Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:32 AM - Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? (mark thomson)
2. 05:59 AM - Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? (Lynn Matteson)
3. 06:36 AM - Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? (Jeremy Casey)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: looking for a CFI in michigan (Richard Rabbers)
5. 09:00 AM - Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? (Don Pearsall)
6. 01:38 PM - Re: 912 needle valves (kitfoxmike)
7. 01:52 PM - Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? (Clem Nichols)
8. 03:39 PM - Cooling (John Anderson)
9. 04:04 PM - Re: Cooling (wingsdown)
10. 04:06 PM - Re: (lost posts) was Re: 912 needle valves (Lowell Fitt)
11. 04:10 PM - Re: Cooling (Dave and Diane)
12. 04:34 PM - Re: Cooling (John Anderson)
13. 04:55 PM - Re: (lost posts) was Re: 912 needle valves (ron schick)
14. 04:59 PM - Re: Cooling (John Anderson)
15. 05:28 PM - richard in michigan (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
16. 05:34 PM - Re: (lost posts) was Re: 912 needle valves (Ted Palamarek)
17. 05:59 PM - 582 rubber donut (Marco Menezes)
18. 06:24 PM - Re: richard in michigan (Richard Rabbers)
19. 07:15 PM - Re: (lost posts) was Re: 912 needle valves (Don Pearsall)
20. 07:45 PM - Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? (mark thomson)
21. 09:19 PM - Re: 582 rubber donut (aerocon1@telusplanet.net)
22. 09:19 PM - Re: 582 rubber donut (aerocon1@telusplanet.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Anybody using a Corvair Engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: mark thomson <kr2@earthlink.net>
Don I have to disagree with you on the corvair engines,I have been to william wynnes
corvair college here in florida and was so impressed with what he and his
staff have done with the corvair motor in comparison to a certified engine..there
is no comparison.1500hr TBO time,lowrpm cruise,and a no power plant failure
yet,plus $2500 to do a complete rebuild and aircraft conversion by william
wynnes specs.I recommend looking at william wynnes site and attending one of
his colleges if anyone is serious about the corvair engine,I feel that this is
a very suitable aircraft engine with an excellent record of performance.
I also have a kitfox 4 model powered with a VW engine,but if and when I have to
change engines I would go with a corvair engine way before I would use a 912
or 914 rotax.
Sincerely Mark Thomson
N61AC
-----Original Message-----
>From: Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2006 6:13 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
>Matt,
>I don't have any numbers in front of me, but I think Corvair engines would
>be way too big and heavy. Those are opposed 6 cylinders, and not built for
>light weight. Add to that lack of parts availability, wide size, and the
>fact that they leak a quart of oil an hour. I don't think they make good
>airplane engines.
>
>Don Pearsall
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Teixeira
>Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 2:59 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Matt Teixeira" <mteixeira@wmlylesco.com>
>
>
>Is anyone using a Corvair engine or seen one on a Kitfox? I saw one run
>on a test stand yesterday and I am very interested.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Matt K4-1200
>Fresno, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I recall talking to Frank Miller about the Corvair for the Kitfox IV,
and he told me that it was way too heavy. Granted Wynne has done a nice
job of making it into an aviation engine, but not for the IV.
I seem to recall that I might have looked up applications for the
Corvair engine on Wynne's site and that the Kitfox IV was not on the
list, but I might be wrong in this case.
Lynn
On Thursday, March 23, 2006, at 07:28 AM, mark thomson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: mark thomson <kr2@earthlink.net>
>
> Don I have to disagree with you on the corvair engines,I have been to
> william wynnes corvair college here in florida and was so impressed
> with what he and his staff have done with the corvair motor in
> comparison to a certified engine..there is no comparison.1500hr TBO
> time,lowrpm cruise,and a no power plant failure yet,plus $2500 to do a
> complete rebuild and aircraft conversion by william wynnes specs.I
> recommend looking at william wynnes site and attending one of his
> colleges if anyone is serious about the corvair engine,I feel that
> this is a very suitable aircraft engine with an excellent record of
> performance.
