Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:09 AM - Re: PVC strut fairings? (John Anderson)
2. 01:09 AM - Re: Overheating (John Anderson)
3. 02:47 AM - Re: A Sad Story... (Larry Huntley)
4. 04:13 AM - Re: Hardware for Wheelpants (Fox5flyer)
5. 04:26 AM - Re: Hardware for Wheelpants (Lynn Matteson)
6. 05:45 AM - Lexan/glue (Larry Martin)
7. 05:45 AM - Re: A Sad Story... (Harold Flynn)
8. 05:59 AM - Re: Fitting the Windscreen on KF IV (Algate)
9. 07:04 AM - Re: A Sad Story... (Alan Daniels)
10. 07:28 AM - Re: Overheating (Floran Higgins)
11. 07:31 AM - Re: Hardware for Wheelpants (Jimmie Blackwell)
12. 08:16 AM - Re: KF IV Windscreen (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
13. 09:38 AM - Re: Lexan/glue (Guy Buchanan)
14. 12:10 PM - Re: Overheating (John Anderson)
15. 01:39 PM - Re: Overheating (kurt schrader)
16. 02:40 PM - Re: off topic - Politics. (Michel Verheughe)
17. 02:40 PM - Re: Overheating (John Anderson)
18. 03:06 PM - Interior Options? (darinh)
19. 03:43 PM - Re: Interior Options? (Brett Walmsley)
20. 04:07 PM - Windscreen fitting - Thanks! (Colin Durey)
21. 04:44 PM - Re: Re: Interior Options? (Fred Shiple)
22. 04:51 PM - tires (DeWayne Clifford)
23. 05:39 PM - Re: Re: Interior Options? (wingsdown)
24. 06:49 PM - Re: Interior Options? (jdmcbean)
25. 06:52 PM - Im that guy (davyken@comcast.net)
26. 08:01 PM - Aircraft Sale (ROBERT OLIVER)
Message 1
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| Subject: | PVC strut fairings? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
I used timber and covered, easy..John A.
From: "RaNDY Frost" <jamesrfrost@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: PVC strut fairings?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RaNDY Frost" <jamesrfrost@hotmail.com>
Hey Guys: Where could I get the PVC strut fairings for my Kitfox 3. I'd
gladly pay $20 + shipping.
Frosty from Gainesville, GA
>From: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: PVC strut fairings?
>Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 15:29:19 -0400
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
>
>
>I have the same PVC kit installed on my plane and can say that it has
>worked
>fine for me - not only did I get an immediate increase in speed the
>installation was a breeze and I had them installed in a couple of hrs.
>
>I had mine painted with auto Urethane -(mixed with the softener used for
>plastic trim) 3 years now with no problems.
>
>I paid a lot more than $20.......
>
>GaryA
>Lite2
>
>Margaret,
>I have a complete fairing kit I will sell you for $20 plus shipping. It
>includes instructions and metal for blending in the lower end where the
>struts meet.
>
>I didn't use the kit because the PVC is heavy! I used plastic door trim
>and
>covered it with fabric. I would have saved lots of time using the PVC
>though.
>
>Let me know if you are interested.
>
>Randy - Black Hills of South Dakota
>
>
>.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Margaret
>Hastedt
>Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 11:53 AM
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Kitfox-List: PVC strut fairings?
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Margaret Hastedt"
><hastedt@iodp.tamu.edu>
>
>Hi gang,
>
>Does anyone know where I could buy some of the PVC lift strut fairings?
>I've got some aluminum ones already, but they're quite heavy and I sure
>don't need more weight. Or are there alternatives to PVC/aluminum out
>there?
>
>Thanks!
>
>
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_________________________________________________________________
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Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Interesting Kurt, my oil temp sender is in the sump also plus I'm running a
turbo. I have a water to oil heat exchanger so hopefully it'll keep the oil
temp up in winter..I always do a good 2 min rundown with the idea of cooling
the turbo down but then as you say, in the auto arena never given a
thought..John A.
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Overheating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Well, I almost got it right John. I should have asked
the oil experts for their opinion here.
What is the best oil temp range?
