Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:14 AM - First Flight (Thomas White)
2. 03:30 AM - Re: engine mount rubber pieces (Brett Walmsley)
3. 06:04 AM - Re: First Flight (Donna and Roger McConnell)
4. 07:06 AM - WELDING 4130 (Mark.Summers@lwbref.com)
5. 07:35 AM - Torque ?s (Rich Williamson)
6. 07:41 AM - Re: WELDING 4130 (Eric)
7. 08:12 AM - aft CG service letter (Mark.Summers@lwbref.com)
8. 08:41 AM - Re: WELDING 4130 (Don Pearsall)
9. 09:19 AM - Re: aft CG service letter (Lynn Matteson)
10. 09:48 AM - Re: Torque ?s (Donna and Roger McConnell)
11. 02:50 PM - Re: WELDING 4130 (flier)
12. 04:26 PM - Re: First Flight (Bradley M Webb)
13. 04:32 PM - Re: VOR Antenna (Jim Burke)
14. 05:14 PM - Re: WELDING 4130 (Mark.Summers@lwbref.com)
15. 05:14 PM - Re: aft CG service letter (Mark.Summers@lwbref.com)
16. 05:20 PM - Re: VOR Antenna (Dee Young)
17. 05:35 PM - Re: VOR Antenna (Jim Burke)
18. 06:00 PM - Re: First Flight (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
19. 06:47 PM - Re: First Flight (Don Pearsall)
20. 10:34 PM - Re: VOR Antenna (wingsdown)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas White <twhitepa@magiclink.com>
Just wanted to share my first flight with the list. What a blast! I bought
this Model II 582LC in October, and after about 4 months of repairs due to
neglect, she is flying again. Did a few high speed runs, felt good, and
before I knew it I was airborne! What a pleasure to fly, even though I only
took one run around the patch. Can't wait to get out again and really get
to see what this craft is capable of. Thanks to all the help I've gotten
from the list.
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: engine mount rubber pieces |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
190 inch pounds
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou Landucci" <lou@rkraney.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 1:29 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: engine mount rubber pieces
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lou Landucci" <lou@rkraney.com>
>
> Good day:
> I have a Kitfox 912S installation. How tight do I make the cassle
> nuts that contain the rubber engine mounts?
>
> Lou Landucci
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
> Peerenboom
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:14 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: engine mount rubber pieces
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Peerenboom"
> <ppeerenbo@charter.net>
>
> Remember to check the length on the bushings in the mounts. This puts more
> squeeze on the rubber less shake.
>
> Paul N102DG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 6:34 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: engine mount rubber pieces
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
>>
>> I am installing my 912 on my '95 model Classic IV.
>> The engine mount rubber pieces are 11 years old now. The engine has never
>> been hung on them but they are installed in the mount as per the manual.
>> I imagine they would need to be replaced. Could someone stear me to a
>> source to purchace new? Does ACS have them?
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Congrats' Thomas
I agree totally. The Kitfox is a blast to fly. I've got about an
hours time on my 7...been installing a spinner and really waiting for some
decent flying weather. Mostly been too cold and I don't have a heater
installed yet. Enjoy your plane; I'm sure it only gets better the more you
fly it.
Roger Mac
N619RM/912s (registered and airworthy)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas White
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 2:13 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas White <twhitepa@magiclink.com>
Just wanted to share my first flight with the list. What a blast! I bought
this Model II 582LC in October, and after about 4 months of repairs due to
neglect, she is flying again. Did a few high speed runs, felt good, and
before I knew it I was airborne! What a pleasure to fly, even though I only
took one run around the patch. Can't wait to get out again and really get
to see what this craft is capable of. Thanks to all the help I've gotten
from the list.
Do not archive
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
----- Forwarded by Mark Summers/LWB/WRE/Lhoist on 02/12/2006 09:01 AM -----
<dave@cfisher.com
> To: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
cc:
02/10/2006 06:40 Subject: WELDING 4130
PM
I received this from another reader that has been giving some experienced
advice just wanted to get another opinion and idea on the posting about
welding.