> I also have a kitfox 4 model powered with a VW engine,but if and when
> I have to change engines I would go with a corvair engine way before I
> would use a 912 or 914 rotax.
>
> Sincerely Mark Thomson
> N61AC
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
>> <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>>
>> Matt,
>> I don't have any numbers in front of me, but I think Corvair engines
>> would
>> be way too big and heavy.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Anybody using a Corvair Engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
I recall talking to Frank Miller about the Corvair for the Kitfox IV,
and he told me that it was way too heavy. Granted Wynne has done a nice
job of making it into an aviation engine, but not for the IV.
I seem to recall that I might have looked up applications for the
Corvair engine on Wynne's site and that the Kitfox IV was not on the
list, but I might be wrong in this case.
Lynn
On Thursday, March 23, 2006, at 07:28 AM, mark thomson wrote:
<snip>
Someone stated it already, but the Vair is in the O-200 weight
range...I've never heard of an O-200 on a IV... would probably be fine
on a 5-7 though.
Jeremy
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: looking for a CFI in michigan |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" <rira1950@yahoo.com>
Thanks for details Lynn...
I'll ponder this a bit... I don't think there is any reason I could not use my
aluminum header mounted high and behind the seat so may consider this. I'm away
from my plane at the moment. (traveling) The 'right' behind the seat may be
better for CG - than a few inches further back - but I've got too much to do yet
to know what I may need in that regard. Sorry to bother you about a header
tank at this point. Wish I had a bit more useful load to work with.
- Thanks again.
--------
Richard in SW Michigan
Model 1 / 618 - full-lotus floats (restoration)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23696#23696
Message 5
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| Subject: | Anybody using a Corvair Engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Thanks for the info, Mark.
I am not against using a Corvair engine at all. I like to see alternative
engines being used as that means builders are being innovative. But, putting
a heavy engine in a KF has its major disadvantages. I used to build KR-2s
and know of builders putting Corvairs in those, so it can't be too expensive
or difficult.
As everyone here knows, anytime you deviate from the designed specs of the
kit, you invite problems. One change means 100 other changes need to be
made. And in the end, you end up with a heavy engine that puts out about the
same HP as a Rotax 912. But that being said, it would be cool to see the
Corvair in a KF.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mark thomson
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 4:28 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: mark thomson <kr2@earthlink.net>
Don I have to disagree with you on the corvair engines,I have been to
william wynnes corvair college here in florida and was so impressed with
what he and his staff have done with the corvair motor in comparison to a
certified engine..there is no comparison.1500hr TBO time,lowrpm cruise,and a
no power plant failure yet,plus $2500 to do a complete rebuild and aircraft
conversion by william wynnes specs.I recommend looking at william wynnes
site and attending one of his colleges if anyone is serious about the
corvair engine,I feel that this is a very suitable aircraft engine with an
excellent record of performance.
I also have a kitfox 4 model powered with a VW engine,but if and when I
have to change engines I would go with a corvair engine way before I would
use a 912 or 914 rotax.
Sincerely Mark Thomson
N61AC
-----Original Message-----
>From: Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>Sent: Mar 20, 2006 6:13 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
>Matt,
>I don't have any numbers in front of me, but I think Corvair engines would
>be way too big and heavy. Those are opposed 6 cylinders, and not built for
>light weight. Add to that lack of parts availability, wide size, and the
>fact that they leak a quart of oil an hour. I don't think they make good
>airplane engines.
