Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Structural adhesive (Bradley M Webb)
2. 04:16 AM - Flaperon side to side play (Bradley M Webb)
3. 05:17 AM - Re: engine mount rubber pieces (Paul Peerenboom)
4. 07:31 AM - Re: Flaperon side to side play (Lowell Fitt)
5. 09:35 AM - Parts For Sale (RAY Gignac)
6. 09:58 AM - Re: Structural adhesive (Guy Buchanan)
7. 09:58 AM - Re: Recommended mods to my series 6 before covering? (Guy Buchanan)
8. 10:31 AM - Re: engine mount rubber pieces (Lou Landucci)
9. 11:09 AM - Re: Recommended mods to my series 6 before covering? (kurt schrader)
10. 12:07 PM - Re: nameplate location (ron schick)
11. 10:05 PM - Re: engine mount steel bushing (James Shumaker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Structural adhesive |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Also, what is "structural adhesive"? And where can I get this?
Thanks again
Bradley
KF2 N1836
Middle GA
Message 2
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| Subject: | Flaperon side to side play |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Hi Folks,
The flaperons on my Model 2 slide side to side about 1/8" in the bushings.
Is this normal? They've had the SB done with the rivets in the bushings, so
it's not the hangers or the bushings moving. I can't see any way to stop the
movement easily. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bradley
KF2 N1836
Middle GA
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: engine mount rubber pieces |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Peerenboom" <ppeerenbo@charter.net>
Remember to check the length on the bushings in the mounts. This puts more
squeeze on the rubber less shake.
Paul N102DG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: engine mount rubber pieces
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
>
> I am installing my 912 on my '95 model Classic IV.
> The engine mount rubber pieces are 11 years old now. The engine has never
> been hung on them but they are installed in the mount as per the manual.
> I imagine they would need to be replaced. Could someone stear me to a
> source to purchace new? Does ACS have them?
> Thanks
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon side to side play |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Bradley,
On the Mod IV at the most inboard hinge bracket there is an aluminum ring
that is riveted inboard of the bushing that reduces side play. This is at
the location of the attachment of the flaperon horn.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:11 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon side to side play
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> The flaperons on my Model 2 slide side to side about 1/8" in the bushings.
> Is this normal? They've had the SB done with the rivets in the bushings,
> so
> it's not the hangers or the bushings moving. I can't see any way to stop
> the
> movement easily. Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bradley
>
> KF2 N1836
>
> Middle GA
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RAY Gignac" <KITFOXPILOT@msn.com>
I have two sets of the original Douglas wheels, one with the brake rotors attached
new tires and tubes on both!! also have the plastic header tank with fittings
and (1) firewall portion engine mount for 912ul all for sale. Make me a
good offer. Changing wheels out to new set-up.
Ray
(301) 518-2262
KITFOXPILOT@MSN.COM<mailto:KITFOXPILOT@MSN.COM>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Structural adhesive |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 04:12 AM 2/9/2006, you wrote:
>Also, what is "structural adhesive"? And where can I get this?
Structural adhesive is simply high strength glue. It comes in a variety of
formulations, but generally has a shear strength of 2000 psi or greater,
and a peel strength of 20 pli or greater. They are called structural
because they are used as primary structure. There are a wide variety of
formulations, the most common being epoxy based, but there are also
acrylic, methacrylate, cyanoacrylate, and many others. They are made by a
variety of manufacturers, including Hysol and 3M for epoxy, and Plexus for
methacrylate. The various formulations are a result of the diversity of
cost/performance/application requirements.
For Kitfox assembly Aircraft Spruce is probably your most convenient
supplier; they sell the Hysol 9430 epoxy adhesive, which has very good
properties. You can probably get them locally, but it would be a specialty
supplier.
Do not confuse adhesive with resin. The latter can be used as a glue, but
has much poorer peel characteristics. Also avoid using the epoxies you get
in the little tubes at Home Depot. Close inspection will reveal tensile
strengths less than 2000 psi versus more than 5000 psi for the Hysol
product. (They do sell an acrylic adhesive with 4000 psi tensile, but it's
working time is about 15 seconds, too short for anything but very small tasks.)
Guy
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Recommended mods to my series 6 before covering? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> covering?
At 07:47 PM 2/8/2006, you wrote:
>I havent
>done any of the firewall forward installation or instrument panel
>work but it doesnt look like that will be any more difficult
>after the bird is covered, is that accurate?
I recommend building your ENTIRE AIRCRAFT before covering. (Obviously there
are a few things that can't be done before covering, but not many.) I am
finishing a IV that was beautifully covered and painted before completion,
and it's unnecessarily painful. Wouldn't it be nice to weld a tab here? It
would have been a great idea to put a conduit there. Too many regrets.
Model aircraft are regularly completed before covering, I think a Kitfox is
no different. It will also save a lot of wear and tear on the paint job,
not to mention the holes you'll punch when you drop a tool, etc. The only
concern is that you make allowances for fabric thickness when you finish
pieces. My aircraft had the wings meticulously aligned without fabric, and
the fuselage butt ribs fabricated to exactly match the wing butt ribs.
OOPS! Once the wings were covered, the wing butt ribs were now 3/32" larger
and the wings would no longer fit on the fuselage! (I had to go back and
route the fuselage butt ribs.)
