---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 02/10/06: 6 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:49 AM - Firewall Edge Strip (Norm Beauchamp) 2. 12:31 PM - Re: which weld (AMuller589@aol.com) 3. 03:27 PM - Hinge Pin Staking (Greaves) 4. 04:04 PM - Re: Hinge Pin Staking (Vic Baker) 5. 05:39 PM - Re: Re: Hinge Pin Staking (Lowell Fitt) 6. 06:28 PM - Re: engine mount steel bushing (Brett Walmsley) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:55 AM PST US From: Norm Beauchamp Subject: Kitfox-List: Firewall Edge Strip --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Norm Beauchamp Sometime near the end of Dec. there was a small discussion about a firewall edge seal. I finally got around to ordering some samples from JC Whitney, and eventually ordering what is called Push-On Weatherstrip. In the catalog I have its on page 87, and the part number is 132565. It sells in only 25 ft. rolls at $29.99. I used 7 ft. With little adjustment it fit my firewall very well. If anyone is interested I have 18 ft. left and will sell it all for $20. plus shipping. Or I'll sell 9 ft. for $10 bucks plus shipping. I'm also waiting for a shipment of a seal that I think will fit onto the top edge of the cowl that fits against the windscreen. In the same catalog and on the same page its part number 812914. Just for drill I tried the burn test on the original seal and the JCW seal. They both burn. Later. Norm. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:31:11 PM PST US From: AMuller589@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: which weld --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com Your questions lead me to believe you need to look at the welding techniques and methods of splicing specified in aircraft circular AC 65-15A. This is the AIRFRAME AND POWERPLANT MECHANICS AIRFRAME HANDBOOK, esp pages 276, and figures 6-38, 6-39, 6-40, 6-41 et al for spice joints and pages 269 plus for welding techniques. There have also been several articles on the advantages and annealing techniques for the TIG, MIG, and gas welding of aircraft tubing in Sport Aviation and Kitplanes.. Basically what these said AS I RECALL Generally they recommend post weld annealing with gas for welds made using gas and TIG since the heat is less concentrated than MIG. Even the articles in Kitplane and Sport Aviation have some arguments pro and con on the annealing process so I would anneal with gas if it were me. According to AC-65 you should use internal splicing if you need to avoid bulges where surface smoothness is a factor (i.e. under fabric).AC 65-15 and Kitplane and Sport Aviation address all welding techniques. WORD OF MOUTH has it that NASA recently adapted a welding policy that requires "coat hangar" type welding rod with more generous beads than before for aircraft and spacecraft tubing, and post weld annealing. Annealing is much higher temperatures than you seem to think. Stress relief as quoted from the LINCOLN welding manual is"The stress relief range for most carbon steel is 1100 to 1200 deg F and the soaking time is usually one hour per inch of thickness.", These are not difficult procedures and are probably what you intended but should relieve your mind of all doubts. Splicing Tubing by Inner Sleeve Method should be used If the damage to a structural tube is such that a partial replacement of the tube is necessary, the inner sleeve splice shown in figure 6-41 is recommended, especially where a smooth tube surface is desired. A diagonal cut is made to remove the damaged portion of the tube, and the burrs are removed from the edges of the cut by filing or similar means. A replacement steel tube of the same material and diameter, and at least the same wall thickness is then cut to match the length of the removed portion of the damaged tube. At each end of the replace. ment tube a l/s-in. gap should be allowed from the diagonal cuts to the stubs of the original tube. A length of steel tubing should next be selecteddiameter equal to the inside diameter of the damaged tube. This inner tube material should be fitted snugly within the original tube. Cut two sections of tubing from this inner-sleeve tube material, each of such a length that the ends of the inner sleeve will be a minimum distance of one and one-half tube diameters from the near-t end of the diagonal cut. If the inner sleeve fits very tightly in the replacement tube, the sleeve can be chilled with dry ice or in cold water. If this procedure is inadequate, the diameter of the sleeve can be polished down with emery cloth. The inner sleeve can be welded to the tube stubs through the +&in. gap, forming a weld bead over the gap. of at least the same wall thickness and of an outside ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:27:49 PM PST US From: "Greaves" Subject: Kitfox-List: Hinge Pin Staking --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Greaves" What the best method for staking the pins in my elevator trim hinges? ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:04:50 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Hinge Pin Staking From: "Vic Baker" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Baker" Just don't do what my neighbor advised me to do and try to stake them with a punch. I made a mess of mine. Ed Downs of Skystar advised just making a 90 degree bend at each hinge pin end. Maybe John McBean will give us an input here. -------- Vic Baker Series 7 Carson City, Nevada Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11333#11333 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:39:02 PM PST US From: "Lowell Fitt" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Hinge Pin Staking --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" Assuming you are not going to remove the pins for inspections etc. A recommended method at Lancair is to cut the pin a little short. Insert it so it is short on both ends in the hinge and then just tap the end a bit with a hammer to creat a crimp. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vic Baker" Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 4:02 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Hinge Pin Staking > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Baker" > > Just don't do what my neighbor advised me to do and try to stake them with > a punch. I made a mess of mine. Ed Downs of Skystar advised just making > a 90 degree bend at each hinge pin end. Maybe John McBean will give us an > input here. > > -------- > Vic Baker > Series 7 > Carson City, Nevada > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11333#11333 > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:28:29 PM PST US From: "Brett Walmsley" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: engine mount steel bushing --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" Thanks Jim. I will do that. ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Shumaker" Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 1:00 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: engine mount steel bushing > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: James Shumaker > > > Yes, shortening the steel bushing tightens the engine to the frame. The > new dimension is 0.92". > > Jim Shumaker > > Brett Walmsley wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" > > I seem to recall a procedure to shorten the steeel bushing in the engine > mount to affectivly tighten the engine mount bushings more. Anyone else > remember this? Was it a service bulletin? or letter?. > Brett > > >