide
> >> >> about my engine. They haven't gotten over the
> >> >> reputation of being 300 hr TBO engines, I guess. I
> >> >> thought someone on this list had one though. Any
> >> >> current experience out there?
> >> >>
> >> >> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
> >> >>
> >> >> --- "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu> wrote:
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Some of you are at the stage of needing to consider
> >> >> > what power
> >> >> > to use in your project, and are looking for a good
> >> >> > buy on the Rotax 912
> >> >> > series, but I have notice quite a lot of discussion
> >> >> > about the problems
> >> >> > associated with it's liquid cooling system, and
> >> >> > other issues.
> >> >> > Why not use the Franklin 125hp engine, which is
> >> >> > available at a
> >> >> > price that is hard to believe, because of it's
> >> >> > modest level,
> >> >> > comparatively ($6,900). They even are aware of our
> >> >> > Kitfoxes according
> >> >> > to their ads, so why aren't we seeing these
> >> >> > installations talked about
> >> >> > on our list, and articles in the magazines? I must
> >> >> > confess, I don't
> >> >> > understand why this engine isn't the main one guys
> >> >> > are talking about now
> >> >> > for airplanes in the class of the 5 thru 7 Kitfoxes.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Duane Rueb
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
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> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
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> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
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> >> >
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> >>
> >>
> >>
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> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
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> >
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>
This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
Message 4
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| Subject: | M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
Does anyone have a picture of this?
Dan
www.azshowersolutions.com/Kitfox1.html
Ron Stevens <rkstevens@verizon.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Stevens"
One neat thing that I saw somebody do to cover the unsightly rudder post
access holes is to fabricate some aluminum covers. Here's how it's done:
- Cut the access holes in the rudder post fairing as normal. I actually cut
them a little oversize so it's easier to get to the bolt & nut on the
inside.
- Then fabricate a small aluminum cover that goes over the outside of the
access hole. You'll need to cut a slot in the aluminum cover plate for the
rudder hinges. But the rudder hinge holes can be very small & neat as
compared to the rudder access holes in the fiberglass fairing. Use very
thin gauge aluminum that can be easily bent to the shape of the rudder
fairing.
- I used nutplates to attach the aluminum plates to the rudder post.
After the aluminum plates are painted, the access holes virtually disappear.
Makes for a very neat installation.
Ron
Series 6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald
STEVENSON
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 8:00 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON
Hi Steve, Sounds to me as if the holes in your rudder
post are much neater then mine, these were cut by the
original Pearson who started the build and did not or
could not do anything with any amount of finesse, I
have spent the last year re-doing a lot of his work
and will soon be ready to cover. My construction
manual has no detail on the holes, so I flying blind
so to speak. If you have anything you could send me
that would show how they should be done that would be
great!
Thanks for your help as well as others who replied.
Best regards, Don
Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
M4/1200-912 Speedster
--- Steve Zakreski wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski
>
>
> No the holes are not covered, and yep... are
> definitely visible. But to me
> they add a high tech look to the rudder. I'm fairly
> picky, but they don't
> bother me.
>
> SteveZ
> Calgary (brother lives in Mono Mills!)
> Classic IV/NSIEA81/CAP
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of ron schick
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:18 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post
> Fairing
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>
>
> Don mine are quite large and will be visable when
> the rudder is turned. Ron
>
> NB Or
>
> do not archive
>
> >From: Donald STEVENSON
> >To: Kitfox List
> >Subject: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post
> Fairing Date: Fri, 27 Jan
> >2006 16:10:32 -0500 (EST)
> >
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON
>
> >
> >Hi everyone, I have a question about the fiberglass
> >fairing on the rudder post of my M4
> speedster.(under
> >construction) The construction manual says to cut
> >large enough holes in the fairing to get the
> attaching
> >bolts through the rudder tabs and tail post rod
> ends.
> >OK, I assume when the fabric is applied the holes
> need
> >to be cut out to provide access as stated above, My
> >question is, are these holes covered up in some way
> >after final assembly as they are quite large and
> will
> >certainly be visible? I hope the makes sense to
> >someone but not to me! Looking forward to some help
> on
> >this one, Thanks, Don.
