Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:36 AM - Re: Rotax Charging (Marco Menezes)
2. 06:50 AM - Re: New piston set (kurt schrader)
3. 07:39 AM - Re: Rotax Charging (Fox5flyer)
4. 08:29 AM - Re: Rotax Charging (Guy Buchanan)
5. 08:29 AM - Re: Rotax Charging (Guy Buchanan)
6. 09:33 AM - Re: Rotax Charging (Fox5flyer)
7. 10:15 AM - Two 912 powered Model IV Speedsters up for sale (Dwayne)
8. 10:22 AM - Re: Rotax Charging (Bob Robertson)
9. 03:07 PM - Budget hangar door ideas? (wingnut)
10. 03:56 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Dee Young)
11. 04:05 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Bradley M Webb)
12. 04:13 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Rex Hefferan)
13. 04:16 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Cudnohufsky's)
14. 04:28 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Richard Rabbers)
15. 04:30 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (wingnut)
16. 04:31 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Lowell Fitt)
17. 05:27 PM - Re: Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Grant Fluent)
18. 06:38 PM - Low speed setting 582 (Gill Levesque)
19. 06:52 PM - Re: Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Jeremy Casey)
20. 06:54 PM - Re: Low speed setting 582 (Malcolmbru@AOL.COM)
21. 07:17 PM - Re: Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Rex)
22. 07:24 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Jeremy Casey)
23. 08:17 PM - Re: Budget hangar door ideas? (Bruce Harrington)
24. 08:17 PM - 582 EGT Survey (Larry Martin)
25. 09:24 PM - Wing strut (QSS)
26. 09:47 PM - Data Plate (Guy Buchanan)
27. 10:14 PM - See where all our friends are on my Friend Map! (hausding)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Guy, I'm looking at the simplified wiring schematic from Denny construction manual
(page E-28) and it shows tach connected to gray wire coming from engine, through
a 1K ohm resistor and 1/4 amp fuse. Solid yellow and yellow/black 16 ga
wires go to the regulator.
Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
All,
I started the Rotax 582 for the first time today, and everything
was fine but the tachometer and the charging. I'd like some help
de-bugging, if I may.
Configuration: Rotax 582 grey head w/ 3-phase regulator wired per Z-17. GRT
EIS tach wire connected to yellow alternator output wire.
First start: Tachometer reads 0. No variation in voltage switching
alternator in or out, regardless of RPM. Voltage about 12.9V.
Disconnect regulator from alternator. Measure ACV across alternator and get
Rotax spec values. (~14 - 55 VAC depending on RPM.)
Re-connect regulator input wires and disconnect output wire and measure
voltage between it and ground: ~5 VDC invariant with RPM. Note that the EIS
RPM is now working.
Re-connect the output wire and clip DC volt meter between the regulator
output and ground: ~ 14.1 VDC at idle, decreasing to about 5 VDC at higher
RPM. EIS RPM is 0 again.
Basically I'm clueless as to how to diagnose whether the charging
system is working beyond the alternator output. Any help would be
appreciated. I think whatever's influencing the charging is probably
inhibiting the EIS RPM input, as well.
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: New piston set |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Rick,
Everytime you do this I feel like you are selling off
your own arms and legs. Definitely top of the line
airplane stuff from a guy that does the best with it.
Wish I was in a position to do more. Really :-(
Would the pistons fit my engine, or do I need to
enlarge the cyl's? I don't know what NSI did to them.
I might like those EGT gauges, if I can make them fit.
That origional EDO gauge isn't the best.
Maybe the turbo too if I can swap them out.
Is your engine gone?
Please contact me off list.
Kurt S.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Guy, if I can add to this, when I built my M2 with early 582 engine it had a
resistor built into the stator assembly that tended to break very easily.
It was a common problem on the early models that caused symptoms as you
describe. It's been many years, but as I recall, the fix was to remove the
resistor and jumper it. I don't recall having to do anything else. Tach
problems disappeared after that.
Before tearing into your engine you might check into this with a Rotax
expert.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marco Menezes" <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax Charging
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
>
> Guy, I'm looking at the simplified wiring schematic from Denny
construction manual (page E-28) and it shows tach connected to gray wire
coming from engine, through a 1K ohm resistor and 1/4 amp fuse. Solid yellow
and yellow/black 16 ga wires go to the regulator.