My oil temps are 210-230F (99-110C) in warm weather
and down to 140F in cold. I would like to keep them
at 190-210F myself, so I got the oil thermostat, but
need a little more cooling too. My temp is taken at
the pan, so I expect the oil temp to go higher,
especially thru the turbo, and boil the water off,
then cool.
The turbo is over 400F after shutdown and I worry
about the oil that sits in it gumming up the works.
Maybe an electric oil pump to keep it circulating
after shutdown would be useful. But then we dont see
any of this in automotive use that I know of.
Just thinking.....
Kurt S. S-5 NSI turbo
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Thanks for that Kurt, good point. I have cooling
>tubes through the sump that have air blowing through
>so I'll plug one up and try. John A.
__________________________________________________
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: A Sad Story... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
Thanx for the heads up on the Loctite. I had the same experience with LP
Aero when I became a little too enthusiastic installing a windshield in a
Funk. Sold me the second one at 1/2 price. I was satisfied.
Larry Huntley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn@nethere.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 12:48 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: A Sad Story...
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> I wanted to relate a sad story with a happy ending.
>
> I bought the LP Aero bubble doors for my IV about 6 months ago and spent a
> few weeks installing them. I thought they looked quite nice, as I had all
> the edges polished, the frames painted in LP, and about 10 rivnuts
> receiving black button head cap screws holding the plastic to the frame.
> About three weeks ago I noticed the paint bubbling on the rivnuts. About a
> week ago I noticed cracks radiating from all the attach screws. I emailed
> LP Aero, telling them my process, and Jeff Pfister responded that:
>
> "Your problem was positively caused by the Loctite. Loctite has really
> nasty chemical components that will craze and crack acrylic plastic even
> if
> it is not in direct contact with the Loctite itself, but only in close
> proximity. Apparently it does a number on the paint (which is itself just
> another type of plastic) also.
>
> We warn against the use of Loctite in the Kitfox installation instructions
> on page 2 under "finishing"."
>
> We swapped emails back and forth about possible repairs, but it became
> clear that I was seriously screwed. It was my own fault. I had read the
> directions but had completely brain-farted the Loctite warning. I had used
> Loctite because the rivnuts had no thread locking capacity.
>
> Anyway, the happy ending. After the back and forth, Jeff graciously
> offered
> a discount on a new set of doors; what he called their "hardship
> discount",
> (I can imagine what they call it in private,) which I enthusiastically
> accepted. (Jeff said, and I confirmed, that the cracks would radiate out
> indefinitely. There were so many that stop-drilling would have resulted in
> about 5-10 holes per attach hole. In one case the entire hole was
> shattered, and I was afraid the #6 attach screw would just pull through.)
>
> So hat's off and a big thank you to LP Aero for good instructions, for
> supporting Kitfox's, and for superb customer service.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.6/324 - Release Date: 4/25/2006
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hardware for Wheelpants |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Jimmie, is that for the tube or spring gear?
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jimmieblackwell@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:27 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Hardware for Wheelpants
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jimmie Blackwell
<jimmieblackwell@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Still trying to find hardware kit for wheel pants. Anyone out there that
has this hardware and is willing to part with it, I will be happy to buy.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Hardware for Wheelpants |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Hi Jimmie-
I made my own brackets and have some pictures that I could send to you.
It was mostly a seat-of-the-pants...ouch, I really didn't see that bad
pun coming...really...engineering operation. Let me know if you want to
go to the trouble of doing it this way. I welded the brackets up out of
4130 stock that I got from Spruce, and reinforced the pants with
aluminum doublers that I fiberglassed in place inside the wheelpants.
Or I could send the pertinent pics to Don for a Sportflight posting, if
it is warranted.
Lynn
On Wednesday, April 26, 2006, at 10:27 PM, Jimmie Blackwell wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jimmie Blackwell
> <jimmieblackwell@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Still trying to find hardware kit for wheel pants. Anyone out there
> that has this hardware and is willing to part with it, I will be happy
> to buy.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ@verizon.net>
I had read in Sport Aviation of a RV builder who used automotive glass =
windshield glue on his RV canopy WITHOUT using any screws/rivits. He =
had great success.
I tried it on my side windows, as rivets were no longer securing the =
glass (I fly doors open more often than not). It worked great. I have =
more hours on it now glued than with the rivets, and have had no =
problems.