Mark ,
We spoke about welding.............
ANNEALING WILL SOFTEN YOUR METAL AND YOU ONLY WANT TO NORMALIZ to 800 to
900F .
I have been welding gas tig and mig for over 30 years ...........
Good luck,
Dave
Annealing increases ductility and removes stresses from formed or part
formed material, producing a large-grained structure, making the metal less
tough and easier to machine or cold-form. The process involves heating to a
suitable temperature, soaking at that temperature to create a stable
structure, then allowing the metal to cool very slowly.
The heat treatment condition is often identified by the letter 'A'
[annealed] or 'N' [normalised] after the alloy designation [4130 N] or a
code like '4130 QT900F' which indicates that the alloy has been quenched
and
then tempered at 900 F. Scratchbuilders use 4130 in the normalised
condition.
If it is necessary to recover full normalised strength in the joint areas
affected by welding members into an airframe, 4130 N tube structures have
to
be re-normalised. This is done by re-heating those heat affected zones,
with
an oxy-acetylene torch for example, to a temperature around 800/850 C and
then allowing the metal to cool slowly. The process must be carried out in
still air at normal temperature and some jigging may be required to prevent
distortion in the frame. Re-normalising will also relieve the heat
expansion/contraction stresses induced in the tubing near the weld. Pure
stress relieving, without re-normalising, occurs at temperatures around
650/700 C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: looking for tailwheel spring
>
> Thanks for the info, I am inner splicing the 1/2" with 7/16" .049 tube
and
> outer splicing the 3/8" cross members with 7/16" .028 tube. Leaving 1/8"
> gap between the 30 degree cuts in the 1/2 tubes to weld and also 1/4"
> rosettes on each side of the splices. The inner splices are 4" long. what
> do you think any suggestions I am definitely open to all ideas before I
> weld. Thanks
> Mark
>
>
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rich Williamson" <rwill1@adelphia.net>
Group,
Installing spinner on the KF... Have a 3blade wooden GSC prop - I can find the
best torque specs for the prop 75-100in lbs - but having a hard time pinning down
the Hub Flange torque specs??? Anyone know?
Also, would regular AN4 bolts with Head drilled provide the same strength and purpose
than regular "Prop Bolts" ? Believe they are all Grade 8 regardless.. so
if right size, does it matter ??
thanks
Richard
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: WELDING 4130 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Eric" <iworonko@cox.net>
Great info but how do you tell at what temperature the material is at when
you are heating it with a torch?
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: WELDING 4130
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
>
>
> ----- Forwarded by Mark Summers/LWB/WRE/Lhoist on 02/12/2006 09:01
> AM -----
>
> <dave@cfisher.com
> > To:
> <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
> cc:
> 02/10/2006 06:40 Subject: WELDING 4130
> PM
>
>
> I received this from another reader that has been giving some experienced
> advice just wanted to get another opinion and idea on the posting about
> welding.
> Mark ,
>
> We spoke about welding.............
>
>
> ANNEALING WILL SOFTEN YOUR METAL AND YOU ONLY WANT TO NORMALIZ to 800 to
> 900F .
>
>
> I have been welding gas tig and mig for over 30 years ...........
>
>
> Good luck,
> Dave
>
> Annealing increases ductility and removes stresses from formed or part
> formed material, producing a large-grained structure, making the metal
> less
>
> tough and easier to machine or cold-form. The process involves heating to
> a
>
> suitable temperature, soaking at that temperature to create a stable
> structure, then allowing the metal to cool very slowly.
>
> The heat treatment condition is often identified by the letter 'A'
> [annealed] or 'N' [normalised] after the alloy designation [4130 N] or a
> code like '4130 QT900F' which indicates that the alloy has been quenched
> and
> then tempered at 900 F. Scratchbuilders use 4130 in the normalised
> condition.