>
>Don Pearsall
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Teixeira
>Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 2:59 PM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Matt Teixeira"
<mteixeira@wmlylesco.com>
>
>
>Is anyone using a Corvair engine or seen one on a Kitfox? I saw one run
>on a test stand yesterday and I am very interested.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Matt K4-1200
>Fresno, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 912 needle valves |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
My advice is to change them, you will get the black tips from aircraft spruce,
also get new pins and arms. Take some carb spray and inject into the different
circuits while doing this, take the idle adjust screws out and spray in there
also. favor the lean side on the float adjustments, put the arms so they go
level with the carbs upside down and the up slightly for the lean side.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23779#23779
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Anybody using a Corvair Engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
One comment to anyone considering a Corvair engine in a Model IV 1200. My
plane came equipped with a Subaru EA 81 engine. The installed weight of
that engine is in the neighborhood of 230 pounds if memory serves me
correctly, or almost 100 pounds heavier than a Rotax 912S. The plane's
empty weight is 820 pounds, so with my 180 pounds and 26 gallons of fuel I'm
only about 50 pounds below gross weight. What I have, therefore, is a
single place plane with an extra seat which is good for charts, etc., but
little else. According to Mr. Wynn's info on his website the Corvair is in
the neighborhood of 230 pounds also which would lead to a similar situation.
For a model V or up the Corvair engine sounds like an interesting choice,
but for a Model IV, in my humble opinion the plane's gross weight makes it a
poor choice.
Clem Nichols
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
> <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
> Thanks for the info, Mark.
> I am not against using a Corvair engine at all. I like to see alternative
> engines being used as that means builders are being innovative. But,
> putting
> a heavy engine in a KF has its major disadvantages. I used to build KR-2s
> and know of builders putting Corvairs in those, so it can't be too
> expensive
> or difficult.
>
> As everyone here knows, anytime you deviate from the designed specs of the
> kit, you invite problems. One change means 100 other changes need to be
> made. And in the end, you end up with a heavy engine that puts out about
> the
> same HP as a Rotax 912. But that being said, it would be cool to see the
> Corvair in a KF.
>
> Don Pearsall
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of mark thomson
> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 4:28 AM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: mark thomson <kr2@earthlink.net>
>
> Don I have to disagree with you on the corvair engines,I have been to
> william wynnes corvair college here in florida and was so impressed with
> what he and his staff have done with the corvair motor in comparison to a
> certified engine..there is no comparison.1500hr TBO time,lowrpm cruise,and
> a
> no power plant failure yet,plus $2500 to do a complete rebuild and
> aircraft
> conversion by william wynnes specs.I recommend looking at william wynnes
> site and attending one of his colleges if anyone is serious about the
> corvair engine,I feel that this is a very suitable aircraft engine with an
> excellent record of performance.
> I also have a kitfox 4 model powered with a VW engine,but if and when I
> have to change engines I would go with a corvair engine way before I would
> use a 912 or 914 rotax.
>
> Sincerely Mark Thomson
> N61AC
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>>Sent: Mar 20, 2006 6:13 PM
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
>><donpearsall@comcast.net>
>>
>>Matt,
>>I don't have any numbers in front of me, but I think Corvair engines would
>>be way too big and heavy. Those are opposed 6 cylinders, and not built for
>>light weight. Add to that lack of parts availability, wide size, and the
>>fact that they leak a quart of oil an hour. I don't think they make good
>>airplane engines.
>>
>>Don Pearsall
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Teixeira
>>Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 2:59 PM
>>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Matt Teixeira"
> <mteixeira@wmlylesco.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>Is anyone using a Corvair engine or seen one on a Kitfox? I saw one run
>>on a test stand yesterday and I am very interested.