Larry
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Harold Flynn <hflynn46531@yahoo.com>
I had a problom that I created when I cracked my windshield from LP Aero when installing
it. I called them and Jeff helped me in the same manner. These are great
people to do bussiness. They really helped me in my time of great need. Harold
Flynn. S-5
Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
"Don Pearsall"
Wow, Guy, I did not know that about Locktite and plastic. Thanks for telling
us your story. Kudos to LP too!
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: A Sad Story...
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
I wanted to relate a sad story with a happy ending.
I bought the LP Aero bubble doors for my IV about 6 months ago and spent a
few weeks installing them. I thought they looked quite nice, as I had all
the edges polished, the frames painted in LP, and about 10 rivnuts
receiving black button head cap screws holding the plastic to the frame.
About three weeks ago I noticed the paint bubbling on the rivnuts. About a
week ago I noticed cracks radiating from all the attach screws. I emailed
LP Aero, telling them my process, and Jeff Pfister responded that:
"Your problem was positively caused by the Loctite. Loctite has really
nasty chemical components that will craze and crack acrylic plastic even if
it is not in direct contact with the Loctite itself, but only in close
proximity. Apparently it does a number on the paint (which is itself just
another type of plastic) also.
We warn against the use of Loctite in the Kitfox installation instructions
on page 2 under "finishing"."
We swapped emails back and forth about possible repairs, but it became
clear that I was seriously screwed. It was my own fault. I had read the
directions but had completely brain-farted the Loctite warning. I had used
Loctite because the rivnuts had no thread locking capacity.
Anyway, the happy ending. After the back and forth, Jeff graciously offered
a discount on a new set of doors; what he called their "hardship discount",
(I can imagine what they call it in private,) which I enthusiastically
accepted. (Jeff said, and I confirmed, that the cracks would radiate out
indefinitely. There were so many that stop-drilling would have resulted in
about 5-10 holes per attach hole. In one case the entire hole was
shattered, and I was afraid the #6 attach screw would just pull through.)
So hat's off and a big thank you to LP Aero for good instructions, for
supporting Kitfox's, and for superb customer service.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
---------------------------------
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2/min with
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fitting the Windscreen on KF IV |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Colin
I used to have the panel tank filler right in front of my windscreen and
during the warm summer months any minute spill of gas onto the windscreen
while filling resulted in crazing of the lexan. That being the case over a
period of two years I replaced my screen 3 times?? I have since done away
with this filler.............
Anyway that was just a background to let you know I have some experience in
fitting the windscreen
I use 1/8" tinted lexan (same as supplied with my kit) and as you point out
it is very stiff and looks like it will break when you try to bend down and
around to the vertical supports.
It won't!
I have found that a warm day works best but I don't apply any heat while
fitting. Basically I position the cut screen over the top and rivet at the
rear once I am satisfied with placement. Then I put the upright stainless
steel fairings in place and bend and slide the lexan into position each
side. I hold it in place initially with C clamps and fitted the front cowl
to make sure the fit between the windscreen and the cowl was right. Once
satisfied I drilled through the upright locations and bolted each side.
Then I completed all of the top riveting.
I do use a heat gun to relieve the stress in the two upper corners once
everything is in place and this seems to work really well - You can actually
see when the tension relieves under heat although it takes quite a lot. (I
practiced with scraps first but it is pretty forgiving)
I have subsequently replaced two of my friends windscreens and the last one
took 1 hour from the time we removed the old one and had the new one in
place.
Hope this helps
G.Algate
Lite2/582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Colin Durey
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fitting the Windscreen on KF IV
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Hi Guys!,
Making steady progress with the build of my KF IV, and am presently trying
to fit the windscreen.
Bending the screen down at the front is fine, but when I start pushing it
back on the sides to make it meet the upper door pillars, I get very
aprehensive at the look of the compound curve that forms near the wing
attach point. There seems to be an awfull lot of tension there. I have not
been brave enough to try and push the sides all the way back - I have
visions a large crack appearing across the curve accompanied by a loud
snapping sound.
Are there any tips to doing this successfully? Is it OK to use a hot air
gun to try and ease the Lexan into the curve? Are there any long term
negative effects from using heat?