>
> If it is necessary to recover full normalised strength in the joint areas
> affected by welding members into an airframe, 4130 N tube structures have
> to
> be re-normalised. This is done by re-heating those heat affected zones,
> with
> an oxy-acetylene torch for example, to a temperature around 800/850 C and
> then allowing the metal to cool slowly. The process must be carried out in
> still air at normal temperature and some jigging may be required to
> prevent
>
> distortion in the frame. Re-normalising will also relieve the heat
> expansion/contraction stresses induced in the tubing near the weld. Pure
> stress relieving, without re-normalising, occurs at temperatures around
> 650/700 C.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
> To: <dave@cfisher.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:02 AM
> Subject: Re: looking for tailwheel spring
>
>
>>
>> Thanks for the info, I am inner splicing the 1/2" with 7/16" .049 tube
> and
>> outer splicing the 3/8" cross members with 7/16" .028 tube. Leaving 1/8"
>> gap between the 30 degree cuts in the 1/2 tubes to weld and also 1/4"
>> rosettes on each side of the splices. The inner splices are 4" long. what
>> do you think any suggestions I am definitely open to all ideas before I
>> weld. Thanks
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | aft CG service letter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
I read in some of the service letters/bulletins that the model 4 KF aft CG
limit had been expanded to 16" from 14.78" [I think]. From what I have read
aft CG was 28% of mean aerodynamic chord[ 51" on kitfox 2]. I guess what I
am asking does anyone know whether this applies to kitfox 1,2,3 etc? I
think mac is the wing measurement leading to trailing edge? Does the
Kitfox 4 have a different wing measurement than a kf2. Thanks Mark
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Eric, I was just looking at a temperature chart from my book "How to weld
damn near anything", and the annealing temperature for steel is 1700f, with
a color of orange. Here are the rest of the colors:
1000f - Faint red - Nitriding
1100f - Blood Red - Stress Relieving
1300- 1500f - Cherry Red - Atomic Changes
1600f - Salmon - Normalizing
1700f - Orange - Annealing
2000f - Bright Yellow Magnetism lost
2100-2500f - White - Forging
2600-2900f - Steel Melts
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: WELDING 4130
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Eric" <iworonko@cox.net>
Great info but how do you tell at what temperature the material is at when
you are heating it with a torch?
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: WELDING 4130
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
>
>
> ----- Forwarded by Mark Summers/LWB/WRE/Lhoist on 02/12/2006 09:01
> AM -----
>
> <dave@cfisher.com
> > To:
> <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
> cc:
> 02/10/2006 06:40 Subject: WELDING 4130
> PM
>
>
> I received this from another reader that has been giving some experienced
> advice just wanted to get another opinion and idea on the posting about
> welding.
> Mark ,
>
> We spoke about welding.............
>
>
> ANNEALING WILL SOFTEN YOUR METAL AND YOU ONLY WANT TO NORMALIZ to 800 to
> 900F .
>
>
> I have been welding gas tig and mig for over 30 years ...........
>
>
> Good luck,
> Dave
>
> Annealing increases ductility and removes stresses from formed or part
> formed material, producing a large-grained structure, making the metal
> less
>
> tough and easier to machine or cold-form. The process involves heating to
> a
>
> suitable temperature, soaking at that temperature to create a stable
> structure, then allowing the metal to cool very slowly.
>
> The heat treatment condition is often identified by the letter 'A'
> [annealed] or 'N' [normalised] after the alloy designation [4130 N] or a
> code like '4130 QT900F' which indicates that the alloy has been quenched
> and
> then tempered at 900 F. Scratchbuilders use 4130 in the normalised
> condition.
