Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:47 AM - Softening epoxy. (Graeme Toft)
2. 04:54 AM - Idle adjust on 582 (Tc9008@aol.com)
3. 05:08 AM - Re: Softening epoxy. (Lynn Matteson)
4. 05:24 AM - Re: Idle adjust on 582 (Bradley M Webb)
5. 06:53 AM - Re: Softening epoxy. (Rex)
6. 09:45 AM - Re: Softening epoxy. (ron schick)
7. 03:49 PM - AN Fittings (David Estapa)
8. 03:52 PM - Re: KF2 weight balance is AOK tires (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
9. 04:23 PM - Re: AN Fittings (Don Pearsall)
10. 04:27 PM - Re: AN Fittings (Roger Standley)
11. 06:22 PM - Flaperon Hanger Bracket Installation (cjswa)
12. 08:00 PM - Re: Ribs,Tail Feathers (Colin Durey)
13. 09:49 PM - Re: Flaperon Hanger Bracket Installation (ron schick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Softening epoxy. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
HI Guys, I know this is an issue that has been discussed before but I cant find
the thread in the achieves. I need to replace a few ribs and need to soften the
epoxy. I seem to remember someone say that a heat gun will soften it sufficiently
to pull the rib off. Can anybody confirm this please.
Thanks
Graeme Toft
Message 2
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| Subject: | Idle adjust on 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tc9008@aol.com
What screw do I use to adjust the idle only? It is at 2200 and wants to
float on landing. What could cause it to increase?
Travis
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Softening epoxy. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Yes, Graeme, it does work. I had to replace a few false ribs on my
wing, and the heat gun worked perfectly. You have to heat, then gouge
or scrape the epoxy, then repeat until the part can be removed.
Lynn
Kitfox IV...Jabiru 2200
On Saturday, February 25, 2006, at 03:44 AM, Graeme Toft wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
>
> HI Guys, I know this is an issue that has been discussed before but I
> cant find the thread in the achieves. I need to replace a few ribs and
> need to soften the epoxy. I seem to remember someone say that a heat
> gun will soften it sufficiently to pull the rib off. Can anybody
> confirm this please.
>
> Thanks
> Graeme Toft
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Idle adjust on 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Hi Travis,
My first thought would be that a cable is binding, causing the carb to stay
open slightly. It doesn't need much. What is it idling at now? I can't seem
to get much below 1950, but anything below 2300 is really rough.
My Rotax guy at the field said I should use a feeler gauge to check the
slide height when fully closed. I'm not sure there is a spec, just make them
match.
The best way I think is the get a mercury carb balance tool that are used on
motorcycles. They're available for about $40: check Ebay. I am partial to
the Motion Pro, but there are others. Maybe beg and borrow from your local
motorcycle shop? They'll hook up to the ports on the side of the carb, and
measure the suction of each throat, comparatively. Then you just adjust the
cable at the top of the carb to even them up. Very simple. Best is that they
compensate for any irregularities in the carb.
Use a piece of 1/4 inch fuel line over the cable ends at the carb. My Rotax
ones were shot, CPS gave me the idea to use fuel line with zip-ties instead.
Works very well, and keeps water out.
One more thing to check: take a real good look at the cable ends on both
sides. Maybe even remove the top of the carbs, pull out the sliders, and
inspect the cable seat. Any foreign matter there will raise the slide
slightly. Make sure they're put together per Rotax spec. It can be done
wrong. Also check the seating at whatever 2 into 1 cable device you're
using. Make sure the barrel ends are seated properly. Case in point, I
discovered that the barrel on my oil injection line twists slightly on the
arm at the motor. It doesn't seat like it should. But it only happens at
full throttle. It idle, it twists back like it should be.
I had a piece of debris fall into the throttle cam on my Bandit once. Ran
great, until you went to idle, where it sat at 2500 rpm. Pulled it apart,
and it was holding the cable away from the groove, effectively shortening
the cable, and raising the idle. Removed it, and everything went back to
normal.
Hope this helps,
Bradley
KF2 N1836
Middle GA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tc9008@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 7:50 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Idle adjust on 582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tc9008@aol.com
What screw do I use to adjust the idle only? It is at 2200 and wants to
float on landing. What could cause it to increase?
Travis
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Softening epoxy. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rex <gypsybee@copper.net>
Graeme,
I can confirm that heat is one of the only ways safely to remove epoxy.
I suggest you use a hardwood tool to push the softened epoxy off the
surface of whatever it is attached. I made mine from a piece of scrap
Oak which I shaped like a chisel. It worked great and didn't scratch the
aluminum spar I was working on. Take care and apply the heat
incrementally not to scorch anything.
Good Luck,
Rex
Colorado
Lynn Matteson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
>Yes, Graeme, it does work. I had to replace a few false ribs on my
>wing, and the heat gun worked perfectly. You have to heat, then gouge
>or scrape the epoxy, then repeat until the part can be removed.
>Lynn
>Kitfox IV...Jabiru 2200
>
>On Saturday, February 25, 2006, at 03:44 AM, Graeme Toft wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
>>
>>HI Guys, I know this is an issue that has been discussed before but I
>>cant find the thread in the achieves. I need to replace a few ribs and
>>need to soften the epoxy. I seem to remember someone say that a heat
>>gun will soften it sufficiently to pull the rib off. Can anybody
>>confirm this please.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Graeme Toft
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Karla and Rex Hefferan
Gypsy Bee Innkeepers
719-651-5198 or 719-651-9192
Message 6
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| Subject: | Softening epoxy. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
One care is to not change the temper of the aluminum with to much heat.
Mine dissapated the heat so fast it was not possible with my heat gun. Fire
is always an issue to prevent. Ron NB Ore
>From: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Softening epoxy.