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A Sad Story... |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Alan Daniels <aldaniels@fmtcblue.com>
I have been looking to replace the windshield on my PA28 and have been
trying to decide what brand to use. With help like what I am hearing
about LP has my business.
Alan
Harold Flynn wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Harold Flynn <hflynn46531@yahoo.com>
>
> I had a problom that I created when I cracked my windshield from LP Aero when
installing it. I called them and Jeff helped me in the same manner. These are
great people to do bussiness. They really helped me in my time of great need.
Harold Flynn. S-5
>
> Don Pearsall <donpearsall@comcast.net> wrote: --> Kitfox-List message posted
by: "Don Pearsall"
>
> Wow, Guy, I did not know that about Locktite and plastic. Thanks for telling
> us your story. Kudos to LP too!
>
> Don Pearsall
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy Buchanan
> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 9:48 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: A Sad Story...
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
>
> I wanted to relate a sad story with a happy ending.
>
> I bought the LP Aero bubble doors for my IV about 6 months ago and spent a
> few weeks installing them. I thought they looked quite nice, as I had all
> the edges polished, the frames painted in LP, and about 10 rivnuts
> receiving black button head cap screws holding the plastic to the frame.
> About three weeks ago I noticed the paint bubbling on the rivnuts. About a
> week ago I noticed cracks radiating from all the attach screws. I emailed
> LP Aero, telling them my process, and Jeff Pfister responded that:
>
> "Your problem was positively caused by the Loctite. Loctite has really
> nasty chemical components that will craze and crack acrylic plastic even if
> it is not in direct contact with the Loctite itself, but only in close
> proximity. Apparently it does a number on the paint (which is itself just
> another type of plastic) also.
>
> We warn against the use of Loctite in the Kitfox installation instructions
> on page 2 under "finishing"."
>
> We swapped emails back and forth about possible repairs, but it became
> clear that I was seriously screwed. It was my own fault. I had read the
> directions but had completely brain-farted the Loctite warning. I had used
> Loctite because the rivnuts had no thread locking capacity.
>
> Anyway, the happy ending. After the back and forth, Jeff graciously offered
> a discount on a new set of doors; what he called their "hardship discount",
> (I can imagine what they call it in private,) which I enthusiastically
> accepted. (Jeff said, and I confirmed, that the cracks would radiate out
> indefinitely. There were so many that stop-drilling would have resulted in
> about 5-10 holes per attach hole. In one case the entire hole was
> shattered, and I was afraid the #6 attach screw would just pull through.)
>
> So hat's off and a big thank you to LP Aero for good instructions, for
> supporting Kitfox's, and for superb customer service.
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2/min
with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
When I used to fly a helicopter with a turbocharger, it was standard
procedure to let the engine run just above idle for five minutes after
landing, to cool the turbo. If you didn't the oil in the turbo would turn to
coke and take out the bearings.
Floran H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Overheating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Well, I almost got it right John. I should have asked
> the oil experts for their opinion here.
>
> What is the best oil temp range?
>
> My oil temps are 210-230F (99-110C) in warm weather
> and down to 140F in cold. I would like to keep them
> at 190-210F myself, so I got the oil thermostat, but
> need a little more cooling too. My temp is taken at
> the pan, so I expect the oil temp to go higher,
> especially thru the turbo, and boil the water off,
> then cool.
>
> The turbo is over 400F after shutdown and I worry
> about the oil that sits in it gumming up the works.
> Maybe an electric oil pump to keep it circulating
> after shutdown would be useful. But then we dont see
> any of this in automotive use that I know of.
>
> Just thinking.....
>
> Kurt S. S-5 NSI turbo
>
> --- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for that Kurt, good point. I have cooling
>> tubes through the sump that have air blowing through
>> so I'll plug one up and try. John A.
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Hardware for Wheelpants |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jimmie Blackwell <jimmieblackwell@sbcglobal.net>
Deke
It is for the spring gear.
Jimmie
Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
Jimmie, is that for the tube or spring gear?
