Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:28 AM - Re: Rib sealing (Donald STEVENSON)
2. 10:28 AM - Re: flaperon attach (ron schick)
3. 10:28 AM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (flier)
4. 12:41 PM - Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane (Ceashman@aol.com)
5. 03:14 PM - Re: off topic lutefisk (Michel Verheughe)
6. 03:28 PM - Off list: Norway (Michel Verheughe)
7. 04:58 PM - N975EW for sale (Brian Peck)
8. 05:20 PM - N975EW for sale (Sid Hausding)
9. 05:28 PM - lutefisk (Sid Hausding)
10. 06:58 PM - Two Questions (Guy Buchanan)
11. 07:07 PM - Re: N975EW for sale (Lowell Fitt)
12. 08:02 PM - Re: Two Questions (wingsdown)
13. 09:42 PM - Model IV weight/Jabiru (Lynn Matteson)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Donald STEVENSON <shericom@rogers.com>
Ron, Your trailing edge aluminum must have been
installed by the same guy that did mine! I had to do
the exact same thing, I also added the 3/8 alum.
tubing to beef them up. Good luck, Don
Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada
M4/1200-912
--- ron schick <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks for all of the feedback on the differant
> sealers. It seems that an
> epoxy is the best method, and the polybrush would
> seal eveything. With
> this info I think I will finish all of my structual
> building with my West
> Epoxy, then brush a thin coat as far as the
> remainder will go on the wood.
> Follow this with a good spray coat of polybrush
> and I'm In them.
> Unfortunately in my preparation for covering I have
> found more damage done
> by the former non-builder. My trailing edges ar now
> removed and I must
> replace all of the aluminum backers for the flaperon
> attachment points,
> epoxy the old rivet holes, and drill the new ones in
> a sraight line. Hope
> to be covering in a week or two now.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Yes I need to replace the Aluminum reinforcements as they have been drilled
and will not be solid if redrilled nearby. My flaperon attachment holes
were not in a straight line by as much as a half of an inch. The flaperon
was in a bind just sitting there and it was only mounted to the lower
flaperon attachment hole! Thanks Ron NB Or
do not archive
>From: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: flaperon attach
>Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 00:27:58 -0700
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels
><aldaniels@fmtc.com>
>
>The pre 7 brackets are drilled by the builder and the because of how
>they are assembled a straight line of holes in the wing will cause
>binding. It is important to get the brackets matched drilled to the wing
>after all the wing angles are set and the wings are on. Even then you
>will have to do some small bending of the attach brackets like small S
>bends to tune it so it moves nice and easy. When all done painting use
>motorcycle chain lube to lube the hinges. Any binding needs to be fixed
>for good handling.
>If you need to redrill the holes you need to replace the aluminum
>reinforcing strips under the cap strip. A better way to go is with the
>series 7 type reinforcer which is a cup type bracket that is attached to
>the inside back and replaces the aluminum strips with a much more
>substantial system. I think John McBean has them of can tell you were to
>get them.
>
> >
> >
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 3
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| Subject: | Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
I misunderstood Alan. Sorry. The only issue with Polybrush is that it
doesn't adhere well to things other than fabric and itself. If sprayed
thick enough over hard surfaces you can peel it like a film from the
surface. My understanding is that it was formulated to fill weave, provide
bulk/level, and act as a base for the other coatings (MEK based) in the
system. Properly applied epoxy primer & epoxy varnish are the best ways to
go for weather proofing.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan & Linda
Daniels
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
It might be, but wood I treated with Polyfiber epoxy varnish when left
in a harsh environment for several years went to heck and the stuff
sprayed with polybrush stayed like new. What I did on my plane that was
destine for a harsh environment was brush epoxy varnish and then when
dry spray everything on the wing before covering with polybrush. It
sealed everything very well. Rivets and metal structural joints now can
not hold moisture as they are sealed. It is the same vinyl base as the
polytone paint.
flier wrote:
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Ribs: Varnish vs Urethane vs Polyurethane |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
-->It might be, but wood I treated with Polyfiber epoxy varnish when left
-->in a harsh environment for several years went to heck and the stuff
-->sprayed with polybrush stayed like new.