>
> Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
Guy Buchanan
>
> All,
> I started the Rotax 582 for the first time today, and everything
> was fine but the tachometer and the charging. I'd like some help
> de-bugging, if I may.
>
> Configuration: Rotax 582 grey head w/ 3-phase regulator wired per Z-17.
GRT
> EIS tach wire connected to yellow alternator output wire.
>
> First start: Tachometer reads 0. No variation in voltage switching
> alternator in or out, regardless of RPM. Voltage about 12.9V.
>
> Disconnect regulator from alternator. Measure ACV across alternator and
get
> Rotax spec values. (~14 - 55 VAC depending on RPM.)
>
> Re-connect regulator input wires and disconnect output wire and measure
> voltage between it and ground: ~5 VDC invariant with RPM. Note that the
EIS
> RPM is now working.
> Re-connect the output wire and clip DC volt meter between the regulator
> output and ground: ~ 14.1 VDC at idle, decreasing to about 5 VDC at higher
> RPM. EIS RPM is 0 again.
> Basically I'm clueless as to how to diagnose whether the charging
> system is working beyond the alternator output. Any help would be
> appreciated. I think whatever's influencing the charging is probably
> inhibiting the EIS RPM input, as well.
> Thanks,
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 07:37 AM 4/18/2006, you wrote:
>Before tearing into your engine you might check into this with a Rotax
>expert.
Thanks Deke, I will. I think, though, that the stator is working, as when I
get the proper AC voltage measuring across the two output wires. It's the
regulator output that seems incorrect.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 06:31 AM 4/18/2006, you wrote:
>Guy, I'm looking at the simplified wiring schematic from Denny
>construction manual (page E-28) and it shows tach connected to gray wire
>coming from engine, through a 1K ohm resistor and 1/4 amp fuse. Solid
>yellow and yellow/black 16 ga wires go to the regulator.
The GRT EIS can't use the grey wire for some reason. They say to pick up
one of the PM alternator output wires instead. Thanks, though.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
In my case Guy, except for the tach, everything was working fine and
charging voltage was good. Another problem the early 582s had was the
regulator, which isn't really a regulator, but a rectifier. A new solid
state regulator from Spruce fixed that problem.
Have you talked to Greg at GRT? Good luck
Deke
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 07:37 AM 4/18/2006, you wrote:
> >Before tearing into your engine you might check into this with a Rotax
> >expert.
>
> Thanks Deke, I will. I think, though, that the stator is working, as when
I
> get the proper AC voltage measuring across the two output wires. It's the
> regulator output that seems incorrect.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Two 912 powered Model IV Speedsters up for sale |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dwayne" <dwaynemccourt@yahoo.com>
I have two Speedsters one is a 1993 Model IV Speedster 912UL 521 hours TT with
good instrumentation, NAV/COM/modeC, electric trim, oil cooler, radiator damper,
nice interior, cabin heat, engine heat, hangared...........needs nothing.....
cruises 115-120 mph at 4-5gph
The other Speedster is also a 912 and was completed in the summer of 2003. It is
decked out with great instruments, Garmin Nav/com, Mode C, electric gyro turn
and bank, built-in intercom, strobes, navs lights, landing lights, dual electric
trim and most anything else that you could want. This one has 110 hours.
My wife has demanded that I sell one of my planes within the next 30 days. I also
have a 1939 Piper J4 Cub Coupe with full documentation and appx. 1800TT with
290hours on a full restoration. Currently I am asking $35,000 for any of these
aircraft. I will be listing one or two of them on Ebay within the next day
or so unless someone here has some interest.
I will be posting some pictures of these aircraft on my website www.flywv.com hopefully in the next few hours.
I will also be listing the exact model numbers on the instruments, radios and etc..
I am located in WV 12 miles NE of 3I4.
My phone number is:
304-644-4359 or 304-847-7765
Thanks,
Dwayne
[/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29171#29171
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Charging |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols@clearwave.ca>
Guy,
If you e-mail me off list with the serial no of your engine I can look it up
in a database to see if yours came equipped the resistor installed on the
stator.
>From whay your first post stated it sounds like you might have had the
regulator rectifier hooked up incorrectly.
The yellow and yellow/black A/C wires eminating from the stator (not to be
confused with the back/yellow shorting wires) go to the regulator rectifier.