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmie Blackwell"
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:27 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Hardware for Wheelpants
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jimmie Blackwell
>
> Still trying to find hardware kit for wheel pants. Anyone out there that
has this hardware and is willing to part with it, I will be happy to buy.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Jimmie
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: KF IV Windscreen |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
the tendancy is to try to fit the windscreen to tightly around the spar attach
point. Relieving windscreen to match the spar is the minimum. You will be better
served to look at the size/shape of the butt rib as just beyond the maximum,
arriving there incrimentally.
John Kerr
Crazed Windscreen, 725 hours later
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey"
>
> Thanks guys. I apreciate the info.
>
> I think I need to enlarge the cutout somewhat before I proceed.
>
> Graeme - I'll take a few shots today and send them to you.
>
> I haven't actually fired up the engine yet, but am close to that. I am
> finishing off the radiator connections, and having a few problems plumbing
> the connection between the right front cyclinder and the pump, as well as
> the inlet to the pump which comes from the radiator. These two connections
> basically point straight at the right rear exhaust pipe, which is only
> about 5 - 6 inches away. Anyone else out there have any
> suggestions/solutions on this problem?
>
> I am also fitting a cabin heater that was included with the kit, but it's
> a bit complicated, and there are absolutely no notes/instructions included
> in the documentation I have.
>
> Regards
>
> Colin Durey
> Sydney
> +61-418-677073 (M)
> +61-2-945466162 (F)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>the tendancy is to try to fit the windscreen to tightly around the spar attach
point. Relieving windscreen to match the spar is the minimum. You will be
better served to look at the size/shape of the butt rib as just beyond the maximum,
arriving there incrimentally.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Kerr</DIV>
<DIV>Crazed Windscreen, 725 hours later</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Colin Durey"
<colin@ptclhk.com> <BR><BR>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by:
"Colin Durey" <COLIN@PTCLHK.COM><BR>> <BR>> Thanks guys. I apreciate the
info. <BR>> <BR>> I think I need to enlarge the cutout somewhat before
I proceed. <BR>> <BR>> Graeme - I'll take a few shots today and send them
to you. <BR>> <BR>> I haven't actually fired up the engine yet, but am
close to that. I am <BR>> finishing off the radiator connections, and having
a few problems plumbing <BR>> the connection between the right front cyclinder
and the pump, as well as <BR>> the inlet to the pump which comes from
the radiator. These two connections <BR>> basically point straight at the
right rear exhaust pipe, which is only <BR>> about 5 - 6 inches away. Anyone
else out there have any <BR>> suggestions/solut
ions o
mail L
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 05:43 AM 4/27/2006, you wrote:
> I tried it on my side windows, as rivets were no longer securing the =
>glass (I fly doors open more often than not). It worked great. I have =
>more hours on it now glued than with the rivets, and have had no =
>problems.
I bought the 3M double sided tape for use on my side windows, but didn't
have the courage to leave out all fasteners. It's a thought...
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Being a helicopter jocky my self...slight differance with a heli is that on
landing and hovering the engine is working at near max capacity, but with an
aeroplane the engine tends to be a low power before shutdown. But you do
have a good point Floran. John A.
From: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Overheating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
When I used to fly a helicopter with a turbocharger, it was standard
procedure to let the engine run just above idle for five minutes after
landing, to cool the turbo. If you didn't the oil in the turbo would turn to
coke and take out the bearings.
Floran H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Overheating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Well, I almost got it right John. I should have asked
> the oil experts for their opinion here.
>
> What is the best oil temp range?
>
> My oil temps are 210-230F (99-110C) in warm weather
> and down to 140F in cold. I would like to keep them
> at 190-210F myself, so I got the oil thermostat, but
> need a little more cooling too. My temp is taken at
> the pan, so I expect the oil temp to go higher,
> especially thru the turbo, and boil the water off,
> then cool.
>
> The turbo is over 400F after shutdown and I worry
> about the oil that sits in it gumming up the works.
> Maybe an electric oil pump to keep it circulating
> after shutdown would be useful. But then we dont see
> any of this in automotive use that I know of.
>
> Just thinking.....
>
> Kurt S. S-5 NSI turbo
>
> --- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for that Kurt, good point. I have cooling
>> tubes through the sump that have air blowing through
>> so I'll plug one up and try. John A.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Check out the latest video @ http://xtra.co.nz/streaming
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I like Florans point too. But we do cool down better
descending to land and on taxi back. Even then the
turbo is hot on shutdown. I let it run for a minute
even then. Cooking the oil at 450F cant be good.
