Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:54 AM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Ceashman@aol.com)
2. 06:02 AM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Dan Billingsley)
3. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane ()
4. 07:16 AM - Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice (Charles Boccaccio)
5. 09:17 AM - Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice (wingnut)
6. 10:25 AM - Re: Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice (Charles Boccaccio)
7. 11:07 AM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (D& D Syverson)
8. 11:27 AM - Re: nameplate location (kurt schrader)
9. 01:27 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Lynn Matteson)
10. 02:20 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Michel Verheughe)
11. 03:32 PM - Re: Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice (Clint Bazzill)
12. 04:03 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Alan & Linda Daniels)
13. 04:39 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (ron schick)
14. 05:59 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (flier)
15. 05:59 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane OFF TOPIC (flier)
16. 06:28 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane OFF TOPIC (Randy Daughenbaugh)
17. 07:48 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Alan & Linda Daniels)
18. 09:36 PM - off topic lutefisk (ron schick)
19. 09:45 PM - Rib sealing (ron schick)
20. 11:32 PM - flaperon attach (Alan & Linda Daniels)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
>>I need to preserve my ribs before covering and was wondering what has been
>>used by some who have gone before me.
Hello Ron.
It is important to varnish the wood bits to keep moisture and decay out.
When varnishing, brush is better than spray because of all the tight corners,
90 degree angles and things the spray will just bounce back. Slop lots on to
penetrate the wood but avoid flooding and runs too much. Take your time and
enjoy, it is a no brainer but requires patience to make sure all angles are
covered.
When dry use a soft rubber sanding block and sand the areas that fabric will
contact. This smoothes any dirt or any wood fibers that spring out. If it
feels rough, it will look rough under the fabric. When lightly sanding, you break
through. re-coat these areas.
Important!!! Use the epoxy varnish that was supplied with the kit (Polyfiber)
and do not use anything from the hardware store.
If you look at the Polyfiber instruction manual (I think) The boat Spar
varnishes or polyurethane varnishes will not hold up to MEK or the Polybrush that
you will use to stick the fabric down with. It will soften and start to break
down the so called Spar and polyurethane varnishes and the tensile and peel
strength will be much lower.
There are a number of people on this list you can get the Polyfiber Epoxy
varnish from, or from Aircraft Spruce.
Do not use anything but this stuff. One day when flying along and going
through some bouncy sky, you look across the lower wings and see the slight
billowing of the fabric and then you craft drops again. You will think to yourself
"man, am I glad I used the correct epoxy and I am glad I stitched the wings" Not
only that, rib stitching looks very cool.
Happy brushing. Eric.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
Hi Ron,
I had the same question a while back and I went to John McBean w/ the question.
John's direction made sense...He said if I want to be ensured there won't be
a problem in compatibility (chemically) with covering materials, I should go
with proven varnish. I was directed to use EV-400 Epoxy Varnish which is a two
part epoxy and comes in a kit you can get from Aircraft Spruce.
Hope that helps,
Dan B
Mesa, AZ
ron schick <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
I need to preserve my ribs befor covering and was wondering what has been
used by some who have gone before me. My manual says varnish in the
materials required section, but says polyurethane varnish in the chapter.
In the store I find Minwax polyurethane for indoor use and Minwax Helmsman
urethane for outdoor use. Neither say varnish anywhere and neither mention
spraying them. Do I need to find a bigger store? Can I spray these?
Sheesh! not a chemist Ron Nb Ore
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rkstevens@verizon.net>
It's ** important ** to use an epoxy varnish (2 part epoxy - as sold by PolyFiber
for example). Otherwise, the MEK in the fabric finishing steps will melt right
through "standard" varnishes. The Poly Fiber finishing systems specify
which varnishes are acceptable.
The best solution is to use an epoxy varnish - it's a little more expensive, but
WAY better.
Ron
>From: Tim Vader <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>Date: Thu Feb 02 23:33:04 CST 2006
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Tim Vader" <vadert@telusplanet.net>
>
>Ron
> I used a clear epoxy varnish. You are protecting the wood from moisture
>entering it. It may be prudent to use something sandable and lightly sand
>before covering so that the fabric adheres better to it. I think it is
>important to pay special attention to the trailing edge nooks and crannys of
>the ribs where moisture will gather. Your wings will have drain grommets
>where air (moist or otherwise) will enter and exit depending on weather
>conditions and leave moisture (humidity) inside the wing. The trailing edge
>(lowest point) is where that moisture will pool as the aircraft sits.