The gray wire goes to the tach.
Hope this helps
Bob Robertson
Light Engine Services Ltd.
Rotax Service Center
Aero Control Enterprises, Inc.
St. Albert, Ab. T8N 1M8
Ph: (Tech Support) 1-780-418-4164
Ph: (Order Line) 1-866-418-4164 (TOLL FREE)
www.rtx-av-engines.ca
www.aerocontrols.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax Charging
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
> Guy, if I can add to this, when I built my M2 with early 582 engine it had
a
> resistor built into the stator assembly that tended to break very easily.
> It was a common problem on the early models that caused symptoms as you
> describe. It's been many years, but as I recall, the fix was to remove
the
> resistor and jumper it. I don't recall having to do anything else. Tach
> problems disappeared after that.
> Before tearing into your engine you might check into this with a Rotax
> expert.
> Deke
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marco Menezes" <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 9:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax Charging
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Guy, I'm looking at the simplified wiring schematic from Denny
> construction manual (page E-28) and it shows tach connected to gray wire
> coming from engine, through a 1K ohm resistor and 1/4 amp fuse. Solid
yellow
> and yellow/black 16 ga wires go to the regulator.
> >
> > Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted
by:
> Guy Buchanan
> >
> > All,
> > I started the Rotax 582 for the first time today, and everything
> > was fine but the tachometer and the charging. I'd like some help
> > de-bugging, if I may.
> >
> > Configuration: Rotax 582 grey head w/ 3-phase regulator wired per Z-17.
> GRT
> > EIS tach wire connected to yellow alternator output wire.
> >
> > First start: Tachometer reads 0. No variation in voltage switching
> > alternator in or out, regardless of RPM. Voltage about 12.9V.
> >
> > Disconnect regulator from alternator. Measure ACV across alternator and
> get
> > Rotax spec values. (~14 - 55 VAC depending on RPM.)
> >
> > Re-connect regulator input wires and disconnect output wire and measure
> > voltage between it and ground: ~5 VDC invariant with RPM. Note that the
> EIS
> > RPM is now working.
> > Re-connect the output wire and clip DC volt meter between the regulator
> > output and ground: ~ 14.1 VDC at idle, decreasing to about 5 VDC at
higher
> > RPM. EIS RPM is 0 again.
> > Basically I'm clueless as to how to diagnose whether the charging
> > system is working beyond the alternator output. Any help would be
> > appreciated. I think whatever's influencing the charging is probably
> > inhibiting the EIS RPM input, as well.
> > Thanks,
> > Guy Buchanan
> > K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
I'm building a hangar on a tight budget and I'm stuck on a hangar door solution.
Bifolds start at $3k so that's out. Anyone have any experience with 'do it yourself'
hangar doors?
I once built a pair of sliding doors for a horse barn using half inch plywood and
a 2x6 frame but a single 10x6 door weighed close to 100 lb. I can get by with
a pair of 16 ft doors and a really big shoehorn to get my Model 4 in the hangar.
Any ideas?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29229#29229
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Build yourself a bi-fold using a steel frame welded together and sheet it with
metal. Its rather simple to do and when your done you have something worth while.
I have a hanger with a wood frame door and it's a pain in the butt. I also
have a hanger with a Schweiss bi-fold door which is great. I have a friend who
duplicated a commercially built bi-fold and it works just as good as the Schweiss.
Dee Young
Model II
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: wingnut<mailto:wingnut@spamarrest.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Budget hangar door ideas?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com<mailto:wingnut@spamarrest.com>>
I'm building a hangar on a tight budget and I'm stuck on a hangar door solution.
Bifolds start at $3k so that's out. Anyone have any experience with 'do it
yourself' hangar doors?
I once built a pair of sliding doors for a horse barn using half inch plywood
and a 2x6 frame but a single 10x6 door weighed close to 100 lb. I can get by
with a pair of 16 ft doors and a really big shoehorn to get my Model 4 in the
hangar. Any ideas?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29229#29229<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29229#29229>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb@cox.net>
Better yet, sheet it with those wavy plastic panels, use for roofing, at the
builders supply. It would be lighter, easy to repair, and let light in.
You could build tracks at the top and bottom, and roll them open and closed.
This way the weight is supported by the trucks, and you're just moving them,
not trying to lift them.