I wonder about turning the engine over with the
starter every minute for a bit, but then I would
probably just cook more oil when it stops.
Still thinking about that electric oil pump operating
until the turbo is below 250 would be good? Or just
more weight and something to fail?
What I do right now is open my 2 cowl service doors
and face the plane into the wind to let it cool down
faster before putting it away.
kurt S. Another old helo jock.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Being a helicopter jocky my self...slight differance
> with a heli is that on landing and hovering the
> engine is working at near max capacity, but with an
> aeroplane the engine tends to be a low power before
> shutdown. But you do have a good point Floran.
John A.
>
>
> From: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
> When I used to fly a helicopter with a turbocharger,
> it was standard procedure to let the engine run just
> above idle for five minutes after
> landing, to cool the turbo. If you didn't the oil in
> the turbo would turn to coke and take out the
> bearings.
>
> Floran H.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: off topic - Politics. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
On Apr 26, 2006, at 10:40 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
> I will now self-inflict several wounds....
My dear friend, I hope that, by now, your wounds have stopped bleeding.
Please be assured that I will always read you, off-topic or not, with
great pleasure.
Yours, sincerely,
Michel
do not archive
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Is your turbo water cooled Kurt? I added a louver vent in the upper cowl &
it has sure helped getting rid of the residual heat after shut down. John A.
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Overheating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I like Florans point too. But we do cool down better
descending to land and on taxi back. Even then the
turbo is hot on shutdown. I let it run for a minute
even then. Cooking the oil at 450F cant be good.
I wonder about turning the engine over with the
starter every minute for a bit, but then I would
probably just cook more oil when it stops.
Still thinking about that electric oil pump operating
until the turbo is below 250 would be good? Or just
more weight and something to fail?
What I do right now is open my 2 cowl service doors
and face the plane into the wind to let it cool down
faster before putting it away.
kurt S. Another old helo jock.
--- John Anderson <janderson412@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Being a helicopter jocky my self...slight differance
> with a heli is that on landing and hovering the
> engine is working at near max capacity, but with an
> aeroplane the engine tends to be a low power before
> shutdown. But you do have a good point Floran.
John A.
>
>
> From: "Floran Higgins" <cliffh@outdrs.net>
> When I used to fly a helicopter with a turbocharger,
> it was standard procedure to let the engine run just
> above idle for five minutes after
> landing, to cool the turbo. If you didn't the oil in
> the turbo would turn to coke and take out the
> bearings.
>
> Floran H.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
_________________________________________________________________
Check out the latest video @ http://xtra.co.nz/streaming
Message 18
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| Subject: | Interior Options? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Anyone know where I can get a good quality interior for an Series 7? I don't have
the foam or anything and I thought I would ask before I head out and make
my own (that is have my wife make me one, she sews better).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31207#31207
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Interior Options? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <n93hj@numail.org>
Sam Knight
Lost Wages, NV
Does anyone have his #?
I dumped it with a format of a hard drive
--------
Brett
Model IV 1200/912UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31216#31216
Message 20
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| Subject: | Windscreen fitting - Thanks! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Colin Durey" <colin@ptclhk.com>
Thanks to all for your responses re fitting the windscreen. I have put it
to the side for a few days while I attend to a few other bits. Re the warm
days suggestions... Sydney is in the Southern Hemisphere (much further
south than Gaeme who can go swimming with his Fox at any time of year) and
the warm days are behind us for a while so, the heat gun looks like the
only option at the moment.
Thanks again.. This list is the greatest.
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073 (M)
+61-2-945466162 (F)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Interior Options? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Fred Shiple <fredshiple@sbcglobal.net>
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS (702-207-6681)- old number
from 5 years ago.
fred
Does anyone have his #?