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 18:44:57 +1000
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
>
>HI Guys, I know this is an issue that has been discussed before but I cant
>find the thread in the achieves. I need to replace a few ribs and need to
>soften the epoxy. I seem to remember someone say that a heat gun will
>soften it sufficiently to pull the rib off. Can anybody confirm this
>please.
>
>Thanks
>Graeme Toft
>
>
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com>
I need two 14mm to AN -8 fittings for my oil system. I ordered them thru
Summit Racing the first of January. They were back ordered and supposed
to ship Feb. 15. Now the ship date has been pushed back to April 4th.
Summit supplies Earl's fittings. I've checked on several web sites and
can't find then any where else. Anybody know of an alternate source?
David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
N97DE S5TD 912ULS (ready to Taxi Test)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: KF2 weight balance is AOK tires |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Malcolmbru@aol.com
I got the tires from a guy in Michigan they are common in powered parachutes
$80 delivered
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
David,
Jegs.com sells AN fittings. Don't know if you checked there, or even if they
have the fittings, but it is worth checking out.
Don Pearsall
http://www.soundappraisal.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Estapa
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 3:43 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: AN Fittings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com>
I need two 14mm to AN -8 fittings for my oil system. I ordered them thru
Summit Racing the first of January. They were back ordered and supposed
to ship Feb. 15. Now the ship date has been pushed back to April 4th.
Summit supplies Earl's fittings. I've checked on several web sites and
can't find then any where else. Anybody know of an alternate source?
David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
N97DE S5TD 912ULS (ready to Taxi Test)
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Hi David,
These guys have anything you may need in brass fittings. This is where I found
the connections needed when I hooked up my Earl's filter.
Roger
Royal Brass, Inc.
1048 N. 10th Street
San Jose, CA 95112
Phone (408) 297-6642
Fax: (408) 297-6545
----- Original Message -----
From: David Estapa<mailto:davestapa@juno.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 3:43 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: AN Fittings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: David Estapa <davestapa@juno.com<mailto:davestapa@juno.com>>
I need two 14mm to AN -8 fittings for my oil system. I ordered them thru
Summit Racing the first of January. They were back ordered and supposed
to ship Feb. 15. Now the ship date has been pushed back to April 4th.
Summit supplies Earl's fittings. I've checked on several web sites and
can't find then any where else. Anybody know of an alternate source?
David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
N97DE S5TD 912ULS (ready to Taxi Test)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Flaperon Hanger Bracket Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "cjswa" <cjswa@comcast.net>
List:
I am getting ready to drill the holes to attach the flaperon hanger brackets
to the ribs on a Model 4 - 1050. The manual calls for a space of 0.25" from
the trailing edge to the edge of the top bracket bolt hole. The problem is
that when I slide them onto the rib without bending them I get something
more like a 1/2" gap. So my question is, do I install them with the 1/2"
gap, or do I force them further up the ribs by flexing (bending) them to get
the 1/4" gap? Is there a problem with having them mounted further back from
the trailing edge than the manual calls for? How much space do other's have
between the training edge and the bracket?
Thanks for any and all advice.
Bill Anderson
Model 4 -1050
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Ribs,Tail Feathers |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Howie,
I took over a KF4 kit last year and wanted to streamline the
rudder/elevator assembly, but the templates/parts were not in the kit. I
have since drawn a full set of rib templates using AutoCad, and am using
these to do the job. They are not 100% perfect, but with a very small
amount of effort, they do the job quite well. If you are interested, I
can email you a copy of the templates, either in dwg. , or .pdf format,
and you can print them out yourself.
The sheet size is A2, but I could rearrange them and spread them across
smaller pages, which you would need to gue together (some of the ribs are
quite long.
Let me know if you are interested.
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney - Australia
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howie's Mail"
> <howiebee@frontiernet.net>
>
> I am new to the net ......
>
> I have a Classic 4 kitfox and I am looking for the patters or who to
> contact for the tail feather ribs,,,,,Maybe someone can help...
>
> Howie
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Flaperon Hanger Bracket Installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Bill I am right behind you and hope to be mounting my flaperons in the next
week or two. I will refrain from suggesting mounting them farther back than
designed for three reasons. 1 make sure you are mounting to enough rib. 2
make sure you can align with bearing center at turtle deck. 3 I might get
flamed for suggesting a shortcut. Hopefully someone else has been down this
road before and can offer a good solution.
I am rebuilding a wing that was destroyed by the former non-builder.
One of the things he did wrong was to force a dull bit while drilling the
flaperon attachment holes in the wing. This pushed some of the aluminum
reinforcement plates away from the rib so that they were not captured by the
rivets when assembled. I plan on using a new bit in a high speed drill to
do these holes.
Ron NB Ore MK IV Speedster
>From: "cjswa" <cjswa@comcast.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon Hanger Bracket Installation
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 21:20:12 -0500
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "cjswa" <cjswa@comcast.net>
>
>List:
>
>I am getting ready to drill the holes to attach the flaperon hanger
>brackets
>to the ribs on a Model 4 - 1050. The manual calls for a space of 0.25"
>from
>the trailing edge to the edge of the top bracket bolt hole. The problem is
>that when I slide them onto the rib without bending them I get something
>more like a 1/2" gap. So my question is, do I install them with the 1/2"
>gap, or do I force them further up the ribs by flexing (bending) them to
>get
>the 1/4" gap? Is there a problem with having them mounted further back
>from
>the trailing edge than the manual calls for? How much space do other's
>have
>between the training edge and the bracket?
>
>Thanks for any and all advice.
>
>Bill Anderson
>Model 4 -1050
>
>
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