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>>Matt K4-1200
>>Fresno, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Well, further to my wee cooling saga, I got the brass NSI radiator back from
the rad shop and seems to check out OK?? The big mystery is why it is not
circulating an cold in parts when the engine is hot. I have a second small
Earls radiator in the heater circuit and take the feed for this from the
t/stat housing (hottest part of the system). I wondered if the water pump
(new) is favoring this circuit and there is not enough suck available to
pump the (cold) water back up from the main radiator. Thinking that perhaps
I should change the feed side of the small rad to a 'T' in the return up
pipe from the main rad, then all the water the pump moves goes through the
main rad. I have a small hole in the t/stat so there would still be some
circulation before it opens. Any thoughts on this? John A. EA81T
Shop til you drop at XtraMSN Shopping http://shopping.xtramsn.co.nz/home/
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
The flow will take the path of least resistance. Do you have pics of the
entire system. Have you ruled out an air pocket. Did you fill using a
vacuum fill type procedure or bleed all air out somehow?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Anderson
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Cooling
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
--> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Well, further to my wee cooling saga, I got the brass NSI radiator back
from
the rad shop and seems to check out OK?? The big mystery is why it is
not
circulating an cold in parts when the engine is hot. I have a second
small
Earls radiator in the heater circuit and take the feed for this from the
t/stat housing (hottest part of the system). I wondered if the water
pump
(new) is favoring this circuit and there is not enough suck available to
pump the (cold) water back up from the main radiator. Thinking that
perhaps
I should change the feed side of the small rad to a 'T' in the return up
pipe from the main rad, then all the water the pump moves goes through
the
main rad. I have a small hole in the t/stat so there would still be some
circulation before it opens. Any thoughts on this? John A. EA81T
Shop til you drop at XtraMSN Shopping
http://shopping.xtramsn.co.nz/home/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 912 needle valves |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Is anyone else losing the originals of some posts. The list is pretty
sparse as of late and then I get a reply to a post I haven't seen yet. It
makes me wonder what else is missing.
Is anyone else experiencing this. Is this a function of the new what ever
it is feature that Matt announced a few months back?
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 1:35 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
>
> My advice is to change them, you will get the black tips from aircraft
> spruce, also get new pins and arms. Take some carb spray and inject into
> the different circuits while doing this, take the idle adjust screws out
> and spray in there also. favor the lean side on the float adjustments,
> put the arms so they go level with the carbs upside down and the up
> slightly for the lean side.
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
> kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
> http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23779#23779
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave and Diane <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
John,
I won't claim to be any kind of an expert on the system you have; but I can
offer some pointers which come to mind on liquid cooling systems in general.
First, since you have a thermostat in the cooling circuit; do you know for
sure that it is actually opening, or opening far enough? My lo-tech car way
of doing things is that if I have any doubt about a thermostat, I take it
out, put it in a kettle of water on the stove with a thermometer in the water
bath - heat it up and see if it opens when it should, and as far as it
should. Usually thermostats have their calibration temp stamped on them
somewhere - this is the temp the thermostat should start opening at. Maybe
aircraft thermostats are perfect and they don't go out of calibration;
however, I know auto thermostats puke on a regular basis, either sticking
open, or not opening at all.
2nd, and I am not sure if this is even likely with the fairly small diameter
hoses used in the cooling system, consider the possibility of a suction side
hose collapsing when the engine is operating at high RPM - I have seen this
on cars on a lower radiator hose which is soft - sort of sucks the hose flat
and the water quits flowing. Again, I am not real sure this is remotely
possible, given the size of the hoses but at least an idea.
Overall, I would be looking for something which is restricting or partially
restricting the liquid flow.
Big picture on liquid cooling - the liquid has to circulate, the air has to
circulate and the radiator has to, well, radiate.
Incidentally, I am building a kitfox 7 with the rotax engine and do want to
include a thermostat in the system just to keep the engine up to temp in some
of the less than tropical weather we experience in Minne-snow-ta. Can any of
you guys tell me where a person gets a thermostat for these systems?
Dave S.
St Paul, MN
Do Not Archive
On Thursday 23 March 2006 5:37 pm, John Anderson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Well, further to my wee cooling saga, I got the brass NSI radiator back
> from the rad shop and seems to check ...... have a small hole in the t/stat
so there would
> still be some circulation before it opens. Any thoughts on this? John A.
> EA81T
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Thanks Dave, some good points. Yes I did do the old hot water test on the
t/stat but it's on my list, ordered a fail over type also. Large hoses and
seem faily stiff. John
From: Dave and Diane <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cooling
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave and Diane <ddsyverson@comcast.net>
John,
I won't claim to be any kind of an expert on the system you have; but I can
offer some pointers which come to mind on liquid cooling systems in general.
