Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:53 AM - Kitfox 4 TailplaneTemplates - 1st Installment (Colin Durey)
2. 02:56 AM - Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format (Colin Durey)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format (James C. Hartford)
4. 06:04 AM - Re: Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed (JOHN LARSEN)
5. 07:37 AM - FW: IHI High Output turbo Subaru (wingsdown)
6. 07:40 AM - Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed (wingnut)
7. 07:46 AM - Re: Fiberglassing tips? (Guy Buchanan)
8. 08:04 AM - rudder pedal help for type 5 (Rueb, Duane)
9. 08:37 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (ron schick)
10. 08:43 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (wingsdown)
11. 09:26 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Richard Rabbers)
12. 09:47 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Jay Carter)
13. 09:56 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Rueb, Duane)
14. 10:30 AM - Re: Fiberglassing tips? (Paul Wilson)
15. 12:24 PM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Alan & Linda Daniels)
16. 12:42 PM - VG installation question (wwillyard@AOL.COM)
17. 01:58 PM - Re: Fiberglassing tips? (AMuller589@aol.com)
18. 01:59 PM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (AMuller589@aol.com)
19. 02:00 PM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Rueb, Duane)
20. 02:14 PM - Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates (Colin Durey)
21. 02:28 PM - Re: VG installation question (jdmcbean)
22. 02:35 PM - Orange peeling (Marco Menezes)
23. 03:22 PM - Re: Orange peeling (ron schick)
24. 04:32 PM - Re: Orange peeling (Lowell Fitt)
25. 04:37 PM - Re: Orange peeling (Lowell Fitt)
26. 04:58 PM - Re: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates (Fox5flyer)
27. 05:50 PM - Re: Water Pressure Gauge (Rex Shaw)
28. 09:56 PM - Re: Orange peeling (Marco Menezes)
29. 10:32 PM - OWNER'S MANUAL (cy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Kitfox 4 TailplaneTemplates - 1st Installment |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
OK guys,
Herewith the first set of drawings for the Kitfox 4 empennage. Two
drawings this time around.. #1 for the Vertical Fin. #2 for the Rudder.
Caveat Emptor... They work OK for me, but you need to decide if they are
what you want. You will need to do a little shaving and filng to adjust
to your Fox, especially for the leading edge of the vertical fin. I used
a couple of pieces of Gyprock (I think you call it Drywall in the
US)edging to form the trailing edge of the fin. I then fillied that with
expanding foam and cut/sanded it back to form the final shape, to match
the front edge of the rudder. I will put a couple of photos up on the
sportsflight web (if I can figure out how to do it) so that you can see
what I have done. You may be able to come up with something easier/better.
Note, I have used 9 ribs, but you may wish to increase this number. Just
use the templates to project for interleaving ribs.
By the way, both of these drawings are A1 in size, due to the length of
the ribs. They are also Autocad Inventor R5, .idw format. I'll do another
email with them in .dwg and .pdf formats.
I will clean up the horizontal stab and elevator rib drawings in the next
day or so, and post these for anyone who is interested.
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Vertical Fin and Rudder Rib templates in .dwg format.
I'm having problems saving them in .pdf format, due to the page size,
however, I'll try again tomorrow and forward them when available
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "James C. Hartford" <jhartford@hartford-engineering.com>
Thanks for the response Colin. I don't have any attachments on my
e-mail, but being new to the list I may not be looking in the correct
place. I see you are using Inventor, I have Solidworks available and may
be able to open the Inventor files.
Thanks Jim H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Colin Durey
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 2:56 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Vertical Fin and Rudder Rib templates in .dwg format.
I'm having problems saving them in .pdf format, due to the page size,
however, I'll try again tomorrow and forward them when available
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JOHN LARSEN" <jopatco@mindspring.com>
150 mph is glued on one inch cap strips.I;ve been over 140 mph and still
here.
> [Original Message]
> From: dcaofak <dcaofak@acsalaska.net>
> To: <Kitfox-List@matronics.com>
> Date: 2/27/2006 6:41:32 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dcaofak" <dcaofak@acsalaska.net>
>
> I believe there is a Vne issue with the model III and earlier Kitfoxes
because the wings are not rib stitched.
> I have some memory (?) of there being something from the FAA limiting Vne
to 100 mph if the fabric on the wings is only held with glue.
> John Stoner
> KFIII, 582
> Alaska
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | FW: IHI High Output turbo Subaru |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Just became available the high output IHI turbo for the NSI Subaru
configuration. Purchased as a spare, but since there is no plane I am
going to offer it for $500.00. First responder gets it. Already packaged
and ready to ship. Don't get caught somewhere with a bad turbo far from
home.