Bradley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dee Young
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Budget hangar door ideas?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
Build yourself a bi-fold using a steel frame welded together and sheet it
with metal. Its rather simple to do and when your done you have something
worth while. I have a hanger with a wood frame door and it's a pain in the
butt. I also have a hanger with a Schweiss bi-fold door which is great. I
have a friend who duplicated a commercially built bi-fold and it works just
as good as the Schweiss.
Dee Young
Model II
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: wingnut<mailto:wingnut@spamarrest.com>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Budget hangar door ideas?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut"
<wingnut@spamarrest.com<mailto:wingnut@spamarrest.com>>
I'm building a hangar on a tight budget and I'm stuck on a hangar door
solution. Bifolds start at $3k so that's out. Anyone have any experience
with 'do it yourself' hangar doors?
I once built a pair of sliding doors for a horse barn using half inch
plywood and a 2x6 frame but a single 10x6 door weighed close to 100 lb. I
can get by with a pair of 16 ft doors and a really big shoehorn to get my
Model 4 in the hangar. Any ideas?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29229#29229<http://forums.matr
onics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29229#29229>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex Hefferan" <gypsybee@copper.net>
I don't have complete information for you, however I have done some research. There
is a company named The Ultimate Door, Inc. which can supply a kit. There
is at least 1 person on this list which has a door from them and stated he was
very happy with it.
http://ultimatedoor.homestead.com/ultimate.html
Theirs is a single panel door and I perferred a bi-fold. Like you I'm resistant
to spend $3K for a garage door, but my garage would benefit from the bi-fold
features more than any other design. I figured that if I could build a kit plane
how much trouble could it be to design and build a garage door? ( I don't
know the answer quite yet :) )
I'm planning on building my own home made Bi-fold door for my garage door opening
which is 16 X 8 feet. I haven't had time to complete the concept, but I was
thinking of using 1" square tubing as the basis for the 2 frames and 2 wall
polycarbonate to skin the frames.
Hey, I just noticed as I was writing this on the forum page that Dee mentioned
a friend who duplicated a Schwiess door. Maybe he could get some details?
Rex
Florida
--------
Rex
N740GP - M2/582
Colorado
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29242#29242
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
Wingnut,
Some food for thought, I have seen several low dollar hanger door ideas, 1)
Use two 16' fiberglass garage doors side by side, outside rails are fixed
and the inside rails are mounted on a swing up center post. When the doors
are up the center post is swung up and latched to allow a 32' opening. 2)
Swing up door sections that are framed and covered with light fiberglass
panels, uses a cable and boat winch to lift, heard of the same thing covered
in non-certified aircraft cover.
----- Original Message -----
From: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 5:03 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Budget hangar door ideas?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
>
> I'm building a hangar on a tight budget and I'm stuck on a hangar door
> solution. Bifolds start at $3k so that's out. Anyone have any experience
> with 'do it yourself' hangar doors?
>
> I once built a pair of sliding doors for a horse barn using half inch
> plywood and a 2x6 frame but a single 10x6 door weighed close to 100 lb. I
> can get by with a pair of 16 ft doors and a really big shoehorn to get my
> Model 4 in the hangar. Any ideas?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29229#29229
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Richard Rabbers" <rira1950@yahoo.com>
Garage door shopss tend to toss away a lot of good doors. I hate waste!
Many shops accumulate old doors then toss them all.
My 'preferred model' has fiberglass panels and is translucent. For a hanger door
the panels could be joined or free to hinge depending on your design. The fiber
glass type usually has an aluminum framework so very light. Sliding, bi-fold,
or standard garage OHD. all options. Materials free!
--------
Richard in SW Michigan
Model 1 / 618 - full-lotus floats (restoration)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29247#29247
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
I might be interested in attempting to duplicate the bifold idea with a good set
of plans or even an example to copy. Anyone in the Greenville, SC vicinity with
a bifold that I can examine?
That UltimateDoor looks like it might be a good option as well. Looks like it's
made of wood which is a plus since I've never done any welding. I guess $35 for
a set of plans is a safe bet just to see some details of the lift mechanism.
Thanks for the help guys.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29250#29250
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Luis,
I live in an air park and almost all of the houses have hangars attached.