First, since you have a thermostat in the cooling circuit; do you know for
sure that it is actually opening, or opening far enough? My lo-tech car way
of doing things is that if I have any doubt about a thermostat, I take it
out, put it in a kettle of water on the stove with a thermometer in the
water
bath - heat it up and see if it opens when it should, and as far as it
should. Usually thermostats have their calibration temp stamped on them
somewhere - this is the temp the thermostat should start opening at. Maybe
aircraft thermostats are perfect and they don't go out of calibration;
however, I know auto thermostats puke on a regular basis, either sticking
open, or not opening at all.
2nd, and I am not sure if this is even likely with the fairly small diameter
hoses used in the cooling system, consider the possibility of a suction side
hose collapsing when the engine is operating at high RPM - I have seen this
on cars on a lower radiator hose which is soft - sort of sucks the hose flat
and the water quits flowing. Again, I am not real sure this is remotely
possible, given the size of the hoses but at least an idea.
Overall, I would be looking for something which is restricting or partially
restricting the liquid flow.
Big picture on liquid cooling - the liquid has to circulate, the air has to
circulate and the radiator has to, well, radiate.
Incidentally, I am building a kitfox 7 with the rotax engine and do want to
include a thermostat in the system just to keep the engine up to temp in
some
of the less than tropical weather we experience in Minne-snow-ta. Can any of
you guys tell me where a person gets a thermostat for these systems?
Dave S.
St Paul, MN
Do Not Archive
On Thursday 23 March 2006 5:37 pm, John Anderson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Well, further to my wee cooling saga, I got the brass NSI radiator back
> from the rad shop and seems to check ...... have a small hole in the
t/stat
so there would
> still be some circulation before it opens. Any thoughts on this? John A.
> EA81T
Become a fitness fanatic @ http://xtramsn.co.nz/health
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 912 needle valves |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Lowell is it the "do not archive" part? Ron NB Or
>From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: (lost posts) was Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:05:48 -0800
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Is anyone else losing the originals of some posts. The list is pretty
>sparse as of late and then I get a reply to a post I haven't seen yet. It
>makes me wonder what else is missing.
>
>Is anyone else experiencing this. Is this a function of the new what ever
>it is feature that Matt announced a few months back?
>
>Lowell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 1:35 PM
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
> >
> > My advice is to change them, you will get the black tips from aircraft
> > spruce, also get new pins and arms. Take some carb spray and inject
>into
> > the different circuits while doing this, take the idle adjust screws out
> > and spray in there also. favor the lean side on the float adjustments,
> > put the arms so they go level with the carbs upside down and the up
> > slightly for the lean side.
> >
> > --------
> > kitfoxmike
> > kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
> > http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23779#23779
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1142915948
This gives you a bit of an idea Rick. I filled the system by removing the
main radiator hoses at the top then filled the lower rad. Vacuum system
would be the best way I guess. John
From: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Cooling
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
The flow will take the path of least resistance. Do you have pics of the
entire system. Have you ruled out an air pocket. Did you fill using a
vacuum fill type procedure or bleed all air out somehow?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Anderson
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Cooling
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson"
--> <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Well, further to my wee cooling saga, I got the brass NSI radiator back
from
the rad shop and seems to check out OK?? The big mystery is why it is
not
circulating an cold in parts when the engine is hot. I have a second
small
Earls radiator in the heater circuit and take the feed for this from the
t/stat housing (hottest part of the system). I wondered if the water
pump
(new) is favoring this circuit and there is not enough suck available to
pump the (cold) water back up from the main radiator. Thinking that
perhaps
I should change the feed side of the small rad to a 'T' in the return up
pipe from the main rad, then all the water the pump moves goes through
the
main rad. I have a small hole in the t/stat so there would still be some
circulation before it opens. Any thoughts on this? John A. EA81T
Shop til you drop at XtraMSN Shopping
http://shopping.xtramsn.co.nz/home/
Message 15
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| Subject: | richard in michigan |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Malcolmbru@aol.com
the placement of my header tank 6 in behind the seat only moved my cg 3/10
of an inch, full of fuel, / 2 gall ,still way inside of my asseptable range
a small pan / storage compartment behind the seat is alwase nice to have
also mal
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 912 needle valves |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
Lowell and Ron
I seem to be missing some posts as well. And sometimes I get double posts.