>
>Tim Vader
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 9:54 PM
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
>> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>>
>> I need to preserve my ribs befor covering and was wondering what has been
>> used by some who have gone before me. My manual says varnish in the
>> materials required section, but says polyurethane varnish in the chapter.
>> In the store I find Minwax polyurethane for indoor use and Minwax Helmsman
>> urethane for outdoor use. Neither say varnish anywhere and neither mention
>> spraying them. Do I need to find a bigger store? Can I spray these?
>> Sheesh! not a chemist Ron Nb Ore
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Charles Boccaccio <charlieboccaccio@yahoo.com>
Last week, up in the mountains in Mexico's Sierra Madre, the battery in my Kitfox
3 was dead after spending the night with the master on. Ambient temperature
was about 42 F, at 4,000 ft field elevation, so It was cool. I was alone and
had no way of getting a jump. I have a carb primer system that shoots a few drops
of gas into the carbs for start up. So I tied the tail to the tiedown, primed
the carbs, ignition on, throttle 1/4 inch open and gave the prop a quick
turn with my hand (I have experience with hand proping a J3), and on the first
try, the engine started.
My experience with cold starts is usually associated with fuel not getting to
the engine. After I installed the carburator primer, the engine starts always
after cranking the engine no more then 3 prop turns. This saves both battery
life and starter life.
Charlie
Herbert R Gottelt <gofalke@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt
According to Lockwood, the cranking speed for the 912 must be 300 RPM or above
in order to create a reliable spark for the engine to start.
Herb Gottelt M4-912UL
Mt. Prospect, IL
wingnut wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut"
Started fine this morning at 55F OAT. She was turning over much faster at 350RPM.
For now, I'm going to assume for now that the current battery just isn't up
to the task on cold days. Thanks for all the help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9086#9086
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
Hey! A primer system sounds like just the ticket. Even when things work right,
the 912 still needs alot of cranking before she will start. Can you tell me more
about this system? Is it an 'off the shelf' upgrade I can install on mine?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9390#9390
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Charles Boccaccio <charlieboccaccio@yahoo.com>
The system is made up of a conventional panel mounted primer pump fed off the main
fuel line. A tee coming off the primer pump will split the fuel lines that
lead to the two carbs, make a simple conection just under the air filter or just
before the carb's air intake(depending on how the filters are installed).
I did not use any sort of atomizer. It takes only ONE stroke to sufficiently
prime for a quick start. To try the system out, I first gave it 3 strokes on
the primer and I floaded the engine, but it started rather quickly anyway.
If you need pictures, I can take them for you and send them.
Charlie
wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut"
Hey! A primer system sounds like just the ticket. Even when things work right,
the 912 still needs alot of cranking before she will start. Can you tell me more
about this system? Is it an 'off the shelf' upgrade I can install on mine?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9390#9390
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: D& D Syverson <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
Ron,
This is pretty straightforward. If you do not want problems, the decision is
easy.
Use only products which are known to be compatible.
If you are using the polyfiber covering, this means use the polyfiber epoxy
primer for any metal or fiberglass, use the polyfiber epoxy varnish for any
wood, use the chemicals for the fabric recommended by the fabric manufacturer
- if polyfiber - use polytack, polybrush and polyspray. When you are ready
for a top coat, use polytone or aerothane.
I am not a polyfiber sales rep, I don't have any particular feelings that one
covering system is necessarily better than another; but I know you need to
stick to the items which are known to be compatible if you want to avoid
problems.
Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which is used as a solvent in a lot of Polyfiber's
products, will pretty much make lutefisk out of anything underneath which is
not compatible and that may very well include minwax.
Sincerely,
Dave S (Chemist and autobody guy + model 7 trigear)
On Thursday 02 February 2006 10:54 pm, ron schick wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> I need to preserve my ribs befor covering and was wondering what has been
> used by some who have gone before me. My manual says varnish in the
>
Do Not Archive
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | nameplate location |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I made a metal backing plate and attached it to the
tubing on the right side across from the left side
access panels. No problem getting it passed and easy
access to the back side if I need it.
I have seen Aeroncas with it mounted on the top of
the fuselage half way between the wing and tail. Very
easy to read there, but you need a backing plate
mounted to the tubing.
I would suggest not drilling any structural tubing. I
riveted it to the longeron that olds the fabric out on
the side and epoxied it to the lower structural tubing
on mine.
Kurt S. S-5/ NSI
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Dave-
lutefisk?