>
> If it is necessary to recover full normalised strength in the joint areas
> affected by welding members into an airframe, 4130 N tube structures have
> to
> be re-normalised. This is done by re-heating those heat affected zones,
> with
> an oxy-acetylene torch for example, to a temperature around 800/850 C and
> then allowing the metal to cool slowly. The process must be carried out in
> still air at normal temperature and some jigging may be required to
> prevent
>
> distortion in the frame. Re-normalising will also relieve the heat
> expansion/contraction stresses induced in the tubing near the weld. Pure
> stress relieving, without re-normalising, occurs at temperatures around
> 650/700 C.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
> To: <dave@cfisher.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:02 AM
> Subject: Re: looking for tailwheel spring
>
>
>>
>> Thanks for the info, I am inner splicing the 1/2" with 7/16" .049 tube
> and
>> outer splicing the 3/8" cross members with 7/16" .028 tube. Leaving 1/8"
>> gap between the 30 degree cuts in the 1/2 tubes to weld and also 1/4"
>> rosettes on each side of the splices. The inner splices are 4" long. what
>> do you think any suggestions I am definitely open to all ideas before I
>> weld. Thanks
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: aft CG service letter |
Cc: jdmcbean <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
This probably won't answer your question, Mark, but let me drop a
couple of numbers that I have come across in building my IV. The
original manual states that the MAC is 51.5" and the later manual,
revised in '03, shows the MAC at 51.1" This could be due to the change
of flaperon hinge brackets, between when my IV was built in '94, and
when the revised manual was done in '03. Does anybody know for
sure...John McBean, are you listening? And of course the MAC is
apparently measured from the leading edge to the trailing edge of the
flaperon, at least it seems that way according to what I can figure out
right now (with my wings folded).
Lynn
On Sunday, February 12, 2006, at 11:09 AM, Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
>
> I read in some of the service letters/bulletins that the model 4 KF
> aft CG
> limit had been expanded to 16" from 14.78" [I think]. From what I have
> read
> aft CG was 28% of mean aerodynamic chord[ 51" on kitfox 2]. I guess
> what I
> am asking does anyone know whether this applies to kitfox 1,2,3 etc? I
> think mac is the wing measurement leading to trailing edge? Does the
> Kitfox 4 have a different wing measurement than a kf2. Thanks Mark
>
>
Message 10
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Rich, I believe the instructions say 140 in lbs. on the Hub Flange. However
I used AN5 bolts.
Roger Mac
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rich Williamson
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:33 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Torque ?s
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rich Williamson" <rwill1@adelphia.net>
Group,
Installing spinner on the KF... Have a 3blade wooden GSC prop - I can find
the best torque specs for the prop 75-100in lbs - but having a hard time
pinning down the Hub Flange torque specs??? Anyone know?
Also, would regular AN4 bolts with Head drilled provide the same strength
and purpose than regular "Prop Bolts" ? Believe they are all Grade 8
regardless.. so if right size, does it matter ??
thanks
Richard
Message 11
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
A mark from a 900F Tempilstik about 1" away from the
area being normalized will turn to liquid when the
zone is at 900F or simply stroke the zone and see if
it's at temperature.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: WELDING 4130
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
<donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
>Eric, I was just looking at a temperature chart from
my book "How to weld
>damn near anything", and the annealing temperature
for steel is 1700f, with
>a color of orange. Here are the rest of the colors:
>
>1000f - Faint red - Nitriding
>1100f - Blood Red - Stress Relieving
>1300- 1500f - Cherry Red - Atomic Changes
>1600f - Salmon - Normalizing
>1700f - Orange - Annealing
>2000f - Bright Yellow Magnetism lost
>2100-2500f - White - Forging
>2600-2900f - Steel Melts
>
>Don Pearsall
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Eric
>Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:41 AM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: WELDING 4130
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Eric"
<iworonko@cox.net>
>
>Great info but how do you tell at what temperature
the material is at when
>you are heating it with a torch?