Hi Alan.
I think you are correct by saying an epoxy varnish when left in a harsh
environment goes to heck.
2 component epoxy paints do not like sunlight, ultra violet will break down
the paint structure. Normally you will start to notice powdering (chalky).
Then later the paint film will start to show fine cracks. After that water /
moisture creeps through the micro cracks and the wood absorbs this like a wick.
Not long before the epoxy varnish starts crumbling off the rotting wood.
But I think if the wood has adequate film thickness of epoxy and never left
exposed to sun, it should be a sound system.
Eric.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: off topic lutefisk |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Feb 4, 2006, at 6:33 AM, ron schick wrote:
> I apolagise for insulting your Norwegion food Michel.
Good Lord! No need to apologise, Ron! I am only amazed to see that
lutefisk is known in the US. As Randy points out, I believe the best
part of it is everything else, apart from the fish! :-)
Some other weird Norwegian specialities are:
Rakefisk, fresh-water fish left to virtually rot in a semi-controlled
environment.
Gamleost: A very moulded cheese that tastes ... mould, nothing else.
Smalahovet: Smoked sheep's head.
Bon appetit! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Off list: Norway |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Feb 4, 2006, at 6:33 AM, ron schick wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> I apolagise for insulting your Norwegion food Michel. It seems you
> have
> created a dish to recomend when my wife viisits your country in May.
> While
> we are on this topic how would you ask for a large beer as I've heard
> it is
> a hoot! And they say the English language is confusing.
> Ron NB Or
>
Hello again, Ron. Your wife probably won't be able to get lutefisk or
any of the other weird dishes I mentioned because they are only served
in special places and special time, like Christmas. But there are
plenty decent food in Norway ... er, like hamburgers and pizza! :-)
Beer is called "l" in Norwegian. (I couldn't write that on the
Matronic list because it doesn't accept non-English characters). A
large beer would then be: "En stor l." The letter "" is pronounced
like the French "eu" or maybe a bit like the "u" in the word: pub.
Draft beer always come as half liters, in Norway, so your beer will
always be kind of large.
But, as I have said before, virtually everyone speak English in our
country.
Cheers,
Michel
PS: I am originally from Belgium, which is considered THE beer country.
I don't fancy too much Norwegian beer. But, on a hot day, it's
refreshing.
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brian Peck <u2drvr@dslextreme.com>
Friends,
I am sad to report that I have decided to sell my beloved Kitfox. I
returned to Beale AFB a few months ago and now I'm back on the
deployment schedule. I'll be spending 5-6 months of the year on the
road with the U-2, so I will not be able to fly my airplane as much
as it deserves. The ad is now on Barnstormers.com and will be in
Trade-a-Plane soon. If you know of anyone interested, spread the
word. You can see it at my website at:
http://web.mac.com/reconman/iWeb/Site/N975EW.html
Thanks,
Brian Peck
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Wow, now that is a 40K airplane................too bad for ya Brian. Good luck
in the future in the service of our Country. God Speed and safe flying.
Former USMC 66-72
----------------------------------- do not archive
Brian Peck <u2drvr@ wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brian Peck
Friends,
I am sad to report that I have decided to sell my beloved Kitfox. I
returned to Beale AFB a few months ago and now I'm back on the
deployment schedule. I'll be spending 5-6 months of the year on the
road with the U-2, so I will not be able to fly my airplane as much
as it deserves. The ad is now on Barnstormers.com and will be in
Trade-a-Plane soon. If you know of anyone interested, spread the
word. You can see it at my website at:
http://web.mac.com/reconman/iWeb/Site/N975EW.html
Thanks,
Brian Peck
---------------------------------
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sid Hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
Most of the State of Minnesota, upper Wisconsin, along with the Upper Penninsula
of Michigan was settled by Scandinavian peoples and many festivals up there
celebrate with Lutefisk eating contests.........oh, UGH! But they do..............and
this is why this list is so much fun, because you guys stray off topic
now and then, but its always associated with flying, pilots and or families.