Build the entire airplane. Completely disassemble. Paint. Re-assemble. It
sounds like more work, but it will save time in the long run.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 8
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| Subject: | engine mount rubber pieces |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lou Landucci" <lou@rkraney.com>
Good day:
I have a Kitfox 912S installation. How tight do I make the cassle
nuts that contain the rubber engine mounts?
Lou Landucci
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Peerenboom
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: engine mount rubber pieces
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Peerenboom" <ppeerenbo@charter.net>
Remember to check the length on the bushings in the mounts. This puts more
squeeze on the rubber less shake.
Paul N102DG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: engine mount rubber pieces
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
>
> I am installing my 912 on my '95 model Classic IV.
> The engine mount rubber pieces are 11 years old now. The engine has never
> been hung on them but they are installed in the mount as per the manual.
> I imagine they would need to be replaced. Could someone stear me to a
> source to purchace new? Does ACS have them?
> Thanks
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Recommended mods to my series 6 before covering? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Scooby,
That is a good list.
I origionally planned to do only 2 mods on mine, but
ended up with 18 and should have done more. Many of
mine were engine specific, but here are a few that you
might like that I did, or wish I did:
1. Rudder peddles reinforced to prevent breaking.
2. Blind nuts under rudder peddle mounts so you can
remove them from the top without removing the
firewall/heat shield and cutting your fabric.
3. Safety cables on the brake cylinders to prevent
them from extending and jamming the rudder peddles if
the "C" clip comes out.
4. Make sure you have stainless rudder
cables/fittings. I had to change mine out.
5. I changed the quarter windows to single piece
frames I made. No rough joints or rivets.
6. My baggage floor was too close to the elevator
push tube and would rub with weight on it. Add washer
clearance to the floor bottom, back mounts, or enlarge
the floor opening for the pushtube.
7. Blind nuts for baggage floor mounts.
8. Access panels below main tank output fittings so
you can remove the 90 degree fittings easily to
inspect and clean strainers.
9. Some method of cleaning up the verticle tail
transition so that it doesn't have such a hard break
to the tail access panels. Not aerodynamic as is. I
made a foam fairing for mine.
10. Gap seals for both the verticle and horizontal
rudder/elevator gaps. I made the rudder gap only 1/8"
with foam, but should have done the elevator the same
way. I like gap seals better than tape.
11. Stronger tail wheel mount. The welded on flat
plate at the tail that holds the 2 rear spring bolts
is a weak point. I made a bridge and enlarged the
bolts.
12. Better fuel tanks venting. I am tired of the
stains!
13. A quick drain from the header tank so I can
quickly drain the wings and header for maintenance or
wing fold.
14. Install John McB's under seat storage box for
additional space and seat strength.
15. Add more aluminum spreader tubes diagonally
between the tail frame tubes. The tail framing should
be kept as straight as possible, but fabric tension
can bow it in. Even a little bowing weakens the tail
strength. Watch your fabric temps just like for wing
trailing edges.
16. A few extra wires to the wing tips. If you break
a wire, switch to one that works for lights. Or add a
plastic tube you can push new wires thru and remove
the old wires. I have one spare wire per side.
Just some of what I could think of now Scobby. There
has to be others. Hope that helps.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- scooby harrington <scoobytrash@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I'm almost ready to cover now and I wanted to make
> sure that
> I've added all the mods that people have recommended
> over the years, here are the mods I have done:
>
> 1) reinforced horiz stab trim motor housing
> 2) added digital readout for trim position to
> replace coil spring/pull cable indicator
> 3) reinforced wing trailing edge with 3/8" tubing
> 4) reinforced both seats with strap slings to keep
> seats from contacting control tubes on hard landings
> 5) replace leakage prone hard plastic gas sighting
> tubes........
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: nameplate location |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Sorry Lynn I thought you were in Oregon. Can't help with FSDO there. Ron
NB Ore
do not archive
>From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: nameplate location
>Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 19:14:20 -0500
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> From Pontiac, Michigan...I'm in Grass Lake, MI.
>
>Lynn
>On Tuesday, February 7, 2006, at 02:40 PM, ron schick wrote:
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> > <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Good call Lynn. Where is your dar coming from?
> > Ron NB Ore
> > do not archive
> >
> >> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> >> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: nameplate location
> >> Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 07:11:29 -0500
> >>
> >> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> >>
> >> Thanks everybody for all the suggestions about the nameplate/data
> >> plate
> >> locations. I finally called my DAR-to-be and he wouldn't approve the
> >> tail access covers, so I made a backing plate and placed it behind the
> >> fabric, below and to the rear of the access cover on the left side,
> >> and
> >> far enough rearward to catch the vertical member that I had made to
> >> streamline the fin/rudder junction. This member is aluminum, and I
> >> caught two rivets in it, and the other two go through the fabric and
> >> the backing plate. Very sturdy, and no chance of buffeting, I'm pretty
> >> sure.
> >>
> >> Lynn
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: engine mount steel bushing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Yes, shortening the steel bushing tightens the engine to the frame. The new dimension
is 0.92".
Jim Shumaker
Brett Walmsley <n93hj@numail.org> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley"
I seem to recall a procedure to shorten the steeel bushing in the engine mount
to affectivly tighten the engine mount bushings more. Anyone else remember this?
Was it a service bulletin? or letter?.
Brett
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