Ted
Edmonton, Ab
------------------------SNIP---------------------
Subject: Re: (lost posts) was Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko@hotmail.com>
Lowell is it the "do not archive" part? Ron NB Or
>Subject: Re: (lost posts) was Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:05:48 -0800
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Is anyone else losing the originals of some posts. The list is pretty
>sparse as of late and then I get a reply to a post I haven't seen yet. It
>makes me wonder what else is missing.
>
>Is anyone else experiencing this. Is this a function of the new what ever
>it is feature that Matt announced a few months back?
>
>Lowell
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | 582 rubber donut |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
List:
Anybody know a trick for removing the 3 hex screws that hold the rubber donut
on the flywheel? Those puppies are loctited and torqued pretty good and the whole
crank wants to turn with them. Rotax probably has a $200 tool for the job
that I'd rather not buy for occasional use.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: richard in michigan |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" <rira1950@yahoo.com>
Malcolm,
I appreciate your note.
I hadn't started calculating....
I should have started the numbers.
Thank you.
Do not archive
--------
Richard in SW Michigan
Model 1 / 618 - full-lotus floats (restoration)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23846#23846
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 912 needle valves |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Lowell, yesterday there were 46 messages on the KF list. If you do not have
that many, then you are missing some. Check your spam folder. It could be
the old problem of ISPs not delivering messages they think is spam
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: (lost posts) was Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Is anyone else losing the originals of some posts. The list is pretty
sparse as of late and then I get a reply to a post I haven't seen yet. It
makes me wonder what else is missing.
Is anyone else experiencing this. Is this a function of the new what ever
it is feature that Matt announced a few months back?
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 1:35 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: 912 needle valves
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
>
> My advice is to change them, you will get the black tips from aircraft
> spruce, also get new pins and arms. Take some carb spray and inject into
> the different circuits while doing this, take the idle adjust screws out
> and spray in there also. favor the lean side on the float adjustments,
> put the arms so they go level with the carbs upside down and the up
> slightly for the lean side.
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
> kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
> http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=23779#23779
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Anybody using a Corvair Engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: mark thomson <kr2@earthlink.net>
Thanks guys for your input on the Corvair engine,I would agree that the engine
is a heavier engine than the 912 and you are going to have to sacrifice alot
of your useful load,but the difference in cost is so significate that one must
look at the corvair as an alternative engine......to bad we cant get a better
gross weight on our kitfoxes.
Maybe a good airboat engine?
I am in need of a set of plans and or the owners manual to the kf4,would anyone
possibly have a set they would copy for me ,or might know of where I could buy
a set.
Thanks for any help......Mark
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeremy Casey <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
>Sent: Mar 23, 2006 9:34 AM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Anybody using a Corvair Engine?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
>
>
>I recall talking to Frank Miller about the Corvair for the Kitfox IV,
>and he told me that it was way too heavy. Granted Wynne has done a nice
>job of making it into an aviation engine, but not for the IV.
> I seem to recall that I might have looked up applications for the
>Corvair engine on Wynne's site and that the Kitfox IV was not on the
>list, but I might be wrong in this case.
>
>Lynn
>On Thursday, March 23, 2006, at 07:28 AM, mark thomson wrote:
>
><snip>
>
>
>Someone stated it already, but the Vair is in the O-200 weight
>range...I've never heard of an O-200 on a IV... would probably be fine
>on a 5-7 though.
>
>Jeremy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: 582 rubber donut |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: aerocon1@telusplanet.net
Marco,
Hopefully, you don't have thre rubber donut removed yet. There is a trick to
getting it off so that is is easily reinstallable.
