---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 02/28/06: 29 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:53 AM - Kitfox 4 TailplaneTemplates - 1st Installment (Colin Durey) 2. 02:56 AM - Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format (Colin Durey) 3. 05:36 AM - Re: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format (James C. Hartford) 4. 06:04 AM - Re: Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed (JOHN LARSEN) 5. 07:37 AM - FW: IHI High Output turbo Subaru (wingsdown) 6. 07:40 AM - Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed (wingnut) 7. 07:46 AM - Re: Fiberglassing tips? (Guy Buchanan) 8. 08:04 AM - rudder pedal help for type 5 (Rueb, Duane) 9. 08:37 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (ron schick) 10. 08:43 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (wingsdown) 11. 09:26 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Richard Rabbers) 12. 09:47 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Jay Carter) 13. 09:56 AM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Rueb, Duane) 14. 10:30 AM - Re: Fiberglassing tips? (Paul Wilson) 15. 12:24 PM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Alan & Linda Daniels) 16. 12:42 PM - VG installation question (wwillyard@AOL.COM) 17. 01:58 PM - Re: Fiberglassing tips? (AMuller589@aol.com) 18. 01:59 PM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (AMuller589@aol.com) 19. 02:00 PM - Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 (Rueb, Duane) 20. 02:14 PM - Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates (Colin Durey) 21. 02:28 PM - Re: VG installation question (jdmcbean) 22. 02:35 PM - Orange peeling (Marco Menezes) 23. 03:22 PM - Re: Orange peeling (ron schick) 24. 04:32 PM - Re: Orange peeling (Lowell Fitt) 25. 04:37 PM - Re: Orange peeling (Lowell Fitt) 26. 04:58 PM - Re: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates (Fox5flyer) 27. 05:50 PM - Re: Water Pressure Gauge (Rex Shaw) 28. 09:56 PM - Re: Orange peeling (Marco Menezes) 29. 10:32 PM - OWNER'S MANUAL (cy) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:53:54 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 TailplaneTemplates - 1st Installment From: "Colin Durey" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" OK guys, Herewith the first set of drawings for the Kitfox 4 empennage. Two drawings this time around.. #1 for the Vertical Fin. #2 for the Rudder. Caveat Emptor... They work OK for me, but you need to decide if they are what you want. You will need to do a little shaving and filng to adjust to your Fox, especially for the leading edge of the vertical fin. I used a couple of pieces of Gyprock (I think you call it Drywall in the US)edging to form the trailing edge of the fin. I then fillied that with expanding foam and cut/sanded it back to form the final shape, to match the front edge of the rudder. I will put a couple of photos up on the sportsflight web (if I can figure out how to do it) so that you can see what I have done. You may be able to come up with something easier/better. Note, I have used 9 ribs, but you may wish to increase this number. Just use the templates to project for interleaving ribs. By the way, both of these drawings are A1 in size, due to the length of the ribs. They are also Autocad Inventor R5, .idw format. I'll do another email with them in .dwg and .pdf formats. I will clean up the horizontal stab and elevator rib drawings in the next day or so, and post these for anyone who is interested. Regards Colin Durey Sydney +61-418-677073 (M) +61-2-945466162 (F) ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:56:29 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format From: "Colin Durey" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" Vertical Fin and Rudder Rib templates in .dwg format. I'm having problems saving them in .pdf format, due to the page size, however, I'll try again tomorrow and forward them when available Regards Colin Durey Sydney +61-418-677073 (M) +61-2-945466162 (F) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:36:05 AM PST US Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format From: "James C. Hartford" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "James C. Hartford" Thanks for the response Colin. I don't have any attachments on my e-mail, but being new to the list I may not be looking in the correct place. I see you are using Inventor, I have Solidworks available and may be able to open the Inventor files. Thanks Jim H -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Colin Durey Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 2:56 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Rib Templates #1&2 .dwg format --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" Vertical Fin and Rudder Rib templates in .dwg format. I'm having problems saving them in .pdf format, due to the page size, however, I'll try again tomorrow and forward them when available Regards Colin Durey Sydney +61-418-677073 (M) +61-2-945466162 (F) ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:04:13 AM PST US From: "JOHN LARSEN" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JOHN LARSEN" 150 mph is glued on one inch cap strips.I;ve been over 140 mph and still here. > [Original Message] > From: dcaofak > To: > Date: 2/27/2006 6:41:32 PM > Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dcaofak" > > I believe there is a Vne issue with the model III and earlier Kitfoxes because the wings are not rib stitched. > I have some memory (?) of there being something from the FAA limiting Vne to 100 mph if the fabric on the wings is only held with glue. > John Stoner > KFIII, 582 > Alaska > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:37:58 AM PST US From: "wingsdown" Subject: Kitfox-List: FW: IHI High Output turbo Subaru --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" Just became available the high output IHI turbo for the NSI Subaru configuration. Purchased as a spare, but since there is no plane I am going to offer it for $500.00. First responder gets