We have bifold, rolling and roll-up here. Mine is roll-up. Actually it is
a pair of 16 ft wide garage doors that moves into the ceiling of the hanger.
My door is about 12 feet tall. The trick is that the center pillar - track
for the guide wheels will move out of the way with both doors up. It is on
a track with an indexing fixture at the top and a pin that goes into the
floor at the bottom to secure itin the center position. The track is sloped
to the side so that when the pillar is moved it elevates it about 6 inches
when it is fully at the side and there is a detent on the floor there for
the pin also. This secures it in the side position.
The only issue with this set-up is that you are in pretty deep do-do if you
start to lower the doors with the pillar still at the side. I have solved
this by always lowering the left door (the door nearest the side stowed
pillar) first. It won't go down as there is an interference on that side.
Experience has taught me this. Both my doors are manually opened by chains
that rotate wheels on the top.
A neighbor has my door and uses power to roll his up. He has figured a way
to have the center pillar swing up to the side using a cable attached some
how to his electric system. The only negative on that is that the cable is
visible as a diagonal line in front of the door when it is closed.
I don't know how much this cost, but a quick check of garage door companies
would give an estimate. If you are interested in this idea I would be happy
to take some photos and send them direct.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Budget hangar door ideas?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut" <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
>
> I'm building a hangar on a tight budget and I'm stuck on a hangar door
> solution. Bifolds start at $3k so that's out. Anyone have any experience
> with 'do it yourself' hangar doors?
>
> I once built a pair of sliding doors for a horse barn using half inch
> plywood and a 2x6 frame but a single 10x6 door weighed close to 100 lb. I
> can get by with a pair of 16 ft doors and a really big shoehorn to get my
> Model 4 in the hangar. Any ideas?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29229#29229
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Grant Fluent <gjfpilot@yahoo.com>
Hi,
I have some bi-fold door info if you're interested.
My local EAA Chapter had planned at one time to build
a hanger and since I do mechanical
designing/engineering for a living, I did the plans
for the building and the door. I looked at about half
a dozen different doors at a few airports and drew
what I needed on the computer.
Grant Fluent
Newcastle, NE
Classic IV 912ULS
--- wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingnut"
> <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
>
> I might be interested in attempting to duplicate the
> bifold idea with a good set of plans or even an
> example to copy. Anyone in the Greenville, SC
> vicinity with a bifold that I can examine?
>
> That UltimateDoor looks like it might be a good
> option as well. Looks like it's made of wood which
> is a plus since I've never done any welding. I guess
> $35 for a set of plans is a safe bet just to see
> some details of the lift mechanism.
>
> Thanks for the help guys.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29250#29250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Low speed setting 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Hi All,
For the 582 pilots , Where have you got your low speed mix set? 1 Turn? 1 1/4
turn? Mine is set to 1 turn and seems ruff under 3000 rpm!
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
---------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
Hi,
I have some bi-fold door info if you're interested.
My local EAA Chapter had planned at one time to build
a hanger and since I do mechanical
designing/engineering for a living, I did the plans
for the building and the door. I looked at about half
a dozen different doors at a few airports and drew
what I needed on the computer.
Grant Fluent
Newcastle, NE
Classic IV 912ULS
<snip>
Would love to see your plans...am a steel draftsman myself...but have
learned to not reinvent the wheel unless you have to ;-)
Am about to have to build a door myself and am tickled that this
discussion came up...hadn't thought about asking a bunch of PILOTS about
hangar doors (DOH!!!) I was sitting around thinking about how to
reinvent the wheel ;-)
Jeremy Casey
Jeremy@kilocharlie.us
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Low speed setting 582 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Malcolmbru@aol.com
idle jet wont chang a rough runing engin. An B gear box with a lot of
hours on it and big heavy prop will run rough. or a un balanced prop. go
to kodiacbs.com mal
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Rex <gypsybee@copper.net>
I'm interested in your plans too. Also once was a draftsman.
Rex
Florida
Jeremy Casey wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
>
>Hi,
> I have some bi-fold door info if you're interested.
>My local EAA Chapter had planned at one time to build
>a hanger and since I do mechanical
>designing/engineering for a living, I did the plans
>for the building and the door. I looked at about half
>a dozen different doors at a few airports and drew
>what I needed on the computer.