> >
> >Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
> >M4/1200-912 Speedster
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: demonstrated crosswind, new kitfox pilot |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: HOLZY@aol.com
Congratulations Lynn, on starting your tailwheel. I just finished mine last
spring & have about 20 or so hours on my Fox. If you haven't read the book
"Stick And Rudder" I suggest you pick it up immediately. It is amazing in its
ability to break down the basics of taildragger flying in ways that I've
never gotten from an instructor. The book is a marvel because it was written
in
1944 & is still 100% applicable. It's funny how they talk about these "new
fangled", "land-o-matic" tricycle gear airplanes like the ercoupe & tripacer.
Pay special attention to their explanations of angle of attack, rudder
coordination in flight, & wheel takeoffs & landings. I got the most out of
these. Remember that a wheel landing requires significant forward pressure on
the
stick since your speed is much higher than stall & any angle of attack at
that point will make you bounce. You must "hold" the airplane on the ground.
Read that section twice. "Stick and Rudder" can be found at most large
bookstores for around $20 or Ebay for around $10, but you will have to wait for
shipping.
Good luck,
Mike Holzberger
N104DG IV speedster
Milwaukee, WI
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: demonstrated crosswind, new kitfox pilot |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Thanks for the input, Mike. Yes, I've got Stick and Rudder. I started
reading it long before I started the transition from flying large
radio-controlled planes into full size (REAL) airplanes. Maybe I'd
better get it out and start reading again.
Lynn
On Saturday, January 28, 2006, at 10:01 AM, HOLZY@aol.com wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: HOLZY@aol.com
>
>
> Congratulations Lynn, on starting your tailwheel. I just finished mine
> last
> spring & have about 20 or so hours on my Fox. If you haven't read
> the book
> "Stick And Rudder" I suggest you pick it up immediately. It is
> amazing in its
> ability to break down the basics of taildragger flying in ways that
> I've
> never gotten from an instructor. The book is a marvel because it was
> written in
> 1944 & is still 100% applicable. It's funny how they talk about
> these "new
> fangled", "land-o-matic" tricycle gear airplanes like the ercoupe &
> tripacer.
> Pay special attention to their explanations of angle of attack,
> rudder
> coordination in flight, & wheel takeoffs & landings. I got the most
> out of
> these. Remember that a wheel landing requires significant forward
> pressure on the
> stick since your speed is much higher than stall & any angle of
> attack at
> that point will make you bounce. You must "hold" the airplane on the
> ground.
> Read that section twice. "Stick and Rudder" can be found at most
> large
> bookstores for around $20 or Ebay for around $10, but you will have
> to wait for
> shipping.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mike Holzberger
> N104DG IV speedster
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: demonstrated crosswind, new kitfox pilot |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ben Baltrusaitis" <ben@gmpexpress.net>
I read it through my local library for free.
Ben
On Saturday, January 28, 2006, at 10:01 AM, HOLZY@aol.com wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: HOLZY@aol.com
>
>
> Congratulations Lynn, on starting your tailwheel. I just finished mine
> last
> spring & have about 20 or so hours on my Fox. If you haven't read
> the book
> "Stick And Rudder" I suggest you pick it up immediately. It is
> amazing in its
> ability to break down the basics of taildragger flying in ways that
> I've
> never gotten from an instructor. The book is a marvel because it was
> written in
> 1944 & is still 100% applicable. It's funny how they talk about
> these "new
> fangled", "land-o-matic" tricycle gear airplanes like the ercoupe &
> tripacer.
> Pay special attention to their explanations of angle of attack,
> rudder
> coordination in flight, & wheel takeoffs & landings. I got the most
> out of
> these. Remember that a wheel landing requires significant forward
> pressure on the
> stick since your speed is much higher than stall & any angle of
> attack at
> that point will make you bounce. You must "hold" the airplane on the
> ground.
> Read that section twice. "Stick and Rudder" can be found at most
> large
> bookstores for around $20 or Ebay for around $10, but you will have
> to wait for
> shipping.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mike Holzberger
> N104DG IV speedster
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hell's Canyon |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Steve,
Our group flew Hells canyon a couple of years ago. We entered at the
southern end where the river feeds a series of very narrow reservoirs -
three I think. We flew fairly low to get the feeling of the canyon. As I
recall there were no really tight turns and the slope of the river is very
modest so the KF handled it quite well low. About 50 miles uip river we
made a tight 180 and landed at a small strip on the West side of the river -
very isolated. I can't speak for the Cammander. If you do bring the KF
let me know. We might be able to put together a group flight.