Rick
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
I've been following this thread with interest because I've always felt that it
was strange how close 75% cruise is to to Vne on my airplane. According to Rotax,
setting the manifold pressure to 27 inches then pitching the IVO prop for
5200 rpm constitutes 75%. At that setting, I'm pushing about 115mph. That's only
10mph short of Vne. All I have to do is lean forward a little to get a closer
look at my chart to pitch the nose down enough to blow past Vne. Is this something
that I should be worried about? Should I keep the speeds down until I
have a better feel for keeping the airspeed constant?
-Luis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18425#18425
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing tips? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 07:31 PM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>When all the glass is saturated, put another piece of the 2
>mil on top and using a plastic squeegee or roller - we find a squeetee works
>best - work all the resin that you can from the center to and slightly
>beyond the edge of the cloth.
Be careful with the squeegee or roller. Woven material has a very definite
thickness and you can over-bleed the laminate this way. Once the resin is
rolled out the laminate will "rebound" pulling a lot of voids into the
surface plies. I don't know how to tell you how much pressure to apply,
it's trial and error, just don't get on it hard. You want the resulting
laminate, (unless it's non-structural,) to be compact, but smooth. If the
weave is pronounced after the part is cured, it's a good indication your
surface plies are structurally useless, and you may have pulled porosity
even further into the laminate.
>Fairing is done with microballoons (also available from TAP) mixed
>into the resin to a peanut butter consistency.
I like to use Microlite from West Systems. It sands WONDERFULLY but is very
expensive. Another good trick with the razor blade is to go over the entire
laminate with relatively soft filler to fill pin holes. I like to calendar
filler on with a serrated squeegee. When you sand you can see exactly where
the surface is and how much filler you've got on. When the surface is fair,
meaning you've got the shape you want, fill the remaining stripes with a
smooth, hard edged, squeegee and lightly touch it up.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 8
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| Subject: | rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals
on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder
function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very
difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they
can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the
top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by
concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can
brake be avoided.
I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the
foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily.
Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve
this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this?
Duane Rueb
Message 9
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| Subject: | rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Duane I had to shorten the threaded part of the master cylinder shaft and
clearance the pivot point on the peddle to get mine right. They also bound
and applied the brakes in a hard rudder without touching the brake. Ron NB
Ore
>From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:02:44 -0800
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>
> I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals
>on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder
>function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very
>difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they
>can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the
>top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by
>concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can
>brake be avoided.
> I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the
>foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily.
> Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve
>this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this?
>
>Duane Rueb
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
The bigger the foot the bigger the problem. I have seen on some designs
a two bar set which would seem to allow only deliberate brake effort. I
found on my 5 that little input was needed for control and keeping the
foot flat on the floor and using the toes was best. Also light flexible
shoes seem to help. Hey I even had may favorite thin cotton socks I wore
when flying.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rueb, Duane
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:03 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane"
--> <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals
on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder
function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very
difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they
can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the
top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by
concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can
brake be avoided.
I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the
foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily.
Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve
this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this?
Duane Rueb
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" <rira1950@yahoo.com>
wingsdown(at)comcast.net wrote:
> The bigger the foot the bigger the problem.
>
> --
I'm still working on M-1 restoration but in 'stick' training last summer in an
Aeronca Champ.... it took me about 4 sessions to find the right shoe combination.
Champs have heal brakes - I found my shoes getting tangled with peddles in
making transition to breaking. I experiemented with bare feet and padding (small
bar very unformfortable on feet) and finally found the right shoe.... THEN
how to use it.
It was a TREAT - with a longer than desired learning curve.
My big feet would no doubt be a bigger problem in my M-1 ..... I'll avoid the problem
by flying FLOATS !
- Lots of work to do before launch.
I really enjoy reading this list and the great contributions by all.
Thank you
Richard
M-1 - restoration / full lotus floats
SW Michigan
do not archive
--------
Richard in SW Michigan
KF-1 on lotus floats (being restored)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18461#18461
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Carter" <valley361@centurytel.net>
Keep your heels on the floor. You don't need your feet resting on the
pedals.
Jay C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>
> I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals
> on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder
> function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very
> difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they
> can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the
> top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by
> concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can
> brake be avoided.
> I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the
> foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily.
> Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve
> this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this?
>
> Duane Rueb
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
List and Rick
I forgot to include the information about my anatomy. It is
actually fairly normal and boringly ordinary, with size 101/2 (narrow)
shoe, and no motion restrictions. Yes, I do take care to use a shoe
that is not clumsy, cause with one that is It would be a disaster. I
have been using a thin running shoe mostly, and like you have said you
do, I try to use only toes on the bottom of the pedal, unless I want
brake, where then I need to slide up to a position that will allow that.
Thanks for the help.
Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of wingsdown
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:44 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
The bigger the foot the bigger the problem. I have seen on some designs
a two bar set which would seem to allow only deliberate brake effort. I
found on my 5 that little input was needed for control and keeping the
foot flat on the floor and using the toes was best. Also light flexible
shoes seem to help. Hey I even had may favorite thin cotton socks I wore
when flying.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rueb, Duane
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:03 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane"
--> <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals
on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder
function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very
difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they
can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the
top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by
concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can
brake be avoided.
I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the
foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily.
Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve
this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this?
Duane Rueb
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing tips? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul Wilson <pwmac@sisna.com>
Good question. When I made my console for my M4 I had a choice of several
kinds of foam. Find out which one works. First see if the candidate is easy
to shape an sand. Then test it with your resin to see if it attacks the
foam. Some foams dissolve with gasoline which is handy, but not a real
requirement. One could try the cast foam that comes in boxes for appliances
or computers. Try the foam at the Home stores - may work. My final choice
was some building insulation foam I found along site of the road. Very
dissimilar to what Lowes and Home Depot sells.
Regards. Paul
=================
At 04:47 PM 2/27/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
>I need to do some mods to my fiberglass motorcycle bodywork. I want to shape
>some streamlined bumps on the surface for various protrusions. I have some
>fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin I bought from Tap Plastics. My question is
>what kind of foam can I use to the shaping and then easily remove it,
>possibly by dissolving it out?
>
>Thanks
>Don Pearsall
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
I know it is a problem getting some brake when using the rudder. I have
not seen it with a tri gear plane, but a 5-7 tailwheel were you use more
rudder is a real problem. Both my wife and son sometimes get a little
smoke off the tires on take off, and trying to keep the tail up on a
wheel landing sometimes gets unwanted brakes. I have it adjusted to the
limits and think I will rivet a strip of something across the bottom of
the pedals so you only get brake when you want it. I was thinking of a
plastic piece like what we use to mount the aluminum landing gear, but
have not found just what I want yet.
Another caution on rudder peddles. Make sure you can not get your shoe
stuck between the rudder peddle and the center tube or side panel. I had
that happen once on short final on a back country strip when doing a
hard slip. I could not get my foot out and was stuck in full right
rudder on a no go around strip. I had my wife push full right rudder so
I could get my foot out just in time. I now install a guard so that can
not happen.
Alan
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | VG installation question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: wwillyard@aol.com
Just curious as to the long rang effects of the addition of VGs on Poly-Fiber covered
with Polytone. I am considering trying the addition of VGs to my Classic
IV, but don't want to add something that will cause any cracking to the finish
in the long term.
Thanks
Bill W.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglassing tips? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com
Styrofoam like boat docks, home insulation, and coolers are made from work
very well and can be dissolved by gasoline etc. without hurting the epoxy.
p.s. Remember you can clean your hands, clothes tools, scissors etc with any
cheap vinegar. Even clean your ratio pumps without contaminating the epoxy, just
dry it out good. The stuff I got at the boat store recommends it for these
uses, and it doesn't hurt the skin. If you use polyurethane glue for bonding
styafoam blocks together you can even hotwire cut the foam and gluelines.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com
my biggest problem is getting my shoe toes tangled under the panel and
wiring in many aircraft. One of NASA' U-2 pilots got his boots trapped in the
tubular frame it uses for ruddr, toe brakes, so it is definitely a hazard.
Message 19
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| Subject: | rudder pedal help for type 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
Thanks, Ron
Duane
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron schick
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:35 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
<roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Duane I had to shorten the threaded part of the master cylinder shaft
and
clearance the pivot point on the peddle to get mine right. They also
bound
and applied the brakes in a hard rudder without touching the brake.
Ron NB
Ore
>From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5
>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:02:44 -0800
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane"
<ruebd@skymail.csus.edu>
>
> I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals
>on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder
>function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very
>difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they
>can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the
>top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by
>concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal,
can
>brake be avoided.
> I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the
>foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily.
> Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve
>this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this?
>
>Duane Rueb
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Looks like the Kitfox List server is stripping off the file attachments
that I sent with my last two messages. Over the next couple of days I
will send the files directly to those who have requested.
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
Message 21
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| Subject: | VG installation question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Bill,
Our installation kit includes the adhesive and it should not cause any
cracking that wouldn't have cracked anyway.
Fly Safe !!
John McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
wwillyard@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: VG installation question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: wwillyard@aol.com
Just curious as to the long rang effects of the addition of VGs on
Poly-Fiber covered with Polytone. I am considering trying the addition of
VGs to my Classic IV, but don't want to add something that will cause any
cracking to the finish in the long term.
Thanks
Bill W.
Message 22
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Hey List:
I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass cargo pod.
Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with reducer as suggested
on can, same problem. Is temperature critical? Equipment? I'm tired of
sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any advice appreciated.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Marco Orange peel is the opposite of a run. To make a run, or stop orange
peel, turn up the paint and move closer to the work. I would suggest
turning up the air pressure and paint then move faster getting the paint
"wet". See how much you can do on a scrap before making a run. Most
single stage enamels can be wet sanded with 800-1500 grit then buffed to
shine whether it is a run or orange peel you are fixing.
Ron NB Ore
>From: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>To: "Matronics.com" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling
>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 14:35:08 -0800 (PST)
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
>Hey List:
>
> I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass
>cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with
>reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical?
>Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any
>advice appreciated.
>
>
>Marco Menezes
>Model 2 582 N99KX
>
>---------------------------------
> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Orange peeling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Polyfiber Eurothanes are a different formulation - I think - since I
painted, but sanding and polishing didn't work for me. It was explained
that with the Aerothane, the solids will drop to the bottom of the paint
layer and the "clear" will float to the surface. That is exactly what it
looked like when I color sanded and polished. The sanded part had a matt
surface no matter what I did. I don't know about the present product.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 3:19 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick"
> <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
>
> Marco Orange peel is the opposite of a run. To make a run, or stop orange
> peel, turn up the paint and move closer to the work. I would suggest
> turning up the air pressure and paint then move faster getting the paint
> "wet". See how much you can do on a scrap before making a run. Most
> single stage enamels can be wet sanded with 800-1500 grit then buffed to
> shine whether it is a run or orange peel you are fixing.
> Ron NB Ore
>
>
>>From: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>>To: "Matronics.com" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling
>>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 14:35:08 -0800 (PST)
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Hey List:
>>
>> I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass
>>cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with
>>reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical?
>>Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any
>>advice appreciated.
>>
>>
>>Marco Menezes
>>Model 2 582 N99KX
>>
>>---------------------------------
>> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Orange peeling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Marko, in my experience which is admittedly limited, temperature can be
critical and orange peel can be a problem in warm weather when the reducer
flashes off too soon. If you are painting in a warm environment you will
need a higher temperature reducer that will allow the paint to level before
it flashes off. Be careful with applying the Aerothane too heavily because
it's milk like consistency will run very easily. When I painted, I had the
best success with numerous lite coats with a slow reducer.
The worst experience I had was the time I inadvertently used polyspray
reducer instead of the Aerothane reducer. Fast flash and lots of orange
peel.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marco Menezes" <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
> Hey List:
>
> I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass
> cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with
> reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical?
> Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any
> advice appreciated.
>
>
> Marco Menezes
> Model 2 582 N99KX
>
> ---------------------------------
> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Colin, Matronics (our list server) does not allow attachments with emails
and will strip them automatically. If you have attachments that may benefit
the list just go to Sportflight.com/uploads (our pictorial archive) and
place them in the appropriate category. After you have them uploaded just
send a note to the list advising of their location. If they're of a temp
nature that only applies to a few people it might be more appropriate to
just send directly to them.
Deke Morisse
List Administrator
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 5:13 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
>
> Looks like the Kitfox List server is stripping off the file attachments
> that I sent with my last two messages. Over the next couple of days I
> will send the files directly to those who have requested.
>
>
> Regards
>
> Colin Durey
> Sydney
> +61-418-677073 (M)
> +61-2-945466162 (F)
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Water Pressure Gauge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Hi ! Ron and Larry,
Sorry no picture as I haven't acomplished those skills
yet or got a digital camera. However my gauge is VDO about 1 1/2" in dia.
It reads to 15 lbs and usually runs around 10PSI. The pressure line is taken out
of the firewall end of the head. It is a Bluehead motor and on this one at
least there is a suitable threaded location each end of the head. The front end
goes to a breather line that goes to just below the filler cap mounted up on
the firewall. This is to let any air bubbles out of the water and stop them lodging
in nooks in the block. I hope this is of assistance.
Rex.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Orange peeling |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Thanks Lowell and Ron. I'll mess with those variables and see what happens. I'm
not using Aerothane on the pod. Poly Fiber Enamel (single stage?) was recommended
for fiberglass. Reduces with Xylene. If I can't get smooth finish with next
coat, i'll try wet sanding to a gloss or if really fed up, take pod and what's
left of quart to local autobody shop. Too cold to paint outside and wife justifiably
complaining about me stinkin up the basement.
Marco
do not archive
Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
Marko, in my experience which is admittedly limited, temperature can be
critical and orange peel can be a problem in warm weather when the reducer
flashes off too soon. If you are painting in a warm environment you will
Message 29
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "cy" <cygan@optusnet.com.au>
Does anyone have a an "Owner's Manual" for a Series 5 Kitfox that I could
get a copy or is there one available in the archives?
Thanx
cy
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