Rotten fish is for seagulls and foxes.............ugh, or for my dog to roll
in on walks along the beach.
Sid
---------------do not archive
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
On Feb 4, 2006, at 6:33 AM, ron schick wrote:
> I apolagise for insulting your Norwegion food Michel.
Good Lord! No need to apologise, Ron! I am only amazed to see that
lutefisk is known in the US. As Randy points out, I believe the best
part of it is everything else, apart from the fish! :-)
Some other weird Norwegian specialities are:
Rakefisk, fresh-water fish left to virtually rot in a semi-controlled
environment.
Gamleost: A very moulded cheese that tastes ... mould, nothing else.
Smalahovet: Smoked sheep's head.
Bon appetit! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
---------------------------------
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
1. I have some steel fittings to connect my bubble door gas springs to the
doors and frames. What kind of preparation is required to paint steel? It
appears part of the fitting is chromed. Is there a way to tell? (I welded
purchased ball end plates to some 4130 tube. The purchased plates are
shiny, but I'm not sure they're chromed.) If chromed, how do I prep for paint?
2. Does anyone have a source for painting in San Diego? I've been trying to
clear coat my instrument panel and center console with disastrous results.
(No clean room.) Would anyone care to recommend a paint shop for a small
clear-coat LP job?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: N975EW for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Brian,
I guess we're neighbors now - sort of. As you might recall, I did my first
flight out of Lincoln in 1998. I borrowed Bert Garrisson's hangar at the
time and he was also a U-2 pilot and I later found that he flew the last
operational SR-71 flight. He was one of the new guys after the brief shut
down of the program before the real shut down. His project was a Series V
also. I have since lost track of him.
Anyway, I learned yesterday ther there is a Kitox under construction there
and planned on flying up some good weather day and check the project out.
If you ever need a fix after the Serise V is gone, drop a note. I am
retired now and helping build a Lancair IV, but the owner understands when I
need to fly.
Nice Airplane. Hope to see you on the list from time to time.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Peck" <u2drvr@dslextreme.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 11:54 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: N975EW for sale
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Brian Peck <u2drvr@dslextreme.com>
>
> Friends,
>
> I am sad to report that I have decided to sell my beloved Kitfox. I
> returned to Beale AFB a few months ago and now I'm back on the
> deployment schedule. I'll be spending 5-6 months of the year on the
> road with the U-2, so I will not be able to fly my airplane as much
> as it deserves. The ad is now on Barnstormers.com and will be in
> Trade-a-Plane soon. If you know of anyone interested, spread the
> word. You can see it at my website at:
>
> http://web.mac.com/reconman/iWeb/Site/N975EW.html
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Peck
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Just make a cardboard box big enough to cover the panel between coats.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy
Buchanan
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 6:47 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Two Questions
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
1. I have some steel fittings to connect my bubble door gas springs to
the
doors and frames. What kind of preparation is required to paint steel?
It
appears part of the fitting is chromed. Is there a way to tell? (I
welded
purchased ball end plates to some 4130 tube. The purchased plates are
shiny, but I'm not sure they're chromed.) If chromed, how do I prep for
paint?
2. Does anyone have a source for painting in San Diego? I've been trying
to
clear coat my instrument panel and center console with disastrous
results.
(No clean room.) Would anyone care to recommend a paint shop for a small
clear-coat LP job?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Model IV weight/Jabiru |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Another "big day" for my IV...the weight check. Mine with 2200 Jabiru,
Sensenich wooden prop, and Grove gear came in at exactly 650 pounds,
and amazingly enough, exactly the weight that I guessed, earning me a
free lunch from my tech advisor, who was manning the scales.
Unfortunately for him, he guessed it would be higher. Where does this
weight fall in the "international competition for the word's lightest
Kitfox"? (no Kitfox Lites allowed to enter) : ) The weight was located
at 301 left wheel, 306 right wheel and 43 for the tail. Incidentally, I
had sent my Falcon turn coordinator off for repair/ replacement ( RF
noise), and a can of soup of the correct weight was residing in the
panel at the time. The means of weighing was a set of digital aircraft
scales, rented from a nearby FOB.
Lynn
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