Also if you get to the gold country of California (Sacramento area) , we
have room in front of our house for either the Commander or the KF and a
spare bedroom.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Zakreski" <szakreski@shaw.ca>
Cc: "Steve Zakreski (szakreski@shaw.ca)" <sszakreski@trane.com>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Hell's Canyon
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Steve Zakreski <szakreski@shaw.ca>
>
> Ok you Caldwell/Boise/Nampa guys..
>
> Say a guy is planning a flight to see Hell's Canyon. What is the best
> route
> to fly. From where to where? What altitude is fun but still prudent. Any
> special radio procedures? I may be in my Commander 114 rather than the
> Kitfox (wife and brand new baby), and I want to keep things safe and
> comfortable for everyone. Looking at May/June.
>
> SteveZ
> Calgary
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
One thing I learned from the Lancair build - they use a lot of instant
glue - temporary positioning of parts for drilling etc. The bolt insertion
issue is a problem there as well, as the airplanes are quite fast and having
everything faired is a major issue. The glue comes in handy as you can glue
the bolt head to a strip of aluminum that is bent to allow for bolt
insertion in a tight space and after the bolt is in place snap the strip
off. The only consideration then becomes the clearance for the wrench.
And some will use a fine ratchet to minimize the need for a long throw.
One other trick they use in this area is to take several short lengths of
metal rod the same diameter as the bolt and taper one end. Then make a
tight 90 degree bend near the tapered end and use that in the hinge to
position everything first then one at a time remove that and insert the
bolt.
When I built, I bet I spent hours putting that part together.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 3:17 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> Don mine are quite large and will be visable when the rudder is turned.
> Ron
> NB Or
>
> do not archive
>
>>From: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
>>To: Kitfox List <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing Date: Fri, 27 Jan
>>2006 16:10:32 -0500 (EST)
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
>>
>>Hi everyone, I have a question about the fiberglass
>>fairing on the rudder post of my M4 speedster.(under
>>construction) The construction manual says to cut
>>large enough holes in the fairing to get the attaching
>>bolts through the rudder tabs and tail post rod ends.
>>OK, I assume when the fabric is applied the holes need
>>to be cut out to provide access as stated above, My
>>question is, are these holes covered up in some way
>>after final assembly as they are quite large and will
>>certainly be visible? I hope the makes sense to
>>someone but not to me! Looking forward to some help on
>>this one, Thanks, Don.
>>
>>Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
>>M4/1200-912 Speedster
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Bushings |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Ron, One more thought. The Nylon gave a very tight fit - almost having to
drive the clevis pin in. Some at the time reamed them for an easier fit. I
left mine tight and by the time I ewas flying there was no discernable
friction in the hinges.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Elevator Bushings
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks Lowell, and all, yes it is a IV speedster. Ron NB Ore
> do not archive
>
>
>>From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Elevator Bushings
>>Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 15:46:43 -0800
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>>Ron, I fyou are building a IV then the Nylon is the right thing for you.
>>
>>Lowell
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 9:09 AM
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: Elevator Bushings
>>
>>
>> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>> > <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>> >
>> > I recall mention of reaming for the elevator bushings, but my problem
>> > is
>> > there are none with my project. It appears that I could use 5/16"
>> > nylon
>> > tubing and a 3/16" bolt. Any Ideas? Ron NB Or
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to as a "dorsal fin,"
but on my Model IV-1200 Murle Williams welded a piece of 4130 tubing
from just behind the turtledeck to the base of the vertical
stabilizer. I usually refer to it as a dorsal fin. :-)
We found that this made applying the fuselage fabric easier in the
area at the base of the vertical tail. The increase in surface area
also slightly increases yaw stability and, in my opinion, improves
the aesthetics.
We just got through welding a similar piece onto the fuselage of my Series 6.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
Hey Mike,
Did you get your 6 back from powder-coating yet?
Dan B.
Mesa
Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs
I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to as a "dorsal fin,"
but on my Model IV-1200 Murle Williams welded a piece of 4130 tubing
from just behind the turtledeck to the base of the vertical
stabilizer. I usually refer to it as a dorsal fin. :-)
We found that this made applying the fuselage fabric easier in the
area at the base of the vertical tail. The increase in surface area
also slightly increases yaw stability and, in my opinion, improves
the aesthetics.