>Eric
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:02 AM
>Subject: Kitfox-List: WELDING 4130
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Forwarded by Mark Summers/LWB/WRE/Lhoist on
02/12/2006 09:01
>> AM -----
>>
>> <dave@cfisher.com
>> > To:
>> <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
>> cc:
>> 02/10/2006 06:40
Subject: WELDING 4130
>> PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I received this from another reader that has been
giving some experienced
>> advice just wanted to get another opinion and idea
on the posting about
>> welding.
>> Mark ,
>>
>> We spoke about welding.............
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ANNEALING WILL SOFTEN YOUR METAL AND YOU ONLY WANT
TO NORMALIZ to 800 to
>> 900F .
>>
>>
>> I have been welding gas tig and mig for over 30
years ...........
>>
>>
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Dave
>>
>> Annealing increases ductility and removes stresses
from formed or part
>> formed material, producing a large-grained
structure, making the metal
>> less
>>
>> tough and easier to machine or cold-form. The
process involves heating to
>> a
>>
>> suitable temperature, soaking at that temperature
to create a stable
>> structure, then allowing the metal to cool very
slowly.
>>
>> The heat treatment condition is often identified
by the letter 'A'
>> [annealed] or 'N' [normalised] after the alloy
designation [4130 N] or a
>> code like '4130 QT900F' which indicates that the
alloy has been quenched
>> and
>> then tempered at 900 F. Scratchbuilders use 4130
in the normalised
>> condition.
>>
>> If it is necessary to recover full normalised
strength in the joint areas
>> affected by welding members into an airframe, 4130
N tube structures have
>> to
>> be re-normalised. This is done by re-heating those
heat affected zones,
>> with
>> an oxy-acetylene torch for example, to a
temperature around 800/850 C and
>> then allowing the metal to cool slowly. The
process must be carried out in
>> still air at normal temperature and some jigging
may be required to
>> prevent
>>
>> distortion in the frame. Re-normalising will also
relieve the heat
>> expansion/contraction stresses induced in the
tubing near the weld. Pure
>> stress relieving, without re-normalising, occurs
at temperatures around
>> 650/700 C.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Mark.Summers@lwbref.com>
>> To: <dave@cfisher.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:02 AM
>> Subject: Re: looking for tailwheel spring
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the info, I am inner splicing the 1/2"
with 7/16" .049 tube
>> and
>>> outer splicing the 3/8" cross members with
7/16" .028 tube. Leaving 1/8"
>>> gap between the 30 degree cuts in the 1/2 tubes
to weld and also 1/4"
>>> rosettes on each side of the splices. The inner
splices are 4" long. what
>>> do you think any suggestions I am definitely open
to all ideas before I
>>> weld. Thanks
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_-
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browse
Subscriptions page,
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List
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Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Tom,
I could have written that myself. I bought my 2 in Sept last year, spent the
winter fixing it, and just flew this last week. What a coincidence!
I'm now waiting for the wind to die, so I can go burn some more gas. I hope
tomorrow is nice.
Congratulations!
Bradley
KF2 N1836
Middle GA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas White
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas White <twhitepa@magiclink.com>
Just wanted to share my first flight with the list. What a blast! I bought
this Model II 582LC in October, and after about 4 months of repairs due to
neglect, she is flying again. Did a few high speed runs, felt good, and
before I knew it I was airborne! What a pleasure to fly, even though I only
took one run around the patch. Can't wait to get out again and really get
to see what this craft is capable of. Thanks to all the help I've gotten
from the list.
Do not archive
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Hi Guys, I know this is a odd request but,I'm looking for a VOR antenna
complete, Or plans on how to make one. I think the wisker type in the shape
of a V would be a good choice. I have added a RT 328D Com/Nav to my new
panel and will need to install a Nav antenna.
If someone could help me locate one or supply plans for building
one I would very greatfull.