it. Already packaged and ready to ship. Don't get caught somewhere with a bad turbo far from home. Rick ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:40:13 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Cruise vs. Vne speed From: "wingnut" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" I've been following this thread with interest because I've always felt that it was strange how close 75% cruise is to to Vne on my airplane. According to Rotax, setting the manifold pressure to 27 inches then pitching the IVO prop for 5200 rpm constitutes 75%. At that setting, I'm pushing about 115mph. That's only 10mph short of Vne. All I have to do is lean forward a little to get a closer look at my chart to pitch the nose down enough to blow past Vne. Is this something that I should be worried about? Should I keep the speeds down until I have a better feel for keeping the airspeed constant? -Luis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18425#18425 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:46:00 AM PST US From: Guy Buchanan Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fiberglassing tips? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan At 07:31 PM 2/27/2006, you wrote: >When all the glass is saturated, put another piece of the 2 >mil on top and using a plastic squeegee or roller - we find a squeetee works >best - work all the resin that you can from the center to and slightly >beyond the edge of the cloth. Be careful with the squeegee or roller. Woven material has a very definite thickness and you can over-bleed the laminate this way. Once the resin is rolled out the laminate will "rebound" pulling a lot of voids into the surface plies. I don't know how to tell you how much pressure to apply, it's trial and error, just don't get on it hard. You want the resulting laminate, (unless it's non-structural,) to be compact, but smooth. If the weave is pronounced after the part is cured, it's a good indication your surface plies are structurally useless, and you may have pulled porosity even further into the laminate. >Fairing is done with microballoons (also available from TAP) mixed >into the resin to a peanut butter consistency. I like to use Microlite from West Systems. It sands WONDERFULLY but is very expensive. Another good trick with the razor blade is to go over the entire laminate with relatively soft filler to fill pin holes. I like to calendar filler on with a serrated squeegee. When you sand you can see exactly where the surface is and how much filler you've got on. When the surface is fair, meaning you've got the shape you want, fill the remaining stripes with a smooth, hard edged, squeegee and lightly touch it up. Guy Buchanan K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:04:42 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 From: "Rueb, Duane" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can brake be avoided. I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily. Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this? Duane Rueb ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:37:34 AM PST US From: "ron schick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" Duane I had to shorten the threaded part of the master cylinder shaft and clearance the pivot point on the peddle to get mine right. They also bound and applied the brakes in a hard rudder without touching the brake. Ron NB Ore >From: "Rueb, Duane" >To: >Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 >Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:02:44 -0800 > >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" > > I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals >on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder >function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very >difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they >can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the >top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by >concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can >brake be avoided. > I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the >foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily. > Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve >this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this? > >Duane Rueb > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:43:48 AM PST US From: "wingsdown" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" The bigger the foot the bigger the problem. I have seen on some designs a two bar set which would seem to allow only deliberate brake effort. I found on my 5 that little input was needed for control and keeping the foot flat on the floor and using the toes was best. Also light flexible shoes seem to help. Hey I even had may favorite thin cotton socks I wore when flying. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rueb, Duane Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:03 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" --> I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can brake be avoided. I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily. Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this? Duane Rueb ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:26:09 AM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: rudder pedal help for type 5 From: "Richard Rabbers" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" wingsdown(at)comcast.net wrote: > The bigger the foot the bigger the problem. > > -- I'm still working on M-1 restoration but in 'stick' training last summer in an Aeronca Champ.... it took me about 4 sessions to find the right shoe combination. Champs have heal brakes - I found my shoes getting tangled with peddles in making transition to breaking. I experiemented with bare feet and padding (small bar very unformfortable on feet) and finally found the right shoe.... THEN how to use it. It was a TREAT - with a longer than desired learning curve. My big feet would no doubt be a bigger problem in my M-1 ..... I'll avoid the problem by