We just got through welding a similar piece onto the fuselage of my Series 6.
Mike G.
N728KF
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Safari V / NSI turbo FWF for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rick Cooler <kitfox.cooler@yahoo.com>
I am selling an incomplete kit (tailfeathers and
controls complete) with the following features:
Model V - powdercoated dark blue
Grove Spring gear
Quick build wing kit
Black cordura seat cushions
Instruments (VSI, Airspeed, ETC, Altimeter)
ELT
NSI EA81 Subaru Turbocharged
Zero time on engine
smooth cowling
VDO gauges
Selling price $29,500. I will sell fwf separately.
contact Rick Cooler (904) 269-3619 - Orange Park, FL
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Safari V / NSI turbo FWF for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: barge levy <b.levy@cox.net>
Hi Rick,
any pix and performance figures. Want to put it on amphibs.
Thanks,
Barge Levy
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Safari V / NSI turbo FWF for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: barge levy <b.levy@cox.net>
P.S.
any idea how much completed--what's left??
thanks,
Barge Levy
Message 16
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| Subject: | Feedback Requested on Buying Used Kitfox A/C - Kitplanes |
Magazine Article
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Cory Emberson <bootless@earthlink.net>
Hello everyone,
I'm gathering information for the first of a series of articles on
buying used homebuilt aircraft, and we're kicking it off with Kitfox. If
anyone has had experience in buying or selling a previously-owned
Kitfox, I would love to hear from you.
Some items I'm looking for: What are the absolute must-have/must-see
features when buying? How do you conduct the pre-buy inspection? What
must you look for specifically on a Kitfox versus any other aircraft?
And, how has the current state of Skystar affected your buying/selling
an aircraft with respect to maintenance, parts and other builder/pilot
support?
I look forward to hearing from you - please feel free to contact me
off-line at the following email address (formatted for anti-spam):
coryemberson (at) earthlink (dot) net
Thanks!
Cory Emberson
Contributing Editor
Kitplanes Magazine
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Bushings |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
On my IV I had to ream the powdercoat from inside the elevator hinges,
and the hor. stab. hinges. This was not possible using a hand reamer. I
built an 8 foot long reamer out of an 8-foot length of 1/4" diameter
steel rod, and silver-soldered a 5/16" reamer to it, end-to-end. I fed
the plain end of the steel rod through all the hinges, chucked the
plain end in a drill motor and pulled the reamer back through all the
hinges, applying cutting oil as it went. I did this on the elevator and
the hor. stab. I then cut the nylon bushing material to length, then
pressed them into a block of wood with a 5/16" hole in it, then reamed
the bushings with a 3/16" reamer. Reaming nylon is not like reaming
metal...you don't really ream, you just sort of push the nylon around.
But when installed into the hinges, and the 3/16" clevis pins are
installed, the fit will be snug...almost too snug, but that's what you
want. They will wear in. Incidentally, the heads of the clevis pins
that came with my kit were the exact same size (5/16") as the OD of the
bushings, meaning that the pins could work their way out taking the
bushings with them. I used a washer under the head of each clevis pin.
The OD of this washer must be at least larger than 5/16" (.3125"), but
small enough to clear the spar.
Lynn
On Saturday, January 28, 2006, at 12:08 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Ron, One more thought. The Nylon gave a very tight fit - almost
> having to
> drive the clevis pin in. Some at the time reamed them for an easier
> fit. I
> left mine tight and by the time I ewas flying there was no discernable
> friction in the hinges.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Elevator Bushings
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Thanks Lowell, and all, yes it is a IV speedster. Ron NB Ore
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>> From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Elevator Bushings
>>> Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 15:46:43 -0800
>>>
>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
>>> <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> Ron, I fyou are building a IV then the Nylon is the right thing for
>>> you.
>>>
>>> Lowell
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 9:09 AM
>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Elevator Bushings
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>>>> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> I recall mention of reaming for the elevator bushings, but my
>>>> problem
>>>> is
>>>> there are none with my project. It appears that I could use 5/16"
>>>> nylon
>>>> tubing and a 3/16" bolt. Any Ideas? Ron NB Or
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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