Jim,N94JE
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: WELDING 4130 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
I havent really figured that out yet, but I at this point I don't plan on
doing any extensive heating. My biggest concern is avoiding rapid cooling
and getting brittleness from that.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: aft CG service letter |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark.Summers@lwbref.com
I have a feeling that the reference mainly to kf 4 aft cg increase is
because the higher max gross 1200lbs on some of the 4's would see a use for
baggage compartment weights increasing the aft cg where the kf 1,2 and 3
didn't have much weight room for baggage anyway. I guess I am trying to
figure out if aft cg less than 16" but more than 14.28" would be dangerous
in a kf2 because after I get through welding on the new tail I may have to
add ballast in the motor mount area to keep my cg under 14.28 and I really
don't want to do that if at all possible. Thanks Mark
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Try EBay
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Burke<mailto:jeburke94je@direcway.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: VOR Antenna
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com<mailto:jeburke94je@direcway.com>>
Hi Guys, I know this is a odd request but,I'm looking for a VOR antenna
complete, Or plans on how to make one. I think the wisker type in the shape
of a V would be a good choice. I have added a RT 328D Com/Nav to my new
panel and will need to install a Nav antenna.
If someone could help me locate one or supply plans for building
one I would very greatfull.
Jim,N94JE
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
I did fine one on E-Bay,but It required a balun. Unfortunately, it is not
included.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: VOR Antenna
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
>
> Try EBay
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Burke<mailto:jeburke94je@direcway.com>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 5:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: VOR Antenna
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke
> <jeburke94je@direcway.com<mailto:jeburke94je@direcway.com>>
>
> Hi Guys, I know this is a odd request but,I'm looking for a VOR antenna
> complete, Or plans on how to make one. I think the wisker type in the
> shape
> of a V would be a good choice. I have added a RT 328D Com/Nav to my new
> panel and will need to install a Nav antenna.
> If someone could help me locate one or supply plans for
> building
> one I would very greatfull.
>
> Jim,N94JE
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Malcolmbru@aol.com
I haven't flown mine yet got it in sep and put a 582 in it /w E box now cg
and horse power is a concern with the old muffler under the cowl still need
to instal a larger battery maybe under the seat malcolm from michigan
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Thomas and Bradley - Congrats to both of you! You are to be commended for
getting those 'Foxes flying again. They are not being made anymore and any
that can be rescued should be.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bradley M Webb
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 4:24 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: First Flight
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Tom,
I could have written that myself. I bought my 2 in Sept last year, spent the
winter fixing it, and just flew this last week. What a coincidence!
I'm now waiting for the wind to die, so I can go burn some more gas. I hope
tomorrow is nice.
Congratulations!
Bradley
KF2 N1836
Middle GA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas White
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Thomas White <twhitepa@magiclink.com>
Just wanted to share my first flight with the list. What a blast! I bought
this Model II 582LC in October, and after about 4 months of repairs due to
neglect, she is flying again. Did a few high speed runs, felt good, and
before I knew it I was airborne! What a pleasure to fly, even though I only
took one run around the patch. Can't wait to get out again and really get
to see what this craft is capable of. Thanks to all the help I've gotten
from the list.
Do not archive
Message 20
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
I have a very nice one removed from my plane. It is a com nav with BNC
male connector, composite construction.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Burke
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: VOR Antenna
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
I did fine one on E-Bay,but It required a balun. Unfortunately, it is
not
included.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: VOR Antenna
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
>
> Try EBay
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Burke<mailto:jeburke94je@direcway.com>
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 5:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: VOR Antenna
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke
> <jeburke94je@direcway.com<mailto:jeburke94je@direcway.com>>
>
> Hi Guys, I know this is a odd request but,I'm looking for a VOR
> antenna complete, Or plans on how to make one. I think the wisker
> type in the shape of a V would be a good choice. I have added a RT
> 328D Com/Nav to my new panel and will need to install a Nav antenna.
> If someone could help me locate one or supply plans for
> building
> one I would very greatfull.
>
> Jim,N94JE
>
>
>
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