First, get a large hose clamp that goes around the outside of the donut.
Tighten the clamp around the circumference of the donut. This will stop it
from expanding when the bolts are removed. It will lso make sure it keeps it
shape so the bolt holes line up when you reassemble. Don't remove the clamp
until the donut has been re-installed.
Second, the proper was to lock the crank is by inserting a ROTAX locking pin
into the impulse port on the engine (this is the $200.00 tool that costs
$2.97). One of these pins should have been in the Rotax tool kit. You will
have to insert the pin into the impulse port and slowly turn the engine over
while lightly pushing on the pin.. There is a hole in the crankshaft that the
pin will slip into..This will lock the crankshaft in place. Do not use a
drill bit or any brittle metal rod. If it snaps you are looking at an engine
dissasembly to get the broken part out. On a 582 thats a 10 hour job as the
engine usually has to be completely broken down.
There is another tool that bolts onto the flywheel that wil also lock the
flywheel. It's quite a bit more money, but its's also used to pull the
flywheel.
Once you have the engine locked up you can easily remove the allen bolts.
You should note the position of the washers under the bolts. One of the flat
sides should face the outer edge of the donut and the other flat should face
towards the center of the donut. This positioning is important so that the
washer does not contact the bodt of the gear drive.
The allen bolts on the C & E drive rubber donuts are fairly shallow. You will
need a good quality allen wrench firmly pressed into the bolts in order to
safely ermove them. Get a new wrench if yours is any way sloppy.
Hope this helps
Bob Robertson
Quoting Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
> List:
>
> Anybody know a trick for removing the 3 hex screws that hold the rubber
> donut on the flywheel? Those puppies are loctited and torqued pretty good and
> the whole crank wants to turn with them. Rotax probably has a $200 tool for
> the job that I'd rather not buy for occasional use.
>
>
>
>
> Marco Menezes
> Model 2 582 N99KX
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: 582 rubber donut |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: aerocon1@telusplanet.net
Marco,
Hopefully, you don't have thre rubber donut removed yet. There is a trick to
getting it off so that is is easily reinstallable.
First, get a large hose clamp that goes around the outside of the donut.
Tighten the clamp around the circumference of the donut. This will stop it
from expanding when the bolts are removed. It will lso make sure it keeps it
shape so the bolt holes line up when you reassemble. Don't remove the clamp
until the donut has been re-installed.
Second, the proper was to lock the crank is by inserting a ROTAX locking pin
into the impulse port on the engine (this is the $200.00 tool that costs
$2.97). One of these pins should have been in the Rotax tool kit. You will
have to insert the pin into the impulse port and slowly turn the engine over
while lightly pushing on the pin.. There is a hole in the crankshaft that the
pin will slip into..This will lock the crankshaft in place. Do not use a
drill bit or any brittle metal rod. If it snaps you are looking at an engine
dissasembly to get the broken part out. On a 582 thats a 10 hour job as the
engine usually has to be completely broken down.
There is another tool that bolts onto the flywheel that wil also lock the
flywheel. It's quite a bit more money, but its's also used to pull the
flywheel.
Once you have the engine locked up you can easily remove the allen bolts.
You should note the position of the washers under the bolts. One of the flat
sides should face the outer edge of the donut and the other flat should face
towards the center of the donut. This positioning is important so that the
washer does not contact the bodt of the gear drive.
The allen bolts on the C & E drive rubber donuts are fairly shallow. You will
need a good quality allen wrench firmly pressed into the bolts in order to
safely ermove them. Get a new wrench if yours is any way sloppy.
Hope this helps
Bob Robertson
Quoting Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
> List:
>
> Anybody know a trick for removing the 3 hex screws that hold the rubber
> donut on the flywheel? Those puppies are loctited and torqued pretty good and
> the whole crank wants to turn with them. Rotax probably has a $200 tool for
> the job that I'd rather not buy for occasional use.
>
>
>
>
> Marco Menezes
> Model 2 582 N99KX
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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