>Grant Fluent
>Newcastle, NE
>Classic IV 912ULS
>
>
><snip>
>
>Would love to see your plans...am a steel draftsman myself...but have
>learned to not reinvent the wheel unless you have to ;-)
>
>Am about to have to build a door myself and am tickled that this
>discussion came up...hadn't thought about asking a bunch of PILOTS about
>hangar doors (DOH!!!) I was sitting around thinking about how to
>reinvent the wheel ;-)
>
>Jeremy Casey
>Jeremy@kilocharlie.us
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Karla and Rex Hefferan
Gypsy Bee Innkeepers
719-651-5198 or 719-651-9192
Message 22
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| Subject: | Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt@kilocharlie.us>
Better yet, sheet it with those wavy plastic panels, use for roofing, at
the
builders supply. It would be lighter, easy to repair, and let light in.
<snip>
Food for thought...the translucent wavy panels let more light in...which
means more UV exposure for the fabric. Heck it might decrease the life
of your fabric by .7 minutes.
I'm just thinking out loud so don't call me bad names...I also once read
that florescent lights were as bad as sunlight as far as UV goes...don't
have any reference to back that up either.
I keep my plane in a blacked out box and use night vision goggles to
move around it (big ;-)
Jeremy Casey
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Budget hangar door ideas? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <sonex321@msn.com>
Hi Wingnut,
When I had my Kitfox in an old wooden T hangar, I made a "cheapy door" out
of 1x2s and 3 mil plastic. Later I used 6 mil plastic which is still
working for the current hangar renter after at least 4 years.
For the first "half door", I stapled one plastic end to a 1x2, rolled the
plastic around the 1x2 a few times, added a few more staples, then screwed
another 1x2 to the first one. I measured and cut off excess plastic so the
rest would extend just past the middle of the hangar. Next I stapled
another 1x2 to that end, rolled a few turns, and stapled again. I took
another sheet of plastic and made another "half door" just like the first.
Then the 2 ends of each half door with only one 1x2 were screwed together
temporarily, with the plastic of each making a straight line from one half
door to the other to eliminate twisting. Test for length that encloses the
hangar, and adjust center connection for best fit. Then add nails on each
side of the hangar (assumes wooden hangar!), drill holes in door ends and
add rope which ties to the nails, securing the full door to the hangar. I
left one side tied all the time and untied the other end to access the Fox.
I also had a rope tying the top of the door's center posts to the top of the
hangar.
This may seem like lots of work, but it was a real cheap solution which is
still working after 8-9 years!
Have fun,
bh
ex N194KF, 582ed IV-1200, 800+ hrs
> I'm building a hangar on a tight budget and I'm stuck on a hangar door
> solution. Bifolds start at $3k so that's out. Anyone have any experience
> with 'do it yourself' hangar doors?
>
> I once built a pair of sliding doors for a horse barn using half inch
> plywood and a 2x6 frame but a single 10x6 door weighed close to 100 lb. I
> can get by with a pair of 16 ft doors and a really big shoehorn to get my
> Model 4 in the hangar. Any ideas?
Message 24
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
1. What egt do you like to see at cruise?
2. Do you tolerate seeing an occasional transitory increase to or
beyond 1200?
3. What is your max acceptable egt at anytime/duration?
4. How low of a temp do you accept?
5. What temperature variation (range) do you accept?
Have you personally seen, or have evidence to support your comfort
levels?
Thanks,
Larry
Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "QSS" <msm@byterocky.net>
Hi Guys, I need some help with info about the welded threaded bolt attached to
the wing strut end. I need to replace them and Im not sure how to go about it.
As there such a critical part Im not prepared to just weld a bolt on and hope
for the best. Can anyone share their thoughts as to how to do this please.
Thanks
Graeme
Message 26
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
All,
I've got a data plate from ACS which has all sorts of "extra"
information on it, such as Date of Mfg. Engine, H.P. Empty and Gross Wt.
Name and address of builder. I can fill it all out, excepting, of course,
the date of manufacture, but EAA thinks I only need the builder's name, the
model designation, and the serial number. Any reason I should or shouldn't
fill it all out?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 27
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| Subject: | See where all our friends are on my Friend Map! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: hausding <avidsid@yahoo.com>
hausding started a Friend Map on Frappr so your friends can all see each other
on a map. Come put yourself on the map!
To see hausding's Friend Map, click below or paste the url into a browser:
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