Lynn
do not archive
On Friday, February 3, 2006, at 01:57 PM, D& D Syverson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: D& D Syverson
> <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
> Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which is used as a solvent in a lot of Polyfiber's
> products, will pretty much make lutefisk out of anything underneath
> which is
> not compatible and that may very well include minwax.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Dave S (Chemist and autobody guy + model 7 trigear)
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Feb 3, 2006, at 10:25 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> lutefisk?
Lutefisk is Norwegian cod marinated in caustic soda. It becomes a jelly
mass that tastes nothing. Of course, you have to wash it a lot to
remove the caustic soda and it is served with bacon, beans and ... a
lot of aquavit, which is a strong alcohol made from potatoes.
Lutefisk is a traditional dish mostly eaten during Christmas time. Some
people nearly makes it a cult. It doesn't taste bad, it tastes ...
nothing.
Its origin is said to come from the big fire of the town of Bergen, a
few centuries ago. Bergen was the hanseatic center where ships came all
over Europe to buy stock-fish, the Norwegian dried cod. During the
fire, many warehouses on the quays were burnt down, with the fish still
inside. Later, poor people from the town, came to salvage what they
could from the ruins. But wood ashes and water was very basic and the
fish became jelly-like, pretty much the way it is done now with caustic
soda.
... now, aren't we off-topic? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
I have a primer that is extra. Clint
From: Charles Boccaccio <charlieboccaccio@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Cold starting a 912, maybe bad advice
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Charles Boccaccio
<charlieboccaccio@yahoo.com>
The system is made up of a conventional panel mounted primer pump fed off
the main fuel line. A tee coming off the primer pump will split the fuel
lines that lead to the two carbs, make a simple conection just under the air
filter or just before the carb's air intake(depending on how the filters are
installed).
I did not use any sort of atomizer. It takes only ONE stroke to
sufficiently prime for a quick start. To try the system out, I first gave
it 3 strokes on the primer and I floaded the engine, but it started rather
quickly anyway.
If you need pictures, I can take them for you and send them.
Charlie
wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut"
Hey! A primer system sounds like just the ticket. Even when things work
right, the 912 still needs alot of cranking before she will start. Can you
tell me more about this system? Is it an 'off the shelf' upgrade I can
install on mine?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9390#9390
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
I have sealed the wood with a good spray coat of polybrush. That way
everything is compatible. It seems to hold up better that the varnish.
Cost is about the same.
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Michel I aint eatin it or puttin it on my plane! Ron NB Or
do not archive
>From: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
>Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 23:17:59 +0100
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
>On Feb 3, 2006, at 10:25 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
> > lutefisk?
>
>Lutefisk is Norwegian cod marinated in caustic soda. It becomes a jelly
>mass that tastes nothing. Of course, you have to wash it a lot to
>remove the caustic soda and it is served with bacon, beans and ... a
>lot of aquavit, which is a strong alcohol made from potatoes.
>Lutefisk is a traditional dish mostly eaten during Christmas time. Some
>people nearly makes it a cult. It doesn't taste bad, it tastes ...
>nothing.
>
>Its origin is said to come from the big fire of the town of Bergen, a
>few centuries ago. Bergen was the hanseatic center where ships came all
>over Europe to buy stock-fish, the Norwegian dried cod. During the
>fire, many warehouses on the quays were burnt down, with the fish still
>inside. Later, poor people from the town, came to salvage what they
>could from the ruins. But wood ashes and water was very basic and the
>fish became jelly-like, pretty much the way it is done now with caustic
>soda.
>
>... now, aren't we off-topic? :-)
>
>Cheers,
>Michel
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Polybrush won't seal wood. Polybrush is a structural adhesive only for
fabric. Epoxy varnish is the only recommended / approved wood sealer for
the Stits Polyfiber process.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan & Linda
Daniels
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
I have sealed the wood with a good spray coat of polybrush. That way
everything is compatible. It seems to hold up better that the varnish.
Cost is about the same.
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane OFF TOPIC |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Funny you bring up lutefisk Michel. I heard a whole report just a week or
so ago on NPR as I was driving home. There are some traditional Norwegian
food stores that carry it here in the states! :
)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Feb 3, 2006, at 10:25 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> lutefisk?
Lutefisk is Norwegian cod marinated in caustic soda. It becomes a jelly
mass that tastes nothing. Of course, you have to wash it a lot to
remove the caustic soda and it is served with bacon, beans and ... a
lot of aquavit, which is a strong alcohol made from potatoes.