flying FLOATS ! - Lots of work to do before launch. I really enjoy reading this list and the great contributions by all. Thank you Richard M-1 - restoration / full lotus floats SW Michigan do not archive -------- Richard in SW Michigan KF-1 on lotus floats (being restored) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18461#18461 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:47:52 AM PST US From: "Jay Carter" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jay Carter" Keep your heels on the floor. You don't need your feet resting on the pedals. Jay C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rueb, Duane" Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 10:02 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" > > I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals > on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder > function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very > difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they > can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the > top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by > concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can > brake be avoided. > I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the > foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily. > Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve > this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this? > > Duane Rueb > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:56:15 AM PST US Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 From: "Rueb, Duane" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" List and Rick I forgot to include the information about my anatomy. It is actually fairly normal and boringly ordinary, with size 101/2 (narrow) shoe, and no motion restrictions. Yes, I do take care to use a shoe that is not clumsy, cause with one that is It would be a disaster. I have been using a thin running shoe mostly, and like you have said you do, I try to use only toes on the bottom of the pedal, unless I want brake, where then I need to slide up to a position that will allow that. Thanks for the help. Duane -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of wingsdown Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:44 AM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" The bigger the foot the bigger the problem. I have seen on some designs a two bar set which would seem to allow only deliberate brake effort. I found on my 5 that little input was needed for control and keeping the foot flat on the floor and using the toes was best. Also light flexible shoes seem to help. Hey I even had may favorite thin cotton socks I wore when flying. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rueb, Duane Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:03 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" --> I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can brake be avoided. I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily. Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this? Duane Rueb ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:30:50 AM PST US From: Paul Wilson Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fiberglassing tips? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul Wilson Good question. When I made my console for my M4 I had a choice of several kinds of foam. Find out which one works. First see if the candidate is easy to shape an sand. Then test it with your resin to see if it attacks the foam. Some foams dissolve with gasoline which is handy, but not a real requirement. One could try the cast foam that comes in boxes for appliances or computers. Try the foam at the Home stores - may work. My final choice was some building insulation foam I found along site of the road. Very dissimilar to what Lowes and Home Depot sells. Regards. Paul ================= At 04:47 PM 2/27/2006, you wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" > >I need to do some mods to my fiberglass motorcycle bodywork. I want to shape >some streamlined bumps on the surface for various protrusions. I have some >fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin I bought from Tap Plastics. My question is >what kind of foam can I use to the shaping and then easily remove it, >possibly by dissolving it out? > >Thanks >Don Pearsall > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:16 PM PST US From: Alan & Linda Daniels Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels I know it is a problem getting some brake when using the rudder. I have not seen it with a tri gear plane, but a 5-7 tailwheel were you use more rudder is a real problem. Both my wife and son sometimes get a little smoke off the tires on take off, and trying to keep the tail up on a wheel landing sometimes gets unwanted brakes. I have it adjusted to the limits and think I will rivet a strip of something across the bottom of the pedals so you only get brake when you want it. I was thinking of a plastic piece like what we use to mount the aluminum landing gear, but have not found just what I want yet. Another caution on rudder peddles. Make sure you can not get your shoe stuck between the rudder peddle and the center tube or side panel. I had that happen once on short final on a back country strip when doing a hard slip. I could not get my foot out and was stuck in full right rudder on a no go around strip. I had my wife push full right rudder so I could get my foot out just in time. I now install a guard so that can not happen. Alan > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:42:20 PM PST US From: wwillyard@AOL.COM Subject: Kitfox-List: VG installation question --> Kitfox-List message posted by: wwillyard@aol.com Just curious as to the long rang effects of the addition of VGs on Poly-Fiber covered with Polytone. I am considering trying the addition of VGs to my Classic IV, but don't want to add something that will cause any cracking to the finish in the long term. Thanks Bill W. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 01:58:55 PM PST US From: AMuller589@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fiberglassing tips? --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com Styrofoam like boat docks, home insulation, and coolers are made from work very well and can be dissolved by gasoline etc. without hurting the epoxy. p.s. Remember you can clean your hands, clothes tools, scissors etc with any cheap vinegar. Even clean your ratio pumps without contaminating the epoxy, just dry it out good. The stuff I got at the boat store recommends it for these uses, and it doesn't hurt the skin. If you use polyurethane glue for bonding styafoam blocks together you can even hotwire cut the foam and gluelines. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 01:59:31 PM PST US From: AMuller589@aol.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AMuller589@aol.com my biggest problem is getting my shoe toes tangled under the panel and wiring in many aircraft. One of NASA' U-2 pilots got his boots trapped in the tubular frame it uses for ruddr, toe brakes, so it is definitely a hazard. ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:00:03 PM PST US Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 From: "Rueb, Duane" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" Thanks, Ron Duane -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron schick Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:35 AM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" Duane I had to shorten the threaded part of the master cylinder shaft and clearance the pivot point on the peddle to get mine right. They also bound and applied the brakes in a hard rudder without touching the brake. Ron NB Ore >From: "Rueb, Duane" >To: >Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder pedal help for type 5 >Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:02:44 -0800 > >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rueb, Duane" > > I am curious to know whether anyone else finds the rudder pedals >on the type V problematic in so far as being able to use the rudder >function without inadvertently using brake. I find that it is very >difficult to do so. Mine are adjusted to tilt top back as far as they >can, but this still leaves them such that the foot wants to contact the >top and apply brake even when this is not desired. Only by >concentrating to place my foot on the very bottom part of the pedal, can >brake be avoided. > I am considering adding a step to the bottom of the pedal so the >foot can 'find' the rudder only function more easily. > Or is there a different pedal that someone has made to solve >this problem? Or can the pedal be removed and modified to solve this? > >Duane Rueb > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:14:39 PM PST US Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates From: "Colin Durey" --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" Looks like the Kitfox List server is stripping off the file attachments that I sent with my last two messages. Over the next couple of days I will send the files directly to those who have requested. Regards Colin Durey Sydney +61-418-677073 (M) +61-2-945466162 (F) ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:28:31 PM PST US From: "jdmcbean" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: VG installation question --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" Bill, Our installation kit includes the adhesive and it should not cause any cracking that wouldn't have cracked anyway. Fly Safe !! John McBean www.sportplanellc.com "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of wwillyard@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 1:41 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: VG installation question --> Kitfox-List message posted by: wwillyard@aol.com Just curious as to the long rang effects of the addition of VGs on Poly-Fiber covered with Polytone. I am considering trying the addition of VGs to my Classic IV, but don't want to add something that will cause any cracking to the finish in the long term. Thanks Bill W. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 02:35:55 PM PST US From: Marco Menezes Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes Hey List: I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical? Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any advice appreciated. Marco Menezes Model 2 582 N99KX --------------------------------- Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:22:00 PM PST US From: "ron schick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" Marco Orange peel is the opposite of a run. To make a run, or stop orange peel, turn up the paint and move closer to the work. I would suggest turning up the air pressure and paint then move faster getting the paint "wet". See how much you can do on a scrap before making a run. Most single stage enamels can be wet sanded with 800-1500 grit then buffed to shine whether it is a run or orange peel you are fixing. Ron NB Ore >From: Marco Menezes >To: "Matronics.com" >Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling >Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 14:35:08 -0800 (PST) > >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes > >Hey List: > > I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass >cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with >reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical? >Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any >advice appreciated. > > >Marco Menezes >Model 2 582 N99KX > >--------------------------------- > Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:32:37 PM PST US From: "Lowell Fitt" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" Polyfiber Eurothanes are a different formulation - I think - since I painted, but sanding and polishing didn't work for me. It was explained that with the Aerothane, the solids will drop to the bottom of the paint layer and the "clear" will float to the surface. That is exactly what it looked like when I color sanded and polished. The sanded part had a matt surface no matter what I did. I don't know about the present product. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "ron schick" Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 3:19 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" > > > Marco Orange peel is the opposite of a run. To make a run, or stop orange > peel, turn up the paint and move closer to the work. I would suggest > turning up the air pressure and paint then move faster getting the paint > "wet". See how much you can do on a scrap before making a run. Most > single stage enamels can be wet sanded with 800-1500 grit then buffed to > shine whether it is a run or orange peel you are fixing. > Ron NB Ore > > >>From: Marco Menezes >>To: "Matronics.com" >>Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling >>Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 14:35:08 -0800 (PST) >> >>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes >> >>Hey List: >> >> I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass >>cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with >>reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical? >>Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any >>advice appreciated. >> >> >>Marco Menezes >>Model 2 582 N99KX >> >>--------------------------------- >> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:37:39 PM PST US From: "Lowell Fitt" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" Marko, in my experience which is admittedly limited, temperature can be critical and orange peel can be a problem in warm weather when the reducer flashes off too soon. If you are painting in a warm environment you will need a higher temperature reducer that will allow the paint to level before it flashes off. Be careful with applying the Aerothane too heavily because it's milk like consistency will run very easily. When I painted, I had the best success with numerous lite coats with a slow reducer. The worst experience I had was the time I inadvertently used polyspray reducer instead of the Aerothane reducer. Fast flash and lots of orange peel. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marco Menezes" Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 2:35 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes > > Hey List: > > I'm having a terrible time spray painting Stitts enamel on fiberglass > cargo pod. Keep getting that "orange peel" effect. Thinned 5 to 1 with > reducer as suggested on can, same problem. Is temperature critical? > Equipment? I'm tired of sanding and pod is amost a quart heavier now. Any > advice appreciated. > > > Marco Menezes > Model 2 582 N99KX > > --------------------------------- > Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. > > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 04:58:08 PM PST US From: "Fox5flyer" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" Colin, Matronics (our list server) does not allow attachments with emails and will strip them automatically. If you have attachments that may benefit the list just go to Sportflight.com/uploads (our pictorial archive) and place them in the appropriate category. After you have them uploaded just send a note to the list advising of their location. If they're of a temp nature that only applies to a few people it might be more appropriate to just send directly to them. Deke Morisse List Administrator ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin Durey" Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 5:13 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox 4 Tailplane Templates > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" > > Looks like the Kitfox List server is stripping off the file attachments > that I sent with my last two messages. Over the next couple of days I > will send the files directly to those who have requested. > > > Regards > > Colin Durey > Sydney > +61-418-677073 (M) > +61-2-945466162 (F) > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:50:25 PM PST US From: "Rex Shaw" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Water Pressure Gauge --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex Shaw" Hi ! Ron and Larry, Sorry no picture as I haven't acomplished those skills yet or got a digital camera. However my gauge is VDO about 1 1/2" in dia. It reads to 15 lbs and usually runs around 10PSI. The pressure line is taken out of the firewall end of the head. It is a Bluehead motor and on this one at least there is a suitable threaded location each end of the head. The front end goes to a breather line that goes to just below the filler cap mounted up on the firewall. This is to let any air bubbles out of the water and stop them lodging in nooks in the block. I hope this is of assistance. Rex. ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 09:56:58 PM PST US From: Marco Menezes Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Orange peeling --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes Thanks Lowell and Ron. I'll mess with those variables and see what happens. I'm not using Aerothane on the pod. Poly Fiber Enamel (single stage?) was recommended for fiberglass. Reduces with Xylene. If I can't get smooth finish with next coat, i'll try wet sanding to a gloss or if really fed up, take pod and what's left of quart to local autobody shop. Too cold to paint outside and wife justifiably complaining about me stinkin up the basement. Marco do not archive Lowell Fitt wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" Marko, in my experience which is admittedly limited, temperature can be critical and orange peel can be a problem in warm weather when the reducer flashes off too soon. If you are painting in a warm environment you will ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 10:32:24 PM PST US From: "cy" Subject: Kitfox-List: OWNER'S MANUAL --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "cy" Does anyone have a an "Owner's Manual" for a Series 5 Kitfox that I could get a copy or is there one available in the archives? Thanx cy