I dumped it with a format of a hard drive
Message 22
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "DeWayne Clifford" <kitfox@bresnan.net>
Thanks , Jimmie , Lynn , Shorty , Rex , for the quick reply . I did go =
to my frendly GoodYear tire dealer
and ask for the 18-6:50-8 and low and behold he found them in Billings =
MT ,He even had them picked up
and brought down to Casper for 27.50 ea. Thanks Guys for the help
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Interior Options? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "wingsdown" <wingsdown@comcast.net>
I have a complete custom leather interior for a model 5.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Shiple
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Interior Options?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Fred Shiple
--> <fredshiple@sbcglobal.net>
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS (702-207-6681)- old number
from 5 years ago.
fred
Does anyone have his #?
I dumped it with a format of a hard drive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Interior Options? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
We have all the new interior for the 4, 5, 6, and 7
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
www.sportplanellc.com
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of darinh
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Interior Options?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Anyone know where I can get a good quality interior for an Series 7? I
don't have the foam or anything and I thought I would ask before I head out
and make my own (that is have my wife make me one, she sews better).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31207#31207
--
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Message 25
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: davyken@comcast.net
I was determined not to be that guy. I really didnt want to be that guy. There
was no way I was going to be that guy. Im that guy. I bought my Kitfox Classic
IV at Oshkosh about 10 years ago. Ive been working on it ever since.
Ive been back on the list for a few days. Good to see some names I still recognize.
The big problem has been my job. Ive always traveled a lot. About four years
ago I got moved to a national team. I started traveling almost full time. Ive
only been home one full week since last Thanksgiving. Its tough to justify
spending time at the airport when you only have 48 hours a week to spend with
your family and do all the other things.
My IV has been almost done for a long time. Heres the problem. Ive been trying
to get my 912 running. For a long time I had nothing. Then I downloaded a
new wiring diagram from the Internet and found that the one from Skystar was missing
a ground wire from the starter solenoid. Once I put that in I could get
the engine to turn but it wont fire all the way. Its got to be something in
the ignition system. Its not getting a spark to the plugs.
Ill entertain all suggestions on what it could be or what else to try.
Good to be back,
Ken Davy
Kitfox Classic IV - 912
<html><body>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">I was determined not to be that
guy.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>I really didnt want to be that
guy.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>There was no way I was going
to be that guy.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Im that guy.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>I bought my Kitfox Classic IV at
Oshkosh about 10 years ago.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Ive been
working on it ever since.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"> <?xml:namespace prefix = o
ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Ive been back on the list for a
few days.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Good to see some names
I still recognize.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"> <o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">The big problem has been my job.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Ive always traveled a lot.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>About four years ago I got moved to a
national team.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>I started traveling
almost full time.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Ive only been
home one full week since last Thanksgiving.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">
</SPAN>Its tough to justify spending time at the airport when you only have
48 hours a week to spend with your family and do all the other things.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"> <o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">My IV has been almost done for a
long time.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Heres the problem.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Ive been trying to get my 912 running.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>For a long time I had nothing.<SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Then I downloaded a new wiring
diagram from the Internet and found that the one from Skystar was missing a ground
wire from the starter solenoid.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Once
I put that in I could get the engine to turn but it wont fire all the
way.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Its got to be something in
the ignition system.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Its not getting
a spark to the plugs.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"></SPAN> <o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Ill entertain all suggestions on
what it could be or what else to try.</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"> <o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Good to be back,</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Ken Davy</P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE:
12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New
Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language:
AR-SA">Kitfox Classic IV - 912</SPAN></DIV></body></html>
Message 26
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: ROBERT OLIVER <rocslo@sbcglobal.net>
I am selling my Series 6 With the Series 7 FWF kit. (I just finished building
a Vans RV 8A). This airplane has been above the Arctic Circle three times, Oshkosh
three times, and a number of trips to the Idaho back country and Mexico.The
A/c has the sloped cowling and is rigged in the nose wheel configuration.The
hobbs reads 929hrs and I have 397 hrs on a factory new Rotax 912S with the
slipper clutch, heavy duty starter Rotax ring mount, plenum and exhaust system.Also
have the series 7 flaperons,full gull glass doors, cargo pod, and IVO Magnum
cockpit adjustable prop. The avionics are the Apollo SL40 (Garmin), King
KT76A TXP, and lift reserve indicator. I am asking $38,00.00 for the aircraft.
Call me off line at 805-748-8354 for more information, or you can contact
me online at rocslo@sbcglobal.net. Robert Oliver, San luis Obispo, Ca.
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