Lutefisk is a traditional dish mostly eaten during Christmas time. Some
people nearly makes it a cult. It doesn't taste bad, it tastes ...
nothing.
Its origin is said to come from the big fire of the town of Bergen, a
few centuries ago. Bergen was the hanseatic center where ships came all
over Europe to buy stock-fish, the Norwegian dried cod. During the
fire, many warehouses on the quays were burnt down, with the fish still
inside. Later, poor people from the town, came to salvage what they
could from the ruins. But wood ashes and water was very basic and the
fish became jelly-like, pretty much the way it is done now with caustic
soda.
... now, aren't we off-topic? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane OFF TOPIC |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Gee, I thought I might be the only one on the list who would understand the
hazards of turning airplane parts to lutefisk. I live in South Dakota which
is close enough to North Dakota that I have been to a few Lutefisk feasts.
(I think it is not about the lutefisk, but rather the other goodies!)
Where do you live Dave?
Randy - Black Hills of SoDak
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of flier
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 6:59 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane OFF
TOPIC
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
Funny you bring up lutefisk Michel. I heard a whole report just a week or
so ago on NPR as I was driving home. There are some traditional Norwegian
food stores that carry it here in the states! :
)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Feb 3, 2006, at 10:25 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> lutefisk?
Lutefisk is Norwegian cod marinated in caustic soda. It becomes a jelly
mass that tastes nothing. Of course, you have to wash it a lot to
remove the caustic soda and it is served with bacon, beans and ... a
lot of aquavit, which is a strong alcohol made from potatoes.
Lutefisk is a traditional dish mostly eaten during Christmas time. Some
people nearly makes it a cult. It doesn't taste bad, it tastes ...
nothing.
Its origin is said to come from the big fire of the town of Bergen, a
few centuries ago. Bergen was the hanseatic center where ships came all
over Europe to buy stock-fish, the Norwegian dried cod. During the
fire, many warehouses on the quays were burnt down, with the fish still
inside. Later, poor people from the town, came to salvage what they
could from the ruins. But wood ashes and water was very basic and the
fish became jelly-like, pretty much the way it is done now with caustic
soda.
... now, aren't we off-topic? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
It might be, but wood I treated with Polyfiber epoxy varnish when left
in a harsh environment for several years went to heck and the stuff
sprayed with polybrush stayed like new. What I did on my plane that was
destine for a harsh environment was brush epoxy varnish and then when
dry spray everything on the wing before covering with polybrush. It
sealed everything very well. Rivets and metal structural joints now can
not hold moisture as they are sealed. It is the same vinyl base as the
polytone paint.
flier wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Polybrush won't seal wood. Polybrush is a structural adhesive only for
>fabric. Epoxy varnish is the only recommended / approved wood sealer for
>the Stits Polyfiber process.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan & Linda
>Daniels
>Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 6:02 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
>
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>
>
>I have sealed the wood with a good spray coat of polybrush. That way
>everything is compatible. It seems to hold up better that the varnish.
>Cost is about the same.
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | off topic lutefisk |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
I apolagise for insulting your Norwegion food Michel. It seems you have
created a dish to recomend when my wife viisits your country in May. While
we are on this topic how would you ask for a large beer as I've heard it is
a hoot! And they say the English language is confusing.
Ron NB Or
do not archive
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Thanks for all of the feedback on the differant sealers. It seems that an
epoxy is the best method, and the polybrush would seal eveything. With
this info I think I will finish all of my structual building with my West
Epoxy, then brush a thin coat as far as the remainder will go on the wood.
Follow this with a good spray coat of polybrush and I'm In them.
Unfortunately in my preparation for covering I have found more damage done
by the former non-builder. My trailing edges ar now removed and I must
replace all of the aluminum backers for the flaperon attachment points,
epoxy the old rivet holes, and drill the new ones in a sraight line. Hope
to be covering in a week or two now.
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
The pre 7 brackets are drilled by the builder and the because of how
they are assembled a straight line of holes in the wing will cause
binding. It is important to get the brackets matched drilled to the wing
after all the wing angles are set and the wings are on. Even then you
will have to do some small bending of the attach brackets like small S
bends to tune it so it moves nice and easy. When all done painting use
motorcycle chain lube to lube the hinges. Any binding needs to be fixed
for good handling.
If you need to redrill the holes you need to replace the aluminum
reinforcing strips under the cap strip. A better way to go is with the
series 7 type reinforcer which is a cup type bracket that is attached to
the inside back and replaces the aluminum strips with a much more
substantial system. I think John McBean has them of can tell you were to
get them.
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|